New Light on Dark Africa: being the narrative of the German Emin Pasha Expedition. ... Translated from the German by H. W. Dulcken. ... With ... illustrations ... and ... coloured map, etc

Front matter

NEW LIGHT ON DARK AFRICA. DR. CARL PETERS. iboptA.CS hai New Light on Dark Africa*. BEING THE NARRATIVE OF Zbc (Bcrman _£mtn Ipasba EypeMtion, ITS JOURNEYINGS AND ADVENTURES AMONG THE NATIVE TRIBES OF EASTERN EQUATORIAL AFRICA, THE GALLAS, MASSAIS, WASUKUMA, ETC, ETC, ON THE LAKE BARINGO AND THE VICTORIA NYANZA. RELATED BY DR. CARL PETERS, THE COMMANDER OF THE EXPEDITION. TRANSLATED FROM THE GERMAN BY H. W. DULCKEN, Ph.D. WITH THIRTY-TWO PAGE ENGRAVINGS AND SIXTY-FIVE OTHER ILLUSTRATIONS FROM DESIGNS BY RUDOLF HELLGREWE, AND A LARGE EXPLANATORY COLOURED MAP, REPRESENTING THE PROGRESS OF THE EXPEDITION FROM DAY TO DAY. WARD, LOCK, AND Co., LONDON, NEW YORK, AND MELBOURNE. 1891. [All Rights Reserved.] Printed by Hazell_ Watson, &" X'iney, Ld._ London and Aylesbury. AUTHOR'S

Preface

. IN the following representation of the German Emin Pasha Expedition I have to give as clear a picture as possible of the outward course and of the inward con nection of the German enterprise undertaken for the purpose of aiding Emin Pasha to maintain his position on the Upper Nile. The narrative, written down immediately after the conclusion of the expedition, is based upon our memoranda and upon reports received on the spot, and may accordingly also in its subjective sense claim to possess the value of truthful instantaneous photographic representations. Upon the correctness of the views .expressed on separate points there will be disputes ; but I shall consider my task in the following book as fulfilled if, allowing for this diversity of opinion, I have succeeded in enabling the reader to form an accurate and a clear conception of the external and the in ward course of the German Emin Pasha Expedition.

Such being my endeavour, I am scarcely called upon to offer an apology for beginning the narrative of the undertaking with the enterprise itself, instead of giving a detailed prelimi nary history, reaching back, if possible, to the times of the Pharaohs. I take it for granted that the reader of this book, when he takes it into his hand, just wants to know what was the course of our expedition, and will be glad to dispense with details which he will find in a better and more connected AUTHOR'S

PREFACE.

. VI form in other books, and which are not at all necessary for the comprehension of the following narrative. Now that I am giving to the public this history of the German Emin Pasha Expedition, I am obeying an impulse of my heart in once more expressing my thanks to those to whose co-operation it must be attributed that the under taking ended in the manner described in the following pages, and that it did not collapse at the very beginning, or come to a tragic conclusion on the continent of Africa, as it often appeared about to do. In this place I publicly offer my thanks to the men who, in the German Emin Pasha Committee, backed and supported the undertaking at home, and to the high-hearted subscribers who, by their liberal and ready assistance, enabled our expedition to be realised. I also thank my comrades in the expedition yonder, among whom Herr von Tiedemann was my constant and faithful companion, while Herr Oskar Borchert proved, by his journey up the Tana, that he was imbued with the spirit which alone can achieve the right result in such affairs.

But after all, even with such support, I should not have been in a position to write a description of the German Emin Pasha Expedition had not a higher Hand manifestly led us, through all hindrances and dangers, back to our native land. In all humility we have to offer thanks to Providence that it has been vouchsafed to us to return home in safety from the elevated plateaus of Leikipia and from the incalculable entanglements in the countries on Lake Victoria. CARL PETERS. Essen, "Auf dem Huoel," February 1st, 1891.

PREFACE.

TO THE ENGLISH EDITION. THE book here offered to the English public, in a form which every effort has been made to render an attractive one, has already, in its original German garb, been received with emphatic appreciation and general approval by a large number of readers. Accordingly, the publishers consider themselves justified in looking confidently forward to an equal measure of success for this, the English edition of Dr. Peters's valuable and interesting work. The question of the opening up of Dark Africa, with its vast prospects for trade, commerce, and agriculture, and still more important capabilities for the diffusion of Christianity and the spread of civilisation, is coming more and more to the front, and occupies a continually increasing amount of public atten tion. The natural desire for information on this great and important subject has been increased and stimulated by the works on the African continent, that have lately appeared from the pens of eminent travellers and explorers ; the more so, per haps, from the wide divergences in the views ancl the methods of action advocated by the various authors.

It has always been the custom in England, " according to the fair play of the world," to give an impartial hearing to the different statements put forward by those whose experience and labours entitle them to speak on an important subject. Englishmen like to know what each man has to say, rather than give their unhesitating adhesion to the perhaps dogmatic views of any one writer. " In a multitude of counsellors there is wisdom ; " — and nowhere more than on the question of carrying

PREFACE.

TO THE ENGLISH EDITION. forward the banner of culture and Christianity into regions now desert, but where, in future ages, civilisation's lofty scenes shall — " Be acted over, In states unborn, and accents yet unknown." Among those writers who have earned an incontrovertible right to be listened to with respect, Dr. Carl Peters undoubtedly stands in the first rank. That he has, in the fullest sense of the term, thrown " New Light " upon Dark Africa, no unprejudiced and impartial reader of his work will for a moment be disposed to doubt. Fearlessly, and with a transparent honesty of intention which will especially commend itself to English sympathies, he claims for his country a share in the great work of the civilisation of Africa ; criticises his competitors with outspoken frankness, without withholding from them his meed of admiration ; protests boldly where he considers himself hardly dealt with ; points out what he considers to have been errors in judgment and action, and gives his reasons in every case.

He has the courage of his opinions, and his trumpet gives no uncertain sound ; but while he frankly dispenses praise and blame, he tells his own story with an equally plain straightforwardness, and an absence alike of self-laudation and self-depreciation singularly graceful in a man who has passed through great perils, and achieved very remarkable results, with very moderate means. Mr. Stanley, in a passage in his "Darkest Africa" (Vol. II. , p. 406), says : " It is to be the destiny of the Germans to carry out this work" (the civilisation of LTgogo), "and," he adds, "I envy them." The leader of the enterprise here recorded under took it in this spirit. No man more completely dedicated himself to a great task, or carried it out with more persistent devotion and daring ; and in every page the reader will see vindicated the soundness of the judgment that placed Dr. Carl Peters in authority as the head of a most important national undertaking.

Various fallacies dissipated, a fund of useful information gained, and the ground prepared for future work and progress in Africa, may justly be chronicled as constituting the triumphant results of the German Emin Pasha Expedition. H. W. D. CONTENTS.

Chapter I. In Germany

PAGE First Ideas of an Expedition. — Stanley's Departure for Africa. — Steps towards a German Expedition. — Managing Committee Appointed. — -Amount of Money Required. — Dr. Peters Appointed Commander. — Arrangements with Lieutenant Wissmann. — State of Eastern Africa. — Encouragement from Prince Bismarck. — Proposed Tana Route. — Rumours concerning Emin Pasha. — Communication from Count Herbert von Bismarck. — The Expedition to Start under Dr. Peters. — Choosing Officers. — Doubts and Difficulties in Prospect . 1 — 18

Chapter II. In Zanzibar And Tiie Blockaded Territory

Insurrectionary Districts to be Avoided. — Supply of Soldiers and Porters. — Shipping Arms. — In Aden. — Commencement of Difficulties. — Prohibitions and Restrictions. — Landing at Merka Abandoned. — Vexatious Proceedings and Useless Efforts in Zanzibar. — Threats of the Sultan. — The Neœra Chartered. — Confiscation of Weapons. — Report to the Committee. — By Steamer to Bagamoyo. — Departure of Herr Bley. — Conference with Admiral Fremantle. — Authority from the Committee. — Departure for Dar-es-Salam. — The Voyage. — Alarm of Fire. — Scarcity of Water. — Danger of Shipwreck. — Arrival at Kwaihu Bay. — At Pasa. — Embarkation of Recruits. — Proceedings of Admiral Fremantle. — Navigation in Dhows. — Siyu Canal. — Passage to Shimbye. — Arrival in Witu 19 — 45

Chapter III. In The Sultan

ITE OF WITU. Success of the Commander's Plan. — Delay and Doings at Shimbye. — Report to Germany. — Visit to Wanga. — Exaggerated Reports. — A Hurried Departure. — H.B.M.S. Boadicea and the Blockade. — X CONTENTS. PAGE Landing of the Expedition at Mgine. — Rendezvous at Hindi. — The Neœra Brought to Book.—" Where is Dr. Peters ? "—Diplo matic Correspondence with Admiral Fremantle. — Letter Received from Herr Borchert. — The Neœra Seized and Taken to Zanzibar. —The Consequent " Neœra Lawsuit." — Difficulty of Procuring Porters. — Division of the Expedition. — Porterage. — Disciplining the Company. — Manners of the Natives. — Character of the Somalis. — Troubles of the Rainy Season. — The Start from Hindi. — Unruliness of the Porters. — Missing Loads and Deserting Bearers. — New Recruits. — System of Rewards and Punishments, Rules, etc. — Camp at Mansamarabu. — Our March to Witu. — The Scenery, etc. — Swamp and Forest. — The Plain. — Sultan Fumo Bukari. — Statistics of Witu. — Grand Reception. — Report to the Committee. — Negotiations. — The Somalis. — Sheriff Hussein. — Preparations for Departure. — ProsperoLis Condition osthe Column. - — Departure for Engatana ....... 46 — 76

Chapter IV. Up The Tana To The Gallas

The First Day's March. — Encampment in the Valley. — Buana Shamo Promises a Guide. — Poetry of Camp Life. — Start for Ngao. — Aspect of the Country. — Search for Water. — Camping in the Wapokomo Quarters. — Arrival at the Tana. — German Missionary Station at Ngao. — Scarcity of Food. — Discontent in the Column. — Ants and Mosquitoes. — " Shauri " with the Porters. — Desertions. — The Missionary Wiirz. — Departure from Ngao. — The Boats at Marfano. — Disappointment and Discouragement. — The Monsoon. — Dr. Peters's Illness. — His Letter to his Friend Hofmann. — On the Banks of the Tana. — Supplies from Witu. — Untrustworthy Somali Messengers. — Rumours of the English Expedition. — Hussein's Diplomatic Proposal. — Smith's English Expedition. — Camp at Engatana. — Hamiri's Failure. — Missionary Heddenstrom. — Dangers at Mitole. — Parting from the Wapokomo. — Scenery of the Tana. — The Steppe. — Animal Life. — Climate. — A Cheerful March. — Complaints of the Elders. — Hamiri's Eloquence. — Hiring Boatmen. — Foreign Hostility. — Departure by Boats from Muina. — Good News. — Supplies. — Passage of the Tana. — Arab Treachery. — Nderani. — Miaus. — Characteristics of the Wapokomo. — Interview with the Sultan Suakini. — German Flag at Malalulu.— Massa.— Wapokomo Festival. — The Galla Regions. — Kidori. — Nature of the Mboni. — Hamiri and Pembo moto. — -Traces of the English Expedition. — Sources of the Tana. — Scarcity. — Triumphal March to Oda-Boru-Ruva . . . 77-123 CONTENTS. XI

Chapter V. With The Gallas In Oda-boru-ruva

PAGE Scouts Sent Across the River. —On the Tana. —Sultan of Gallas. —The Gallas. —The Wapokomo. —The Suaheli of the Tana. —Characteristics of the Gallas. —Negotiations with the Sultan. —Waiting for the Second Column. —Sultan Hugo's Concessions. —Mr. Pigott's Expedition. —Mr. Smith's Expedition. —Consultation with Sultan Hugo. — Explanation on Both Sides. — Treaty Between the Sultan and Dr. Peters. —Illness of Herr von Tiedemann. —Sojourn Among the Gallas. —Von der Heydt House. —Bad Conduct of the Gallas. —Alarming Reports. —Defeat of the Gallas. —Hostages. — Grain Stores Seized. —Hostile Somali. —Gall-Galla's Cunning. — Sultan Gallo. — His Deposition. — Sadeh made Sultan. — The Treaty. —Waiting for Rust's Column. —Difficulties. —Instructions to Lieutenant-Captain Rust. —Proposed Route of Dr. Peters. — Discretion Allowed. —Decision to Cross the Steppe . . . 124-151

Chapter VI. On The Upper Tana To Kikuyu

Exceptional Character of the Expedition. — Delays of the Gallas. — Grain Wanted. — Stragglers. — Galamba. — The Women and Children to be sent Back. — The Fugitives on the River. — Yembamba's Doleful Narrative. — Course of the Tana. — Its Islands. — Tana Settlements. — Glorious Hameje. — The Lion's Visit. — Cataracts of the Tana. — Hofmann Falls. — Branches. — Tiedemann's Hill. — Emperor William II. Mountains. — Boat Voyage. — Krapfs Conjectures Concerning the Tana. — Great Volcanic Elevated Plateau. — Jibije and Mountain Range. — The Wandorobbo Tribe. — Projected Route. — Embassy to the Wandorobbo. — Tokens of Approaching Strife. — Insolent Demands. — Negotiations. — A Bad Bargain. — Order of March. — Nogola's Misbehaviour and Punishment. — Attack with Poisoned Arrows. — Explorations on the Tana. — A Dangerous Position and Timely Rescue. — Somalis and " Strayed " Cattle. — The Tana : Question of Fords. — Barakka's Accident. — The Forest and its Animals. — The Kiloluma Fall. — Wakamba. — The Wadsagga and their Country. — Krupp's Mountain. — Marongo and his Demands. — War with the Wadsagga. — Their Punishment. — Tree Warriors. — Difficulties of the Mountain March. — Excited Somalis. — A Resolute Policy maintained. — Herr von Tiedemann's Position. — How to Cross the Tana. — The Raft and the Rope. — Building the Bridge. — Difficulties and Failure. — CONTENTS.

PAGE The Augusta Victoria Fall. —Hunting Incidents, etc. —The Carl Alexander Cataract. —Schweinfurth Fall and Krapf Hill. — Steppe of Ukumba Kitui. —Passage of the Dika. —The Tana Con quered.—The Kenia Mountain. — The Friendly Wakikuyu. — Passage of the Marawa. —Solemn Entry into Konse . . 152 —212

Chapter VII. Through The Massais, Over The Leikipia Plateau To The Baringo

LAKE. Stay at Kikuyu. — The Thievish Wakikuyu. — March through the Kikuyu Country. — Treacherous Customs of the Country. — Region of the Guaso Nyiro. — Moimtain Region. — The Leikipia Plateau. — The Kenia Peak. — Guaso Nyiro River. — Question of Water Supply. — The Gretchen-Thal. — Plan of the Expedition. — The Massais and their Characteristics. — Nomadic Herdsmen. — Their Warlike Propensities. — The Elmoran, or Warrior Massais. — Their Equipment, Customs, etc. — The Gnare Gobit. — Meeting with Massai Warriors. — The Chief Kraal of Elbejet. — Rukua, our Interpreter. — Insolence of the Natives. — Hostile Demonstrations. — Attack on Elbejet. — Attack by the Elmoran. — Battle with the Massais. — Burning of Elbejet. — Orders for an Advance. — Rout of the Massais. — Precautions against Surprise. — Opportune Eclipse. — A Disturbed Christmas Eve. — The March Resumed. — Peace Proposals and Treaty. — The Dongo Gelesha Range. — Teleki Rock. — Hostile Massais. — Joyful Meeting with Herr von Tiedemann. — Difficult March. — The Guaso Narok. — Thomson's Route. — Desertion of Porters. — Water Found. — A New Year. — Talk with the Wandorobbo. — The Guaso Tien River. — Lake Baringo and its Surroundings. — Crossing the Guaso na Nyuki. — Arrival at Njemps 213—269

Chapter VIII. From Tiie Baringo To The Victoria Nyanza Territory

Ways and Means. — Herr von Tiedemann's Illness. — Massai Agriculture. — The Wakuafi, or Dealers. — Report to the Committee. — Communication with Oda-Boru-Ruva. — Treaty with the Wakuafi. — Mr. de Winton's and Other Expeditions. — Arrangements for our Advance towards the West. — The Kamasia Plateau. — Pemba Motu and the Wakamasia. — Land of Elgejo. — Demonstrations of the Natives. — Conversation with Arabs. — Report on Kawirondo. — Candle Manufacture. — Death of the Somali Achmed. CONTENTS. XIII PAGE — People of Elgejo. — Kirobani, the Guide. — A Carnivorous Camel. — Elgejo Guides. — Fight with the Waelgejo. — Easy Victory. — March to the Angata na Nyuki. — Grand Solitude of Nature. — Violent Tropical Thunderstorms. — A Dream and an Imaginary Conversation.— Wild Cattle.— Route to Kabaras.— News of White Men. — A Letter to a Possible European. — The Kawirondo People. — Mr. Thomson's Opinions. — A Land of Plenty. — Conversation with the Sultan's Messengers. — The Sakwa's Possessions. — Town of Sakwa. — Porters from English Expedition. — Arrival of Ali Somal. — Accounts of Emin Pasha. — Bewildering News. — The Sultan's Proposal. — Report on the Wasoga and Waganda. — Sakwa's Politeness. — Triumph over the Mangati. — Treaty with Sultan Sakwa. — Explanatory Letter. — Advance to Kwa Sundu. 270—311

Chapter IX. Advance Upon Unjoro And Deviation To Uganda, To Assist Tiie

CHRISTIAN PARTY. Visit from the Sultan and Chiefs. — Mr. Mackay's Despatch. — Muanga, Son of Mtesa. — His Rebellion against Karema, King of Uganda. — Mr. Stokes's Enterprise. — Expected British East African Expedition. — Proposal to Emin Pasha. — Political Missionary Interference. — Mr. Jackson's Proceedings. — Letter of Pere Lourdel. — Conversation with the Wasoga Men. — Kiswahili and Kisogo Languages. — The Sultan's Information respecting Unjoro. — Guides Required for Journey to Kwa Telessa. — Ali Somal's Dissuasions. — Hussein's Report. — Dr. Peters's Speech to the Somalis. — Result of the Conference, or Shauri. — Crossing the River Nsoia. — The Country of Kwa Tindi. — Messenger from Sultan Tindi. — Attack ou the Kraal by Robbers. — Particulars Concerning the Country. — March through the " Junker Range." — To Kwa Tunga and Kwa Telessa. — White Men in Wanjoro. — Conjectures Concerning Emin. — Dr. Peters's Letter. — The Wissmann Hills. — A Mysterious Visitor. — Marco and Talabanga. — Proposal to Visit Unjoro. — Stanley's Camp. — Stanley's Refusal to go to Uganda. — Letter to Monseigneur Livinhac. — Offer to Muanga.— Life in Usoga. — Particulars. — The Napoleon Gulf. — The Banana. — The Wasoga. — The Sultans and their Power. — The Wachore and their Jovial Sultan. — His Visit. — Kamanyiro Kanta's Career. — Return Visit to Wachore. — Report from H. M. Stanley. — Up, to Uganda ! — Pleasant Journey towards Usoga. — Kamanyiro's One-eyed Men. — Murder of Bishop Hannington. — Welcome from Christian Waganda. — Passage Across the Nile. — Ripon Falls. — First Encampment in Uganda. — A Dangerous Enterprise . 312 — CONTENTS. PAGE

Chapter X. In Uganda

Fatal Accident to Rukua. — Letter from King Muanga. — Declaration of Kamanyiro Kanta. — March in Military State. — Dismissal of Kamanyiro. — Letter to Mr. Gordon the Missionary. — A Gloomy March Through a Desolate Region. — Message from King Muanga. Entry into Mengo, the Capital. — Audience of the King, — Muanga's Friendliness. — Pere Lourdel's Ideas. — Dr. Peters's Advice. — Visit of the Katikiro. — At the French Mission. — Thoroughness of the Catholic Mission Stations. — Mechanical Ingenuity. — King Muanga's Palace. — Private Interview with the King. — Important Treaty Proposed and Signed. — Trade of Uganda. — Extensive Traffic with Usukuma. — Objections of Gordon and Walker. — Freedom of Residence for White Men. — Muanga's Plain Declaration. — Explanatory Letter to Mons. Lourdel. — Letter to Herr Arendt. — Letter to the Englishmen in Kawirondo. — Monseigneur Livinhac. — The Slave Trade. — Prospects of the Supremacy of Christianity. — Monseigneur Livinhac's Opinion. — The Waganda, their Great Abilities. — Their* Customs. — Music, Architecture, etc. — Their Cruelty. — Advantages of Climate and Soil. — Origin of the Waganda. — The Beyma People. — Comparison of Languages. — Ancient Records. — The Mountains of the Moon. — Ancient Maps.

Royal Tombs at Mengo. — Arab Account of Ancient Egypt. — Gumr and El Gumi. — Cave Dwellings. — Thomson's Account of them. — Historic Traditions and Unproved Theories. — The Katikiro, and Difficulties in Uganda. — Mr. Jackson's Letter. — Dispute between Muanga and the Katikiro. — Muanga's Message to Europe. — Collecting the Forces. — Defiance to Karema. — Mr. Walker's Visit. — Gabriel's Letter*. — The Land of Bulingogwe. — Brilliant Expectations 368—438

Chapter XI. Round Victoria Nyanza To Usukuma

Mons. Lourdel in Bulingogwe. — Particulars of Mr. Stanley and Emin Pasha. — Sir William Mackinnon's Plan. — Arrival of Nugula. — Dilatory Boatmen. — Mons. Lourdel's Energetic Measure. — Its Fatal Consequences. — View on Lake Victoria. — The Sesse Islands. — Arrival at Mfoh. — Great Thunderstorm. — Letter from the Katikiro, and Reply. — Sesse Songs. — Starting Afresh for Sesse. — The French Mission. — Meeting with Herr von Tiedemann. — The CONTEXTS. XV PAGE French Station Civilised Life. — Mr. Mackay and Monseigneur Livinhac. — Sunday at the French Station — Arrival of the Boats. — Resumption of the Journey. — French Missionary Boats. — Interchange of News. — Flat Shores of Lake Victoria. — Village of Boats. — Dumo. — Sango. — The River Kagera. — Conference with the Chiefs in Tabaliro. — Warning to the Wasiba. — Their Reply. — Letter from Pere Lourdel. — Collection of Tribute. — Letter from Monseigneur Livinhac — Departure from Tabaliro. — Voyage Along the Coast to Busiba. — Island of Bukerebe. — The Sultan's Submission. — Easter Sunday. — Island of Bumbide. — Friendly Natives. — Towards Soswa — Volcanic Region of Lake Victoria. — Soswa Islands. — Arrival of Boats. — Encampment in Bande lundo and Kuru. — Catholic Mission of Nyagesi. — A Banquet. — News from Europe. — Condition of Massailand. — Prospects of Opening up Africa. — Means to be Adopted. — Principles of Chris tianity and Freedom. — Idea of a New Expedition. — Results Already Achieved. — A Prosperous Region. — Removal to Ukumbi. — Round through Usukuma. — Welcome by Monseigneur Hirth 439—482

Chapter XII. From Lake Victoria Towards Home

The Mission Station of Nyagesi. — Its Occupants. — Dry Season in Usukuma. — Good Qualities of the Wasukuma. — Flight of the Arabs. — Life of the Expedition in Ukumbi. — Luxuries of Civilisation. — Religious Services. — Musa Devoured by a Crocodile. — Lion Hunt. — " Walpurgis Night " Watch. — Illness of Dr. Peters and Herr von Tiedemann. — Departure from Ukumbi. — Probable Future Importance of the Wasukuma. — Encampment at Kabila. — The Difficult River. — Fording the Stream. — The Nera Country. — Tactics of the Wasekke. — The African Character. — Crossing the Wami. — Mr. Stokes's Business Activity. — Trade in Africa. — Caravan Routes. — Opening up a New Road. — Settlement of Busiba. — Keletesa's Cordiality. — March through Thicket and Scrub. — The River Sanguke. — Crossing the Wembaere. — Through the Wilderness. — People of Iramba. — Sultan Kilioma. — The Peaceable Iramba People. — Iramba Plateau. — An Unladylike Sultana. — Importance of Usure. — Illness, Rest, and Travelling. — District of Uweri-weri. — In Kabaragas. — District of Ugogo. — The Arab Mohammed Bin Omari. — Achievements of the Badutschi. — The Kiiima Tindi Ridge. — The Wagogo People. — Makenge and Mr. Stanley. — Lesson to the Wagogo. — Demand for Tribute. — War with the Wagogo. — Burning of Wagogo Villages. — Arrival CONTENTS.

PAGE of the Wanjamwesi. — Wagogo Cattle Seized. — Makenge's Sub mission. — Wanjamwesi Caravan. — Mohammed Bin Omari's Caravan. — Circuit Round the Lindi Mountains. — A Caravan under the German Flag. — Tidings of Emin Pasha. — Kwam Yagallo. — The Marenga Mkali Country. — To Mpuapua. — Meeting with Emin Pasha. — Consultations with Emin.- — Criticism of Stanley's Proceedings. — Emin's Position on the Upper Nile. — Discrepancy between Accounts. — Emin's Estimate of Stanley. — Character of Emin Pasha. — Parting from Emin. — Arrival at Usagara. — The Arabs of Mkondogna. — Stay at Loanga. — March to Bagamoyo. — News from Europe. — Crossing to Zanzibar. — To Italy and Germany. — A Few Words with Admiral Fremantle 483 — 560

Appendix

. Supplement I. — The German Emin Pasha Committee . . .561 Supplement IL— Relations with Admiral Fremantle and the British Blockade 566 Supplement III. — The Neœra Lawsuit 574 Supplement IV. — The Fate of the Second Column .... 578 Supplement V. — The Uganda Treaty LIST OF FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS. Portrait of Dr. Carl Peters ...... Frontispiece Attempt to Land at Merka ..... To face page 25 Transfer of the Neœra's Freight to the Dhows . . „ „ 40 Camp in Mansamarabu ...... „ „ 63 Reception of the Somali-Kawallala . . . . „ „ 71 View on the Tana ...... „ „ 101 On the March ....... „ „ 121 Flotilla of the Expedition on the Tana ... „ „ 133 Fight with the Gallas . . . . . . „ „ 141 The Hofmann Falls ...... „ „ 159 View on the Emperor William II. Mountains . ' . „ ,, 161 Negotiation with the Wandorobbo .... „ „ 168 In the Mumoni Mountains ..... „ „ 191 The Augusta Victoria Falls ..... „ „ 201 The Karl Alexander Falls . . . . . „ „ 205 The Kenia ....... „ „ 219 Elmoran Warriors advancing to the Attack ... „ „ 227 Attack on Elbejet ...... „ „ 236 Attack on the Massais at Gnare Gobit ... „ „ 238 Christmas Eve at Guaso Nyiro . . . . „ „ 246 The Teleki Rooks . . . . . . „ „ 252 By Lake Baringo ...... „ „ 267 Encounter with the Waelgejo ..... „ „ 289 In Camp before Kabaras ..... „ „ 296 Passage of the Nile ...... „ „ 366 Triumphal Entry into Uganda ..... „ „ 372 Reception by Muanga . . . . . . ■„ „ 379 On Lake Victoria ...... „ ,, 445 " How, Dr. Peters ? — You are not dead ?

" . . . „ „ 456 Camp in Usukuma ...... „ „ 477 In Usukuma ....... ,, „ 485 The Wagogo Attacked and Defeated .... „ „ 525 The Meeting with Emin Pasha ..... „ „ 536 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS IN THE TEXT. PACE The German Emin Pasha Committee ...... 9 Portraits of Rudolf von Bennigsen and Dr. George Irmer . . .11 Portrait of Lieutenant-Captain Rust . . . . .20 Portrait of Herr von Tiedemann . . . . . .21 Portrait of Oskar Borchert ....... 22 l> LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. PAGE Portrait of Fritz Bley ........ 25 The Neœi-a running out from Dar-es-Salam . . . . .34 " Is Kwaihu Peak in Sight ?

" . . . . . . .37 Landing in Shimbye . . . . . . . .43 Loading the Camels ........ 60 Instructing the Somalis ........ 76 Rukua, First Servant to Dr. Peters . . . . . .80 Hamiri's Illustration ........ 103 Crossing the Tana at Mbuji ....... 108 On the Tana ......... 118 Tana Landscape, near Oda-Boru-Ruva ...... 128 Von der Heydt House . . . . . . . .138 The Von der Heydt Islands ..... . 157 The " Devil's Field " 164 Wadsagga ........ 183, 184 Building the Bridge across the Tana ...... 199 Hunting the Rhinoceros ........ 204 Fording the Dika ........ 208 Hut of the Wakikuyu . . . . . . . .215 Annoyed by Bulls ........ 232 Peace Proposals from the Massais ...... 249 The Wakamasia demand Tribute ...... 281 Wakawirondo ........ 298, 299 Hussein, Leader* of the Somalis ...... 325 Shauri with the Somali Soldiers ...... 327 Mount Schrœder and Arendt Bay ...... 351 Dr. Peters Reads Stanley's Letter ...... 361 A Missionary at the Plough ....... 387 Monseigneur Livinhac ........ 403 Musical Instruments of the Waganda . . . . . .410 Household Utensils of the Waganda . . . . . .413 Monseigneur Livinhac blessing his Pupils ..... 453 Wasiba of the Island of Tabaliro . . . . . .461 Voyage Along the Coast of Busiba ...... 467 Usukuma Woman Preparing Corn ...... 481 Wasukuma ......... 485 Mission House in Ukumbi ..... . 487 The Chief Porter, Musa, Killed by a Crocodile .... 491 Animal Life in the Desert ....... 499 An Usukuma Dandy ........ 503 View of the Plain of Ugogo near Mtive ..... 521 Destruction of the Wagogo Villages .... . 528 Usagara Landscape ........

Chapter I In Germany

" Thinkest thou, perchance. That I my life should hate, And to the desert flee, For that not every Blossom-dream hath ripened THE idea of carrying help to Emin Pasha, on his post at Wadelai, was already mooted in the spring of 1886, by Professor Schweinfurth, who was at that time still residing at Cairo. Schweinfurth in those days wrote I me a series of letters, in which he made communications concerning Emin's situation, and drew attention to the great importance of his position on the Upper Nile. These letters, which I gave to the public, did not fail to produce First ideas ° r » tr of an an impression in the colonial circles of Germany; and already at that time a few efforts, though feeble ones, were initiated with the view of succouring our fellow-country man. I, for my part, was so completely engrossed, in the 3-ear 1886, in business connected with the East African colonial acquisitions, and in founding the German East Africa Company, that, with the best will in the world, I was not in a position to give my attention to any less immediate tasks of the kind.

It was the year in which Jlihlke accomplished his Somali Expedition ; the year in which the U'niversal German Congress held its sittings in Berlin, in which the financing of the East African undertaking was begun, and the so-called London agreement created the sphere of English interests in Eastern Africa. Soon afterwards, Stanley took up the idea of carrying help to Emin Pasha ; and he quickly succeeded in financing the undertaking in England. Already at the beginning departure of 1887, he started from Europe for Eastern Africa, tot* Ainpfl. and in the spring of the same year he arrived at the Congo, with the band he had recruited in Zanzibar. I was in Zanzibar in that year, occupied in regulating the affairs of the coast, and in introducing a few fundamental measures of administration in our colony.