How I crossed Africa: from the Atlantic to the Indian Ocean ... Translated from the author's manuscript by A. Elwes ... Containing ... maps and ... illustrations

Front matter

L^BtW c^v ________! __H^_____________li ____rAt_^___P^____^________-*^_____________l^______________i ___^___________B_H i f l____rJB Kwi HB^________K _______! HhIe_i9^_______I 'fro* phi ATLANTIC to the INDIAN OCEAN* rvmoucH UNKNOWN COUNTRIES • •DISCOVER^"6 GREAT ZAMBESI AFFLUENTS JyAJ0f\5EJATA Plf-lTO HOW I CROSSED AFRICA: FROM THE ATLANTIC TO THE INDIAN OCEAN, THROUGH UNKNOWN COUNTRIES ; DISCOVERY OF THE GREAT ZAMBESI AFFLUENTS, &c. By MAJOR SERPA PINTO. TRANSLATED FROM THE AUTHOR'S MANUSCRIPT Bt ALFEED ELWES. IN TWO VOLUMES. CONTAINING 15 MAPS AND FACSIMILES, AND 132 ILLUSTRATIONS. Vol. I.— THE KING'S RIFLE. LONDON: SAMPSON LOW, MAESTON, SEARLE, & EIVINGTON, CROWN BUILDINGS, 188 FLEET STREET. 1881. [All rights reserved.] LONDON: PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, Limited, STAJIFOIUJ STEEET AND CHAEINQ CEOSS.

TO HIS MAJESTY THE KINO, D. LUIZ I., BY GRACIOUS PERMISSION THIS BOOK IS DEDICATED BY THE AUTHOR. a V SIRE, It was no feeling of servile adulation which induced me to pray Tour Majesty's permission to dedicate to you this Book ; it was rather the recog nition of a double debt of justice and gratitude, — of justice to the intelligent and enlightened monarch who signed the decree which created resources for the first Portuguese scientific expedition of the present century to Central Africa, — of gratitude to the prince whose endowments, both of heart and mind, are on a par with his lofty qualities, and render him one of the first constitutional rulers of contemporary Europe. Your Majesty gave me the opportunity of connect ing the obscure name of a Portuguese soldier with one of the happiest and most auspicious attempts essayed in modern times by Portugal.

And this work belongs therefore to Your Majesty, as a legitimate title of my profound gratitude. I con sequently venture respectfully to entreat Your Majesty VI to be good enough to accept the humble offering in the same benevolent spirit wherewith you deigned to spur me on to an enterprise of which, at its close, Your Majesty's favours were still held to be the sincerest and most treasured recompense. Your aide-de-camp And most devoted of Your subjects, Alexandre de Serpa Pinto. London, 61 Gower Street, bth December, 1880. TO HIS EXCELLENCY, COUNSELLOR JOAO DANDRADE CORVO. Most Illustrious and Excellent Sir, In submitting my name, in 1877, to the Central Permanent Commission of Geography with a view to my forming part of the Portuguese expedition to the interior of Africa, Your Excellency assumed the responsibility of my nomination.

Prologue

. I. — HOW I BECAME AN EXPLORER. In the course of the year 1869 I formed part of the column which, in the Lower Zambesi, sustained many a sanguinary conflict with the natives of Massangano. Senhor Jose Maria Latino Coelho, the then Minister of Marine, gave orders to the Governor of Mozambique, to furnish me, at the close of the war, with the means of mounting the Zambesi, so that I might make a detailed survey of as much of the country as it was possible for me to investigate. The orders were given, but were never carried out ; and after repeated applications and a hasty run through the Portuguese possessions of Eastern Africa, I returned to Europe, with a greater desire than ever to study the interior of that continent of which I had obtained only a superficial glance. Private reasons of a family nature stepped in to defer and, even for a time, to destroy my projects. — An officer in the army, always in garrison in small provincial towns, I was accustomed to convert my VOL. I. B hours of idleness into hours of labour ; and though^ it appeared to me that the possibility of visiting Africa was remote, the study of African questions became my sole and exclusive pastime.

Nor did I neglect the sublime subject of Astronomy, so that the abundant leisure which my barrack life allowed me was equally divided between Africa and a study of the heavenly bodies. In 1875 I was in the 12th Chasseurs, and had in my comrade, Captain Daniel Simoes Soares, one of the most intelligent men it has ever been my fate to know. We had not been acquainted long ere we became fast friends. The wretched little room of this illustrious officer in the barracks of the Island of Madeira gave us mutual shelter during the hours that the regulations compelled us to reside there ; and how often, when one of us was on guard, did he not have the other for companion ! Africa, and still Africa, was our subject of conversation. It is a pleasure to recall that time, those hours which fled so rapidly, discussing questions which I was far from thinking I should be one day called upon to solve.

Towards the close of 1875 I drew up a paper which I submitted to the judgment of Simoes Soares and of another of my comrades, Captain Camacho, and which owed its origin to our interminable talks about Africa. In it I laid down a plan for a partial survey of the interior of our colonies in East Africa, which might be effected with the greatest economy to the State. After the question had been discussed and rediscussed among us, the paper was forwarded to His Majesty's Government : but I learned subsequently that it never reached the hands of the Minister of Marine. At that time I was again revolving in my mind a return to Africa, notwithstanding my ties as a family man and the great personal interests which attached me to Portugal.

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. About the end of 1876 I returned to Lisbon, where I learned that African matters had assumed considerable importance in that city owing to the creation of the Central Permanent Geographical Commission and the establishment of the Geographical Society of Lisbon. There was especially much talk about a great geo graphical expedition to the interior of Southern Africa. I at once set about seeing the Minister of the Colonies, Snr. Joao d' Andrade Corvo. If it be no easy matter to explore Africa, it is scarcely less difficult to get an interview with a minister, more especially if that minister be like Snr. Joao d' Andrade Corvo. His Excellency held two portfolios, Marine and Foreign Affairs, and it may be conceived that he had no time to bestow upon intruders. I hunted him up for eight days in succession, and on the very eve of my departure from Lisbon I obtained an audience at the Ministry for Foreign Affairs.

His Excellency received me somewhat stiffly, observing that he had but little time to dispose of ; he then inquired what I wanted of him. This question led to the following dialogue :— " I have heard it stated that Y. E. is thinking of sending a geographical expedition into Africa; and that is the object of my calling." The minister immediately changed his tone, and very courteously desired me to be seated. " Have you been in Africa ?" he asked. " I have ; I know something of the mode of travelling in the country, and have devoted much attention to the study of African questions." " Do you feel inclined to make a long journey into South Central Africa ? " I must declare that I hesitated a moment before replying ; but at length I said — " I am ready to go." b " That is well," he observed. Then he continued : " I have thoughts of sending out a great expedition to Africa, well provided with all necessaries, and when the organisation of the staff is under consideration I will not forget your name."

" By-tke-by," he said, when I was on the point of leaving, " what terms do you ask for such a service ? " " None," I replied. And so we parted. From the Ministry for Foreign Affairs I went to No. 3 Calcada da Gloria, to call upon Dr. Bernardino Antonio Gomes, Vice-President of the Central Per manent Geographical Commission. We had a long conference together, and that distinguished scholar, who was then entirely devoted to geographical subjects, told me that he had already cast his eye upon a distinguished officer of our royal navy, Hermenigildo Capello, to form a part of the expedition. On the following day I started for the north. The journey and the fresh air of the country somewhat chilled the feverish enthusiasm which had taken possession of me in Lisbon, and, after mature reflection, I resolved to give up exploring Africa.

My wife and daughter were difficult ties to rend asunder, and whenever the idea of tearing myself from the tender caresses of my child crossed my mind, the ardour of exploration gradually died within me. My family on the one hand and Africa on the other pulled my heart-strings in opposite directions, and kept me a long time in a state of perplexity. I at length hit upon a scheme which I thought might solve the question. Were I, for instance, appointed to the governorship of a district, I might make a portion of Africa my study without separating myself from my family. I was then serving in the 4th Chasseurs, and on my journey to Algarve I spent a few days in Lisbon. An exploring expedition was no longer talked

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. 5 of, and but one enthusiast, Luciano Cordeiro, still held to the belief that it would be brought about ; although in the Geographical Society, of which I was the Secretary, a loud cry had been raised in its favour. Dr. Bernardino Antonio Gomes, bowed down by the weight of years, had yielded to the pressure of his incessant labours, and already felt the first symptoms of that disease which, a little later on, deprived him of his valuable life, and snatched from Portugal, and the world at large, one of the most illustrious Portuguese of the nineteenth century. I was not at that time acquainted with the ardent and brilliant youth for whom I feel to-day so warm a friendship — I mean Luciano Cordeiro. All those with whom I conversed of exploration told me it must be looked upon as adjourned sine die.

Although the state in which I found matters at Lisbon caused me poignant regret, seeing that the light which had at one moment burned to give so harmonious an impulse to Portuguese exploration in Africa appeared to be flickering — on the other hand, I could not but feel a certain pleasure at finding myself, by this course of events, freed from an engagement which would have separated me from beings I held so dear. The idea of going out as a governor and of estab lishing myself in Africa, — in that continent where I so ardently desired to labour and yet not separate myself from my family — became stronger every day, and I at length waited upon the minister to broach the subject. This time I was received at once, and very cordially too. I expressed my surprise at hearing no more about explorations.

" And that has brought you here ? " was the inquiry. " Not exactly. I have come to entreat of Y. E. the governorship of Quillimane, which is now vacant." Snr. Corvo smiled. " I have a mission of far higher moment to entrust to you," he said ; " I want you for a very different matter than to govern an African district ; so that I cannot give you the governorship of Quillimane." " Y. E., then, is still thinking of an African exploration ? " I replied. " Frankly, I believed that the whole thing was at an end." " I give you my word of honour," said the minister, " that either I shall cease to be Joao d' Andrade Corvo, or next spring an expedition, organised in a way hitherto unknown in Europe, shall leave Lisbon for South Central Africa." " And you count upon me ? " " I do most certainly — and you will very shortly hear from me."

I left the ministerial presence in a state of bewilder ment. On arriving at the Hotel Central, I sat down and wrote the following note : — " I have not the honour of your acquaintance, but I wish to speak with you, and beg that you will favour me with an interview." This I addressed to '' Hermenigildo Carlos de Biito Capello — Officer on board the plated frigate Vasco da Gama." The very next day I received the following reply : — " You will find me to-day, at 3, at the Cafe' Martinho. — Capello." As the clock struck three I entered the Cafe' Martinho, to find the jilace completely empty. No, not completely, for at one of the tables sat a young man in the uniform of a first lieutenant in the navy, whose face was com pletely unknown to me. This, however, I thought, must be my man. He was leisurely sipping a glass of grog, his cap lying by his side. He was of medium stature, so far as I could judge,

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. 7 he being seated ; had a swarthy conqJexion, and a singularly placid eye. The thinness ol' his hair, from which the colour had begun to fade, and a small mous tache already tinged with grey, gave him, at a first glance, an appearance of age, which was belied by his look and the unwrinkled aspect ofhis skin. " Snr. Capello, I presume ? " " That is my name ; and you, I suppose, are Snr. Serpa Pinto ? I was expecting you, and feel pretty sure that you wish to have some talk about Africa?" " Exactly so. You have then decided to take part in the expedition ? " " I have ; in fact, I have already had some conversation on the matter with Dr. Bernardino Antonio Gomes." " It was he who mentioned to me your name. What engagement have you made ? " "None. To tell the truth, I do not well know what the Government want ; I have spoken twice about the matter to Dr. Gomes, but have not yet seen the minister ; when I do I wish to tell him that if I go to Africa I should like to have as a companion my friend and comrade Roberto Ivens.

Do you know him ? " " I do not. I have spoken to the minister upon the subject, and he has told me that he counts upon me for the expedition." " In that case, as you are under engagement to the minister, I shall cry off." "But why so ? ... I would rather do so myself." "Apart from this, I do not think the matter will ever be brought to bear." " Nor do I entirely ; but admitting that it is carried out, why should we not both go ? We are new ac quaintances, it is true ; but more intimate relations will follow, and, as I believe, may end in close friendship." " I myself see no reason to the contrary. If the expedition goes forward then, we will start together, and get my friend Roberto Ivens to join us." " By all means. But do you seriously think the Government will vote so large a subsidy as will be necessary for such an undertaking as is contemplated ?

" " I do not know ; I doubt it ; and just now the expedition is far less talked about than it was." Our conversation lasted long, and when we separated it was with the firm conviction that the venture would never be realised. I met Capello several times during the succeeding days, and when we finally parted it was to pursue our respective duties ; he to join his ship the Vasco da Gama, ordered to England, and I to take the command in the Algarve of my company, the 4th Chasseurs. With the leisure afforded me by my garrison life, I once more resumed my studies, and was fortunate enough to find at my new station a good friend in the person of Marrecas Ferreira, a distinguished engineer officer who was ever ready to assist me in difficult mathematical problems, of which he was a master. It was through him that I was enabled to enter into a regular correspondence with Luciano Cordeiro, who afterwards became one of my firmest friends.

It was during this time that I drew up two small papers, wherein I discussed the mode of organising an exploring expedition into South Central Africa, and, thanks to Luciauo Cordeiro, they found their way into the hands of the Minister of Marine. Still months passed away, and no more was heard of the promised expedition. I received two letters from Capello, wherein he expressed his complete want of faith in the realisation of the undertaking. It is true that in the Permanent Geographical Commission various projects of expeditious

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. 9 were discussed, but they led to no action, and the matter appeared to be dying out. One morning I read in the newspapers that the minister Snr. Joao d'Andrade Corvo had brought before Parliament a Bill for a credit of 30 contos (some £6600) for an expedition to Africa ; but shortly after, before the Bill had passed, the ministry was defeated, and the Portfolio of the Colonies fell to Snr. Jose de Mello Gouvea. The projected exploration, however, again became a subject of public interest ; but the newspapers men tioned as explorers men who were totally unknown to me, and only occasionally mentioned the name of Capello. I was then residing at Faro, and although I had not given up my astronomical and African studies, which I pursued with the assistance of Joao Botto, an eminent professor of the school of Pilots of Faro, I had ceased to cherish my former ideas of travel.

My time was divided between home pleasures and my books of study, and I found myself too happy in the comforts of the domestic hearth to think of exchanging the even tenor of my life for the shocks and chances of a journey through savage climes. Nevertheless, in my quiet retreat, I followed with interest the reports published in the journals of the news from Lisbon. I there read that the new minister, Jose de Mello Gouvea, had again brought before Parliament the Bill that had been introduced by his predecessor, Joao d'Andrade Corvo, and had succeeded in obtaining a vote for the sum of 30 contos, to be expended in an exploring expedition. The death of Bernardino Antonio Gomes, a victim to the deep interest he took in the study of African questions, at an age when the fatigues of many previous years should have counselled him complete rest of mind, occurred about this time, and produced a great void in the Central Geographical Commission ; so great indeed that although there were many of its members who, deeply interested in the subject, raised their voice in that learned body, their discussions led to no practical result. 1 In spite of the parliamentary vote, I could not satisfy myself that there was any possibility of seeing the expedition carried into effect in 1877 ; and bearing in mind what I had read in the public prints, I deemed, at least, that I was myself forgotten — a circumstance which, to tell the truth, was rather agreeable to me than otherwise.

The Algarve is a delicious country ; a perfectly eastern atmosphere pervades the place, and seeing the elegant tops of the palm-trees gracefully bending over the terraced houses, one felt inclined at times to forget that one was still bound to the prosaic shores of Europe. My position there was that of military commandant, by which will be understood that my life was not a particularly hard one. The intercourse of a select society, family affections, my books of study and scientific instruments, enabled me to spend very happy hours — of that placid happi ness which it is not the fate of many to enjoy. My easy-chair, my dressing-gown and slippers, were fast becoming my very ideal of felicity. April had come to an end, and with the beginning of May set in the heat, which was very powerfully felt in Faro.

I began to form projects for the summer, when one day I received a telegram requiring me to report myself immediately to the general in command of the division. On proceeding thither I found an order to repair without loss of time to the presence of the Minister of the Colonies. Adieu to home, adieu to dressing-gowns, adieu to

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. 11 slippers ! Adieu to the tranquil and placid life I had been spending amidst my dear ones ! I must return to the busy world once more ! Four days later on, seated around a large table, in a great hall at the Ministry of Marine, were a dozen grave personages, some with spectacles and some without, some old and others new, but all well known in the scientific or literary world, or for their public services, who had met together to discuss the often mooted question of Africa. This solemn session was presided over by the minister Jose de Mello Gouvea. The secretaries were, Dr. Jose Julio Rodrigues and Luciano Cordeiro, and I remember that among those present were Count de Ficalho, Marquis de Souza, Dr. Bocage, Carlos Testa, Jorge Figaniere, Francisco Costa, Counsellor Silva, and Antonio Teixeira de Vasconcellos.

At the bottom of the table, and at one of the corners, ensconced in a large fauteuil, was a man with a head well covered with hair, and a heavy grey moustache, who, through his tortoise-shell-rimmed glasses, kept his eyes steadily fixed upon me. It was the late minister, Joao d'Andrade Corvo, whose look said as plainly as words could do, " I told you that this matter would be brought to bear." Capello sat next to me, and after a debate of some two hours we left the hall together, with precise instructions for our journey. We selected as third associate Lieutenant Roberto Ivens, Capello's friend above alluded to, who was unknown to me, and who was at that time at Loanda, serving on board one of His Majesty's vessels. It was on the 25th of May that the meeting was held, and we undertook to start on the 5th of July.

It was a risky thing to promise, as we had to fit out the expedition in France and England, and we only had a month to do it in. We received powerful assistance, however, at the hands of Francisco Costa, Director General at the Ministry, who used his influence to sweep away all the obstacles which the red-tapeism of the offices might conjure up, and in fact matters were so managed that on the 28th of May Capello and myself were enabled to leave for Paris and London, in order to make the necessary purchases. To this end, we were armed with a credit of eight contos, or about £1760 sterling. II. — Preparations for the Expedition. On our arrival in Paris, we called upon M. d'Abbadie, the great Abyssinian explorer, and also upon M. Ferdinand de Lesseps, from both of whom we obtained advice and received the politest attention.

Unluckily we could not find in the market any of the instruments, arms, or travelling* appointments such as we desired, so that it became necessary to order the whole of them. Backed by a special recommendation from M. d'Ab badie, we applied to various instrument-makers, and during some ten or twelve days Lorieux, Baudin, and Radiguet were hard at work for us. Walker under took to supply all the travelling requisites ; Lepage (Faure), the arms ; Tissier, the boots and shoes ; and Ducet jeune, the body clothing. Our Paris orders being thus well in hand, we started for London, where we purchased our chronometers, of the firm of Dent, and sundry instruments of Casella ; a good store of sulphate of quinine was also laid in, and many india-rubber articles were procured from Mack intosh, among others being two boats and some folding baths. We sought in vain in London, just as we had sought

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. with like ill-success in Paris, for a theodolite possessing the necessary conditions for a journey such as that we were about to undertake. Some, that were excellent for terrestrial observations, were wanting in those requisites which astronomical observations demanded ; others again, that were perfectly satisfactory in both respects, were either too heavy or too bulky for our purpose. There was no time to have a special one made for us, so that on our return to Paris we were glad to accept one that had been previously offered us by M. d'Abbadie. We collected together, in Paris, the various articles we had ordered and that had been made during our short absence from that city ; and on the 1st of July, Capello and myself arrived at Lisbon completely prepared for our journey, and consequently ready to fulfil our engagement to leave for Loanda by the packet of the 5th.

Our preparations had been made in the space of nineteen days. When I was studying the means of preparing myself for a long journey in Africa, I procured various books of travels, in the vain hope of gleaning from their pages the modes of preparation adopted by other travellers. All the narratives were, however, singularly wanting in information of this kind, and remembering the degree of annoyance which the omission caused me, I resolved that if I should ever travel in Africa and write an account of my adventures, I would supply the deficiency, and, whilst enumerating the articles I took with me, I would put on record which among them proved of real service, and which might be considered as mere lumber. The story of African exploration is in its early infancy. Many explorers will succeed me in Africa, as I succeeded others, and I believe that I shall be doing a service to those who venture after me on to the inhospitable continent, by furnishing them with a list of the things with which I provided myself, and they will glean from the course of my narrative the advantages or inconveniences I found from their employment.

According to the instructions I received from the Government, I was at liberty to expend three years upon my journey, and it was upon this understanding that I made my preparations. Experience had taught me the serious inconvenience of overloading myself with baggage, and I therefore frankly declare that when I surveyed in Lisbon the enormous pile of things purchased in Paris and London, I was perfectly horrified. There were no fewer than seventeen trunks ! all of the same dimensions, Om., 3 x Om., 3 x Om. 6. One contained a toilet service complete, with a large mirror, basin and ewer, soap and brush dishes, etc. ; another held a dinner and tea service for three persons, and a third the necessary kitchen utensils. Three other trunks of extra strength were destined each to contain the following : four bottles of quinine, a small medicine-chest, a sextant, an artificial horizon, a chronometer, various tables of logarithms, some ephemerides, an aneroid, a hypsometer, a thermometer, a prismatic compass, a plain compass, a book of blank paper, pencils, loose paper and ink ; fifty cartridges for each firearm, a complete suit of clothes, and three changes of linen, tinder, flint and steel, and other small articles for personal use.

Each of these trunks had a tray in the upper part containing a writing-case and place for paper. They were considered as personal luggage, and belonged each to one of our party. The remaining ten trunks were packed indiscrimi nately with articles of clothing, instruments, and other

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. 15 matters in reserve. The locks of all of them were the same, and one key opened the whole. Our tent was of the kind known as a tente marquise, 9 ft. 4 in. wide by 6 ft. 3 in. in height. The bedsteads were of iron, strong and convenient ; the tables were folding, the stools and chairs of canvas. All these articles were manufactured by Walker. Each of us was armed with a magnificent rifle of sixteen-bore, the barrels of which — the work of Leopold Bernard — had been carefully mounted by Faure' Lepage. A fowling piece of the same calibre, manufactured by Devisme, a Winchester eight-shooter, a revolver and a wood-knife, completed our armament. I had ordered at Lisbon, of the Confeitaria Ultramarina, twenty-four cases, of the same dimensions as the trunks, to be packed (in tins, carefully soldered) with tea, coffee, sugar, dried vegetables, and farinaceous substances ; and I must here express my warmest thanks to Snr.

Oliveira, the proprietor of that establishment, for the scrupulous care he bestowed on the selection of the articles supplied, and of which we made great use at the outset of our journey. The instruments we carried with us were the follow ing : three sextants, one made by Casella of London, one by Secretan, and the third by Lorieux, a perfect beauty ; two Pistor's circles, manufactured by Lorieux, with two glass horizons and the respective levels ; one Secretan 's mercury horizon ; three astronomical tele scopes of great power, two by Bardou and one by Casella ; three small aneroids, two of Secretan's and one of Casella's ; four pedometers, two of Secretan's and two of Casella's ; six algebraic compasses ; one Bournier's compass, furnished by Secretan ; three others, azimuths, two from Berlin and one supplied by Casella ; two of Duchemin's circular needles ; six Baudin's hypsometers, one of Casella's, three of Celsius of Berlin, two others of Baudin's highly sensi tive ; twelve thermometers, supplied by Baudin, Celsius, and Casella ; one Marioti-Casella's barometer ; one Casella's anemometer ; two Bardou's binoculars ; one dipping needle ; and an apparatus of magnetic force, most kindly lent us by Captain Evans through the instrumentality of M. d'Abbadie.