Bible Lands, with glimpses of Europe and Egypt, etc

Preface

. " What travelers the Americans are ! I find them everywhere," said a solid, intelligent, good-natured English lady as she reached, almost out of breath, the top of the last flight of stairs in the lofty tower of the great Cathedral of Notre Dame in Antwerp, and looked a few feet above where I had just climbed to the highest accessible point. She might have added, if she had looked over the lists of our publishers, " and how many books of travels they write !" Every author, I suppose, perceives — though others may not — reasons sufficient to justify his publication. He differs, per haps, in some important respects, from others who have gone over the same ground, or he has so wrought up, arranged, and con densed his materials as to present in a life-like manner just what is most desirable and interesting to readers generally.

I have given a sketch of my whole tour, in a single volume, and I do not know of another writer who has brought the results of a journey of like extent into so small a space. In this purposed and labored brevity, the first part of the book is necessarily a rapid narrative of sights and scenes by the way ; but the chapters on Palestine — a land of the deepest interest to all who prize the sacred Scriptures — I have extended and amplified as the subject seemed to demand. I have endeavored to present accurate pictures of the places and scenery where I traveled, so that the reader, by using ar, it were my eyes, may have a kind of stereoscopic view of Plcrrr-ACE — DEDICATION. the same localities. To the general reader, to the student oi the Bible, to the tourist through the same countries — and who does not desire or intend sometime to make the journey ? — I trust this volume will be found both useful and entertaining.

In preparing the materials of my daily journal for the press, I have consulted several works on the Holy Land, and have derived especial aid from Dr. Thomson's " Land and the Book," Stanley's " Sinai and Palestine," and the " Hand-book of Syria and Palestine," compiled by Rev. J. L. Porter. While visiting, in Florence, the observatory of Galileo where by his improved telescope he made wondrous discoveries in the heavens, the saintly spirit of my precious mother, in her seventy fifth year, passed to her glorious home beyond the stars. And while ascending the Nile, near the place where the infant Moses was found in the flags of the river, my youngest child, a bright and darling boy in his fourth year, was taken up to the bosom of the Good Shepherd. To their blessed memories, and to my be loved Christian Flock, by whose approval and kind liberality the journey was undertaken, I dedicate this volume.

New Haven, Conn. CONTENTS. I.— THE PASSAGE— IRELAND— SCOTLAND. Embarking — Sea-life — Icebergs — "Whales— Saint Johns — Services — Land ho t— Queenstown— Cork — Blarney Castle — Sabbath in Killarney — The Lakes — Gap of Dunloe — Fourth of July Celebration — Limerick — Dublin — Presbyterian Assembly — Revival — Belfast— Dr. Cooke — Giant's Causeway — Round Towers — Trip to Scotland — The Highlands — Lochs Lomond and Katrine — Stirling Castle — Edinburgh — Abbotaford 13 II— ENGLAND— WALES— NOTED PLACES. Rural Scenery — Excursion to Caernarvon— Its Castle — Liverpool— Rev. Stowell Brown — Dr. Raffles— Bedford — Bunyan's Cottage— Cardington — Kettering — Northampton — Olney — Stratford-on-Avon — Leamington — Oxford — Southampton — Stonelienge — Isle of Wight 26 III.— LONDON— BUNHILL FIELDS— PREACHERS.

Greatness of London — Saint Paul's — Westminster Abbey — British Museum — Hampton Court — Windsor Castle — Houses of Parliament — Bunyan's Tomb — Smithfield — Spurgeon's Preaching — Dr. Cumming — Hall, Noel, Landels, and Brock — Prayer Meetings 37 IV.— FRANCE— BELGIUM— HOLLAND— THE RHINE Across the Channel — Rouen — Paris — Grand Military Pageant — American Chapel — Churches and Religion — The People — Parisian Attractions— Versailles — Belgian Scenery — Brussels — King Leopold — Waterloo — Antwerp — Churches— Rubens — Dutch-Land, Cities and Scenery — Aix-la-Chapelle — Tomb of Charlemagne — Relics — Cologne — On the Rhine — Drachenfels — Mayence— Frankfort — Heidelberg — Baden-Baden — Strasbourg — A Famous Clock... ..46 V.— SWITZERLAND— A TOUR IN THE ALPS. Mountain Scenery — Rail-Carriages— Geneva— Dr. Malan — The Arve — Mont Blanc — Chamouny— Flegere— Mer de Glace — Glaciers — Tete Noir— Martigny— Grand Saint Bernard— Dogs — The Morgue — Moonlight Drive— Baths of Leuk — Gemmi Pass— Thun — Interlachen— Swiss Lakes 61 VI— THE SWISS— ALPINE JOURNEYS— GERMANY.

Characteristics— Cottages— Productions— Sabbath Observance— Dust-Stream— Wengern Aip — Jungfrau — Avalanches — Grindelwald — Great Scheideck — Storm — Reichenbach — Happy Valley— Handek— Grimsel— Rhone Glacier— Furca— Devil's Bridge— Hume of Tell— Ascent of the Rigi— Storm— Predicament Mount Pilatus — Lucerne — Zurich — Constance — John Huss— Rhine Falls— Lake Constance— Augsburg VI CONTENTS. TIL— BAVAKIA— AUSTRIA— ITALY— VENICE. Munich— Art Galleries— Churches— Cemetery— EussiaD Bath— German People— The Tyrol — Salzburg — Mozart— Kufstein — Deep Well — A Criminal— Innsbruck— Wounded Soldiers— Brenner Bass— In Italy— Verona— Attractions of Venice — Gondolas — Murano and Lido — Badua — Solierino 90 VIII— MILAN— MANTUA— BOLOGNA— FLORENCE— PISA. Milan Cathedral — Last Supper— Incident- Birth-place of Virgil— Bologna- Apennines — Rural Aspects— People Excited— Productions — Florence — Pitti Palace— Uffizi Gallery— Churches— Mr. Powers— Protestant Services — A Singular Prisoner— Fiesole — Galileo's Observatory— Baptism and Funeral — Benefits of Travel— Contrasts — Pisa— Baptistery— Campo Santo— Cathedral — Leaning Tower — Leghorn to Rome 102 IX— ROME— ITS CHURCHES— THE VATICAN— TIVOLI.

The Et rnal City — Churches — Raphael's House — Saint Peter's — Interior, Roof, and Ball — Saint Paul's — Saint John Lateran — Holy Staircase — Paul's Hired House — Mamertine Prison — Tasso's Tomb — Cemetery of the Capuchins — The Vatican — Galleries — Paintings — Quirinal Palace — Spada — Festival in Sistine Chapel — The Pope — American College — Excursion to Tivoli — Hadrian's Villa 119 X.-OLD ROME— COLISEUM-CATACOMBS-CHRISTMAS. Ruins— Fountains— Capitol-Forum— Arch of Titus— Coliseum— Appian Way- Catacombs— Christmas Holidays— Pope and Cardinals at Saint Peter's— Bambino— Pope at the Church of the Jesuits— Priests and People— Romanism at Home— Villas and Studios— Pincian Hill-Italian Sunset 131 XI.-NAPLES-POMPEII-VESUVIUS-BAIÆ-MALTA. New Year— Rome to Naples— Herculaneum -Pompeii— House of Diomede— Borbonico Museum— Ascent of Vesuvius-Lava— Tomb of Virgil— Puteoli— Lake Avernus— Ruins of Baiæ— Malta 145 XII.-EGYPT-ALEXANDRIA-CAIEO.

" Land of Egypt"— Oriental Sights— Donkey Riding— Cleopatra's Needle— Pompey's Pillar — Catacombs — Pasha's Palace- Bazaars— Alexandria to Cairo- Sight of the Pyramids-Phases of Eastern Life— Weddiug— Mosques— Queer Test — Dancing Dervishes— shoohra Gardens - Petrified Forest — Heliopolis— Aged Sycamore— Fine Obelisk 154 XIII.— LAND OF MOSES-LIFE ON THE NILE. Sacred Associations — Missionaries — Salutation — Dragoman Engaged — On the Nile- Our Party — Climate — River-Soil— Productions— Irrigation— Scenery— Villages— Sand Storms— Girls— Fellaheen— Our Crew — Devotions— Fare — Festival— Ghawazee— Funeral— Quarrel -[ gg XIV.-THRBES-ITS TEMPLES AND TOMBS— DOWN THE RIVER. Grandeur of Thebes— Luxor— Mustapha Aga-Karnak— Temples— Colossal Statues-Tombs of the Kings— Mummy Pits— Down the Nile— Sights— Adventure* — Turkish Dignitary— Female Wrath 1 55 XV— MEMPHIS-THE PYRAMIDS— THE RED SEA.

Pyramids of Sakkara— Image of Remeses— Tomb of Apis— Pyramids of Ghlzeh— A Dream — Insolent Arabs — Asceut of the Great Pyramid — Interior — The Sphinx— Leaving the Nile— Excursion— The Desert-Mirage— Red Sea-Passage of the Israelites— Wells of Moses CONTENTS. VII XVI— PALESTINE-JOPPA TO JERUSALEM. Entering the Holy Land— Joppa-House of Simon— Oranges— Gate of the City- Peter's Vision— Dorcas — Hedges of Cactus— Plain of Sharon— Philistia— Lydda — Ramleh— Women Weeping at a Grave— Latron— Valley of Ajalon— Kirjath-jearim — First Sight of Olivet and Jerusalem. 207 XVII— THE HOLY CITY— OLIVET— CALVARY. Jaffa Gate — "Mount Zion — Hotel— Pool of Hezekiah— House-top View— Walk to Olivet — The Kedron — View of Jerusalem— Panorama — Paths of Jesus— House of Pilate— Temple Area— Via Dolorosa— Calvary— Church of the Holy Sepulchre — Tomb of Jesus 222 XVIII. -A WALK ABOUT ZION— BETHANY.

A Synagogue — Wailing-Place*— Relics of a Great Arch— Jews' Quarter — Lepers — Armenian Convent— Tomb of David— American Cemetery — Lower Pool of Gihon— Valley ofHinnom — En-Rogel — Valley of Jehoshaphat— Pool of Siloam — Tombs — Golden Gate — English Church— Walk to Bethany— Tomb of Lazarus — Passage over Olivet — Preaching on Mount Zion 235 XIX— POOLS OF SOLOMON— HILL COUNTRY-HEBRON. Hill of Evil Council— Cultivated Fields— Well of the Wise Men— Plain of Rephaim — Convent of Elijah— Sight of Bethlehem — Tomb of Rachel— Pools of Solomon — Fountain Sealed— Contrast — ■' Hill Country of Judea" — Tekoa— Haunts of David— Beth-zur— Valley of Eschol— Hebron— Camping Ground- Cave of Machpelah— Tent-Life 253 XX— HOME OF THE PATRIARCHS— BETHLEHEM— MAR SABA. Breakfast— Hebron— Abraham's Oak— Grape Slips— Old Aqueduct— Vale of Etam —Bethlehem— Church of the Nativity— Stable and Manger— Convent of Santa Saba 260 XXI.— THE DEAD SEA AND THE JORDAN.

Our Bedawin Guard — Approach to the Dead Sea — En gedi— Robbers— Lake Scenery~Sea of Death— Cities of the Plain— A Bath— River Jordan— Nebo— Death of Moses— Prophets of the Jordan — Baptism of Christ — Bathing of the Pilgrims 27T XXII.-JERICHO TO JERUSALEM. Gilgal— Brook Cherith— Roman Jericho — City of Palm Trees— Quarantania— Apples of Sodom— Fountain of Elisha— Scripture Sites — Adummim — Foot-steps of Jesus— Place of Thieves— Mustapha— Bethany . 294 XXIII— CITY OF THE GREAT KING— GETHSEMANE. Jerusalem— Upper Pool of Gihon— Tombs of the Kings— Quarry under the City- Tomb of the Virgin— Gethsemane — Aged Olive- Trees— Tearful Emotions— Prayer-Meeting in the Garden — Impressions — Pool of Bethesda 804 XXIV— BENJAMIN-GIBEON-GIBEAH-BETHEL. Mount Scopus — Last View of the Holy City— Heights of Benjamin — Nob— Mizpeh— Gibeon— Sun Standing Still — Gibeah— Rizpah's Griel— Ramah— Beeroth — Bible Topography — Bethel and its Associations — Abraham and Lot— Battle of Ai— Rimmou— Ophra CONTENTS.

XXV.— EPHRA1M— SHILOH-PLAIN OF MOREH— JACOB'S WELL. Fertility Amidst Rocky Desolation— Yebrud— Fountain of Robbers— Picturesque Scenes— Shiloh— Lebonah— Arab Horses— Plain of Mukhna— Armed Natives- Salutations— Jacob's Well 8-9 XXVI— NABLUS— SHECHEM— MOUNT GERIZIM. Tomb of Joseph— Vale of Nablus— Reading the Law— Shechem— Olive-Trees— Ascent of Muunt Gerizim— Samaritan Temple— A Shrine— View from the Summit —Samaritan Synagogue— An Old Copy of the Pentateuch— Lepers— Scenes by the Way— Shepherds— Be da win 341 XXVII— SAMARIA— DOTHAN— PASSES OF MANASSEH. The " Hill Samaria"— Church of Saint John— Grand Colonnade— Inhabitants- Bible Events— Jeba— Plain of Sanur— Tell Dothain— Pits or Dry Cisterns— Joseph Sold— A Celestial Army— Kubatieh— Jenin 851 XXVIII— PLAIN OF ESDRAELON— JEZREEL— SHUNEM— NAIN.

Valley of Megiddo — Verdure— Gilboa — Jezreel— Naboth's Vineyard— Bethshean — Gideon's Army— Battle of Mount Tabor— Bedawin Tents — The Shunamite Woman— Little Hermon — Visit to Nain — Endor — Saul and the Witch 3ti0 XXIX.— MOUNT TABOR AND THE SEA OF GALILEE. Ascent of Tabor— First Sight of the Sea of Galilee — Magnificent View — Scene of the Transfiguration — Trial of Baal at Carmel — The JJew Prophet — Fine Morning — Sons of Ishmael — On the Bank of the Lake — Tiberias — Hot Springs. .870 XXX. — PLAIN OF GENNESARETH — CAPERNAUM — SEA OF GALILEE. Along the Shore — Magdala— " Land of Gennesaret"— Chinnereth — Bethsaida — Capernaum — Home of Jesus — Back to the Tents — Sunday at the Sea of Galilee — Services — Last View of the Lake — Poem 381 XXXI.— MOUNT OF BEATITUDES— CANA— NAZARETH. Sermon on the Mount — Battle of Hattin — Cana — Yale of Nazareth — Church of the Annunciation — Work-shop of Joseph — Mensa Christi — Girls at the Fountain of the Virgin — Evening in Nazareth — Fine View from the Hill — Footprints of Jesus — Sefurieh — Mt. Carmel — Thunder storm — Plain of Acre.. ..895 XXXII— PHŒNICIA— COAST OF TYRE AND SIDON.

Saint Jean d'Acre — Achzib — High Promontory — Alexander's Tent — Ladder ol Tyre — Ras el-'Ain— Aqueducts — Tyre, its Present Aspect and Ruins — Paul's Visit — River Leontes— A Curious Story — Roman Relies — Sarepta — The Poor Widow — Footsteps of Jesus — Approach to Sidon— Fruit Gardens— A Christian Family — Sidon to Beirut m XXXIII— BEIRUT— SMYRNA— CONSTANTINOPLE— ATHENS— HOME. Situation of Beirut — Dr. Thomson — Sabbath Service — Farewell to the Holy Land — On the Mediterranean — Cyprus — Rhodes — Patmos — Sights in Smyrna — Mitylene — Ilium — Situation of Constantinople — Saint Sophia — Mosques- Tombs— Seraglio Palace — Bosphorus to Black Sea — Golden Horn — Classio Shores and Islands — Athene ; its Scenery and Temples — Mars' Hill — Mount Ætna — Messina — Marseilles— Paris— Homeward Bound 423 Appendix — Visit of the Prince of Wales to the Cave of Machpelah LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

Mosque of Omar — Temple Area Frontispiece. Palm Trees Title-page. Bunyan's Cottage at Elstow 30 Hospice of St. Bernard 70 Florence from the South-East 118 The Nile at old Cairo 174 Ghawazee or Lancing Girls 182 Euins of Karnak at Thebes . 188 House with a Chamber on the Roof or "Wall. 210 House-Top or Roof and Battlements 210 "Women "Weeping at a Grave 218 Pool of Hezekiah, Olivet, etc 224 "Wailing Place of the Jews 238 Absalom's Tomb, (Restored) 246 Bethany 250 Bethlehem 272 The Lead Sea from the North-West 280 The Jordan, at the Supposed Place of Christ's Baptism 286 Jerusalem from the North-East 318 Capernaum and Sea of Galilee 394 Skin Bottles and "Water Jars 400 Vale of Nazaeeth EUROPE, EGYPT, AND THE HOLY LAM). i. Waj. passage— Ittlani— JMtnfr. The Old World! It had been for years my eager desire and hope to see it — to be a pilgrim in its lands historic and sacred, with which are associated the great and thrill ing events of the past.

I had longed to look upon its mountains, lakes, and rivers, its cities and peoples, its monuments and ruins. At length, by a favoring Providence, the way was prepared, and the preliminaries of the tour arranged. The City of Elms, and dear friends, offering their prayers and benedic tions, were left behind ; and on a beautiful day at noon I embarked from New York on the steamer City of Washington. It was a sad moment, parting with those who had accompanied me to the ship. We watched each other, I on deck and they on the wharf, waving our handkerchiefs, till we could discern each other no longer. Then there were tearful eyes on ship and shore. Such a scene and one's indescribable emotions are not to be forgotten, as the ship begins to move, and bears him away, away, till friends and native land fade from sight.

I knew but one of the passengers, the Rev. A. D. Gillette, D. D., of New York, my genial compagnon du voyage. 1* SEA-LIFE — ICEBERGS ST. JOHNS. The weather for two days was delightful, though the swell of the sea was considerable from a previous storm. A large majority of the passengers were sea sick, some of them severely so, scarcely appearing at the table during the voyage. I escaped entirely ; and notwithstanding it was a somewhat long and rough passage, I enjoyed it. On the third day out, we met the Persia, and exchanged shouts and salutations'. The monotony of sea-life is broken in various ways. Now it is calm and clear, and the sun goes down to rest in a bed of molten gold. Then come fogs and rains and gales, and the waves roll and break furiously, while the ship careens and pitches as she struggles on.

There is something indescribably grand in the extent and movements of " this great and wide sea.1' I watch it for hours with constant and delightful thoughts of Him who holds the waters in the hollow of His hand, and whose footsteps are in the great deep. I had longed to see icebergs, and was gratified. Among several, seen at different times, one was gloriously magnificent and beautiful, as it loomed up at some distance, like a splendid architectural pile, with domes and minarets glittering in the setting sun. I was favored also with the sight of several whales sporting and spouting, and partly throwing their huge forms out of the sea. The sight of land was pleasant, as we entered the harbor of St. Johns, Newfoundland, to take the passengers of the Edinburgh, wrecked by an iceberg, among whom was a member of my dear flock, who, in the hour of awful peril, was calm in the hope and peace which Jesus gives.

This detention, and constant head-winds, made our passage long. SERVICES LAND ho ! BLARNEY castle. 15 Many agreeable acquaintances were male and con versations held, to be remembered as a perpetual pleasure. The number of passengers was large, and the regulations of the ship admirable. Capt. Petrie was ever cheerful, and unwearied in his efforts to make all comfortable and happy. He read the English Church Service on each of the two Sahbaths, and on the second, two sermons were also preached by Presbyterian and Baptist ministers. On the last evening before the coast of the Emerald Isle greeted our glad sight, we had a very pleasant literary enter tainment. Poems were read and recited, speeches made, and songs sung. Instead of proceeding to Liverpool, we, with several others, left the steamer as she touched at Qneenstown, on the evening of July 1st. We had been over thirteen d.ij's on the sea, and it was grateful to stand again on the solid ground.

We were detained but a little by the Custom-house officers, and soon found comfortable quarters at Queen's Hotel. M)T first day in Ireland was one of much enjoyment. In the midst of objects strange and novel, excitement ran high, and it was easy to laugh or to weep. The scenery from Queenstown to Cork, and thence to Blarney Castle, is various and enchanting. Hills, valleys, cultivated fie'ds, flowing streams, fine build ings, and old ruins, were surveyed with delighted admiration. This old castle, containing the famous "Blarney Stone," is a grand ruin, covered with ivy, and situated amidst beautiful grounds. We climbed to the top of its tower, and enjoyed the view it presents. SABBATH IN KILLARNEY THE LAKES. The same afternoon we went by railway to Killarney, in the South of Ireland. Everywhere the fields looked green and rich, bearing good crops, and making a striking entrast with the miserable mud-cabins scat tered among them.

The next day was Sunday. We walked from the Lake Hotel, about two miles, to the town, over a fine road with a high stone wall and locked gates each side, to the Episcopal church, where we heard from a curate an excellent sermon, evangelical and earnest ; but the audience was small. Pas sing up the principal street after service, we found it full of people, ragged and filthy for the most part, looking as though they had just come out of the wretched huts, matted thickly together, and forming the queerest looking town I had ever seen. I was informed that many of these people were from the region about, and had come to hire out and be hired for the week. We called at the Wesleyan Chapel, and saw the minister, who insisted that one of us should preach in the evening, and the other give an account of the American revival, in which they were greatly interested.

Dr. Gillette preached, and I spoke cf the revival, more particularly as I had witnessed it in my own city and congregation. Out of a population of nine thousand in this town, there are but one hundred Protestant communicants. The multitudes are ignorant, degraded Papists. The next day, July 4th, was one of marked interest. A party of a dozen or more Americans, mostly fellow voyagers across the Atlantic, made tbe tour of the mountains and lakes of Killarney. We rode several miles on Irish jaunting cars, a vehicle I like much for FINE SCENERY FOURTH OF JULY. 17 its ease and convenience. It has but two wheels, and you sit back to back, two or three on a side, looking into the fields each way. One horse will thus easily draw six persons besides the driver, who sits in front. We then walked through the Gap of Lunloe, passing the cottage of Kate Kearney.

The scenery, embracing high, conical, bare and rocky hills, and deep vales, with little lakes and lively streams and cascades, is at once wild, beautiful and grand. We were followed by jolly Irish peasant girls, some with bottles of " Mountain Dew," a kind of whiskey, and others with goat's milk, pertinaciously urging us to buy the "punch," and not succeeding they begged as persis tently for pennies. At length we reached by a long descent, the head of the lakes, where we took boats, and by strong arms were rowed through a succession of lovely sheets of water, linked together by narrow crystal outlets, and hemmed around by mountainous cliffs and green hills, ever-changing in form, as we glided along a circuit of many miles, till we reached our hotel. Now and then, under some tall cliff, the bugle was sounded, and delightful echoes given.

As we passed Eagle's Nest, a bird of Jove soared from the summit of the mountain and swept over our heads. '"Tis the Agle of Indepindence," shouted one of the sturdy oarsmen, and their lusty "hurrahs!" sounded out in honor of the glorious Fourth and of us Amer icans. We had made arrangements for a sort of extempo raneous celebration on our return. We had a fine dinner. The American flag was hoisted on a pole ; tfie Declaration of Independence was read ; an Ora- CELEBRATION LIMERICK DUBLIN. 18 tion and Poem were delivered, the former by William E. Robinson, Esq., of New York, tbe latter fell to my lot; thirteen toasts were proposed, and eloquent and appropriate speeches made. Dr. Gillette spoke in behalf of the clergy. The following is one verse of the Poem : 0, Country of Freedom ! What music to-day Breaks over thy vastness With jubilant sway '.

I hear the glad sound Stealing o'er the wide sea, And my heart beats response To the Song of the Free ! The celebration, all of which was in good taste aud order, closed with a moderate display of fireworks. The occasion excited much pleasant interest. The editor of the County newspaper was present, and published in his next issue a full account, including the speeches and poem ; and we saw a notice of the celebration in various papers of the kingdom. On the way to Dublin, we stopped at a railway junction and made an excursion to Limerick, and spent two hours in walking about that old city and on the banks of the Shannon. We passed several days in Dublin, including a Sabbath. It is a fine city, con taining many ohjects of interest. We visited the Botanical Gardens, Trinity College, on Commence ment day, and saw students in their black gowns, and Professors in their red ones ; the Royal Society, con taining many ancient relics of Ireland ; and Christ's aud St. Patrick's churches, in the latter of which Dean Swift officiated, and was buried.

The Presbyterian PRESBYTERIAN ASSEMBL Y REVI V AL. 19 General Assembly of Ireland was in session, and we attended several of its meetings, which were of marked interest, especially the accounts of the great and mar velous religious awakening in progress in the North of Ireland. Some of the ministers said there had been more conversions in two or three weeks in their con gregations, than in twenty years before. Some even of the ministers had been converted, confessing that though they had preached the gospel correctly, they had never till now preached it with Jesus in their hearts. Convictions are deep, striking and powerful. Many are prostrated physically, and seem to lie almost unconscious for awhile. These strange bodily mani festations are not encouraged, and are regarded as accidents of a great and glorious work of the Spirit of God.

Meetings are held nearly every evening, the churches are crowded, and day meetings are held in the open air. Some of the converts say they were awakened by letters from America. Prayers offered in our revival meetings are no doubt being answered in Ireland. We heard, one evening, an address from Brownlow North, Esq., and formed some pleasant acquaintances with members of the Assembly, and by invitation, dined with Rev. Dr. Kirkpatrick, in whose church they met, and breakfasted with the whole Assembly in the Rotunda, where the ladies provided each morning for about four hundred ministers and delegates. We dined also with a large-hearted Elder, who took us in his family carriage three miles out, to the Roebuck House, his beautiful suburban residence, and allowed us to wander over his richly cultivated BELFAST GIANT'S CAUSEWAY. gardens and gather as many large and delicious straw berries as we chose.

We were kindly entertained also by the pastor of the Baptist church, who accompanied us to the beau tiful region in the County of Wicklow— including a visit to Powerscourt Waterfall, and the Gh-n of the Downs — and prevailed on us to occupy his pulpit on the Sabbath, and give some sketches of the work of God in the United States. His people were very much interested, and lingered to converse with us after service, and listen to some of the hymns and tunes sung in our revival meetings. We were introduced to sev eial Episcopal clergymen, who are much interested in the revival, and unite with others in prayer-meetings, and wre dined with one at his pleasant manse a few miles from Dublin. These cordial and brotherly greet ings and kind hospitalities evinced a generous Chris tian spirit, and were gratefully appreciated.

Belfast, which we next visited, is a thriving, Amer ican-like city. On our way thither we passed through Drogheda, where the battle of Boyne was fought, July 1, 1690. The venerable Dr. Cooke, at the head of the Presbyterian ministry in Ireland, having been half a century in the service, kindly conducted us to sever al immense linen manufactories, the College aud The ological Seminary, in which he is a professor, and in sisted on our dining at his house. We passed Bally mena on our way to Portrush, and saw several religious meetings iu the open air in progress. We had now reached the northern coast of the island, and were in sight of the far-famed Giant's Causeway. A few miles by jaunting car brought us to the spot. But we paused EOUND TOWERS — ROMANISM. 21 mid-way to survey the grand old ruins of Dunluce Castle, perched on the edge of a cliff hundreds of feet above the sea.

It is impossible to give an adequate description of the Giant's Causeway, familiar from childhood in pictures which utterly fail to delineate it. It is a magnificent affair, however, wonderfully bold and unique in its configurations, embracing deep caves, bridge-like abutments, high bluffs and perpendicular columns of basalt and trap. In our journeys through Ireland we noticed not only ruined castles, but many ancient Round Towers, some of them a hundred and fifty feet high, and in a good state of preservation. They commonly stand alone, and their origin and object appear to be wrapped in mystery. Ireland is more beautiful than I had sup posed, and where Protestantism prevails, the people are intelligent and thrifty; but it is all tbe reverse under Romanism, which is the curse of the country.

An other evil is the large land-estates, making the masses all tenants. There are great extremes among the peo ple — the rich and upper class, and tho lower class, very poor, with hardly any that may be called a middle class. There is a marked distinction between Ireland and Scotland. They are different in their scenery, different in the characteristics of the people. Indeed, one is struck with "the perceptible change in various respects, as he travels from the center to the North of Ireland. The cabins of the people grow better, their language is more Scottish, the accent broader, and they look better and thriftier in every way. This change is owing to the more general prevalence of TRIP TO SCOTLAND — THE HIGHLANDS. Protestantism in the North. Romanism is a dead weight upon the masses who adhere to it.

It crushes the very life of liberty and enterprise out of them. Happy will it be for Ireland when its terrible yoke shall be broken. The present glorious revival is a star of hope and promise. We had a fine trip by steamer from Portrush to Oban, on the west coast of Scotland. It took us from morning till late at night. We stopped a couple of hours at Islay, a Scottish island. In wandering upon the shore and through a village, we came to the open door of a school-room, and were invited in by the teacher. He called up a class, and exhibited their proficiency in various branches of study. They acquitted themselves well. The school-room was attached to a house of worship. Here, I thought, is a symbol of Scottish character — religion and education united. I do not remember to have seen a school house in Ireland — none in the rural districts.