Rambles in Lion Land: three months' leave passed in Somaliland ... With original illustrations, photographs, and map

Preface

In the following pages I have aspired to neither excellence of literary style, nor to the recital of thrilling deeds by field and flood, but simply to an unvarnished account of my wanderings in a corner of the British Empire slightly known. CONTENTS

Chapter I Page

A June day at Aden — Preparations — Faith-cures — A snake-bite cured with "Pain-killer"! — A " vessel with a past" — The start — The ship steers herself — Zeila — Its appearance — French stations — Djibuti and Obok — Our cargo — Mocha coffee from Harar — Our captain's yarns — That unfortunate sea-gull ! — " Getting behind him ! " — Berbera . . i

Chapter II

The harbour — Its aspect — Our head-man — The Residency — Glorious baths — Final preparations — Hair-cutting — The Tuna's crew poisoned — How they were cured — "Two little monkey skins " — The Tuna sails and leaves us .14

Chapter III

Our caravan — Wages — Rations — Somali luxuries — That wonderful bath ! — An awkward currency — An Indian church collection — Gentlemanly camels — Somali methods of loading — " Herbs " — We start . . . .21

Chapter IV

The road— The jackal's cry — Those d— d kettles !— Our first . halt — The "kareef " — A sea of bush — Somali marches — CONTENTS PAGE The only tree— Thorns !— Our cook— His gold watch and £100 cheque — Dinner versus Prayers — Beef or bacon ! — Ghalib's attire is peculiar — Somali staunchness — Water-courses — The Curse of Eternal Drought — Camp at last . 28

Chapter V

The Somali tongue — The Gallas — A suture for Somaliland— The coast ports in 1567 — The Somali race — Fashions in hair — Somali wealth — Wood ashes their only indulgence — ■ The Somali a nomad — Inter-tribal quarrels — Somali sheep — Weapons — Spear-throwing — The Somali lady is a sorry spectacle — "Too cold to get up" — Ostrich and sheep farming — Ancient ruins . . . . . -45

Chapter VI

An errant camel — Drink and song — Disconcerting habit of Somali ponies — " Laferug " — Beautiful birds — Ghoul-like cries— The hyæna's laugh — The didhar . . .62

Chapter VII

The sentry and the clock — " Time-pieces but no clocks ! " — Somali water-courses — Mysterious streams — Poor old pig ! —The Queen of Sheba's Breasts— Ant-hills— Tortoises— Hargeisa ....... 68

Chapter VIII

The Sheikh of Hargeisa— The Haud— Its nature and aspect- Exploration or "shikar"?— A leopard— Our first thorn zariba—" Photography is all devil's work ! "—Somali axe is a trifle dangerous— Keeping the sentry awake— Oryx— An alarm— Donkeys as bait— The stolid hartebeest— The aoul gazelle-" Wife, wife ! "—Loading meat on the pony CONTENTS IX

Chapter IX Page

Supplementary water supply — Novel method of watering the ponies — Camel's milk — Nearly benighted — Somali idea of * - distance — The signal shots — A visit — Asker Gurrad — A trying ordeal — A stroll in the " bush " — Homing instinct . 91

Chapter X

Methods of lion-hunting— Lions in general — Lion stories — The lion's worst enemy — Vultures — Instinct or sight ? — A case in point — Honey-birds — Unmerited distrust . .102

Chapter XI

Tracks ! — The ubiquitous lion — The Cashmere bear fraud — — Native curiosity — We wash before admiring crowds — The Englishman and his "tub" — Two sides to every question ! — Lion ! — A lucky day — Ostriches — Guinea-fowl — Oryx — Songs of triumph — Arrival in camp — A most contented zariba . . . . . .116

Chapter XII

Snakes and other horrors — Ticks — On the war-path again — " Fol " — Face to face ! — Our local magician — Signs of elephants — We move . . . . .129

Chapter XIII

A storm — An elephant track — Burkhad — A picturesque scene — Mutual compliments — The acme of Somali equitation — A cruel bit — Saddles — Elephants again — Wrong tactics — A chase — A spill . . . . . • 13S

Chapter XIV

Fresh news of elephants — Elephant shooting— Twenty-five horsemen will chatter — A herd at last ! — A wild chase — Rifles or spears ? — Somali faith in fire-arms . . .146 CONTENTS X

Chapter XV Page

Good-bye to Burkhad — Evening— Southwards — Hahns — A surplus of milk — Our Abyssinian visitor — A complaint — "Ascertain as an Englishman's word" — Matters are righted — The Abyssinian's kiss of peace . . . 153

Chapter XVI

Abyssinians ! — A limited conversation — " The man who never came" — The Abyssinians depart — Another visit — A general wash— The Abyssinian camp — Salt and red pepper — Abyssinian patrols — A serious question — Somalis and Abyssinians — Is the Hinterland closed? . . . 168

Chapter XVII

A charming camp — The rhinoceros — Its haunts — Method of hunting — Charging — " Ghari-ki-muasik " — A runaway locomotive — Luck — Terrible thorns — The evening occupation — Rhinoceros from a culinary point of view — A sleeping leopard— Gum-pickers — Gum eating — Koodoo — Our larder up a tree . . . . . . .179 CHAPTER -XVIII A large herd of oryx — Rivers without water — A rhino amuses himself — Guldah — Norfolk in Africa — After rhino— A bleached skull — An ancient animal — The gum-pickers' breakfast — "Like a bronze statue" — Bush-dogs — Woodland sprites. ...... 193

Chapter XIX

Farso — Curious and ancient wells — Drawing water — A sleeping land— More rock-hewn wells— Elephant v. rhino— Somali cooking— How a Somali eats— Fire from two sticks- Attempts at boot repairing — Sore feet — A tribute to Harar CONTENTS XI

Chapter XX Page

Dagah-Muddoo — The Abyssinian fort — Providential dispensation — Zebra tracks — Sakarah antelope — A baby lynx — Two little leopard cubs — A proud goat — A man-killing leopard — Up a tree — An automatic destroyer . . .216

Chapter XXI

Northwards — Sebatti Wein mountain — Lofty ant-hills and Egyptian obelisks — The kingdom of Punt — An ancient ruin — Church or mosque? — The vanished horse — Our camels lost — Milmil — A quarrelsome Midgan — Phocochœrus Æthiopicus worthy of its name ! — The Haud again . . 230

Chapter XXII

Graves — Watering ponies — A thirsty leopard — A dead goat — A long vigil — " Through the heart "... 244

Chapter XXIII

My pony sickens — Somali method of progress — Pony dies — Hargeisa — Another pony succumbs — The sea ! the sea ! — Berbera — A week of rest — The auction sale — The Tuna — Aden ....... ILLUSTRATIONS FROM ORIGINAL DRAWINGS AND PHOTOGRAPHS AN unexpected VISITOR Frontispiece BERBERA, SOMALILAND, EAST AFRICA . . . To face page 14 SOMALI WEAPONS : SPEARS, SHIELDS, ETC. . . „ 55 SOMALI WEAPONS : POISONED ARROWS, ETC. . „ 57 THE ANT-HILLS. OUR CARAVAN ON THE MARCH „ 73 THE HORA ABEDLEH WATER-HOLES ... „ 21 8 map At end of Book RAMBLES IN LION LAND

Chapter I

A June day at Aden — Preparations — Faith-cures — A snake-bite cured with "Pain-killer" ! — A "vessel with a past" — The start — The ship steers herself — Zeila — Its appearance — French stations — Djibuti and Obok— Our cargo — Mocha coffee from Harar — Our captain's yarns — That unfortunate sea-gull! — "Getting behind him ! " — Berbera. The bare rugged rocks, devoid of vegetation, and heated by months of cloudless sunshine, breathed forth, as it were, their concentrated heat upon man and beast. The white mosques and houses, encircled and shut in from the sea breezes by the towering crater walls, glared and shimmered in the noonday sun. The silence of the mid-day heat reigned supreme. Occasionally fierce eddies of furnace-heated air swept down from the heights around, and raised B -1 RAMBLES IN LION LAND spectral dust-spouts, which whirled and raced along the deserted roads, until they vanished as mysteriously as they had arisen.

On three sides of the ancient crater (upon the floor of which the town of Aden is built), the tepid waters of the Indian Ocean lapped lazily, or burst in tiny wavelets upon the stretches of yellow sand, which fill the almost inaccessible bays and inlets of this most curious place. On the remaining side, the low sandy isthmus, which connects Aden with the mainland, swept with a grand curve towards the north, until it merged, almost imperceptibly, into the dim mountain ranges of unknown Arabia. Such was the day when I and my companion (whom I shall call J ) left Aden for the African coast, to seek in Somaliland fresh fields for sport and adven ture, during our three months' leave. The weeks previous to our departure had been busy ones for us, in collecting, storing, and packing the provisions, rifles, ammunition, tents, and the hundred and one articles which we were to take with us.

There is a delicious fascination in arranging and organizing the details of an expedition, which causes the days prior to the start to be not the least pleasant of the whole outing. However, packing in a tempera- PREP AR A TIONS 3 ture of anything up to 1060 in the shade is not particularly enjoyable, and it was with feelings of satisfaction that our baggage was finally stacked, ready for a move. Our provisions and stores were packed in ten specially constructed wooden boxes, and these were so weighted that two formed a load for a camel, one slung on each side. Each box was numbered on the outside, and its contents were carefully catalogued, so that we could always lay our hands on anything that was wanted. Perishable goods, such as flour and sugar, were hermetically sealed in tins, which had been so made that three exactly fitted into one of the above mentioned boxes.

A few simple medicines were taken, and the means of washing and dressing wounds, in case of any mishap with a lion, were not forgotten. One thing was, however, overlooked, and this was a specific for colds and coughs, the two very last ills flesh is heir to that we expected to have to combat in Africa. As a matter of course, because we possessed no cure for these evils, they were a constantly occurring trouble; for, the first few days after landing, several of our Somali followers were incapacitated. However, we effected wonderful cures by means of a judicious diet of castor oil, Cockle's pills, and faith. As regards this last item, I cannot but call to mind one occasion when I was on leave in the wilds of Cashmere, where my fame as a " medicine man " brought the halt, sick, and blind to my tent door to be healed.

The only cause for belief in my powers was the idea that I had, with " Pain-killer," cured a child who had been bitten by a snake. It came about in this way. One afternoon a Cashmeri villager brought his little daughter to me in his arms. She had, he told me, been bitten by a snake, and he showed me the child's foot, whereon I saw the sinister fang-marks, indicated by two little beads of blood. The foot and leg had already begun to swell, and he asked me to save her. It was rather a tall order ! Had it been my own foot, I suppose I should have burnt, or cut out the flesh, but I scarcely felt justified in taking such drastic measures with a child, especially, as no one could assure me that it had been a poisonous snake that had effected the injury. The father continued to beg my aid, and so I gave him half a bottle of " Pain killer," which I directed him to rub upon the foot and limb.

For the child I had no hope ; but I thought the stuff might at any rate alleviate some of her pain. Before turning in that night, the father sent down to me, and craved a further supply, adding that his FAITH-CURES 5 little daughter was better, and that neither he, nor any of his fellow-villagers, had ever seen such wonderful medicine. The following morning the child was reported cured ! This happy result was put down to my curative powers, and from that day people came from all directions to be healed. It was in vain to tell them that I was no doctor. They refused to believe. "You cured the child from snake-bite, therefore you can cure us," was their argument. So I did my best by an impartial distribution of the remaining stock of pills to relieve them of their ills. The remarkable fact remains, that many of my unsought-for patients returned, and declared that they were completely cured.

But to return to Aden. Tuna was the name of the steamer which was destined to carry us, and our chattels, over the Gulf of Arabia to the African coast. She was a vessel "with a past," if Rumour, "that lying jade," may be believed for once. It appears that she had been a sunken wreck off the inhospitable coast, not far distant from Aden. An enterprising firm purchased the remains, had her raised, refitted her, and ran her with the greatest success between Aden and the Somali coast ports. A more rickety old craft never plied above water, and it was without a single feeling of surprise, that I saw the account of her final disappearance a few months ago. She was caught in a cyclonic storm, while crossing the Gulf, and went down with every living soul on board. Not one escaped, and nothing was discovered to mark her final resting-place, but her gaff, with the red ensign still attached, floating on the sea.

She was only of about eighty tons register, and, as may be imagined, her accommodation was extremely limited. There was one tiny cabin, which was permanently occupied by gigantic cockroaches, so that the passengers and the two European ship's officers ate, slept, and lived on the little square of deck amid ships, where the wheel-house was situated. There was barely room to turn round, and on the afternoon of our embarkation it was anything but comfortable, sweltering under the awning, and waiting until the lighters alongside had discharged their cargo into the Tunas hold. Fortunately, we only had one fellow-passenger — a young Italian, who was returning to his business at Berbera. The captain and mate were English, and the remainder of the crew were Lascars from the eastern coast of the Bay of Bengal.

No engineer was THE ' TUNA ' STEERS HERSELF carried. As the vessel could never make more than five miles an hour, under the most favourable circumstances, one was perhaps considered unnecessary ! We weighed anchor at sundown, and threading our way between the ships in harbour, made for the open sea. Once past the lightship, which marks the entrance to Aden harbour, a considerable swell caused our little vessel to reply with convulsive jerks. How ever, it was cool, or, rather, comparatively so, which is one of the first things a dweller in Aden appreciates. As we crept past the uncanny-looking pinnacles of Little Aden, arrangements were made for turning in. With some difficulty three small canvas beds were rigged up, and we were soon fast asleep. About midnight our Italian friend woke me. " I say," he remarked, for he spoke English fluently, " this ship is steering herself."

And so she was ! The skipper lay snoring on deck. The mate was likewise dead asleep in a deck chair, and we could see by the hanging oil lamp, which swung slowly back wards and forwards, the native helmsman quietly dozing, his head on his arms. Yes, the ship was indeed steering herself! The engines were in motion, but, towards which point of the compass we were being carried, no one could say. We woke the helmsman and the mate, and went to sleep again. The following mornine we were still undrowned, and the vessel above water ! We forged ahead slowly all that day until about four in the afternoon, when the town of Zeila hove in sight. Then the wind sank, and the heat became smothering on the crowded square of deck, while the sea, disturbed only by the creeping prow of the Tuna, rolled on either side in great oily ripples.

Owing to the shallows and sunken sand-banks, even our little vessel could not approach nearer the town than a mile and a half, and at this distance from the shore we dropped anchor. The appearance of Zeila from the sea is truly appalling. A few white houses on a low strip of yellow sand, and that is all. It was indeed difficult to realize that in former times on this spot, or, at any rate, in its immediate vicinity, was situated one of the greatest emporiums of commerce in these seas. Its origin is lost in the fogs of Phœnician fable,1 but there is little doubt that a populous city existed here in ancient times, to which gathered " an 1 Burton. FRANCE ON THE QUI VIVE 9 innumerable number of merchants." During the sixteenth century we learn that " there is a marvellous abundance of gold and iron, and an innumerable number of black slaves, sold for small prices."1 In 1 516 the Portuguese burnt the place, and it would appear that this episode completed its gradual mergence into obscurity.

Even at the present time there is a fair amount of trade passing through the place,2 the merchandise consisting chiefly of coffee from the Highlands of Abyssinia, with ivory, feathers, gum, and hides from the interior. About thirteen miles to the north is the French station of Djibuti and Obok, to which port the French naturally use every endeavour to deflect the inland trade, which now reaches the outside world through the British coast ports of Zeila, Bulhar, and Berbera. The completion of the long-threatened French railway from Djibuti to Harar would undoubtedly be a considerable blow to our trade in these parts. As we swung at anchor a pleasant breeze sprang up, tempering the grilling heat, and we breathed again. From the town a whole flotilla of native craft put 1 Burton, quoting Bartema. 2 ,£250,000 per annum.

RAMBLES JN LION riN/< 1O out. and it was one of the few pleasing sights we saw at Zeila, as the little vessels, with Swelling sails, and masts leaning from the breeze, came scudding down towards us They soon encircled us, and into them the Tuna began to disgorge some oi her carg<>. which on the outward journey from Aden consisted of rice and cloth. With respect to this latter commodity the natives, although their clothing consists only of a single piece of white sheeting, are fastidious as to the texture, and will have none but of American manufacture. They will not look at English stuff, which they declare is less durable, and more expensive. Thus an ever increasing market for cotton goods seems closed. All the sheeting we took for presents and payments (for it is practically the currency in N.E. Africa) was American.

English manufacturers, please note ! By night-fall all the cargo had not been discharged, so it became necessary to stop until the morrow. All tli<- following day the ship was surrounded by native boats either receiving or else shipping cargo. This chieily consisted of small sacks of coffee berries, which are grown to a large extent at Hnrar. 1 This is, in reality, the Mocha coffee of commerce, most of it 1 j£too,ooo worth of coffee pa5ses through Zcila annu.iiu THE SKIPPER'S SUSPICIONS 11 being shipped through agents at Aden to Italy and France. During the second day of detention the shore and town looked even more forbidding than on the previous afternoon, for there was a strong wind which blew up the desert sands, and these dust storms at times completely blotted out the land from view.

As the sun set the Tuna started, and slowly creeping out from among the dangerous sand-spits which form the haven, soon reached the open sea, and headed towards the port of Berbera. It was wonder fully calm, and a rising full moon showed us indistinctly the land as we ran down parallel to it. As we sat thus, our captain amused us by recounting his many strange experiences. According to him he had been all his life on board one of the great Transatlantic Liners, but in what capacity he did not state. This happened to be his second voyage in Southern Seas, and he knew nothing what ever about men with black skins, and consequently, he had the greatest distrust of his native crew. From what he told us it would appear that he was fully convinced that they would on the first favourable opportunity " maroon " him, run off with his ship, and turn pirates !

While lying at anchor off Zeila, he RAMBLES IN LION LAND 12 had much mystified us by producing an exceedingly rusty single-barrelled gun. This he had loaded, and had then ostentatiously proceeded up to the forecastle, where the crew were collected. He then rested the gun on the ship's railing, and, having taken careful aim at an unfortunate sea-gull, which happened to be quietly dozing on the water, had blown it to bits. The worthy skipper now explained the reason of this slaughter. It appeared that it was intended as a demonstration to his crew, what they, in their turn, might expect, if, as he expressed it, they ever "got behind him." He also had carefully prepared the wheel-house for defence, and showed us how he could command the fore-part of the ship while inside. His totally uncalled-for suspicions caused much amusement, and many a time have we enjoyed a good laugh at his weird ideas.

During the night the sea got up, and when we awoke the following morning we were plunging about grandly, the spray flying over us as we sat at break fast, and drenching everything. It was an invigorating change after the sweltering days at Zeila. The land on this morning lay full in sight, a wild parched series of mountains inland, while a desert covered ARRIVE AT BERBERA 13 with thorn bushes ran sloping up to their bases from the sea. Towards noon we sighted the lighthouse and white houses of Berbera, backed by tawny-coloured hills and desert. Here we were to disembark, and start on our journey.

Chapter II

The harbour — Its aspect — Our head-man — The Residency — Glorious baths — Final preparations — Hair-cutting — The Tuna's crew poisoned — How they were cured — " Two little monkey skins " — The Tuna sails, and leaves us. Berbera harbour is not without a certain picturesque ness of its own. The water is intensely blue, and its calm is only broken by innumerable shoals of fish that leap to the surface, disturbed by the Tunas sluggish hull. A few Arab dhows are riding easily at their hempen cables, their raking masts and rough rigging silhouetted against the blue of the sea and sky. The haven itself is formed by a massive spit of sand which sweeps from the land, and then runs parallel to the coast for some distance. At the further or eastern end, the native town is situated, the flat topped houses reaching to the water's edge.

On the southern side, and about three-quarters of a mile from '4 Berbera, Somaliland, East Africa. THE MARITIME PLAIN the native quarter, stands the European, or official town of Berbera. Here the Residency, hospital, and jail are situated, and several other white houses, with a couple of mosques, are dotted pleasantly about on the rising ground. There is an attempt at vegetation too on this side of the harbour, in the form of a few green palm-trees, which grow in clusters round the white buildings of the place, and to a certain extent tend to break the arid and parched aspect of the landscape. Over all the remorseless sun glares, and the hot breath of the land meets us as we steam in. Behind the white houses stretches open desert, overgrown with stunted thorn - bush. This desert, commonly known as the Maritime Plain, slopes up wards from the sea, until it meets the base of a range of not unimposing barren mountains.

A solitary light house stands about two miles to the westward of the town, on the seashore. When the coast ports were taken over from the Egyptian Government in 1884, this lighthouse, I believe, was the cause of some arbitra tion, which has never been satisfactorily concluded, and, consequently, the beacon light never gleams over the sea, although some arrangement for a "flare" has been made near the spot to aid navigation. As I have RAMBLES IN LION LAND already related, our ship made fast to the pier, and a few minutes later we stepped ashore. A crowd of Somalis were loafing about. Some of the youngsters were amusing themselves by fishing, while others were diving, with much laughter, in the deep clear waters. The arrival of the Tuna from the " hub of the universe " in this quiet corner of the world, caused a pleasurable diversion to the inquisitive Somali, and the pier-head was soon crowded.

Yet there was no hustling, nor were we besieged by irritating requests for employment or " backsheesh," as would have been the case at any other more civilized port. Our head-man soon appeared, accompanied by some of our camel men, and, with the help of these, all our baggage, including provision boxes, water-casks, and other paraphernalia, was stacked upon the pier. This head-man, who went by the name of Abdi, we had sent over from Aden some three weeks before our arrival, with orders to procure camels, horses, followers, rations, etc. He had fulfilled his task in an excellent manner, consequently, when we arrived, we found everything ready for an early start, and thus escaped from the heat of the Maritime Plain into the plateaux of the interior. THE RESIDENCY In our case everything worked without a hitch.

Many expeditions, notably those starting from Eng land, or the Continent, are not generally so fortunate, as many sportsmen and explorers arrive in Berbera with no arrangements made at all. The result is, of course, a weary and vexatious wait in the stifling heat, and, generally, a considerably increased expenditure in purchasing camels and provisions. Our first goal after disembarkation was the Resid ency, which we recognized at once, by seeing the Union Jack peeping out of a cluster of green palm trees which shaded the garden. Here we received a hearty welcome from Captain and Mrs. Cox, and a comfortable lunch, which was distinctly welcome, after our three days of roughing it on board the Tuna. By the time we returned to the pier, we found that most of our baggage had been removed to the spot near the Residency where we had been advised to pitch our tents.

Thither we proceeded, and occupied ourselves readjusting our boxes, unpacking saddlery, and getting ready the Snider rifles and ammunition for issue to our men. Before we had nearly completed our work, darkness came on, and availing ourselves of a kind invitation we strolled over to dine at the Residency. This building, c RAMBLES IN LION LAND like most of the other houses in Berbera, was built during the Egyptian occupation prior to 1884. The rooms are built to form three sides of a square, with all the doors and windows facing inwards, thus forming a central courtyard pleasantly arranged as a garden, and well shaded with trees, while, to add to the charm, a fountain in the centre throws up a cooling jet of clear water. The fourth side is open to the sea, and from the Residency courtyard a pleasing view of the harbour and native town is obtainable, the whole framed with waving palm branches, and other green growth.

The most remarkable thing about the houses in Berbera is the enormous baths attached to each bed room. They are built of brick and cement, and are, if anything, too large. There is an unlimited supply of naturally heated water, which is conveyed from a spring rising in the hills some five miles south of the town.1 The water possesses a slightly saline taste, but is otherwise extremely palatable and abundant. How often during the succeeding months did we think of the pure water of Berbera. Frequently the 1 Until quite recently there were visible portions of a masonry aqueduct, which had been built when the prosperity of Berbera was at its height. The Phœnicians, Persians, and Ottomans have variously been given credit for this work. HAIR-CUTTING 19 only liquid we could procure was not to be told in colour from cocoa, while the taste was revolting.

Many times during the trip, when I have watched my pony ravenously drinking the tumblerful of water in which I had already washed, did I picture the supreme satisfaction of leading the faithful animal down one day to the brimming troughs at Berbera, and allowing him to drink his fill. But it was not to be, for his bones lie bleaching in the bush a hundred and fifty miles from the sea and Berbera— of which more anon. The whole of the following day was spent in final preparations for departure. We fitted our ponies with their saddles and bridles, and took a preliminary spin on them. They, at any rate, did not appear particularly enthusiastic about the matter. We wrote our last letters, issued the Snider rifles and twenty rounds of ammunition to our men, and advanced them all a month's full pay.