Truro ... Cape Cod, or, Land marks and Sea marks ... Illustrations

Preface

. TRISTRAM SHANDY did not want to shake his credit foi veracity by telling an improbable story, however indis putable the facts. We have not ventured into that debatable land between credulity and unbelief. Whatever the quality of our work, whether fish, flesh, or good red herring, we have taken the liberty of telling it honestly and in our own way. Our constant purpose has been to write nothing we should wish unwritten, and to leave unwritten nothing that belongs legitimately to our history. That we have not fully accomplished this purpose would be the most reasonable confession in the world. In every community there is an unconscious force, or sen timent, that lives in a thousand multiform conditions. Seemingly light as gossamer, it is tough as the Tellman shield of seven bull skins. Its intuitions of a good name — of home and kindred, in a described orbit, are among the best of human sensibilities.

That the Cape people share quite freely in this sentiment is altogether praiseworthy, but it is a virtue susceptible of abuse and morbidly sensitive. I have aimed to write of them as they were, according to the best history and the best tradition ; as they are, according to my own observation and experience. I have called things by their own names : narrated the customs, habits, traditions, character, personalities and individualities of the people ; what they said and what they did ; their toil and poverty ; their fortunes and misfortunes ; their energy, economy and thrift ;

PREFACE.

. the lights and shadows of their lives. That the soil is light and sand abundant ; that the trees are stunted and hills barren ; that the bleak winds sweep over the hills, and some times blow the turkeys' wings over their heads, I cannot deny, and have no apologies to make. My duty, if to write at all, was to write honestly and impartially. The verdict is with the reader. These remarks are well intended. Some who have written well of the Cape, have not been well received. Thoreau's Cape Cod, the most scholarly, truthful, and unprejudiced description that I have seen of the Cape, was not popular with the press or the people there. I do not remember an important misstatement of fact, an uncharitable or unchristian fling, in his book. On the contrary, the out come of his conclusions is always directly or indirectly complimentary.

He did not discourse of statesmen, philoso phers, scholars, money kings, or dilettanti. He wrote of and described a hardy race of fishermen and sailors, of whom he seemed to be proud, as of kinship. Men of the gaberdine, with the face and language and grotesque analysis of that day. Himself a philosopher, a student of men, and an honest man, he wrote of them as they seemed to him. and honored them as the world has ever done, for their bold daring, hard common sense, and bluff independence. Praise enough. It is true that Thoreau drew a long bow, and swept a wide field in his comparisons not always flattering to sectional vanity. But his was a wide culture, a liberal spirit, and an independent nature. Cape Cod Folks can scarcely complain with a good grace of methods of speech that require broad latitudes.

Of all literary work, local history is ungrateful in its best conditions. If single-handed and doubtfully environed, the odds magnify. It is, however, pleasant to acknowledge much encouragement and many courteous attentions in this arduous work.

PREFACE.

. 7 I am under obligations to Mr. Josiah Paine of Harwich, for papers and cheerful assistance. To Rev. Frederic Freeman of Sandwich, and his daughter Miss Isabella, for friendly offices. To Hon. Robert C. Winthrop, President of the Massachusetts Historical Society, for a kind letter ; to Charles Deane, LL.D., Secretary of the same Society, for many favors. To the offi cers of the Boston Public Library, Athæneum, and the New England Historic and Genealogical Society, for invariable polite ness and accommodation. To William B. Merrill Esq., of Boston, Walter T. Avery Esq., of New York, and Benjamin Lombard Jr., of Galesburg, 111., for timely encouragement. To Freeman S. Atkins, of Charlestown, for Army and Navy papers. To Captain Jeremiah Paine, of Brooklyn, N. Y., for legend ary lore. To. William S. Allen, A. M., Librarian of the New England Methodist and Historical Society, and Rev. J. B. Hengely, of Bridgewater, for papers.

To George H. Clark, town clerk of Eastham, for attentions. To Rev. J. W. Hamilton, of the People's Church, Rev. C. N. Smith of Ips wich, and J. H. Davis, Superintendent of Public Schools of Somerville, for letters. Also to the following of Truro : To Rev. Dr. Noble, for use of church records, letters, and encour agement in my work; S. C. Paine, the former town clerk, and John B. Dyer, his accommodating successor, for access to town records, the venerable Jesse Collins, and his sister, Miss Polly, free, fair, and fourscore, and Mrs. Sally ( Rich ) Paine, for family recollections. To Captain Sears Rich, concerning the meeting-house of 1794, and to Barnabas Paine, a school mate and life-long friend, for continued services worthy of his historic name, which an elect lady of Truro thought the hand somest in the English language.

Others have rendered me service whose names will appear in the book. To all these and others who have assisted by word or deed, I express my gratitude and thanks. SHEBNAH RICH. Boston, April ig, 1883. CONTENTS.

Chapter I

I NTRODUCTION 1 3 Dry Bones. Files of Stone and Piles of Wood. The Procession. Relevancy. Our Ancestors. The essential Aggregate Human Society. The true Ques tion. A broken Arch. New and Ola. Town Histories. Deserving Merit. Governor Winthrop. Historians. Our Purpose. Lost History. Individual ity. De Toqueville. Modern Ideas. The common People. What they did. Average Citizenship. Misfortunes. Education. Alcibiades. Sir Walter Scott. The Schoolhouse. The College. Fitnesses. Practical Traits. Lord Bacon. Phsyical Geography. Criticism. The Verdict.

Chapter II

The native American 23 Elizabeth's Court. National Niche. Greek Mythology. Common Structure. The dumb Nations. Test of Civilization. Nature and Religion. Pliny. Roger Williams. Liquid Language. Courage. Canonicus the Brave. The Chal lenge. The Pequots. judge Potter. The Paomets. Cape Tribes. Nine Kings. A lusty Pamet. Capt. Standish and Winterwemet. Capt. Richard Bourne. Praying Indians. The simple League. The young " Injuns." Indian Trinity. Indian Nobility. Indian Poetry. Indian Pictures. Indian Graves.

Chapter III

English Adventures and the Rise of the Pilgrims 34 Cape Cod and Cornwall. The Golden A^e. English Sailors. Hudson. A Mermaid. Sir Francis Drake. Bart Gosnold. Cape Cod 11; med. Benjamin Drews Poem. The Ancient Mariner's Log. Repeated Failures. American Fisheries. The Condition of Europe. Who were the Pilgrims? How they came to think so. Buxton. Victor Hugo. The human Mil d. The Roman Yoke. Green. Social Life in England. The Bible The Love of moral Beauty. The Puritan Mind. Independency. The Covenair. The Puritan Character. The Westminster Declaration. The Pilgrims or Separatists. Their Union and Covenant. Persecution. Removal. In Holland. Emigra tion. The Mayflower. Sight ed' Land. Cape Cod. Mourt's Ri lation. Brad ford's Description. Poop of the Mayflower. The first Landii g. De Costa. American Sahara. The Compact. A Historic Picture. Various Opinions. The Weight of Testimony. The Mayflower and Plymouth Rock.

Chapter IV

The Pilgrims in Truro 53 The first Boat. Where they landed. Description. Travellers' Veracity. Crit icism. American Forests. New England Plantation. Mr. Higginson of Salem. Old England. The Shallop Cantain Miles Standish. A Tableau. The Rendezvous. East Harbor. First Water in America. 10:0-1878. The Signal. On to the "Supposed River." The Pond. The cleared Lanl, or Indian Cornfields? Great Hollow. The first Indian Grave Strawberries. Cornhill The Coast Survey The first Indian Corn. Corn vs Grapes. An glo-Saxon Argument. Corn Planting. Captain Dermer The River. Tom's Hill. Savages. Providence A Deer-trap. Stephen Hopkins. Second Dis covery. Master Jones. Iron Men. Early Graves. Up the River. L« dging under the Fines. The main Chance and Seed Corn. Pilgrim Pluck. Inlian Trails. Arbitrary Lines.

Indian Grave. Speculations. Wigwams. Confers CONTENTS. ence. Pro and Con. Truro Water. Robert Coffin. A narrow Escape Per egrine White. Bereavements Providential Names. Young Billington. Third Discovery. Freezing Cold. Grampus Bay. The first Encounter. Per ilous Voyage. Good News. Webster on Plymouth Rock.

Chapter V

1670 — Settlement at Pamet or Paomet — 1709 7S Indian Spelling. The Old-comers. Settlers of Eastham. The Old South Meeting-House Nauset. Pamet Lands. Proprietors. Purchases. Drift Fish. Indian Lands. Tom Paine. Earlier Settlers. Cape Cod. Indian Fidelity. Governor Hinckley. Marshpee Deacon. Removal. Provision for a Minister. Nathaniel Ells. Commonage, star Island Protections Trees. New England Ministry. High Commissioner's Court. Hannah North. New Lights. The Declaration. Enoch Pratt. Records of 1703. Drift Highway. Tashmuit. Hog's Back. Ministerial Lands. Mr. Theophilus Cotton. Indian Shell Beds. Rev. Samuel Treat. Calvinism. Awakemngs. The Great Snow. The first Clerk A Colonial Charter.

Chapter VI

Peace, Progress and Whaling ioo Last Officers of Pamet. Purchases of Indians. Waste of Forests. Cattle Owners. The first Windmill. Crows and Blackbirds. Ancient Bounds Fat Office. Fencing the Wolves. Cape Cod Canal George Washington. The first Suez Canal" The Path to India. The Dream of Europe. Province Lands. Precinct of Cape Cod. Boundaries. Sojourners. 1717— Missionary Enter prise—1877. Incorporation of Provincetown. Precarious Existence. Reha bilitation. Lands a Begging. Whale and Whaling. The " Lydia and Sophia." Ody Flavor. Dr. Freeman in 1794. Burke's Argumentum Piscatcrium. Cape Cod Schoolmasters. Richard Paine. Rev. Levi Whitman. Fighting Whale. The Bible Captain. Globiceph Alus Melas. Daniel Rich's Morning Spurt. Captain Henry Atkins. The ship " Whale."

Chapter VII

Truro old and new , - 115 Dangerfield and Poole. Act of Incorporation. Dudley and Mather. Who named Ti uro? Roger Conant. Etymology of the Name. Truro in Cornwall. History and Associations. Queen Victoria's Description. Granger Hill. St. Mary's Cathedral Bishop and Archbishop Benson. How a Cathedral is finished. Viscount Vivian. Owen Fitzpen. Truro Market Tablet. Trago thian. Falmouth and Provincetown. Pendennis Castle. Cornish Language. Barbarisms. Cornish Travellers. Handsome Women. Cornish Race. Mild Superstition. Personalities. King Arthur. Land's End. Prominthian Fountain. Cornish Politics. Election of a Member. Liberals and Conserva tives. Cornish Curiosities. John Wesley's first and last Sermon Holy Wells Cornish Tourists. Dean of Canterbury. English Inn. Sam Gilbert. Cornish Fare. Cornish Toast. Penzance Pilchards and Pirates. Truro Par ish. Old Polick Church. General Washington's Pew and Coach. Truro Station.

Chapter VIII

The first Church in Truro 143 The Hill of Storms. The Spirit of Elia. Ruling Elders. The Great Land mark. Fundamentals and Magna Charta. Error ot Historians. The first Meeting-house. Galleries. Fasts established. First Pew-holders. Puritan Architecture. The Book of Common Prayer. Rev Phillips Brooks.

Chapter IX

1709 — Rev. John Avery — 1754 ici The first settled Minister of the Church of Christ in Truro. Thorenu. The old Ministry. Good History. Great Battles. Town Vote Acceptance. Agreement. Ordination. First Members. First Baptisms. Family History. CONTENTS. 7 Harvard College Line. Truro Family. Water Springs. Tashmuit — Shaw mut. Salary. Dr. Freeman's Eulogy. The Parsonage and Smithy. Canter bury Tales. Records Moving cautiously. Advance in Salary. Old Tenor. An even-spun Life. Drawing to a Close. Assistant. Turner, Upham and Angier. Economy. Preparations for Ordination. Death of Mr. Avery. Gravestones. Last Will and Testament.

Chapter X. How They Worshiped, Or Law And Gospel

167 Saturday Night. The New England Sabbath. The Deacon and the Host. Going to Meeting. The Hour Glass. Long Sermons. Legislation. Pilgrim Polity. Confederation. Tyrants and Taxation. Whipping Post. Sunday Laws. Muskets to Meeting. McFingal. Matchlocks. Fines. Quakers and Indians. Reaction. Ye Constable. Funeral Fashions. Drums. Tithing Man. Naughty Boys and long Prayers. Uprising and Downsitting. Days of Humiliation. Mr. John Lothrop. Thanksgiving. Wonder-working Prov idence. Edward Johnson The first Grave. Silent Habitations. God^ Acre. Wm. H. Laphani. Decoration Week. A worshipful Spot. Sentiment and Superstition. The ben-^ gbted Traveller. Entombed. The bewitched Captain. southeyand Tregeagle. Spiritual Visitants. Cotton Mather. Winter Evening Tales. The Chimney Corner. A scared Boy. Love of the Marvellous. Old Chapman.

Chapter XI. Geologically And Otherwise Considered

188 Clams and Clamming. Scollops and Pilgrims. Ocean Flora. Fertility of the Ocean. Planet Sinking. Salt-water Lawns. English Hay. Ah Sin. Pond Acreage. French Alchemy. Rev. Mr. Ward and Professor Shaler. Geologi cal Speculation. Physical structure. Bart. Gosnold. Lost Territory. Points Care and Gilbert. Gosnold's Geography. Georges Bank. Nantucket Shoals. Matthias Rich. Captain Eldredges Chart. Loss of the Byron. The Sparrow Hawk. Deacon Doane Marvellous Changes. Amos Otis. Professor Agas siz. Map. New England Storms. Amputation. Driving Stakes. Science. Song of the Carbons. High Head. Hitchcock. Pretty Landscape. Coombs. Merrivale. English Weather. Clay Pounds. Highland Light Diluvial Ele vations. Mountain Waves. Lagoons. The Question settled. Corn Hills. Tashmuit. A deserted Village. English Cannon Balls.

East Harbor. Old Lewis Cameron. A lonely Grave. Good Farms Bank Dividends. Land Empirics. Barnstable Coat of Arms. What Ireland deserves. Kendall. A. green old Age. Solid Knowledge.

Chapter XII

1715 — General History of the Town — 1750 216 Destruction of the Forest. Lawless Sojourners. Increase of Fishing Ships. Importance of Cape Cod Harbor. Drifting Sands. Government Jobs. Stout's Creek. Hog Island. Parran Porth. St. Patrick and St. Andrew. St. Prian and his Tomb. Schools. Schoolmaster Spear. Doncastor. Office a-begging. Economy. High Sense of Honor. Samuel White. The humane Man. Bel lamy the Pirate. The Whidah. Cob Money. Haley's Island House. Cap tain Kidd. Schoolhonses. Value of Land. Province Treasury. Storms of 1723 and 1035. Richard Mather. Hector the last Slave. Bill of Sale. Manumitted. The General Court. The Minority hold the Fort. The Majority appeal Proprietors of 1730. Petition for a new County. Dr. Dyer. Records of 1733. Ice Punch in July. Memorial. Longnook. Land Bank Scheme. Sam Adams. Judge Solomon Lombard. Legislation. Deacon Joshua !- reeman. Severe Drought.

Chapter XIII

1755 — Rev. Caleb Upham — 1786 — Second settled Minister of the Church of Christ in Truro .....235 Call of Mr. Charles Turner. Acceptance Release. Quit-claim. A Whale breaks up the Meeting. Call of Mr. Upham. His model Answer. His Ordi nation. Notice by Rev. James Freeman. Mr, LTpham a Poet. His Work. Scotch Practice repealed. The Psalms vs. Tate and Brady. Close Vote. CONTENTS. Church Singing. Sternhold and Hopkins. Majesty of God. Rous' Version. Marquis of Lome Paraphrasing. Bay Psalm Book. Lampooning. Church enlarged. Sale of Pews. Deacon Anthony Snow. Christian Forbearance. A Briton Deacon Ephraim Harding. Mr. Upham's Death. A Patriot. The Graveyard. The Names. Schoolmaster Hincks. His Marriage. Gen. E. W. Hincks. Rev. Samuel Osborn. Church Consistory.

Chapter XIV

1750 — General Outlines — 1800 246 Fish Laws. The French War. Grammar School. Three R's. Cole's Rate. The Fishing and General Court. God's Providence vs. Man's Folly. Revenue. Free Seining restricted. First Free School. Cape Cod Fictions. New Eng land and Virginia. Town Meeting 1701. John Bacon s Will. First l'rotest against Slavery. Pomp's Lot. Capt. Matthias Rich. Forbidding the Banns. The. dark Day. Lighthouses. Sailing and Sailors. Forbisher's great Fleet. Northwest Passage. Death Rate. Training Field. Long Nooning's. Old Hutta Dyer. Bassing. Yarns. Direct Tax of 1798 Rev. James Freeman. D. D. Description of Truro. Washing away. Mild Mythology. Margate and Ramsgate. Dr. Jason Ayers. Harbor at the Pond.

Chapter XV

The Fisheries and the Wars 263 Exposed Condition. A Precarious Town. Dark Prospects. Beginning of the Fishing. Rivals for the Prize. Henry the IV. Sir Walter Raleigh. Stock Companies and the Nobility. Dutch Fishermen. Newfoundland./? Catholic Europe. English Statutes. The Problem of Kings. Royal Kitchen and Royal Economy. Pine-Tree Shillings. Charles and Codfish. The People. 1485 — English Commerce— 1880. Education. Supply and Demand. From Newfoundland to New England. St. Saviour. Acadia Fighting Men. Louis XIV. Louisburg. A modern Crusade. Victory. One Vote. Fisher men Knighted. Peace. Codfish and Molasses. Free Rum. Merchant Voy ages. The Cape threatened. The Armada. Lawful Money. Crown Point. Petition for Protection. "Watch and Ward. The Scheme. Privateering. Second Seige of Louisburg. Change of Rule. Dissatisfaction. An impending Crisis.

Chapter XVI

War of the Revolution 275 Emigration. Compensation. Peace. The Exhibit. Criticism and Agitation. Stamp Act. Memorial. Port Bill. The English Merchants. Buckle on George III. East India Co.'s baneful Tea. Report of the Committee. Patriotic Letter to Boston. A good Test. Military School. April. 1775. Preparations. Prov incetown a Rendezvous. Hummock Krigade. Independence. Voted to fall in. No Wavering. Board of War Convention at Concord. Active Efforts. Hard Times and hard Dollars The Somerset wrecked. General Otis. The fished Pipe. English Officers Dr. William Thayer. Pressing Requisi tions. The Continental Soldier. Condition of 1782. Positive Suffering. Un flinching Devotion. Privateering. Gobbling Prizes. Marblehead and Captain John Manly. Salem. Declaration. Battle of Yorktown. Dr. Sam Adams. Rev. Levi Whitman. A high Compliment. Number of Men. Brigs Resolution and Intrepid. David Snow and Son.

Chapter XVII

1 786 — Rev. Jude Damon — 1828 289 The third settled Minister of the Church of Christ in Truro. Ordination. Sketch of Mr. Damon. Church Wheels. Dr. Hersey's Will. Deacon's Con gress. Utopian. Election of Deacons. First and last Baptisms. A Peace maker. A side Wind. Polite Boys. The "old Shay." Four Kings. Mr. Damon and Mr. Job. Orthodoxy. Rev. Joseph Cook. A good Man. A good Minister. The great Sickness of 1816. The Triumvirate. The old North. Moral Excellence. Christian Forbearance. Old Blood. Huldah Rich. The Squire and the Priest. Peggy Rider. Accepting the Terms. Bible Society. ." "hn. Stalely Gravestones. Mr. Damon's Register. His best Monument. T::e Truro Astronomer. The Conclusion. CONTENTS. 9

Chapter XVIII

1792 — The People called Methodists — 1882 304 The first Minister. Local Preachers. Circuit Riders. The first Meeting-house. The Cradle of Methodism. General Minutes. Historians. Grand Dedication. 1795. Jesse Lee. Persecution. Inquisitionists. Bigotry and Humanity. Joseph Snelling. A Constellation of Worthies. They marry. Spiritual De velopments. Enthusiasm. Criticism. Converted to the Core. Qualifications. Men of one Book. Preaching without Liberty. Barnard of Batcombe. The College at Seven Ponds. Cob and Corn. The Queen of Sheba. An elect Lady. New House of 1831. List of Appointments. Rev. Benjamin Keith. Rev. Thomas Dodge. ■ Rev. Joel Steele. The M. E. Church in Truro. First Trustees. New Meeting-house. Remodeled 1.45. List of Appointments. Great Revival. Millennial Day. Ephraim Doane Rich.

His Psalter and Arithmetic. The Doncastor Doctor. Stephen Collins. Give Lenox a pull, The old Bethel. Father Taylor. The Wellfleet Singer. Clam Bait. Leafy Temples. The first Camp Meetings. Preaching up to the Times. John Smith. Rev. Daniel Atkins. Rev. Doane R. Atkins.

Chapter XIX. How They Lived

332 Modern Improvements. Middlemarch. Scientific Activity- Victor Hugo. An honest Purpose. Pilgrim Habits. Kathrina. Charles I. Mr. Winslow and the Royal Charter. Blackstone. English Homes. Truro, Eng. Fashion able Gentlemen. Fashionable Ladies. Kitty Trevylyn. Old Grimes. Home spun. Labrador Tea. Lora Standish. Needlework. Live Geese. High Beds. Old Houses. The Sundial The Kitchen. Geraldine. Gervase Mark ham. Tusser, the English Botanist. Fireplace Equipments. Jack-of -all-trades. Pewter 'are. Bean Porridge. The Punch-Bowl. Temperance Reform. Trenchers. Mortar and Pestle Spider Cakes philosophically considered. Faculty. Well-fed. Sunday Dining. Resources. Herbert Spencer. Pump kin Pie. Old Orchards. High-top Sweetings. Atlantic Apples. Old Pear tree Tradition. The Old Colony Club. Darnel Webster. Home. The highest Honor. Contentment. Brother Joe.

Chapter XX

War of the Embargo 353 Prosperity. Turn of the Tide. Rotting Vessels. Petitions. An obstinate President. New Intercourse Act. Home Manufactures. Right of Search. Declaration of War. Letters of Marque. Privateering. Captain Reuben Rich. Yankee Navy. Songs of Victory. The " Majestic. The Target. Mill Hill. Pranks. British Officers Society. Dazzling Guineas. Provincetown Fortunes. Trading to New York. In their own Coin. The Boy Pilot. The Newcastle. Peace. How it reached Proviucetown. Old Dartmoor Prison. Truro Prisoners. Damp Weather. The Scape-Gallows. A polite Yankee.

Chapter XXI

The Modern Congregational Church 362 Dividing Line. Act of 1777. New Departure. The Bell Meeting-house. Honest Work. Rev. Stephen Bailey. Law Suit. John Harding. David Snow. Rev. Charles Boyter. Maximum of Prosperity. Government Bounty. Sailing for the Banks. Stewart and Bismarck. Love of the Marvellous. Spiritual Visitauts. Public Sentiment. An Oracle. Lucky Fishermen. Smart Men. Captain Godfrey Rider. Uncle Wiff. "Jonas." Sermon on Luck. Rev. C. B. Elliott. A dual Life. Rev. E. W. Noble. Installation. 1849 — Quarter Centennial— 1874. Hon. Thomas N. Stone, M. D. Interesting Services. Poem. Sunday Fishing. Jeremy Taylor. Noble Christian Men. Cooging. Sunday-school. James Collins. The old Arithmetic. Character. Rev. Osborn Myrick. Union Church.

Chapter XXII

Seafaring and Landfaring 384 Seafaring. Daniel Webster's Letter. A cardinal Point. Dr. Dwight. Capt. Obadiah Rich. Capt. Benj. Rich. The good Samaritan. Dr. Young. The Humane Society. Letters of Sympathy. The Hill-top Groves. Rev. Charles Rich. Capt. John Collins. A model Sailor. E. K. Collins. The Dramatic CONTENTS. 10 Line. The Collins' Steam Line. From the Pinkey to the Ship. Capt. Richard Baker. Richard Baker. Jr. Capt. Elisha Baker. The Atkins Family. Lom bard. Isaac Snow Gross. Capt. Levi Stevens. Isaac Rich. Matthias Rich. Capt. Edmund Burke.

Chapter XXIII

Fishermen .417 Yachting. A new Life. A Race. Nobody Beat. Changes. Tom Hood. The Coast Guard's Song Long Ned. Judy Caliaghani. Codfishing. Hygiene and the Banks. Shut Up. Saturday Night. The Song of Welcome. Uncle Sam. Ship " Mediator." Pleasant Memories. Henry Pearce. Sinking of the " James Beard." Mackerel. How they were caught High Line. Kings. Commodore. Daniel Clark. Tide Harbor. A Breakwater. River and Har bor Improvements. Union Wharf. Beginning of Business. Elisha Newcomb. Beach Speculations. Sea Vandals. Improvements. John N. Devereaux. Captain Hinckley. Marine Insurance Company. Surplus Revenue. Benevo lent Society. Picturesque Speech. A dull Sailor. Mr. Ambrose Snow. Mr. William White. Two Pine-trees.

Chapter XXIV

The Tide Turned •• 438 Prosperous Days. Cause of Decline. The Piling Failure. Truro Academy. Joshua H. Davis Horace Maun. New Departure. His Preparation. His Work. Popular Education. Tom Brown at Rugby. Result A Traveller. Cape Cod Branch. Wharf Building. Ship l uilding. Prospects. Universa list Church. New Lighthouse. Modern Tyre. Steamer " Cambria." County Commissioners. Staging over Sahara. Stage Acquaintances. Staging English man. An old Stager. Venice of New England. Government Recommenda tions. .Mails. Attended their own Funerals. Cape Cod Telegraph Company Final Blow The Packet. Captain Zoheth Rich The ''Post-boy." Going to Boston. Canterbury Tales. Passengers.' Comparing Notes. Thoreau. Captain Richard Stevens.

Chapter XXV

Landmarks and Seamarks 449 Old Acquaintances. Hie Jacet, Emigration. Roof Tree. Citizenship. Changes. Population. Summer Resorts. 1830 Massachusetts Gazateer. Banner Town. Prospect. Possibilities. Prophetic Lens. Old Pictures. Salt Mills Salt Works. Salt Fish. Salt Water. Salt. Well-preserved. Pictur esque Town. Flemish Picture. Profane Visitor. One Horse with one Eye. Stone vs. Fish. No Road Doctor Davy and Penzauce Carts and Carpets. Paths and Pilots. A Road that needed no sprinkling. United States Surplus under Feet. Lost Feet. Railroad. Mackerel Fleet Salt Industry. Con sumption and Supply. Mills and Castles. Sancho Panza. Dramatis Persona?. The Grist Mill. The Old Miller. Golden Meal. Mills of the Gods. Chatham A Whig Platform. Corn Laws. In Memoriam.

Chapter XXVI

War of the Rebellion 473 Fort Sumter. Liberty Poles. War Meetings. Tall Flag Spars. Hoisting the Flag. Devotion to the Cause. Enrollment. Mutual Support Club. The Arms. Volunteers Mass. 43d. Nine Months' Men. Volunteers of 1802. Mass. 33d Fighting Family. A Prison and a Monument. Prison Rules. Prison Fare. Active Service. Haps and Mishaps. Hard Marching. Good Fighting. The Work done. Marching Home. Turning over the Flags. Served and suved the Country. The Navy. Accomplished Officer. Swallowed up. Father and Sons. Final Discharge, (lallant Commander. The Boy Sailor. Prize Master. Blockade Runner. Never heard from. The End.

Chapter XXVII

Shipwreck. 483 Dedicatory. God knows. Unrest. The missing Ship. Toil. Missing Link. Heroines. Deacon Moses Paine. ADiarv. The first mentioned. Four Mas ters. Ship " America." Salem " Gazette." Captain John Simpson. John S. Emery. Three Salem Ships. The Brutus. The Man in a Sand Mask, lle-v. CONTENTS. 11 An intuitive Navigator. A gentle Sailor. 1825, a fatal Year. Visitor to a Townsman's Grave after forty-five Years. Clutching for Life. The black Flag. Duty and the Grave. A noble Woman. The youngMerchant. A sad Sunday. The Poet. Towed under, October Gale of 1841. The lost Fleet. Account of Joshua Knowles. Account of Matthias Rich. Other Notes. A Sea Feat. Love's Phantom. Mysterious Calamity. The Fishermen's Grave A Family Record. The venerable Skipper lost near his own Doorstone. The October Gale of 1851 Honor to his Craft. Heroes. The fearless Captain A true Sailor. Buried at Sea. Not divided in Death.

Chapter XXVIII

Genealogy 518 The last Chapter. Passing Generations. True Honor. Promises. Ancestry. System. Atkins. Atwood. Long Measure. Avery. Bangs. First Comers. Baker "Honest Nicholas." Chapman. Collins'. Cobb. Post Admiral. Cole. Cook. The first Bark. Davis. Dyer. The Doctor's Knack. Freeman. Race Characteristics. Gross. Judge Hinckes. Hinckley. The Governor aud Poet. The good Deacon and Judge. Harding. Higgins. Hopkins. Knowles. Lombard. "An ancient Race. Mayo. Mulford. Newcomb. Paine. Dooms day Book. Pike. Purington. Rich. Rider. Ridley. Savage. Small. Smith. Snow. Stevens. Treat. Vickery. Young. Coan. Lewis. List of Subscribers 568 List of Donors 569 Index ENGRAVINGS. PAGE.

Frontispiece Returning the Snake Skin - - 27 The Last Meeting at Plymouth - 45 The Mayflower entering Cape Cod Harbor 47 Race Point, 1878 - - - - 48 The first Washing-day - - 56 Miles Standish in his Boots of Cordovan Leather - - - 59 Monument to Miles Standish, etc. 63 The old Oaken Bucket - - - 74 The Drift Whale - - - - no The 1405 School of Blackfish - 113 Truro in England - - - - 121 A Baronial Castle - - - 129 Dosmery Pool .... 131 The Sands of Dark Tintegal by the Cornish Sea . - - 132 Land's End — Longship's Lighthouse 133 The typical jolly Landlord - - 138 Ship ashore 'fore Day - - - 140 The Meeting-house on the Hill of Storms - - - - 143 John Avery, Portrait - - - 155 Rev. John Avery's Seal - - 166 The first Thanksgiving - - 177 Spinning and Knitting in the Sun 1S6 Points Care and Gilbert, 1602 - 199 Clay Pounds, HighlandLighthouse 203 Highland Lighthouse ... 205 Example of Diluvial Depressions and Elevations ... 206 Dismantled Grist Mill at Highlands 208 Supposed to be Belamy of the Whidah 223 Ploughing 234 Vacation Pastime - - - - 245 And so off Shore let the good Ship fly 256 Nantucket Lighthouse - - - 262 Pond Village 304 Second Methodist Church built in New England - - - 3CS PAGE.

M. E. Church, So. Truro - - 317 1S26 — Meeting-house of the M. E. Church, Truro— 1882 - -318 John Smith, Portrait - - - 323 Rev. Daniel Atkins - - - 329 They touched the Spinning-wheel and Distaff ... - 338 Old-fashioned double House - - 34c The old Fireplace - - ■ 342 The Ilincks-Gross Pear-tree, 1SS2 349 Every House was a little Factory 354 1827, The new Bell Meeting-house 1SS3 - - - - - - 363 Rev. Edward W. Noble. D.D. - 373 Cong. Parsonage, Residence, etc. 375 Union Church, Pond Village - 3S0 The Rev. Osborn Myrick - - 381 Climbing towards the Great Bear 384 Passing the Golden Gate to 'Frisco 3S5 Comfortable Homes - - - 387 David Lombard - - - - 393 Isaac Snow Gross - - - 399 Capt. Levi Stevens ... 403 Isaac Rich 407 Matthias Rich .... 413 She chides her throbbing Heart - 425 Her broad welcome Beams dashed away, etc. ----- 437 In the Harbor - 44S Map of Cape Cod and O.C.RR. - 451 High Pole Hill, Provincetown, 1S70 454 Provincetown fifty Years ago - 456 Washing out Fish on Provincetown Shore - 45S Mackerel Fleet getting under Way 460 Summer Residence of the Author at Longnook - 465 Old Windmill — a Landmark- - 469 Town Hall 470 Launching the Life Boat - - 4S5 Swimming ashore - 499 Monument in Memory of the Oct. Gale in 1841 - r0. Hauling in the Life-saving Car - 514 Wreck of the bark Francis - - >»«•

Introduction

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Dry Bor.es. Piles of Stone and Piles of Wood. The Procession. Relevancy. Our Ancestors. The essential Aggregate. Human Society. The true Question. A broken Arch. New and Old. Town Histories. Deserving Merit. Governor Winthrop. Historians. Our Purpose. Lost History. Individuality. De Toqueville. Modern Ideas. The common People. What they did. Average Citizenship. Misfortunes. Education. Alcibiades. Sir Walter Scott, The Schoolhouse. The College. Fitnesses. Practical Traits. Lord Bacon. Physical Geography. Criticism. The Verdict. WHEN first I began to gather material for this book, it seemed stubborn work, and the little heaps were piled here and there with slow, wearisome steps. And when at last I sat hesitatingly down among the piles of stone, and piles of wood, to sort, and shape, and build, there seemed lit tle beauty or comeliness, with no sign of life.

Looking sadly over them, I said : Can these dry bones live ? Shall they ever stand stone to stone, and beam to beam, and joint to joint ? Shall there ever come to these lifeless clods propor tion and harmony, and shall the capstone thereof ever be brought forth with rejoicing? Night after night, and week after week, still the piles of stone and piles of wood remained dark and shapeless. By and by there came light and spirit. The mute, blind clods spoke with a thousand tongues, and looked out from kindred eyes. Henceforth they became my friends. I sat down no more silent and alone. As one by one these pages have been slowly gathered, one by one, and in little groups, these friends have also been gathered. I have found them '3 delightful companions. Always the same : they have no new or changed faces.

Our acquaintance has ripened into tender relationship and unchanging friendship that has repaid many-fold all my toil. To these well-tried friends, true as steel in sunshine and shadow, whose confidence I have shared, and whose experience I have treasured, with whom I have walked familiarly to and fro and up and down the earth, I would introduce my readers. Coming from the four quarters, with strange garb and stranger speech, you will find them a motley group. But the painted war-chiefs of the wilderness, the scholarly Tyndale and the reformers, the bigoted Mary, the martyr saints, the grim soldiers and lord-bishops of Elizabeth, the stern Puritan, the iron-faced, ancient mariner, the Pilgrim band, and the settlers at Eastham and Truro, will quietly sit side by side, and tell the moral of their lives.