By Track and Trail. A journey through Canada ... With ... sketches, etc

Chapter I. Outward Bound

PAGE The Parmesian and her Passengers. — Fine Weather at Sea.— About the Decks. — Captain Jones's Gallantries. — Captain Jones's Dignity. — Astronomy Lessons. — "Varieties of Life. — Father Terry. — A Negro " Jubilee " Troupe. — A quadroon Beauty. — Mr. Selby. — Plans and Prospects. — Introductions. — The Selby Family. — The Belles of the Ship. — Emigrant Types. — Eating and Drinking. — In the Smoking-room. — Tarns and Songs. — Flirtation by Moonlight. — A Change of Scenery. — Foggy Weather. — Icebergs. — The Bears of Anticosti. — A Concert on Board. — A Love-lorn Swain. — Mr. Charles Donald. — Up the St. Lawrence. — In Port. 1

Chapter II. Quebec And Montreal

Getting Ashore. — First Troubles. — The Baggage Difficulty. — A Friend in Need. — A Quebec "'Bus." — The St. Martin's Hotel. — Our Reception. — The "gentlemanly" Clerk. — Sky Parlours. — Amply provided with every necessary. — Remonstrances. — An ''elegant" Dinner d la Parisienne. — Famished Travellers. — My Toilet Glass. — Paternal Cares. — A Detrimental. — Conversation thereon. — The Colonel's Dessert-spoon. — Seeing Quebec. — More Omnibus Experience. — Off to Montreal, and glad to go. — ' Canadian Minstrels." — Better Quarters. — Disgraceful Roadways. — An enlightened Irish Boot-black. — Strange Arguments for Home Rule. — Montreal and its People. — The young Couple in Disgrace. — A " Colonial Sleeper." — Master Charlie packed off . . . . 15

Chapter III. On To Manitoba

Canadian Contractions. — " All on board going West ! " —Our Sleeping-Car. — First Night Experiences. — The Ottawa "Valley. — The Diniug-Car and its Resources. — " They 're English Girls ! " — How we Fared. — A Halt by the Way. — Lake Nipissing. — A very new Hotel. — Backwoods Economy. — Primitive Manners. — Settlers at Home. — Astonishing the Natives. — CONTENTS. VI PAGE 28 12 54 Girls' Opinions. — On the Track again. — "Where are we now?" — The old Tote Road. — Burnt Forests. — Along Lake Superior. — Beauties of the Scenery. — Port Arthur and Thunder Bay. — Fort William. — The Keewatin District. — Timber, Gold and Silver, Game. — The Lake of the Woods. — We enter Manitoba. — The Red River.— Arrival at Winnipeg .

Chapter IV. The City Of Winnipeg

Our Arrival. — First Impressions. — Genial Welcomes. — We are Invited to Invest. — " Lots." — " The Boom." — Local Politics. — The Manitoba Club. — The Mount Family, their Story and Difficulties. — English Settlers in Manitoba. — Disappointment. — The Boarding-house in Winnipeg. — " This will not do for us." — Tom's Anticipations. — My Sage Advice. — An Excursion to Stony Mountain. — Our " rig." — " Call that a Mountain ! " — Penitentiary and Convicts. — The Last Herd of Buffalo in Canada. — People and Shops in Winnipeg. — St. Boniface, and the Roman Catholic Cathedral. — I leave the Selbys and go on West .....

Chapter V. Across The Wheat Country

Old Shipmates. — An Immigrant Family. — "Innocents Abroad." — Portage-la-Prairie. — The " Beautiful Plains." — A Settler from Devon. — "Wouldn't I like to go Home again!" — Farmers' Prospects. — A New and Go-ahead Prairie Town. — I reach Broadview. — How they welcome Travellers in Canada. — The Dining Hall. — Poor Prospects of Supper. — "It's Real Mean!" — The Servant Difficulty. — Interviewing "the Ladies." — Elegance and Hauteur. — Pleading for Food. — Softening the "Prairie Flower." — Pie! — On Charlie's Trail. — Rough Accommodation. — Looking for Meadows's Farm. — A queer Inhabitant. — Found at Last. — Bluffs, Sleughs, Shacks, and Dug-outs. — Meadows's Home. — My Friend's Experiences of the N.W.T. — Cattle versus Wheat.— A Drive in an Ox-cart — The Town of Broadview. — The Liquor Prohibition Law. — New Acquaintances. — Bruce. — Wild Beasts and Birds- Some Skunk Stories. — Insects and Flowers .....

Chapter VI. Life In The Nor'-west

Meadows's Neighbours. — A Sunday Visitor. — Friend Brown's Loquacity. Canadian Habits.— Miserable System of keeping Cattle.— Shiftless Ways. — A Prairie Walk. — Fire-guards. — Hardy and Donald "At Home." — The House.— Charlie's Cookery. — Prospects.— A Chat about the Love Affair.— Despondency.— Cattle versus Wheat.— Bad Seasons.— Nothing like Cows.— I enjoy my Life.— Want of Society.— Apathy of the Settlers! —A Drive on a " Buckboard."— Jovial Bruce.— His comfortable Home- Why the Neighbours called him a " Crank."— The English Style and the CONTENTS. VII PAGE 77 94 109 123 Canadian Style— a Comparison. — Nor'-West Form.— The Result of Five Tears' Work. — Lady Dairy-maids. — What Girls can do in the N.W.T. — The Price of a made Farm. — Bruce's Daughters. — Effect of the Climate on Health ........

Chapter VII. English Tourists And Nor'-west Settlers

" Cotton Snow." — Gardening. — More about the Climate. — Breaking Prairie. — Nor'-West Form. — A Visit from TeUowcalf. — Indian Princesses. — I induce the Selbys to come to Broadview. — How about Accommodation P — Difficulties. — The Manager of the Dining Hall. — Important Consultation with " the Ladies." — Preparations and Plans. — Arrival of the Selbys. — Inspection of Meadows's Place. — General Consternation. — Visit to Hardy and Donald. — " Do you always live like this ? " — Lovemaking, Advising, Speculating. — Weighing Pros and Cons. — Laying Plans. — My Expectations totally defeated. — The Selbys in Broadview. — " Why are the Settlers so Wretched ? " — Another Visit to Bruce. — A Family Council. — Packing up. — Good-bye ! — Onward ! . . .

Chapter VIII. Across Assiniboia

Bruce's Farewell to us. — Some Fellow-passengers. — Mr. Selby's Explanations. — Trouble about our young Lovers. — Life on the Cars. — Comforts of the " Sleeper." — Indian Head. — The celebrated Bell Farm, and what I learnt about It. — The great " Drink Question." — Regina. — Our sleepless Porter. — A Conversation. — Tom Selby's Ideas. — "So that 's why Maud objects ! " — Buffalo Bones. — How Englishmen are metamorphosed on the Prairies. — "Tame Injuns" at Maple Creek. — Antelopes. — Medicine Hat. — A Prairie Fog. — Coal and Iron. — The Saskatchewan Bridge. — "Wild Injuns" at Gleichen. — Difficulty of distinguishing Sexes. — Their Grace and Beauty. — Cannuck's Attempt to enlighten Me. — Anticipations of the Rockies. — But Trouble Ahead ......

Chapter IX. Mishaps In The Mountains

Stopped by Snow. — A Bridge down ahead. — Cannuck's Criticisms. — Enjoyment under Adverse Circumstances. — Terrible Tales. — Mending the Bridge. — A Perilous Crossing. — Another Bridge down. — Trans-shipment necessary. — Mutiny. — Walking the Planks. — Waiting in the Snow. — A Hungry Crowd. — The Glory of the Mountains suddenly Revealed. — Relief. — A Colliery Village in the Rockies. — Cascade Mountain and the Devil's Head. — Banff and Disappointment. — No Food and no Sleeping-car. — An Invasion of Mountain Ladies. — Magnificence of their Attire. — Inferiority of their Escort. — I propose to exact Damages from the C.P.R. Warned not to " try that on." — A Stone Avalanche. — Risk}* Moments. Kicking Horse Valley. — We arrive at Field, in British Columbia CONTENTS. VIII

Chapter X. Over The Rockies

PAGE Field Hotel.— A welcome Breakfast.— Views in Kicking Horse Valley.— Burning Forests.— The old " Tote Road."— A burning Tree across the Bridge.— Cannuck's Philosophy and my Lament.— Golden.— First View of the Selkirks.— Arrival at Donald.— Aspects of the Town.— Phases of Humanity.— Vegetation.— A Visitor to the Cars.— Views of an English Lady concerning Life in the Rockies.— Expenses.— Horrible state^ of Things socially.— Invitations to speculate.— Whistling Billy's Gold Mine. —A Conversation.— I argue the Point.— And speak my Mind on the Gold-mining Question. — Onward again. — Ascending the Selkirks.— Grandeur of the Scenery.— In Rogers' s Pass.— More Vexation.— " By the Company's Orders."— Glacier House.— A Haven of Refuge at last . 137

Chapter XI. In The Selkirks

Our first Morning at Glacier House. — Breakfast. — The Station-master. — What News ? — The glorious Scenery around. — At length the Wires " speak." — Walking on the Track. — We interview the Section Men. — A Gentleman Navvy. — His Experiences. — An Anecdote. — How a Canadian Farm-labourer turned out to be a Nobleman. — Descent into the Illecillewaet Canon. — Some Canadian Fellow-passengers. — Their insatiable Appetites and Inhospitality. — Albert Canon. — Revelstoke. — A miserable Scene. — We are " Dined " by the Company. — Ascent of the Gold Range. — Eagle Pass. — An actual Pioneer tells us the true Story. — Engineering Difficulties in the Early Days. — Feats of Mohun aud Moberly. — Lake Scenery in Columbia Valley. — Chinese Labourers. — Kamloops. — A Beef -raising District ... . 150

Chapter XII. Down The Pacific Slope

Father Terry turns up. — A Little Mystification. — Morning on the Thompson River. — Father Terry forgets his Breviary. — His Description of Kamloops, and Opinions thereon. — What we saw from the Train. — The "City" of Lytton. — The Fraser Canons and the Cascade Mountains. — Feats of Engineering. — Changefulness of the Scenery. — Sisco Bridge. — Luxuriance of the Vegetation. — The Tale and Carriboo Trail. — What British Columbia was in " the Early Days." — Present Decay of once Flourishing Settlements. — Habitations and their Inhabitants. — My Opinion of the Chinese. — Breakfast at North Bend. — More Delightful Scenery. — An Indian Cemetery. — The Trutch Suspension Bridge. — An Indian Fisherman. — Our two Fair Ladies. — Maggie's Love and Maud's Objections. — Boston Bar. — Tale. — A Perishing City. — Hope. — Port Moody and Disappointment. — The Sea ! The Sea ! — Glorious Views. — Vancouver City reached ....... CONTENTS. IX

Chapter XIII

A YEAR-OLD CITY. PAGE Vancouver City. — On the Platform of the Dep&t. — The Advantage of having Pretty Girls in a Travelling Party. — The Le Grand House. — The Manager makes Difficulties. — The Lady Proprietress. — The Food Difficulty as usual. — A Friend in Need. — View from our Windows. — The Felled Forest. — Enormous Trees. — Douglas Pines. — China-town, and what we saw from it. — A Dinner Party. — The German " Nobleman " who waited. — Boots, and how to black Them. — I " let out " at the Manager. — And speak my mind.— He offers to Trade, and I sell Him my Coat. — The Philosophy of Weather-grumbling. — Rapidity of House-building. — The C.P.R. Hotel. — The Houses and Stores.— The Site of Vancouver. — Roadways and Streets. — Churches and Public Buildings. — The Wonderful Enterprise exhibited. — Lots and Investments again. — Arrival of the Abyssinia from China and Japan. — Excitement in the Town. — The Pilot's "News." — The Captain Interviewed ..... 181

Chapter XIV. Some Aspects Of Vancouver City

Canadian Hotel-life. — Contrast with English Manners.— Curiosities of the Service. — Peculiarities of the Table Equipage. — The Bill of Fare. — Old English Settlers. — 'Business Manners and Customs. — We are " Mentioned in the Papers." — Letters from Broadview. — Division of Opinions. — Mr. Selby's Troubles. — Maggie's Message to Toung Donald. — New Acquaintances. — The Morland Girls. — Englishmen " at Home." — View of the Mountains. — We Start on a Picnic. — Moodyville. — Saw-mills. — By Trail through the Woods. — " The most glorious walk we ever had ! " — What the Le Grand House provided for our Luncheon. — We leave it for the Beasts of Prey. — The Indian Village. — Attempts at Conversation. — "Ton King George ?" — Friendly Red-skins. — We try to Hire a Boat. — Difficulties. — " Kloshe Canim." — An Interpreter at Last. — Trouble Dissipated. — We embark in a Canoe. — "Kla-how-ya!" — " Wait till you see Victoria." — Local Jealousies. — A. Temporary Separation. — I prepare for an Excursion ........ 196

Chapter XV. Up Burrard Inlet

Bread Missing.— Our Craft. — Its Passengers. — Entrance of the North Arm. — Voyage up. — Landing in the Wilds. — A Walk in the Woods. — I discover a Kentish Neighbour. — The Surveyors' Camp. — Comfortable Quarters. — Glorious Surroundings. — British Columbian Fiords. — The Admiral, and other Chums. — A rainy Morning. — A Fishing Excursion proposed. — A Row and a Clamber. — Indian Discouragement. — Plenty of Fish, but no Sport. — An Artist's Paradise. — Flora and Fauna. — The Surveyors' Experience. — " Muck-a-Muck." — A Row up the Arm. — A Chat about Trees. — Naming Mount Elephanta. — My first Sight of a wild " Big-horn." — Terrible Grandeur of the Scenery. — Charlie's Suppers. — Extensive Tea-drinking. — "Now, Boys, we'll go." — A risky Voyage. — Back to Vancouver City . .... CONTENTS. X

Chapter XVI. Vancouver Island

PAGE To Victoria in the Yosemite. — The Siwash Rock. — Indian Sepulture. — The Straits of Georgia. — Arrival at Victoria. — English Habits prevail. — -A Chat with Maggie in the Morning. — Father Terry's last Breakfast with us. — His View of Irish Politics. — Farewell! — Beacon Hill. — Splendour of the View. — The Angels' Stairs. — The City of Victoria. — Its English Character and Homeliness. — The Shops and Institutions. — Hotels. — The Streets and the People. — Ladies' Dress. — Ferns and Roses. — A Row up Victoria Arm. — The Gorge. — An Exploration of Indian Kitchen Middens. — A most enchanting Picnic. — Master Tom's Ideas. — A trifling Difficulty. — The Tide in the Gorge. — Beaten. — Rescued. — An Indian Lady. — A Chinook Belle. — The social Status of educated Chinooks in British Columbia. — A Reminiscence of Mine. — An Indian Judge. — I mistake an Indian Lady for an Englishwoman. — High Qualities of the Race . 228

Chapter XVII. The Garden Of The Dominion

The Road to Esquimalt. — The Navy Tard. — Description of It. — The View. — The Ships. — Carey's Castle. — Looking across the Straits. — English People and English Habits. — Chinese Servants. — A Tankee Lady. — Victoria the civilizing Centre of the Pacific Coast. — Gonzales Rocks and McNeil's Bay. — Wild Flowers. — Farming. — Fruit-growing. — Land, Settling, Climate. — Some Remarks on Vancouver Island. — Nanaimo. — The Coal-mines. — Gold. — Fish and Fisheries.- — The Oolachan. — Trout-fishing. — Big Game. — The Chinese in Victoria. — My Opinion of them. — A Defence of the Race. — Comparison with White Labourers. — Wages and Prices. — Manners. — Work versus Beer. — Drink in Canada. — The Selbys' Flans. — A Decision at length arrived at. — Poor Maud ! . . . 245

Chapter XVIII. About The Chinooks

Diffusion of Indian Blood among the British Columbians. — The Indians Themselves. — Their tribal Divisions. — The Hydahs. — General Loyalty.— Mode of Life. — Houses and Boats. — Totems. — Features of an Indian Village. — Personal Adornments. — Carvings in Wood, Stone, and Silver. — Possible Japanese Origin. — A Tankee Tourist. — A little argumentative Discourse with Him. — Trees and Cows. — How I floored my Man over Jersey Cattle. — And Crockery. — Last Days in Victoria. — Business done in the City. — Prospects. — But the Hotels ! -The villainous Management of Canadian and American Hotels. — My Appeal to all concerned. — Improvements in the C.P.R. Establishments. — Salt Spring Island. — Views there. — On Board the Yosemite. — Uninviting Aspect of Vancouver City after Victoria. — Tom Selby's Arrangements. — A new Proposal. — English Bay. —A Pic-nic ........ CONTENTS. XI PAGE 276 291 301

Chapter XIX. Reminiscences

An Explorer's Tale. — The Howe Sound Copper-mine.— Landing at Seechelt. — A deserted Village. — Finding a concealed Canoe. — Paddling up Salmon — Going up to the Mine.— A rough Ascent to the Snow-line.— Camping in a Storm. — Finding the Mine. — Descending. — " The Dark Timber."— How to get Home. — Peterson's Plan.— A bold Venture.— The Sardines. — Effect of them on Peterson.— In the Rapids.— A Mistake. — Peterson's Dream. — Running the Rapids. — Camping on Texada. — Sails up. — Making for Nanaimo.— Crossing the Gulf in a little Boat.— Why the Gold-reefs are not easily found. — The Great Fire in Vancouver City in 1886. — A Resident's Account of It. — Sunday Afternoon. — Rush of the Fire from the burning Bush. — Flight of the Inhabitants. — Quick Spread of the Conflagration. — Rush for the Water.— The Robert Dunsmuir. — Roughs Loot the ruined City. — Loss of Life. — Incidents of the Fire. — Monday Morning.— Rebuilding begun.— A Tale of British Pluck and Energy. — A Visit to the Chinese Quarter ....

Chapter XX. New Westminster

Advantages of Vancouver City. — Harbourage. — The C.P.R. — Pacific Routes. — Native Produce. — Its Peojule and Past History. — Immense Energy Displayed. — What it has Become. — Its Certain Future. — Leaving with Regret. — Finding the Baggage-master. — His Nonchalance. — Politeness Disdained. — I try Rudeness. — And with Success. — How to get yonr Baggage Checked in Canada. — Port Moody. — Through the Glorious Woods. — Arrival at New Westminster. — The Colonial Hotel. — A Decent Waiter and a Good Dinner. — About the City. — Its Institutions and Business. — Charming Homes. — Indians Fishing. — Beautiful Scenery. — I sit Sketching by the Roadside. — The Passers-by. — Festivity in Prospect ..........

Chapter XXI. Mosquito Time

" Fruit Social." — Surprise at our going Home again. — A pleasant Time. — What we thought of New Westminster. — Ou to Port Hammond. — Hospitable Hosts. — "Leather Jacket." — A Camping Expedition. — On the Fraser. — Salmon Fishing. — "Up the Pitt and across Flooded Meadows. — Discomfort of the Hotel.— A Night of Terror.—" The Miskitties."— A wonderful Boating Excursion. — Floods. — Waiting for the "Boom." — Tom tempted. — Leather Jacket's Hunting Lodge. — No Fear of Thieves or Tramps. — A charmingly situated Hermitage. — Our Surroundings. — Sketching under Difficulties. — Battle with Mosquitoes. — I am Beaten. — " A Smudge." — Supper. — Sleeping in the Smoke. — Pitt Lake. — An Enchanted Scene. — More Mosquito-fighting. — Back to Port Hammond. — Mosquito-nets wanted. — Tom's Decision. — "I won't live Here among the Mosquitoes." — Purchase of Bruce's Place. — Starting for North Bend CONTENTS. XII

Chapter XXII. On The Fkaser

PAGE At Mission. — Agassiz, on Harrison Lake. — No Accommodation for Ladies at Tale.— Parting with Tom at North Bend.— Difficulty in getting a Lodging there. — Mrs. Kerry of the C.P.R. Boarding House. — The Evening Promenade. — Pomposity of Officials. — Sending a Telegram. — Tom's and Maggie's Prospects. — Mr. Selby and I talk and plan. — A Lucky Chance of hiring Good Servants for the Young Settlers. — An Indian Fishing Camp. — Methods of taking Salmon. — Profusion of Fish. — Indian Luxuries. — Indian Manners and Customs. — Conversing with them in Chinook Jargon. — Their Industry. — Flowers. — The Gateway of the Canons. — Indians returning from Town. — Tale of a Lion. — Departure from Tale. — On the Cars again. — Conductor Newman. — A Sicamous Man's Experience of "them Miskitties." — Revelstoke. — American Fellow-travellers "enthuse." — Four Days in Wonderland. — The Advantages of Long Boots — And of Long Hair in " Mosquito Time " .... .317

Chapter XXIII. Big-horn Shooting

Visiting the Glacier. — View from it. — Dismal Grandeur. — A fresh Bear's Track. — " Hurry up, Girls ! " — Glacier House a Tourist Centre. — Mount " Chops." — A Swedish Ganger. — News of Big-horns. — An Expedition Proposed.— Alpenstocks. — We start. — The Trail goes "Blind." — Following up a Mountain Stream. — The Snow-line reached. — A Scene of Dread and Mystery. — Waiting and Watching. — Big-horns in Sight. — My first Shot kills. — Another Down. — The Booty. — Camping on the Mountain. — Going Home in the Morning. — Onward. — The Bridge over Stony Creek. — Queer Quarters at Golden. — Up the Columbia in the Duchess. — Getting into the Lake. — An Immigrant Family. — Sioux Indians.— Policy of the Provincial Governments. — Country round Columbia Lake. — Gentlemen Navv.es. — A Delightful Spot to Settle in. — Again at Field . 332

Chapter XXIV. Once More In The Rockies

Letters from Broadview. — -Miss Lloyd again. — Comments. — Views from Field. — Bears on Tree-tops and " Lobsters " on a Mountain. — A Walk up the Track. — Talk with an Irish " Protestant Boy." — Reports of a Rich Lode. — Interviewing the Owners. — White Eye and Blue-Eyed Bob. — Trying to Deal. — " Look here, Mister, I 'm on the Drink." — No Deal. — Titled Guests at Field Hotel. — How they were Treated. — Leaving Field. — How to "do" the Rockies most Enjoyably. — Banff. — Brett's Sanatorium. — An Impossible Breakfast.— Rich Colour of the Scenery. — The Canadian National Rocky Mountain Park. — The Hot Springs. — Analysis. — Junction of the Bow and Spray.— The Show-place of the Rockies. — Ennui of the Visitors.— The Mosquitoes keep us Alive— Even at Church. — The Great Drawback of the Country.— Why don't they use the Commonest Precautions ? — A Friend from Kent turns up . . CONTENTS. XIII 397

Chapter XXV

maud's love-story. Our new Friend Puzzled. — A Waltzing Waitress. — A little Diplomacy. — Revelations. — An unlucky Remark makes a disappointed Swain. — At the River-meeting. — " I'm going to be a Brick-maker." — Disgusted with civilized Life. — Mr. Martin's Views of Things. — Mention of Seagood. — Maud blushes, and I talk to Her. — It all comes out. — I enact the " Heavy Father."— Mr. Martin's "Sunday rig." — Plans and Explanations. — Mr. Selby's Tribulations. — His generous Disposition. — The Price of a Picture. — Native Ideas of Entomology. — A back-handed Compliment. — On to Calgary. — A great Prairie Centre. — About the Town. — A Drive on the Prairie. — Mother and Daughters at a Settler's House. — Our Jehu and his Steeds. — Visit to a Bachelor's Ranche. — Climate. — Fishing. — Herding. — Shooting Lynx and Coyote. — Indians, civilized and savage. — Lots and Houses. — Leaving Calgary cold and hungry. — " The Hogs are not all dead yet ! " 365

Chapter XXVI

phases of prairie life. From Calgary to Broadview. — Arrival. — Welcomes. — Deneholme. — Thomas Selby, Esq., at Home. — Maggie quite satisfied. — And Charlie Donald, too. — That young Man's Ideas and Prospects. — Want of Capital. — The flowery Prairie. — Beauty and Luxuriance of the Vegetation. — At Meadows's Place. — Haymaking. — A Visit to the Pipestone. — Lena Lloyd makes a Call. — A Mosquito Tarn. — Gunning. — Stopped by Indians. — Misunderstanding. — Captured. — The mysterious Loop Rope. — " We must each shoot a Man, Tom, before we die." — But Tom runs for it.— A laughing Explanation. — Miss Lloyd's Antecedents discovered. — A Chat with Meadows. — Cattle the only sure Thing for Farmers. — Loneliness. — Visit to a Back-settler. — Children herding Cattle. — Hard Times. — " We like it."— Six Visitors in three Tears.— What Settling in the N.W.T. really means 380

Chapter XXVII. Harvest-time In Manitoba

Tom and Maggie settling down. — Neighbours and their Ways. — A Trip to the Indian Ueserve. — The Crooked Lakes. — Idleness of the "tame" Indians. — Wandering about the Reserve. — Vain Search in the Rain for Colonel McDonald's. —The Qu'Appelle. — Indians Journeying. — I depart alone for the East. — In Manitoba. — About Carbery. — Narrative of a Farmer. — Twenty Tears in Canada. — The Result of Nine Tears' Work. — A successful Experience. — Some Statistics. — Methods of Work.— Secrets of Success and Failure. — Manitoban Woods and Game Grounds. — Improved Appearance of the Country. — Winnipeg again. — Canoeing up the Red River. — Storm and Darkness. — A mad Feat. — Getting a " Drink " on Sunday. — Winnipeg Mud. — Down Lake Superior CONTENTS. XIV

Chapter XXVIII. Toronto, Hamilton, And Lake Muskoka

On board the Athabasca. — Michigan. — Into Lake Huron.— Owen Sound. — By Train to Toronto. — The usual Food Difficulty at the Station Restaurant. — Beaten ! — Lome Park. — A hyper-moral teetotal Suburb. — " The Queen City of the West." — Description of Hamilton. — Its Buildings and Institutions. — The_ Beach and Dundas. — Niagara re-visited. — Old Identities. — Back tc Toronto. — Description of the City. — Social Aspects. — Style and Fashions. — Canadians much more "toney" than English People. — The Servant Question. — Letters from Broadview. — Muskoka, " the Picturesque Playground of Canada." — Description of the Lake and Neighbourhood. — The Island Summer Residences. — Painted Advertisements on the Rocks. — Lake Rosseau. — Shadow River. — Fish and Game. — I hear that Seagood is coming out. — What a Mistake ! — Of course, Miss Maud is at the bottom of this !.......... 411

Chapter XXIX. The Indian Summer

To Peterborough. — The Otonabee River. — Bringing Logs to the Mills. — Tows, how Floated. — Mr. Seagood arrives and meets Me. — Breaking the Ice. — A Serious Palaver. — A Stupid Entanglement. — My Plans and Advice for Him. — An Excursion proposed. — Going up to Clear Lake. — ■ Our Camp on an Island. — Fishing and Shooting. — A delightful Picnic. — Visiting Settlers from Bedfordshire. — A Backwoods Home. — The right People in the right Place. — Bears a great Nuisance. — I resolve to hunt Them. —Great luck ! a Bear in the Corn. — Stalking. — A steady Shot. — The Bear my Prize. — Congratulations. — The Camp broken np by a Cablegram from England. — Seagood summoned Home. — Tidings of great Joy. — Seagood's Impatience. — The Glory of the Woods. — Collecting Skins and other Specimens. — Leaving Peterborough. — The Meeting in Montreal. — Happiness. — Once again on board the Parmesian . . . 428

Chapter XXX. Conclusion

Homeward Bound. — Mr. Selby expounds to me his Views on the Settlement of Affairs. — A Discussion. — Relative Merits of the N.W.T. and British Columbia. — Broadview jeers at Tom's English Ways. — Friend Brown's Commentary. — Mr. Selby has financed our Friends Matrimonial Prospects of the Toung People. — All Satisfactory. — Anticosti. — The Straits of Belle Isle. — Fellow-passengers and their Impressions of Canada. — My own Opinion of the Country and what I saw There. — Advice to intending Colonists and to Tourists. — A few Words to British Farmers. — An Instance.— Comparisons.— The English Farmer in Canada, and what his Opinion is.— Our Trip ended at Liverpool.— Later Events detailed in Letters from Tom Selby and Meadows.— And so I make my Bow to the Reader fist as ptts. BY TRACK and TEATL ...

Frontispiece MEADOWS'S DUG-OUT To face p. 67 BY TRACK ACEOSS THE PEAIRIE 112 FIELD HOTEL AND MOUNT STEPHEN „ 137 THE SELKIRKS , 141 YALE AND THE GATE OF THE FBA- SER CANONS „ 179 BURRABD INLET, FROM COAL HAR- BOUR 185 A VANCOUVER STREET 192 IN THE GLORIOUS WOODS ,, 221 THE SIWASH ROCK 229 MOUNT BAKER, SEEN FROM BEACON HILL 234 DEADMAN'S ISLAND ..> 238 THE GORGE „ 240 THE ROAD TO GOVEBNMENT HOUSE, VICTOEIA 245 ESQUTMALT 246 VIEW OF THE STEAITS ,, 248 VIEW FEOM SONZALES ROCKS ... „ 250 MOUNT OLYMPUS FROM M'NEIL'S BAY 252 SKTDEGATE. QUEEN CHARLOTTE'S ISLAND 263 THE MAINLAND OF BRITISH COLUM- BIA 272 ENGLISH BAY 276 IN STANLEY PAEK 293 AT NEW WESTMINSTER 299 VIEW ACROSS THE FRASER FROM PORT HAMMOND ... ' ... To face p. 302 MOUNTS MOHUN AND HAMMOND 310 AN INDIAN CEMETERY 325 THE GLACIER AND MOUNT SIR DONALD f( 333 THE GREAT GLACIER OF THE SEL- KIEKS ,, 334 MOUNT CHEOPS, FEOM THE TRAIL TO THE GLACIEE 335 BIG-HOEN STALKING IN THE SEL- KIRKS 337 THE VAN HOENE RANGE 349 VIEW FROM BRETT'S SANATORIUM „ 358 JUNCTION OF THE BOW AND SPEAY ,, 361 DEVIL'S HEAD LAKE 362 A BLACKFOOT SQUAW , 375 WILD AND TAME INDIANS — A CON- TRAST ,, 378 A BLACKFOOT CHIEF 379 JONES'S PLACE , 393 INDIAN TEEPEES ,, 399 INDIANS ON THE TRAIL 401 SULKY-PLOUGHING 406 THE RED EIVEE, LOOKING TOWAKDS FOET EOUGE 408 MUSKOKA 424 STONY LAKE.— A TOW OF LOGS 433 MAP SHOWING AUTHOE'S ROUTE fist us protaftms.

PAGE A DREAM-LIKE SCENE 224 CHARLIE! TEA! 225 A BIG-HORN 226 TOTEMS, HOUSE-FRONT, AND DANCING- BLANKET 264 CONE-SHAPED HEADS 265 MOUNT BAYNES, SALT SPRING IS- LAND 271 GEANVILLE STEEET, VANCOUVEE CITY 274 HAIG'S SALMON CANNF.RY 305 LEATHER JACKET'S HUNTING-LODGE ... 308 PITT LAKE 313 "A MISKITTIE" 316 INDIANS SALMON-FISHING 322 A "BUN" OF SALMON 324 MY FIEST SHOT AT A BIG-HOEN ... 339 ROCK MONUMENTS 342 THE TUNNEL 350 BLUE-EYED BOB 353 LAKE HECTOR 357 DENEHOLME 382 PRAIRIE PLOWERS 384 HAY-MABING 386 A MISUNDERSTANDING 389 A " LONG PEAIE1E DOG " 396 MAPLE GEOVE 404 A SUMMEE RESIDENCE IN LORNE PARK 415 HAWKS' NEST EOCKS 425 SHADOW EIVEE 426 AN ALLIGATOE TURTLE 434 FAIEY LAKE 436 SHOOTING THE BEAR 438 PAGE TRILLIUMS 26 SETTLER'S FIEST HOME 5 ICE ON NORTH SHORE, LAKE SUPERIOR 38 IN THE DINING HALL 61 AMERICAN "PIE" 63 ASKING THE WAY 5 A PRAIRIE SIGN-POST 66 BRUCE ?2 PRAIRIE BIRDS 73 PEAIEIE ANIMALS 75 THE MOLE-LIBE AMBYSTONE 76 MEADOWS AT HOME 78 HAEDY AND DONALD'S SHACK 81 YOUNG ME.ADOWS BREAKING PRAIRIE... 96 A TRANS-SHIPMENT 128 A TRANSFORMATION SCENE 130 CANON OF THE KICKING HORSE 139 WHISTLING BILLY 145 A SNOW-SHED 153 GRIFFIN LAKE 161 THE REAR PLATFORM 163 ON THE THOMPSON EIVER 168 PRAIRIE SCHOONERS ON THE CAERIBOO ROAD 174 THE TEUTCH SUSPENSION BEIDGE ... 177 ON BOAED A CHINOOK CANOE 207 THE " FAIRY " PASSING SEYMOUR VALLEY 212 THE CAMP 215 OUR FISHING EXCURSION 219 MOUNT ELEPHANTA 222 A SEA OF SNOWY MOUNTAIN-TOPS ...