The Handwriting of God in Egypt, Sinai, and the Holy Land: the records of a journey from the great Valley of the West to the Sacred Places of the East. ... With maps, diagrams, and ... illustrations

Front matter

THE HANDWRITING OF GOD IN- EGYPT, SINAI, AND THE HOLY LAND: THE RECORDS OF A JOURNEY FROM THE GREAT VALLEY OF THE WEST TO THE SACRED PLACES OF THE EAST. BY REV. D. A. RANDALL. WITH MAPS, DIAGRAMS, AND NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS. "QCflt H&nibtxst us tt* of ©oil, sn& all objMts art Snor&a (it IV PHILADELPHIA: JOHN E. POTTER & CO., 617 SANSOM STREET. CHICAGO, III.: J. W. GOODSPEED A CO.: PITTSBURGH, Pa. : J. W. RHULE & CO. 1867. Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1862, by D. A. RANDALL, In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States, for the Southern District of Ohio. TO MY CHURCH, TO WHOSE SYMPATHY, ENCOURAGEMENT AND PRAYERS, I AM DEEPLY INDEBTED . TO MY SUNDAY-SCHOOL, WHOSE KIND REMEMBRANCES DURING MY JOURNEY, AND WELCOME GREETINGS OS MY RETURN, HAVE BEEN LIKE SUNLIGHT UPON MY HEART : TO MY FAMILY, FOR THEIR PROMPT AND CHEERFUL AID IN MY TRAVELS AND LABORS: AND TO MY NUMEROUS FRIENDS, FOR THEIR.

ACTS OF KINDNESS AND WORDS OF CHEER, THIS VOLUME IS AFFECTIONATELY INSCRIBED. WITH THE HOPE THAT THEY MAY ALL ENJOY AS MUCH IN THE READING, AS THE AUTHOR HA8 IN COLLECTING AND PBEPARING THE CONTENTS OF IT.

Introduction

. Why another book of travels and observations in the East ? Has not the ground been traveled over, again and again, and book after book been written? What new, interesting, or in structive, can be presented ? The writer is aware that many questions of this kind will arise, on reading the title-page of this book. He apprehends many will think the effort an unnecessary or superfluous one ; still, he has resolved to give the public the book. 1. Because books, in the present condition of society, have become an essential requisite for the dissemination of knowl edge, the promotion of morality and religion, or the increase of the pleasures and enjoyments of the public. If the labor thus demanded is one of duty, the author should not shrink from bearing his share ; if one of profit or pleasure, he has as good a claim to the privilege of writing and publishing as any other one. 2.

The countries of which this book treats are those of in tense interest to all classes of persons. Here are the records and monuments of the early ages of the world. Here are his toric pages of which none should be ignorant. From these, new lessons are continually being unfolded. Here God has left the traces of his footsteps, the handwriting of his power, and the memorials of his mighty wonders. 3. A book of travels, if written with taste and skill, will always be an interesting and instructive book. Each succeed ing person, in his visit, will view things and scenes iu new aspects ; catch the inspiration of new thoughts and lessons ; and bring truth to at least some minds, arrayed in new and in viting drapery. 4. Many of the books on the East are too learned for VI

INTRODUCTION.

. popular use ; abounding in Greek, Hebrew, and Arabic tech nicalities, and devoted to the discussion of disputed questions, they may be of great importance and highly useful to the scholar, but they do not interest the great mass of common readers. Others, again, pass so rapidly from place to place, and are so general in their descriptions, the reader gets but very imperfect ideas of scenes and localities. These extremes the writer of this work has designed to avoid. It has been his object to select the most prominent and important things, and to describe them in a plain and familiar style, with definiteness and par ticularity, and to condense into the work what he supposes the common reader would most desire to know. He has not in dulged in learned dissertations, or critical discussions ; has not endeavored to settle controverted questions, dates, and locali ties; indeed, it has not been his intention to make a book for the learned or the critical, but to give the public a volume to interest and instruct the family and the common reader. 5.

Thousands of persons have not read the books that have already been published ; not because they have no desire to read, but because they have not been brought within their reach. Many of these works have had a wide circulation, and have done great good, arid yet multitudes have not been reached by them. The present volume, from circumstances of au thorship, publication, and the personal relations of the writer, may reach and influence many that other works have not reached, and thus add something to the general amount of good accomplished. 6. This book is designed to be different, in several particulars, from others that have preceded it. If it were not, the author might spare himself the labor of writing and the expense of publishing. It is designed not only to present the interesting and exciting incidents of travel, but to connect with the scenes and places visited the most prominent and instructive historic events that have characterized them ; drawing from them illus trations of scripture, events of history, sketches of biography, and, more especially, the important moral lessons they are calculated to suggest, aud such as it is hoped will benefit the heart and the life.

INTRODUCTION.

. VII 7. Because there is yet much to be learned, and deep im pressions to be made, from the new revelations that are con tinually coming to us from these ancient and sacred localities. God has kept two copies of his historic records of our race. One was written on parchment and put into the hands of man. It has been watched over with jealous care, strangely preserved, and handed down from generation to generation. The other was written on monumental records, the sculptured tablets of now extinct nations, and buried beneath the crumbling piles and moss-grown mounds of ruined cities. The wasting ravages of war have rolled over it ; the foot of the ruthless barbarian has trampled it ; the elements in their fury have combined for its destruction. And yet, during the long lapse of ages, his omniscient eye has watched over it, and his almighty hand has guarded it ; and lo ! in his own appointed time he lifts the vail, and page after page comes up from the disentombed cities of antiquity — from Babylon, and Nineveh, and Egypt, and Syria — and the two books lay their testimony side by side, and both conspire to establish the testimony of God.

None can be too familiar with these things. The present aspects of the countries through which this book will lead the reader, the present condition of the people, the majestic ruins, the time-worn monuments, entombed cities and temples, will all speak with an instructive and impressive voice. They will talk to us of things grave and serious in antiquity ; they will teach us important and interesting lessons in religious faith ; they will' give us visions of things majestic and glorious in promise. Some of these lessons it is the design of this book to record for the benefit of the reader. These reasons the writer deems a sufficient apology for giving a new book to the public. In preparing it, he has had before him the works of a large number of authors who have preceded him in a similar labor.

From these he has been enabled to gather many facts and hints, that have materially aided him in improving and enriching the work. He has not deemed it necessary to burden the pages by continued reference to the works thuB consulted. In using them, he fiuds, in collating diflerent authors, he has only done what others have done be-

INTRODUCTION.

. VIII fore him. To one only would he in particular acknowledge his indebtedness— Murray's Guide Books. His Handbooks of Egypt, Syria, and Palestine, were his constant companions in his travels, and have been used by him in the preparation of his notes for publication ; and he has often been surprised at the fullness, particularity, and accuracy of the information they contain. No visitor in those lands should be without them. The illustrations found in the work have been selected be cause they are illustrations. A number of them have been pre pared expressly for the work, and all of them contain accurate views of the places they are designed to represent, as the au thor can testify from personal observation. They have been inserted, not merely as embellishments to adorn the work, but as helps, to enable the reader to obtain correct ideas of import ant localities.

Where maps and diagrams were necessary to illustrate the text, they have been prepared. These things have added materially to the expense of the work, but will be of great value to the reader. For the convenience of those who wish to have the work bound in two volumes, it has been divided into two parts — one on Egypt and Sinai, the other on the Holy Land ; and the pag ing and indexing have been made to correspond to this arrange ment. And now the journey has been completed, the laborious task of writing ended, and the work is placed in your hands. The author, in his travels and in his labors, has not been unmindful of his dependance on Him whose favor alone can give success. May His blessing attend the work, and may it prove a source of interest, instruction, and moral improvement, wherever it goes EGYPT AND SINAI.

" Egypt shall be a desolation, And Edom shall he a desolate wilderness, For the violence against the children of Judah, Because they have shed innocent blood in their land." Joel, iii. 19. "O, all-preparing Providence divine! In thy large book what secrets are enrolled? What sundry helps doth thy great power assign, To prop the course which thou intend'st to hold I " Drayton. EGYPT AtfD SINAI.

Chapter I

Columbus to Boston — Voyage Across the Atlantic. On the third of January, 1861, I left the depot at Columbus, Ohio, for a tour in Bible lands. Eefreshed by a night's rest among my friends in Cleveland, at ten o'clock the next morn ing I was again upon the cars, whirling onward toward Buffalo. A slight fall of snow during the night had carpeted the earth, and festooned the forests, and clothed the hills in a beautiful drapery of white. Upon one side, as we passed, was first the high bluff bank crowned by the city, then the level open country, dotted over with neat farm-houses, while occasionally a thriving village nestled among its forest of shade trees, and lifted its lofty church spires toward heaven. Upon the other hand was the broad expanse of the Erie. The shore was bounded by a heavy lock of ice, reaching a mile or more from the land ; beyond that a blue line of water, then another girdle of ice ; while beyond all, the white-capped waves and the fleecy clouds, wearing the peculiar blue and hazy cast of winter, seemed to meet and blend in cold and solemn grandeur.

The morning was frosty but bright, invigorating, and beautiful, though all nature was girt with the sullen aspect of winter. The swiftwinged cars go thundering on. I sit a stranger in the midst of strangers, buried in the solitude of my own reflec tions. I had left my home for a long absence and a tedious journey. The perils of the ocean, the hardships and privations of desert routes, dangers from hostile tribes, and exposure in uncongenial climes, like frightful spectres, were staring me in the face. I had just exchanged the parting tokens of affection with my family and the friends that I loved — my church and kindred in Christ — who not only had a stronghold upon my affections, but who, in the tokens of regard and kindness shown me in view of my departure, had added indissoluble ties to the bonds that united me to them.

My thoughts wandered back to the home and kindred I had left, aad then dashed forward into the future Brighter hopes and more pleasant visions are luring me onward. Is it possible I am so near realizing the cherished anticipations of many years? Am I really to visit the land of patriarchs, prophets, aud apostles — to revel in thought amid the scenes of Bible history ? ' Am I to see Egypt, and gaze upon the home of the ancient Pharaohs — walk over the land watered by the sweat and tears of captive Israel ? Am I to visit the Holy Land — press with my feet the soil where Jesus walked, labored, wept, and died ? The thought of these thino-s uro-e me onward. The past may be saddened by the thought of parting scenes, but it is perfumed with the remembrance of fraternal and Christian love. The future may have its doubts and clouds, and anxious fears may hang them with a sombre drapery, but they are illu mined with the radiant bow of hope.

Another thought oppresses my mind, and gloomy forebodings rise up around me. It is THE CONDITION OF MY COUNTRY. Political differences and sectional jealousies have long been working like leaven in all parts of the land. Now the fires ot contention, long smothered, seem about to break out in one wild blaze of excitement. The first blow has been struck for the dissolution of this sacred Union, formed in the wisdom and cemented by the blood of our forefathers. Jack Frost (he deserves a more dignified name), with his cold pencil, and a skill no human hand could imitate, had si lently traced upon the car window by my s'ide a beautiful min iature forest — a magical silvery brake of fern, bush, and tree I was absorbed in admiration of this delicate creation, and thinking how easily its frail netting of ice-work could be dis solved by a single breath.

Again my thoughts reverted to the former theme. What reports will I hear from my country REFLECTIONS by the way. 13 while I am gone ? In what condition will I find it on my return ? Will brother rise against brother, and state be arrayed against state, and the clangor of arms be heard where the voice of peace and the fcum of industry has so long been our music? Will the stern tramp of war, and the warm blood of the slain, desolate and stain those fields that have so long yielded us the rich abundance of their harvests? Is this boasted Union, after all, a mere net-work of fancied strength, frail as the picture the morning frost has sketched upon that glass, that a single breath may dissipate ? No, no ! it cannot be. This Union must remain entire. I love the stars and the stripes. I am proud of the flag of my country.

I shall find it in every port I visit. I had rather stand under that, than under the banner of any other nation. It is an ægis of protection ; and the plea, " I am an American citizen," is equal to that urged by the Apostle Paul, near two thousand years ago, "I am a Roman, and free-born." But I cannot record all my reflections as the ponderous loco motive went thundering on, with its head of fire and its comet like train of steam and smoke. Buffalo was passed — Albany left behind — Boston was in sight — we are there. How great the facilities for travel ! A ride of thirty-five hours, at an expense of twenty dollars, and here I am by a cheerful fire, in a comfortable hotel, eight hundred and sixteen miles from home. It is the ninth of January, 1861. I am now standing upon the deck of the steamer Canada, as she lies at anchor at East Boston wharf.

We are just about to launch out upon the cheerless waters of the great deep, in one of the most tempestuous months of the year. Almost involuntarily the question again arises, Why do I go ? Have I sufficient reasons for undertak ing such a journey ? Can I expect, in a brief residence among the ruins and monuments of antiquity, to make any new discoveries, or add any thing to the vast fund of knowledge that has been gathered from these sources ? Can I expect to throw any new light on scripture history and revelation ? Have not Champollion, Wilkinson, and their compeers, done all that is needed in Egyp4 ? Have not Layard and his associates sufficrently opened the long-buried ruins of Nineveh? Have not such men as Robinson, Stevenson, and Stanley, finished the work in Sinai and Palestine ? Why, then, do I go ?

When, some years since, Lamartine went out on a similar expedition, he tells us he went as a philosopher and a poet. Others have gone as men of literature and science. I go simply as a Christian. As such, I wish to visit the places dear to every Christian heart; to stand among the monuments where the ancient people of God toiled ; where Moses wrought his mighty miracles ; to look upon those renowned waters that stood on heaps to make an open passage for the escape of the captive race ; to stand upon the summit of that mount that trembled beneath the awful majesty of a descending God. I want to visit the sacred waters of the Jordan ; to look upon that mysterious sea that rolls its dark and leaden waves, an everlasting monument of the displeasure of God against the doomed cities of the plain ; to visit Jerusalem, Gethsemane, and Olivet.

I want to stand in Bethlehem, where Jesus was born — upon Calvary, where he died ; to weep at the sepulchre where they laid him ; to stand upon the mount from which he ascended to heaven. In als these places I want to take lessons of Him who teaches as never man taught ; to mark the foot steps of the Almighty, and trace the records of his wonder dealing hand. I go, trusting in Israel's God — he will be my protector. My reflections were broken by the loud, sharp cry of an officer of the ship — "all aboard!" Ten o'clock was the time set for our departure. I was pleased to find among the passengers " Father Kemp " and his company of " Old Folks," going out to give a series of concerts in Eu rope. There are about thirty of them, mostly young people, notwithstanding their assumed name. We anticipate the charm of their songs will add much to the pleasure of the voyage.

An ocean ship was to me a novel place, and I had many things to learn. " What is that little flag at the mast-head ? " said I to a man standing near me. " That they call a Blue LIFE ON THE OCEAN. Peter ; it indicates that the ship is to sail immediately." " And what is that flag at the stern ? " " Why, that is the Union Jack, the pride and boast of every British seaman." Forward, looking through their respective port-holes, were two dark-looking Bellona boys, ready primed, to act their part in the farewell scene. Father Kemp assembled his company of Old Folks on the promenade deck, and, in company with their friends, sang " Auld Lang Syne." The last warning was given ; friends has tily exchanged the farewell tokens of affection. I saw many struggling to keep the tear-drop back ; while others gave way to emotions they could not suppress.

I stood alone. No one knew me, or cared particularly for me ; but I was not an unin terested spectator. I dropped a few tears, from sympathy with the rest; for recent experiences had made me keenly suscep tible to the emotions that swayed them. GETTING OUT OP THE HARBOR. All was in readiness. At five minutes past ten o'clock, the ponderous machinery was put in motion — the huge paddle wheels lazily obeyed the mandate — the war-dogs howled a parting salute, and their deep-mouthed notes rolled back over city and bay, till old Bunker Hill and Charlestown seemed roused from their dreamy sleep of peace, and echoed back the notes as a familiar sound of olden days. The Blue Peter came down, and the stars and stripes went up, and we moved slowly out among the shipping of the harbor. It was a clear, beautiful morning, and the waters lay like an immense mirror in the sunlight.

We passed the forts, standing like huge sentinels to guard the passage to the city. At the entrance of the harbor we dropped our pilot, who was taken on board a schooner an chored there to receive him. Onward we went ; shore and city faded away, and disappeared in the distance. I looked out on the wide expanse of waters ; the sea and sky were all the world to us. We were now FAIRLY AT SEA. Both flags were taken in, and things put in readiness for rougher ocean life. For a time we moved on pleasantly. Towards evening a head wind sprung up, producing that rocking motion of the boat that makes sea life so much of a dread to those unaccustomed to the water. Dinners, with many, were disposed of in quicker time than the digestive organs are accus tomed to work. But things this evening did not arrive at any very serious pass.

The worst was yet to come. Thursday. Our head wind changed to aside wind, and we had what the sailors call a chopped sea, producing a very un pleasant motion of the boat. Berths and wash-bowls were in greater demand than edibles. Only eight made their appearance at the breakfast table. I felt myself, during the day, approaching a crisis of some kind, but was determined to procrastinate it as long as possible. I kept on deck in the open air, and resolutely frowned down all signs of rebellion. During the afternoon there were manifest indications that the crisis was at hand, and must be met. Supplied with a mug of warm saleratus water and a wash-bowl, I "turned in," as the sailors say, and the contest commenced. For a time there seemed to be a general revolt and combination among all the internal states, from the boots upward, to secede.

The contest was a serious one, and for a long time it seemed doubtful how it would end ; but at last, from mere exhaustion, hostilities ceased, and quiet was restored. I now determined to keep a strict watch over the subdued provinces, and by withholding supplies, and great caution in the distribution of limited rations, to keep all in subjection. From what I heard going on around me, I was aware I was not the worst sufferer. With some, the agony of the contest was kept up all night long. Saturday, 12th. This morning the clouds broke away, the sun came out ; we had a fair, brisk wind ; all sail was set, and we moved on, under the combined power of wind and steam, at from ten to thirteen miles an hour. We are now nearing Cape Race, a dangerous and stormy part of the coast. Night is closing in upon us.

Dark and stormy-looking clouds are hanging about the horizon, forebod ing no favorable night. Sunday. Our anticipations of rough weather last night have been realized. The captain stood well off from Cape Race, to LIFE ON THE OCEAN. avoid a dangerous reef of rocks lying about one hundred miles from shore. The storm king was abroad during the whole night. We were only conscious, as we lay in our berths, that there was a great commotion of the elements. The ship labor ed heavily through the waves, and rolled from side to side, and occasionally a heavy wave broke over the deck. The captain, faithful to his trust, was on deck all night, and did not leave to take any rest till after seven in the morning. At this time the danger wf.s ccisid >red over, as the w'n 1 had partially subsided, and we were about three hours past the Cape.

But the conse quences were not over to the passengers. Most of those who had recovered from their sea-sickness were overtaken with a relapse, aud a number who had not before been affected were seriously ill. The rules of the company make it the duty of the captain to read, or have read, the Church of England service on 'Sunday. In consequence of the severe labors of the night, this service, usually performed at half-past ten, was postponed till evening, when such as were able assembled in the after-cabin for that purpose. Wednesday, 15th. Monday and Tuesday we had a constant succession of foul weather — tempestuous winds and a boisterous sea. The concert the Old Folks were to give on Tuesday evening was deferred on account of the motion of the ship, and the sickness of most of the company.

Have had a head wind all day, and have depended on the power of steam alone. The wind has been increasing during the afternoon. I observe to night the sky has an angry appearance. The sailors are all busily at work, securing every sail, and making all ready for a storm. A GALE AT SEA. Thursday. Our officers were not disappointed in their last evening's expectations of a gale. Before morning we had it in earnest. We novices in sea life thought we had a severe storm on Saturday night off Cape Race, but the sailors only laughed at us when we spoke of it. In our berths below we only knew that the wind was blowing a gale, that our boat was pitching and tossing about, and we could hear the waves breaking in torrents clear over the top of the cabin above us. About four o'clock in tbe morning, a heavy sea struck the larboard side of our ship.

The concussion seemed like striking against a rock. Some were thrown clear out of their berths ; crockery smashed and rattled; boxes and trunks were dashed with violence across the state-rooms; women screamed, and men jumped from their beds in affright. For a few moments the ship stood perfectly still, as if stiff ened like a bullock struck in the head with an ax ; then the heavy timbers screaked and quivered, and in a few moments more she was dashing headlong onward through the mountain waves. I had an upper berth, and from that time till morn ing I found it difficult to keep my position. I braced myself with my knees, and held on with my hands ; rolled backward and forward, and thus waited for the morning light. I will say, however, that during all this I felt no fear ; not that I had stronger nerves than the rest, but I knew we were now in mid ocean, near a thousand miles from land, that we had plenty of sea room, and that our ship'was so strongly built, she had no thing to fear from wind or wave.

THE OCEAN IN A STORM. As soon as the morning light appeared, I managed to dress myself, though with extreme difficulty, both from dizziness and the motion of the boat. I was determined to get on deck, enjoy the fresh air, and see how old ocean looked, lashed into tempest. I at last succeeded in reaching the promenade deck, and took shelter under the lee side of the great smoke-stack, which not only protected me from the spray, but also kept me warm ; for it threw off heat like a monster stove. The scene to me was a novel one ; and, notwithstanding my sickness and exposure, I stood for more than two hours enjoying the strange grandeur and majesty of the scene. Our great ship was pitching up and down, tossed like a feather in the wind. We rode on huo-e mountain billows of dark leaden color, capped with molten glass, and tipped with silvery caps of foam.

Once or twice the sun broke through the angry clouds, and touched them with LIFE ON THE OCEAN. his golden light, kindling the pearly drops into myriads of sparkling diamonds, and throwing over all the prismatic beauty of the rainbow. I thought I had seen water in its greatest majesty and glory, and in its most impressive exhibitions, at Niagara ; but here was a vastness — a grandeur — an exhibition of sublimity and power, that eclipsed all I had ever seen before. My soul was deeply impressed with the omnipotence and in finity of that God who scooped out this mighty abyss, and filled it with these powerful waters. He hath set them their bounds, and says to them, in their wildest commotion, " Thus far, and here shall thy proud waves be stayed." I heard in the roar of these elements the voice of the Lord God Omnipotent, and re joiced that, terrible as he was, I could call him Father.

The incidents of an ocean voyage have been so often penned, we need not detain the reader by any lengthy narration of them. Through wind and storm, sunshine and calm, with won drous power the ponderous machinery of our ship drove us onward. Again w7e came in sight of land. It was a pleasant and cheerful sight. Cape Clear was passed. Cork harbor was gained. Monday, January 21st, we were steaming along the Irish Channel, enjoying a calm sea and a bright sunshine. At six p. m., after an unusually stormy passage, we dropped an chor in the Mersey, opposite Liverpool, the great shipping emporium of the world. The landing and getting through the custom-house will form a portion of the next chapter. EGTTT AND SINAI. 20