Cutch; or, Random Sketches, taken during a residence in one of the Northern Provinces of Western India: interspersed with legends and traditions ... Illustrated with engravings from ... drawings by the author

Front matter

CUTCH. LONDON : PRINTED BY STEWART AND MURRAY, OLD BAILEY. Durbar Horseman Inthe service and. pay of the fiao of Catch.. Jron? Projection of Door'wccy cf Mac Zackas* Tbmo. CUTCH; OR, RANDOM SKETCHES, TAKEN DURING A RESIDENCE IN ONE OF THE NORTHERN PROVINCES OF WESTERN INDIA; INTERSPERSED 1VITH iLegm-OS arta Cratuttons, By Mrs. POSTANS. ILLUSTRATED WITH ENGRAVINGS FROM ORIGINAL DRAWINGS BY THE AUTHOR. LONDON: SMITH, ELDER AND CO. CORNHILL. 1839. TO THE RIGHT HONOURABLE JOHN FITZGIBBON, EARL OF CLARE, LATE GOVERNOR OF BOMBAY, SfC SfC Sj-C. My Lord, The honour your Lordship has conferred on me, by allowing your name to be prefixed to this unpretending volume, is highly flattering. For such a favour I should not have presumed to hope, had I not been aware of your Lordship's liberality of sentiment; the subject also being one with which your Lordship is well acquainted, and in which you have taken considerable interest.

In this, my first attempt to place myself VI DEDICATION. before the public in the responsible position of an author, many errors may pro bably be discovered, for which I feel con vinced your Lordship will be disposed to entertain every generous indulgence. In the anxious hope, therefore, that, should the ensuing pages be found deficient in actual importance, they may offer something for the amusement of a few leisure hours, I have the honour to subscribe myself, With the highest respect, My Lord, Your Lordship's most grateful, Most obedient, Very humble Servant, Marianne Postans.

Introduction

. Some time resident in the province of Cutch, and remarking with much interest many local pecu liarities, I am led to imagine that a few slight sketches of its more striking characteristics may be thought worthy of notice. General acquaintance with the remote stations which form a considerable part of our Indian possessions is very limited ; and as Cutch, from its geographical position, as well as from its maritime importance, is likely to become con nected with the favourite and apparently feasible plan of steam-navigation on the Indus, it will perhaps be deemed more deserving of attention than other stations not likely to be in any way affected by the progress of commercial civiliza tion. As European society in the East has been frequently and admirably described, and as military camps in India differ little except in size, I have restricted myself to the attempt of de lineating the characteristics of the country, and of the various tribes which compose its native population.

INTRODUCTION.

. In noticing the natural productions of Cutch, I have not ventured to offer any description in scientific terms. Throughout the work, I have frequently diverged from the immediate subject, to offer such reflections as were suggested by the occasion, and which I trust will not be regarded as impertinent by the reader. These pages are the result of a series of notes, taken during a residence of some years in Cutch ; during which I have enjoyed unusual opportunities of becoming acquainted with the general and domestic manners of the population in its various castes. The illustrative engravings are all from original designs, which, as productions of an amateur artist, will, I hope, equally with the literary sketches, be honoured with the indulgent suffrage of the reader. Camp, Bhooj : Sept. 29th, 1837. CONTENTS.

Chapter I. The Voyage

Embarkation. — Scenery of Bombay. — Steam Vessels. — Departure. — Colabah Light-House. — Description of a Cutch Kotia, or Native Boat. — Indolence and Filthiness of the Crew. — Arrival at Mandavie. Page I

Chapter II. Mandavie

Harbour. — Population. — Etymology of the word " Cutch." — Commerce. — Boat-building. — Pilots. — Arab Sailors. — Characteristics of Mandavie, and of its Inhabitants. — Palace. — Story of Ram Sing, the Architect. — Agriculture. — Female Costume. — Holidays. — Climate. — Fish. — Ruins of the City of Raipoor. — Legend of Vere and Vicramaditya, Grandsons of Indra. — Illustration — The Nine Gems of the Court of Vicramaditya. — Road to Bhooj. — Cutch Carts. — Town of Kaira. — Manufacture of Cotton Cloths. — Mahomedan Temple — Women of Kaira. 9

Chapter III. Hill Fort, And City Of Bhooj

Distant view of the City. — Snake Tower. — Population. — Sacred Bulls. — Black Buffaloes. — Palace of Rao Daisuljee, Prince of Cutch. — State Elephants. — History and Character of Rao Daisuljee. — Private Reception Chamber of the Rao. — Negro Giant. — State Apartments. — Rao Gore. — Wrestlers. — Garden of the Palace. — Water-works. — X CONTENTS. Royal Stables.— Kattywar Horses.— Equestrian Appointments.— Native Horsemanship.— Durbar Horsemen.— Custom, or Tenure of "Mohsulsee." — Poorrah Auxiliary Horse. - Page 2!) [

Chapter IV The Harem

Wives of the Rao.— Guard of Eunuchs.— The Author's Visit. — Dowry of the Ladies.— The Rao's Mother.— Beauty ofthe Soodah Women. — Costume of the Queen Mother. — Jewels of the Ranees. — Etiquette of Departure. — Moral and Intellectual state of Women in the East. ------ 50

Chapter V. Hindu Tombs

Effects of an Earthquake. — Centre Tomb. — Tomb of the Wives of Rao Rahiden. — Atonement of the Rao for his temporary Conversion to Mahomedanism. ----- 59

Chapter VI. Suttee

Recent Suttee in Cutch. — Immemorial usage. — Tests of Conjugal Affection from the Shastrus. — Description of the Pyre. — Apparent apathy ofthe Widow. — Address of Captain Burnes. — Devotion and Heroism of the Victim. — Suffocation. — Hindu Belief. — Monuments of Suttee. — Censurable Conduct of the Rao. — Self-immolation of a Female Wrater-bearer, on the Death ofthe Rao's Mother. — Effects of Popular Superstition. — Means of eluding British Authority. — Alternative Penances. .... - - 62

Chapter VII. Anjar

Situation of the Town of Anjar. — British Residency. — Establishment of Rats.— Sacred Fish.— Vishnoo's First Avatara. — Legend of Jaisur CONTENTS. XI Peer.— Domestic Habits of the Poor.— Precocity.— Wandering Fa kirs.—Remarkable Brahmin Mendicant. — Population of Anjar. — Destructive Earthquake ]o( 1819.— Legend of a Rishi, one of the Seven Holy Penitents.— Geological; Character of Cutch.— Natural Convulsions of Earlier Periods. — Hindu Opinions respecting the Great Earthquake. .... Page 77

Chapter VIII. The Runn

Extent and Locality of the Great Northern Runn. — Mirage. — Islands on the Runn. — Hindu Apollo. — Indian Pastorals. — Zoology of the Runn Hog-hunting. — Indian Sports, Poetry, and Music. — The Wild Ass. — Black Partridge. — Sacred Birds. — Paroquets. 90

Chapter IX. Religious Ceremonies In Cutch

THE NAGA PACHAMI. Holy Processions. — The Hooli. — Worship of the Naga Pachami, or Cobra Capella. — Ceremonies of Snake Worship. — Presence and Participation of the Rao. — Legend of Sirdaee ; or, the Origin of Snake Worship. — Reflections on the Worship of Idols. — Bigotry of the Hindus. —Policy of the British Government. - 99

Chapter X. Religious Sects In Cutch

Division of Sects. — Hinduism and Mahomedanism. — Benevolence of Hindus towards Brute Animals. — Sect of the Jains. — Singularity of Costume. —Religious Tenets. — Jain Temples. — Monastic Establishments. — Kanphuttees of Denodur. — Charitable Principles. — Celibacy. — Comparison of the Kanphuttees with the Monastic Orders of Europe. — Costume of Tournath, the Kanphuttee Peer, or Superior. — Derivation ofthe word Kanphuttee. — Fakirs of th Gosein. — Legend of Dhurrumnath.— Sect of the Kaprias of Mhurr CONTENTS. — Privileges of the Rajah of the Kaprias.— Idol Temple of Parvati. — Division of Hindu Cycles, or Ages. - - Page llfi Page llfi

Chapter XI. The Military Tribes Of Cutch

Feodal Tenure. — Jharrejahs, and their Retainers, the Grasias. — Rajpoot Women. — Origin of the Jharrejahs. — Supposed Murder of the Princess Kesser Bhye. — Meyannahs, or Warriors. — Soodahs. — Beauty of the Soodah Women. — Intermarriages. — Jharrejah Costume. — Arms. — Eastern Practice of Dyeing Beards and Moustaches. ..... , 131

Chapter XII. Castles In Cutch

Picturesque Sites. — Feodal Times and Tenures. — Reflections on the Feodal System.— Treachery of a Mahratta Chief. - 139

Chapter XIII. Infanticide In Cutch

Pride, the Origin of the Cold-blooded and Unnatural Crime of Infanticide. — Indifference of Rajpoot Mothers to their Offspring.— British Treaty for the Preservation of Female Infants. — Disproportion of Male and Female Population. — Professed Intentions of the Rao- Insufficiency of Coercive Measures.— Barriers of Caste. 144

Chapter XIV. Ruins In Cutch

Ruins of the Cities of Poorugud, Goontre, and Wagum Chowrah. — Palace of Poorugud.— Style of Architecture.— Temple of Mahadeo. — Legend of the Rookhees, or Seven Holy Men of Damascus. — Effects of Hindu Superstition. - , *-„ CONTENTS. XIII

Chapter XV. Pilgrims

Pilgrimage to Mecca. — Privation and Fatigue. — Usbeck Tartars. — Mahomedans of Yarcund. — Mahomed Niyaz. — The Kebla Nimah. — Pilgrim Presents. — Hindu Pilgrims. — Penance of Five Brahmins. — Peeran Peer, the Saint of Bagdat. — Tombs. — Mendicant Fakirs. — Cause of Hindu Indifference to Life. — Tenets of the Hindu Faith. — Horrible Penances. — Hindu Fanatic. — Remarkable Custom of Traga ..--.. page 159

Chapter XVI. Workmen Of Cutch

Phrenological Development ofthe Organ of Imitation. — Brass-founders, Embroiderers, Armourers, Gold and Silver-smiths, &c. — Cutch Armour. — Matchlocks. — Swords for the Fast of the Mohurrum. — Tambour Embroidery. — Goldsmiths' Imitations of European Patterns. — Talents for Design.— Rudeness of Implements. - 173

Chapter XVII. Minstrelsy Of Cutch

National Melodies. — Hindu Musical Rhythm. — Knowledge of the Arts a Revelation from Heaven. — The Indian Apollo, the First Musician. — Cupid led Captive by Apollo. — Hindu Diatonic Scale. — Musical Notation. — Untranslated Collection of Poems in Sanskreet. — Instrumental Music. — The Vina. — The Pukhawuj . — The Sitarr, or Guitar. — The Saringi, or Fiddle. — Wandering Minstrels. — Probable Origin of the Gypsies. - - - 178

Chapter XVIII. On The Bards And Bardic Literature Of Cutch

Talent for Narration in Barbarous Times. — Story-tellers. — Hindu CONTENTS. Romances, and Persian Poetry.— Poetical Description of Krishna. — Bhats and Dadies, Provincial Bards of Cutch. — Composition of Metrical Ballads.— Marriage Festivals. — History of the Birth of Lacka Phoolanee, or the Flower ofthe Sun.— Original Cutchee Ode in Praise of Lacka Phoolanee. — A Secret, valuable as that of the Philosopher's Stone. — Romantic History of Two Lovers, Soosie and Punoon. — Rules for Persian Versification. — Examples. — Hafiz. — Romance of the Marriage of Love and Beauty. — Persian Fables. —The Rose and the Grass. —The Man, the Snake, and the Fox ; a Tale, translated from the Anwari Soheili of Kashifi. — Credulity of the Cutch Bhats. ----- Page 188

Chapter XIX. On The Art Of Design, And The General Want Of

INSTRUCTION IN CUTCH. Origin of Poetry and the Fine Arts, in Cutch. — Paintings in the British Residency of Anjar. — Battle between Rama and Rawan, the King of Ceylon. — Fae simile of an Allegorical Painting, representing the Amicable Meeting of two Rajahs. — Patronage of the Arts by the Reigning Prince. — Persian Library at Cutch. — Original Letter from Manockjee Cursetjee, a Native of Bombay, honoured with the soubriquet of " the Byron of the East," to Colonel H. Pottinger, respecting the Formation of a " Native Literary Society." — A circular from the same gentleman, published in " The Oriental Christian Spectator."— Orlebar's English Scientific Lectures, in Bombay. — Enterprise and Talent of the Parsees. — Elphinstone College. — Proposed Education of Asiatic Women. - - 221

Chapter XX. Juggling, Snake-charming, And Magic

Professions of the Kalatnee Caste.— Jugglers. — Exhibition, and Musical Instrument, of a Snake-charmer. — Tricks and Impostures. Sacredness of the Cobra Capella. — Sanc'ha-Naga, the King of the Snakes. — A Snake Legend.— Magical Arts. — Trial by Ordeal. Practice of " Traga." — Singular Mode of recovering Debts. CONTENTS. XV

Chapter XXI. Productions Of Cutch

Nature of the Soil. — Native Ignorance of Agriculture. — Grain. — Fruits — Plants. — English Vegetables. — Irrigation. — The Kheie. — Milkbush. — Sindhian Cotton Tree. — Superior Fruits. — Climate. — Flowering Shrubs. — Locusts. — Sheep. — Goats. — Buffaloes. — Horses. — Bullocks. — Asses. — Dogs. — Camels. — Modes of Camel-riding. — Wild Animals. — Alum Mines. — Method of purifying Alum. — Coal Veins. — Fossil Remains. — Basalt. — Saltpetre. — Natural History. — Physical, Moral, Religious, and Intellectual state of the Inhabitants of Cutch. — Ancient History of the Country. — Commerce. — Education. — Colleges of Bombay and Calcutta. — Climate and Temperature of Cutch. — Thermometrical Summary for the Spring and Summer Months of the Year 1837. - - - Page 240

Chapter XXII. Conclusion

GENERAL VIEW OF CUTCH. Ancient History of Cutch. — Conflicting Authorities respecting the Route of Alexander the Great over India, — Conquest of the Country by Menander. — Modern History. — British Treaty of 1816, with the Rao Bharmuljee. — Dethronement of the Rao, and Succession of his Son. — Effects of the British Connexion with Cutch. — Aborigines. — Modern Cutchees. — Jharrejah Families. — Jewish Features of the Belluches, and of the Summa Tribes — Population. — Virtues and Vices of the Cutchee Character — Habits. — Food. — Love of Opium. — Cutchee Respect for the European Character. — Medical and Surgical Science. — Astronomy. — Eclipses. — The Fine Arts. — Mechanical Skill. — Manufactures and Trade. — Province of Sindh. — Potters. — Money-lenders. — Language of the Boors of Cutch. — Women of Cutch. — Henna. — Children. — Costume of the Rajpoot Tribes. — Dress of the Sindhians. — Feodal Tenures. — Divisions of the Province.— Evils of the Feodal System. — Physical Advantages and Disadvantages of Cutch. - LIST OF EMBELLISHMENTS.

Durbar Horseman ----- Frontispiece. Doorway of Rao Lacca's Tomb - Vignette. Map of Cutch ______ Page xix Gundhurvu Pice - - - - - - -22 Cutch Cart 25 His Highness the Rao of Cutch - - - - 33 A Seyed Mercenary Soldier - - - - - 48 A Priest of the Jain Sect - - - - - -118 Portrait of Barvajee - - - - - -131 Arab Soldiers - - - - - - - -135 Kebla Nimah, or Sacred Compass - - - - 1 63 The Saringi, or Fiddle - - - - - - 185 Itinerant Musicians - - - - - - -18C Fac-simile of an Allegorical Painting - - - - 223 Musical Instrument of a Snake-charmer - 233 Cutch Plough - - - 247 n A SKETCH OK CUTCH. THE RUNN. AND COUNTRIES ADJACENT. Vron, Original Surveys by "Cap. *? a . Bimie?, F.R.S. Sec. GEOGRAPHICAL POSITION OP THE PROVINCE OF CUTCH. Cutch is situated in the most northern part of Western India, within the 68th and 70th degrees of east longitude ; and the 22d and 24th parallels of north latitude.

It is bounded on the west, by the river Indus ; on the east by the Gulf of Cutch, and the salt desert of the Runn ; on the north, by the Great Desert ; and on the south, by the sea. The pro vince is about one hundred and sixty miles in length, from east to west ; and sixty-five in breadth, from north to south ; and is distant about five hundred miles from the Presidency of Bombay. RANDOM SKETCHES, Sfc. Sfc.

Chapter I. The

voyage. Embarkation. — Scenery of Bombay. — Steam Vessels. — Departure. — Colabah Light-House. — Description of a Cutch Kotia, or Native Boat. — Indolence and Filthiness of the Crew. — Arrival at Mandavie. It was early in the month of January, that, under promise of a fair and freshening breeze, we em barked on board a Cutch Kotia, and left our anchorage in the Harbour of Bombay. The morning was bright and beautiful; the sun, just risen, had shed his early radiance on the wooded summits of Elephanta ; the fishermen were returning with their spoils ; the merry capstan songs resounded from the decks ofthe English mer chantmen ; and, far as the eye could gaze, it rested on a scene teeming with interest and animation. The time was favourable, and we observed these picturesque effects, as adding much to the usual B HARBOUR OF BOMBAY. beauty of the view ; for although the natural loveliness of the island-skirted harbour of Bom bay has been rendered familiar to the imagination, by the pen and pencil of the most accomplished masters, its peculiar interest depends much on what an artist would call accident ; such as the brightness of the lights, the softness of the shadows, and the variety, number, and picturesque character of the native boats, which, by the aid of their well filled latteen sails, skim like sea-birds on the surface of the deep.

As these various craft round the richly wooded headlands, and make towards the harbour, crossing, recrossing, and chasing each other, few scenes can present so much interest and beauty, enlivened as it is by the bright sunshine of a tropical climate, and the joyous shouts which re-echo from numerous fishing boats, as their laughing crews outstrip the heavier vessels. An additional interest is now given to the harbour of Bombay by the presence of the fine steam-packets which have lately been appointed to advance the interests dependent on an overland communication. True, they add little to its pic turesque effect, but they do far more : they afford a promise of civilization to the shores of India, such as no other means could compass ; and, to the minds of her English sojourners, a hope which makes the exile's " heart sing for joy."

DEPARTURE. Few persons can leave Bombay without regret. Its lovely scenery, its hospitable society, and its civilized condition cannot but charm the English visitor ; and when duty commands that he should resign its pleasures, the voyager does so with a sigh, and as his boat recedes from the shore, and the gay tents on the esplanade dwindle to mere specks, full many a wistful glance does he cast back to that distant scene of life and enjoyment. The last object which appears in sight to interest the voyager is the light-house on Colabah ; that past, he finds his little craft tossing about in a heavy sea, and is speedily overwhelmed with the miseries that surround him. At this point adverse winds frequently spring up ; the boat, long out of sight of land, pitches and rolls, and is yet unable to make way ; the servants, suffering and useless, lie rolled up in their blankets upon the deck ; the spray extinguishes the fire ; and the poor, sick, weather-wearied voyager would willingly, like Gonzalo, "give a thousand furlongs of sea for an acre of barren ground, long heath, brown furze, any thing," so intolerable has his state become.

In a few days, however, matters improve ; a favourable breeze carries him within sight of the opposite coast, and the Portuguese cook, who is always the earliest convalescent, pops up his black head, and commences culinary prepara tions. b A NATIVE BOAT, A dogged state of patient endurance succeeds one of actual suffering ; and, although the long sandy line of coast which lies under his view can present nothing to attract the interest of the voyager, a calm sea and a favourable breeze tend materially to restore both his appetite and his tranquillity. Much has been said against sea-voyaging; keenly have its miseries been felt, and as severely, perhaps, anathematized. The perfect accommodation provided by the English merchantmen relieves the Eastern passen ger from many of its horrors, providing him with resources and comforts of no common order; but on arriving in India, he finds his miseries com mence.

The majority of the northern nations under the Bombay presidency are so situated, that a residence in any of the states involves the necessity of a tedious and wearying voyage ; and the poor Anglo-Indian, whose duty attaches him to some M/3-station, (as it is called,) several hundred miles, perhaps, from Bombay, too soon discovers, that a boat is the only conveyance adapted to his means and position. And with that bitter feeling of unadaptation to circumstances, which a con strained traveller ever feels so keenly, in a country of primitive habits, he suddenly finds himself, his servants, and all his worldly possessions on board AND ITS CREW. a native cotton-boat, the appearance of which is equally dirty, awkward, and unsafe. The boat in which we embarked for Cutch was of the rudest construction, half decked, and totally deficient in privacy, accommodation, and cleanliness.

It has b_en my fate to be a frequent voyager in native boats, which are always dirty and inconvenient, but I have never seen any so rife with offence as a Cutch Kotia. These boats, from their peculiar build, roll and pitch dread fully ; they boast but one cabin, which is divided horizontally, and, from the ridiculous lowness of both its compartments, seems to have been in tended only for the accommodation of an upper and a lower stratum of monkeys : moreover, so infested are they with rats, and every other description of the most uncompanionable vermin, that the sensi tive voyager must either occupy the hold in joint tenure with his horses, dogs, and luggage, or devote himself to a full endurance of their attacks in the little den courteously yclept a cabin, the single door of which gives full ad mission to the unsavoury steams of ghee, onions, and dried fish, which are at all times under culi nary preparation.

The crew of these boats are usually half Hindu, and half Mahomedan ; they are a satisfied and slothful race, who lie scattered about the poop, or on the rafters of the bows during the noontide heat, with the exception of FILTHINESS AND INDOLENCE the helmsman, alternately sleeping and smoking until sunset, when they assemble round a large platter of rice, curry, and coarse grain cakes, which, after the prefatory measure of pouring a little water over their hands, they rapidly despatch — sitting round in a circle, -and gathering up the rice between their fingers, each dipping into the same dish. I have never on any occasion observed the crew use water for the purposes of ablution ; neither have I seen any attempt made to cleanse a boat, or to put it into any sort of order. The whole scene is one of filth and confusion ; fowl coops, cocoa-nuts, cooking vessels, coir ropes and pas sengers mingled together, and surrounded by every ill savour that bilge-water and native cookery can produce.

A boat's crew can imagine no state of existence half so desirable as one of rest ; they conse quently display a total apathy as to their amount of daily progress. If a foul wind set in, they immediately anchor ; and if at night a fair breeze should spring up, they never set sail again, but remain very quietly until the following morning : thus they can have no sympathy with their un happy passenger, whose every sense furnishes him vvith fresh avenues for disgust and suffering. Re monstrance is vain; but daily does he groan in spirit, as the approach of evening sees him little OF THE BOAT'S CREW. advanced on his weary way, and the crew again prepare, even under a fair wind, and a refreshing breeze, to drop anchor, and wait the morning tide. To enlarge on the miseries of such a locale is needless ; many of my readers may have experienced them, and memory will readily complete the sketch.

During the rainy season, which occupies four months of the year, all water communication ceases between the province of Cutch and Bom bay : the post-bag, fortunately, makes its way over a tedious, and very circuitous overland route, but even this advantage is rendered very precarious from the badness of the roads, and the swollen state of the hill torrents. During the winter months the voyage to Cutch frequently occupies from ten to twenty days, but in very favourable seasons it may be made in four. The Cutch boats are fortunately very strong in their construction, and their Tindals * are well acquainted with the route ; accidents are rare, and foul weather is seldom experienced. In the event of a squall coming on, the crew immediately run into some of the numerous creeks along the shore, and anchor for fair weather ; — a tedious, yet satisfactory measure, as the crew, being * Captains.

TEDIOUS VOYAGE. all fatalists, are little inclined to make any exertion in the hour of danger, and commonly content themselves with counting their beads, and calling on their respective Gods ; rather, however, as it seems, from an impulse of physical fear, than from any hope of being succoured by providential aid. After leaving the light-house of Bombay, the Cutch boats, as I have already described, stretch out to sea, and near the opposite coast of Katti war, which is flat and sandy in its character ; and if I except the fortified town of Pore-Brender, and the celebrated Hindoo temple at D'waka, which I shall have occasion to mention elsewhere, this long line of coast is a mere burning solitude, un di versified by any object calculated to excite the voyager's interest. In sight of this dreary prospect the boat re mains for days, tacking and anchoring, as calms or foul winds may require ; until, after crossing the Gulf of Cutch, the white bastions of a walled town appear, and the little craft anchors safely, in the roadstead of Mandavie.

Chapter II. Mandavie

Harbour. — Population. — Etymology of the word " Cutch."— Commerce. — Boat-building. — Pilots. — Arab Sailors. — Characteristics of Mandavie, and of its Inhabitants. — Palace.— Story of Ram Sing, the Architect. — Agriculture.— Female Costume. — Holidays. — Climate. — Fish. — Ruins of the City of Raipoor. — Legend of Vere and Vicramaditya, Grandsons of Indra. — Illustration — The Nine Gems of the Court of Vicramaditya. — Road to Bhooj. — Cutch Carts. — Town of Kaira. — Manufacture of Cotton Cloths. — Mahomedan Temple. — Women of Kaira. On approaching the Province of Cutch,* the coast affords few attractions to the traveller's eye, pre senting as it does, a mere sandy outline, slightly diversified by a few patches of stunted vegetation, * Probably so called from " Cach" or Cach'ha, signifying a low maritime country.

In the prophetic chapters of the Puranas, two brothers are mentioned as Puru-Cach'ha and Buja-Cach'ha. One of these, tradition asserts to have been the founder of the ancient city of Teja, in Cach, a country whose geographical position agrees with the present province of Cutch. "When the Greeks sailed within sight of land," says the THE HARBOUR. and straggling palm trees ; but on landing at Man davie, which is the principal sea-port, an appear ance of wealth and unusual bustle excites the traveller's attention. A creek, which runs skirt ing one side of the city for about a mile inland, has its mouth filled with boats, making, mending, receiving, or discharging cargo ; whilst carts of a peculiarly rude construction drawn by strong and sturdy bullocks, struggle through the heavy sand laden with goods for the interior.

The inhabitants seem a busy, cheerful, and in dustrious race, and their peculiarly bright and varied costume gives an appearance of gaiety to the place, which is strikingly pleasing, and seldom seen in an Indian town of second rate importance. The population is principally composed of Banyans, Brahmins, and cultivators; many of whom may be seen on the outside of the town, either en gaged in their several callings, loitering lazily learned Essayist on the era of Vicramaditya, " they coasted along the Delta, as far as the point of land before mentioned (Jakow,) and then crossed the Gulf of Cach'ha, thus called from a famous town of that name, still existing. This headland is particularly noticed by the author of the Periplus (Arrian). The mussulmans, bolder, crossed from the western mouth of the Indus to an island called Avicama, a district near D'waka."

Abul Fazel in 1582, describes the province as barren and unproductive • the interior almost unknown, but the situation of its seaports similar to those at present de scribed. THE POPULATION. 11 along, or grouped together in little knots, gossip ping with vehement gesticulation, on any trifling subject, of profit or pleasure. Here and there, a retainer of the Rao* comes swaggering along, displaying the superior height, aquiline nose, and long moustache of the Rajpoot tribe ; his arms are a sword, shield, and matchlock, and his dress and bearing are marked by an air of mingled haughtiness, foppery, and independence. Then are seen swarthy but fine-limbed children, rolling on the soft sand in childish glee, and shouting with joy, as a horseman passes them, circling and passaging with consummate skill, his gaily decorated steed.

Near these, a water-carrier urges on his bullock, which, laden with the water bags, slowly saunters forward, whilst his master smokes his hookah, and indulges in a passing chat with the women, who, gracefully bearing their earthen water-vessels on their heads, are returning to the well to which he journeys. Lastly, are groups of women, employed in sifting grain from light baskets, in which they display the most graceful attitudes ; the passing breeze winnows the corn, as it falls into large heaps, and numerous asses wait leisurely around, to carry it in sacks to the merchants' granaries. The creek which I have alluded to, runs up from the sea, near the usual landing place, and is * The reigning prince of Cutch. COMMERCE. occupied by boats of various sizes, some on the stocks, either undergoing repair, or in process of building.

The maritime commerce of Mandavie is im portant, and boat building is carried on to a considerable extent. The boats are, it is true, of a very rude and primitive construction ; but from their re markable strength, prove admirably adapted for the purposes required. They are half-decked, with broad sterns, high bows, and heavy sails on enormous yards, supported by a stout but clumsy mast, apparently very disproportionate to the size of the craft. The Cutch mariners, however, satisfied with their security, are a most fearless and enterprising race, trading, as their forefathers have done for centuries, to all the ports of the Red Sea, and even stretching out to the eastern coasts of Africa, Ceylon, and the China seas. The exports of Mandavie consist principally of cotton cloths ; and in return it receives dates, coffee, dried grapes, antimony, senna, and coloured mats from the ports of the Red Sea ; and from Zangibar, on the African coast, elephants' teeth and rhinoceros horn.