W. H. Seward's Travels around the World. Edited by O. R. Seward, etc

Front matter

WILLIAM H. SEWARD'S TRAVELS AROUND THE WORLD. EDITED BY OLIVE RISLEY SE WARD. " A mighty maze, bat not without a plan." Pope. WITH TWO 3 V 'S D B E D ILLUSTRATIONS. NEW YOKE: D. APPLETON AND COMPANY, 549 & 551 BROADWAY. 1873. Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1873, by William H. Seward, Jr., Executor, and Olive Rislet Sewaud, Executrix, of the last Will and Testament of William H. Seward, deceased, in the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. CONTENTS.

Part I. United States, Canada, And Pacific Ocean

Chap. I. Auburn to San Francisco: Mr. Seward's Companions. — His Farewell to his Neighbors. — Western New York. — Niagara. — Canada and its Destiny. — Influence of Immigration. — Afrieo- Americans. — Detroit. — Chicago. — President Grant. — Mississippi and Missouri Rivers. — Cedar Rapids. — Omaha. — New Classification of States. — Council Bluffs. — Bridges over Navigable Rivers. — Settlement of Western States. — Cheyenne. — The Rocky Mountains. — Influence of Mountain States. — Sherman. — Separation. — Mountain Nomenclature. — Weber Canon. — Salt Lake City. — The Mormons, their Doctrines, Secular Priesthood. — Brigham Young's Sermon. — His Family. — Polygamy. — The Irrepressible Conflict in Utah. — The Shoshones. — Destiny of the Indians. — Sierra Nevada. — Reno. — Railroads. — Result of Abolition of Slavery. — Sacramento. — Arrival at San Francisco. — Civilization of California. — Chinese Immigration, .... 3 II.

From San Francisco to Japan : The Vessels of the Pacific Mail Line. — Our Fellow-Passengers. — " The Great Company of the Preachers." — The Chinese Pas. sengers. — The Great Event of the Voyage. — The Moods of the Sea. — A Still Greater Event. — The Loss of a Day. — The Gyascutus. — The Beginning of the End. — The Coast of Japan. — The Ocean-Fisheries 29

Part II. Japan, China, And Cochin China

I. Yokohama and its Vicinity : The Bay of Yokohama. — Natives and Foreigners. — Native Costumes. — Japanese Barbers. — The Tokaido. — Japanese Cemeteries, Gardens, and Temples. — Monks and Monasteries. — Kamakura. — The Great Statue of Buddha.— The Daibutz, -.37 II. Visit to Yeddo. — Interview with the Mikado: Interview with the Japanese Prime-Minister. — Tremendous Storm. — Some Points of History. — The Mikado and the Tycoon. — Japanese Foreign Office. — Minister Sawa. — The Question of Saghalien. — The Tombs of the Tycoons. — A Speck of War. — The Delmonico of Yeddo. — Sketches of Yeddo.'— The Interview with the Mikado, . . 49 III. From Yeddo to Shanghai : Hiogo. — The Place of Massacre. — A Japanese Steamer. —The Gulf of Osaka.— A Harem on a Picnic— The City of Osaka.— The Tycoon's Castle. — Japanese Troops. — Nagasaki. — Beautiful Scenery. — Christians of Nagasaki. — Japanese Character. — Departure for China. — Concluding Reflections on Japan,- CONTENTS.

IV Chap. IV. The Coast of China: Woosung. — TJ. S. Ship Colorado. — Shanghai. — European "Concessions." — A Mandarin Procession. — Chi-Tajen and Sun-Tajen. — European and Chinese Civilization. — Foreign Prejudices against the Chinese. — The Shan Tung. — The Yellow Sea.— The News from France.— Chee-Foo, the Newport of China. — A Rough Voyage, • . - 94 V. TJp the Pei-ho River : Mouth of the Pei-ho. — Chinese Forts. — American Guns. — The Most Crooked and Mean of Rivers. — Chinese. Dogs. — A Misunderstanding. —Captain Wang.— Our Flotilla.— The City of Tien-Tsin.— Aspect of the Country. — Our Boat-Life. — Absence of Animals. — A Messenger from Peking. — A Chinese Trader.— Tung-Chow, 109 VI. Arrival at Peking : Passing through Tung-Chow. — Good Behavior of the People. — The Road to PekiDg. — A Dangerous Highway. — Daniel Webster and John Adams. — A Review of Our Party. — A Grotesque Procession. — The Eastern Gate of Peking. — The Separation of the Party. — Anxiety for Mr. Seward. — In Woful Plight. — An Explanation. — Arrival at the U. S. Legation, ... . 124 VII.

Residence in Peking: Aspect of Peking. — The Walk on the Wall. — The Foreign Population of Peking. — Two American Chinese. — Native Wares. — The Foreign Ministers. — The Russian Minister. — The British Legation. — Influence of the United States. — The Hall of Science. — Mr. Seward's Audience with the Imperial Cabinet. — A Ladies' Day. — Chinese Ladies. — A Chinese Mansion, . 131 VIII. Residence in Peking (Continued): The Decay of China. — The Temple of Heaven. — The Temple of Agriculture. — The Temple of Buddha. — The Chinese Bonzes. — The Temple of Confucius. — The Religion of China. — A Pleasant Reunion. — The Birds of Peking. — An Official Dilemma. — Interview with Wau-Siang. — Influence of Burlingame, . . . . ... . . 153 IX. Visit to the Great Wall : Preparations for the Trip. — Our Vehicles. — The Summer Palace. — Pagodas. — First Night under a Chinese Roof. — A Chinese Tavern. — Approach to the Great Wall. — The Mongolians. — The Cost of the Wall. — Inquisitive Chinese. — The Second Wall. — The Ming Tombs. — A Misguided Mule, .172 X. Last Days in Peking : Cham-Ping-Chow. — A Chinese Inn. — The Roman Catholics in China. — The Cathedral. — The Tien-Tsin Massacre. — Christian Policy. — Interview with Robert Hart. — A Letter from Sun-Tajen and Chi-Tajen. — Letter from Prince Kung. — Interview with the Prince. — The Prince's Present. — Departure from Peking, 194 XI.

The Return to Shanghai : Once more on the Pei-ho. — The Ladies at Tien-Tsin. — The Shan Tung. — Pigeon English. — Tempestuous Weather. WVisit to the Flag-ship Colorado. — Departure of Mr. and Mrs. Randall. — On board the Plymouth Rock, 205 XII. Up the Yang-tse-Kiang : The Mississippi of China. — Ching-Kiang. — Large Freights. — Nanking. — The Porcelain Tower. — A Specimen Brick. — Abundance of Game. — Scenery on the River. — Ku-Kiang. — Conversation with Mr. Drew. — Policy of the United States. — Han-Kow. — Ascent of the Promontory. — Magnificent View. — Cheerful Aspect of Han-Kow. — Excursion to Woo-Chang. — A Disagreeable Adventure, 210 XIII. Return to Shanghai : Departure from Han-Kow. — Chinese Military Art. — A Marvellous Echo. — The Imperial Canal. — Approach to Chin-Kiang. — The United States Steamer.

Alaska. — Running down a Junk. — An Apology from . the Viceroy. — The Comprador. — Chinese Ladies. — Embark on an 'English Steamer, ...... . . . CONTENTS. V CUAP. XIV. From Shanghai to Hong-Kong : Bad Weather. — Cold Weather. — Variety of Seamen. — The Ship's Accommodations — Hong-Kong. — Beautiful Scenery. — Old Acquaintances renewed. — Native and Foreign Population, . . . 230 XV. From Hong-Kong to Canton : The Chinese Coasting-Trade. — Chinese Smugglers. — Canton River-Banks. — Aspect of Canton. — The British Concession. — The American Hongs. — The Consul and the Tou-tai. — The Diet of the Cantonese.. — Manufactures of Canton. — The Temples of Canton, . . . 233 XVI. Canton (Continued): A Chinese Villa. — The Hall of Ancestors. — A Chinese School-Room. — Another Villa. — An Opium-Den. — Extent ot Opium-Smoking. — The Chinese Chronometer. — The Street of Malefactors, — The Place of Execution. — A City of the Dead. — Canton at Night, .... 244 XVII.

At Hong-Kong again : Chinese Emigration to the United States. — The Canton Fisheries. — American Houses in China. — A Combination of Gamblers. — A Dinner at the United States Consulate. — Mr. Seward's Speech. — Oriental and Eastern Civilization. — Policy of China. —Prospects of China, . . 253 XVIII. A Glance at Cochin China : The Steamer Provence. — Island of Hainan. — Our Fellow-Passengers. — The Mouth of the Saigon River. — The City of Saigon. — French Aptitude for Colonization. — French Photographs. — The Queen of Cambodia, 262

Part III. The Eastern Archipelago, Straits Of Malacca, And Ceylon

I. The China Sea, Singapore, and the Straits of Sunda : Our Distance from Home. — Calm Seas and Temperate Breezes. — Singapore. — A Dispatch from Boston. — The People of Singapore. — Their Habitations. — Life in the Tropics. —A Dutch Steamer. — Our Crew. — A Question of Races. — Rather Hot. — Banca and Sumatra. — The Straits of Sunda, 271 II. The Capital of Java: The City of Batavia. — The Hotel des Indes. — A New- England Sabbath. — Malay Servants. — The King's Plain. — Population of Java. — The Queen of the East. — Departure for Buitenzorg. — Manner of Travelling. — The Vice-Regal Residence. — The Climate of Java. — The Baths of Buitenzorg, 280 III. Excursion into the Interior : A Balking Horse. — Cultivation of Rice. — Tropical Flowers. — Surabaya. — The Regent Prawiro. — Dutch Colonization. — How Java is governed.— Bandong. — The Regent and the Interpreter. — A Gouty Monarch. — The Regent's Income. — How he spends it, 293 TV.

Mr. Seward at Bandong : Excursion to the Cascade. — A Perilous Road. — The Water-Fall. — An Evening at the Palace. — The Bayaderes. — Two Dwarfs. — A Chorus of Peasants. — The Little Princesses. — An Excursion to Tankoeban. — Peruvian Bark. — The Top of the Volcano. — An Enchanting Scene. — The Japanese Prince, ......... 302 V. At Batavia again. — The Malays: Farewell to Bandong. — A Tropical Breakfast. — A Breakfast in the Botanical Gardens. — A Princely Native Artist. — Dutch Colonization. — Character of the Malay Race. — Chinese Immigration, 310 VI. From Batavia to Madras : An Uncomfortable Steamer. — An Accident. — At Singapore. — British Hospitality. — The Port of Penang. — A Loyal Englishman. — Bay of Bengal. — Half- Way Round the World. — Arrival at Ceylon. — Point de Galle.— A Short Visit to the Shore.— A Hindoo Crew.— Off Pondichcrry, CONTENTS. VI

Part IV. Brutish India

Chap. I. Madras : Madras from the Sea. — Governor Napier. — The Government House. — A Hindoo Girls' School. — Bishop Heber. — British Dominion in India. — Rear- Admiral Cockburn. — Machinery of Government. — A Meeting of the Executive Council. — Lord Cornwallis. — The Legislative Council. — Hindoo Music, . 327 II. Madras ( Continued) : An Excursion to Arcot. — Railroads in Hindostan. — Appearance of the Country. — The Homage of Flowers. — Cauverypak. — The Native System of Cultivation. — Visit to a Bramin. — Schools. — A Car of Juggernaut. — The Dutch Reformed Mission. — Back to Madras. — The Portuguese Settlement. — Gindy Park. — A Diamond Merchant. — Lord and Lady Napier. — The Normal School, 338 III. From Madras to Calcutta : The Surf at Madras. — On the Bay of Bengal. — The Lion-Whelps. — The Hoogly. — The Viceroy's Invitation. — Earl and Countess Mayo. — Glimpses of Calcutta. — The Baboo. — The Baboo's House and.

Harem. — The Government House, ....... 350 IV. Calcutta (Continued): The Maharajah of Putteeala. — Oriental . Magnificence. — Kali Ghaut. — The Temple. — Hindoo Idols. — Kali. — .Siva. — A Mohammedan Mosque. — The Reading of the Budget. — Indian Finances. — The King of Oude. —The Prince of Oude, 360 V. Barrackpore and Serampore : Barrackpore Park and its Beauties. — Magnificent Trees. — The Menagerie. — The Lion-Whelps. — Serampore. — Its Missionaries and Mission-Schools. — Return from Barrackpore. — Fort William. — The Woman's Union Missionary Society and its Schools, .... 368 VI. From Calcutta to Benares : Courtesy of the East India Railway Company. — Unattractive Scenery. — The Scenery improves. — Aspect of the Country and the People. — A Stop at Patna. — A Tiger Hunter. — The Cultivation of the Poppy. — The Maharajah of Benares. — A Night on the Ganges. — A Brilliant Display.— Glory Hallelujah. — A Compliment to Mr. Seward, . . 372 VII.

Benares > The Sacred City of the Hindoos. — The Cradle of Buddhism. — Sarnath. — Remarkable Towers. — The Holy River. — The Ghauts. — Singular Architecture. — The Mosques and their Minarets. — A Picturesque Scene on Ihe River-Bank. — Siva and Doorga. — Manufacture of Idols. — Magnificence of Benares, . 378 VIII. Allahabad, Lucknow, and Agra : Allahabad, the City of God. — Cawnpore. — Lucknow, the Capital of Oude. — Extent of the Country. — Arrival at Agra. — A Marvellous Monument of Arms, Arts, and Empire. — Akbar the Great. — His Vast Architectural Works. — The Pearl Mosque — Futtehpore Sikra. — Its Great Wall.— The Tomb of Sheik Selim Chishti.— The Paneh Mahal.— Akbar's Tomb. — His Wealth. — His Horses and his Elephants. — Weighing his Presents, 385 IX. Secundra and the Taj-Mahal : The Tomb of Akbar. — Derivation of the Name of Secundra. — The Taj-Mahal, the Tomb of the Banoo Begum. — Description of the Taj. — The Tomb of King Cotton. — The Inferiority of Indian Cotton. — Mode of packing it, ......... 396 X Delhi, the Mogul Capital : A Vivid Contrast to Agra. — Ludlow Castle. — Brief Sketch of Hindoo History. — The Persians. — The Greeks. — The Arabs. — Sultan Mahmoud. — The Mongols or Moguls. — Foundation of Delhi. — Successive Changes of Site. — The Kootub Minar. — A Singular Iron Shaft. — The Mogul Tombs. — The Tomb of Jchanara. — The Jumna Masjid. — The Imperial Palace. — Farewell to Delhi, ..........

CONTENTS. VII Chap. XI. Umballa and Putteeala: Meerut, the Scene of the Outbreak of the Great Mutiny. — Hindoo Pilgrims. — First View of the Himalayas. — Invitations to Putteeala. — Journey thither. — The City of Putteeala. — Coaches or Elephants ? — Entrance into Putteeala. — A Magnificent Procession. — Our Palace, . 414 XII. Putteeala ( Conlin ued) : Oriental Displays and Diversions. — The Menagerie. — The Prisons. — The Heir-Apparent. — An Elephant-Fight. — Jesters and Jugglers. — The Royal Palace. — Magnificence of the Maharajah. — The Durbar. — The Young Prince. — Superb Presents. — A Magnificent Salon. — The Maharajah's Conversation with Mr. Seward. — An Exhibition of Fireworks, . 420 XIII. A Glance at the Himalayas : Departure from Putteeala. — Along the Banks of the Jumna. — Protection from the Sun. — Reception at Pindarrie. — An Illumination. — Kalka and Kussowlee. — The British Commissioner. — A View of the Himalayas. — An Irish Home, 431 XIV.

Allahabad and Jubbulpoor : An Interesting Debate. — Earl Mayo, the Viceroy of India. — His Murder. — The Vindhya Mountains. — Industrial Activity of Jubbulpoor. — An Elephant-Ride. — A Night Voyage on the Nerbudda. — Romantic and Beautiful Scenery. — Hindoo Tenderness for Animals, . . . 437 XV. Bombay : The Ghaut Mountains. — A Cosmopolitan City. — The Natives of Bombay. — A Mixed Population. — Chinese, Siamese, Javanese, Cingalese, Sikh, Afghan, and Cashmerian. — The Races of the South and the North, of the East and the West. — Parsee Customs — Parsee Religion. — Hindoo, Mohammedan, and Parsee Disposal of the Dead. — Admiral Cockburn.— The Great Heat. — An Excursion to Elephanta, 442 XVI. An Excursion to Goa: A- Voyage on the Coast of Malabar. — A Perilous Predicament. — Dubious Navigation. — Situation of Goa. — Official Courtesies. — History of Goa. — The Old City. — St. Francis Xavier. — Miraculous Cures. — Character of Xavier. — Public Institutions. — The Governor's Villa. — Historical Reminiscences. — A Goa Poet. — A Cprdial Farewell, .... 451 XVII.

Last Days in Bombay : The Byculla Club. — Mr. Seward's Speech. — His Grateful Acknowledgments to his Entertainers. — The Indies of the East and the Indies of the West. — Growing Civilization of the East. — A Progress irresistible. — The New Concord. — Policy of the Anglo-Saxon Race. — Miss Wessner. — Departure from Bombay, ........ 460 XVIII. From Bombay to Aden : Once more at Sea. — The Steamer Deccan. — Mr. Seward's Remarks on India — Natural Religion. — The Characteristics of the Hindoo Mind — England's Hold on India. — The Regeneration of India. — The Island of Socotra. — Arrival at Aden. — An Extinct Volcano. — Wise Old England ! — A New Stage of the Voyage. — Red-Haired Negroes, .... 465

Part V. Egypt And Palestine

L The Red Sea and Suez Canal : The Gate of Tears.— The Rock of Perim.— The Port of Mecca. — Imaginary Terrors — Pleasant Weather. — The Coasts of the Red Sea. — The Division of the Races.— A Refreshing Atmosphere. — The Track of the Israelites.— Suez. — The Ancient Canal. — The New Canal. — Its Inauguration. — Its Prospects, ........ CONTENTS. Chap. II. From Suez to Cairo : The Bedouin Arabs.— A Wady.—Goshen.— Nubian Troops. —A Splendid Sunset.— The Palace of Repose.— The Khedive.— The Population of Egypt. — The Khedive's Improvements. — A Visit to the Harem. — The Female Slaves.— Egypt and Utah, 488 III. Cairo and the Pyramids : The Road to the Pyramids.— The Style of the Viceroy. — Interior of the Great Pyramid. — The Sphinx. — Mariette Bey. — Use of the Pyramids. — Rapacious Arabs. — The Phœnix. — The Site of On. — Ruins of Heliopolis. — The Tree of the Holy Family. — Mohammed Tauphik. — The Americans in Egypt. — The Citadel of Cairo.; — A Museum of Antiquities. — Modern Cairo.— The Copts.— The Nilometer.— The Tombs of the Caliphs.— The Cemeteries of Cairo — The Mosques. — The Dancing Dervishes. — Ghezireh. — Polygamy.— The Cairo of To-day, 498 IV.

Up the Nile : Embarkation at Ghizeh. — The Pyramids of Saccara. — The Two Deserts. — Siout. — The American Vice-Consul. — Sultan Pacha. — Character of the Nile. — Slave-Boats. — Arab Villagers. — The Birds of the Nile. — The Population on the Banks. — Domestic Animals. — Personal Arrangements. — A Tippling Monkey, 517 V. From Abydos to Thebes : The Ruins of Abydos. — The Sheik of Bellianeh. — A Misunderstanding. — A Dinner in the Ruins. — A Night in the Temple.— Exploring the Ruins. — By whom were they built? — Germs of Religious Ideas. — The Temple of Dendera. — Mr. Seward's Birthday, 52C VI. Thebes and its Ruins : What Thebes is now. — A Grand Reception. — A Federal Salute. — The Scenery of the Nile. — The Temple of Luxor. — The Houses of the Consuls. — History of Luxor. — Karnak. — The Hall of the Gods. — King Shishak. — Sphinx Avenues. — We dine with the Vice-Consul. — The Colossi. — The Ancient Tombs. — The Tombs of the Kings. — Animal Worship. — The Rameseum. — Grandeur of Thebes, 534 VII.

Esneh, Edfou, Assouan, and Philæ : The Coptic Convents. — Youssef and his Donkey. — Our Steamer aground. — The Ruins of Esneh. — The Temple of Edfou. — Assouan. — Its Surprising Activity. — Its African Population. — The Ancient Quarries. — Philæ and the Cataracts of the Nile. — A Monument of the First French Republic, 552 VIII. Last Days in Egypt: The Vice-Consul's Harem. — Kenneh and its Pottery. — The Sugar of Egypt. — Memphis. — Its Ruins. — The Downfall of Idolaters. — Again at Cairo. — Conversation with a Pacha. — Alexandria. — Aspect of the City. — Interview with the Khedive. — Sir Henry Bulwer. — Pompey's Pillar. — The Khedive's Yacht. — Concluding Reflections on Egypt, . ... 563 IX. Jerusalem : A Levantine Coasting-Steamer. — The Green Fields of Sharon. — Jaffa. — Ramleh. — Lydda. — Rural Population. — First View of Jerusalem. — Mr. Seward's Reception. — The Sultan's Firman. — Church of the Holy Sepulchre. — Religious Intolerance — Mount Calvary. — The Via Dolorosa. — The Mosque of Omar.— The Mosque El-Aksa, 578 X. Jerusalem and its Neighborhood : Bethlehem. — The Grave of Rachel. — The City of Jerusalem. — The Mount of Olives. — The Tomb of Zachariah. — -The Tomb of Absalom. — An American Jew. — Bethany. — Pilate's Palace. — The Greek Church in Palestine. — The Jews of Jerusalem. — Their Wailing-Place. — The Jewish Sabbath. — Attendance at the Synagogue. — Bishop Gobat. — Departure from Jerusalem. — Jaffa and Beirut, CONTENTS.

IX Chap. XI. From Palestine to Greece : Impressions of Palestine. — The Egyptian Race. — Egyptian Civilization. — Phœnicia and Palestine. — The Four Religions. — What we owe to the Jews. — Present State of Palestine. — The Island of Cyprus. — The Cesnola Collection. — Smyrna. — An Excursion to Ephesus. — The Seven Sleepers. — Mr. Wood's Researches. — The Temple of Diana. — The Isles of Greece. — Tinos. — The City of Syra. — An Illumination, . . . 607

Part VI. Europe

I. Athens and Constantinople: Athens. — The Piræus. — The Hymettus. — The Hyssus. — Mr. Tuckerman. — Queen Olga. — Grecian Ruins compared with those of Egypt and Hindostan. — Modern Greece, the Mexico of Europe. — The Sea of Marmora. — -Taking Constantinople by Surprise. — A Contre-temps. — All's Well that Ends Well. — The Sultan Abdul-Aziz. — A Busy Day. — Excursions. — Charms of Constantinople. — The Old Seraglio. — Fourth of July. — Robert College. — The Bosporus. — Turkish AVomen. — The New Palace. — Untimely Visit. — Kiamil Pacha. — Audience with the Sultan. — Departure from Constantinople 627 II. Hungary and Austria : On the Danube. — Varna. — Rustchuk. — Wallachia. — German Travellers. — What shall we say of Turkey ? — Reflections on the Future of the Turks. — Orsova. — The Iron Gate. — Hungarian Loyalty. — Buda-Pesth. — Contrast of European and Asiatic Civilization. — The People of Pesth. — The Bridge of Buda. — The Buildings of Buda. — The History of Hungary. — The Danube. — Vienna. — John Jay. — Count Von Beust. — Politics of Austria, 654 III.

Italy : Venice. — American Knights Templars. — Florence. — Attractiveness of the City. — Rome. — The Coliseum. — Cardinal Antonelli and the Pope. — Interview with the Pope. — The Italian Minister of Foreign Affairs. — The Schools of Art. — Naples. — Vesuvius. — Early Civilization on the Mediterranean Coast. — Naples, the Newport of the Roman Empire. — Genoa. — Susa. — Prospects of Italy, ... 669 IV. Switzerland and Franch : Geneva. — The Alps. — The Tunnel of Mont Cenis. — Passports. — American Fondness for Switzerland. — Berne.— Swiss Statesmen and Politics. — Distress of France. — The Franco-German War. — Lord Lyons. — Mr. Washburne. — Versailles. — The French Assembly. — President . Thiers. — A Dinner with President Thiers. — Condition of France. — M. Drouyn de Lhuys. — M. Laboulaye. — Dr. Evans and the Empress Eugenie. — Aspect of Paris. — Prospects of France, . . . . . . . 685 V. Germany, England, and Home: Belgium.^ — Berlin. — Mr. Bancroft. — Humboldt. — The German Empire. — Its Rise and Grandeur. — Its Policy. — Hamburg. — A Free City.— A Handsome City. — On the Thames. — .Activity of its Commerce. — Greatness of London. — Government Machinery in Great Britain. — Its Slow Working. — Rural Beauty of England. — On Board the Java. — Her Passengers. — Montrose-on-Hudson. — Return to Auburn. — Mr. Seward's Speech to his Neighbors, . . . . ■ • • • Index, . . . . ... . ... .

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. PAGE Portrait of Mr. Seward (on steel) Frontispiece Mr. Seward's Garden at Auburn 1 Mr. Seward's Home 4 New Suspension Bridge, Niagara Falls. 5 Cheyenne 10 Summit 11 Wahsatch Range 12 Leutze's " Course of Empire." 13 Devil's Gate, Weber Canon 13 Pulpit Rock 14 Thousand-Mile Tree 15 Salt Lake Valley 16 Mormon Tabernacle 17 Brigliam Young's Residence 19 The Remnant of a Tribe 23 Mouth of Big Cottonwood Canon 24 San Francisco 26 Cliff House, San Francisco 27 Golden Gate 28 Meeting of the Steamers in Mid-ocean. 31 Fusi Yama, Coast of Japan 34 Yokohama, Japan 38 Japanese Barbers 39 Japanese Girls 40 Japanese Cemetery 41 A Japanese Garden 43 Tea-house on the Tokaido 44 Group on the Tokaido 45 Temple at Kamakura 46 Daibutz 47 Japanese Bonzes 48 American Legation at Yeddo 52 PAGE Japanese Officer of State 55 Japanese Interpreter, in Court Dress.. 57 Interior of Sheba 59 Tombs of the Tycoons 60 Nippon-Bas, Yeddo 61 British Legation, Yeddo 61 Hamagoten 63 Japanese Musician 64 A Book-store at Yeddo 66 Daimios' Quarter, Yeddo 69 United States Consulate, Hiogo 76 Temple at Osaka 78 Street in Osaka 80 Entrance to Nagasaki 83 Nagasaki Harbor 84 Temple of Buddha at Nagasaki 85 View of Decima 86 Woosung 94 Mandarin Procession 96 Custom-House, Shanghai 98 Mouth of the Yang-tse-kiang 103 Promontory of Shan-Tung 104 Chinese Fishing-smack 105 Chinese Dogs 1 n Boats on the Pei-ho River 114 Chinese Agriculture 119 Western Gate, Peking 132 Lupis-lazuli Cat. . . > 135 Ancient Observatory, or Hall of Science 139 Prince Kung 142 Yang-Fang 147 Wife of Yang-Fang.

(From a Photograph by himself.) LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

XI PAGE Long Nails 149 Yang-Fang's Smoking-room 151 Chinese Gate-way 152 Temple of Heaven 155 Tablet Hall 157 The Temple of Confucius 161 Gate of the Temple of Confucius, Peking 162 Image of Confucius 163 Chinese Cart 173 The Litter 174 Summer Palace. . . 176 Bridge on the Grounds of the Summer Palace 177 Nan-Kow Pass 180 The Great Wall 182 Gate at Nan-Kow 183 Gate-way at Ming Tombs 189 Avenue to the Ming Tombs 192 Bridge at Nanking, and Porcelain Tower before its Destruction 211 The Upper Yang-tse-kiang 212 Little Orphan Island 213 Chinese Theatricals 220 Silver Island, on the Yang-tse-kiang. . . 225 Scene on the Imperial Canal 229 Hong-Kong 231 Trading-Junk 232 Street in Canton 236 Entrance to the Temple of Honan. . . . 240 Poon-ting-gua's Villa 245 Opium-Smokers 247 Chinese Tombs 252* View in Hong-Kong 253 Saigon, at the Mouth 263 Native of Saigon 265 Artisan's House at Saigon 267 Queen of Cambodia 268 Singapore 279 Street in Batavia 281 Married Woman of Java 282 A Javanese Girl 284 Sce*ne in Java 286 Government House, Java 287 Lily Pond, Palace Grounds, Java 288 Tropical Foliage, Java 290 Javanese Fruit 291 Scene in Java , 292 The Regent Prawiro da Kedya 296 The Regent of Bandong, with his Officers 300 PAGE A Hostelry in Java.. 301 Dancing-Costume 304 Dancing-Girl 305 Bath at Sindanlaya • 311 Javanese 314 Government House, Madras 328 Madras 337 The Surf at Madras 349 Residence of Richard McAlister, Calcutta 353 The Maharajah of Putteeala, Grand Commander of the Star of India. . 361 Palace of the King of Oude 366 Barrackpore 371 Maharajah of Benares 375 Nautch Girls 377 Benares, from the Ganges 378 Great Buddhist Tower at Sarnath 379 Carving on Buddhist Tower at Sarnath. 380 Ghauts at Benares 382 Temples at Benares 384 Queen's College, Benares 384 Residency at Lucknow 386 Exterior of the Fort 388 Inlaid Screen, Tomb of Mina Begum, Agra 389 Scene on the Road to Futtehpore Sikra. 390 Saracenic Gate 391 Pillar in Ak bar's Council-Chamber. . . . 393 Panch Mahal 393 Carved Pillars in the Ruins of Futtehpore Sikra 894 Akbar's Tomb at Secundra 395 Taj-Mahal 398 Cotton-Merchants, Agra 402 The Taj, from the Fountain 403 The Kootub Minar 407 Elephants on the March at Putteeala. . 418 A Conjurer at Putteeala 423 Elephants with Howdahs 425 The Prince of Putteeala 427 The Himalayas 436 The Nerbudda 441 Parsee Children 445 Entrance to the Caves of Elcphanta. . . 449 Aden 471 Ismailia 484 View on the Nile 489 A Girl of Cairo 497 The Pyramids of Gizeh 499 The Sphinx LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS, PAGE A Street in Cairo 507 Street in Cairo 509 Mosque and Houses in Cairo 510 Interior of a Mosque, Cairo 512 Cairo, from the East 516 A Woman on the Nile 524 Temple of Dendera 530 Thebes 534 Obelisks at Karnak 536 Columns at Karnak 539 Gate at Karnak 540 Capitals of Columns' at Esneh 551 Youssef and his Donkey 553 Philæ 56ft Pompey's Pillar 572 Jaffa 579 Our Caravan 580 Dome of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre 586 Mosque of Omar 591 Bethlehem 595 Mosque on the Mount of

Olives 598 PAGE Jews' Wailing-Place 601 Tower of David, Jerusalem 606 Ancient Syra and Modern Hermopolis. 621 A Greek Official 622 A Group of Heads from the Cesnola Collection ' 623 Athens 627 A Greek Woman 628 Bridge at Eleusis 629 The Temple of Victory, Athens 631 Albanian Costume 635 Ancient Pillar at Constantinople 639 Fountain of the Seraglio 640 Turkish Woman in Street Dress 643 Turkish Girl in a Harem 645 Count von Beust 666 Cardinal Antonelli 674 Genoa 683 Drouyn de Lhuys 702 Hamburg 712 A Map showing Mr. Seward's Route through Asia, Africa, and Europe. .

Part I. United States, Canada, And Pacific Ocean

CHAPTEE I. AUBURN TO SAN FRANCISCO. Mr. Seward's Companions. — His Farewell to his Neighbors. — Western New York. — Niagara. — Canada and its Destiny. — Influence of Immigration. — Africo- Americans. — Detroit. — Chicago. — President Grant. — Mississippi and Missouri Rivers. — Cedar Rapids. — Omaha. — New Classification of States. — Council Bluffs. — Bridges over Navigable Rivers. — Settlement of Western States. — Cheyenne. — The Rocky Mountains. — Influence of Mountain States. — Sherman. — Separation. — Mountain Nomenclature. — Weber Canon. — Salt Lake City. — The Mormons, their Doctrines, Secular Priesthood. — Brigham Young's Sermon. — His Family. — Polygamy. — The Irrepressible Conflict in Utah. — The Shoshones. - Destiny of the Indians. — Sierra Nevada. — Reno. — Railroads Result of Abolition „f Slavery. — Sacramento. — Arrival at San Francisco. — Civilization of California. — Chinese Immigration.