Narratives of tours in India made by ... Lord Connemara ... 1886-1890

Front matter

OPINIONS OF THE PEESS. " The official record of the tours of Lord Connemara, Governor of Madras, through his presidency, has the merit of being written by a member of his staff with a sense of humour and an eye for the picturesque . Many of Lord Connemara' s old colleagues in the House of Commons will envy him his pleasaDt adventures in Southern India, and congratulate him on having them so charmingly chronicled." — Daily News, 30th November 1887. "There bas been published an account of a tour through Wynaad, Malabar, Cochin, Travancore, Tinnevelly, Madura, Trichinopoly and Tan jore by (the Private Secretary to) Lord Connemara, the Governor of Madras. It contains many interesting passages." — The St. James's Gazette, 7th December 1887. " Lord Connemara concluded, in November, his third tour, and the narrative, just printed as an official paper, is the chronicle of a very agree able month's doings." — The (London) Times, 23Td December 1887.

" In the quieter Presidency of Madras, Lord Connemara follows the admirable custom of official tours of inspection, and his accomplished Private Secretary, Mr. Rees, issues, from year to year, very readable little blue books, which narrate the experiences of such expeditions." — Daily Tele graph, 29th November 1887. "•A private report of Lord Connemara's tour through Madras, of which a few copies have reached private friends in England. It is singularly well written, full of picturesque detail about little-visited provinces, and is well worth a wider circulation than is contemplated."— The South Wales Daily News, 16th January 1888. " An account of a seventh tour of Lord Connemara has just been issued. I trust that these tours will be published in some cheap form in England, for they are excellent reading, and give a very graphic account of Lord Salisbury's 'blackmen' at home."— Truth, 13th December 1888.

" An exceedingly interesting account has been published of the seventh tour of Lord Connemara in the Madras Presidency, which began on the 9th of October and terminated on the loth of November. His Excellency was accompanied by Major Scott Chisholme and Mr. Rees, the last-named gentle man being the author of the narrative which abounds in picturesque de scription of scenery, graphic sketches of native character and customs, and brief historical disquisitions relieved by touches of dry humour which render his account of the tour very agreeable as well as instructive reading." — The Morning Post, 27th December 1888. " The Times of Friday last devoted more than a column to the recent tour of the Governor of Madras to which I referred a fortnight ago, basing its observations on an account of the journey which was written by Mr. Rees, Lord Connemara's Private Secretary. ' This account,' says The Times, ' is short, picturesque, and vivacious, for Lord Connemara has not only a shrewd sense of the practical necessities of the country through which he passes, but a keen sense of humour ;' and the interesting narrative is constantly referred to as having been written by him.

Chapter I. North Arcot, Salem, Coimb

VTORE. PAGE Departure from Madras — Our party — Gathering at Railway Station — Maharaja of Vizianagram — " Sakuntala " — Forest tires — Address from Hindu Brethren of Wallajnagar — Arrival at Katpadi — Vellore jail — Lingam Lakshmaji — Fort — Kalyanamantapam — Ex-zemindar of Palcondah — Mission school — Tombs of Tippoo Sultan's relatives — Mussulman Stipendiaries — Reception at Salem — Rev. Mr. Foulkes — Salem riots — Curious mottoes — More addresses — Shevapett mosque — Condition of town — Native entertainment — Central jail — Prisoner's petition — Local dispensary — Weaving industry — A busy afternoon — Arrival at Coimbatore — Visits to local institutions — Sir Thomas Munro — Village Munsiff's bill — Horse-breeding establishment — At Mettapolliem — En route to Hills — Burliar gardens — Mr. Lawson — Colonel Jago — Mr. Burrows — Municipal address at Charing Cross — Arrival at Ootacamund . . . . 1

Chapter II. Bellary, Anantapur, Kurnool

Departure from Ootacamund — Our party — At Mettapolliem — Anamalai Hills — Salem — Renigunta — Sacred Tirupati — Nellore State Railway — Kodur and Mamandur Reserves — Sir Dietrich Brandis — Cuddapah — Guntakal — Southern Mahratta Railway — Bellary — Raja of Sandur — His State — Levee — Military Hospital — Fort Church — Madras Cavalry Lines — Messrs. Sabapathy and Company's mills — Sir Ramasawmy's Lying-in Hospital — Thugs — En route to Hospett — Darojee tank — Our party — From Hospett to Vijianagar — An accident — A panther at large — Hnmpi ruins — Duarte Barbosa — Old Vizianagar — Pampatiswami temple — Picturesque sights — Vigneswara Swami — Mantapams — Nizam's frontier — Fallen temples — Elephant stables — Deserted zenanas — CONTENTS. VIII PAGE Ryots' indifference — Megasthenes on India — Vittalswami's pagoda — Indian squirrels— Legend from Ramayana— Bathing ghaut — Torii-like monoliths — Anagundi — Coracles — Jain temples- Native club — London Mission schools — Sisters of the Convent of Good Shepherd— Entertainment at Prince of Wales' choultry- People's Association address — Technical education — Sanscrit address— Sham fight — Burmese dacoits — Gooty— Sir Thomas Munro's tomb— Anantapur — Addresses at Munro's cutcherry — Replies — Buckacherla project — Pamedy cloths— Dharmavaram silks— Address at High school— Sir M. E. Grant Duff— Jubilee Park— People's Association address — Gooty fortress — Ascent of hill— A Mahratta General — Dhone — Tooma trees — Hindry — Sir Arthur Cotton's canal — Kurnool — Sunkesala — Canal journey— Nawab of Banganapalle — His brother-in-law — Addresses — Local water-supply — Native entertainment — Nandyal — Yerramalais — Viaduct — Visit to Cuddapah postponed — Ascent of ghaut — Results of Tour 9

Chapter III. Wynaad, Malabar, Cochin, Travancore, Tinnevelly, Madura, Trichinopoly, Tanjore

Indian monsoons — Departure from Ootacamund — Our party — Naduvatam Cinchona plantations — Cheap febrifuge — Anecdote — At Nadghani — Indian Gold Mining Company — Corumburs— En route to Malabar— Poon spar tree — Eddacurra village — Government teak plantations — Mahogany — India rubber — Keddah operations — Tirumalpad — Nilambur camp — Mambat — A mishap — Snake-boats — Reception at Calicut — Novel address — Zamorin's visit — Addresses— Mappilla Act — Mappillas — Levee — Lunatic Asylum — King of the World — Basel German Mission — District Jail — Calicut city — Port Trust — Deputation of evicted tenants — Ireland of Madras Presidency — Mr. Logan — Prize-giving at Government College — Kerala Vidyasala — Departure — Beypore — Calicut extension — Mr. Hanna — Kallai bridge — Ferookh bridge— Anecdote of Tippoo Sultan — Reminiscence of Lord Mayo — From Shoranur — At Trichur — Illuminations en route — Mr. Hannyngton — General Sir Harry Prendergast — Drive around town — Nairs — Their marriage system— Pagoda — Pradakshanams — Jail — Desperate character — Cathedral of Syro-Chaldean Christians — Bishop Mar Elias John Mellus— Kor Episcopos — Condition of Chaldeans — Eccentric procession — Houses of Nairs Start for Cochin— At Bolghatty— " Punchbowl "—British Cochin— Raja's visit— Archbishop of Veerapoly— Durbar— White and Black CONTENTS.

IX PAGE Jews — Jews' synagogues — Women of White Jews — State banquet — Toasts — Periar project — Viceroy — First Prince — Vasco da Gama' s tomb — Jesuits' College — Local Chamber of Commerce — Departure for Trevandrum — Backwater illuminations — At Quilon — Dewan of Travancore — Workali tunnels — Town en site — Maharaja's visit to Governor — Malayali Sabha address — False impression — Minister's post — Wise administration — Virtue of sea-sand — Prize-giving at Maharaja's College — State banquet — " Model State " — Rido to Courtallum — Camp Gorge bungalow — Romantic valley — At Courtallum — Addresses — Tenkasi temple — Departure — At Tinnevelly — Palamcottah — Bishop Caldwell — Bishop Sargent's schools — Levee — Addresses — Tuticorin — Tamraparni irrigation — Working of Agricultural department — Mr. Varada Row — At Madura — Tumkum — Queen Mangammall — Montrose heart — Lord Napier and Ettrick — Meenatchiumman temple — High priest — Periyar project — Lord Dufferin — Ameri can Mission school — Tirumal Naick's palace — Mr. Hutchins — Local water-works — Albert bridge — Local self-government — Levee — Addresses — Departure — En route to Periyar — Cumbum valley — Nature of project — Brahmin Surveyor's adventures — Murder — Remarkable incident — Agricultural labourers — Captain and Lady Eva Wyndham Quin — Shower of rose-water — Return from Periyar — Departure — Dindigul water-works and cigar manufactory — Mr. Heimpel — German enterprize — At Tri chinopoly — Srirangam — Central jail — Health of convicts — Raja of Pudukottah — Mr. Seshayya Sastryar, C.S.I. — Grand anicut — Addresses — Entertainment at Jesuits' College — Lords Dal housie and Mayo — At Tanjore — Palace — Jail — Palace library — Late Dr. Burnell, C.I.E. — Subjects of addresses — Arrival at Madras . . . . . . . . 31

Chapter IV. Calcutta

Voyage to Calcutta — "River of ruined capitals" — "James and Mary" — Our party — Landing at Prinsep's ghaut — Marquess of Dalhousie — At Government House — Legislative Council — Council chamber — Debate — Pacification of Burma — Sir Dinsha w Manikjee Petit — Story of salt tax — Fancy fair — Nepaul Minister — Ceremony of Investiture — Memorials of Lord Mayo — Visit to Barrackpore — Lady Ripon's avenue — Grave — Religious Endowments' Bill — Evening party — Representative Indian men — Meeting of Countess of Dufferin's fund — Viceroy's acknowledgment of Lady Connemara's services— Lady Dufferin's efforts — X CONTENTS. PAGE Lords Mayo and Dalhousie— More speeches — Visits — Sports at Body Guard lines— To Diamond Harbour — On board Rewa — Incidents of voyage — Eclipse ceremony — Arrival at Madras . . 77

Chapter V. Salem

Departure from Madras — Reception at Salem — Opening of Agricultural Exhibition — Mr. Nicholson. — Mr. Dykes — Cattle shows — Former exhibitions — Municipal address — Governor's reply — Sections of show — Alambadi bulls — Kangyam bulls — Nilgai — Pegus and Arabs — " Parfait Amour " — Government stallions — Arabs and Persians — Pony-breeding operations on hills — Agricultural implements — Native and Swedish ploughs — Native harrow — Persian wheel — Native picottah — Vegetable products — Specimens of fibres — Iron-smelting — Spear heads — Animal products — Native manufactures — Palampores — Bricks— Lac - querwareB — Native saddles — Shermadevi mats— Garden party — Mr. Sturrock — Proposed transfer of Coorg to Madras Presidency — Prize-giving at Agricultural exhibition — Departure for hills — Eucalyptus plantations — Sim's Park — Welcome at Charing Cross ,v

Chapter VI. Mysore, Seringapatam, Bangalore, Oosoor, Kolar

Departure from Hills — Our party — Object of tour — Government House, Ootacamund — Scenery en route — Toda herdsmen — Korumbers — Overseer's encounter with a tiger — Maharajah of Mysore's Silladars — Brahmin Superintendent of Police — Tippoo Sultan — Fishers' village — Caste in Modern India — At Nanjengode — Native welcome — Hindu temple — Jain Priests — Story of a Hindu King — Reception at Mysore — Chamundi Hill — An Eastern St. George — Visit to palace — Dusserah festival — Mysore forests — State jewels — Tippoo Sultan's sword — Palace library — Bi-sexual divinities — Picture gallery — Visit to Seringapatam — Cauvery bathing ghaut — Daria Dowlat— Hyder — Colonel Baillie — Paintings on walls — Apothecary cicerone — Meer Saduk — Tomb of Hyder and Tippoo — Return to Mysore — Grove of palms — Duke of Wellington — Maharanee's caste girls' school — Lady Dufferin — Departure — Tales of Seringapatam — At Bangalore — Residency — Mandalay mementos — Social functions — National sports — Sky CONTENTS.

XI PAGE races— Maharajah — Aga Khan — Of local water-supply— Race course — Inspection of Remount depot — At Oossoor — A legend — Hamilton's bones — Stock-farm — Principles of agriculture — Return to Bangalore — Madras Sappers and Miners — Mysore plateau — A story of powder and shot — Departure — Arrival at Kolar road — Hyder's tomb — Social relations among Mussulmans — Inspection of gold mines — Their future — Present prospects — Return to Ootacamund 101

Chapter VII. Malabar, South Canara, Goa, Bellary, Cuddapah, North Arcot And Nellore

Departure from Ootacamund — Passage down ghaut — Railway extension to Calicut — Our party — Corruption in Malabar district — Condition of Laccadives — Rat plagues — Turtle catching — Malabar Tenants' Bill — Waste lands — Sir Charles Turner — Departure from Calicut — Margaret Northcote— Sacrifice Rock — Welcome at Tellicherry — To Mahe — A Brahmin gargoyle — " Presentez armes" — Meaning of Mahe — Its inhabitants — Its constitution — Its Administrateur — Addresses at Tellicherry — Christianity in Malabar — Seikh Zeinud-Deen — Departure — At Cannanore — Addresses — Railway extensions — Ramayanam entertainment — Church service — Local Native Chief — Cheruman Perumal — Convict Kunjen Menon's health — Vanity Fair on Natives as Judges — Employment of Natives in public service — At Mangalore — Landing — Welcome address — Representative institutions — Basel Mission industries — Government schools- Toddy Drawer's deputation — Tiyyans — Levee — Curious features — St. Alosyius' College — Jesuits — Carmelites — Syrian Christians — Their early settlement — Mar Dionysius — Mar Athanasius — Early Christian church — Xavier — Convent of girls' school — Buckrams — Founders of Jesuit College — Concordat — Exhibition of district products — Silver question — Babel of tongues — An anecdote — At Kundapore — Nambudri Brahmin — Mr. and Mrs. Shujaet Ali — Peculiar fishing — Local dwarf — At Honawar — To Gairsoppa — Falls — Visitor's remarks — Lover's raptures — Panther surprised — Ruins of Jain city — Queen of Gairsoppa — Jain temples— Government and Religion — At Karwar — Coasts of Canara — Arrival at Goa — Reception at Government House — Portuguese power in India — Vasco da Gama — State dinner — Constitution of Government— Native Viceroy of Goa — Old Goa — Its Cathedrals— St. Francis Xavier's tomb — Cape Palace — En route to Dharwar — Scenery along railway — At Dharwar — Colonel Lindsay— At Bellary— Stormy weather — Munro Chuttrum— At CONTENTS.

XII FASE Cuddapah — Local Civil Dispensary — Disputes regarding burial grounds — At Renigunta — Addresses — At Chandragiri Palace — ■ Mahant of Tripetty — Ascent of hill — Temple — Sacred hills — Governor's visit to Mahant — Departure — Arrival at Nellore — Dr. Macleane— Levee — Rajas of Venkatagiri and Kalahastry — Latter's establishment — Irrigation works — Civil dispensary — Indian castes — Local Lying-in Hospital — Jubilee memorial — At Venkatagiri — Procession from Railway station — Raja — Arrival at Madras — Results of tour . . . . . . . . . . . . 123

Chapter VIII. Ganjam

By Mr. CLAUDE VINCENT. Bad news from Ganjam district — Famines of 1877 and 1866 — Inaccessibility of district — Means of communication — Causes of present distress — Mr. Garstin's visit — His report — Professional agency works — Civil agency works — Gratuitous relief — Outbreak of cholera — Serious condition of affairs — Governor's departure from Ootacamund — Our party — A mishap — Antonio "killed" — Arrival in Madras — Departure by sea — Calm voyage — At Gopalpur — Dangerous surf — Landing — Luggage-boat capsized — Usual reception — Bishop Tissot — Port of Gopalpur — Condemned pier — Examination of inhabitants — Results thereof — Cholera cases — Drive to Rambha — Mr. Minchin — Anecdote — At Berhampore — Supply of seed-grain — Purchase from Godavery — Visit to jail — Uriyas — Their caste observances — At Aska — Mr. Minchin's Sugar factory — Great heat — At Russellkondah — Maliahs or Hill Tracts — Idyllic jail — Khonds — Their customs — Religion — Meriah sacrifice — Its origin — At Ichapur — Health of party — Queen's sympathy — At Kanshili — Zemindar of Parlakimedi — Addresses — Embarkation — Scene at Baruva — Results of Governor's visit — Real preventive of famine — East Coast Railway — Sanction for its survey — Stormy voyage — Arrival at Madras — Return to Ootacamund — Governor's official minute .. .. .. .. 173

Chapter IX. Tanjore And South Arcot

By Me. CLAUDE VINCENT. Departure from Ootacamund — Our party — Arrival at Trichinopoly — Mrs. Shujat Ali — Municipal address — At Negapatam — Meaning of Negapatam — Visit to South Indian Railway workshops — CONTENTS. XIII PAGE Municipal address — Karikal — Its early history — Story of Yanam — Mottos — At Karikal — At Tranquebar — Mr. Ratnaswamy Nadar — Major Helmich's tomb — Barthelom Ziegenbaig — Evening ser vice — Representations of Last Supper — Visit to Nagur — Return to Negapatam — Arrival at Kumbhakonam — Meaning of name — Cauvery waters — Government college — Higher education — Reception at Railway station — Native entertainment — Busy day — Town en fete — Hail, hero of Ganjam — Visits to institutions — "Young India's" manners — Mr. Seshaya Sastryar — Ceremony of weighing against gold — Interesting picture — Sports at Eum - bhakonam college — Exhibition of local manufactures — -Caste girls' school — Incident — More addresses — Gambling in district — A story — Tank illuminations — Departure — At Cuddalore — Its early history — Fort St. David — Rama Raja — East India Com pany — Fall of Madras — Dupleix — Collector's house — Clive' s attempt at suicide— French in Pondicherry — Victories of peace — Addresses — Visit to Fort St. David — Arrival at Guindy Park . . 196

Chapter X. Calcutta, Darjeeling, Allahabad, Simla, Quetta, Kurrachee And Bombay

Governor embarks for Calcutta — Our party — Arrival at Hoogly — Saugor island — Landing at Calcutta — Conference with Sir Steuart Bayley — East Coast Railway — Journey to Darjeeling — Darjeeling railway — Scenery en route—" Shrubbery" — Maha Raja of Cooch Behar — Himalayan snows — Kangchenjinga peak — Observatory hill — Senchal hill — Sikkim frontier expedition — Tibetians — Chinese amban — Connaught Rangers — Tiger Hill — Mount Everest — Bazaars — Bhooteans — Lepchas — Buddhist temples — Best Lama twist — Curious reb'gious ceremony — Kurseong — Arrival in Calcutta — Local opium dues — Allahabad — Visit to fort — Junction of Ganges and Jumna — Mr. Justice Straight — Agra — Fort — Akbar's tomb at Secundra — Taj by moonlights — Saharunpore — Umballa — General Galbraith — Black Mountain expedition — Kalka — En route to Simla — Himalayan trees — Lilliputian rice-fields — Sonawar — Dagshai — Solon — Arrival at Simla — Viceregal lodge — Goorkhas — Jutogh battery practice — Wiltshire regiment — Prospect hill — Sutlej and Jumna — Fakir — Kerosine oil tins — Busy days — Departure from Simla — Arrival at Lahore — Lieutenant Governor's house — Cathedral — Mayo hall — Shalimar gardens — Fort — Sir James and Lady Lyall — Camel-riding — Mosque — Tomb of Runjeet Singh— Sikh Bible— Fort armoury— Durbar hall — Departure from Lahore — Rohri — Lansdowne bridge — Bukkur— Sukkur— Indus— Sadh Bela— Sindhis— Sind-Pishin line— CONTENTS.

XIV PAGE Chappar rift— Bostan — Kilah Abdulla — Khojak pass — Khwaja Amran Mountains — Beloochistan — Khelat territory — Quetta — General Sir George White — Sir Robert Sandeman — Fort — Market — Parsi merchant — Anecdote — Durbar — Duranis — Popalzais — Barukzais — Presentations — Governor's speech — Sirdar Asad Khan— Benefits of British rule — Baleli— Gulistan — Railway from Kilah Abdulla — Kandahar — Punj aubis — Pathans — Shalibagh — Old Chaman — New Chaman — Murder of Captain Harris — Book on thieves — Headman of Kasee village — Brahui entertainment — Departure from Quetta — Sir James Brown's railway — Chappar rift — Hurnai route — Sibi route — Bolan pass — Babar Kach — Ruk junction — En route Kurrachee — Tragic occurrence — Sehwan — Kotri — Manora headland — At Kurrachee — Frere hall — Campanile — Signboards — Saint and his crocodiles — Sind population — Local buildings — Trade — Embarkation — Dwarka — Somnath — Bombay harbour — Reception at Apollo Bunder — Duke of Connaught — Sir Harry Prendergast — Bhore ghaut — Arrival at Madras 209

Chapter XI. Coconada, Rajamundry, Ellore, Bezwada, Singareni And Hyderabad

Duke of Clarence's departure from Madras — Grain riots in Southern districts — Object of tour — Our party — On board S.S. Sirsa — Madras harbour — H.M.S. Boadicea — Sir Edward Freemantle — Coast of Masulipatam — Its historic associations — Colonel Forde —Marquis de Conflans — Religious wars — Secular wars — English and Dutch at Masulipatam — Charles II — At Coconada — Harbour — Trade of port — Plan of East Coast Railway — Chamber of Commerce — Steam dredger Connemara — Local self-government — Female medical aid — Agricultural Loans Act — By canal to Rajahmundry — S.S. Arthur Cotton — Scenery en route — Godavari Irrigation Works — Dowlaishweram — Incident of journey — S.S. John Mullins — Landing — At Rajamundry — Peepshow — Departure for Gorge — Hero worship — Mr. Puckle — General Haig — Marquess of Tweeddale — Scenery en route — S.S. Victoria — Local tobacco — Shipwreck — Description of Gorge — Sir Charles Trevelyan — Sir Mountstuart Grant Duff — Return to Rajamundry — Rumpa country — Incident of Rumpa rumpus — Mr. Martindale — Lord Guillamore — Human sacrifices to Kali — Hill people — Rajamundry and Rumpa contrasted — Jail — Hospital — Excise system — Ellore — Enthusiastic reception — Primary education — Carpet manufacture— Journey to Bezwada— Pitt and regent diamonds — Story of Sindbad the Sailor— Deccan Mining Company — Tom-tom telephone— Arrival at Bezwada— Anicut— S.S. Alexandra — CONTENTS.

XV PAGE j Tadipalle— Bellary-Kistna State Railway— Singareni— Colonel Orr — Extent and cost of dam — Kondapille toys — Muslin- Halcyon's feathers — Railway communication — Mr. Arundel East Coast Railway— Future of Bezwada— Afternoon reception- Deputation from Nizam— Mr. Harrison— Buddhist cave temple —Mr. Wolfe -Murray— Ascent of hills— Kali temple— Brahmin priest— Tiled houses— Two devotees— Illuminations of town- Excise system— Operations of Agricultural Loans Act— House tax— Local Punchayets— Departure— Nizam's Railway saloons— Kumumett— Nawab Badr-ud-Dowlah— Conditions of British and Native rule — Singareni coal mines — New year's day — Arrival at Hyderabad— Reception at Railway station— Visits from Nizam and minister— Nizam's Palace— Char Minar— Char Mahala— Titles — Title of Nizam — Fireworks — Illuminations — Second names of cities— Nawab Afsar Jung— Fort of Golconda—Brad laugh's Congress speech— Congress agencies— Nawab Vicar-ul- Oomrah — Falaknumah — Lucknow modellers — Features of tour — Return to Madras . . . . . . . . . , , . , . 250

Chapter XII. The Eurasian Settlements Of Whitefield And Sausmond

Eurasian problem — Whitefield and Sausmond — History of settlements — Mr. D. S. White — His " Guide Book" and project — Maharajah of Mysore — Mr. Glenny's report on Colonies — Sir Dennis Fitzpatrick's opinion — Mr. Gantz — Governor's arrival at Kadgoodi — To Whitefield — Settlers interviewed — Sir Oliver St. John — Address — Characteristic holdings — Sergeant Crooks — Leases of holdings — Sausmond — Results of inspections . . . . 298

Chapter XIII. Tanjore, Trivalur, Chingleput, Conjeeveram Bezwada And Cumbum, South Arcot

MAYAVERAM-MUTTUPETT AND EAST COAST RAILWAYS. Dispute at Courtallum— Railway tour— Our party— Departure from Ootacamund— Mangosteen— Burliar— Nilgiri Railway— At CONTENTS.

XVI PAGE Mettapolliem— Karur— Amravati— Trichinopoly— Srirangam— Orloff diamond— Czare witch's approaching visit— Wages in dis trict—Price of rice— Jesuit Mission— Ex-Mahant of Tirupati— Raja of Puducottah— Ayanar temples— Arrival at Tanjore—Dis trict officials— Oleander — Palace troopers— Vallam— Ranees — Sivajee— Serfojee— Missionary Schwartz— Ekojee— Late Princess —Jail— Hospital— Curious petitions— Palace— Armoury— Durbar hall— Library— Late Dr. Burnell— Marco Polo— Lord Napier- Bishop Heber— Flaxman's statue of Serfojee— Oriental luxury- Capital of Cholas— Country of Sholas— Line from Tiruvarur to Muttupett— Mayaveram— Muttupett Railway— Ceremony of cut ting first sod — Lord Connemara's speech — Tanjore settlement — Bernier and Tavernier — Sir Charles Trevelyan — Tamil cooly — Local water-supply — English-speaking power — Local officials — Arrival at Chingleput — Visit to Reformatory — Tamil lyric — Con jeeveram — Dr. Buchanan — Sankara Charriar — Ramanuja Char riar — Sanctity of town — Vishnu temple — Address from Sanscrit school — Prince of Wales — Professor Max Muller — Imperial In stitute — HieunThsang — Weaving operations — Ancient customs — Hindu'mother-in-law — Vegavati — Jain temple — Customs of Jains — Theatre notice — Wages of agricultural labourer — Bishop Heber — Free Church Mission Girls' school — State interference in marriage customs — Ktesias — Megasthenes — Local self-government — Female medical aid — Countess of Dufferin's fund — Departure from Conjeeveram — Colonel Baillie's defeat at Pullalur — Ghosts — Guntakal — Deputation of Bellary citizens — Corruption in dis trict — Maddikera— Sir Thomas Munro — ' ' Stony wolds of Deccan' ' — Hindu myth — Ramalcotta — Diamond prospecting — Nawab of Banganapalle — Wajra Karur — Tree-tapping system — Mr. Caine — Nandyal lacquer fans — Nallamalai Hills — Highest viaduct — Longest tunnel — Tigers at railway stations — Forest Bismarck — Aborigines of South India — Their early migration — Story of a Police officer — Congress in Kurnool — Cumbum — American Lutheran Mission — " Three Cheers " on paper — Railway stories — Kondavid fortress — Indian Beth Gelert — Feringipuram — Amravati tope — Bellamkonda — Guntur — Adulteration of Indian cotton — Sacrilege — Mangalagiri — Mr. Streynsham Master — At Bezwada — Cutting first sod of East Coast Railway — Mr. Spring's address — Bridge over Kistna — Lord Cross — Lord Lansdowne — Mr. H.G.Turner — Alignmentof line — Arrangements at ceremony — Addresses — Undavilli caves — Mr. Fergusson — Politeness of Telugus — Local self-government — Departure from Bezwada — Cumbum — Tank — Savage cattle — Railway extensions — Ruins of Bijapore — Railway administration during last four years- Opening of Tirvanamalai line — These narratives . . , . . .

Chapter I. North Arcot, Salem, Coimbatore

Departure from Madras— Our party— Gathering at Railway Station— Maharajah of Vizianagram— " Sakuntala "—Forest fires— Address from Hindu Brethren of Wallaj nagar —Arrival at Katpadi — Vellore jail— Lingam Lakshmaji— Fort — Kalyanamantapam— Ex-zemindar of Palcondah— Mission school— Tombs of Tippoo Sultan's relatives— Mussulman Stipendiaries — Reception at Salem — Rev. Mr. Foulkes Salem riots — Curious mottoes— More addresses — Shevapett mosque — Condition of town — Native entertainment — Central jail — Prisoner's petition Local dispensary— Weaving industry— A busy afternoon— Arrival at Coimbatore — Visits to local institutions — Sir Thomas Munro Village MunsifEs' bill — Horse-breeding establishment — At Mettapolliem En route to Hills — Burliar gardens — Mr. Lawson — Colonel Jago Mr. Burrows — Municipal address at Charing Cross — Arrival at Ootacamund.

On March 30th, 1887, we * left Madras for the first time since the Governor's arrival on the 8th of De cember 1886 from England. A very large assembly of * His Excellency the Lord Conne' mara. Mr. Rees, Private Secretary. The Viscount Marsham, A.D.C. gentlemen, European and Native, and of European ladies were present on the platform at 5-30 p.m. to see us start. Members of Council, Maharajas, ex-Dewans of Native States, Military officers, Civil officers, representatives of the Press, all seemed to express a feeling of genuine regret that the Governor was leaving. The presence of the Body Guard of k Lancers in scarlet tunics, well-mounted and well dressed, a general feature of such departures from Madras, was not absent on this occasion. Of the chiefs present on the platform, perhaps the Maharaja of Vizianagram looked the most distinguished.

The night before starting we had sat up till past midnight seeing his theatrical company perform in Sanskrit the well-known drama of Sakuntala, or the missing Ping, in which we have such charming pictures of early Indian womanhood. The Agent of the Railway came with us to Ark<5 nam, where we dined extremely well in the Refresh ment Room of the Railway Company. The Superin tendent of Police met us here, and after leaving the station, the train moved on through the night towards Vellore our destination, and on the way forest-fires, raging in the hills on our left, made the line of march one grand illumination. The outline of the hills was marked in fire. This is one of the evils which we hope the new Forest Rules will prevent. As we passed Arcot, the " Hindu Brethren of Wallajahnaggar " presented a comprehensive address on the platform, which there was no time to answer.

At 10 o'clock we got to Katpadi, the station whence Vellore and Chittoor, the chief towns of the North Arcot District, are reached. Here we were met by Mr. Crole, the Judge, and Mr. Glenny, the Collector, who kindly entertained us for the night in a little camp near the railway station. To those, who have not visited India, it will be necessary to explain that the Collector is the administrator of a district and the agent of Government, and Chief Magistrate within a charge, which may run in Madras Presidency from 2,000 to 10,000 square miles. His somewhat misleading designation is derived from the fact, that he is responsible for the revenue of his district, which may amount to as much as half a million sterling, the largest portion of which is paid as land assessment. Actual collections are made by native officers in every village.

A certain number of such village officers pay in their collections to another functionary, who again deposits them in the treasury of a superior official, having authority over a large number of villages, whose subordinate he is. A certain number of these superior native officers are in turn under the authority of an officer in charge of a division of a district, and the last named officer, and all others in charge of such divisions are subordinate to the Collector, who is personally responsible to the Govern ment. Next morning at 6 o'clock we rode to Vellore and visited first the Central Jail, one of the most important in the Presidency. Colonel McLeod, the Superintendent, and the Medical Officer met us here. We had some conversation with a State prisoner, and with the notorious convict Lingam Lakshmaji, once Agent to the Maharaja of Jeypore in Vizagapatam, once Deputy Inspector of Schools, Author, Pandit, Patron of the drama, Sanskritist, writer of Latin essays, and now undergoing a sentence of imprisonment for forgery.