Across American and Asia. Notes of a five years' journey around the world ... Third edition, revised

Front matter

DAIBUTZ Bronze Statue of Budda at Kamak. rapl ' . .mile from in Original Photograph I ACROSS AMEEICA AND ASIA NOTES OF A FIVE TEAMS' JOURNEY AROUND THE WORLD AND OF RESIDENCE IN AKIZONA, JAPAN AND CHINA BY RAPHAEL PUMPELLY tZ .Professor in Harvard University, and sometime Mining Engineer in the service, of the Chinese and Japanese Governments. THIRD EDITION, REVISED. NEW YORK LEYPOLDT.& HOLT Entered according to Act or Conqress in the Year 1S09, by LEYPOLDT & HOLT, In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States for the Southern District of New York. stereottped et TRINTED ET DENNIS ERO'S 4 THORNE, THE TROW & SMITH

BOOK M

'F'G CO, 50 & 52 GREEN STREET, N. X AUBURN, N. T. As so many of the following pages relate to experiences illus trating the wisdom of that diplomatic policy which, in bringing China into the circle of interdependent nations, promises good to the whole world, I dedicate them lo the chief author of that policy — TO ANSON BURLINGAME. MERCATOll CHA11T, SHOWING THE ATJTHOlrS KOUTE. PEEFAOE. After preparing the volume of " Geological Researches in China, Mongolia, and Japan," for publication by the Smithsonian Institution, I was induced to write a simple narration of a journey which encircled the earth in the Northern temperate zone, at a time of unusual interest in several of the countries visited. The social disorganization in Arizona presented a phase of bor der life of the worst type indeed, but most valuable as showing the effect of the absence of the usual restraints upon society.

Preface

. VI knowledge thus acquired I have sought to embody in the chap ter on Western Policy in China. The MS. was finished early in 1868; the policy, therefore, which is recommended in reference to our Indian question was arrived at before the adoption of substantially the same means by the present administration. Those of my readers who are interested in Japanese Art will feel as much indebted to Mr. John La Farge as I am, for kindly writing the chapter on that subject. The cuts facing pages 175 and 180, and the maps of Yesso and of the Yang Ho district, are taken from the Geological Researches in China, Mongolia, and Japan, by permission of the Smithsonian Institution. The wood-cuts are engraved by Messrs. W. J. andH.D. Linton. The lithographic maps and illustrations were executed under the supervision of Mr. J. Bien.

I would express sincere thanks to both Mr. "W. J. Linton and Mr. Bien for the especial interest they have taken in furthering the execution of the illustrations. Finally, I would acknowledge the deep obligation I am under to the many friends abroad and at home who, by hospitality and a thousand kind actions, have smoothed the route of travel and the difficulties of publication. R. P. LIST OF ILLUSTEATIONS. 1. The Daibutz op Kamakura. (From a Photograph.) Frontispiece. 2 The Santa Rita Valley. (From a Sketch by H. C. Grosvenor.) To face page 12 •3. The Saguara. (Cereus giganteus.) " " 3S 4. Daybreak on the Desert. (View from the Tinaje Alta, from a Sketch in the Report on the United States and Mexican Boundary.) To face page 57 5. Crater near Honolulu 69 6. Fuzitama and Iiiosima. (From a Japanese Sketch.) 129 7.

Volcano of Komangadake, from Washinoki 169 8. Method of Washing for Gold * To face page 175 9. Manner of Occurrence of Sulphur * " " 180 10. Change from Polygonal to Spherical Form in Rock Masses*.. " " 180 11. Japanese Wood-Cuts and Color Printing " " 198 12. Japanese Wood-Cu*.3 and Color Printing " " 199 13. Japanese Wood-Cuts and Color Printing " " 200 14. Japanese Wood-Cuts and Color Printing '• " 202 15. Temple of Heaven at Peking. (From a Photograph.) 275 10. Roofs of the Temple of Heaven. (From a Photograph.) 276 17. Gateway before the Altar to Heaven. (From a Photograph.) , 277 18. The Altar to Heaven. (From a Photograph.) To face page 278 19. Ccrean Embassador. (From a Photograph.) 303 20. Attendant of the Corean Embassador. (From a Photograph.) 303 21. Attendant of the Corean Embassador.

(From a Photograph.) 303 22. Marble Arch in the Nan-kau Pass. (From a Photograph.) 307 23. The Great Wall. (From a Photograph.) To face page 30S 24. Mongol 386 25. Mongol Prince 386 MAPS. I. Mercator Chart, showing TnE Author's Route To face the Preface. 2. Map or Arizona To sace page 1 3. Map of Southern Tesso * " " 143 4. Map op the Yang no District.* To accompany Chap. XXIII " " 306 * From the author's 'c Geological Researches in China, Mongolia and Japan." (SinUhson. Inflt. 1868.) CONTENTS.

Chapter I. The Overland Coach

Jiscomsort os a crowded coach— A border family— Dipping— 1. Indian Territory— Parklike scenery in Valley of the Red River— Indian cultivation— Negro slaves held by Indians — Loss of hats — Transition to the prairie lands of Northeastern Texas — 2. From prairie to desert— Visit from the " Regulators "—Prairie dogs and their neighbors— The desert — 3. Camanche depredations — Effects of continued stage travelling — Scenery on the Pecos River— Guadaloupe Mountains— Teams of wild horjcs — 4. Arrival at Tucson — Warm quarters — Dryness and clearness of the air — 5. Masses of Meteoric iron — Valley of the Santa Cruz — Surface structure of the valley — 6. The Mission of San Xavier del Bac— Stock ranches— The Santa Rita Mountains— The Canoa— Tubae— Arrival at the Santa Rita mines— 7. Geography of Arizona— Granite ridges and plains— Geological remarks on Arizona — 8.

Scarcity of surface-water — Influence of climate on the vegetation— 9. Transition from deserts of the coast to the forests of the interior mountains — Cereus Giganteus — Trees of the country — Arizona a good grazing country — Little agricultural land without irrigation — Remains of ancient agricultural civilizatiou on the Gila River— 10.

Chapter II. The Santa Rita Valley

Influence of climate and vegetation upon the scenery of Arizona— Journey to Fort Buchanan — Remarkable escape of a woman from Indian captivity — 13. Fort Buchanan — A man killed by Apaches in sight of the Fort— Subsequent murders at the same place — Previous mining industry at the Santa Rita — Difficulties opposed to mining — Our horses and mnles stolen by Apaches— Repeated attacks — 14. Rumored withdrawal of the troops — How Indian wars are begun — Violation of a flag of truce by U. S. troops — 16. General consternation among the settlers— We determine to abandon the mines- Collecting debts— Journey to the Heintzelman Mine— A load of ore sent to the Santa Rita— Exciting journey back to the mines— 17. Suspicion of treachery— Grosvcnor and myself set out in pursuit of delinquents— Return— 18.

An awful night— Assassination of Grosvcnor— 19. Arrival of troops— Burials— Discouraging prospects— Necessity of an increased force at the mines— 22. Journey to the Fort— A self-recorded murder— A scene of destruction and a race for life— 24. Terrible weapons— Disappointment at the Fort— 25. Return to the Santa Rita— Smelting and lighting— 26. Abandonment of the Santa Rita— 27. CONTENTS. X

Chapter III. The Frontier And The Desert

Frontier morals-29. Prospects of Arizona-Need of improved means of transportation —30. Ferguson's route to Lobos Bay— Harbor of Libertad— Difficulties and needs of metallurgy in Arizona— Fuel— Necessity of immigration— 31. Uncertainty and treachery of Mexican laborers— Partido system of mining— Wages at Santa Rita— Chinese labor recommended— Arizona more a grazing than an agricultural land— Necessity of change in our Indian policy— 32. The cause of our Indian troubles— Needs of a roving population— 33. The extermination policy— Success of the methods followed by Hudson Bay Co. and by the Jesuits— 34. Treatment of Aborigines by Russia and China- Policy recommended in reference to the Indians— How Indian wars are begun by Indian agents— 35. Excursion to the Papagoria— Scenery— 36. Wild horses— Animals on the skirt of the desert— Outpost monuments of the Apaches and Papagos— 37.

Mines of Cahuabi— A village which gets its water drop by drop— A touching Incident of Indian life— The giant cactus and other plants— 38. Irregular mining— 39. Night scenery on the desert— Accident to Washburn— 40. Terrible heat— Narrow escape of Poston— Watching and nursing on the desert^41. Arrival of a wagon— Starting for Sonora— 42. Starving on the desert— Relies— 43. Arrival at Saric— Kindness of the Mexican women —Return to Arizona — 44.

Chapter IV. Closing

SCENES. The massacre at the Canoa— 45. Remarkable escape of William Rhodes— One man against a hundred Apaches — 16. The scene at the Canoa — " Unknown " — 47. Murder of Richmond Jones— Departure from Tubae— 48. Mexican massacre at the Heintzelman Mine —Murder of John Poston— 19. Departure from Arizona— 50. The Gate of Hell— Altar — Productions of Sonora— Caborca— 51. Plot to waylay us— Williams, the frontiersman — 52. Signs of the waylaying party — A revolutionary general — 53. Williams, from a new point of view — Reminiscences of a cut-throat— 54. A string of ears— The heart of the desert — 57. Mummies on the desert — Volcanic cones — 58. Terrors of the Tinaje alte— Heat of the Gila River— Sand-storms on tho desert— 59. A city sounded IK) pay ferryage— Fort Yuma — Beauty os the Yuma women— 60.

Burning the dead — Cations of the Colorado— 61. "One-eyed-Jack" — Williams's plot— 62. Farewell to Williams — Desert of the Colorado — A man in golden armor — 64. Cariso Creek — Parting salutation from the desert— Entrance into Southern California— 65. Growth of California— 66. Engagement of Mr. Blake and the author by the Japanese Government — Acknowledgments— 67.

Chapter V. Pacific Ocean

Departure for Japan— Narrow escape— 68. Approach to the Sandwich Islands— Honolulu— 69. The Pare— Incident and superstition— 70. Geographical sketch of the Sandwich Islands— 71. Productions and Revenue— Influence of European intercourse— 72. Departure from Honolulu— 74. Stormy voyage — 75. First sight of Japan— Entrance to the bay of Yeddo— 76. Arrival at Yokohama— 77. CONTENTS. XI

Chapter VI. Yokohama

Excursion to Kamakura and the Daibutz— 79. Colossal statue of Budda— 80. Temples of Kamakura— 81. Excursion to the Temple of Daishi— 82. Fortune-telling— 83. Japanese dinner— 84.

Chapter VII. Yokohama

(CONTINUED). Geological and geographical sketch of Japan— 85. Japanese chronology and historical outline— 90. The Mikado— 93. Origin of the Tykoonate— 94. Modern history of the Empire— 94. Dissensions caused by the Christians — 96. Interview with the Government — 100. Excursion to the Oyama— 101. Silk-district of Hachiogi— 102. Japanese masonry— Inns and beds— 103. Temple— Adventure at Koyasu— 106. Earthquakes— Shock —Earthquakes of Japan— 107. Phallic symbol — Tokaido— 109. Bikunins — 111. Language— 112.

Chapter VIII. Politics

SToritomo — Taikosama— 115. Organization of the Government— 115. Classification of the population— 117. Balance of power— 119. Causes of trouble with foreigners— 120. Prince of Chosu— 122. Enterprise of the Yeddo Government— Murder of Richardson— 123. Bombardment of Kagosima— 124. Western arrogance— 125. Western policy in Japan— 126.

Chapter IX. Excursions

Wodowara Bay— View of Fuziyama— 128. Inosima— 129. Yeddo— 131. Temperament of the Japanese— 134. The social evil— Japanese houses— 135. Bathing-honscs— Incident in a bath— 137. Diseases— Dust-storm from China— 138. Physicians— Cemeteries— 139. Amnsements— 140. Drunkenness— 141.

Chapter X. Flrst Journey In Yesso

Arrival at Hakodade— First journey inland— 143. Japanese horses— 145. Mines of Ichinowatari— Stamping— Machinery— Metallurgy— 145. Cost of mining and smelting— 146. Method of travelling— Ascent of the volcano of Komangadake— 147. Volcano Bay— Hot springs— 150. Magnetic iron sand— Mines of Kakumi— Umbrella plant— 151. Coast scenery— Geology of the Peninsula— Solfatara of Esan — 152. Sulphur-works of Esan— 153. Infusorial earth— Fnrnace to smelt iron sand— 154. Veins of copper— 155. Intercourse with the offlcials-156. Hara-kiru-157. CONTENTS.

Chapter XI. Religions Of Japan

Sintuism— 158. Sintu festival— 159. Worship of ancestors— 160. Fetichism— Shamanism— 161. Confucianism— Sketch of Buddism— 162. Christianity— 168.

Chapter XII. Second Journey In Yesso

Tho West Coast— 169. Petroleum— Recent strata— The Ainos— 170. Gold washings of Kunnui— 172. Forest growth— The auriferous deposits— Method of washing gold— 173. Ancient gold washings — Festival to the dead— 174. View on Volcano Bay — 175. Official etiquette— Scenery on West coast— 176. Hot springs and snakes— 177. Ascent of Solfatara of Iwaounobori— 178. Geology of the volcano— 179. Sulphur formation— 180. Sulphur works and production— Coal-beds— Marine life— 181.

Chapter XIII. Second Journey In Yesso

The Raiden— Volcanic rocks— 183. Geological structure of Southern Yesso — 1S4. Incident— 1S5. Contrast between imperial and princely domain— Policy of the Tykoonate— Boat journey and scenery— 186. Marine productions— Penitentiary— Hot springs and snakes— 187. Bears — Lead mines of Yurup — Cost of mining — Introduction of blasting with powder — 1S9. Rich mines abandoned in Japan — 190. Termination of our engagement— 191. Hospitality of foreigners— Voyage to Nagasaki— Nagasaki— 192. Cemeteries— 193.

Shipwrecked— 215. Siege of Nanking— The rebellion— 217. General Ward and his soldiers— 220. Chinese Sieges— 221. Scenery on the Yangtz'— 223. Hankau— 224. Wuchang—Preparations for boat-journey— 226.

Chapter XVIII. Boat-journey On The Upper Yangtz'

Fever— Our boat— 229. Tungting lake— Pagodas and Fungshui— 230. Serious adventure with soldiers— 231. Adventure at Changsha— 235. Preparation for famine— 236. Taiping Canal— 237. Curiosity foiled— 238. The gong at home— 239. Opium and its consumption — The Sinian system of mountains — 240. Rocks of the Upper Yangiz' — The Ichang gorge— 241. Enormous thickness of limestone— Climbing the rapids— 242. Lncan gorge — Tho Milan gorge— 244. Devonian limestone — Coal-field of Kwei — Dragon festival— 245. Return— 246.

Chapter XIX. The Chinese As Emigrants And Colonizers

Incentives to emigration and reasons why the Chinese return home — 247. Effect of the Pacific railroad on immigration— 249. Importance of the question from an ethnological point of view — 250. Hostility of the Irish toward the Chinese — The political elemen t in the problem— 251. The Chinese in California— Californian estimates of the value of Chinese labor— 252. The Chineso in Java— 233. Chinese in Singapore— 254. They seem destined to people and develop the wealth of the tropics— 254. Sketch of the Chinese character and political and social principles— 256. The dangers and advantages of unlimited immigration of Chinese into America— 262. The political aspect of the question— 264.

Chapter XX. Peking And Its Neighborhood

Taku— Tientsin— 266. Plain of Chih-li— Sand-storms— 267. Granite Causeways— Walls of Peking— Adventure of Count Rasseloff— 268. Description of Peking— Walk on the Wall— 270. Drum Tower— 272. Cabs— 273. Market of Peking— 274. Temple of heaven— 275. State religion of China— 278. Temple of agriculture — Ceremony of the golden plough— Lapidary work— 279. Curiosity shops— Bookstores— Extent of literature— 280.

Chapter XXI. The Cavern Near Fangshan

Journey-on the plain— 283. Buddist Monastery— The Sacred Cave— 285. Buddist monas- ' teries— 286. CONTENTS.

Chapter XXII. Visit To The Coal Mines

Interview with the Tsnngli-yamun— 287. Commissioned to examine the coal mines— My party— 288. Characteristic scene— Chinese money— 2S9. Geology of the coal district of Chaitang— 290. The mines and coal— 291. Chinese mining— 292. Lions in the path— 293. Wild scenery— 294. Wang's story— 295. Coal-field of Muntakau— An unpopular magistrate— 296. Adventure— 299. Coal-field of Fangshan— Difficult journey through a mine— A meny dinner party— 300. Torchlight journey— 301. An official dinner— Anecdote— 302. Corean Embassy— 303.

Chapter XXIII. Journey Along The Great Wall

Tombs of the Ming dynasty— 306. Nankan pass— 307. Marble-arch— The great wall— 308. Ancient lakes of 'Northern China— An unwilling doctor— 309. Legend of Ki-ming mountain— 310. Coal mines— Public kitchen— 311. Kalgan — Trachytic porphyry — The Great Wall— 313. Ascent to the plateau of Central Asia— 315. A sharply-defined boundary — Influence of the climate on inhabitants of Central Asia — 216. View from a ruined tower — 317. Antelopes — Lost — Lama temple — 318. A caravansery — Stove-beds —319. Dishonesty and honesty— 321. Method of planting— 322. Structure of the plateau— 323. Adventure at a farm-house— 324. Dr. PogojetTs patients— 325. Mongo" dwellings — 326. Lava stream — S27. Adventure with a chieftainess — 328. Diled-up lakes— Valley of the Kirnoor— Ancient water levels— 329. Lama temple— 330.

Buddist Monasteries— Valley of the Te-hai— 331. Mohammedan rebellion— 332. Adventure at Fung-ching— 333. View from the Great Wall— 331. Deep erosion— A mob at Yang-kau— 353. Rapid erosion— 336. The Roman mission at Siwan— 337. Samdad Chiemba— Return to Peking— 338.

Chapter XXIV. Western Policy In China

War of 1840—339. Tbe last war— 340. Fall of Peking— Prince Kung and the revolution— 342. ' Wise conrse of England in the last war— Advantages gained by the treaties— 343. The retaliation policy— 344. Advantages of direct intercourse— 345. The anti-foreign party— The " cooperative policy "—346. Necessity of strengthening the Central Govornment— Danger of the Exterritoriality clause— 347. The Burgevine imbroglio- Ward's soldiers— 349. The foreign customs service— 350. Needed reforms in the administration and judiciary— Adoption of international law— Translation of Wheaton— 351. The Lay-Osborne flotilla— 352. The Regency and the Emperor— 353. Influence ■ of public opinion in China— 354. The Chinese and foreign innovations— 355. The missionary problem— 356. Letter from Sir F. Bruce— 358.

Chapter XXV. From Peking To Nagasaki

An erratic missionary-359. Condition of Christian missions in China— 360.- Preparations for a journey across Asia— 364. CONTENTS. XV

Chapter XXVI

TnE TABLE-LAND OF CENTRAL ASIA. Voyage— Immense numbers of Medusæ— 363. Departure from Peking— 366. Our caravan —Intense cold on the plateau— 307. Mongolian tea— 368. Dryness of the climate— Terrific storms — 369. Our cooking — 370. Our lama— 372. The broad-tailed sheep — 378. The Bactrian camel— Rc-soling a camel's foot — 375. The winter sun on the plateau — 376. The mask of ice— Fierce storm— 377. Fighting against odds— 378. Lamasery — 380. The plateau and the Gobi desert— 3S1. Urga— The Grand Lama— 382. Colossal statue of Budda — Praying machines — The Buddist and Roman rituals — 383. Infln. ence of Buddism on the Mongols— Chinese policy toward Mongolia — 384. Physical characteristics of the Mongols — 386. Kiachta and Maimaichin— 387.

Chapter XXVII. Siberia

Russian baths — 3S8. Gold deposits of Eastern Siberia— Frozen inundations — 3S9. English iron brought from China— Cost of freight from China — Wolves— 390. A Cossack village — 391. National dance — 392. Journey over lake Baikal on the ice— Earthquake of 1861 — Beauty of the ice — 394. The frozen mist — 395. Irkulzk— Yermak and the Russian conquest — 396. Geographical sketch of Siberia — 397. Siberia as a penal colony — Refined society in Siberia — 400. Industries — Trade— -402. Overland tea trade — Importance and practicability of a railway from China to Europe — 403. Vices of the Siberians — 104. Remarkable device for gambling — 406.

Chapter XXVIII. Siberia

(CONTINUED). Preparations for journey to Europe— Methods of travelling— 407. Travelling dress— Intense cold — 109. Siberian inns — 410. 70 degrees below zero— My lady companion— 111. View from the north flank of the Altai mountains— 413. Winter landscape — 414. My companion a second Elizabeth— 415. Trouble at Omsk — 416. Post stations— Russian superstitions — 417. Ekaterinburg— Lapidary work— The gold washings — 418. Methods of washings— 419. Depressing effect of government tax on gold mining— Journey to the iron and copper works of Tagilsk— The iron mountain — 120. Copper ores- Process of sheet-iron manufacture — 421. Effect of emancipation on labor — Departure from Ekaterinburg — 122. Exiles— Crossing the Ural mountains— Kazan — Nijni Novgorod to Moscow— 423. Extremes of climate on the journey— Prospective growth of Russia — 124. Prospective condition of the Chinese at home and abroad — 426.

Appendix

I. Extract from Report of Consul Harvey of Ningpo, to Sir F. Bruce, on the Rebellion — 428.

APPENDIX.

II. Religions bearing of the Rebellion ; by Rev. W. Muirhead— 433. CONTENTS.

APPENDIX.

III. Agricultural productions of the Province of Chihli ; from Report of Mr. Consul Gibsor to the British Government— 439.

APPENDIX.

IV. Aualysis of Chinese and Japanese coals; made for R. Pumpelly by Mr. J. A. Macdonald — 442.

APPENDIX.

V. Tabular statement of the production of the private gold-washings of Trans-Baikalia during twenty years-446.

Chapter I. Arizona

In the autumn of 1860 I reached the westernmost end of the railroad in Missouri, finishing the first, and, in point of time, the shortest stage in a journey, the end of which I had not even at tempted to foresee. My immediate destination was the silver mines of the Santa Rita, in Arizona, of which I was to take oharge, as mining engineer, for a year, under the resident super intendent. Having secured the right to a back seat in the overland coach as far as Tucson, I looked forward, with comparatively little dread, to sixteen days and nights of continuous travel. But the arrival of a woman and her brother, dashed, at the very outset, my hopes of an easy journey, and obliged me to take the front seat, where, with my back to the horses, I began to foresee the coming discomfort. The coach was fitted with three seats, and these were occupied by nine passengers.

As the occupants of the front and middle seats faced each other, it was necessary for these six people to interlock their knees ; and there being room inside for only ten of the twelve legs, each side of the coach was graced by a foot, now dangling near the wheel, now trying in vain to find a place of support. An unusually heavy mail in the boot, by weighing down the rear, kept those of us who were on the front seat constantly bent forward, thus, by taking away all support from our backs, rendering rest at all times out of the question. My immediate neighbors were a tall Missourian, with his Avife and two young daughters ; and from this family arose a large part of the discomfort of the journey. The man was a border bully, armed with revolver, knife, and rifle ; the woman, a very hag, ever following the disgusting habit of dipping — filling the [cnAP. i 2 air, and covering her clothes with snuff; the girls, for several days overcome by sea-sickness, and in this having no regard for the clothes of their neighbors ; — these were circumstances which offered slight promise of comfort on a journey which, at the best, could only be tedious and difficult.

For several days our road lay through the more barren and uninteresting parts of Missouri and Arkansas ; but when we en tered the Indian territory, and the fertile valley of the Red river, the scenery changed, and we seemed to have come into one of the Edens of the earth. Indeed, one of the scenes, still bright in my memory, embraced the finest and most extensive of natural parks. Coming suddenly to the brow of a high bluff we found that we had been travelling over a table-land, while beneath us lay a deep and widely-eroded valley, the further limits of which were marked by distant blue hills. The broad flat bottom-land was covered with a deep-green carpet of grass, arid dotted, at intervals of a few miles, with groves of richly-colored trees. As a work of Nature it was as much more beautiful than the finest English park, as Nature had spent more centuries in perfecting it than the nobleman had spent years.

The fertile country reserved for the Indians is only partially cultivated by them. Although considerable success has attended the attempts to elevate these tribes, the ultimate result of the experiment is by no means certain. The possession of negro slaves by the Indians could not but be attended by even greater evils than the use of this labor among the white population. Before reaching Fort Smith every male passenger in the stage had lost his hat,, and most of the time allowed for breakfast at that town was used in getting new head-coverings. It turned out to be a useless expense, however, for in less than two days we were all again bareheaded. As this happens to the passengers of every stage, we estimated that not less than fifteen hundred hats were lost yearly by travellers, for the benefit of the popula tion along the road.

After passing the Arkansas river, and travelling two or three days through the cultivated region of northeastern Texas, we came gradually to the outposts of population. The rivers became fewer, and deeper below the surface; the rolling prairie-land covered with grass gave way to dry gravelly plains, on which the increasing preponderance of species of cacti, and of the yucca, warned us of our approach to the great American desert. Soon after our entrance into this region we were one morning all started from a deep sleep by the noise of a party coming up at full gallop, and ordering the driver to halt. They were a rough looking set of men, and we took them for robbers until their leader told us that they were " regulators," and were in search of a man who had committed a murder the previous day at a town we had passed through. •' He is a tall fellow, with blue eyes, and red beard," said the leader.

" So if you have got him in there, stranger, you need'nt tote him any further, for the branch of a mesquit tree is strong enough for his neck." As I was tall, and had blue eyes and a red beard, I did not feel perfectly easy until the party left us, convinced that the object of their search was not in the stage. The monotony of the route across the desert was somewhat varied by the immense republics, as they are commonly termed, of prairie dogs. The plains inhabited by these animals were covered by the low mounds raised over the entrance to their burrows, and separated from each other by a distance only of a few yards. As we approached them the animals disappeared ; but at some distance from us, ahead and on either side, thousands of the dogs were visible, each one squatting on the top of a mound, and regarding us with the most intense curiosity.

As we came nearer, one after the other suddenly plunged its head into its burrow, and, after wagging its fat body for an instant, disappeared altogether. Here and there a solemn owl, perched at the mouth of the burrow, or a rattlesnake basking at the entrance in the sun, showed that these dwellings were inhabited by other occupants than their builders. One can scarcely picture a more desolate and barren region than the southern part of the Llano Estacado between the Brazos and the Pecos rivers. Lying about 4,500 feet above tho sea, it is a desert incapable of supporting other plant or animal life than scattered cacti, rattlesnakes, and lizards. Our route winding along the southern border of this region, kept on the outskirts of the Camanche country. Here we were constantly exposed to the raids of this fierce tribe, which has steadily refused to be tamed by the usual process of [CHAP. I. ACROSS AMERICA AND ASIA. 4 treaties and presents.

They were committing serious depreda tions along the route, and had murdered the keepers at several stations. We consequently approached the stockade station houses with considerable anxiety, not knowing whether we should find either keepers or horses. Over this part of the road no lights were used at night, and we were thus exposed to the additional danger of having our necks broken by being upset. The fatigue of uninterrupted travelling by day and night in a crowded coach, and in the most uncomfortable positions, was beginning to tell seriously upon all the passengers, and was pro ducing a condition bordering on insanity. This was increased by the constant anxiety caused by the danger from Camanches. Every jolt of the stage, indeed any occurrence which started a passenger out of the state of drowsiness, was instantly magnified into an attack, and the nearest fellow-passenger was as likely to be taken for an Indian as for a friend.

In some persons, this temporary mania developed itself to such a degree that their own safety and that of their fellow-travellers made it necessary to leave them at the nearest station, where sleep usually restored them before the arrival of the next stage on the following week. Instances have occurred of travellers jumping in this condition from the coach, and wandering off to a death from starvation upon the desert. Beyond the Pecos river the scenery became more varied. The route lay over broad plains, where the surface sloped gently away from castellated and cliff-bound peaks. Here, from an hundred miles away, we could see the grand outlines of the Gaudaloupe mountains, planted like the towers and walls of a great fortress, to render still more difficult the approach to the great wastes lying to the north and east.

Over the hard surface of this country, which is everywhere a natural road, we frequently travelled at great speed, with only half-broken teams. At several stations, six wild horses were hitched blind-folded into their places. When everything was. ready, the blinds were removed at a signal from the driver, and the animals started off at a run-away speed, which they kept up without slackening till the next station, generally twelve miles distant. In these cases the driver had no further control over his animals than the ability to guide them ; to stop, or even check them, was entirely beyond his power ; the frightened horses fairly flying over the ground, and never stopping till they drew up exhausted at the next station. Nothing but the most perfect presence of mind on the part of the driver could prevent acci dents.

Even this was not always enough, as was proved by a stage which we met, in which every passenger had either a bandaged head or an arm in a sling. At El Paso we had hoped to find a larger stage. Being disap pointed in this, I took a place outside, between the driver and conductor. The impossibility of sleeping had made me half delirious, and we had gone but a few miles before I nearly un seated the driver by starting suddenly out of a dream. I was told that the safety of all the passengers demanded that I should keep awake; and as the only means of effecting this, my neighbors beat a constant tatoo with their elbows upon my ribs. During the journey from the Rio Grande to Tucson my delirium increased, and the only thing I have ever remembered of that part of the route was the sight of a large number of Indian camp fires at Apache pass.