Travels in India in the Seventeenth Century: by Sir Thomas Roe and Dr. John Fryer. Reprinted from the 'Calcutta Weekly Englishman.'

Front matter

TRAVELS IN INDIA in tin; SEVENTEENTH CENTURY: BY SIR THOMAS R<»E. AND DR. JOHN FRYER. REPRINTED FROM THE "CALCUTTA WEEKLY ENGLISHMAN. LONDON: TRUBNER & CO, 57 & 59, LUDGATE HILL. 1S73.

ADVERTISEMENT.

. The accompanying Travels were reprinted some years ago in " The Calcutta Weekly Englishman," under the care of Mr. Talboys Wheeler, and with the approval of the Proprietor, Mr J. O'B. Saunders. At the same time a few Copies were struck oft' for separate publication. By some accident the impression was overlooked, but the Copies are now issued in an octavo form as originally con templated. DE. JOHN FEYEE'S ACCOUNT OF INDIA. DE. JOHN FEYEE'S ACCOUNT OF INDIA.

Chapter I. Tkeats Of Embarking And Passage Till Past St

IAGO. Sir, — For your singular Favour, in seeing me Aboard ship (which might reasonably be supposed the last kind Office to a departing Friend, considering the various Chances of so long a Voyage as well as the Uncertainty of my Return) I must keep to that Promise, whereby you obliged me to give you an account not only of my Being, but of what Occurrences were worth my Animadversion. You may remember, It was the 9th of December, in the Tear of our Lord 1672, when by virtue of an Order from the Honourable East-India Company, I being re ceived on Board the Unity, we took of each other a long Farewel ; the Ship then breaking Ground from Graves- End, to fall down to the Buoy in the Nore. The London, our Admiral, lay expecting our whole East- India Fleet there, which were Ten in Number; to whom his Majesty, Charles II. was pleased to grant Letters of Mart : Which impowered them to wear the King's Jack, DR. JOHN rilYEUB ACCOUNT OF INDIA Ancient and Pennant, and to act as Men of War (the* English and French at this time being at open Defiance against the Dutch.)

When they were altogether, their Commands were to go over the Flats ; which, notwithstanding the Hazard to Ships of their Burthen, was thought securer now than to venture about the King's Channel, where they might be exposed to the Attempts of the Hollanders : By which means, together with the unsteadiness of the Weather, it was the day after Christmas before we arrived at the Downs; where rode a rich and numerous Fleet of Mer chants, with their respective Convoys, designed for their several Places of Traffick, when the Wind should present. Here, as we ended the Old Tear, so we began the New with a desire of prosecuting our intended Voyage : But a South-West Wind prevented our Course, and held us there Three Weeks ; when an Enst Wind made a general delivery and a clear Downs.

Being at Sea, we made easy Sail, that our Ships might have the liberty that Night to single themselves from the Crowd of the other Ships ; notwithstanding which Pro viso, we had a shrewd Suspicion ; for Night hastening on (and in such a swarm of Vessels of greater bulk, not so readily manageable as smaller) we beheld three Lights out of the Poop of a goodly Ship, the same unfortunate signs our Directions bound us to take notice of; which made us conclude the Damage on our side, as indeed it proved by the next Morning-song ; for having cast our Eyes abroad to look what Ships we had in company, running over a great many (that had shrowded themselves under our Protection and of Six Men of War more, Captain Muuday Commander in chief (whereof Two were Fireships) sent for to meet the East-India Fleet at Sancta Helena, for their better Defence homeward-bound, and to prevent their falling into the Enemies Hands, who had lately possessed themselves of that Island) we at length missed VOYAGB OUT. 135 the Massenberg, on whom (it seems) a small Pink falling foul, had carried away her Head and Boltsprit, and tis to be feared has disabled her this Voyage ; we saw her after wards make for Portsmouth.

Off the Land's End we met with Four English Merchant Ships, Two French Men of War their Convoys, laden from Cales, bound for London. In Four Days, from the Downs, we were losing England on our Backs, reckoning the Lizzard the most extreme part South to bear North and By East 14 Leagues ; from whence hereafter we were to fetch our Meridian Dis tance : It lies in the Latitude of 50 deg 10 min. North. Thus relinquishing the British Seas, we make ourselves Possessors of the Western Ocean for a while : ' Till following our Compass more South, we contend with the troublous Wind and tempestuous Waves for some part of the Bay of Biscay, whose Mountain Seas we are to cut through to the Main Atlantick. Whatjnakes these Seas in such a constant Turmoil is imputed to the falling in of the whole Force of the Western Ocean into this Sinus without any Impediment, 'till it recoil against its Shores; so that in the calmest Season here are always high swelling Billows.

About the Latitude of 41 the Men of War, that caran out with us, determining to make the Madera Island, went away more Easterly, and the next day were out of sight. Two days after we espied one Sail to the Leeward under a main Course, steering very doubtfully ; after she had had her full view of us, she made from us too nimble for us to follow ; we supposed her to be either an Algerine Pirate, or a Dutch Privateer. We still directed our Course South, and in Twenty four Hours ran One hun dred and seventeen Miles by our Log-board for some days together, the Weather not allowing us to observe with the Quadrant ; but as soon as we could take the Sun's Altitud3, DR. JOHN FRXJJR's suolM OF INDIA. 136 we found ourselves to be in the Latitude of 36 deg. 2 min. North, Longitude 7 deg. 26 min. West, an hundred Miles in four days more than we judged ourselves to be ; which sufficiently proves the little credit to be given to the for mer way of reckoning.

The following day maintaining the same Course, we past oy the Mouth of the Streights of Gibraltar, one of Her cules's Pillars, the farthest Point South of all Europe. Here we began to drop the rest of our Company, some striking East for the Streights, others West for the Can aries, Virginia, &c. At Noon our Admiral fired a Gun, and hoisted his Ancient, whereby we understood he saw Land, which we thought to be Porto Porto, bearing off us East. An hour more being hardly run, we in like manner made the Maedra Istand, the largest of the whole Atlantick, being South-East some twelve Leagues, too great a distance to take a perfect Landschap, it being only discernible to be Land, and confirmed to be so by this days Observation, which was 33 deg. 17 min. to the Northward of the Equator in Latitude and Longitude from the Lizzard as before, we having neither raised nor depressed it.

Where the Trade winds begin to offer themselves, the Mariner relaxes his anxious care of Sailing, and is at more leisure to Repose ; he not being so often called upon to shift his Course, or hand his Sails : which has yet this incon venience, giving him leave now to fall into those Distem pers Idleness contracts, viz. the Scurvy, and other ill Ha bits ; unless rouzed by an Active Commander, either to Sports, or more usefull Employments: Although the perfect knowledge of these Trade-winds (which are more constant within the Tropicks) are of such importance as to make our Modern Navigators perform that in six months, which took up the Pains and Travels of as many Teares from the first Discoverers, they keeping all along the Shore whereupon they became not only liable to un- APPROACH THE TROPICS. 137 accountable Changes as they met with Land briezes, Head lands, or Contrary Winds, but were many times disappoin ted either to go on, or return, by the several Accidents they encountered thereupon; which these more experien ced and bold Adventurers by standing off to Sea, and study of their Compass by a more accurate Computation of their Way by the Quadrant and Azimuth, and a strict enquiry of the commencing and terminating of these Winds, avoid.

In this short space we have almost out-ran the Northern Winter's Blasts and begin to be sensible of a more vigor ous Clime, whose temperate Warmth adds Spirits to our frozen Limbs : Tet in this forward Spring (for such it seemed to us) we cannot escape some Lashes of that cold Nemesis; for Night being come, she sends a Storm of Rain and Hail with an high and bleak Wind, in which appeared the Sailors Deities, Castor and Pollux, or the some it may be gave light to those Fables, they boding fair Weather to Seamen, though never seen but in Storms, looking like a Candle in a dark Lanthorn, of which there were divers here and there above the Sails and Shrowds, being the ignes fatui of the Watery Element ; by the Por tugals christned Querpo Santos, the Bodies of Saints, which by them are esteemed Ominous.

But I think I am not too positive in relating them to be a Meteor-like sub stance exhaled in the Day, and at Night (for except then, they shew not themselves) kindled by the violent Motion of the Air, fixing themselves to those parts of the Ship that are most attractive : For I can witness they usually spent themselves at the Spindles of the Top-mast-heads, or about the Iron-hoops of the Tard arms, and if any went towards them, they shifted always to some Part of the like Nature. The succeeding Morning had not long withdrawn this black Vail, and brought us tidings of a more serene Day, when we beheld our Frigots that had left us, busking after DR. JOHN FRYUR'S ACCOUNT OF INDIA. 138 us with all the winged speed they could, and about Noon they gained us, keeping on the same Course as we, but missed of their design of touching at the Madera's. Being blessed with a prosperous Gale, in fifteen Days from England we were to the Southward of the Tropical Circle of Cancer, w-hich lies in 23 deg. and £ North, and passeth through Barbary, India, China, and Nova Hispa nia ; we making at Twelve at Noon, Latitude 22 deg 16 min.

Longitude 8 deg. West, when we must be 1 deg. 14 min. South of the Tropick. A Guinea Merchant man bound for the River Gamboa kept us Company hither, but his Voyage requiring a more Easterly Course, was the last Merchant Ship took leave of us. We holding on still South, the frequent Noise of Thun der, the sultry Rains, quiet Seas in respect of what we had before, were assured tokens of our drawing nigher to that Fountain of Heat, the Sun. By reason whereof it was familiar to behold, the sport ful Fishes greedy of their Prey raise whole Flocks of that Scaly Nation. For those whom Nature has placed in the vast Deep, defenceless of themselves, aud innocent to others of a more powerful Greatness, so as many times they become their Prey, she has not altogether left them unprovided ; either out of her abhorrency of Idleness, re solving every thing should labour for its Belly, or else out of a peculiar respect towards every individual Species for their Preservation as well as Production ; furnishing these with Fins of larger size and double use for swifter con veying them under Water, as also for soaring into the Air when they are too closely pursued.

Of these sort we saw good store flying from Bonetos and Albecores, who were hunting them. Some of these flying Fish (for no other Name they have as I can learn) were so put to it, that after often dipping their fishy Wings iu the briny Water (without which genuine Artifice they could not use PILOT FISH AND SHARKS. 139 them) chose rather to make our Ship their Sanctuary, than to yield themselves to the jaws of their devouring Adversaries : By which means you have their more exact, Description, they being as large as a River Perch bedeckt With Silver-spangled Scales, and long Pins as before. Not many days after, two of the lesser Off-spring of the great Deviation, (the Weather being calm, these sort of them else not visible, being of no swift motion) came sailing after us ; our Men as eager of them as they of their Prey, hastned their Engines for to take them ; which no sooner in the Water, but each of them guided by some half a dozen delicately coloured little Fishes, which for their own safeguard perform the Office of Pilots, (they never offering to satisfy their Hunger on them) who lead them to the Baits ; when they turning their Bellies up, seize upon them on their Backs, hook themselves in the Toils, beating the Sea into a Breach, and not without a great many Hands are drawn over the sides of the Ship ; which seen by the poor silly little Fishes (as conscious of their Error) they swim to and again, and hardly forsake the Ship ; but being within Board, the Ship's Company armed with Hatchets presently divide the Spoil.

They are not scaly, and therefore imagined to be a kind of Whale, being finned like them, with a great Fin on their Backs near their Tails, (which dried is used instead of a Slate) of a darkish grey Colour on their Backs, lighter on their Sides, and white under their Bellies ; their Snout on the same Plain with their Mouths, but their Mouth within that a great way ; the cause why they turn their Bellies when they take their Prey. The Mouth of one of them extended, is two Spans wide, armed within with three Tire of sharp pointed Teeth on both Jaws, so piercing that Needles exceed them not, and of such strength that a Leg or an Arm, Bone and all, is but an easy Morsel ; wherefore called Sharks, by the Seamen, on whom they are bold enough to fasten, and dismember if DR. JOHN FRYER'S ACCOUNT OF INDIA. 140 not shuned when they wash themselves : They are of a rank smell, and not good to eat but by stout Stomachs ! of Length they are ten, some times fourteen Feet.

By this time we had got into 17 deg. 19 miu. North Latitude, Longitude 9 deg, 10 min. West, when our Men of War thinking to birth themselves before us at St. Iago, (where our Ships were permitted to refresh, being otherwise tied up by Charter-party not to put in any where unless for absolute necessity) made all the Sail on head they could. Our Commanders were well enough content with their proffer, knowing the danger of many Ships going in there together : The day ensuing plying to the West, we dis covered Beunovista bearing full West ten Leagues, but at Noon were within two Leagues of it. It is one of the Islands of the Gorgades or Cape Verde because situate over against that Promontory on the Land of Negros. They are said to be Nine in Number. Beunovista, quasi good sight, it deserving that Appellation from four Hills, which raising themselves to an Eminency above their Fellows, yield a fair Prospect at a distance ; but approaching nigher it is not unlike the crawling of a Snake, it's various Hills and Vallies fluctuating as it were seem to borrow that riggling Shape, the two remotest Mountains figuring her Crown and Head.

The succeeding day, South-East of us, we saw the Isle of Maijo, another of the Gorgades, plentiful in nothing more than Salt, whither our Traders in that Commodity often send Ships to fetch it, which is brought down to them in Barrows blowed by the Wind they having Sails fitted for that purpose. In two and twenty days from the Lizzard, early in the Morning we were close under St. Iago, another Island of the same Knot ; whose interwoven barren Mountains are as impossibly exprest as Stonehing numbred. Towards ISLAND OF ST. IAUO. 141 the South-West they are very high and burnt ; but steering to loos about the Bay, we found it empty, andthe Men of War missing ; for all that we came to an Anchor about ten a Clock in the Forenoon in the Bay of St. Iago. The Ground was covered with Corral of all sorts, under which it was Sandy of a duskish Colour.

Having discovered three Buoys, our Commander sent his Boat to seize on one, which proved to be the Mark to a special good Anchor of 2400 weight, with a Cable seven Inches Diameter ; the rest of the Fleet shared the other two. The Bay the Ships rode in was smooth Water, the Wind coming from the Shore ; in Figure a Semicircle, in which it might contain four Miles, the weather most Point bearing South-West, and half a Point West, the other Point to which was an Islet, East and by South, and South. Of the Island of St. Iago, one of the Cape Yerde Islands. In the Afternoon I went ashore, which was near two Miles from the Ship, where was a convenient watering place, which emptied its fresh Current into the Salt Sea ; the Beach was sandy, and easy going ashore. Here met us whole Troops of the Natives with their several Wares, some offering us Cocoes, others Oranges and Limes ; some brought Jackanaps's, such green Ones as are commonly seen in England to be sold ; and all at the price of a cleanly Rag, or a Bunch of Ribbons.

Before us in a Valley was a most stately Grove of Cocoes and Oranges (through which ran the Stream our Men filled their Casks with Water) surrounded with a Wall. The first of which Trees, so much celebrated for its use fulness, deserves as much for the pleasure it affords the Sight. It grows with an upright, tall, and slender Body, the Bark of an Ash colour, loricated ; not sending any Branches forth till it come to its chiefest Summit, where it spreads its shady Branches with some resemblance to our Osmond Royal Fern, but more like the Palm ; and DR. JOHN FRYF.lt's ACCOUNT OF INDIA. 142 under these protects its weighty Fruit ; which hang very thick round about the Tree, to which it yields but one Stalk, but that fit to support its ponderousness ; every Moon produces a fresh Harvest both of Fruit and Boughs ; the first being gathered, the others being thrust off when sapless by the young ones : If the Juicy ones be wounded, there distills an heady Liquor, which they preserve in Earthen Pots fitted to receive it, but that spoils their bearing Nuts.

Next to the Stalk it bestows a Calix, not differing (only in bigness, and that it is smoother) from that of our Acorn ; from which proceeds the Rind of a lighter Green under which a fibrous substance presents it self, which might supply them with Utensils, for Roaps and Sails ; beneath which appears a spacious brown Shell, proper for many Necessaries, big enough for a Drinking Cup, a Ladle, and many more ; serving them for the chief part of their Houshold stuff: Enclosed in this is a deli cious Meat, white in Colour, cloathed with a pithy matter, as our Hasle-nuts, and not inferior to ?hem in Taste ; this they chuse for thier ordinary Nourishment. Nor does it afford them a less grateful emulsion, contained in the Nut to the quantity of a Pint, or Pint and half ; in colour like Whey, and of that consistency, but in relish far excelling.

When the Meat of the Nut grows rancid, they express an Oyl serviceable for their Lamps. Thus abundantly has Providence furnished them from this one Root. The figure of the Fruit, take it intire, is oval, and as big as the largest Melons. On the other Fruits it's needless to insist, as Oranges and the like, being planted nearer home, and therefore not such strangers. Having observed enough here, we entred a Door which gave us admittance to a Court in the same Valley, whose party Wall made of Mud and Stone, separated it from the Grove. Here lay at the Foot of the ascending Mountain, in a ISLAND OF ST. IAGO. careless posture, one Company of their Militia, raised on this occasion, having rested their Arms, as Muskets, and Pikes, with their Colours of White Silk, with a Green Cross athwart, and the Arms of Portugal in the midst of it, against the Wall, but Breast high ; which could not have held up the Pikes, had not some adjoining Trees con tributed to their aid.

They saluted us with the civility of the Hat, and Conge ed to the ground ; those of them that walked about, had Javelins in their hands, and long Swords tied to their Backs. Labouring to reach the top of the Mountain, which was very steep, some we met on foot, others mounted on Asses, with Jackanaps's behind them, passed us with no small Grandure and Ceremony of the Cap ; and which was won derful, to see them ride these Creatures over Precipices, only Goats and they could clamber on. At last gaining the highest part, another Wall accosted us, over which a Gate, and upon that a Cross. On the left hand, as soon as we were in, was either a Prison, or a Guard house. Not many Paces from it, ou the same side, a Row of Houses, one Story high thatcht with the Branches of the Cocoe, and Windows with wooden Shutters, but no Casements, built with Mud and Stone as all their Buildings were which I saw ; the insides visible enough, for the biggest of them had not four, yards Front, and half that, for the greater state, was taken up by the Door : Their Furniture is answerable to the splendour of their Habitations ; but because we will not refuse the Courtesy of their Entertainment, see in what a manner they present us with their Viands.

They invite us with an Hubble-bubble (so called from the noise it makes) a long Reed as brown as a Nut with use, inserted the Body of a Cocoe-shell filled with Water, and a nasty Bole just pressing the Water, they ram Tobacco into it uncut, out of which we may suck as long DR. JOHN FRYER'S ACCOUNT OF I\'DI\. as we please, but for any thing else tell us as the Poet did, Vina mihi non sunt Gazctica, Chia, Falerna. Quæqne Serptano palmite miasa bibas. Their common Drink being only Water ; and their Food as plain, being only the Fruits of the Earth. But to keep on our way, which here we found easy and plain ; on the Right stood another Cross, propped with a four-square Pillar raised on steps, and half a Stone's cast from it, a Chappel, not proud enough to brag of any great elegancy for its Architecture (being but the Rural Seat of one of their Black Padres.)

Not much beyond it the Corps de Guard, from whence they supplied their Sen tinels, which were placed in a Military Order here and there : Nearer the Water-side, on the brow of the Preci pice which overlook' the Haven, in a well-appointed place, were planted half a dozen small Pieces of Ordnance, which spake Thanks for our respect paid when we came to an Anchor ; not far from hence another Guard and House regarding the Main, which gave notice to the rest of what Vessels they saw at Sea. And now we began to think of returning, when we met with some had happened to see the glory of the Day ; who told us, our Admiral had sent to the Deputy-Govern our, residing here, to be certified about the Anchors ; who first claimed those Anchors of our Emissaries with the Majesty essential to that Nation he represented (being a White Portugall) for his Master, being slipped in Port ; and then informed them, that they were left there the Afternoon before we came in, by Three great Holland Men of War, who were separated by foulness of Weather, from the Squadron of Admiral Eversdon, who was sent to vex the English Plantations at Virginia : Who at the sight of our Men of War, had put to Sea in great confusion, leaving some of their Crews behind them, who went off in their Shallops, but could not reach their Ships ; keeping ISLAND OF ST. IAGO. 145 therefore the Shore on board, they put in at St. Jago Town, where they now remain .- From whence this Morn by fresh Advice he was assured only six Ships were seen to ply to windward ; which must be our Fleet striving to regain the Island, which is difficult by reason of the Trade winds, it being beside their Commission to pursue them.

Thus being alarm'd to our Ships, that Night we weighed. In the dusk of the Evening came into this Bay a Sattee of Portugal, laden from Madera with Wine, some of which we purchased, but restored not the Anchors. The Country without is rocky and mountainous, the Island but small ; what Towns it has of note, our small stay would not permit the Enquiry. It is said to be pleasant within the Country ; well watered, and furnished with all things necessary for the life of Man ; discovered for the King of Portugal, Anno 1440. Well peopled by the Portugals, and a Colony of their Plantation from Ginea. In respect of the Heavenly Bodies, it lies in North Latitude, 15 deg. 25 min. Longitude from the Lizzard 12 deg. 10 min. West, the length of days altering very little. The People are of a comely Black, their Hair frizled, Tall of stature, cunning and Thievish ; they staring one in the Face, and in the mean time cut a Knot from the Shoulder, or steal an Handkerchief out of the Pocket.

Their Speech is broken Portugal, as also is their Habit, imitating therein the Portugals ; though few of them so well clad as to hide their Nakedness so, but that either Leggs, Shoulders and Back may bee seen, and in some all. If they get an old Hat with a Bunch of Ribbons, two White Sleeves, a Waistband, or a Coat slasht to hang back to shew their Sleeves, or an old Pair of Long Breeches to their Buttocks ; an unsizeable Sword to their Backs, a Javelin in their Hands, without either Hose or Shooes (as if cut out for Sir John Fastaff's Humour) they shall have them strut, and look as big as the greatest Don in Portugal. s DR. JOHN FKYER's ACCOUNT OF INDIA : 146 The Women are not so handsome as the Men, Blubber lipp'd, more corpulent, and shorter ; notorious also for heir Levity. Their Head geer a Clout rowled up like our Water-bearers ; their Backs, and Breasts (which were large, and hanging down) bare, as also to their Wasts, from whence a thin Cloath, in fashion of a petticoat, down to their Feet, which are bare likewise.

Some of the best of them adorn'd with Bracelets about their Arms and Necks, false Jewels in their Ears, with a kind of Vail from their Head to their Knees, with a Close-bodied Coat with Hanging-sleeves. By Religion they are Christians of the Romish Church. Their Governour is from Portugal. Nothing more observable in this little time, but that at Night on Shipboard, we had the sight of De'l Fogo's Flames ; it being an Island of Fire, the Smoak of which is also apparent at Noon-day; which is of the same Batch with the rest, we seeing only these Four Island of the Nine belonging to the Gorgades.

Chapter II. Contains Our Passage From St

IAGO TO JOUANNA, AND RELA- TION OF THAT ISLAND. Thus forsaking these African Islands and being for saken of all but our own fleet, with a brisk gale we gave our Ship's head to the Eastward of the South ; whereby we came nearer to the Coast of Africa ; the Northern Monsoons (if I may so say being the Name imposed by the first Observers, i. e. Motiones) lasting hither ; they (springing from the pressure of the Winter's Snow, Clouds or Vapours lodged on the Artie Mountains, and now beginning to be dissolved) leave us to struggle with those moving with the Sun, between the Tropicks East and West, as those without do North and South, mostly or collaterally to those Cardinal Points. And therefore we are forced to steer more Easterly, either to fetch a Wind to cross the Æquator, or gain a Side wind from the constant Ones to carry us to Brasil.

For which cause those Ships bound for St. Helen's from Europe, must come into the Latitude of 28 deg. South, and sometimes to the Cape of Good Hope, before they can bend their Course thither, though in a direct Line it would cut off three quarters of the way. When we were in four degrees of the Line, and Longitude from St. Iago 7 deg. 22 min. East, (renewing thence our Meridian) we became subject to the most parching Heat of the Torrid Zone ; whose Effects were so much the more outragious, by as much as the Winds shrank upon us from off the Coast of Ginea (which we DR. JOU.V FRYER'S ACCOUNT OF INDIA s 148 drew nigh to) and had left us at a stand, the usual Treatment hereabouts, imputed to the scarcity of Moun tains on thatvast Tract of ground: Insomuch, that we lay wholly at the mercy of the two unruly Elements, Fire and Water; the one assailing us with flashy Light nings, and horrid Noises, breaking forth the Airy Region ; the other pouring on us whole Streams of unwholsome and dangerous Flouds, when they fall in Spouts, (which are frequent here : ) Nay the kindest and the softest downfal on our Bodies is productive of Vermin, such as Flies, and Maggots, if our Cloaths be not quickly dried and shifted ; (these Seasons the Seamen term the Tornados.)