Polynesian Reminiscences; or, Life in the South Pacific Islands. ... Preface by Dr. Seemann. With illustrations

Preface

BY DR. SEEMANN. ©Ittfj Ellustrattons. LONDON : CHAPMAN AND HALL, 193, PICCADILLY. 1866. J. E. TAYLOtt AND CO., PEINTKHS, LITTLE QUEEN STBEET, LINCOLN'S INN FIELDS. The present volume does not promulgate any theories on the many questions, scientific, political, and reli gious, the solution of which invests the islands of the South Seas with so peculiar an interest at the present time ; but it furnishes much trustworthy information on almost every subject connected with their inhabi tants. Born in Tahiti, familiar with most of the dialects of the widely -spread Polynesian language, intimately acquainted with every habit and custom of both the lightand dark-skinned South Sea Islander, and for many years officially employed by our Govern ment as British Consul, the author enjoyed singular advantages for acquiring information; and the notes he accumulated were so voluminous, that he would have found it far less difficult to produce several I VI volumes on Polynesia than to compress his materials into one.

Indeed, the abundance of the materials was most embarrassing ; and the ungrateful task of select ing the best stories and the most curious information has in a great measure*, especially since the author's departure for Mexico, fallen to my task as Editor. I may add, that I have endeavoured to acquit myself to the best of my judgment, and that I, not the author, must be held responsible for whatever defi ciencies may be observed in the following pages. Having made several voyages to the South Seas when attached to Government expeditions, I have a tolerably fair knowledge of that portion of the globe, and I" may perhaps be allowed to state that Mr. Pritchard's pages appear to me to be amongst the most trustworthy and valuable that have as yet issued from the London press, and that they ought to take rank with Ellis's 'Polynesian Researches' and Mariner's 'Tonga,' the two classical works on Polynesia.

My personal acquaintance with the author dates from the time when I was attached to the Govern ment mission to the Viti or Fiji Islands, when I was introduced to him by a letter from Lord Russell. During my stay in those islands, I had ample oppor tunities of observing the admirable tact, zeal, and industry displayed by Mr. Pritchard in his official ca pacity ; how he used to exert himself all day long in behalf of the daily increasing number of white settlers, and of the numerous natives who claimed his interference or appealed to his love of justice ; and how he used to sit up all night, writing dispatches or translating documents, so that no impediment should take place in the next day's proceedings. He was the "* first who framed a code of. laws for a lawless group of two hundred islands ; and these laws were so admirably adapted to the primitive state of society then existing in Fiji, that every man of sense willingly submitted to them.

A copy of his code may be seen in the library of the British Museum. No one can read the following pages without feel ing that Mr. Pritchard was certainly the right man in the right place. It is, therefore, melancholy to add that all his tact, zeal, and industry were unavailing ; that a combination was formed against him, and that this combination was powerful enough, and lasted long enough, to effect his dismissal from the public service. It is satisfactory to the author's friends, that the moment he was informed of this, he hastened to London to defend himself; but his letters", begging for a fair investigation of his official conduct, were unheeded ; and after wasting more than a year in London, and spending a considerable sum of money, he was reluctantly compelled to acknowledge that no justice was to be had for him through the channel by which he sought it.

The reader need not, however, fear that this grievance will be intruded on his notice in the following pages : there is hardly an allusion to it, and it is only dire necessity which prompts me to mention the subject at all. Berthold Seemann. London, October 1, 1866. CONTENTS. CHAPTEE I. TAHITI UNDER HER NATIVE GOVERNMENT. VA.QU Happy State of Tahiti.— The Cloud that heralds the Storm.— Troubles arising. — M. Moerenhout. — Du Petit Thouars' Conduct. — How the French Flag was Saluted. —French Demands Satisfied. — Pomare's Appeal to Queen Victoria. — Fresh Demands. — ■ Concessions obtained 1

Chapter II. Tahiti Ceded To France

Intrigues of M. Moerenhout. — Return of Du Petit Thouars. — A Terrible Alternative. — Cession of Tahiti. — How the French were insulted. — Activity of the New Government. — British Sympathy. — Formal Acceptance of Protectorate— Pomare an ex-Queen. — Pomare's Flight. — Imprisonment of British Consul. — The Prison- House. — Inconsiderate Conduct of Tahitian Donkeys. — The End of the Tahiti Affair 22

Chapter III. Samoan Warfare

Introduction to Samoa. — The " Malo." — Sources of War. — Trophies of War. — Motives of Defection. — No Prisoners of War. — A Sea Fight. — A Land Fight. — A Lucky Escape. — The Club, the Spear, and the Planting-Stick. — My Impartiality. — Presenting Muskets. — A Challenge Accepted. — Samoan Courage. — Combat with Clubs.— Nearly Clubbed 50 b X CONTENTS.

Chapter IV. Conflicts Between Samoans And Foreigners

PACK Proposed Capture of British Officers.— The " Great Eel. —The Black Prince.— A Chief cannot Steal.— William Fox.— Demanding a Murderer.— The White Man Revenged.— Prevarication of the Natives.— .A Rejected Offering.— Surrender of the Murderer. — Reflections 83

Chapter V. Samoan Religion And Cookery

Samoan Gods. — Town Gods. — District Gods. — National Gods. — Origin of Fire. — Fall of the Gods. — Ruins of a Stone House. — Offering to the Gods. — Daily Meals. — Cannibalism. — Native Dishes 106

Pirates Secured.— Escaped Convicts.— A Mutiny.— Royal and Aristocratic Connections. — Concocting a New Religion. — Another New Religion.— Joe Gimblet CONTENTS. XI PAGE 209 235 253 276

Chapter X. The Cession Of Fiji To England

A Cousin of a Colonial M.P.— Trading in Hogs.— No Foreign Office Instructions. — Religious Toleration. — A Missionary Vessel.— Arrival in London.— Change of Ministry.— Rebellion against Thakombau.— Ritova'sParty worsted. —Horrible Cruelty of Tongans.— Maafu's Policy.— Convening a-Meeting of Chiefs

Chapter XI. On Things Brought Officially Before Me

Affray between Whites and Half-castes.— Land Purchases. — Island of Makogai. — Land Transactions. — My Land-policy. — Ejecting the Natives. — My Amicable Arrangement.— A frightened Missionary

Chapter XII. The White Men Of Fiji

Oil and Water. — The Mercantile Court. — Notes of Daily Proceedings. — Being almost at my Wits' End. — Two Angry Scots. — A Reformed Drunkard. — More Religious Quarrels. — A Runaway Woman. — Married and Settled — A Chief made Prisoner. — Swaying 250.000 Natives

Chapter XIII. Fijians And Tongans

Robberies and Arson. — Sir Malcolm MacGregor. — Salutary Effects of His Visit. — Maafu's Proposal. — Tongan Claim on Fiji. — Fiji in Danger. — I visit King George. — Maafu's Tactics. — Mariner's Teachings. — A Conscientious Tongan. — Rival Religious Sects. — Native Sermons

Chapter XIV. French Retributive Justice

Roman Catholics Flogged. — I decline to intermeddle. — Religious Persecution. — An Englishman's Blood up. — More Flogging. — Stealing Girls. — Planning an Attack. — Fijian Courage. — A Party of Runaways.— A Veritable Man-cater CONTENTS. PAG 320 343 362

Chapter XVIII. Polynesian Anthropology

Whence came the Inhabitants? — Traditional Evidence. — Fiji Ages ago. — Intercourse between Tonga and Fiji. — A Native Legend. — The Beautiful Rorandini. — Elopement. — Tatooing. — Customs common to all the Islands. — Creation of Man. — The Primeval Home of Man. — Mountains borne away by Gods. — The Serpent the Shrine of a God. — Emigration from Samoa. — Drifting of Canoes 376

Appendix

. Notes on the Physical and Psychological Condition of the Inhabitants of Viti, Tonga, and Samoa 409 Haie and Ceania

Chapter I. Tahiti Under Her Native Government

Born in the Pacific, of English parents, I hardly knew whether to call England or Tahiti my fatherland. When, as a boy, playing at my mother's feet, I heard her talk of " Old England " as every daughter of England speaks of her native land, I used to feel proud, and flattered myself that I too was English. But when patted on the head by Queen Pomare and called her little favourite, carried about on the backs of her attendants, and every juvenile whim quickly humoured, I forgot all the pretty little stories of the far-off land, and thought only of the present — of the actual before and around me : then there was no place like Tahiti, and I have a lingering fancy that in my childish vanity there was the thought that after all it was perhaps better to be born a Tahitian than an Englishman. But when, at the age of ten, I was '1 B B sent to the home of my parents, England soon became the fatherland ; and as years rolled on Tahiti was re membered only as the lovely little spot where I was Dorn — where I played and romped under the shade of breadfruit-trees and orange groves, and along the sandy beaches and over the reefs of the seashore, without thought of Latin grammars or Greek hexa meters, of puzzling circles and triangles, or myste rious signs and quantities.

When at last as a school boy I learnt that Tahiti was no longer the Tahiti of my childhood, — that from the Tahiti of Queen Pomare it had become the Tahiti of Louis Philippe, — I hardly cared to remember even that much. But the little story of that change has never yet been truthfully told, and I shall not apologize for introducing it. Discovered by Wallis on the 19th of June, 1767, ceded to Great Britain by Queen Beria, and the British flag hoisted at Matavai Bay on the 23rd, Tahiti received the name of "King George the Third's Island," in token of the formal possession declared by its discoverer. Three times visited by the immortal Cook, notably in the annals of science in the year 1794 to observe the transit of Yenus, it was on the 7th of March, 1797, that, with the con sent of its natives, Tahiti was at length occupied by a band of pioneer Englishmen.

These men were sent out by the London Missionary Society to christianize the Tahitians. With alternate fortunes, but unvarying devotion, this little band toiled at their labour from year to year, — at first with slight, at last with complete success. Erom time to time, the band was recruited HAPPY STATE OE TAHITI. 3 from England, and in 1824 my father and mother went out. Appointed to reside at Papeete, which, by reason of its beautiful harbour, became the chief port of the island and the residence of the royal family, as commerce and intercourse with shipping began to de velope, my father obtained commanding influence over the sovereign and chiefs. Kind in disposition, affable in manners, ever anxious to benefit the land of his adoption, (perhaps it may be charged upon me that I speak with filial partiality,) my father inevitably, indeed nolens volens, became a sort of Queen's coun sellor; and at the solicitation of Pomare he was at length appointed British Consul by King William IV.

For many long years everything went on smoothly. All the Tahitians, from king to slave, had embraced Christianity ; and when, in succession to her royal father, the Princess Aimata became queen under the style of Pomare Vahine I., all bowed in allegiance to the new sovereign, all were of one faith, all were pro sperous, contented, and happy under a simple consti tutional government, well appointed, and well administered; whilst commerce, industry, and civilization were being rapidly developed. Happy triflers were those Tahitians, without a touch of sadness in their gaiety, with a boisterous humour that delighted in punning on words and names, and gave traces of intellectual play fulness, as new objects and new ideas were exchanged for the old ones of their paganism. Under date of October 5th, 1825, Queen Pomare ventured to address King George IV. in these words : — " Never do you cast us off, but continue to be b kind to us, even for ever.

If agreeable to you, write us a letter, that we may know whether you agree to our wishes." To which Mr. Canning replied on the 3rd of March, 1827 : "His Majesty commands me to say he will be happy to afford to yourself and your dominions all such protection as his Majesty can grant to a friendly power at so remote a distance from his own kingdoms." .And in proof of these good wishes and implied protection, every British vessel of war that visited the island took out presents from the sovereign of Great Britain to the sovereign of Tahiti. It was on the 21st of November, 1836, when the little cloud that heralded the storm was first observed. On that clay a small schooner, owned and commanded by one William Hamilton, avoiding the regular port of entry, anchored at Tautira, on the eastern aspect of Tahiti.

Two Eoman Catholic priests, Eathers Laval and Carret, and a carpenter lay -brother, landed, and walked from village to village, telling the natives that the English missionaries had been teaching them false hoods ; and that in simple compassion for their souls, perishing as they were under a Protestant heresy worse than the old Tahitian paganism, they had now come to teach them the truth. These priests had been some months at Gambier's Island (Mangareva), where they had acquired the Tahitian language, and had quickly ousted the Tahitian teachers placed there by the Eng lish missionaries. When in their peregrinations they at length reached Papeete, the capital, the priests were furnished with a copy of the " Port Eegulations," the fourth article of which ran thus : — " No master THE CLOUD THAT HERALDS THE STORM. 5 or commander of a vessel is allowed to land any passenger without a special permission from the Queen and governors."

At the same time, a special messenger from Queen Pomare stated to them that in default of applying for the required permission they could not be allowed to remain in her dominions. The priests replied, " On shore we are, and on shore we intend to remain." After the lapse of several days, the priests, accompanied by M. Moerenhout, then acting as United States Consul, waited upon the Queen, when each priest tendered her Majesty the sum of thirty dollars, and appealed to the article in the Port Eegulations which stated that " No master of a vessel is allowed to put any man (i.e. of the crew) on shore without permission, under a penalty of thirty dollars." The priests alleged that by voluntarily paying the thirty dollars each they were entitled to remain on shore without formally asking permission, averring that what applied to the crew applied equally to the passengers.

The Queen declined to receive their money, and observed that passengers were viewed in a totally different light from the crew, and that hence the two classes were referred to under separate clauses in the Port Eegulations. The priests aud their friend Moerenhout retired in high dudgeon, when they found the Queen was firm in her adhesion to the literal observance of the laws of the land. After a further delay, the Queen directed a letter to be addressed to the priests, reminding them that they had not yet complied with the local laws by formally applying for permission to remain in her dominions. This notification being treated with contemptuous silence, another special messenger waited upon them with a verbal notification to the same effect, and with the same result. In the meantime these repeated delays were so much positive gain to the priests, and they made such good use of them that they managed to attach to themselves the two or three chiefs who had lately fancied themselves aggrieved by being overlooked or otherwise neglected by the Queen and her government.

Seeing that the priests offered a nucleus round which the disaffected and turbulent few, found in every state, however narrow its limits, might rally, — not that these few loved the priests more than others, but that by ranging themselves on their side, ill-humour was gratified, — the Queen and her government became really anxious to be rid of the new-comers. As the schooner in which the priests went to Tahiti was bound back to Gambier's Island, whence they had come, and where they had established a mission, the Queen requested them to go on board, and return without further delay or parley. They pointedly de clared they would not leave Tahiti, and fell back upon a threat, the frequent and reckless use of which by white men of all nations since this its first enunciation, has made it a by-word among the islanders of the Pacific: the priests would await the arrival of a man-of-war to see them righted ; in other words, they would await the arrival of a Erench war-vessel to extort that per mission to reside on Tahiti for which they themselves would not personally apply, as explicitly directed by TROUBLES ARISING. law.

The schooner was ready to sail, and the master had waited twenty-four hours, but still the priests refused to go on board. As a last resort, to maintain the integrity of her laws, the Queen issued orders to the proper officers to put the refractory priests on board. The orders were duly obeyed, without causing any personal injuries to the parties, or damage to their effects and chattels, and on the 13th of December, 1836, the priests sailed from Tahiti for Gambier's Island, without incurring any additional expense. A few days after their departure, Lord Edward Kussell arrived in H.M.S. Actæon. The Queen stated her troubles to his Lordship, and sought his advice. A great meeting of Queen, chiefs, and governors, was convened on the 22nd December, and the whole affair duly discussed. At that meeting, after having heard the statements there made, as well as after personal inquiries apart from the meeting, Lord Edward Eussell publicly declared, that ' ' in his opinion, the Queen was quite right in sending those priests off the island, for if they had remained nothing but anarchy and con fusion would have taken place, and the prospects of the island would have been ruined."

On the 27th January, 1837, priests appeared again in Tahiti. Fathers Laval and Maigret were passen gers in the ' Colombo,' an American brig, in which they had taken passage for Valparaiso, with the pro viso of calling at Tahiti, to renew the attempt to get a footing there, and if unsuccessful to proceed on their original voyage. Arrived in Papeete harbour, the captain formally applied to the Queen for permission to land his passengers. But, remembering the troubles occasioned by the priests who had before landed clandestinely, and that those two priests had sought to attach to themselves the few disaffected natives, and thus creating a distinctive party inimical to the Government of the Queen, permission was refused. The priests, nothing daunted, attempted to land without permission. As their boat touched the beach, they were met by constables, and requested to return on board their vessel.

For once they obeyed, and proceeded to Valparaiso ; and with them the clerical actors pass off the stage, and French naval officers take their place. On the 29th August, 1838, the French 60-gun fri gate 'Venus,' bearing the flag of Commodore Du Petit Thouars, anchored in Papeete, — now quite a flourishing port, and never without trading brigs and schooners from Sydney on the one side, or Valparaiso on the other, and in the season with as many as thirty or more whalers recruiting and refitting. The Commodore landed, and waited upon the American Consul, M. Moerenhout. This gentleman was a Belgian by birth, and, in consequence of the large number of American whalers that frequented Tahiti, had been appointed United States Consul, after a short residence on the island as a trader. Himself a zealous Boman Catholic, he gave his hearty co-operation and protection to the priests from the first.

But as soon as the United States Government heard of his countenancing the last attempt to trample underfoot the laws of the state to whose Sovereign he was accredited, those laws M. MOERENHOUT. 9 and their administration having been always favourably reported by the captains of the American whalers, he was superseded by an American citizen, subsequently appointed French Consul by Commodore Du Petit Thouars. With him Du Petit Thouars was clo seted for some hours, and on the following morning the annexed document was handed to Queen Pomare. " On board the French frigate ' Venus,' " Papeete, 30th August, 10a.m., 1838. " To the Queen of Tahiti. " Madam, " The King of the French and his Government, justly irritated by the outrages offered to the nation by the bad and cruel treatment which some of his members who came to Tahiti have suffered, and especially Messrs. Laval and Carret, Apostolic Missionaries, who called at this island in 1836, has sent me to reclaim, and enforce, if necessary, the immediate reparation due to a great Power and a valiant nation, gravely insulted without provocation.

The King and his Government demand — " 1st. That the Queen of Tahiti write to the King of the French to excuse for the violence and other insults offered to Frenchmen, whose honourable conduct did not deserve such treatment. The letter of the Queen wdl be written in the Tahitian and the French languages, and both will be signed by the Queen. The said letter of reparation will be sent officially to the Commander of the frigate 'Venus,5 within twenty-four hours after the present notification. " 2nd. That the sum of two thousand Spanish dollars be paid within twenty-four hours after the present notification into the cashier of the frigate ' Venus/ as an inden-uification for Messrs. Laval and Garret, for the loss occasioned to to them by the bad treatment they received at Tahiti. "3rd. That after having complied with these two first obligations, the French flag shall be hoisted the first day of September on the island of Motu-uta, and shall be saluted by the Tahitian Government with twenty-one guns.

" I declare to your Majesty, that if the reparation de manded be not subscribed within the specified time, I shall see myself under the obligation to declare war, and to com mence hostilities immediately against all the places of your Majesty's dominions, and which shall be continued by all the French vessels of war which shall successively call here, and shall continue to the time when France shall have obtained satisfaction. " I am, of your Majesty, " The most respectful Servant, " The Captain of the French frigate ' Venus,' " (Signed) A. Du Petit Thouars." The Queen was at that time residing on a little island called Motu-uta, about a quarter of an acre in size, situated in the harbour of Papeete, and had not yet recovered from her late accouchement. The baby being unwell, the Queen had sent for medical aid to Mr. Barff, an English missionary, and my father, and it. was while they were with her Majesty that the French Lieutenant arrived with the document.

He was a tall, stout-built man, and appeared in full uni form. He stood before the Queen, with the paper in one hand, and, speaking in broken English, throwing the other hand about so randomly in his excitement, that the Queen was obliged to draw back every moment to keep out of his reach. His harangue was to Vincent Brooks, Litl 1. SUSANAH A ROTUMA GIRL. 2 . -A FIJI GIRI. OF LEVUKA 3 MAH1A TAYLOR, DAUGHTER. OF AN ENGLISHMAN AND FIJI MOTHER 4.M».li CAKR, A FIJIAN WOMAN WIFE OF AN ENGLISHMAN DU PETIT THOUARS' CONDUCT. 11 the effect that "France was a great nation, had sixty grand frigates like the 'Venus,' and cared for no other nation in the world." After the withdrawal of the officer, the document was translated to the Queen, and she decided forth with to convene a meeting of her chiefs, and, leaving the little island, she went to my father's house, to remain there until the business was settled.

The guns of the 'Venus' were shotted and run out, the drums beat to quarters, everything was made ready for action, if, at the expiration of the specified time, the demands were not complied with. While awaiting the assembling of her chiefs, the Queen wrote to the Commodore requesting an investigation of the complaints preferred, and reminding him that in civilized countries it was customary to give the accused an opportunity for defence, and expressing her willingness, if the charges were proven, to make the demanded reparation. At her Majesty's request, my father was the bearer of the letter, but Commodore Du Petit Thouars declined to receive any communi cation of any kind, nor would he hear any verbal ex planations. He "had made his demands, and if they were not complied with by ten o'clock the next morn ing, he would carry out his threats."

A guard was now placed round the little island where the Queen had her residence, and another round her Majesty's yacht, and an embargo was laid on all the shipping in the port, — none were to leave until the business was settled. After my father had been on shore some few minutes, the Commodore sent him a letter, offering his vessel as an asylum during the bombardment of the town. Seeing that the chiefs could not possibly assemble from all parts of the island within the speci fied time, and that the gallant Commodore was appa rently determined to carry out his threats, my father, together with two or three other Englishmen, sub scribed, the two thousand dollars demanded, and paid the amount into the hands of the "cashier of the fri gate," on behalf of Queen Eomare. My father still holds Commodore Du Petit Thouars' receipt for the amount.

The demand to hoist the French flag on Motu-uta, and salute it with twenty-one guns, was not so easily complied with. There were some half-dozen old con demned cannons, of which, on examination, but one only was fit for service, and the royal arsenal could produce only five charges of powder ! The failure of a salute entailed the vengeance of the Commodore, and what was to be done ? My father went on board the ' Venus,' to state these embarrassing facts, and the following singular scene occurred on the quarter-deck of the French frigate : — British Consul. If you insist upon the French flag being saluted by Queen Pomare with twenty-one guns, you must yourself supply the powder, for the Queen has not enough for more than five charges. French Commodore. That does put me in one diffi cult position.

If I give powder, it will be seen in one newspaper in France that I did give the Indians French powder to salute mine own French flag. A pause, — both parties in deep thought. Suddenly the HOW THE FRENCH FLAG WAS SALUTED. French Commodore continues : — I tell you what, Monsieur le Consul, I can do dis, I shall give some powder to you as de British Consul, and you can do as you like with it ; you understand, Monsieur le Consul ? British Consul. But what about the guns ? there is only one fit for use. French Commodore, (after a pause, and passing his hand across his forehead), — I shall do dis, I shall lend you, as Monsieur le Consul d'Angleterre, some instru ments which shall make any guns in de world fire good : you shall do what you like with them. Thus, at half-past nine, on the morning of the 1st of September, 1838, with minute guns and French powder, the tricolour of France was duly saluted by the Queen of Tahiti, Louis Philippe and his Govern ment were appeased, the demands of Du Petit Thouars satisfied, and Pomare's little coral-kingdom saved for the nonce !

The Commodore rested on his laurels until the 5th, when he met the Queen and chiefs at a public meeting, to introduce the French Consul, M. Moerenhout. The Queen objected to grant him an exequatur. The Com modore grew wroth, and demanded the instant recog nition of the appointment. The Queen demurred that she had had quite enough of M. Moerenhout as United States Consul, without again receiving him in an official capacity. She was willing to receive a French Consul, but begged that he might be a French citizen and a stranger, — any one rather than M. Moerenhout. The Commodore declared if the Consul were not promptly received, the rejection would be accepted as a declaration of war by Tahiti against France. There upon the Queen succumbed to the Commodore, and M. Moerenhout was accepted as French Consul.

The Commodore had not yet finished his labours, — a treaty must be drawn up and signed forthwith. The Queen objected to any treaty with France. The Com modore repelled her objection by stating that France had power, and could act with or without treaties ; but if the Queen signed a treaty with France, the King of the French would look upon her as his friend. The Queen trembled before the stern diplomatist, and signed the following treaty : — " Convention between his Majesty Louis Philippe I., King of the French, represented by Captain Abel Du Petit Thouars, Officer of the Legion of Honour, commanding the French frigate ' Venus,' and her Majesty Pornare, Queen of Tahiti. " There shall be perpetual peace and friendship between the French and the Tahitian peoples. " The French, whatsoever may be their profession, shall come and go freely, establish themselves, aud trade among all the islands under the Government of Tahiti ; they shall be received and protected on the same footing as the most favoured nation.