Vacation Cruising in Chesapeake and Delaware Bays ... Illustrated

Front matter

BERKELEY — ON THE JAMES. VACATION CRUISING IN CHESAPEAKE AND DELAWARE BAYS. BY J. T. ROTHROCK, M.D., PROFESSOR OF BOTANY IN THE UNIVERSITY OF PENNSYLVANIA. " In brief, I may say that we have had somewhat too much of ' the gospel of work.' It is time to preach the gospel of relaxation." Herbert Spencer, New York Address. I L L US TRA TED. PHILADELPHIA: J. B. LIPPINCOTT & CO. 1884. Copyright, 1884, by J. B. Lippincott & Co. TO MY MOTHER THIS LITTLE VOLUME IS AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATED, IN GRATEFUL REMEMBRANCE OF HER DEVOTION TO THE WELL-BEING AND HAPPINESS OF HER CHILDREN. 1* 5 CONTENTS. CHAPTER PAGE I. Description of the Yacht, and Reasons for the Cruise 7 II. Down the Chesapeake and Up the James . . 15 III. Down the James and Up the Chesapeake . . 50 IV. Cruising on the Delaware River and Bay . 166 V. Who Should Go Cruising 238 VI. To Winter-Quarters in the Choptank . . CHESAPEAKE AND DELAWARE BAYS.

Chapter I. Description Of The Yacht, And Reasons For The Cruise

The plan of spending this vacation on the water grew gradually, and at last commended itself to my judgment, because it was cheap, full of health, and promised as complete a change in mode of life as one could hope to obtain. Furthermore, as I proposed partly utilizing the time by such natural history studies and observations as would not consume brain-power faster than it was created, some few books, a microscope, plant-press, and paper were required. These conditions were most fully met by making a small yacht my means of conveyance, my home, and my laboratory. It is to be remem bered that study was far from being the primary object of the cruise. To carry out my plan a strong, nearly new boat was purchased, — not a racing yacht, in which everything was sacrificed to speed, but a solid, " well-fastened" little sloop, whose qualities were safety first, comfort second, and some speed at the tail-end of a long list of good points.

This boat, originally the " Varuna," of Bridge ton (New Jersey), was renamed " Martha," for reasons which were entirely satisfactory to my little boys (who were my sailing companions part of the time) and to myself. The custom-house papers gave thirty feet long, eleven feet beam, and three and a half feet deep as the dimensions of the little craft.* * Much greater depth and less beam in proportion to length are now regarded as important elements of safety, and doubtless truly so ; but I was obliged to have a boat whose depth would not prevent my entering harbors where I particularly desired to go. An old waterman expressed his opinion of my boat by saying, " You can't drown her." No more sail was carried than was absolutely required. The spars were shorter and stronger than were usual in sloops of her size ; and, as further security against a capsize, more than a ton of pig iron was placed and fastened as low down inside as we could get it.

Six hundred to a thousand pounds more outside on her keel would have added to her sailing qualities, though without this the boat gave no indication of un steadiness. Before the vacation began every seam had been most carefully gone over and made tight ; the standing rigging was newly set up, and every cord of the running rigging was either new, or as good as new. Our ground tackle was two power ful holding anchors and plenty of manila rope to swing to. Cleats and reefing gear were all in per fect order. Not once during the entire summer were we endangered or incommoded from want of preparation of anything we should have had ready, but which was not ready. A good aneroid barometer held a place so conspicuous that it must be noticed, and thus we were left without excuse if not forewarned of coming danger by storm.

Compass, charts, lead and line, side-lights, anchor-light, and cabin-light completed the details that contemplated safety. Next came comfort. First of all, every avenue to the cabin was guarded by wire mosquito-net ting, — so well guarded that we absolutely escaped all torment from these minute flying fiends. We al ways kept the sliding cabin windows open. Hence we had the full benefit by day and by night of whatever "air was going." The "bunks" were large enough for men of moderate dimensions to sleep comfortably in, with tossing room besides. The rule that all bedding must be frequently aired was religiously adhered to. Food. — Canned corn, tomatoes, and baked beans, with rice, oatmeal, prunes, good pilot-bread, ham and the best breakfast bacon, tea, coffee, and sugar, I purchased for the season at wholesale price.

Fresh fruits and meats were obtained as required. If there was lack of luxurious living, there was no want of nutritious plain food. The medicine-case was well supplied, — not that it was needed much for the inmates of the boat, but because, in the out-of-the-way places where we went, it often enabled me to relieve some suffering fellow. There is a comfort in giving help without hope of reward, or without possibility of it, save such mental approval as a pure charity brings to the giver. A little of this does go a long, long way into after-life, softening one's own sorrows, and brightening his own joys. Hence, then, by all means, a medicine-chest. Another most important article was added — a small, cheap camera for dry-plate photogra phy. One may now be had at a price which is within reach of every tourist, and nothing is easier than to become an adept in the use of the instrument.

Let me suggest, however, that each tourist contemplating a prolonged trip purchase enough plates at once for his use, and that he fairly test their sensitiveness before leaving his base of supplies. I have no complaints to make because a large proportion of the plates of a well known dealer failed to give the results I had anticipated, and which I had always obtained before from his supplies. The fault was my own, that I had not tried the lot before starting out. We can hardly as yet guess how important a factor this amateur photography is to be in the book-making of the future. Neither can we measure its possible influence in opening minds to the quiet beauty or the sublime grandeur which our land everywhere possesses. To judge what its possible effect may be a century hence, study what it has already done for men — and women too — who, before they became amateurs, had no appreciation of the fact that a tree or a rock could have either individuality or attractiveness.

With out wishing to be over-enthusiastic, or be regarded as filled with the zeal of a neophyte, I can hardly avoid counting this art in as one of the humanizing forces of the times. Reading Matter. — What so good as some of Kingsley's writings ? Real enough to charm and invigorate the mind, suggestive enough to open whole realms to any student who has the capacity for observation or for generalization, yet without the details with which some authors drag their readers down to the level of those everlasting figures. There is a mental condition which grows out of constantly contemplating ratio and per centage which is dangerous, because the victim always fails to note that the sunshine is leaving his soul, and that, as his facts and his averages pile themselves higher and higher, his own inner self is being dwarfed.

Who of all writers could so fitly fill the little space left for reading matter as Charles Kingsley ? Of course there were, besides, the ordinary scientific and yachting manuals. One more element remained to be considered, which, if not under the head of comfort, comes under the more important one of health, — I mean cleanliness. Nothing so disturbs rest as the thought that as one sleeps visitors, demons of the night, children of filth, are feasting upon his blood ; or that some disease-germ, vigorous in the absence of fumigation, is nursing in his veins a progeny that shall work him unknown harm. This bar to bliss when cruising is often intimately associated with a hired vessel. But then there could be no excuse for it on board one's own yacht, so I determined that, inside and out, the vessel should be cleaned every day.

This rule was observed during the entire cruise, save for two weeks very early in the season. The yacht was also pumped out, washed out, and fumigated on the least suspicion that anything might be wrong, or on the bare idea that peace of mind or health of body could be in the least degree sub served by any additional precaution. And now, — " Over the rail My hand I trail, Within the shadow of the sail ; A joy intense, The cooling sense Glides down my drowsy indolence." — Drifting. Note. — During the summer I had the pleasure of having with me, each for a short time, the following gentlemen : Messrs. George Johnson, William Butler, Jr., James Sellers, Professor G. M. Philips, and Mr. James Bull. My two little boys were with me several weeks. So that not the least among the de lights of yachting is the privilege of having friends share what ever of pleasure there may be in it. I

Chapter II. Down The Chesapeake And Up The James

Friday afternoon, June 9, I met the " Martha" at Delaware City, whence we were to go through the canal to the Chesapeake Bay. Of course it was an unlucky day on which to begin a long trip, though I am bound to declare that, looking back on the events of the cruise, I do not see just where the misfortunes came in. The day was exceedingly warm, and a dead calm rested upon the waters. The glare of the sun was almost intolerable to the eyes ; though I must say here that this intolerance of the bright reflection ceased in a few days. The hours from ten, when I reached the place, until three, when the yacht came into the lock, passed away very slowly. The local industry which appeared to be most thriving at that time was sturgeon-catching. Two or three antiquated river sloops and schooners lay alongside the wharf.

The odor arising from them told plainly enough what their vocation was. But the crews of these sturgeon-boats revealed most unexpectedly a fondness for the beautiful. The air of the town was filled with the perfume of roses, which were then blooming in profusion. Sturdy, oil odored sturgeon-fishermen wandered through the town with huge clusters of roses, giving you as they passed the mingled perfume of the rose and the fish in the same inhalation. This unlooked for susceptibility, however, was not so strange as it was to discover that the place where the roses came from was a bar-room filled with a noisy crowd. The roses and the rye were dis pensed over the same bar. The " Martha" entered the lock at Delaware City, as has been said, at three in the afternoon. By four we were hitched on to the steam-tug " Swallow," and long before dark were through the canal.

When constructed, this canal must have been one of the great internal improve ments of that age. The wonder is, however, that in spite of it Baltimore did not filch away from Philadelphia more of the grain crop which was grown on the Pennsylvania hill-sides. It is i doubtless well known who the moving spirits of the enterprise were, and also what their object was in cutting the State of Delaware through. One can readily understand how, in the interest of its great city, Pennsylvania could well afford to have made the canal, if necessary, in order that her own grain crop at least might be handled in and exported from her own chief port, rather than to have gone abroad from another State. As a rule, there is no inspiration in canal navigation, or certainly few people find it. For all this it was a really enjoyable trip across from bay to bay.

Our transit was made in the delicious cool of the evening, after a frightfully hot day. The adjectives used are strictly intentional and premeditated, for the sufficient reason that they express more truly than figures can how the noonday and the evening temperature affected us. I do not know where the mercury would have stood, because I never carry a thermometer when on a Southern cruise in summer, for it is simply exasperating to know just how much heat we are enduring. It is far more comfortable not to have the exact figures ; they always intensify the sun's rays. In the canal we enjoyed the scenery and b 2* the rich perfume from the magnolia and the fox grape. I would really quite like to spend a week in working (botanizing) along the banks of the canal. There is a luxuriant, and apparently a very varied, flora in the region.

On Saturday morning our patience was almost exhausted before we were taken in tow by the tug for the Elk River. The master of the tug did not care to venture out so long as the fog remained dense. Probably he was entirely right, because until eight o'clock objects distant more than a hundred yards were shut out from view ; though the captain of a large Crisfield schooner did not think so, and, hoisting his sails, he started to work his way down to the Elk. However, — "luck in leisure," — we passed him very soon when the tug did start. As we entered the Elk the fog cleared away entirely, and the glorious water view opened before us to the southward. I never look from above the Bohemian River down toward the bay that this panorama does not impress me. It does so more and more the oftener I look at and enjoy it.

To the south there is no visible limit. The bold, timber-covered bluffs east or west, with navigable rivers coming in between, run so that the horizon widens as one looks south. It is a scene characterized neither by grandeur nor yet by quiet beauty alone. The combination of water, of plains, and of hills in just the proper proportion is what completes this perfect picture, — so perfect, too, that each season brings its own special beauty to the view. Back from the water a little distance, on higher ground, may be seen the comfortable houses of the farmers. Without indicating the presence of great wealth, the whole appearance of the region is one of thrift and abundance. There is no sign of the " take-it-as it-comes" spirit which is so common south of An napolis ; the air of the place rather speaks, " Make the most of it."

Turkey Point, high and timber clad, the location of an important light-house, stands like a sentinel between the Elk and the wide, shoal mouth of the Susquehanna River. Probably one should say as little harsh in char acter about wind or weather as possible when cruising, for he can alter neither one nor the other; neither does it indicate a well-ordered mind to find fault with that which cannot be helped, and which, even if we could alter, would s. probably be the worse for the interference. Still, as a simple inquiry, it may be allowed us to ask, — how many days of the summer season does the southern-bound navigator find head-winds to con tend with on the upper, or indeed the whole, Chesapeake Bay? By four in the afternoon we entered what is known to fishermen, oystermen, and others of aquatic tastes as Still Pond Harbor.

It lies just south of where the Sassafras River empties, or rather opens, into the Chesapeake. That which is taken for the harbor generally is but a deep indentation or bay opening to the west, and hence, with a wind from the same direction, is merely a trap from which there can be hardly an escape, and in which one must ride out a sea backed by the width of the bay. In the October gale, some years ago, there were several " oyster pungies" lost in this very harbor; so, at least, I was informed. I had good reason for knowing that there was one such unfortunate there as late as 1879, for, entering the harbor about dark in the evening with the schooner " Alice M.," we struck fairly upon the wreck, — fortunately for us, however, with no evil results. Not a sign marked the presence of this dangerous obstacle save the " wake" or ripple made by the wreck itself.

The Still Pond is an offshoot or an inland pro longation of the harbor, and with which it is con nected by an inlet say seventy feet wide and twice or thrice as long. That we found it and came to anchor in it, as but few yachtsmen do, I am indebted entirely to the sagacity and the pluck of " Lew," to whom, by the way, I have not yet introduced the reader. " Lew" is a comely, open-hearted yachtsman, of say twenty-one, whom I was fortunate enough to secure as assistant before I left the Delaware. He is experienced, companionable, and trust worthy; and I can only hope that in future I may never meet with a worse man or a less re liable man 'than Lewis Seaman. It was through him, as I have said, that we found the way into Still Pond. I had been in the harbor before, and had not found the pond.

He had not been there before, but did find it. That is just the difference. He noticed the inlet and saw how rapidly the tide ran out, and at once reasoned there must be a large body of water behind the inlet to force a current through with such velocity. So we headed for the inlet, and gradually saw how it increased in size as we approached, until, when in its mouth, the pond opened to our view; but the current, which suggested the pond, well nigh prevented our reaching it. The wind died away as we approached the inlet, and when we were in it, ceased entirely. So the anchor was dropped, and then " Lew," taking a rope over his shoulder, went ashore. I hoisted the anchor on board, and " Lew" towed the yacht through into the mouth of the pond. East and west the land locked, beautiful pond spread out before us.

Every one who is fond of the water has some ideal harbor which suggests perfect safety, easy landing on attractive shores, and what more each must add for himself to complete the pic ture. To me, when longing for a week on the water, this one, Still Pond, is ever uppermost in my mind. I often plan a whole vacation spent there. There is room enough for a large fleet in the pond, but, unfortunately, the bar across the mouth prevents vessels drawing more than three feet of water from entering. My chart shows on the southern shore of the harbor another arm, much like this on the north, but I have never explored it. In the interest of humanity, it is to be hoped that means may be taken to deepen the channel into this Still Pond ; for it is doubly hard that men should perish, as in that October gale, when there is an absolutely secure anchorage in full sight.

Considered from another stand-point, this place is one of those glorious surprises which so often strike a person cruising in the Chesapeake. Not only did the beauty of the spot take possession of me as soon as it was disclosed, but within half an hour after we had dropped anchor, Lew's net had caught all the fish we needed for supper. Had the Pilgrim Fathers landed here instead of where they did, it is doubtful whether their piety and importance would have allowed them to stop short of the belief that a spot so delightful and so prolific was created specially for them, and the work of Indian extermination might have been prosecuted with intense zeal. Pike, yellow neds, perch, catfish ! Surely such a bill of fare might well awaken the enthusiasm of any man with a yachtsman's appetite, even if he were ab solutely devoid of his sporting proclivities.

Every hour of day or night appeared to me to have brought some peculiar sound. In the morn ing we had catbirds, blackbirds, kingfishers, and fish-hawks ; at noon, a family of crows, young and old, kept up a most persistent and vigorous cawing. Whether the last was a lesson in elocu tion for the junior members of the family I can not say, though there appeared to be some object and some method in it. At night a legion of frogs gave us a prolonged high-toned serenade. Close along the northern shore there is a clean, gravelly bottom, and a somewhat greater depth of water than a little farther out, where, on top of the gravel, a slimy, dark, oozy mud is depos ited. The tide at that point appeared to flow more rapidly along-shore. Examining the mud microscopically, we found much decaying, loamy matter, some very fine sand, and a number of the silicious skeletons of diatoms.

I never saw so many, or such industrious fish-hawks. All day long we could hear them coming down with a splash into the water. Of course an occasional bald eagle appeared, to exact his contribution from the hawks. Even the crows seem to be unusually aquatic in their habits here. I saw one go down into the water almost as recklessly as the fish-hawks did. High grounds and low grounds were close by our anchorage, and we found the yellow clover, the small verbena, the blue-flag, and the mountain-laurel all within a stone's throw of where we lay. This was not the first time that I have won dered why men will sail without a barometer on board. We had a fine thunder-storm, and from our point of safety could enjoy it. The heavy thunder and vivid lightning and puffy squalls would have combined with the rain, which came down in force, to make sailing in the bay unpleasant enough.

When we anchored, there was not a cloud in sight; but for all this the barometer warned us to prepare. We did so. There is always more or less danger in sailing in the bays in small craft, and it is simply common sense to take the lesser risk which the barometer affords. Monday, the nth, we were off by six in the morning. It was natural that we should leave Still Pond with regret. We had no reason to anticipate finding other harbors both as safe and as pleasant. Let me say to other yachtsmen that, in going out the inlet, back-flaws and baffling b winds may very often, if not usually, be expected as the bluff, where the pond narrows into the inlet, is passed. Sometimes these uncertain elements cause no little trouble in " working ship" where the channel is so narrow. Once out in the bay the little " Martha" en countered the full force of a strong head-wind, and fairly danced on the waves like a cork.

White caps were forming on all sides. The wind was puffy and uncertain, — now almost a calm, when the boat would lose her headway and lie like a log; then in an instant a violent puff would strike the sail, knocking the yacht down, rail to the water, before she could gather speed enough to make her mind the helm. We now appreciated the full value of the fixed iron ballast. More would have been better, as the excessive buoyancy was a dis advantage in these short, chopping seas. Ballasted, as the boat had been the previous year, with sand, most of which was hardly below the water-line, such sailing must have been dangerous in the extreme. The amazing stupidity of many yacht owners is absolutely a marvel. Most of those with whom I spoke before placing the iron in my vessel were rather inclined to tender their sympathy that I could be stupid enough to buy iron when I could pick up sand or stones.

The reason why I did not buy more and place it where it belonged, outside in the form of an iron keel, was because it involved an expense greater than I felt at liberty to incur. The worst fault was not lack of stiffness, but great buoyancy. Lew remarked, in a quiet way, " This boat takes the trouble to go right over the tops of all these waves." So it was ; for sometimes she actually appeared to jump half her length out of the water. Three miles ahead we sighted another point, one which marked a tempting harbor. The tide had turned and was against us ; this, with adverse winds and waves, decided us to put into the harbor, — Worton's Creek. The attempt to beat down to Annapolis involved a long, hard day's work, with no pleasure whatever in the sail. Giving the yacht more sheet, we headed for the creek, en tering it in good style, flying past a party of fishermen who were running out an immensely long seine.

Once fairly in, we sighted two arms, one of which ran northward, opening into a con siderable expanse of water, the other and more in viting one extending toward the south. We beat into the latter about a mile, and dropped oui anchor opposite to Buck Neck Landing. Shortly afterward the steamer " Van Corlear," from Balti more, came in and afforded us a chance to send off our mail. For a while the place appeared to be alive, carriages thronging the wharves to receive those coming, and to help away those who were leaving. But they departed with the steamer, and in half an hour the place resumed its wonted quietness. Dreaminess appeared to rule the hours. For the rest of the day hardly a sign of life was visible. I made several attempts to purchase some rope which I needed on the yacht, but found the mer chant was taking a nap, or had gone visiting, or was somewhere else than in his store.

Late in the evening the desired purchase was made. The law of compensation, it is evident, runs through the whole universe outside of ourselves. I am con vinced now that it at last decides the individual destiny. Were it not for some such law, men at Buck Neck Landing might live forever, or cer tainly as long as the patriarchs. The world's troubles do not appear to concern them, the world's thoughts never agitate them ; come peace, come war, nerve-tissues and myosin are renewed as fast as expended, and but for some beneficent disease or accident men never would leave there to stay even in Paradise. The place would be overcrowded. With fish in the waters and fruit on the land, these kind-hearted, generous, and honest inhabitants would remain, in quiet and in sunshine, until they multiplied enough to wear their clothing out by jostling against each other.

There was a solitary living exception to what I have said, visible from meridian until four p.m. A good-natured colored boy amused himself by the hour sculling a heavy " yawl-boat" over to the western side of the creek ; then, hoisting a broad board in the bow for a sail, he threw himself down in the stern of the boat and scudded be fore the wind back to the eastern shore. He was full of the languid poetry of drifting; his whole soul was saturated with it, though it never found expression. The solitary reader of his Muse was myself. Happiness is a purely relative term. This, of course, is a platitude. But who of all mankind ever come to fully appreciate the breadth of even so plain a thing, and to rest con tent with the present ? I have in mind now two 3* who illustrate the extremes. One of them is that young negro.

He came alongside, and I gave him a bucket of preserved prunes, which neither Lew nor myself could tolerate. He received them with open eyes and mouth. If he only knew how little generosity there was in that gift, we would suffer in his estimate. He soon be came too full of happiness on preserved prunes even to enjoy the pleasure of crossing the creek behind his board-sail. We saw him on the other side, with his feet hanging over the boat and re ceiving the caress of the water, just as his face, upturned to the sun, was comforted by the su perheated rays. An hour later Pompey came alongside again. For the gift of a cigar he con sented to have his " picture tuk." Marked on the lower part of the store building I found thestatement, " High-water mark. Sep tember 17, 1876." It was gratifying to obtain the fact, not only because it was a fact and indicated a storm-tide several feet higher than com mon, but because it evinced interest in an unusual event.

However, two months later I should have seen busy times on that very quiet wharf, when the peach crop, one great interest of the region, was being shipped. We went ashore during the evening, and enjoyed the hospitality and conver sation of one of the near residents. Annapolis. — Tuesday, the 12th, we left our anchorage on the last of the ebb tide, and headed south for Annapolis. We hoped by making an early start to reach our destination in spite of the adverse and heavy weather. So we did, but it was at the cost of vast patience and severe buffet ing. As the crow flies, the distance would have been considerably less than thirty miles. In a fair wind the run would have been a very short one ; but in a small boat, with wind and tide both against us, it consumed a great part of the day. Yet it appeared that we were not much worse off than others who were in sight and bound the same way.