Camp and Cantonment: a Journal of Life in India in 1857-1859, with some account of the way thither ... To which is added a short narrative of the pursuit of the Rebels in Central India, by Major Paget, etc

Front matter

JtWraiirtlire. THE TOWN AND FORT OF NURGOOND CAMP AND CANTONMENT: a Journal OP LIFE IN INDIA IN 1857-1859, WITH SOME ACCOUNT OF THE WAY THITHER. MRS. LEOPOLD PAGET. TO WHICH IS ADDED, A SHORT NARRATIVE OF THE PURSUIT OF THE REBELS IN CENTRAL INDIA, MAJOR PAGET, R.H.A. ftonDon : LONGMAN, GREEN, LONGMAN, ROBERTS, & GREEN. 1865. LONDON : GILBERT AND RIVINGTON, PRINTERS, ht. John's square. TO EMILY, VISCOUNTESS SYDNEY, ®|)is little Walxmxt IS, PERMISSION, AFFECTIONATELY INSCRIBED. CONTENTS. PAOE Introduction 1

Chapter I

Embarcation — Towing down Channel — Put into Portsmouth — Start again — Sea Sickness — Pass Madeira — A Shark caught — Gale of Wind — Cold and Wet 3

Chapter II

Speak a Batavian Ship — A Swim after an Albatross — The Tail of a Hurricane — Blue Shark and her Young — Convict Ship — Provisions run short — First Sight of Land — Native Fishing Boats — Luminous Waters — Taken in Tow 31

Chapter VII

A Wedding — Setting in of the Monsoon — Rumoured Outbreak — Field Force organized — Sudden March — Murder of Mr. Manson — Demonstration — Ladies ordered into the Fort — Mail robbed — Taking of Nurgoond — Return of Column to Dharwar 170

Chapter VIII

Intermittent Fever — Lizzie's Adventures — Trial and Execution of the Rajah — Theatricals and Balls — The Mohurrun — Picnic — Visit to the Dessayes of Hiblee — Native Ladies 203

Chapter IX

Rumour of Change — Expedition to Nurgoond — The Comet — Start on an Excursion to the Western Jungles — Visit from the Nawab of Savanoor — Continued Rain — Difficulties — Temple at Hangul — Station of Sircee — Break down CONTENTS. VII

Chapter X. Pagb

Falls of Gairsapa — Cross the River — Return Journey in Palkees — The Nawab's Elephant — Return to Dharwar — Start again — Attack of Dysentery — Rest at Belgaum — Nepanee — The Rajah's Palace . . . 259

Chapter XI

Crossing a River — Native House — Kolapore — The Mutiny — The Maharajah's Equipage — The Palace — Dancing Elephant — Uninteresting Journey — Sattara — Ranee's Palace and Gardens — Fort — Holy Fish — Arrive at Poona 281

Chapter XII

Journey to Aimednugger — Tomb of the Sisters — Preparations for Active Service — Departure of Captain Paget — Solitary Life — Summoned to Mhow — Start again — Jungle Fever — The Bheels — Arrival at Malligaum — Christmas Eve ...... 304

Chapter XIII

Seized with Illness — Compelled to travel in a Palkee — Difficulties about Bearers — Solitary Journey — Passage of the Taptee — Unhealthy Jungles — Outposts — Kind Reception — Cross the Nerbudda — Arrive at Mhow 330

Chapter XIV

Life in Mhow — Hot Season — Return of Central India Field Force — Difficulties about Servants — Fever — Prepare to return to England — Tiger Shooting — Leave Mhow — English Carriage breaks down— Miseries of the Journey — Beautiful Pass — Railway to Bombay CONTENTS.

Chapter XV. Page

Embark on board the " Bombay" — The Monsoon sets in — Crowded Ship — Suffocating Atmosphere — Passengers — Sick People — Bad Food — Aden — Hospitable Friends — Ride to the Fort — The " Alma " Passengers — Crowded Decks — Red Sea — Wreck of the " Alma " — Miserable Voyage ....... 378

Chapter XVI

Land at Suez — The Desert Railway — Lost Luggage — Cairo — Native Dress — Egyptian Bath — Donkey Riding — Jumma Sheriff Mosque — Bazaars — Insects — Expedition to the Pyramids — The Virgin's Cave — Tombs of the Caliphs — Alexandria — Embark on board the " Indus " — Malta — Capuchin Monastery — Gibraltar — Old England again 399

Appendix

. " How I Helped in the Pursuit of Tantia Topee "

Introduction

. The summer of 1857 broke upon the world in England with little promise of the momen tous events to be enacted during its course. The commercial and domestic intelligence from the East brought by each successive mail sounded no warning note, so that the dreadful tragedy of Cawnpore and the news of the Indian mutiny carried sudden and unexpected desolation to many an English home. The authoress of the following Journal was, happily, unconnected by any ties of family or friendship with our Eastern Empire, and to many such, the horrible story scarcely seemed at first to convey the idea of the wide-spread disaffection that really existed among the native regiments. The first notion at home seemed to be, that a much-to be-lamented mutiny had occurred among a few regiments of native troops, which our English soldiers in the country would soon put down and chastise. Gradually more wide-spread alarm pervaded the pubhc mind. It was whis pered that Government were more frightened B

INTRODUCTION.

. than they cared to show; and while cavalry and infantry regiments were warned to be in readiness to proceed to the East, the House of Commons was busy discussing the comparative merits of steam or saihng transports. The weU-known efficiency of the Indian Artillery was such, that it did not at first occur to the officers of the Koyal Artillery at home that their services would be put in requisition ; but, as worse accounts arrived with each succeeding mail, it gradually dawned upon the authoress and her husband, that a voyage to India was a more probable^ontingency than a tour in Switzerland, which had been in contemplation for their autumn's amusement. At last, about the middle of July, the field battery R.A., under the com mand of Captain Leopold Paget, was, among many others, placed under orders for immediate embarcation.

He at once determined on taking his wife with him, if permitted to do so; but, though continually referred from the Horse Guards to the Admiralty, and the India House, this . could not be ascertained for some time ; and when at last permission was given, barely a fortnight remained in which to settle aU private affairs, to provide for the children who were to be left behind, and to select the necessary outfits. JOURNAL.

Chapter I. Embabcation Towing Down Channel Pitt Into Pobtsmotjth Staet Again Sea

SICKNESS — PASS MADEIBA — A SHABK CAUGHT — GALE OE WIND — COLD AND WET. Tuesday, August 4, 1857. After an early breakfast I drove down at 8 o'clock to the Arsenal Quay at Woolwich, accompanied by the kind friends with whom my husband and myself had been staying ever since the breaking up of our own establishment, and who wished to see the last of us. Here I found the men and officers drawn up, belonging to my husband's field battery, and to another com pany of the Royal Artillery which was to go in the same ship with us. Then were enacted the scenes of painful partings inseparable from the departure of troops on service, where the wives are of necessity left behind, and greatly was the sergeant's wife envied who was aUowed to accompany me as my maid. b2 In the midst of much confusion, we em barked in two small steamers, which were so crowded with soldiers and baggage that a corner of the paddle-box was the only place I could find to sit on, and we were conveyed down the river, receiving deafening cheers from the garrison at Purfleet, and the different ships we passed, for we were the first detachment to leave England for the relief of the sufferers in India.

At Gravesend we were transferred to the "Warrior Queen" sailing transport of 1200 tons, on board of which was also a troop of 3rd Dragoon Guards ; and here we were joined by friends anxious to say one more "good bye;" the confusion attendant on fitting up and arranging our cabin, and the excitement of the scene, fortunately preventing our dwelHng on the misery of separation from all we held dear in this world. From various causes, and principally because the crew were all so drunk that the captain dared not put to sea, we were delayed at Gravesend till 4 p.m., and were then towed down to be anchored for the night off the Nore. We found ourselves in possession of one of the stern cabins (the right to which had been kindly given up by the brevet-major commanding the troops, who was a single man), and when EMBAECATION. we had got it in order, it was reaUy comfortable, and contained a good cupboard in winch to stow away superfluous articles.

Our two swing cots, which at night were laced together, by day were separately triced up to the ceiling, because, when down, they filled the whole cabin, so that one had to go about on aU fours under them, which rendered undressing rather a difficult matter; and before we attempted to dress in the morning our soldier servant was summoned in to assist in tying up the cots, whilst I retreated into the cupboard till the operation had been performed. We thought our first dinner on board this evening a very bad one, but made allowances for the first day, considering that nothing and nobody were in their places, and the steward (evidently an in efficient one) remarkably tipsy. Wednesday, August 5. Towing commenced again early this morning, so that we found ourselves opposite Margate about breakfast time.

Talking of breakfast, nothing can be conceived more nasty than our meal so called ! Tea, both greasy and muddy, indifferent bread, and rancid butter, served on a filthy tablecloth, accompanied by knives, forks, and spoons of questionable cleanliness, and stuff caUed preserved milk, which our captain thought us fastidious for refusing, but which, in colour bright pink, with a most offensive smell, was, no doubt, a horrid compound of brains, &c. About luncheon time, which repast consisted of biscuit and jam, or cheese, we were off Deal, and the captain having announced his intention of going on shore to get various stores in which He found the ship deficient, we determined, with several others, to accompany him, for the pleasure of setting foot on Enghsh land again, and for the scarcely smaller pleasure of securing a clean, good dinner.

Deal is a quiet Httle town, remarkable for its cleaT.Hr.ess, with a population chiefly of pilots and fishermen, who reap a harvest by the frequent wrecks on the Goodwin Sands. We sauntered about, made a few purchases, had an excellent dinner at the Royal Hotel, after which we returned to our ship, which was again anchored for the night. One of the sailor's beds was discovered to be on fire to-day, occasioned probably by a drunken man smoking. It was fortunately found out in time to throw it into the sea, before the flames had spread further than the bedding; but our commanding officer, finding BECALMED. 7 extreme carelessness and neglect prevail among the officers of the ship, made stringent re gulations for mihtary police, which I trust may, under Providence, be the means of our safety. Thursday, August 6.

We continued being towed past Folkestone, and steadily down Channel, till this afternoon, when the tug cast us loose off Beachy Head, where apparently we are Hkely to remain, as, however great the saihng powers of the "Warrior Queen " may be with a favouring breeze, they are whoUy unequal to progressing much with one dead against her. There are two other ladies on board, both more or less suffering from sea sick ness, and I felt miserably cold and wretched, though determined not to give in. I do not beheve I should be at all ill if it were not for the horrid smells and the bad food. No one whose ideas of the comforts of a long voyage are founded upon the accommodation of a fine pas senger ship, can know the horrors ofa transport, and this one was despatched with such iU-judged haste that she was very badly found in every respect.

There are no cuddy servants except the one bad steward ; and from his cupboard, called a pantry, at the bottom of the companion, -I emanates an odour of grease and oil that pervades the whole ship. Then the bilge water ! I despair of conveying an idea of the horrors of that smeU, which penetrates everywhere, even into our clean cabin : I did not think it was possible to suffer such intense annoyance from such a cause, and I feel inclined to envy one of our friends, who is deficient in the olfactory sense. We had thunder and Hghtning and violent rain last night, and some showers to-day, which made us look out warm clothing. The soldiers have exchanged their uniforms for white jackets and red caps, a remarkably picturesque, but cold dress, considering the recent change in the weather. They all sleep in hammocks on the lower deck, which is open from one end to the other, and on fine days the hammocks are brought up and piled on deck.

The poor women have no accommodation of any kind as yet, but the captain promises to put them up something. Fortunately there are only two — my sergeant's wife, and a black Ayah, engaged for the voyage by one of the other ladies. They have hitherto slept on chairs, or tables, or anywhere in a corner, and only get a chance mouthful after our meals, which is a great shame, as we pay highly SHORT OF PROVISIONS. for their passage. We are well off in one re spect — that of having two saloons or cuddies, which in wet weather will be a great advantage to so large a party, as eighteen could scarcely find room at one table. Sunday, August 9. The last two days I have been too ill to do any thing but lie on my back, and the weather has been most wretched — continued storms of wind and rain, and the former dead against us, so that we beat backwards and forwards between England and France, scarcely making any real progress at all.

Most of us were very ill, and no comforts procurable ; all there was to eat being very indifferent, salt junk and fowls that had died of sea sickness. About noon to-day we neared the Isle of Wight, and the officer commanding decided on ordering the ship into Portsmouth, that her total deficiency in proper supplies might be reported to the authorities. We had started with only six sheep, which were, of course, nearly consumed, and the ship's boilers were not large enough to cook the soldiers' dinners. The whole day was most unhke a Sunday. My husband read service on deck, where the soldiers were assembled ; but his voice was almost lost amidst the tumult of wind and water. We anchored in the evening off St. Helen's, and ourselves and others went on shore. We were most hospitably received by our kind friends at Admiralty House, who were not a Httle surprised at our unexpected arrival at ten o'clock at night.

The comforts of a steady bed and a warm bath were fully appre ciated, though it was difficult at first to beheve the room was not in motion. Monday, August 10. One must have been a week at sea in a dirty transport, fully to enjoy the delights of a clean tablecloth, and all the appliances of a comfortable breakfast table, in a room looking on a green garden containing fine old trees. After breakfast we sallied out to lay in private stores for the voyage, and paid visits to several friends; but as the length of our stay was un certain, we did not venture to accompany our kind entertainers in their yacht to see the French Emperor and Empress pass through the fleet, on their return to Havre, from visiting our Queen at Osborne. In the evening we learned to our delight that we might spend another night on shore.

A SECOND START. Tuesday, August 11. Hearing we were stiU at Hberty to remain on shore, we made an early expedition to Ryde, to see some relations who were staying there, and on our return to the Admiralty House received the unwelcome intelHgence that we must join the rest of our fellow passengers at the inn and proceed on board our ship. A hard shower came on, and we had a most comfortless sail to the "Warrior Queen," which we found as dirty and unsweet as ever, though the improve ment in our prospects held out by a new steward, with two cuddy servants under him, and the promise of two clean tablecloths a-week, restored us to tolerable good humour. I was very busy re-arranging our cabin, and getting out every thing Hkely to be wanted for a long voyage. The ship swarms with cockroaches of all sizes, which I believe contribute towards the offensive odours on board.

We go to bed soon after eight, as most of the evenings have been wet and cold, and the saloon is far too unsweet for one to wish to sit there. The soldiers' hospital is immediately underneath, and is ventilated by means of a trap in the floor, so that all the bad air passes through the saloon, and one of the cabins immediately adjoining the trap is almost intolerable. Our nights are not. so very long after aH, for sleep after four is out of the question, as then begins the mysterious operation of holy-stoning, and pumping over head, and when that is over, it is time to begin the before-mentioned arrange ment of our cots, previous to dressing for breakfast at half-past eight. Wednesday, August 12. We lay at anchor all last night in a fog, and remained all day in a dead calm, opposite the Culver Cliffs, drifting out with the morning tide, and back again in the afternoon.

The day was warm and lovely, but it was tantalizing to be detained thus within sight of land. I went for ward to-day to inspect our new live stock. They consist of a goat and kids, plenty of pigs and sheep, some less bilious-looking fowls than those we started with, a black retriever, with four fat pups, a bull-dog, and sundry soldiers' curs. Thursday, August 13. Had the satisfaction this morning of hearing we had made good way during the night. There was a thick fog early in the evening, during the SEA SICKNESS. continuance of which we lay to, and rang a bell every quarter of an hour, to warn any approach ing steamers of our vicinity; it cleared off at midnight, and a favourable breeze springing up, carried us down to Portland by daylight; and, if it continues, we expect to be clear of the Channel to-night, and the pilot will take our last English letters on shore.

Monday, August 17. There has been little to record for four days. The breeze freshened considerably on the even ing of the 13th, which sent us down Channel at a great rate, at the same time reducing most of the passengers to a pitiable state. We ran 250 miles in twenty-four hours, which took us well into the Atlantic swell, and then the pitching and tossing were terrible. Our cots did not answer — they swung unevenly, owing to the difference in our respective weights ; and, be sides the feeling of suffocation consequent on being so near the ceihng, we bumped our heads dreadfully in getting in and out. On Saturday I was too ill to leave my cabin, and we thought at night we should feel the motion less if we put the cots on the floor ; and such a night I hope never again to pass ! Every tiling that could move had long since left its proper place ; every corner of the cabin was strewed with debris, and we were obliged to hold tight to our mat trasses to prevent rolling against the boxes, one of which threatened to faU on and crush our legs.

Sunday morning broke with a Hghter wind, and as soon as I was able to crawl on deck, the fresh air revived me wonderfully. L read prayers to the men on the poop, who were arranged in four rows, the three front rows sitting, and the back one standing — whilst the officers were grouped round the companion, the top of which, covered with a Union Jack, formed a kind of reading-desk. To-day the climate is sensibly warmer, but the wind is Hghter, and we do not get on so fast. We spoke a large ship, a trader from Liverpool to Valparaiso, which, in the monotony of a sea life, was quite exciting. The poor woman who was to act as my maid has, of course, been more ill than I have been, and no wonder, in the suffocation of the wretched box partitioned off the men's deck for her and her husband. I have never seen her since it began to blow, having been nursed wholly by my husband and our old soldier servant, who, fortunately, were neither of them ill.

WHIST UNDER DIFFICULTIES. Tuesday, August 18. To-day we spoke one of Green's large ships, bound like ourselves to the East with troops. No doubt their comforts far exceed ours, as his vessels are considered very perfect in venti lation and accommodation. A sohtary duck passed us, sailing alone on the wide ocean, and looking so lonely, though, no doubt, his mate was near, though unseen by us. The ship rolled fearfully to-day — walking was impossible, and sitting very insecure, but I am thankful at having got over my sea sickness, though my head stfll suffers, feehng sore all over, and burn ing at the top. We had a game of whist this evening, under difficulties. It rained a little, and each player held an umbrella, and the wind blew all stray cards in various directions, whilst frequently a lurch, stronger than usual, sent at least one person rolling on the deck !

The soldiers sing in chorus in calm evenings, which sounds very pretty. It gets dark very soon now, and I suppose in the tropics we shaU all go to bed at six, for it seems generally agreed that sitting below is a thing out of the question ; unfortunately sleep is often quite impossible, for, in addition to the rolling and pitching of the ship, a crowded London thoroughfare is quiet compared to the creaking, straining, and shouting of the sailors, and other noises on ship-board at night. There are two things almost unbearable to those suffering from sea sickness — first, the perpetual motion, and it is nearly maddening when reason tells you that your agonizing prayer of " stop the ship, only for ten minutes," cannot be comphed with; secondly, and scarcely more endurable, is the unceasing roar of the waves, a dreadful rushing sound in the ears, that never, never ceases !

Thursday, August 20. The last two days have been busily employed in organizing a school for the soldiers, but having very few books, and no slates, it is difficult to know what to teach. My occupation this morning was writing out a great number of arithmetical tables, and I am very glad when the school hour arrives ; any regular occupation is such a blessing in our monotonous life. Friday, August 21. On coming on deck this morning, the island of Madeira was very plainly visible, and by twelve o'clock we were abreast of it, at the distance of about six miles. On this side it con- ASPECT OF MADEIRA. 17 sists of a majestic mountain, rising almost perpendicularly out of the sea, about the centre of which is a wide fissure, or ravine, apparently extending far into the interior; and there are fine detached rocks projecting into the sea.

At the top of the chffs we distinctly saw green fields, dotted with houses and churches, and a convent on the very summit of one of the hills. Every available part of the rock is formed into terraces for the vines ; and down the face of the cliffs, facing the sea, were several high waterfalls, looking like silver threads. It is needless saying how we longed to land on this lovely island, and even to have taken on board a cargo of fresh fruit and vegetables would in some degree have mitigated our regret; but not a boat appeared, and the lazy Portuguese little knew what a harvest they were losing. Saturday, August 22. To-day we passed the Canary Islands. The Peak of Teneriffe was hidden by the nearer mountain of Palma, whose point shone out bright high up in the sky, lighted by the rays of the afternoon sun, whilst the clouds floated across the lower part, but we were too distant to distinguish small objects.

The colour of the sea is now glorious. An intense bleu Eugenie gives to ladies the best idea of it that I can express, and the climate is heavenly : not in the least cold, and yet by no means hot, with a balmy breeze wafting us along at a good speed. One only regrets the absence of twilight, and that the moment the sun dips into the sea it begins to get dark, so that in ten minutes all books or work are obliged to be laid aside : then generally commences a grand game of cock fighting, or similar amusements, among the young gentlemen ; followed by singing, either amongst ourselves or the soldiers, sometimes varied by the latter dancing hornpipes or jigs, to the music of a flute and bones. I saw to day, for the first time, some flying-fish — pretty little white, glittering things — very decidedly flying, not leaping, as some books of natural history would lead one to imagine.

The luminous appearance on the sea, which I also witnessed for the first time this evening, was very different from my imaginings, which had pourtrayed a sheet of white fire, whereas this appeared like innumerable diamond baUs rolling through the water in the wake of the ship. UNCOMFORTABLE MEALS. Monday, August 24. Yesterday being the first Sunday when we were all quite well, and a most lovely day, was enjoyed accordingly, though the want of diver sity of employment makes it always a long day on board ship. At night the wind died away, and we lay rolling in an Atlantic swell, without hope of sleep. It is astonishing, how ever giddy and uncomfortable we feel all the morning, how we revive after dinner ; in fact, it is our only good meal, and one had need of a sea appetite to consider it in that light.

The tables in the eating saloon are covered with bars, supposed to keep the plates and dishes in their places, but which signally fail in their object, and the soup and meat go larking about in company with the decanters and glasses, and dinner rarely passes without a smash. We ladies have quite given up having our meals below. I generally have a bason of coarse oat meal gruel directly I come on deck in the morn ing, which serves me for breakfast ; the bread and biscuit are both uneatable, which is a great privation. At twelve, we have either a smaU pudding, made by one of our servants, or a cup of arrowroot; and our dinner, at four, is brought to us on deck, where we eat with our plates on c our knees. The mutton is generally good, but every thing else is very nasty, unless I except an occasional bottle of preserved fruit.

It is quite shocking how greedy this indifferent food makes us feel, and how we look forward to and talk of the good things we expect in India; and, before long, I fear we shaU be worse off, and put on short allowance. Wednesday, August 26. Although we have entered the Tropics the weather continues cool on deck, though below, when we have but little wind, the closeness is suffocating. A poor Httle Scotch terrier, of amiable manners, belonging to one of the offi cers, who was a favourite with us all, has dis appeared mysteriously; it is supposed that when she was looking over the side, a violent roll of the ship threw her into the sea, when it is very sad to think of her fate, swimming till strength failed her, and then poor little thing ! Lately we have taken to walking a mile every evening at dusk, which, as near as we can reckon, is 110 turns on the poop.

The moonlight is delicious ; and though the moon is only five days old, the light is as great as that of a full moon at home.. BAD WATER. 21 Sunday, August 30. We have made good progress, and passing outside the Cape de Verde Islands, are now steering s.e. towards the coast of Africa. We all felt ill again on Friday, owing more, I think, to the weather than the motion. There is plenty of wind, but it is hot, sticky, and unrefreshing, and is a Sirocco from the African Deserts. My husband and I have had our cots taken down, and a wide bed-place made across the stern windows in our cabin, which we find far more comfortable. Fresh meat will not keep in this weather, and latterly we have been reduced to fat pork, which at home, if one felt qualmish and giddy, though ravenously hungry (an anomaly only experienced on a long voyage), would certainly be the last dinner one should choose, particularly when served on very greasy plates, accompanied by knives, forks, &c, in similar condition.

Our aUo wance of water is only a pint each, of the consistence of thick soup and with a horrible smell ; the same is used for cooking, and the poor soldiers have to drink it. We have a small filter in our cabin, where we collect two or three days' allowance for the purpose of cleaning our teeth. We possess also an India-rubber bath, which we are able to use daily — except in very rough weather — fiUed with sea water. In this muggy, un wholesome weather, we have not been weU enough to keep school; and the poor soldiers seem to feel its depressing influence too, for they He about the decks asleep, Hke so many hounds in a kennel, over and across one another in every variety of attitude, with no relief to the tedium of the long day. Tuesday, September 1. An agreeable change in the weather, but for two days we have been nearly becalmed.