Berwick-upon-Tweed. The history of the town and guild. Illustrated by photo-engravings, etc

Front matter

BERWICK-UPON-TWEED. J. HERRI0TT, Photographer,"] [.BERWICK. THE MAYOR'S CHAIN. BERWICK-UPON -TWEED. Z%t %\ztwi of t%t £oS3n <m*> (Buifo. EY JOHN SCOTT. ILLUSTRATED BY PHOTO-ENGRAVINGS, PREPARED BY JAMES HERRIOTT, PHOTOGRAPHER, BERWICK. LONDON : ELLIOT STOCK, 62, PATERNOSTER ROW, E.C. 1888. P r efa c e. IN the volume now presented to my readers I have detailed the general history of the town from the earliest records to the present time ; then the history of its Guild. I have sketched the history of its Streets, its Charters, its Churches, its Grammar School, its Bridges, its Fisheries, etc. In the Appendix will be found Lists of its Ancient Burgesses, its Members of Parliament, its Mayors and Town Clerks, as well as several documents — the most valuable of which are the Statutes of the Guild and the Orders of the Old and New Establishments.

The books that have been consulted are too numerous to name. Access has been had to nearly all the Record Commission publications, to the calendars of the ' State Papers ' of the various reigns, to the general histories of England and Scotland, to the old chronicles, to the books of private clubs, as the Camden Society, etc. The most extensive collection of papers gathered by the late Robert Weddell, solicitor, and all the papers and books in manuscript in the Berwick Archives, have been carefully read. Great assistance has been rendered throughout the work by Mr. James Hardy, Oldcambus, the secretary of the Berwickshire Naturalists' Club, not only in reading and revising the MS., but in transcribing and Preface. VI forwarding anything that he found in his wide researches that bore upon the history of Berwick.

Robert Douglas, Esq., Town Clerk, with the consent of the authorities of the town, most readily placed at my service the papers and books under his charge. Mr. William Wilson, Berwick, has put me under great obligations in making extracts of many interesting passages concerning the town, and in lending many books bearing upon the subject. I have also to acknowledge the kind assistance of the following : Colonel David Milne Home, of Paxton House ; Mr. Edward Willoby, solicitor, Berwick ; and Mr. J. W. Barnes, Durham. My thanks are specially due to the above as well as to the many Berwick friends who have helped me in various ways in completing the work. I can never state my full obligation to Mr. Robert Weddell, solicitor, the nephew of the gentleman who was so indefatigable in amassing information bearing upon the history of Berwick, for the readiness and courtesy with which he placed all his uncle's papers at my disposal.

Chapter I

833—1286. PACE THE FIRST MENTION OF BERWICK— ITS" RAPID RISE AFTER THE TWEED BECOMES THE BOUNDARY BETWEEN ENGLAND AND SCOTLAND — THE FIRST AUTHENTIC MENTION OF THE TOWN — A ROYAL BURGH — THE FIRST AUTHENTIC MENTION OF THE CASTLE — THE BORDERS DISTURBED —THE TOWN BURNT— THE SECOND AUTHENTIC MENTION OF THE CASTLE, II74— THE FIRST KNOWN GOVERNOR OF BERWICK — A SHIPPING PORT — CAPTURED BY JOHN AND BURNED — THE HIGHWAY BETWEEN ENGLAND AND SCOTLAND BY THE BERWICK BORDER — A ROYAL MARRIAGE IN THE TOWN — INCREASE OF BERWICK IN COMMERCIAL IMPORTANCE — MUNIFI- CENCE OF ITS BURGESSES — AT THE HEIGHT OF ITS PROSPERITY IN THE REIGN OF ALEX- ANDER III.— THE FLUCTUATION IN THE PRICE OF FOOD, AND ITS SAD CONSEQUENCES— SIGNS OF CIVILIZATION AFTERWARDS OBLITERATED - - - - - - I — 17

Chapter II

1286— 1307. GLOOMY CHAPTER— MARRIAGE NEGOTIATIONS OF THE MAID OF NORWAY AND THEIR SORROWFUL TERMINATION — CLAIMANTS TO THE THRONE OF SCOTLAND — DECISION GIVEN IN BERWICK CASTLE — THE VALUE OF MONEY AT THIS TIME — BERWICK, THE STOREHOUSE WHENCE THE SCOTCH CASTLES WERE VICTUALLED — BALIOL IN COLLISION WITH EDWARD — TREATY BETWEEN SCOTCH AND FRENCH SIGNED, FIRST AMONG OTHERS, BY BERWICK — THE SCOTS INVADE ENGLAND — EDWARD RETALIATES UPON BERWICK — EXASPERATED BY TAUNTS, HE MERCILESSLY SLAUGHTERS ITS INHABITANTS— THE TOWN NEVER RECOVERED EDWARD'S HAMMERING— FORTIFIED ANEW BY HIM— EXCHEQUER FORMED IN IT— PREPARATIONS FOR WALLACE — THE TOWN EVACUATED AFTER STIRLING BRIDGE — NEXT YEAR RE-ENTERED BY THE ENGLISH — THE CASTLE NOW IMPREGNABLE — AN INVENTORY OF WHAT IT CONTAINED — STILL THE GREAT STOREHOUSE FOR THE SCOTCH CASTLES — TROUBLES WITH THE GARRISON — RENTS OF BERWICK AND NEIGHBOURHOOD— THE NAMING OF ENGINES OF WAR— DEATH OF WALLACE— HIS LEFT ARM EXPOSED HERE— IMPRISONMENT OF THE COUNTESS OF BUCHAN IN THE CASTLE— DEATH OF EDWARD ..... 18— ■37

Chapter III

1307— 1327- BRUCE RELIEVED BY DEATH OF EDWARD I.— THE PREPARATIONS AND FRUITLESS EXPEDITION'S OF, EDWARD II. — ATTEMPT OF BRUCE TO TAKE THE CASTLE OF BERWICK— EDWARD Contents. X PACK MARCHES TO THE RELIEF OF STIRLING CASTLE— THE PASSING OF HIS ARMY THROUGH BERWICK— FLIGHT FROM BANNOCKBURN— HIS CARE OVER BERWICK— THE SCOTS ATTACK BERWICK UNSUCCESSFULLY— RAIDING UPON THE BORDERS— BERWICK, THE CENTRE OF INTEREST TO BOTH NATIONS— THE SCOTS ENTER BY TREACHERY AND GAIN POSSESSION OF THE TOWN — BRUCE STRENGTHENS THE FORTIFICATIONS — EDWARD II. ATTEMPTS UNSUCCESSFULLY TO REGAIN BERWICK— TRUCE MADE BETWEEN ENGLAND AND SCOTLAND, AND CONSERVATORS APPOINTED TO KEEP THE PEACE ON THE BORDERS— GOVERNORS OF THE TOWN AND CASTLE— ITS TRADE— NEW TREATY BETWEEN ENGLAND AND SCOTLAND —ROYAL MARRIAGE CELEBRATED AT BERWICK WITH GREAT MAGNIFICENCE— DEATH OF ROBERT THE BRUCE ..... ---• 3S — 50

Chapter IV

1327— 1337. CONDITION OF BERWICK WHEN EDWARD III. BECAME KING OF ENGLAND— THE BATTLE OF DUPPLIN— EDWARD PROCEEDS AGAINST BERWICK AND BESIEGES THE TOWN CLOSELY— TERMS OF CAPITULATION OFFERED AND ACCEPTED WHEN SCOTCH ARMY APPEARED TO RELIEVE THE TOWN— BATTLE OF HALIDON HILL— EDWARD RECORDS HIS THANKS FOR THE VICTORY — EFFECT OF THE VICTORY UPON BERWICK— OFFICERS OF THE TOWN AP- POINTED BY EDWARD AND FAVOURS DISTRIBUTED— SCOTCH MONKS REMOVED FROM THE TOWN— EDWARD OFFERS INDUCEMENTS TO ENGLISH MERCHANTS TO COME AND TRADE IN THE TOWN — ALL THE LANDS SOUTH OF THE FORTH AND CLYDE GIVEN BY BALIOL TO EDWARD— NEW OFFICERS APPOINTED— MANY STORES LAID UP IN BERWICK— THE TOWN SEARCHED FOR SUSPECTED PERSONS — ITS OFFICIALS CHANGED— A PEACEFUL TIME ON THE BORDERS— THE WOOL TRADE - - - - - - - 51— 64

Chapter V

1337—1377- BERWICK KEPT ACTIVE BY WAR BETWEEN ENGLAND AND SCOTLAND— THE STOREHOUSE OF PROVISIONS— ITS GARRISON— ITS IRREGULAR PAYMENT— EDWARD III. UNABLE TO SUBDUE THE SCOTS— JOUSTING AT BERWICK— ITS WALLS REPAIRED — BATTLE OF NEVILLE'S CROSS — BORDERS DISTURBED— MAYOR OF BERWICK IN DANGER— RAIDS— BERWICK CAPTURED BY THE SCOTS UNDER ANGUS — EDWARD III. HASTENS FROM FRANCE TO REGAIN THE TOWN ; THE SCOTS EVACUATE IT ON HIS APPROACH — HE RENEWS THE FORTIFICATIONS — DAVID BRUCE OBTAINS HIS FREEDOM — TREATY CONCERNING IT — EDWARD III. GRANTS SPECIAL PRIVILEGES TO THE BURGESSES ON ACCOUNT OF THE POVERTY OF THE TOWN — MANY DEPUTY-GOVERNORS— ROUT OF PERCY BY THE SCOTS AT DUNS— RICHARD II. SUCCEEDS TO THE THRONE ........ 65— 74

Chapter VI

1377— 1521. RICHARD II. GRANTS SPECIAL PRIVILEGES TO THE BURGESSES OF BERWICK — RAIDING UPON THE BORDERS— THE CASTLE TAKEN BY DESPERADOES— RETAKEN BY NORTHUMBERLAND —TRUCE ON THE BORDERS— BERWICK RELEASED FROM A TAX LEVIED UPON THE WHOLE KINGDOM— THE TOWN BURNT BY THE SCOTS— LETTER OF JAMES DOUGLAS, LORD OF DALKEITH, TO RICHARD II. — THE CASTLE OBTAINED BY THE SCOTS BY BRIBERY NORTHUMBERLAND .BUYS IT BACK.— THE FORTIFICATIONS REPAIRED— INCIDENT BETWEEN REDMAN AND LINDSAY— HENRY IV. SUCCEEDS TO THE THRONE— THE PAVING OF THE STREETS REPAIRED— GOVERNORS OF THE TOWN— INTERFERENCE WITH ITS TRADE COM- MISSION APPOINTED TO INQUIRE INTO THE STATE OF THE FORTIFICATIONS— FICKLENESS OF NORTHUMBERLAND AND HOTSPUR— THEY TAKE REFUGE IN BERWICK— HENRY IV. PROCEEDS AGAINST THEM AND RECAPTURES THE TOWN— BURNED BY THE SCOTS WHILE Contents.

XI PAC« 113 IN POSSESSION OF NORTHUMBERLAND— THE LATTER SLAIN AT BRAMHAM MOOR— THE ANGEVIN KINGS KIND TO THEIR OLD SOLDIERS — JOHN OF BEDFORD, WARDEN OF THE MARCHES AND GOVERNOR OF BERWICK, MAKES SORE COMPLAINT TO THE KING, HIS FATHER, ABOUT THE STATE OF THE FORTIFICATIONS — PRIVILEGES GRANTED TO THE BUR GESSES BY THE KING— TOURNAMENT HELD IN THE TOWN— EXCHANGE OF MURDOCH, SON OF ALBANY, WITH YOUNG HOTSPUR TAKES PLACE AT THE CALF HILL, BERWICK ALBANY THREATENS ROXBURGH AND BERWICK— RAID BY UMFRAVILLE INTO SCOTLAND — NORTHUMBERLAND FORTIFIES BERWICK— MURDOCH, THE SCOTCH REGENT, ATTACKS THE TOWN— THE YOUNG KING JAMES I. OF SCOTLAND RANSOMED — LITTLE KNOWN CONCERN ING THE STATE OF THE TOWN IN THE FIFTEENTH CENTURY— JAMES I. OF SCOTLAND DEMANDS REPARATION FROM HENRY VI. FOR THE DESTRUCTION CAUSED BY THE RAIDS OF THE ENGLISH — A TRUCE AT LENGTH AGREED UPON IN I438, WHICH HELD FOR A NUMBER OF YEARS— THE CUSTOMS OF BERWICK NO LONGER SUFFICIENT TO PAY THE SALARY OF THE GOVERNOR— THE SYSTEM OF LIGHTING THE BEACONS INSTITUTED BY THE SCOTCH PARLIAMENT— BERWICK THREATENED BY JAMES II.

IN I455— JAMES II. MAKES RAIDS INTO ENGLAND TO ASSIST THE LANCASTRIANS — HENRY VI. AFTER HIS DEFEAT AT TOWTON FLEES TO SCOTLAND AND DELIVERS BERWICK TO THE SCOTS, IN WHOSE HANDS IT REMAINED FOR TWENTY-ONE YEARS— WE LEARN MUCH CONCERNING THE TOWN IN THESE YEARS FROM THE EXCHEQUER ROLLS— GOVERNORS OF THE TOWN —DISOBEDIENCE OF BERWICK BAILIES— THE ENGLISH UNDER NORTHUMBERLAND AND OTHERS RECAPTURE THE TOWN FROM JAMES III. IN 1 482— THE CASTLE EVENTUALLY SURRENDERS— THUS BOTH PASSED FOR EVER INTO ENGLISH POSSESSION— THE POVERTY OF THE TOWN— ATTEMPT TO BOLSTER UP ITS TRADE— THE BURGESSES MAINLY DEPENDENT UPON SUPPLYING THE GARRISON WITH PROVISIONS — INDENTURE BETWEEN EDWARD V. AND THE EARL OF NORTHUMBERLAND AS TO THE GOVERNORSHIP OF BERWICK — GRANT TO AN OFFICER IN REIGN OF EDWARD V. — ORIGIN OF IDEA OF BERWICK BEING SUPPOSED TO BE A TOWN INDEPENDENT OF BOTH COUNTRIES— VARIOUS OFFICERS OF THE TOWN PAYMENT OF THE GARRISON — PEACE NEGOTIATED BETWEEN THE TWO COUNTRIES BY A SPANIARD— MARRIAGE OF JAMES IV.

TO MARGARET OF ENGLAND — THE LETTERS OF REPRISAL — BERWICK OFFICIALS— TROUBLES WHICH LED TO THE BATTLE OF FLODDEN— BERWICK THREATENED BY THE SCOTS AND VICTUALLED BY HENRY VIII.— OFFICERS OF THE TOWN AND THEIR PAYMENTS— TROUBLES ON THE BORDERS - - - 75—

Chapter VII

I52I—I547- LETTER OF UGHTRED TO WOLSEY CONCERNING THE SAFE KEEPING OF THE TOWN— HENRY VIII., UNABLE TO BREAK UP THE LEAGUE BETWEEN SCOTLAND AND FRANCE, MAKES RAIDS UPON THE FORMER — UGHTRED DESCRIBES IMAGINARY DEALINGS IN THE DEFENCE OF BERWICK— LETTER OF BISHOP OF CARLISLE TO WOLSEY ANENT UGHTRED— PREPARATIONS FOR ALBANY— HIS RAID A FAILURE— THE GREAT VALUE THE ENGLISH AND [SCOTCH KINGS PUT UPON BERWICK— SURREY WRITES TO WOLSEY ANENT THE WEAK STATE OF BERWICK— SURREY MAKES RAID UPON JEDBURGH— ALBANY AGAIN APPROACHES BERWICK, BUT RETREATS WITHOUT ACCOMPLISHING ANYTHING— THE DISPOSAL OF THE PROVISION- ING OF THE TOWN — RAIDING ON THE BORDERS WHILE TRUCE WAS BEING ARRANGED — QUEEN MARGARET INTERFERES AND THE TRUCE IS SETTLED— BERWICK OFFICIALS- MAYORS OF BERWICK COME TO THE FRONT— THE RIGHTS OF BERWICK AS STAPLE OF THE SALMON TRADE— TRUCE OF 1 526 RENEWED IN 1 528 FOR THREE YEARS— GEORGE LAWSON, PAYMASTER, ABSORBS NEARLY ALL THE OFFICES IN THE TOWN— STATE OF THE FORTIFICATIONS— THE CAWE MILLS— RAID OF 1 532-33— LETTER OF SIR THOMAS CLIFFORD, CAPTAIN OF BERWICK, TO HENRY VIII.— DESCRIPTION OF THE TOWN IN ' FREIRS OF BERWICK '—MORE RAIDS— PROJECT OF HENRY VIII.

ON THE DEATH OF JAMES V. OF Contents. XII PAGE 132 150 SCOTLAND TO UNITE THE TWO KINGDOMS— ENRAGED AT HIS BEING DUPED BY THE FRENCH, HE ORDERS MERCILESS RAIDING UPON THE SCOTS— SUMMARY OF A YEAR'S RAIDING— SURVEY OF THE BORDERS BY BOWES AND ELLERKER — DESCRIPTION OF BER WICK AND THE FORDS OF THE TWEED— STATE OF THE BORDERS ON THE DEATH OF HENRY VIII. ..-------- 114 —

Chapter VIII. 1547— 1560

CONDITION OF THE FORTIFICATIONS ON THE DEATH OF HENRY VIII. — THE SCOTS STILL TROUBLE- SOME NOTWITHSTANDING THE HAMMERING THEY HAD RECEIVED FROM THE ENGLISH — THE BATTLE OF PINKIE — CRUELTY OF THE BERWICK BURGESSES— JOHN KNOX IN BERWICK — EXPECTED FRENCH ATTACK UPON THE TOWN— NEW FORT ERECTED BY NORTHUMBERLAND, WHILE WARDEN — ARTICLES ISSUED BY SIR NICHOLAS STRELLIE, CAPTAIN OF BERWICK, FOR THE BETTER GOVERNMENT OF THE TOWN — A GARRISON FOR THE NEW FORT — CONTINUED STRIFE UPON THE BORDERS — THE MAYOR OF BERWICK SLAIN IN A FRAY AT FORD CASTLE — LORD EURE, GOVERNOR OF TOWN AND CASTLE, COMPLAINS OF THE PAY OF THE HORSEMEN, AND OF THE SHORTCOMINGS OF THE OTHER OFFICERS — SKIRMISH AT HALIDON HILL (l 558) — HARDSHIPS ON ACCOUNT OF THE SUDDEN RISE AND FALL IN THE PRICE OF PROVISIONS — MORE RAIDING — DANGERS FELT BY ENGLISH STATESMEN ON ACCOUNT OF THE REFORMATION — THE DEFENCE OF BERWICK OF THE UTMOST IMPORTANCE IN CASE OF ATTACK BY THE CATHOLIC POWERS — TREATY OF CHATEAU CAMBRESIS — BERWICK FORTIFIED, GARRISONED, AND VICTUALLED WITH THE GREATEST POSSIBLE COMPLETENESS IN CASE THE FRENCH WERE SUCCESSFUL IN THE SIEGE OF LEITH — DESCRIPTION OF THE OLD FORTIFICATIONS WHICH WERE NOW ABANDONED BY ELIZABETH'S OFFICERS, AND COMMENCEMENT OF THE NEW — LETTER OF NORFOLK ON THE FORTIFYING OF BERWICK — DIFFICULTY OF SETTLING THE LINE OF THE WALLS ON THE SEAWARD PART — PEACE BETWEEN ENGLAND AND SCOTLAND — THE SOURNESS OF THE AIR AFFECTS THE HEALTH OF THE OFFICERS IN THE TOWN — STARVATION OF THE GARRISON — PECULATION OF THE OFFICIALS — CECIL AND KNOX LABOUR TO EFFECT UNION BETWEEN PROTESTANTS OF THE TWO KINGDOMS — THEIR EFFORTS RESULT IN THE TREATY OF BERWICK — FORTIFICATIONS OF BERWICK CONTINUE TO BE STRENGTH- ENED, AND THE GARRISON INCREASED — FURTHER PREPARATIONS FOR THE FRENCH ATTACK — ELIZABETH AT LENGTH HELPS THE SCOTCH PROTESTANT LORDS WITH MEN AND MONEY — THE TRANSFERENCE OF MONEY AT THIS TIME, AND ITS COST — DEATH OF THE QUEEN- MOTHER AND RECALL OF THE ENGLISH ARMY — REDUCTION OF THE STAFF IN BERWICK — PAYMENT OF THE GARRISON— THE GUARDING OF THE WALLS IN THE TRANSITION STAGE — DISORDERLINESS OF THE GARRISON 133 —

Chapter IX

1560— 1568. LORD GREY OF WILTON APPOINTED GOVERNOR OF BERWICK— ORDERS OF THE OLD AND NEW ESTABLISHMENT— PREACHERS SENT TO THE TOWN — MARVELLOUS EFFECT OF THEIR LABOURS— THE SALARY OF THE MAYOR— THE ESTABLISHMENT OF THE COUNCIL THE MARKET WITH THE SCOTS— NOT ALLOWED TO RESIDE NOR HOLD OFFICE IN THE TOWN —LORD GREY DID GOOD WORK ON THE BORDER-LAND— PREPARES FOR THE FRENCH WHO NEVER CAME— SPECIAL INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE WATCHING OF THE WALLS WHILE THEY ARE INCOMPLETE— DIFFICULTIES IN HURRYING ON THE WORK — COALS— DIS- TURBANCE AMONG THE WORKMEN— IRREGULAR PAYMENT— GREY RETIRES TO COURT WHIMSICAL IDEA OF DACRE, THE MARSHAL, AS TO THE MEANS OF RENDERING BERWICK IMPREGNABLE— VALENTINE BROWN, TREASURER, HAS GREAT DIFFICULTY IN SECURING THE PAY OF THE SOLDIERS AND WORKMEN— MISERY OF THE GARRISON AND OFFICERS —GREY RETURNS TO BERWICK IN 1561, AND LEAVES AFTER A YEAR'S STAY FOR CHESHUNT, Contents.

XIII PACE 166 188 WHERE HE DIED 25TH DECEMBER, 1 562— THE STATE OF THE FORTIFICATIONS ON GREY'S DEATH— BOTHWELL SEIZED IN HOLY ISLAND— SHIPWRECKS— ADVENTURE OF GILES CORN WALL, CAPTAIN— A SCOTCHMAN ALLOWED TO PREACH IN BERWICK— CONDUCT OF VALEN TINE BROWN, TREASURER— FRANCIS RUSSELL, EARL OF BEDFORD, APPOINTED GOVERNOR —PRECEPTS GIVEN HIM BY CECIL— NEW EFFORT PUT FORTH TO COMPLETE THE WALLS — DISPUTE ABOUT ENCLOSING THE SNOOK— WHENCE THE EARTH WAS GOT TO RIVET THE WALLS AND FORM THE BASTIONS — THE CASTLE AND BELL-TOWER ORDERED TO BE LEVELLED— THIS ORDER NEVER CARRIED OUT— DISPUTE ABOUT THE OWNERSHIP OF THE SNOOK — DISORDERS ON THE BORDERS— MANY NOTABLE PERSONS VISIT BERWICK — BIRTH AND NAMING OF JAMES VI. OF SCOTLAND— RECALL OF BEDFORD - - - 151 —

Chapter X

1568— 1603. HENRY, LORD HUNSDON, APPOINTED GOVERNOR OF THE TOWN — CORRESPONDENCE WITH CECIL — THE REGENT MURRAY HOLDS THE BORDERERS IN CHECK — VARIOUS TROUBLES EX- PERIENCED BY HUNSDON IN HIS OFFICE — THE NORTHERN BEBELLION — DEATH OF REGENT MURRAY — HUNSDON GAINS VICTORY OVER DACRE — RAIDING BY THE SCOTS— RETALIATION BY THE ENGLISH — ATTEMPTED ASSASSINATION OF DRURY, MARSHAL OF BERWICK — A SEVERE WINTER— THE EARL OF NORTHUMBERLAND A CAPTIVE— A STORMY AUTUMN- RAID OF THE REIDSWIRE — VALENTINE BROWN, TREASURER, STILL HAS DIFFICULTY IN SECURING THE PAYMENT OF THE GARRISON — REGULATIONS OF HIS OFFICE — APPOINTMENT OF NEW OFFICALS WITH THEIR REGULATIONS — SMUGGLING — BUILDING OF QUEEN ELIZABETH'S PIER — VISIT OF THE PLAGUE — SIR HARRIE WIDDRINGTON APPOINTED DEPUTY-GOVERNOR — HIS IRASCIBILITY — REPROOF FROM HUNSDON — A SUSPICIOUS 'PAMFLETT' — QUEEN ELIZABETH ANNOYED AT HUNSDON'S PROLONGED ABSENCE FROM BERWICK— NEW SURVEYOR APPOINTED— JAMES MELVILLE— THE SONS OF LORD HUNSDON, SIR JOHN AND SIR ROBERT CAREY— JAMES VI.

AND I. LOOKS UPON BERWICK— WITCHES — THE TREASURER IN DIFFICULTIES — DEPUTY-PAYMASTER — DEATH OF LORD HUNSDON — SIR JOHN CAREY, MARSHAL, HAS GREAT TROUBLE WITH BORDER THIEVES — BUCCLEUGH AND KINMONT WILLIE — PEREGRINE BERTIE, LORD WILLOUGHBY, APPOINTED GOVERNOR — HIS DEATH AND CHARACTER— ILLNESS AND DEATH OF QUEEN ELIZABETH— THE BERWICK BURGESSES CONGRATULATE JAMES OF SCOTLAND ON HIS NEWLY ACQUIRED DIGNITY — THE ABBOT OF HOLYROOD RECEIVES THEIR ALLEGIANCE— JAMES'S PASSAGE THROUGH BERWICK ON HIS WAY SOUTH ....----- 167—

Chapter XI

1603— 1685. GEORGE HOME, EARL OF DUNBAR — 'JEDDART JUSTICE'— REDUCTION OF BERWICK GARRISON- REMOVAL OF ORDNANCE— DEATH OF DUNBAR— PENSIONS GRANTED— FURTHER REDUCTION OF GARRISON — THE TOWN PASSES FROM MILITARY TO CIVIL GOVERNMENT — VISIT OF KING JAMES — A JUDGMENT UPON SABBATH-BREAKING — THE BERWICK POSTMASTER AND HIS WORK — THE EXPORT OF WOOL — PETITION AGAINST ITS THREATENED PROHIBITION — SIR WILLIAM BOWYER MALIGNED— TROUBLE CAUSED BY DUNKIRKERS AND SPANIARDS— IN- VENTORY OF ARMOUR IN THE TOWN — THE POST-OFFICE — VISIT OF CHARLES I. TO BER- WICK — SPITAL WRECKERS — DESCRIPTION OF THE TOWN BY BRERETON — UNSETTLED STATE OF BERWICK AND NEIGHBOURHOOD OWING TO TROUBLES IN SCOTLAND ANENT EPISCO- PACY—CHARLES I. AGAIN ON THE BORDER— COMES TO TERMS WITH LESLIE— REMAINS IN BERWICK FOR A MONTH — THE FORTIFICATIONS ONCE MORE PUT IN ORDER— LESLIE INVADES ENGLAND — ACT OF TRUCE — THE GUILD SET A WATCH FOR FEAR OF A SURPRISAL BY THE ROYALISTS— ATTEMPTS OF THE LATTER TO GAIN THE TOWN— IT CONTRIBUTES MONEY TO THE ROUNDHEADS— GARRISONED BY THE SCOTS— UNAUTHENTICATED REPORT Contents.

PAGE CONCERNING THE RAZING OF THE WALLS— THE CAVALIERS TAKE BERWICK— SOON EVACUATE— THE SCOTS ENTER — CROMWELL IN POSSESSION — THE INHABITANTS HARASSED BY THE FREE BILLETING OF THE SOLDIERS — COLONEL GEORGE FENWICK OF BRINKBURN APPOINTED GOVERNOR OF THE TOWN — THE TOWN FORTIFIED — SUPPLIES ARRIVE FOR CROMWELL'S ARMY— THE BATTLE OF DUNBAR — THE BORDERERS MORE HUMANE — THE ROUNDHEAD SOLDIERS ATTACK THE DUNGHILLS — THE WATER-SUPPLY OF THE TOWN — THE MACES AND TOWN SEALS — DEATH OF GOVERNOR FENWICK — PURCHASE OF THE MANOR OF TWEEDMOUTH AND SPITAL BY THE CORPORATION— CROMWELL PROCLAIMED PROTECTOR — TERRIBLE FIRE IN BERWICK— THE TOWN ACTS A. LA VICAR OF BRAY — ALL HAIL TO THE RESTORATION ! — REJOICINGS, BIRTHDAY OF CHARLES II. — VARIOUS ITEMS ............ 189 — 217

Chapter XII

1685— 1887. SURRENDER OF CHARTER BY THE TOWN— EFFORTS TO OBTAIN A NEW ONE FROM CHARLES II. AND JAMES II. — REVOLUTION MAYOR AND SPURIOUS COUNCIL ELECTED — THE CHARTER OF JAMES I. RESTORED TO THE TOWN AND ALL UPSTARTS REMOVED— REJOICINGS OVER THE ASCENT TO THE THRONE OF WILLIAM OF ORANGE AND MARY— THE BUILDING OF THE BARRACKS— ADDRESSES TO QUEEN ANNE AND GEORGE I. — THE REBELLION OF 1715 — DEMOLITION OF HOUSES IN CASTLEGATE— TAKING OF HOLY ISLAND CASTLE BY THE ERRINGTONS— QUARREL WITH GARRISON— BRIDGE BUILT OVER THE WHITEADDER — THE REBELLION OF 1 74 5— THE BUILDING OF THE PRESENT TOWN-HALL— NEW TRADES STARTED IN THE TOWN— TURNPIKE-ROAD MADE FROM BUCKTON BURN TO LAMBERTON HILL— TWO GREAT LAWSUITS OF THE GUILD— FEARS OF FRENCH INVASION— TWO COMPANIES OF VOLUNTEERS RAISED IN BERWICK— ITS LOYALTY— THE BUILDING OF THE PRESENT PIER— THE TRADE OF THE TOWN — EGGS AND CORN — NOTE CONCERNING THE MINT IN BERWICK 218—235 THE GUILD HISTORY OF BERWICK.

GOVERNMENT OF THE TOWN BY THE GUILD --.-... 236—250 PROCEEDINGS OF THE GUILD •---..... 2KQ— 260 LEGISLATION OF THE SALMON TRADE - ... 26l— 264 FINANCES AND ACCOUNTS OF THE BURGH ....... 264— 8 MEADOWS AND STINTS ------.... 28o— 2R6 ADMISSION TO THE FREEDOM - 0, - 286 — 280 MARTIN GARNET, SKETCH OF - " ■ - - 2QO — 2QC HENRY BREARLEY, SKETCH OF • 3 " - - - 205 — loo CONDITION OF THE STREETS .... J - *"|OI — 112 GRANTING OF THE CHARTER BY JAMES I. ---... 112— ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY ------. _33' TITHES ------_. *^4 CHARITIES ----... 375—37° GRAMMAR SCHOOL ---... "* BRIDGES ---... 39^ 4°7 tolls ..".;;; 408-420 FISHERIES IN THE TWEED <■•--.._ 421 TOPOGRAPHY ..... " 425- 432 CASTLE ; 433-438 JUBILEE OF l887 " 439~~ 442 443—444 Contents. XV APPENDICES. PAGE I. LIST OF BURGERS AND COMMUNITY WHO TOOK OATH OF FEALTY TO EDWARD I. IN I29I 445 II.

LIST OF BURGESSES AND OTHERS WHO TOOK OATH OF FEALTY TO EDWARD III. IN 1333 445-6 III. TAXES GRANTED FOR ONE YEAR TO REPAIR THE PAVEMENT OF BERWICK • - 446 — 447 - IV. THE AUNTIENT STATUTES OF THE TOWNE AND CASTLE OF BARWICK - - 447 — 456 V. SURVEY OF 1562 - - - - - - - - - - 456—461 VI. NEW ESTABLISHMENT ..-....-- 462—465 VII. STATUTÆ GILDÆ ,......--- 465—469 VIII. CHARTER GRANTED BY ROBERT DE BRUS TO MELROSE ABBEY - - - 47° IX. GRANT OF HENRY VIII. ...-.-- - - 470— 472 X. MEMBERS OF PARLIAMENT FOR THE BURGH ..---- 472—478 XI. LIST OF MAYORS OF THE BURGH ------ - 478— 481 XII. LIST OF TOWN CLERKS OF THE BURGH ------- 481— List of Illustrations. i. The Mayor's Chain - - - - - ' - Frontispiece. 2. The Scotsgate ........ To face sage 32 3. The Meg's Mount Bastion - - - - - - „ „ 64 4. The Bell Tower - - - - - - - - „ „ 112 5.

Plan of Berwick (1745), showing Old and New Fortifications - „ „ 142 6. Map of Berwick (Queen Elizabeth's Reign) - - - - „ ,,172 7. The Mace Sergeants and Halberts (1685) - - - - „ „ 214 8. The Town Wait - - - - - - - „ „ 225 9. The Town Hall - - - - - - - - „ „ 227 10. Coins of Berwick Mint and Seals of the Town - - - „ „ 235 11. Berwick from the Carr Rock - - - - - - „ ,,272 12. Ceiling and Fire-place of a House in Tweedmouth - - - „ „ 304 13. Map of Lands granted to the Town by Charter - - - „ „ 327 14. Trinity Church - - - - - - - - „ „ 364 15. The Old Bridge, 1620 - - - - - - - „ „ 408 16. Nicholson's Sketch of the Fall in the Bridge - - - „ „ 413 17. The Royal Border Bridge - - - - - - „ „ 420 18. Autographs of Mayors - - - - - - - „ „

Chapter I. Ierwick

is not mentioned while this district is under British or Roman sway. In the later Saxon period, when the Danes are attempting to establish their authority over Bernicia, and when it was considered that they were the dominating power, the Pictish King, Grig, or Gregory, swept down upon it, gained possession of Bamborough, and laid waste Lindisfarne. It was at this time — 872 ■that Boece, the Scottish historian, says that Gregory wintered in Berwick. Again, in Langtoff's ' Chronicle ' the following lines occur : ' In ye zere after [833] right in the time of May, Oseth, ye Danes Kyng, com Inglond to affraie. He aryved at Berwick, in the water of Twede, Priue help of ye Scottes he had at his nede And com fast toward ye South grete powere he led.' Roger of Wendover relates an incident in the same century and about the same date — 870 a.d. — in which Berwick, is again mentioned.

Regnar Lodbrog, sailing from Danemark in a small boat, was slain by his huntsman, Berne. Edmund of England investigated the case, since the murder happened on English soil, and punished the murderer by putting him to sea in the small boat in which Lodbrog had sailed, but without oars or any means of guiding the boat, to see if Providence would deliver him. The boat drifted to the coast of Danemark, and Berne was landed among the same people from whom Lodbrog had no long time previously sailed. Berne was at once treated as the murderer of the prince ; but invented a story to clear himself, in which he blamed Edmund, the English King, for the crime. The Danes, under the leadership of Inguar and Ubba, eager to revenge their chief's death, sailed for England towards the East Anglian coast. A violent storm drove them back, and turning northwards, they found no landing-place till they sighted Berwick.

After setting foot on shore they turned southward, ravaging the country till they encountered Edmund, whom they slew. These notices bring Berwick before us as early as the ninth century. Old chroniclers embellish their narratives with so much that is fabulous that no great faith can be put in any of these notices as really bringing Berwick into so early prominence in the annals of our country. Although the surrounding district continues to be harassed with con tending armies from south and north, Berwick is never again referred to for over 200 years. When Eardulph-Cudel, the slow and sluggish prince, ruled over the Northumbrian earldom, he met in pitched battle, with all his forces, Malcolm, the Scottish King, who was anxious to extend the southern limits of his kingdom. This battle, fought at Carram (Carham) in the year 1018, ended disastrously for the southern army, and the Scottish King was able from this date to claim the Tweed as a Scottish river, and Berwick, if it existed at all, as a town within the boundary of Scotia.

In 1 03 1 Canute, the Danish King of England, came north, and demanded homage from Malcolm for the recently annexed part of Scotland. This homage was performed by the northern King in due form. Previous to this time Bernicia had extended to the Forth, and Bamborough was the royal town of this extensive territory. Berwick does not become noted before the period preceding 1030. A mere village it must have been, neither a boundary town nor a fortified place ; for Bamborough would not have suffered such a stronghold in its immediate neighbourhood, especially on the opposite side of an important river. When the Tweed has at length become the dividing-line of the two kingdoms, and Berwick the border town to defend that line, it was but natural that Berwick should at once leap into greatness, and a rudely fortified castle assume a shape, more or less important, on that knoll to the north-west of the town, which has been for ages one of the most historically noted places in our country.

To support the view in the text of the origin of Berwick's rapid prosperity the following details are given by Skene in his ' Celtic Scotland ' : The kings of Scotland had now become possessors of conquered territory ; the Lothians were now their own ; and what more likely than that they should attempt to extend their limits still further south, and make the Tyne instead of the Tweed their southern boundary ? Duncan, grandson of Malcolm, and son of Crinan, the lay Abbot of Dunkeld, fired with this ambition, determined, shortly after 1030 a.d., upon a trial of strength with his southern foe. He overran easily the northern part, penetrating the land till he 833—1286.] History of Berwick. 3 threatened Durham. Here his further progress was stayed. He met the English force, and was defeated. His army was put to a disorderly flight, in which all his foot soldiers were lost and numbers of his cavalry slain.

Duncan was thus compelled to retreat with his self-imposed task unfulfilled. On arriving at Berwick, where he was met by Moddan, an earl whom he had appointed ruler over Orkney and Caithness, he learned that this earldom had been seized by Thorfinn, his own cousin, and son of Sigurd, late Earl of the Orkneys. Duncan determined to proceed northwards in person to Moddan's assistance. The latter set out at once by land ; but the King fitted out at Berwick a fleet of eleven war-ships, and set sail on the fatal expedition, which ended shortly afterwards in his assassination by Macbeth, of Shakespearian renown.* This notice of Berwick is sufficiently tanta lizing. Eleven war-ships fitted out in its harbour indicates a port of considerable age, magnitude, and importance. Why, then, are its surroundings so dark and impenetrable up to this date?

No ray of light has yet illumined those times, so that the history of the town must be traced onward from the reign of Duncan for a while yet, by very uncertain light, till at length we reach the end of the eleventh or the beginning of the twelfth century, when all uncertainty ceases, and the full light of day is reflected on every page. Duncan was assassinated in 1040 a.d. His young son Malcolm was sent to England for safety, because he was nearly related to Si ward the Dane, who was at that time Earl of Northumberland. Macbeth the usurper ruled over Scotland for seventeen years. He had sufficient to do with his own turbulent people to keep him from molesting the English. In 1054, when Malcolm was of age to think of regaining his hereditary throne, he, with the aid of Siward, penetrated to the heart of Scotland by sea and by land to conquer his rival.