1. Across America; or, the Great West and the Pacific Coast

Front matter

yosemite falls. THE GREAT WEST AND PACIFIC COAST; OR, Fifteen Thousand Miles by Stage-Coach, Ambulance, Horseback, Railroad, and Steamer — across the Continent and along the pacific slope — through the rocky Mountains, down the Columbia River, over the Sierra Nevadas — among Indians, Mormons, Miners and Mexicans. BY ORDER OF UNITED STATES GOVERNMENT. Witlj a Map of Entire Route and Eigljt full-page Engravings, Being Sketches of Men and Things from New York to St. Louis — in Missouri, Kansas, Nebraska, Colorado, Dakota, Wyoming, Utah, Montana, Idaho, Oregon, Washington, California, Arizona, Nevada, Mexico, and Central America. With a Chapter of Advice to Emigrants and Settlers. By JAMES F. RUSLING, BREVET BRIGADIER-GENERAL U. S. V. " I hear the tread of pioneers. Of nations vet to be ; The first low wash of waves, where soon Shall roll a human sea."

SHELDON & COMPANY, NEW YORK. CROCKER & STICKNEY, BOSTON, MASS. H. W. KELLY, PHILADELPHIA, PA. BRYAN, BRAND & CO., ST. LOUIS, MO. P. W. GARFIELD, CLEVELAND, OHIO. M. M. BURNHAM, SYRACUSE, N. Y. A. ROMAN & CO., SAN FRANCISCO, CAL. A. G. NETTLETON & CO., CHICAGO, ILL., and CINCINNATI, C. JilgT OF |l_LU$TRATIONg. i. A COLORED MAP OF THE UNITED STATES, MEXICO, AND CENTRAL AMERICA ; WITH GEN'L RUSLING'S ROUTE INDICATED BY A HEAVY BLACK DOTTED LINE. In a pocket nn the front cover. a. THE YOSEMITE FALLS, ... Frontispiece. 3. PLAINS INDIANS, - - - - . Page 54 4. THE TWIN LAKES (SOUTH PARK), " 104 5. BRIGHAM YOUNG, - "178 6. AN OREGON INDIAN, - - - " 344 7. MOUNT HOOD (OREGON), 17,400 FEET HIGH, " 256 8. THE YOSEMITE VALLEY (FROM THE FOOT OF MARI- POSA TRAIL), - - - - " 442 9. A BIG TREE IN CALIFORNIA (THREE MEN ON HORSE- BACK CAN RIDE INSIDE OF IT), - - "46a Copyrights 1877, by fame* F. Rusting.

Preface

. TN the summer of 1866, having lately concluded a tour -*- of inspection through the "West and South, and awaiting orders in Washington, it was my fortune one morning to receive the following : " Quartermaster-General's Office, ) " Washington, D. C, July 10, 1866. j " General : — You will immediately enter upon a tour of inspection of the affairs of the Quartermaster's Department, as administered at Fort Leavenworth, Kansas, and thence west via Denver City and Salt Lake City to the Pacific Coast, inspecting all intermediate Posts while en route. At Denver City you will confer with Brevet Col. Howard, A. Q. M., as to the practica bility of breaking up that depot, and removing the stores to other points where needed. Thence to Salt Lake City, where a rigid inspection is needed. Thence to San Francisco, Cal.

" Upon reaching the Pacific Coast, you will confer with the Commanding General and Chief Quartermaster of the Military Division of the Pacific, and having pro cured necessary information relative to the locality, importance, etc. of the various Posts, you will proceed upon a careful inspection throughout California, Oregon, PEEFAOE. Nevada, and Washington and Arizona Territories. Upon completing this duty, you will return to this city, via the Isthmus, and report in person to the Quarter master-General. " It will be necessary to keep this Office fully in formed, in advance, as to your probable whereabouts, so that instructions may be telegraphed to you at the stations where you are on duty when necessary. " You are authorized to take a clerk with you. " Very respectfully, "Your ob't. serv't., "M. C. MEIGS, " Quartermaster-General, ) "Brevet Mas -Gen., V.S. AX \ "Brevet Brig.-Gen. James F. Rusting, ) "Inspector Q. M. Deft." ) These, my orders, were subsequently endorsed as follows " HEADQUARTEK8 OF THE ArMT, ) "Washington, D. C, July 18, 1866. ) " Commanding officers will, on the requisition of Gen. Eusling, furnish the necessary escorts to enable him to make the within directed inspections.

"By command of Lieut.-Gen. Grant, " GEO. K. LEET, " AssH. AoljH.-GenX The general object of this tour, perhaps I should explain, in a word, was to examine into the condition of our various depots and posts West, and consider then

PREFACE.

. V bases and routes of supply, with a view to reducing if possible the enormous expenditures, that then every where prevailed there. How well or ill this was accom plished, it is not for me to say, nor is this volume the place — my Reports at the time speaking for themselves.* The route thus roughly indicated was long, and in parts reputed dangerous ; but for years I had cherished a desire to see something of that vast region in the sunset, and here at length was the golden opportunity. I need scarcely say, therefore, that I obeyed my orders with alacrity, and in the execution of them was absent in all about a twelvemonth. During that period, crossing the continent to San Francisco, among the Moun tains, along the Pacific Coast, and thence home by the Isthmus, I travelled in all over 15,000 miles, as per accompanying Map ; of which about 2,000 were by railroad, 2,000 by stage-coach, 3,000 by ambulance or on horseback, and the remainder by steamer.

This book, now, is the rough record of it all, written at odd hours since, as occasion offered. Much of this journey, of course, was over the old travelled routes, so well described already by Bowles, Eichardson, ISTordhofT, and others. But several hundred miles of it, along and among the Eocky Mountains, a thousand or so through Utah and Idaho, and perhaps two thousand or more through Southern California and Arizona, were through regions that most overland travellers never see ; and here, * Mostly published by Congress in 1867-8, and among the Pub. Poes, for those years. VI

PREFACE.

. at least, I trust something was gleaned of interest and profit to the general reader. Moreover, my official orders gave me access to points not always to be reached, and to sources of information not usually open ; so that it was my duty, as well as pleasure, to see and hear as much of the Great West and the Pacific Coast every where, as seemed practicable in such a period. The completion of the Pacific Eailroad, it will be noted, made this long tour of mine, by stage-coach and ambulance, through the Great West and along the Pacific Coast, about the last, if not the last, of its kind possible ; and, therefore, under all the circumstances, it has seemed not unfitting to give these pages to the world. Writing only for the general public, it will be noticed, I have tried everywhere to avoid all military and official details, as far as practicable, and to confine myself mainly to what would seem of interest, if not value, to everybody.

So, too, I have aimed to bridge the interval from 1866-7 to 1877 by such additional facts as appeared necessary; but without, however, modifying my own observations and experiences materially. If some persons, and some localities, are spoken of more flatteringly (or less) than usual, it is at least with truthfulness and candor, as things seemed to me. No doubt errors of fact have been committed, but these were not intended ; and some of these, of course, were simply unavoidable in a book like this. So, too, as to style, no pretension whatever is made ; but I claim

PREFACE.

. VII merely an honest endeavor to convey some useful, if not interesting information currente calamo, in the readiest way possible, and a generous public will forgive much accordingly. In brief, if what is here roughly 6aid will lead any American to a better love of his country, or to a truer pride in it, or any foreigner to a kindlier appreciation of the Eepublic, verily I have my reward. J. F. R. CONTENTS.

Chapter I

JVew York to Fort Riley, Kansas. Across America.— Off July 24, 1866.— West by Erie Railroad.— The Great West. — Northern New Jersey. — Western New York. — Ohio. — Miami Valley. — Indiana and Illinois. — Buckeye . ■?. Hoosier and Sucker. — Cincinnati and St. Louis vs. Chicago. — St. Louis redivivus. — Missouri. — Her Germans and Vineyards. — The Missouri River. — Leavenworth. — Lawrence and Topeka. — Valley of the Kansas. — Junction City.— Kansas Generally. — Her fine Building-stone. — Her Scenery. — Her Enterprise and Thrift. — " Fall Leaf " aud the Delawares. — A Big Chief and his Exploits. — The Pottawatomies. — Returning from a Buffalo Hunt. — The Indian in Kansas 21-33

Chapter II

From the Kansas to the Platte. Compagnons du Voyage. — Afloat on the Plains. — Travelling by Ambulance. — Camping-out. — Outfit and Escort. — The "divides." — The Platte itself. — The Grasshoppers. — Prairie-chickens and other Game. — Prairie Dogs. — A Happy Family. — The Little Blue. — The Pawnees and Indian rumors generally. — Virginia Station and Big Sandy. — The Settlers en route. —A Pennsylvania Dutchman Westernized. — Life on Fancy Creek. — Rev. Mr. Silvers of Wild Cat Creek. — A Pioneer Missionary. . 83-39 CONTENTS. X

Chapter III

Up the Platte to Denver. The Union Pacific Railroad.— The Overland Stage Company.— Mr. Ben Holladay. — An Enterprising Missourian. — Concord Coaches and Teams.— Stage Stations. — Meals en route. — The Drivers generally.— Fellow-passengers. — Col. B., an ex-Lieut.-Governor turned Sutler. — A Swiss Artist. — A Doctor of Divinity. — A New York Banker and his Patriotic Wife. — The Weather. — Life on a Stage-Coach, outside Day and Night. — The Scenery generally. — Magnificent Sunsets. — A particularly fine one. . 40-46

Chapter IV

Tip the Platte to Denver (concluded). The Platte Valley in general. — Its Features and Resources. — The Platte River itself. — The Canon Cedars. — Want of Timber. — Costly Fuel, Grain, etc. at Fort Sedgwick. — Scenery of the Plains generally. — Buffalo and their Range. — A Ride after Antelope. — Lost on the Plains. — Buffalo Trails. — The Settlers generally. — Kearney City, Julesburg, etc. — The Ranches. — Fort Wicked. — Wagon-trains. — Prairie Schooners. — Bull drivers. — Sioux Indians. — " Big Injun" stories generally. 47-57

Chapter V

Denver and the Mines. Denver itself. — A Mountain City. — Her Growth and Enterprise. — Judge Gale and her Gamblers. — Bishup Randall. — Her want of Trees and Shrubbery. — Metropolis of Colorado. — Gov. Cumming. — Hints of Judge Lynch. — Reception of Gen. Sherman and Brother. — Golden City. — The Snowy Range. — Central City. — Its Population and Pluck. — Placer Mining. — Quartz Lodes. — Gregory Mine. — A Good Superintendent vs. a Poor One. — Colorado Ores in general. — A new " process" wanted. — Watered Stock Companies. — " Freezing Out." — Mining Statistics. — The Coming Mineralogist.— Idaho City.— The Saratoga of Colorado. — Georgetown and Mill City. — Clear Creek and ride back to Denver. — Miners Slang. — " You Bet." .... 58-74 CONTENTS. XI

Chapter VI

Among the Mountains. First View of Rocky Mountains. — Above and Across them to Fort Garland. — Rumors of Indians. — A Stormy Divide. — "Dirty Woman's Ranch." — Castle Rock. — Buttes. — Monument Creek. — Garden of the Gods. — Pike's Peak. — Soda Springs. — Colorado City. — Canon City. — Fontaine qui Bouilli. — Irrigation. — Pueblo. — The Arkansas, Greenhorn, and Huerfano, and their Valleys. — Mexican Laborers. — Hincklin's Ranch. — Sangre del Christo Pass. — Views from Summit.— Descent into San Luis Park. — Sangre del Christo Creek. — A Mule-back Ride. — Trout Fishing. — Snow-squalls and a Cold " Camp." — Mexicans and Bronchos. — Culebra. — A Mexican Bailie. — Don Jesus. — A Dancing People 75-93

Chapter VII

Among the Mountains (continued). The Parks of the Rocky Mountains. — San Luis Park particularly. — The Backbone of the Continent. — The Rio Grande and its Bottoms. — Fine Trout-streams. — Snow Squalls. — Sierra Blanca. — Russell's Ranch. — Good Specimen of a Colorado Pioneer. — Homan's Park. — Kerber's Ranch. — A Dairy in the Heart of the Rocky Mountains. — Hospitable Germans. — Camping-out on the Summit. — Poncho Pass and Creek. — Absence of Game. — A Bad Road. — The Arkansas again. — South Park. — Leutze's Painting in the Capitol. — Mexican ■_.. Yankee. — Salt Works. — Duck Shooting. — Fair Play. — South Platte. — Placer Mining. — Buckskin Joe. — Judge Costello and his Hotel. — The Newspapers again.— r Elections of 1866. — Rocky Mountain Eagle. — Down the South Platte. — A Good Road. — Bradford's Hill. — The Plains again. — The Mule Kate. — A Gold and Silver Mining Company. — A Little Fun ! 95-113

Chapter VIII

The Indians — Gen. Sherman — Kit Carson, etc. Sherman and Utes in Council at Fort Garland.— Sherman and the Arrapahoes. — Gov. Cumming and Ute Treaty. — Indian Ponies. — CONTENTS. XII Ute Costumes.— Ute Village.— Boy Braves.— Indian Dogs.— Indian Profanity.— Lost at Night among them.— Something of an Adventure.— A Scary Situation.— Wellington.— The Treaty itself.— Ooray.— Ancantash.— Shauno.— Speech of Gov. Cum. ming.— Kit Carson as Interpreter.— Ooray's Cute Replies.— Indian Presents.—" Swopping."— Jack Cox.— Ute Dance by Moonlight on the banks of the Rio Grande.— Ute Squaws.— The Average Indian.— Kit Carson— His Personal Appearanco and Character. — His Life and Adventures. — Kit on Fremont. — Sherman on Kit Carson.— Kit on the Indian Question.— The Chivington Massacre, etc. — Sherman's Opinion of New Mexico, etc. Sumner's Ditto. — Sherman as a Talker and Smoker. 114-143

Chapter IX

Denver to Salt lake. Rocky Mountains from Denver. — Off for the Pacific. — Mountain Mud-wagons. — Laporte. — Gen. Dodge. — The Foot-hills. — Virginia Dale. — Miners going East to Winter. — Willow Spring.— An Indian Scare.— Stampedes. — Old Fort Halleck. — Laramie Plains. — North Platte and Valley. — Bridger's Pass. — Across the Summit. — Sulphur Springs. — Bitter Creek Country. — Alkali Region. — A Delirium Tremens Passenger. — A Square Meal at Laclede. — A Driver's Opinion of Bitter Creek. — Green River. — Church Butte. — Rocky Mountain Stories. — Stage-coaching Philosophically Considered. — Something about Smoking. — A Mustang Team and a Runaway. — Fort Bridger and Judge Carter. — ■ Sage-hens. — Marmion and the Bible in a Cabin. — Echo Canon. — Mormon Campaign, 1857-8. — Weber Valley. — Mormons.— Parley's Canon.— Salt Lake City.— A Hearty Sleep. . 143-163

Chapter X

At Salt lake City. Salt Lake House. — Beauty of the City. — Rasselas' Happy Valley.—. A Sunday at the Tabernacle. — A Mormon Missionary. — Their Sacrament. — George Q. Cannon and his Address. — Exercises generally. — Mountain Fever. — Hot Sulphur Springs. — City-wall. — Mormon Militia Muster. — The Review. — Their Lieuten- CONTENTS. XIII ant-General Commanding and Brigadier-Generals. — A Dubious if not Menacing Military Body. — Interview with Brigham Young. — A Talk about Southern Utah. — He " Disremembers' rather Suspiciously. — His Views on Religion, Polygamy, Utah, etc. — His Personal Appearance and Character. — Mormon Theatre. — Brigham and his Family Present. — General Audience. — Polygamy and its Effects 164-182

Chapter XI

Mormon Outrages — Polygamy, etc. Previous Impressions. — A Recent Outrage. — Dr. Robinson's Case. — Proceedings in the U. S. District Court. — An Atrocious Murder. — The Church Implicated. — A Vigilance Committee Proposed. — Shrewdness of Brigham Young. — His Telegram to Sherman. — It Paid the Saints. — The Logical Fruit of Mormonism. — Bad Teachings of Leaders. — Gentiles vs. Mormons. — Remarkable Statements of a U. S. Judge. — He Believes in Thugs and Danites. — His Views of Dr. Robinson's Case. — Mormon Juries. — Brassfield's Case. — The Mountain Meadow Massacre.— Brigham Young Responsible. — Andrew Johnson on Utah. — Growth of Polygamy. — Its Practical Workings. — A Second Wife on the Rampage. — Polygamous Children. — No Free Schools. — Foulness of Polygamy. — The Jury Trouble again. — Judge 's Remedy. — U. S. Troops essential there. — ■ Pacific Railroad unlikely to solve the Problem soon. — Brigham Young's Successor. — His Cowardice Personally. — A Brave Official. — The High Council of the Church overrules Federal Decisions, etc 183-198

Chapter XII

Mormonism in General. Mormon Industry and Thrift. — Their System of Irrigation. — Small Farms. — Good Homes. — No Drunkenness or Gambling. — Salt Lake City again. — Mormonism itself. — A Colonization Scheme, rather than Religion. — The Bishops Sharp Business Men. — The Tendency of Mormon Teachings. — Mormon Disloyalty. — Mormon Women. — Polygamy an Insult to Civilization. — A Crime against Humanity. — It should be Stamped Out, sans Ceremony, and Instanter 199-205 CONTENTS.

Chapter XIII

Salt Lake to Boise City. Ben Holliday again.— His Great Stage Lines.— Wells, Fargo & Co- Profits and Losses. — His Appearance and Character. — Off for the Columbia.— Great Salt Lake. — Brigham Young's Islands and Canons. — Hot Springs. — Ogden City. — Bishop West. — Joseph Young. — Brigham City. — A Ute Brave. — Ute Squaws. — Brigham Young's Indian Policy. — Bear River. — The Country generally. — Bad Water. — Malade Station. — Indians and Wolves. — Snake River. — Subterranean Stream and Cascade. — Great American Falls. — Barren Country. — Valley of the Boise. — The Ride generally. — Square Meals. — Mr. Superintendent Halsey. — A Live Man 206-222

Chapter XIV

Poise City to the Columbia. Idaho.— Bo's7 City. — Miners. — Saloons. — Specie and " Dust" ... Greenbacks. — John Chinaman. — An Idaho Dogberry vs. Judge Lynch. — Idaho generally. — Fort Boise. — A Lucky Paymaster. — " Swinging Round the Circle." — Off for the Columbia. — Burnt River and Powder River and their Valleys. — Snake River again. — Farewell Bend. — Steamboating on the Snake. — Bituminous Coal. — Oregon. — Baker City. — Grand Ronde Valley. — Le Grande. — Crossing the Blue Mountains. — Mules ... Horses. — Le Grande River. — Scenery. — A Corkscrew Road. — "Jordan a Hard Road to Travel." — Freight Trains and Teamsters. — Some " Horse" Philosophy. — Bull-whackers as a Class. — Ox-teams. — A Hard Pull. — Break-downs. — "Meacham's." — A Live Oregonian. — Pikes and Confederates. — Caught in a Snow Storm. — A Fine View. — " Crawfords."— " Well's Springs." — A Sick Horse. — Umatilla River. — Indian Reservation. — Fine Water-power — John Wilful. — A Specimen Idahoan. — Good-bye to Stage-coaching, etc 223-249

Chapter XV

Down the Columbia. Umatilla. — Indians. — A Mr. Micawber.— Steamboats. — Capt. Stump. — Oregon Steam Navigation Company. — The Columbia and its CONTENTS. XV Tributaries. — Indians. — " Calico " Horses. — Celilo. — Railroad Portages. — Shooting the Rapids in a Steamboat. — The Dalles. — Upper Cascades. — Lower Cascades. — Wild and Picturesque River Scenery. — Cascade Mountains. — Canon of the Columbia. — Castle Rock. — Mount Hood. — Hood from the Columbia. — Quick Changes of Climate. — Coast Region and Rains. — Fellow-passengers 250-200

Chapter XVI

Fort Vancouver to San Francisco. Vancouver. — Gen. Steele. — About Sherman. — The Truth as to Grant's Vicksburg Campaign. — A True Army Bachelor. — Isothermal Lines. — Superb Hood again. — Portland. — Her Enterprise and Importance. — Yankee Doodle vs. John Bull. — Puget Sound. — Oregonians generally. — John Chinaman. — His Good Qualities. — Off for San Francisco by Steamer. — Mountain Views from Mouth of Willamette. — Jefferson, Hood, Adams, and St. Helen's. — Astoria. — Rain and Fog. — Bar of the Columbia.— Fort Stevens and Cape Disappointment. — Crossing the Bar. — The Oriflamme and Capt. Conner. — Sea Sickness. — Bad Weather. — A Rough Voyage. — Off 'Frisco. — All hail, the Golden Gate 1 261-275

Chapter XVII

San Francisco. Her Position Geographically. — Her Great Bay. — Location of City faulty. — Her Sand-hills. — Her Sea-wall. — Her Great Commerce. — Some Statistics. — The View from Telegraph Hill. — Her Progress and Energy. — Bad Climate. — Her Rainy Winters. — Her Earthquakes. — Her Raw Summers. — Montgomery Street. — Her Public Buildings. — Private Residences. — Flower Gardens. — Wind-mills. — The Representative Californian. — Montgomery Street Dames. — Her Sabbaths. — Jewish Synagogue. — Starr King's Church. — Other Churches. — Society generally. . 276-289

Chapter XVIII

San Francisco (continued). Greenbacks vs. Gold and Silver. — General Prices. — Loyalty of the CONTENTS. Coast.— Anxious for Alaska.— Christmas and New Year's.— Lucky Army Officers.— Adventure on the Bay. — Oakland.— Cliff House and Sea Lions.—" Ben Butler " and " Gen. Grant." — Fine Ride.— Ups and Downs of California Life. — Eccentric Oscar H. — Things Improving. 290-299

Chapter XIX

San Francisco (concluded). The Heathen Chinee. — Their Numbers, Costumes, Habits, etc. — Eager to Learn Melican Ways. — Pigeon English. — Grand Banquet. — Their Graceful Manners. — Their Great Companies. — Their Talent for Organization and Business. — They run the Mission Mills and build the Pacific Railroad. — An Evening in the Chinese Quarter. — Their Theatre and Orchestra. — A Lottery Office. — The Barbary Coast. — An Augean Stable. — Their Gambling Houses. — Chinese New Year. — Their Hospitality and Politeness. — Good Bankrupt Law. — Their Josh-Houses and Religion. — The Chinese Problem generally. — Good Ground for Missionary Work. — Fiat Justitia. .... 300-321

Chapter XX

San Francisco to Los A?tgelos, Off for Los Angelos. — A Race with the Golden Age. — A Pacific Sea — Coast Scenes. — Santa Barbara. — Spanish Missions. — San Pedro. — San Diego. — Her Harbor. — John Phœnix. — A Deserted Village. — The County Jail. — Climate. — Business. — Whale-fishing. — San Pedro again. — Wilmington. — Gen. Banning. — A Representative Californian. — The Village Barber. — The Los Angelos Plains. — Rancheros. — Wild Geese, etc. — Acequias. — Los Angelos and its Suburbs. — Population. — Climate. — Sundays. — Vineyards. — " Don Benito " Wilson. — His Noble Ranch. — His Orange Groves, Vineyards, Wine-cellars, etc. — Cheap Lands. . 322-338

Chapter XXI

Wilmington to Fort Yuma. Outfit. — Getting Off. — Anaheim. — German Enterprise. — Santa Anna River. — Laguna Grande. — A Spanish Hacienda. — Buena Vista. — Villacito.— Colorado Desert.— Carissa Creek. — Desolate Land CONTENTS. XVII scapes. — Sand Storms. — Mirage. — The Laguna. — Alamo. — Pilot Knob. — The Country generally. — Stage Stations. — Carissa Creek again.— A Stray Texan.— Bill of Fare.— Indians.— A Border Outrage. — Gambling Charley. — Mexican Exiles.— Maximilian.— " Inside " and "Outside." .... 339-354

Chapter XXII

Fort Yuma to Tucson. Fort Yuma itself. — Arizona City.— Rio Colorado.— Difficult Navigation. — High River Freights. — A Yuma Sand Storm. — The Thermometer at Yuma. — Yuma Indians. — Old Pasquol. — Good Missionary Ground. — Gov. McCormick, etc. — " Outfit." — Off for Tucson. — Gila City. — The Gila itself. — General Scenery. — Gila Bottoms. — Bunch-grass and Mesquite Trees. — Arizona Settlers. — Gila Bend. — Maricopa Desert. — A Dangerous Canon. — Painted Rocks. — The Country generally. — Big Cactus. — Maricopa and Pimo Indians. — Well-to-do Aborigines. — Indian Traders. — Pimo Wigwams. — Our then Indian Policy. — Good Roads. — Sparse Population. — Big Cactus and Bunch-grass. — Picacho and Point of Mountains. — Climate. — Apaches, etc 355-373

Chapter XXIII

Tucson to Prescott. Tucson. — Misses a " Sensation." — Population. — A Mexican Padre. — High Prices. — The Santa Cruz. — Climate. — Apaches. — Blackbirds. — Rip Van Winkle Town. — Headquarters of Military District. — Route of Supplies. — Libertad and Guaymas Routes — Copper and Silver Mines. — Church at San Xavier. — Maricopa Wells again. — Freshets in the Gila and Salado. — Col. Crittenden, etc. — An Out-of-the-way Place. — A Fortunate Discovery. — Crossing the Gila. — Brave Louis Heller. — Mules on a Swim. — Crossing the Salado. — Fort McDowell. — Down the Salado. — Among the Apaches. — Poor Cavalry-horses. — A Blind Road. — The Agua Frio. — White Tanks. — A Supperless Night. — Up the Hassayampa. — A Hard Road to Travel. — Arizona Quicksands. — No Hurry for Population or Business. — Roads and Bridges Wanted 374-389 CONTENTS.

Chapter XXIV

Tucson to Prescott (continued). Wickenburg.— The Vulture Mine. — A Fine Quartz-mill.— A Valuable Mining Property. — San Francisco Mountains. — Singular Roads. — Skull Valley. — Sparse Population.— Apaches and Yavapais. — Bell's Canon. — Indian Attacks generally. — The Intervening Country. — Ancient Ruins and Broken Pottery. — A Huge Acequia. — Work for Antiquarians. — Good Bottoms along the Salado and Gila.— A Railroad Much Needed. . . 390-396

Chapter XXV

Prescott, the Apaches, etc. Prescott. — A New-England-like Village. — An Army Officer's Opinion. — Location, Plan, Buildings, etc. — A Barber's Opinion. — Her Gold and Silver Mines. — Her Quartz-mills Idle. — Mining Operations " Sick." — Her Advantages, however. — Capital of Arizona. — Population of Territory. — The Indians. — The Apaches generally. — Their brave Exploits. — Good Horse-thieves. — Their shrewd Strategy. — Their Captive Children. — A Raid near Prescott. — Their Pursuit to Hell Canon and beyond. — Gen. Irvin Gregg. — A Fight with the Apaches. — A Dangerous District. — A Typical Emigrant. — Aztec Remains. — A Fine Wild Turkey. — Fort Whipple. — A Costly Post. — An Expensive Flag-staff, etc. — Hail, Cavalry Gregg ! 397-408

Chapter XXVI

Prescott to Los Angelos. Off for Los Angelos. — Williamson's Valley. — Wild Game. — Juniper Mountain. — Rock Springs. — Cottonwood Canon. — Beale's Springs. — A Desolate Country. — Sage-brush and Grease-wood. — Want of Water. — Indians again. — Sublime Scenery. — Union Pass. — Rio Colorado again. — Mojave Indians. — Our Indian Policy then.— Fort Mojave.— A Rude Post.— A Pittsburg Lady "Roughing it" there. — Hardyville. — Adjacent Mines. — Mr. Hardy himself.— Costly Transportation the Great Drawback to Arizona.— The Colorado should be Utilized.— Beaver Lake.— A Desert Country again.— Changes of Elevation.— Heat and CONTENTS. XIX Rattlesnakes. — Interesting Bed-fellows. — Pai-Ute Hill. — A Break-down. — Camp Rock Springs. — Our Frontier Posts generally. — Soda Lake. — -A Weary and Anxious Sunday. — An Indian Scare. — Mojave River. — Strange Anomalies in Arizona and Southern California. — A Dismal Ranchman. — Camp Cady. — Cajon Pass. — San Bernardino. — The Los Angelos Plains again. — " Out of the Wilderness."— Back to 'Frisco by Sea. . 409-424

Chapter XXVII

San Francisco to Virginia City. Off for Sacramento. — Fellow-passengers. — Children. — Sacramento River. — Sacramento City. — Thence by Railroad. — Country generally.— The Wheat Fields and Live Oaks.— The Foot-hills.— Placer Mining. — Water-ditches. — Hydraulic Mining. — Changes in Climate. — Central Pacific Railroad. — Cisco. — The Sierra Nevadas. — Deep Snows still. May 17th. — Snow-sheds. — John Chinaman again. — Donner Lake. — The Truckee. — The Geiger Grade. — Sunday in Nevada. — A Noted Revivalist. Virginia City. — The Comstock Lode.— Silver Mining generally. — The Sutro Tunnel. — Mining a Risky Business. . . . 425-436

Chapter XXVIII

Virginia City to Stockton. Return by Placerville. — Carson City. — Carson River and Valley.— The Sierras again. — Mountain Turnpikes. — A Rough Night's Travel. — Crossing the Summit. — An Ambitious Mother and her Gertrude Jane. — A Morning Ride. — Lake Tahoe. — Splendid Stage-driving. — Placerville. — Sacramento City again. — California's Wealth of Roses, etc. — Country to Stockton. — Live Oaks. — Wheat-fields. — Vineyards. — Flocks and Herds. — Wind-mills.— Stockton itself 437-442

Chapter XXIX

Stockton to the Yosemite. Off for the Yo-sem-i-te. — Wheat-fields again. — The Stanislaus and Tuolomne. — The Coast Range. — Coulterville. — A Horseback Ride. — Mustang Pony. — My Guide. — Bower Cave. — " Black's." — ■ XX CONTENTS. A Romantic Trail.— Up and Over the Sierras.— Floundering through the Snows. — First View of the Yosemite. — Fording Mountain Torrents. — Descent into the Valley. — " Hutchings'." — A Ramble through the Yosemite.— A Fissure in the Sierras. — Its Lofty Walls. — Snowbanks above; Strawberries below. —Waterfalls.— Bridal Veil Fall.— El Capitan.— Yosemite Fall. — Merced River. — The Lake and Domes. — South Fork. — Prof. Whitney and Party. — The Cascades. — Vernal Fall. — Rainbows. — Nevada Fall. — Mt. Broderick. — Sentinel Peak. — Cathedral Rocks.— The Valley generally 443-455

Chapter XXX

The Yosemite to San Francisco. Prof. Whitney again. — The Mariposa Trail. — Inspiration Point. — A Sublime View. — The Hermitage. — The Snow again. — A Grizzly Bear and Cubs. — The Sugar Pines. — The South Merced. — " Clark's." — Galen Clark himself. — Mariposa Big Trees. — Grizzly Giant, etc. — The Species generally. — California's Duty. — Mariposa. — A Sleepy Town. — Honitos. — Bear Valley. — The Coast Range and Mt. Diabolo. — Stockton again. — Back to San Francisco. 456-465

Chapter XXXI

San Francisco to N~ew York. Ride to San Jose.— Off for New York.— The Weather.— Delightful Voyaging. — The Constitution. — Fellow-passengers. — Cape St. Lucas. — Manzanillo. — Acapulco. — A Mexican Sea-port. — " Greasers." — Good Divers. — Sights Ashore. — The Cathedral. — The Old Spanish Fort. — Off for Panama. — Panama itself. — Location. — Business and People. — Kailroad to Aspinwall. — Breakdown in a Jungle. — Tropical Scenery. — The Railroad itself. — The Natives. — Aspinwall. — The Rising Star. — New Pas sengers. — Caribbean Sea. — Cuba. — Gulf Stream. — Sandy Hook. — Home again. — " Adios." 466-477