The Island of the Saints: a pilgrimage through Ireland

Preface

. In accordance with a promise I made the author during his stay in London last summer, I bring before English readers Julius Eodenberg's views about men and manners in that incomprehensible countiy, Ireland. My principal reason for dohig so is, that although so many works have aheady appeared about the Land of the Saints, the majority have had the defect of being vvritten by Englishmen ; and it is as fair to accept then* verdict as it Avould be to judge of Italy from an Austrian point of view. Hence I considered that the statements of an unprejudiced foreigner would be accepted as, at any rate, teUing the truth about the present state of Ireland. Dr. Bodenberg has peculiar qualifications for the task he has voluntarily assumed : he speaks and understands Enghsh as well as most men, and he has prepared him self for this Avork by a lengthened residence in London, and by a summer spent in Wales. Before proceeding to

PREFACE.

. Ireland, he made careful studies of his terrain from books and old chronicles, and, it wdl be seen, has con fined his attention prmcipaUy to the people, leaving the show places of Leland to be learned from the Handbook. In arranging this volume for the press, I have care fully avoided repetition of those legends — save when absolutely necessary — which, though new to Dr. Boden berg's German readers, were f amiliar to us, whde I have retained everything whicli spoke for and against the Lish people. The author may be accused of harsh judgment in some cases, but from the intimacy on whicli I stand with him, I am ready to vouch for Ids impartiality and truthfulness. But, in going so far, I beg to render him responsible for all his senthnents : I in no way wish to endorse them, but prefer to confine myself to the modest office of translator. Lascelles Wraxall. The Hut, Guildford, December, 1S60. CONTENTS.

Chapter I. Page Landing In Dublin

— COLLEGE-GREEN — AV1LLIAM OF ORANGE — THOMAS MOORE — SACKVILLE-STREET— THE BOTANIC GARDENS — TICKELL'S HOUSE — STELLA — THE PHŒNIX — THE WELLINGTON TESTIMONIAL — IRISH SIGNBOARDS — HOAVTH REGATTA — THE VIL- LAGE INN — NATIONAL DANCES 1

Chapter II. An Old Friend

— TRINITY COLLEGE — THE LIBRARY — BRIAN BOROO's HARP — ROSY-FINGERED PEGGY — BERLIN PANCAKES — PETTICOAT- LANE — MONSTER SHOPS — ST. PATRICK'S CATHEDRAL — SWIFT'S GRAVE — IRISH BEGGARS — A DRIVER'S COSTUME — THE LIBERTIES —DONNYBROOK FAIR— WINNING THE GARTERS— A BRAVE IRISH- MAN — ENGLISH VIEWS OF IRELAND— ONLY ONE HALFPENNY — SINGING AND FIGHTING — RETURN TO TRINITY — PADDY — OLIVER GOLDSMITH'S ROOM 16 CHAPTER HI. WICKLOW — IRISH SCENERY — THE VILLAGE MAIDEN— THE SUGAR- LOAVES — THE DESERTED VILLAGE — THE CABIN — HEDGE SCHOOLS — THE PENAL CODE — THE DEVIL'S GLEN — THE FAIRIES — THE BEALTATNE — THE SANCTUARY — ANNAMOE— IRISH HOSPITALITY — ARRIVAL AT GLENDALOUGH X CONTENTS.

Chapter IV. Page Glendalough

— NEW ACQUAINTANCES — TALKING GERMAN— MILES DOYLE — THE ENGLISH WAITER— THE UPPER LAKE— THE " PIC- TURESQUE TOURIST"— THE HORSE-STEALER — ST. KEVIN'S BED — THE SEVEN CHURCHES— A FAIRY CUP — FINN-MAC-CUL— THE CA- THEDRAL— PRAY FOR DIARMAIT— THE ROUND TOAVER— THE IVY CHURCH 59

Chapter V

good-by to glendalough — the clara valley— the hill of Finn's wives — rathdrum — potheen — the vale of avoca — the meeting of the waters — the motty-stone — irish patterns — wooden-bridge — a song — night scenes — a game with shillelahs —minnie — a protector — an irish row — pleasant days and happy memories 83

Chapter VI. The Lakes Of Killarney

— THE PARADISE OF IRELAND — THE TORC- VIEW HOTEL — A PLEASANT WELCOME— THE WEATHER — AN EVEN- ING STROLL— IRISH SONGS — THADY THE DRIVER— KILLARNEY TOWN— THE IRISH CHARACTER — THE ATLANTIC TELEGRAPH— THE RUINS OF AGHADOE — THE CATHEDRAL— THE UNHONOURED DEAD — THE CHAMBER OF DEATH — ANTIQUE SCULPTURE — THE SICK BOY 100

Chapter VII. Beaufort-bridge

— OLD SALLY— KATE KEARNEY — THE GAP OF DUNLOE — THE BLACK LAKE — THE ARTILLERYMAN — A LOVvELY WALK — KATHLEEN O'MORE — AN OLD FRIEND — THE KNIGHT OF DUNLOE— WAKING THE ECHOES — THE UPPER LAKE— LORD BRAN- DON'S COTTAGE— AN OLD BACHELOR — THE BOAT — THE ARBUTUS — THE LAKE ISLANDS — HAPPY JACK — THE LAST ROSE OF SUMMER — AN ACCIDENT 118

Chapter VIII

back to torc-view— fiddler mick— the cabin— a hearty hater — jack lowney at home — the myrtle of killarney — the Dane's fort — an irish cabin — the good people — a fairy tale — druidic remains — lissyviggin wood — the fairy palace— the wet-nurse— the druidic temple— poor larry— a true-hearted girl CONTENTS. XI

Chapter IX. Page Tiiady The Driver

— THE GOOD PEOPLE ON THEIR TRAVELS — THE CAVE OF DUNLOE — KILLARNEY TOWN — MR. HERBERT'S PARK — MUCKROSS ABBEY — m'CARTHY MORE — GLENA BAY — THE MU- THERIN ROE — INNISFALLEN — THE HERMIT — ROSS ISLAND — O'DONOGHTTE's CASTLE — SINKING GROUND — THE WAKE — UL- LALUH— FAREWELL TO KILLARNEY — THE FUNERAL . . . 164

Chapter X

MALLOW— AN IRISH PRIEST— THE NATIVE LANGUAGE — LIMERICK — ENGLISH TOWN — IRISH TOWN — STREET LIFE — LIMERICK GLOVES— POPULAB. BALLADS — CAHILL AND MALONE — THE HAY- MABKET— NEWTOWN PERRY — THE CASTLE— THE CORPORAL— SARSFIELD— THE WHISKY STORE— OUR FRIENDS THE FRENCH— THE ARTICLES OF THE TREATY — IRISH BRAVERY — THE ENGLISH RECRUITING-SERGEANT— GOD SAVE THE QUEEN ! . . . 190

CHAPTER XL THE ROYAL

HOTEL— GEORGE-STREET — THE ROYAL ALBERT SALOON — THE LIMERICK PRIMA DONNA — BONNIE DUNDEE — AN IRISH SUNDAY— LIMERICK LASSES— A BRANCH-LINE— CASTLE CONNELL — THE CASTLE OF THE O'BRIENS — THE GENIUS OF IRELAND — MISS O'KEANE— THE RAPIDS— THE CHAPEL .... 216

Chapter XII. The Conveyance

— FIRST CLASS— BOUND FOR THE WEST— AN IRISH BUILDER— KILLALOE— HIS EMINENCE — BRIAN BOROO — INISH KALTRA— ST. PATRICK'S PURGATORY — PORTUMNA — CLONMAC- NOISE— M'DERMOTT'S CHURCH— ST. KIARAN'S STONE — ATHLONE — THE COMFORTS OF AN IRISH INN — THE POSTMASTER . . 230 CHAPTER XHI. ARRIVAL IN GALWAY— TRACES OF THE SPANIARDS — MIXTURE OF BLOOD— THE SPANISH PARADE— THE CLADDAGH WOMEN— A PECU- LIAR RACE— SUPERSTITIONS — LEGENDS — CLADDAGH COURTING FUNERAL CUSTOMS — IRISH PIGS— THE GREAT BALL— THE OLD FAMILIES — MR. CARDEN — MISS O'KEANE— WILD KATHLEEN- GREEN AND ORANGE 2*12 CONTENTS.

Chapter XIV. Page Bianconi's Cars

— THE HORSE-DEALERS — OUGHTERARD— CONNA- MARA CABINS— RECESS HOTEL — CLIFDEN— THE FAIR— MEN AND ANIMALS — LETTERFRACK — WILD KITTY — PETER CONNELLAN — DIAMOND HILL — DARBY THE PIPER — THE PEASANT WEDDING — QUAINT CUSTOMS— THE MARRIAGE — LOUGHY FADAGHAN — THE FIRST KISS— THE RACE FOR THE BOTTLE — THE RINCAFADA — THROWING THE STOCKING 263

Chapter XV

Joyce's land— lenane — the inn — across the killery — the boatman's song — delphi — an accident — a night in a cabin —the return — escape from purgatory — madame hortense— the sieur de framboisie — errie valley — westport — THE PORT 293