Scenes and Characteristics of Hindostan, with sketches of Anglo-Indian society

Introduction

. The popularity obtained both in England and in India by a series of papers appearing in the Asiatic Journal, has led to their republication in a separate form. Our territories in the Eastern world, though long and unaccountably neglected by persons of enquiring minds, are beginning to excite a very considerable degree of interest and attention, and the author may therefore hope that a work will be generally acceptable which affords information upon the subject of Native and Anglo-Indian Society. The contents of the following volumes, consisting of the author's recollections of scenes and incidents occur ing during her travels in India, are necessarily of a very desultory nature, but as it would have been impossible, in recasting and remodelling the whole, to preserve the freshness of the first impression, it was thought advisable to limit the revision to a few trifling additions and curtailments.

" Many and excellent works have lately come under our notice illustrative of India, ancient and modern ; but we do not know when our attention has been more forcibly attracted than by a series of sketches published by Miss Roberts in that excellent miscellany the Asiatic Journal. Light, animated, and graphic, they describe manners and people with spirit, and scenery with a tone of poetical feel ing which alone can do justice to the magnificence of the Eastern World. We hope she will be induced to collect them in a volume, and a delightful one it will be."' Calcutta Literary Gazette. Page I CONTENTS. OF VOL. I.

Chapter I

Calcutta. — Champaul Ghaut. — Architecture Mixture of buildings. — Circars. — Servants Household furniture. — Mode of living. — Chowringee circular road. — Black Town. — Population. — Public drives

Chapter II

Mistaken notions respecting Anglo-Indian suitors. — Old civilians. — Young writers. — Military beaux. — Wedding parties.— Effects of climate on wearing apparel. — Bridal preparations. — Boxwallahs. — Style of dress. — Youthful couples, — Chances of domestic happiness. — Miseries of spinsterhood. — Alienation of parents and children. — Unromantic marriages. — Three CONTENTS. X Page classes of spinsters. — Orphan school at Kidder pore. — Dark beauties. — Armenian and Portuguese families 1"

Chapter III

The Mofussil. — Cawnpore. — The garrison. — State of society. — Description of bungalows. — Interiors. — Mirzapore carpets. — Gardens. — Public buildings. — Equipages. — The course. — Twilight scenes. — Want of churches. — Dramatic entertainments. — Miseries of dancing. — Camps. — Grand field days. — Public breakfasts. — Races. Dearth of books. — Climate. — Shops and manufactures. — Environs. — Antiquarian suppositions 45

Chapter IV

Drawbacks to feminine industry. — Scandal. — Male gossips. — Their criticisms. — Unsociability of the ladies. — Propriety of conduct. — Tailors. — Domestic establishment. — Offices of the different servants. — Manner of passing the day. — Household cares — Necessity for continual attention to cleanliness. — Masters and servants. — Bad qualities of ayahs. — Cooks and CONTENTS. XI Page cookery. — Economy of the table Burra khanas. — Petticoated decanters. — Indian luxuries. — Immutability of custom. — Mental lan guor — Advantages of a more rapid communication with Europe. — Exciting nature of Indian sports 73

Chapter V

Beauty of Berhampore. — Elegance of the buildings. — Causes of unhealthiness. — Changes of climate. — Cholera. — Method of courtship at the Lower Orphan School. — King's troops. — King's officers. — Jealousy of civilians. — Method of visiting. — Conduct of the new resident. — Military music — Silk manufactory. — Works in ivory. — Difficulty of procuring Indian goods. — Printed muslins. — Dolls of clay. — Moorshedabad. — Moosulman hospitality. — Character of the late Nawab. — Water parties. — Festival of the Bhearer. — Rajmhal. — Zoological inhabitants. — Rhinoceros at Barrackpore. — Abolition of the menagerie. — The Yak. — Manufacture of ice CONTENTS. Page

Chapter VI

Military movements. — Sale or hire of bungalows. — Public auctions. — Destructive influence of the climate. — Attendance at sales. — Preparations for a march. — Transport of goods. — Odd appearance of the travelling party. — Numbers of followers. — Formation of an encampment. — Singular appearance of a canvas city. — Comfort of good servants. — Sporting excursions. — Camp regulations. — Doolies for the sick. — Disagreeable walk. — Camp dinners. — Annoyances sustained by young officers. — Halting days.— Precautions against rain. — Misery of bad weather in camp. — Disagreeables occasioned by piercing winds. — March performed by two ladies. — First day's encampment. — Mode of living. — Rapid manner of getting on. — Curious night scene. — Courtesy of the natives. — Hunting excursions. — Charms of forest life. — Intercourse with the natives. — Desolation of the Sunder bunds. — Tigers at Rajmhal 135

Chapter VII

Patna. — Its Gothic architecture. — Anecdote of Clive. — Massacre of Europeans. — Advantages CONTENTS. XIII Page 170 of settlers. — Lithographic press. — Military can tonment at Dinapore. — Feminine caprice. — Difference of appearance in the dry and rainy seasons in India. — Moosulman cemetery. — Ce lebration of Mohurrum. — Wealth of the natives. — Trade of Patna. — Products of the country. — Narrow and crowded state of the streets. — Aspect of the houses. — Desolation of the Christian burial-ground. — Evening scenes. — Ungraciousness of the English .character. — The fair at Hadgeepore. — Luxurious accommodations. — Picturesque scene. — Anecdote of a tornado. — Deegah Farm. — Interesting pigs. — Stock of the warehouses. — Products of the farm. — Hospitality of the owner. — Establish ment of provisioners. — Mr. Dickson's vine yards. — Cultivation of the vine. — Native ingenuity. — Want of practical knowledge in Eu ropean farmers

Chapter VIII

Different methods of travelling. — The dak or post. — A palanquin. — Simplicity of the preparations for a dak journey. — Number of attendants. — Length of the stages. — Salutations of the bearers, — Inconvenience in hot weather. — CONTENTS. Page Civility of the natives. — Misconduct of Euro peans Difficulty of procuring substitutes for bearers. — Value of a good reputation. — Best season for travelling. — Scenery. — Difference in the rains Ferry boats. — Jheels. — Account of crossing on a raft Night scenery contrasted with that of day. — Great beauty of the nights in India. — Tattees to palanquins. — Anecdotes of tigers 202

Chapter IX

Situation of Benares. — Hindoo and Musselmannee buildings. — Grotesque magnificence of the city. — Multitude of boats at the Ghauts. — Mr. Daniell's Sketches. — Secrole. — Garrison. — Environs. — Killing beef. — Suburbs. — Number of animals in the streets. — Sale of flowers at the pagodas. — Appearance of the shops. — -Artizans at work. — Learning. — Anecdote of a secretary of the college. — The observatory. — The Minarets. — View of the city. — Plan of the houses. — Wealth of the inhabitants. — Influx of strangers. — Sepoys. — Miserable condition of Hindoo widows — Commerce of Benares. — Splendour of native dress.— Goldsmiths' work. — Hindoo festivals. — Nautch girls. — Hospita- CONTENTS. XV Page lity of the Rajah. — The theatre. — The duwal lee. — Toys. — Quarrels of rival sects. — Christian church 224

Chapter X

State of the river in the rains — Different boats. — Description of the budgerow. — Manner of living on board. — Prejudices of the boatmen. — Aspect of the river. — Ghauts. — Variety of landscape. — Evening scenes.— Native huts. — Night on the Ganges. — River storms. — Sticking on sandbanks.— North-westers.— Wrecks of boats. — Contrary winds. — Peer Pointee. — Attendance of tigers at the tombs. — Native partiality for the bazaar. — Products of village markets. — Anglo-Indian hospitality 261