The Great Country; or, Impressions of America

Preface

. The oft-repeated assertion of Americans, that America is a wonderful country, no one can con tradict who has visited it. For this country, wonderful in extent of territory, and still more wonderful as evidencing what human industry and perseverance can achieve, Nature has done much both by her own direct operation, and also by the co-operation of man. One hears with amazement of millions of square miles of arable land, of coal, iron, lead, copper, and gold in abundance, of food, both animal and vegetable, in superabundant quantity. All this, ready as it were to man's hand, he has merely to come to, to utilize and consume. Some political economists in our own country point to America as a sort of Utopian state of society, to which we should strive our utmost to attain. This sounds very well, and has been so often repeated, that it has forced itself on the attention of many thinking people.

Let us from these theories turn to the fact, and content- PBEFACE. VIII plate America as it is. The North, with its hands reeking with its brothers' blood, exulting, insolent, and victorious ; the South, crushed, but still defiant, panting to imbrue its hands afresh in the blood of the North — breathing out nothing but vengeance and hatred against its victors — ready to hail foreign annexation, or even despotism, in preference to submission to Congress. Turn to the governing powers, and what do we see but an unseemly and undignified struggle between parties, not in vindication of any great principle, but a series of mere political dodges by which influence may be gained for the ensuing Presidential election ; the most shameless system of plunder carried on in every department of the Government ; corrupt judges receiving bribes from those in authority, who are brought to the tribunal of justice for wholesale embezzlement; office regarded merely as a means of self-aggrandizement by all who hold it ; every species of wrong and robbery pervading the whole system, and only tolerated by those out of office because they are waiting their turn to come in for a share of the public spoliation.

These charges, sweepinoas they may seem, are brought by the Americans themselves. Each section of the public press de nounces the conduct of opponents, whilst it observes

PREFACE.

. IX a discreet silence as to the doings of its own party. Everything is a gross job. New York is perhaps one of the worst lighted, worst paved, worst kept cities in the world, considering its size and im portance. The condition of its streets would disgrace Timbuctoo, and when you express astonishment at such a state of things, the reply is that the munici pality is the most corrupt in the world, and that there is no thought of attempting to reform it. Americans are very fond of expatiating on the faults and defects of other nations ; they do not hesitate to offer advice to their neighbours generally, and adopt a tone of superiority which, to say the least, is in questionable taste, even if it were not utterly untenable. Were they content to take their true place in the social scale, it would be all very well ; but they have an opinion that, as a nation, they are as great morally as they are physically extensive.

Let us examine the claim, and see on what it is based. No one but a mean-minded, un generous person would intentionally twit either a man or a nation with inferiority of origin, unless either should forget its antecedents and assume an undue position. This is the American fault. An overweening self-esteem, a conceit without bounds, and a total absence of both taste and refinement, are

PREFACE.

. X the blots on the national character. Pray do not cry out against me that I am attacking Americans wholesale, and denying that there are admirable members of society to be found in that country. What I mean to assert is, that the better class is in such a minority, or else so overborne by the noisy, clamorous crowd of politicians, that it shrinks from any sort of publicity. It is very certain that, as a rule, men of respectability abstain from politics. When a man goes into politics, or takes to drink ing, he is regarded by his friends as equally lost. Politics are a trade, and a most disreputable one, entered into by adventurers and knaves of the worst kind. Nothing is too vile for a politician to stoop to. And these I am sure are the views of the vast majority of respectable Americans.

What I write will not be palatable to the general public in that country, but I am emboldened in making my statements by the knowledge that I am expressing the sentiments of all those whose good opinion is of any value. In writing, I am not requiting with ingratitude hospitality and kindness received. I am not violating the sanctity of private life. I am only writing of America as it appears on the surface to a traveller. I am acquainted intimately with but few Americans, the valued friends I possess in that

PREFACE.

. XI land being chiefly my fellow-countrymen. I judge America from its journals, its hotels, and such inter course with the people as travelling has enabled me to have. I feel less hesitation in speaking plainly on this subject, as I am assured by the press that Americans have lost all their sensitiveness, and are quite indifferent to the opinion of foreigners. I wish it to be understood that it is not my design to institute comparisons between America and Great Britain. I am sensible of the defects of both coun tries ; nor would I shrink from stating my honest convictions with regard to my native land, should the occasion present itself, as I have now recorded my candid opinion of a country which I regard as entirely foreign. The tone in which I write may be attributed by some to disappoint ment ; but I beg to assure those who feel a kindly interest in my affairs, that my visit to the United States has not been a failure.

I had a great desire to see the country and people, in order that I might write and speak about both, and I have secured abundant material for my purpose. I had very strong inducements to pay the visit for family reasons. I certainly regret having seen so little of Americans in private, though had I been better acquainted with the inner life of the country I could

PREFACE.

. XII have made but little use of any experience I had acquired. Private life must ever be held sacred by a writer who desires to be considered a gentleman. With regard to my career as a public man in America it is hardly worth referring to, beyond stating how much obliged I feel for all the kind encouragement I received in a country where I was almost unknown, and from a people on whom I had no sort of claim beyond that wliich courtesy and good feeling demand for a foreigner. As far as my entertainment is concerned I will say nothing, but give a paragraph extracted from the New York Tribune of the 9th May, written after my de parture from New York : — " DEPARTURE OF ARTHUR SKETCHLEY. "The Java, which sailed on Wednesday, for Liverpool, carried out among her passengers Mr. Arthur Sketchley the humourist — author of the Mrs. Brown Papers — who, as our readers are aware, has been in the United States since last autumn.

In the course of his stay Mr. Sketchley has made but few public appearances. His Mrs. Brown entertainment, at Irving and at Dodworth Halls, was altogether mismanaged by the business agents who laid hold upon it, and therefore it did

PREFACE.

. XIII not, in the large sense of the word, attract the attention of the public. Many saw it, however, and all who saw it enjoyed it. Our own testimony in its favour was promptly borne at the time ; and we have the pleasantest recollections of Mrs. Broivn's comical garrulity, apt use of satirical imagery, shrewd common sense, kindly domestic sentiment, and homely goodness of heart. Mr. Sketchley lived in retirement during most part of the time that he was here, and thus made but few friends. To them, howbeit, he commended himself by his amiability and gentleness, his cheerful good-nature, his ready sympathy, and his most various and amusing con versation. We cordially wish him a safe and speedy voyage home, and steady and ever-increasing pros perity in the good work of amusing and cheering his generation.

No man in our time has a wider or more important field of labour than the laughing philosopher." In conclusion I may remark that, should the opportunity present itself, I would willingly revisit America, and should rejoice could I say with sincerity that a second visit had effaced from my memory all the unpleasant impressions which had been made by the first. I am not writing bitterly

PREFACE.

. XIV or with the wish to undervalue the Americans, but to do my best to dispel an illusion under which some well-meaning Englishmen seem to be labouring, that it should be our aim to try and bring all the institutions of our beloved country into closer proximity with those of the United States. I write the more confidently because I feel sure that all Americans who are true-hearted, honest, and sincere, agree with me, though it would be too much to expect that they should avow it, for, like good children, they do their best to conceal even that which they deplore in the parental conduct. CONTENTS. Page THE EMPIRE CITY 1 BROADWAY 4 THEATRES 13 HOTELS AND RESTAURANTS 21 CONVEYANCES 27 THE LADIES 32 HABITS AND CUSTOMS AND CHARACTER .... 35 EDUCATIONAL AND OTHER INSTITUTIONS . . . . 41 BOARDING-HOUSES 59 MORALS, MARRIAGE, AND DIVORCE 63 SERVANTS AND LABOURERS 68 FUNERALS AND CEMETERIES 71 CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS, ETC 74 GENERAL REMARKS 78 BROOKLYN 84 JERSEY CITY 101 BALTIMORE 112 WASHINGTON H5 CONTENTS, XVI Page RICHMOND 147 CHARLESTON 167 MOBILE 178 NEW ORLEANS 187 MEMPHIS 208 MISSISSIPPI 210 ST. LOUIS 216 CHICAGO 219 ON THE RAIL .... ... 232 GENERAL REMARKS 239 EN ROUTE TO NIAGARA 244 BOSTON 249 SARATOGA . 256 NIAGARA 266 A PEEP INTO CANADA 272 MONTREAL 275 OTTAWA . . . , 284 REMARKS ON CANADA 294 THE STATES AGAIN 299 REFLECTIONS 331