The Lord's Land: a narrative of travels in Sinai ... and Palestine, etc

Front matter

TOWER OF DAVID. '.< T A NARRATIVE OF TRAVELS IN SINAI, ARABIA PETRÆA, AND PALESTINE FROM THE RED SEA TO THE ENTERING IN OF HAMATH. BY HENRY B. RIDGAWAY, D.D. They shall not dwell in the LORD'S LAND— Hosea ix, 8. The Land is MINE —Lev. xvi, 23. NEW YORK: NELSON & PHILLIPS, 805 BROADWAY. 1876. Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1876, by NELSON & PHILLIPS, in the Office of the Librarian of Congress at Washington.

Introduction

. THE veneration which is felt in the hearts of all Christians for the soil which was pressed by the feet of patriarchs, prophets, and apostles, and above all, by the feet of Jesus himself, must always lend a certain charm to every line of pen or pencil which helps to make it more real to the mind. As a subject of description, in the various ways which the tastes of different observers may lead them to adopt, whether of scientific exactness or cursory delineation, it can never be exhausted, because the persons and events with which it is connected are closely united with the undying faith of myriads of mankind. Far beyond the interest which exploration may impart by shedding new light, through special dis coveries, upon the past and present condition of the country, is the deeper underlying sentiment of love for the Land itself.

This it is with many that makes the desire to see it, to touch it, the dream of a life-time, and imparts to the plainest narrative a fascination which can only be explained by the unfailing freshness of the great themes of which the Bible treats. But, besides this sentiment, it is clear that the last few years have been marked by an increasing desire in a

INTRODUCTION.

. VI large class of readers to understand more thoroughly the Land of the Bible in order properly to understand the Bible. The methods of study now pursued are leading to a closer investigation of the historical portions of the holy Scriptures. With a. less strictly theological spirit, but with no less reverence for truth, the disposition is to look at the doctrines of the Scriptures as they stand related to the occurrences, persons, and sayings with which they are associated. It is felt that, to interpret the facts in which divine revelation centers, they must be studied in the light of their physical, historical, social, and religious surroundings. In offering the present volume to the public my wish is to minister to a devout feeling ; to answer, in some degree, the growing demand for information ; and at the same time to further stimulate an intellectual awakening which I believe to be so entirely wholesome.

As the traveler in the Land finds the Bible the best guide book for his direction, so a book containing a faithful account of the Land may prove the best commentary upon the Bible. The tour which I made, embracing, as it did, the Desert of the Exodus, Arabia Petrea, and Palestine proper, inclusive of the land of Moab, has enabled me to embody in a single book a completeness of information touching these several districts which I think no other single work contains. While I have availed myself of the researches of

INTRODUCTION.

. VII other writers, even to those contained in the latest peri odical publications, I have in the main sought to give in a perspicuous and attractive form the results of my per sonal observations. The book is designed for the gen eral reader ; hence, as far as possible, I have avoided technical phrases, and sought to enliven the narrative with incidents of travel by the way. I may indulge the hope, however, that the more scholarly will not find these pages unworthy of their perusal. The necessity of covering so much ground in a limited compass will explain the absence of that fullness of detail which all the re quirements of such would suggest. I am the more encouraged to ask attention for these pages because of the typographical and artistic excellence with which they are executed and illustrated.

The engravings are from original photographs and sketches ; drawn on wopd by such artists as Moran, Woodward, Gibson, Warren, and Perkins, under the supervision of Mr. J. D. Felter. The accompanying maps and diagrams, while sub stantially correct, are designed rather as guides for reading than for minute scientific study. For an exact and full map of the route described, and of the whole country, I commend the one which is in course of publication by Messrs. Strong and Ward of our party. It promises to be a standard map, and will probably not be superseded for popular and critical study until the results of the English and American Exploration Societies are made

INTRODUCTION.

. VIII public. The engineering corps of these two societies have already triangulated about three thousand square miles west and east of the Jordan, and are pursuing their work with commendable dispatch and thorough ness ; but it must be many years before the task is iully completed. If my readers derive from the scenes which I have here described a tithe of the pleasure which they afforded me in the seeing, they will be highly gratified, and I am ply rewarded. I trust they will be brought to share the impression which, above all others, was left on my mind at the end of my journey — the marvelous accuracy of divine revelation as confirmed by the present condition of the Land where it was given. H. B. Ridgaway. May, 1876. CONTENTS OF CHAPTERS.

Chapter I

Its supply the Multiplication of a Natural Product —Varied color of the Mountains FROM CAIRO TO THE DESERT. — Nagb Buderah — The Valley of Writing — Character of the Inscriptions — Exces sive Thirst of the Desert — Wady Feiran — The Gem of the Desert — Alone in the Leaving Cairo — Main object in visiting the East — Our party, of whom composed — Dr. Strong the acknowledged Head — Pro visions for our Caravan — A Scene in break- Desert — Temper of the Camel — Mount Serbal — Not Mount Sinai — Head of ing Camp — Towarah Bedawin — Their Dress and Government — Home Feeling and Religion of the Bedawin — The Town and Harbor of Suez — Suez Canal — Mount- Wady Feiran — Wady el Watiyeh — Reph idim — A Sunday near Mount Sinai — A Bedawy House Page 53 ing the Camel and First Ride — Arrival at the Wells of Moses — The circumstantial accuracy of the account of Israel's leaving Egypt in the Book of Exodus — Probable location of Goshen — Its Position conceded, other difficulties lessen — Route of the Is raelites — Dr. Brugsch's Theory impossible — Crossing of the Red Sea, not far, probably, from the present site of the town of

Chapter III. Mt

SINAI AND ADJACENT POINTS. Nagb Hawa, the Windy Pass — Plain er Rahah — First sight of Mount Sinai — Arri val at the Convent — Its History — The Church of the Convent — Chapel of the Burning Bush — Crypt of the Convent — The Garden — The ascent of Jebel Musa — Chapel of Elijah and Elisha — The Summit of Jebel Musa — The dark, hard, and stem Appearance of the Rocks — Ascent of Ras Sufsafeh — The true Sinai where the Law Suez — The Deliverance Page 13

CHAPTER II. IN THE DESERT OF S-INAI.

'Ayun Musa — Start from 'Ayun Musa — Domesticity of our Camp Life — Wady Gharandel — Elim — Pharaoh's Bath — Ras Abu Zenimeh — A Bath in the Red Sea — A Sunset — Gathering Shells — El Markha, the Wilderness of Sin — The Second great Miracle — The Manna of the Desert — was given — The solemnity of the spot — Jethro's Road — Hill of the Golden Calf — The Rock which Moses smote in Horeb — Convent of the Forty Martyrs — Return to Camp — Library of the Convent — Codex Sinailicus CONTENTS 2 pute with the Alawin— Howadji conquered —A Fertile Plain— An Imposing Caravan — An Ancient Aqueduct — A Tumble from a Camel— Old Woman's Toe— Easter Sun day — El Sasies, a Grand Panorama — View from the East overlooking Petra — Profile of Mount Hor— Jebel Wady Musa — Arri-

Chapter IV. From Sinai To Akabah

Snow-storm at Mount Sinai — Driven from our Tents — The Mountains at Night — Monks at Breakfast — Unwillingness of Arabs to Travel through Snow — Leaving the Convent — The usual Quarrel among the Bedawin — The Work accomplished by Moses at Mount Sinai — The Tabernacle — Temple of Edfoo — The Order of Israel's leaving Mount Sinai — Abu Suweirah — Wady Sa'al — The Acacia or Shetah-tree — Kibroth-hattaavah — Mr. Palmer's Discovval at Wady Sik Page 125

CHAPTER VII. WADY MUSA

— PETRA. Passage through the Sik — Alone amid the Varied and Romantic Scenery — The Kuz neh — Rock-hewn Amphitheater — Tombs — Steps in the Solid Rock — Ed Deir — Grasses and Oleanders — Kusr Fa'ron — Wretched Character of the Natives — Our Pet Sheep stolen — Gate-way of the Sik — An Arch, probably, for the Support of an Aqueduct — A Full Description of the Kuz neh — The History of the Successive Races written in the Different Orders of the Exery of a supposed Ancient Camp — -Habits of the Quail — Wonderful Sandstone For mation — 'Ain Hudhera, Hazeroth — Pres ent Appearance — -Wadies Ghazaleh, Hudhera, and Weter Page 85

Chapter V. The Gulf Of Akabah

Wadies Weter and el 'Ain — A Bedawy Camp Scene — Morning Walk through Wady el 'Ain— The Gulf of Akabah— First Glimpse of it — Mong the Sea-shore — Visit from the Natives — Myriads of Shells and Shell-fish — Island of Kureizeh — Akabah — The Villagers— The Fort at Akabah— Elath — Ezion-geber — Mounds of Earth — The utter desolation which now Obtains — Waiting for Mohammet, the great Sheik of the Alawin Nation — Pleasant Hours at Akabah — Our Dragoman receiving the Sheiks — Sheiks Mohammet and Arar. 104 cavations — The City of Petra — Where it stood — The Desolation which now Reigns — The Last Look at Petra — Arar's De ceit — Ascending Mount Hor — Tomb of Aaron — View from Mount Hor — Death of Aaron — A Bedawin Encampment — Hard Bread 139

CHAPTER VIII. FROM WADY ARABAH TO HEBRON.

Salem, my Boy, in a Scrape — Description of the Arabah — The Spies sent from Kadesh — 'Ain Weibeh — Kadesh-barnea — Antiq uity as a Camping Ground — A Noisy Night — The Pass Sufah — Zephath — A Hard Climb over the Pass — Wady Teraifeh — Digging for Water — Another Quarrel with our Bedawin — A Detour to Ar'arah, An cient Aroer — A Patriarchal Scene — Flocks of Storks— Tell Arad— First Sight of He-

Chapter VI. Wady El I'thm

— THE ROUTE TO PETRA. Wady Arabah — Probable Route of Israel around Edom — Jebel Barghir, Dr. Beke's Mount Sinai — Plain of Humeiyumeh — Dis- CONTENTS 3 bron— Kurmul— Tell Zif— Arrival at He bron — Camp near the Quarantine — Abra ham's Oak — A Jew as Guide — Valley of Eshcol — Its Grape-vines — Quarrel between a Mohammedan and Jew Page 160

CHAPTER XI. JERUSALEM.

The two Thoughts when the City is first entered: its Sanctity, and its Antiquity — ■ History of Jerusalem — Geographical Posi-

CHAPTER IX.

tion — Topography of the City — The Walls — Quarries under the City — The North HEBRON. Wall — Herod's Gate — Grotto of Jeremiah —Valley of Jehoshaphat— East "Wall— St. The Bazaar — Cave of Machpelah — Fanaticism of the Mohammedans near its En- Stephen's Gate — Pool of the Tribes — Gold en Gate — South-east Angle of the Wall — The Ancient Temple Wall discovered Eighty Feet below the Present Surface of the Ground — Direction of the Southern trance — Tombs of the Patriarchs — Dean Stanley's Account of the Visit of the Prince of Wales — Patriarchal Shrines — Jacob probably buried here — An Arab School — The Great Pool — Abraham's Residence at Wall — Course of the South and West Wall — Pool of Bethesda — An Ancient Aque- Mamre — Hebron the Second Oldest existing City of the World — Visit of Mohammet, our Dragoman when on the Nile, with Letduct discovered by Mr. Schick leading to it — Arch of Ecce Homo — The Barracks — Tower of Antonia — Dora's Pictures — ters from Jerusalem 178

CHAPTER X.

Via Dolorosa Page 215 HEBRON TO JERUSALEM.

CHAPTER XII.

Parting with our Alawin Friends — JERUSALEM — THE HOLY SEPULCHRE.

"Backsheesh, howadji," to the last — Arri val of Horses and Mules — Jedur, Gedor — Solomon's Pools — The Springs of Supply — Wady el Burak— Urtas, Etham — Val ley of Solomon's Gardens — Bethlehem, its First Appearance and Entrance — Shrine of Jesus's Nativity — Feelings over the Spot where Jesus was Born — Tomb of St. Je rome — Basilica, or Church of the Nativity —Cave of the Milk— Valley of the Shep herds — Trinkets manufactured at Bethle- First Feeling one of Disappointment at the Location — The Church of the Holy Sepulchre — Calvary — Position of the North Wall in the Time of Christ — An cient Remains and Rock Soundings — Ty ropœon Valley, its Course — Direction of Second North Wall — Opinions of Robinson and Fergusson — The Holy Sepulchre reclaimed — The Christians Sixty-three Years at Pella — Historic Testimonies concerning the Cave : The Bordeaux Pilgrim, Euse bius, William of Tyre, St. Cyril, Daniel — Ritter on the Site of the Holy Sepulchre — The Appearance of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre — The Holy Sepulchre itself — Chapel of the Angel — Chapels of the Church of Holy Sepulchre — The Greek Chapel the Principal — Chapel of St. Hehem — Our Muleteers arrested — David's Well — Cave of Adullam, where located — Rachel's Burial Place — Argument for the Correctness of the Traditional Site of the Inn at Bethlehem — Bethlehem, Past and Present — Convent of Mar Elias — First Im pressions of Jerusalem — Arrival in the City CONTENTS. of the Ascension — Impossible to Deter mine the Precise Spot— Church of the Pa ter Noster — The Jews' Grave-yard — Ride tc Hill Scopus— The True Scopus— Tombs of the Kings— Tomb of Helena— Site of Old Wall of Agrippa— Ash Heap— The Russian Possessions — The new Russian lena — Calvary — Chapel of the Elevation — The Greek Fire — -Mrs. Ridgaway an Eye witness of the Ceremony — Pilgrims gathered from all Nations — The Tumult of the immense Crowd — Turkish Soldiers keep ing Order — The Greek Chapel blazing with Light — An acknowledged Fraud — The Muristan — Excavations at Jerusalem — The Knights of St. John — Mediterrane an Hotel and its Guests Page 235 Church Page 292

CHAPTER XV. JERUSALEM

— TEMPLE WALL — ZION.

CHAPTER XIII.

Jerusalem Jew — Jews' Wailing Place — JERUSALEM — EL HARAM ES SHEREIF. Visit to el Haram es Shereif — Names of Wilson's Arch — An Ancient concealed Gate-way — The Haram Wall — Robinson's Arch — An Arab's Watermelon Patch — The Cactus — Zion plowed as a Field — David's kingly Home — English Cemetery — Excavations on Mount Zion — Ancient the Gates — Dome of the Rock — Mosque of Omar — Mouut Moriah — Caliph Omar Discovers the Site of the Temple — First Mosque probably a Wooden One — Interior of the Mosque of Omar — The Sacred Rock — Well of Spirits in the Cave of the Rock — Mosque el Aksa — Minbar Omar — Mosque of Jesus — Solomon's Stables — Top of the East Wall — Interior of the Golden Gate — Towers discovered — The Tomb of David — A Description by Benjamin of Tudela — Curious Jewish Tradition — The Cœnacu lu?n — The American Burial Ground — Zion Gate — Lepers' Quarter — Armenian Quar ter and its Buildings — The Citadel — Tower of David — Underground Passage to the Citadel — Our Cavass attacked by a Turkish Soldier — Jewish Synagogue and Service — The Jews of Jerusalem — A Jew ish Marriage — Appearance of the Bride and Bridegroom — The Music — The Re freshments — Not a Love Match — English Solomon's and Herod's Porches — Christ in the Temple — Best View of the Great Mosque from the East — Probable Site of the Tower of Antonia — A Last Look at the Mosque 269

CHAPTER XIV. CIRCUIT AROUND JERUSALEM.

Church at Jerusalem — Bishop Gobat — Dr. Howadji selecting Horses for the Tour of Palestine — First Ride around Jerusalem — Valley of Hinnom — En-Rogel — Pool of Siloam — Silwan — Fountain of the Virgin — Source and Course of its Water — Garden of Gethsemane — The Old Olives of the Garden — Tomb and Chapel of the Virgin —The Ride to the Summit of Olivet— A large Carob-tree — View from the Mount of Olives — Church of the Ascension — Place Chaplain 318

CHAPTER XVI. THE VALLEY OF THE JORDAN.

Change of Plan — Starting for the Jordan — Bethany — House of Simon the Leper — House of Martha and Mary — Tomb of Lazarus — Haunt for Robbers — First View of the Plain of Jericho — Mrs. Ridgaway's CONTENTS. 5 Horse lies down in Brook Cherith — Site of Virginia and the Genesee Region of New York — Maneuvers of the Bedawin — of Ancient Jericho — Dance of the Bedawin — The Mountains of Moab — Pilgrimages to Neby Musa — Kasr Hajla — 'Ain Hajla — ■ Jordan, Traditional Site of the Crossing — Possible Place of Israel's Crossing — Of Elijah and Elisha's — Bathing in the Sacred Waters — The Site of Bethabara — Narrow Their Soldierly Qualities— The Search for Mount Pisgah — The View from Mount Pisgah — Professor Paine on the Identifica tion of Pisgah — "Before Nebo" — Balak's and Balaam's Pursuit — Moses on Pisgah — ■ His Burial Place — Moses's Character — Escape from Injury — Tell Jiljal, the Site of Gilgal — Jericho of Herod the Great — Quarantania, Mount of Temptation — Part ing with Dr. Vail and the Ladies — 'Ain Duk — 'Ain el Fusail — Fertility of the Val ley of the Jordan — A Sick Day — Kurn Surtabeh, Altar of Ed — Wady el Ferah — Damieh, Ford of the Jordan — Current of Parting with Haza, our Ad wan Guide — The Beni-Sawkis— Goblan's Treachery — Zedam, Son of Fendel Fize — Progress Ar rested by the Hamidehs — Zedam's Threat — Craft of the Bedawin Page 386

CHAPTER XIX.

MACHÆRUS — THE LAND OF MOAB. the River at this Point Page 344 Wady Zurka-Ma'in — Jebel Attarus — M'Kawr — Machærus — First Fortified by Alexander Janneus — The Citadel of Ma chærus — John Baptist Beheaded — Callir hoe Springs — Their Variety and the Beau ty of the Scenery — A Sulphur Bath — Men tioned by Pliny, Josephus, and others — Wady Waled — Eating with the Hamidehs — Bedawin Women Churning Butter — Dhiban — The Moabite Stone — Why Broken — Its Value — Prospects of Explo ration in Moab — Wady Mojeb, River Ar non — Jebal Shihan — Probable Route of the Israelites in their Approach to Pal estine — The Young Sheik of Kerak — Ke raks in Camp and at Work in the Fields — Beit el Kurn — Rabba — Areopolis of the Romans — Our Camp at Kerak — Besieged by the Hungry Natives — The Sheiks at Dinner with us — Exorbitant Backsheesh demanded — The Young Kerak Outwit ted — The Great Castle of Kerak — Its History and Fall — The Town of Kerak never Captured — Departure from Kerak — Diving down through the Tunnel — In a Perilous Position — Along the East Shore

CHAPTER XVII. RAMOTH-GILEAD

— RABBATH-AMMON. First Glimpse of Mount Hermon — Mount Gilead — Ramoth-gilead — Es Salt — Visits to English School and the Effendi —Es Salt a Stronghold— Battles Waged about it — A Sleepless Night and Early Start — Brook Jabbok — Jerash — Fellahin — A Sick Howadji — A Lonely Ride — Arak el Emir — Palace of Hyrcanus — Howadji loses his Saddle-bags — A Chapter of Ac cidents — The Party go to Amman — Phila delphia — The Ruins of Amman — The Standing Feud between the Ammonites and Israelites— Capture of Rabbah — Its Subsequent History — The Desolation of Rabbah 368

CHAPTER XVIII. MOUNTAINS OF ABARIM

— MOUNT NEBO. A Quiet Sunday — Goblan's Camp — Ele aleh and Heshbon — The Country Rolling and Fertile, reminding one of the Valley CONTENTS. over Goliath — Beersheba — Fertility of the Plain of Philistia— Askelon — History of the Country — Gaza, Ancient andModern — One of the Party Sick— Suburbs of Jerusalem, near Jaffa Gate — Ride from Jerusalem to Jaffa— Kirjath-jearim— Bab el Wady— An Arab Tavern — Turkish Conscripts — Ram leh—Latin Convent— The Tower— Pretty Girls — Lepers Begging — The Plain of Sharon — Caravans — Touching Scene on the Road— Hotel at Jaffa — Approached through Orange Groves — Looks Best from the Sea — Jaffa — House of Simon the Tan ner — The Commerce of Jaffa — Difficulty of Landing — Persian Dervishes — Orange Groves and Orange Culture — Coming To gether of all our Party — Miss Arnot's and Miss Baldwin's Schools — The American of the Dead Sea — The Ghowariehs — Areph Negotiating with the Ghowariehs — Arab Diplomacy — Ghor es Safieh — Eluding the Ghowariehs — Departing a*t Midnight — South-east End of the Dead Sea — The Natural and Scriptural Divisions of the Land of Moab Page 402

CHAPTER XX. THE DEAD SEA

— WILDERNESS OF JUDEA. Probable Site of the Vale of Siddim — The Raid of Chedorlaomer and his Con federates — Sodom and Gomorrah — The Question of Location — How Destroyed — El Lisan — Jebel Usdum — West Shore of Dead Sea — First Bath in the Dead Sea — Masada — The Oldest Synagogue in the World — Destruction of the Fortress of Colony at Jaffa — Mr. and Mrs. Floyd — Again en route for Jerusalem — Beth-dagon — Lydda — Church of St. George — A Greek Protestant — Harvesting — Nether and Up per Beth-horon — Gibeon — Its Pool — Neby Samwil — Mizpeh — Extent of the View from its Summit — Tomb of the Judges — Arrival at Jerusalem and Camp near the Russian Masada — Another Bath — Engedi — 'Ain Jidy — A Stronghold of David — Ascent of the Cliffs— View of the Dead Sea— Its Wonderful Physical Character — The Dev il's Stair-way— Dryness of the Wilderness of Judea — Sympathy with David — Valley of the Kedron — Convent of Mar Saba — Quarter Page 465 The Church — Cave of the Lion — Monks of Mar Saba — Met by Ladies from Jeru salem—Through the Valley of the Kedron to En Rogel — Jerusalem again — Damas cus Gate — The Party Leave for the Low Country — Pool of Hezekiah — Upper Pool of Gihon — Montefiore Cottages — West Wall — Jaffa Gate — Looking off from Zion's Heights — Softness and Beauty of

CHAPTER XXII. FURTHER GLIMPSES IN AND AROUND JERUSALEM.

Hill of Evil Counsel — Caiaphas' Coun try House — Aceldama — Village of Sil wan^The Mount of Offense— The Spot where Jesus Wept over Jerusalem — The Olive-wood Factories — The Olive — The Grain Market — Soup-house — Pasha's Residence — Walk on West and North Wall of the City — Areph's House— His Family — Social Corruption — A Moham medan Funeral — The Mourning Wom en — Valley of Roses — Philip's Fountain — the Scene 438

CHAPTER XXI.

PHILISTIA— JAFFA— NEBY SAMWIL. 'Ain Kurim — Zorah — Beit Nettif — Wady es Sumpt, Scene of David's Victory CONTENTS 7 Convent of the Holy Cross— The True Cross planted here — Ancient Church — Preaching in Jerusalem — A Union Church needed — Climate of Jerusalem. . Page 494 — Elijah and Elisha — Plain of Ramah — Fellahin Harvesting — Plain of Dothan — Its Exceeding Richness — Joseph's Sale — Tell Dothan — A Large Olive Grove — An Arab Irrigating his Garden — Jenin— Plain of Esdraelon— Jezreel — Its Admirable Sit uation for a Capital — Naboth's Vineyard

CHAPTER XXIII. JERUSALEM TO MOUNTS GERIZIM AND EBAL.

— Looking from a House-top toward the Jordan — Death of Joram and Jezebel — - The Blood of Naboth fully Avenged — Present Condition of Jezreel . . . Page 534 Finally leave Jerusalem — Last Reluc tant Gaze from Scopus — Nob — Gibeah of Saul — Er Ram, Ramah of Benjamin — Mount Ephraim — Beerotli — Beth-el — Sep aration between Abraham and Lot — Ja cob's Vision and Vow — "Nearer, my God, to Thee " — Desolation of Beth-el — Rock Rimmon — Robbers' Fountain — Sinjil — Shiloh — Old Mosque — Matrimonial Raid of the Benjamites — Wady el Mukhna — Its Fertility and Beauty — Jacob's Well — Why Jacob Dug a Well — The Woman of Samaria — Christ's Conversation with his Disciples — Former Church over the Wall — Joseph's Tomb — Gerizim and Ebal, the Blessing and Cursing — Tested by Dr. Vail — The Samaritan Passover — Summit of Gerizim — Ancient Temple of the Samar itans — View from Mount Gerizim . . . 508

CHAPTER XXV. VALLEY OF JEZREEL

— TABOR — NAZ- ARETH. Gilboa — Ain Jalud — Gideon and the Midianites — Similar Scenes of Frequent Occurrence — Saul and Jonathan Slain — Down the Rich Valley — The Reapers and the Gleaners — Scythopolis — Beth-shean — Its Acropolis— Ancient Pella — The Ride from Beth-shean to Sulem — Zulen, Shu nem, Elisha, and the Shunammite— El Fu leh — Nein — First View of Mount Tabor — Endor — Luxuriant Wheat Fields — Debu rieh — Ascent of Mount Tabor — Raphael's Great Picture of the Transfiguration — The Mount of Transfiguration, Where? — Ta bor the Mount of Transfiguration — The Ruins on the Summit — The View — Cana of Galilee — The Flocks of Goats — Ride from Cana Southward to Nazareth — First View of the Vale and Town of Nazareth

CHAPTER XXIV. NABLOUS TO THE PLAIN OF ES- DRAELON.

The Appearance of Nablous — History of Nablous — Telegraphing — Synagogue of the Samaritans — Their Remarkable Manuscript Copies of the Pentateuch — The Samaritans : History and Present State — The Mohammedans of Nablous — A Fruitful Vale — Sebustiyeh, Ancient Samaria — Church of John Baptist — The Acropolis of Samaria — History of Samaria — Jezebel — The Home of Jesus — A Woman at the Mill — Crooked Streets — Jebel and Neby Ismail — Renan — The Greek Convent— The Latin Convent — An Indignant Lady — A School — Shrines in Nazareth — The Ba zaars — The Christians of Nazareth — The Difficulty of Realizing that Jesus grew up and lived here — How he lived CONTENTS. 8 Ruins— Groves of Nukb and Oleander — Upper Mouth of Jordan — Et Tel, the An cient Julias— 'Ain Tin— Appearance of the Sea as we sat Eating— Cut through which the Road passes around the Mountain — Captain Wilson's Conjecture Concerning it— Khan Minyeh— The Land of Gennes-

CHAPTER XXVI. PLAIN OF ESDRAELON

— CARMEL — TYRE.

Another Ride across the Plain of Esdraelon — Traditional Mount of Precipita tion — Taanach — Megiddo, a Battle Ground — A Raid on our Camp — How the thieving Fellahin disguise their Move ments at Night — Mount Carmel — Place of Sacrifice — The Cloud rising out of the Sea — Elijah's Flight — The Top of Carmel — Bird's-eye View of Esdraelon — Physical Character of Plain of Esdraelon — Ride aret — Path Winding along the Shore through Tangled Thickets — El Mejdel, Magdala — Christ showing Himself to the Seven Disciples after his Resurrection — Sunday at Tiberias— The Baths— The Jews — Tiberias — Ruins of Columns, etc., along the Sea-shore — Mention of Tiberias in New Testament — Christ Teaching on the Sea-shore — Sail on the Lake — Shores of the Sea of Galilee— Probable Attract iveness of Shore and Water in Christ's Day — Characteristics of the Sea — Street Scene — A Garden of Cucumbers — -Kurn along the Backbone of Mount Carmel — "The Park" — "The Fruitful Field" — The Convent on Mount Carmel — Haifa — The German Colony — Delightful Ride on the Beach from Haifa to Accho — Acre — Accho — The Beautiful Mosque — Stopped in going out of the Gate — Jezzer Pasha — His Public Spirit and his Cruelty — Ez Zib — The Scene of Boaz in the Threshing floor — The Ladder of Tyre — Old Tyre — Mulberry-trees and Silk Culture — The Great Fountain — Tyre, or Sur — Its Har bor and Ruins — The Ancient Tyrians — Modern History of Tyre — Ruins of an Old Church — A Remarkable Baptistry — Professor Sepp — Territory of Ancient Hattin, Mount of Beatitudes — Final Over throw of the Crusaders — Arbela — Caves — 'Ain Mudawarah — Fountain of Capernaum — Khan Minyeh, Dr. Robinson's Site for Capernaum — Tell Hum, the Site of Ca pernaum — The large Foundations at Tell Hum, probably Remains of the Synagogue in which Christ Taught — Chorazin — Ca pernaum—Bethsaida — Two Bethsaidas— Productiveness of Plain of Gennesaret — Quotation from Josephus — Its Animate Life — The Shores of the Sea fit Home for Tyre Page 587