The Russians on the Amur, its discovery, conquest, and colonisation, with a description of the country, its inhabitants, ...; and personal accounts of Russian Travellers. Illustrated by three maps, four plates, etc

Front matter

NEW WORKS PUBLISHED BT TRUBNER AND CO., 60, PATERNOSTER ROW. COMPANION TO LIVINGSTONE'S TRAVELS. In demy Svo., with a Portrait, two Slaps, and twelve Plates, price 21b. bound in cloth. Travels, Researches, and Missionary Labours, During an Kighteen Years' Residence on the Eastern Coast of Africa, by the Rev. Dr. J. Lewis Kuapf, Late Missionary in the service of the Church Mis sionary Society in Eastern and Equatorial Africa; to which is prefixed a concise Account of Geographical Discovery in Eastern Africa up to the present time, by E. J. Ravenstein, F .R.G.S. "Dr. Krapf and his colleagues have largely contributed Ho the most important geogra phical discovery of modern times — naratly, that the centre of Africa is not occupied, as was formerly thought, by a chain of mountains, but by a series of great inland lakes, some of which are hundreds of miles in length.

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Preface

. The progress of Russia in Asia, her rapid strides in the direction of India, and the acquisition from China of pro vinces far exceeding the British Islands in extent, cannot fail of heing important to a nation with such vast interests at stake in China and the East as England has. In presenting therefore a work on Russian advance on the Amur, within the confines of the Celestial Empire, we feel that we are laying before the public a subject well worthy of their attention. It has been our endeavour to convey a correct idea of the past and present condition of the countries we treat of, their productions, inhabitants, and germs of suture development, — information of value not only to the geographer, politician, or merchant, but also attractive to that daily-increasing portion of the public who find a pleasure in studying the state and prospects of distant countries.

This volume has not been written in a hasty manner, for the mere purpose of meeting publishing demands, but is the result of the progressive labour of several years. We have not only availed ourselves of all accessible publications, a list of which will be found in the Appendix, but have had the advantage of personal communications with Russian officers who themselves took an active share in the opera tions on the Amur. Mr. Luhdorf, established at Nikolayevsk since 1856, imparted to us a great deal of information on the commercial prospects of the country ; and Captain Priitz * In June 1857, we published a paper on the "Russians on the Amur," in Bentley's Miscellany.

PREFACE.

. VIII allowed us to share his experience of a five months' residence at Nikolayevsk. To those gentlemen we beg to tender our hearty thanks. Anxious as we have been to make the book as complete as possible, there will doubtless be shortcomings almost inseparable from a work of this description, and the reader may now and then desire more detailed information than we are able to afford. In all such cases we throw ourselves upon his kind indulgence. Our illustrations are from authentic sources, and may be relied upon as true deHneations of the scenery and the inhabitants. The maps have been drawn expressly for this book, and wiU be found to present many new features, though we frankly admit them to be deficient in some minor particulars. For the orthography of proper names we have adopted the system recommended by the Royal Geographical Society, and employed in the Ilydrographical Office.

The letters a and i are always to be pronounced as in ravine, the o as in go, the _ as in there, and the u as in slate. The diphthong ai or ei as the i in hide. The consonants are pronounced as in English, but kh expresses a guttural. We have avoided the use of foreign names, and terms of weights and measures, as much as possible, and the few which occur are explained in the glossary at the end of the volume. The dates are according to the Gregorian Calendar, which is twelve days in advance of that still in use in Russia. With these brief observations we submit our work to the kind consideration of the Public. 37, Southampton Terrace, Waterloo Road, October, 1861. LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. PLATES. LITHOGRAPHED BY MR. J. JURY. N0- PAGE. 1. Mangun Tomb R. Maack, to face Title. 2. View of Bureya Mountains . . „ to face 179 3.

ViewofDyrki „ ,,182 4. A Mangun Village „ „ 378 WOODCUTS. engraved by mr. w. brewer, with the exception of nos. 19, 20, 25, 29, 32, and 54, which are by mr. John swain. 1. Arms of Albazin, from Description . ..... 45 2. Goldi Sledge R. Maack 96 3. Portrait of General Count Mura vies- Amursky . „ 115 4. View of Aigun, and reception of General Muravief by the Chinese in 1854 Sverbeef 118 5. ViewofMariinsk, 1854 . . * . . . . „ 120 6. View on the Shilka R. Maack 165 7. View below the Bureya Mountains . . . . „ 181 8. Goldi in a Boat „ 183 9. View of Dere, Lower Amur „ 188 10.) (194 11. > Tatar Monuments at Tyr Permikin < 195 12. ) ( 196 13. Nikolayevsk. 1859, from an original sketch by Capt. Priitz . 197 14. Manchu Mill R. Maack 256 15. Goldi Spindle 312 16. Birch-bark Basket „ 305 17. Sleeping Tent „ 335 18.

Goldi Summer Hut near the Sungari . . . „ 338 19. Oronchon Sverbeef 343 20. Manyargs, Woman, Girl, and Man . R. Maack and Sverb6ef 345 2 1 . Manyarg Harpoon R. Maack 349 22. Oronchon Fishing Apparatus, from Description . . . X LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. »0. T1"" 23. Manchu Matchlock R- Maack 350 24. Manyarg Horn . „ 356 25. Manchu > 358 26. Manchu Cart 359 27. Manchu Barge » 363 28. Fishing Apparatus near Aigun „ 363 29. Goldi 366 30. Orochis, from Castries Bay .... La Perouse 367 31. Mangun Belt R. Maack 369 32. Mangun » 37° 33. Goldi Idol » 370 34. Goldi Ear-ring 371 35. Summer Hut at the Usuri Mouth „ 372 36. Birch-Bark Canoe ,, 372 37. Mangun Harpoon „ 373 38. Anvil 374 39. Bellows ,. 374 40. Spear Head „ 374 41. Interior of a Mangun House „ 376 42. Goldi Idol Poles „ 377 43. Mangun Spear ., 379 ■44.

Goldi Spear „ 381 45. Snare „ 382 46. Mangun Idol „ 383 47. The God Pauya „ 384 48. Shaman Tomb „ 385 49. Cradle „ 386 50. Mangun Knife for cutting out Fish-skin Ornaments „ 388 51. No. 1, Mangun Pocket for Tinder . . . . „ 388 52. 2, Mangun Birch -bark Box ...... 388 53. 3, Fish-skin Ornament „ 388 54. Gilyaks , R. Maack and Sverbeef 389 55. Aino Elder La P6rouse 395 56. Aino Tomb v. Siebold 397 57. Aino Burial-place „ 398 58. Orotskos with Reindeer „ 398 MAPS. The Regions of the Amur to illustrate Events of the 17th Century, p. 1 The Regions of the Amur in 1861 .... (at the end) The Lower Amur p. CONTENTS.

Part I

-HISTORICAL. PAGE I. — Manchuria and the Amur previous to the Appearance of the Russians 3 Manchuria 1100 B.C. is inhabited by Tunguzian tribes known to the Chinese as Suchi. The conquests of the Koreans first introduce a certain degree of civilization, and in the seventh century is founded the empire of _Phuhai, which in 925 a.d. falls under the sway of the Kidans, also of Tunguzian origin. The Kidans in turn succumb to the Gin, who reign in China until 1234, when they are overthrown by the Mongol Yuen, who had been called into the country by the Chinese. On the expulsion of the Mongols, a native dynasty, the Ming, ascends the throne of China and subjugates Manchuria ; but they are expelled from Manchuria in 1621 by Nukhatzi, a lineal descendant of the ancient Gin, and who becomes founder of the Manchu dynasty still reigning in China.

II. — First News of the Amur, 1636 ; Poyarkof's Expedition, 1643 to 1646 9 The Russian Cossacks steadily advancing through Siberia, hear for the first time of the Amur, when they stand by the Sea of Okhotsk in 1636. Further information is obtained by Perfirief on the Vitim; and Poyarkof, in 1643, leaves Yakutsk on an expedition to the Amur. He ascends the Aldan, crosses the Stanovoi Mountains, and winters in a Daurian village on the Dzeya. His extortionate conduct CONTEXTS. —

PART I. XII PAGE

causes hostilities with the natives, and his officer, Petrof, meets with a repulse at Moldikichid. Having lost forty men by famine, Poyarkof descends the Dzeya and Amur, aud winters in the country of the Gilyaks, whence he returns to Yakutsk by way of the Sea of Okhotsk. III.— Khabarof, 1647—1652 14 A shorter route to the Amur is discovered by some Cossacks, and Khabarof avails himself of it on his first expedition in 1649. Arrived on the Upper Amur he leaves a small de tachment at one of Lavkai's Forts, and goes back to Yakutsk for reinforcements. On his return to the Amur, 1650, he descends that river with men, storms a triple fortification, surprizes Tolga's village, and builds Achanskoi gorod, where he winters. He is attacked there by the natives, and subse quently by the Manchu. In the ensuing spring he re-ascends the Amur, and at the Bureya Mountains meets with one hundred and eighteen Cossacks, commanded by Chechigin and Philipof.

Nagiba had been sent in advance with twenty men to announce the arrival of these reinforcements, but he missed Khabarof, and descended the whole of the Amur, returning by way of the Sea of Okhotsk to Yakutsk. Kha barof continues the ascent of the Amur, and, on his arriving at the Dzeya, part of his men mutiny, and one hundred and thirty-six out of a total of three hundred and forty-eight desert him. He winters at the Komar. IV— Stepanof, 1652—1661 26 The events on the Amur attract the attention of the Government at Moscow, and Simoviof is sent to make preparations for the arrival of a large military force. Exaggerated reports of the riches of the country cause it to be looked upon as the Eldorado of Siberia, and all sorts of adventurers make their way thither. Khabarof is recalled to be rewarded for his services, and Stepanof appointed his successor.

Stepanof is not able to carry out the instructions of the Government in founding permanent settlements, but continues roving along the Amur and the Sungari. At Kamarskoi ostrog he is besieged iu the spring of 1655 by a large Manchu force. Push- CONTENTS. —

PART I. XIII PAGE

kin, who had been sent to the Argun, prefers joining Stepanof on the Lower Amur ; both winter in 1655-6 at Kosogorsky, in the country of the Gilyaks. Stepanof con tinues his predatory expedition until 1658, when he falls at the mouth of the Dzeya in an encounter with the Chinese. The few remaining Russians evacuate the Amur in 1661. V— Discovery and Occupation of the Shilka, 1652-69 The Cossacks of Yeniseisk push across Lake Baikal, and their reports induce the Voivod, Pashkof, to send Beketof to explore these territories (1652). Beketof crosses the Yablonnoi Mountains, and in 1654 founds Neludskoi ostrog, but want of provisions induces him to join his compatriots on the Amur. Pashkof having been appointed Commander-in-Chief of the Russian settlements on the Amur, leaves Yeniseisk in 1656, and following the footsteps of Beketof, founds Nerchinsk in 1658.

In 1662 he returns to Yeniseisk, being succeeded by Tolbusin. The Amur itself had been forsaken at that time. 34 VI. — Renewed Enterprizes on the Amur. Albazin. 1666 to 1682 38 Chernigovsky, having slain the Governor of Ilimsk, flies to the Amur where he builds Albazin, 1666. He is joined there by others ; villages are founded near the fort, and Albazin be comes a place of importance. The Chinese complain of the encroachments of the Russians, and Milovanof goes on a conciliatory embassy to Peking in 1670, and Spafarik in 1675. In spite of orders to the contrary, the Russians at Albazin again navigate the Lower Amur. They found settlements on the Dzeya, 1676-8. Milovanof in 1681 is appointed governor of these, and builds a fort on the Silimji. A proposed ex pedition into the country of the Gilyaks, does not take place, but Frolof with, sixty-one Cossacks goes to the Amgun, where he constructs a fort.

At the close of 1682 the Russians have settlements at Albazin, on the Dzeya, the Silimji, and the Amgun. VII.— War with China, 1C83 to 1687 45 The Chinese make large preparations to expel the Russians CONTENTS. —

PART I. PAGE

from the Amur. They intercept a detachment of sixty-seven Cossacks, under Mylnikof, above the Dzeya, and then destroy the settlements on the Dzeya and Amgun, taking the garrisons of Ust Zeisk and Tugursk prisoners. They then advance upon Albazin, where they arrive on the 4th June, 1685, and after a blockade of eighteen days the garrison agrees to evacuate the fort, and retire to Nerchinsk. The Chinese having destroyed the fort withdraw to Aigun, where they leave a strong garrison. The Russians return almost in the wake of the Chinese and rebuild Albazin. In the spring, 1686, Beiton is sent on a reconnoitring expedition to the Komar, and gathers information from a prisoner about the rumoured approach of a large Chinese army. He at once returns to Albazin, where the advanced-guard of the Chinese arrives on the 7th July.

The Russians are surrounded in their fort, and offer a vigorous resistance until November, when the siege is raised in consequence of the expected conclusion of a treaty of peace. VIII. — The Treaty of Nerchinsk, 1689 54 Venukof goes on a mission to Peking to arrange preliminaries for concluding a treaty of peace. Count Golovin is appointed Russian plenipotentiary, and leaves Moscow with a large retinue on the 20th June, 1686. On his arrival at Udinsk (28th Sept., 1687), he sends a messenger to Peking to ask the Chinese to fix upon a place for the conference. Selenginsk is chosen, but owing to the disturbed state of the Mongol country, the Chinese are not able to proceed to it, and the place of conference is removed to Nerchinsk, where they arrive on the 11th July, 1689, with a large force by land and water.

Golovin reaches the place on the 18th August, and after several conferences the treaty of peace is signed on the 29th. By it Albazin and the whole of the Amur are ceded to China. IX. - The Amur since the Treaty of Nerchinsk, 1689 to 1848 . 65 a. The Russo-Chinese Frontier ck Chinese Frontier Monuments — Arbitrary extension of the Boundary at the Gorbitza— Punishment of Persons crossing CONTENTS. —

PART I. XV PAGE

the Frontiers — Shobelzin and Shetilofs Expedition — Escape of Exiles across the Frontiers — Inspection of the Boundary by the Chinese. b. The Russian Mission at Peking 71 The Russians taken Prisoners on the Amur are settled at Peking — The Russian Clerical Mission instituted by the Treaty of 1727 — Present Position of the Mission (See also p. 449). c. The Amur and Sakhalin under the Dominion of China . 73 Government and Military Forces — Tribute — Sakhalin — Trade — Chinese Immigration. X. — The Romish Missionaries in Manchuria . . . .78 M. Verolles is appointed Vicar Apostolic of Manchuria in 1838, and with his sanction M. de la Bruniere undertakes a journey to the country of the Shang-mao-tze on the Amur. In May, 1845 he leaves Kai-cheu in Leaotong, and passing the newly-founded town of Asheho, proceeds to Sansin on the Sungari, whence he makes an excursion to Susu, a Goldi village lower down.

He describes the Goldi " Fish-skins " living there, and the mode in which the Manchu collect their tribute. The arrival of some Manchu officials induces him to return to Sansin, whence he proceeds to the Usuri, and lodges in the hut of some ginseng-seekers. His stay during the winter enables him to become acquainted with the Chinese colonists and the natives. In the spring of 1 846, he descends the Usuri and Amur, but is murdered by the Gilyaks. In the mean time the mission in Southern Manchu ria makes progress, and M. Venault establishes himself at Asheho. The Christians are persecuted, but peace is restored in 1850, and M. Venault resolves to clear up the fate of his late fellow-labourer. By way of Sansin he proceeds to Imma on the Usuri, descends that river and the Amur to beyond Pui, and near Hutong concludes an act of reconciliation with the murderers. He hears here for the first time of the appearance of Russians. His return journey is attended by considerable hardships. CONTENTS —

PART I. PAGE XI.

— Recent History of the Amur 113 Proposals for re-occupying the Amur are made soon after the conclusion of the Treaty of Nerchinsk, but not until 1847, when Count Muravief is appointed Governor-General of Eastern Siberia, are steps taken towards it. Vaganof is sent to explore the Amur, and a naval "Amur Expedition" com manded by Admiral Nevilskoi is sent to the mouth of the river. Petrovsk, Nikolayevsk, Mariinsk, Alexandrovsk and Constantinovsk are founded between 1850 and 1854. 1854—5 117 Count Muravief conducts the first Russian Expedition down the river chiefly to supply the Russian squadron in the Pacific with provisions. The Chinese do not offer resistance. Muravief meets Admiral Putiatin in Port Imperial, and re turns by way of Ayan to Irkutsk. War is declared against Russia by England and France.

The results of the naval campaign of the latter are insignificant. The attack upon Petropavlovsk is unsuccessful, and the Russians effect their retreat to Castries Bay. 1855—6 125 Three military expeditions descend the Amur, and colonists are settled between Mariinsk and Nikolayevsk. The allied squadrons are commanded in that year by Admirals Bruce and Sir James Stirling. The former enters the harbour of Petropavlovsk, and then sends three vessels to Ayan. Com modore Elliot in May sails up the Channel of Tatary and finds the Russians in Castries Bay, but they escape during a fog. At Cape Crillon he joins Sir J. Stirling, and the whole squadron then proceed to the Sea of Okhotsk, where they capture a Russian brig, and the Greta. The fleet returns to the south, and Commodore Elliot a second time sails up the Channel of Tatary.

Urup is taken possession of in the name of the Allies. (A battalion of infantry starved to death, 449). 1856-7 136 News of the conclusion of peace arrive in July, and the Russians are left unfettered to carry on their plans. Count Muravief secures large means at St. Petersburg. Four stations are formed along the Amur, a postal service is arranged, and two small steamers arrive from America. CONTENTS — PART IT. XVII PAGF. 1857—8 139 Count Muravief returns to the Amur. Large bodies of troops descend the river and form stations along its banks. Captain Furruhelm avails himself of the newly-opened communications to convey provisions to the Russian settlements in the Pacific, and the United States send a commercial agent. Count Putiatin sets out on a mission to Japan and China, but is not successful in concluding a boundary treaty with the latter.

The Amur regions are erected into the " Maritime Province of Eastern Siberia," and another squadron leaves Kronstadt for the Pacific. (See also p. 450). 1858 143 Count Muravief concludes the Treaty of Aigun, 28th May, and Count Putiatin that of Tientsin on the 13th June. Bla govesh'chensk, Khabarovka and Sofyevsk are founded. The Amur Province is separated from the Maritime Province and the Cossacks are organised. The naval force in the Pacific is still further increased. The Amur Company founded. 1859—60 147 Colonisation is encouraged. Stations are formed along the Usuri and Sungachan and a surveying corps is sent there. German colonists leave European Russia for the Amur. Count Muravief for the fifth time descends the Amur. The Chinese, after the affair of the Peiho, assume a hostile attitude, but after the occupation of Peking by the Allies they are glad to sign a treaty, 14th November, by which the Amur and the coast of Manchuria are ceded to Russia. (See also p. 450). The Regions of the Amur in 1861 154 Political Divisions. Population. Military strength. Naval force in the Pacific. Telegraphs.

Part II. Geographical, Statistical And Commercial, XII

— Geographical Description of the River Amur Introductory; the Amur from Ust Strelka to Albazin, 166; Albazin to the Dzeya, 168 ; Blagovesh'chensk to the Bureya Mountains, 175 ; The Bureya Mountains, 179 ; Prairie Region CONTENTS —

PART II.

PAOœ of the Lower Amur, 181 ; From the Usuri to the Bokki Mountains, 184; Bokki Mountains to Mariinsk, 187 ; Sofyevsk to Castries Bay, 190 ; Mariinsk to Nikolayevsk, 192 ; Liman of the Amur, 200. - XIII. — The Country North of the Amur 202 Middendorf's Journey from the Sea of Okhotsk to Ust Strelka, 203 ; Usoltzof's Journey to the Source of the Gilui and to the Dzeya, 212. XTV. — The Country South of the Amur. The Coast of Manchuria 224 Port St. Vladimir — Port Imperial — Ternay Bay — Bullock Bay — Sybille Bay — Port St. Vladimir — Port Sir Michael Seymour or Olga Bay — Victoria Bay — Tumen river. (See also p. 451). The Coast Range 232 The Usuri 233 Source — Sungacha — Lake Kingka — Veniukof s exploration. The Sungari 259 Source — Basin — Girin — Nonni — Maximowicz's attempted exploration.

XV. — Sakhalin 265 Extent — Interior— Aniva Bay — East Coast — West Coast— Schrenck's Journey. XVI. — Climate _ 275 General Considerations— Dauria — The Upper Amur, Blagovesh'chensk— The Usuri. (See also p. 451)— Mariinsk and Nikolayevsk— The Channel of Tatary— Sakhalin. XVII. — Mineral Productions 285 XVIII.— Plants _ 288 Statistics of Plants, 288 ; Physiognomy of Vegetation, 292 ; Food Plants, 294 ; Trees, 299 ; Medicinal Plants, 308 ; Miscel laneous, 311. XIX. — Animals . . „. - . 315 Mammals, 310, 452 ; Domestic animals, 317 ; Game and Fur bearing animals, 320; Birds, 324; Fish aud Reptiles, 334 ; Insects, etc. CONTENTS —

PART II. XIX PAGE XX.

— Native Inhabitants 388 Language — Manner of Life — Chinese names of tribes — Popu lation. The Tunguzians ofthe Upper Amur, Oronchons and Manyargs . 343 Territory, 343 ; Reindeer and Horses, 343 ; Chinese influences, 344 ; Features, 345 ; Dress, 346 : Manner of Life, 347 ; Habitations, 348 ; Fishing, 348 ; Hunting, 350 ; Religion, 351 ; Nomadic Tunguzians of the Angara, and how they spend each month throughout the year, 351 ; Solon, 357. Manchu, Daurians and Chinese 358 Territory, 358 ; Appearance, 359 ; Dress, 360 ; Houses, 360 ; Idols, 361 ; Temples, 362; Fishing, 363; The Daurians on the Nonni, 364 ; Targachins, 365. Tunguzians of the Lower Amur, Goldi, Manguns, Orochi . . 366 Territory, 366 ; Appearance, 367 ; Dress, 368 ; Fishing and Summer habitations, 371 ; Winter habitations, 376 ; Idols, 377 ; Bear cages and Bear hunts, 379 ; Snares, 380 ; Religious notions and Idols, 383 ; Artistic Instincts, 388.

The Gilyaks 389 The Aino 392 The Oroke, or Orotskos of Sakhalin 398 XXI. — Commercial Resources and Germs for their Development 400 Productions : vegetable, mineral and animal — Manufactures — Commerce with neighbouring countries — Transbaikal and Siberia, 404; Kiakhta, 410; Japan, 412; Communications, 412 ; Government, its Merits and Shortcomings, 415 ; Amur Company, 421 ; Imports, 425 ; Exports, 428.