Life on the Ocean; or, Thirty-five years at sea. Being the personal adventures of the author

Front matter

894. WHALE Fishery. Paddack (W. C.)- Life on the Ocean: or 35 years at sea. Portrait. 12mo, cloth, uncut. Cambridge: Riverside Press, 1893 Only 500 copies privately printed. Personal experiences of the author in the whale fishery; the best recent book on the subject. BEASLEY COLLECTION. LIFE ON THE OCEAN. CAPTAIN W. C, PADDACK LIFE ON THE OCEAN <9t Cfjirtpjjfitoc fcartf at &ca BEING THE PERSONAL ADVENTURES OF THE AUTHOR WILLIAM C. PADDACK FOR TWENTY-EIGHT YEARS CAPTAIN IN THE MERCHANT SERVICE OF THE UNITED STATES CAMBRIDGE at tije Utoersto? press Copyright, 1893, By WILLIAM C. PADDACK. The Riverside Press, Cambridge, Mass., U. S. A. Electrotypes aud Printed by H. O. Houghton & Company.

Preface

. All the incidents of this book are facts from my own personal exj.erience during thirty-five years passed upon the ocean. Of that time I spent four years on board of a whaleship, and thirty-one years on board of merchant vessels. I do not pretend to be a literary character ; but I do claim to know how to rig and sail a ship, and to be familiar with whatever is connected with a nautical life. W. C. P. CONTENTS.

Chapter I

Introductory : Early Years — School-days — Inclination for the Sea — Captain Hussey's Advice — Signing the Ship's Articles — My Aunt's Last Words — Good-by 1

Chapter II

On Board the Ship Planter : Ship's Company — Captain's Speech — Watches — Officers' Duties — Discipline — Ship Duty — Seasickness — Practicing the Crew — Flores — Corvo — Azores described — Our First Whale — Fayal — Island Trade 5

Chapter III

Rounding the Cape : Sunday at Sea — Catamarans — Off the Coast of Brazil — The Pampero — Falkland Islands ■*— Staten Island — Man Overboard — Albatrosses — Cape Horn — In the Pacific Ocean — Talcahuana — Sailor's " Liberty "

Chapter IV

In the South Pacific : Talcahuana — Making Sail — Once more at Sea — Bound for Juan Fernandez CONTENTS. — Goat Island — Adventures with Sharks — Going Ashore at Goat Island — Search for a Lost Dog — Island of Mas-a-Fuera — A Good Catch — Juan Fernandez — Tombez, Peru — Abington Island — Seal-hunting — Albemarle Island — Galapagos Islands — Terrapin ... 37

Chapter V

Cruising among the Kingsmill Group : Sydenham Island — A Big Whale — Pitt's Island — Back to Sydenham — Village on Woodle's Island — Kingsmill or Gilbert Islands — Ocean Island — Two Whales — At Pleasant Island — Trading with a Colored Man from New Bedford — The Bark Belle — With Captain Hussey on Morgan Island — Our House — Climate and People — Canoe Building — Marriage Customs — Native Dentistry — Visit from the Planter — A Strange Ship — Leave the Island — Native Smoking Habits — Sydney 53

Chapter VI

Second Cruise among the Kingsmill Group : Tanna Island — Pleasant Reception at Woodle's Island — Old Friends — Hall's and Pitt's Islands — Morgan Island — Native Mode of making Cocoanut Oil — A Murder — Exciting Adventure with a Whale — Death of a Shipmate — Burial at Sea — Attacked by Natives at Charlotte Island — Bad Meat — A Mutiny and its Result — A Tough Customer — Solomon Islands — Drummond Island — Hall's Island — Second Stay on Morgan Island — King Amannook takes Pas- CONTENTS. IX sage for Sydney — A Wreck on Bampton Reef — Sydney — The King sees the Sights ... 78

Chapter VII

Third Cruise among the Kingsmill Group : Attempted Arrest of Captain Hussey at Sydney — He goes to Lord Howe's Island — Mr. Fisher in Command of the Planter — The Planter sails for the Kingsmill Group — Lord Howe's Island — Captain Hussey returns to the Ship — A Hard Fight — Drummond Island — Woodle's and Hall's Islands — Morgan Island — King Amannook at Home — Captain Handy's Sharp Practice — We get our Oil — Another Big Antagonist — Ocean and Pleasant Islands — Canoes of the Drummond Islanders — Wreck of the Flying Fox — Pitt's Island — Captain Hussey meets Captain Handy — A Sixty-Barrel Whale — The Sailor's Saturday Night — A Murder at Drummond Island — More Whales — Sail for the Caroline Islands 113

Chapter VIII

Homeward Bound : Strong's Island — The Caroline Islands — Captain Hussey leaves the Planter — Going Home — Juan Fernandez — Round the Cape — Pernambuco — On Shore — Yellow Fever — A Serious Mishap — Leave Pernambuco — Block Island — The Planter arrives at Nantucket — Meetings with Friends — Mates of the Planter arrested for Murder — Crew detained as Witnesses — Mates Acquitted — Captain Hussey's Case before the Grand Jury — " No Bill " Found CONTENTS. X

Chapter IX

Mediterranean Voyages : Gold Digging in California — Brig William Penn at Strong's Island — Murder of Captain Hussey — Coasting on the Pacific — Return Home — Captain of Schooner Broadfleld — Encounter with Drunken Sailors at Malaga — At Kingston, Jamaica — Brig Lucy Atwood — Brig Martha Kendall bound for Trieste — Beating up Straits of Gibraltar — The Adriatic — Trieste — Palermo — Exciting Times — From Wilmington to Marseilles — Second Visit to Palermo — Hospitalities — Description of the City — Homeward Voyage — Hamburg — Seville — Cadiz — Rio Grande do Sul — Coasting Trips — New Orleans 151

Chapter X

The Bark Faith : Bordeaux — From New Orleans to Philadelphia — Heavy Weather — A German Passenger — Port Royal, S. C. — The Bark sold — The Brig Keying — Experience with a Canal Boat 173

Chapter XI

In the Brig Kate Stewart : From Philadelphia to Pensacola — A Colored Crew — Trouble with the Crew — Coasting Trips — At Mobile — Fever on Board — The Cook's Wife — To Cork for Orders — Cork — Antwerp — Chartered to Load for Genoa — Controversy with Charterer's Agent — Leave Antwerp — Obliged to Anchor in the CONTENTS. XI Downs — Death of Little Son — Embalming the Body — Genoa — At Palermo — Return to Phila delphia — At New Bedford — Burial of Child — Coasting Trips — Go to Rio de Janeiro — A Heavy Gale — Experiences — A Leaky Vessel — Speak a Disabled Schooner — In Rio de Janeiro Harbor — The Brig condemned and sold — In the Grocery Business — Purchase an Interest in Schooner Lath Rich 180

Chapter XII

West Indian Voyages : From New Bedford to St. Michael's in Schooner Lath Rich — Heavy Gale — Mate washed Overboard' — Put into Fayal for Repairs — Hurricane — In Collision with a Steamer — Loss of the Schooner — In Brig Herald for Nova Scotia — Surinam River — Dutch Guiana — Take Charge of a German Brig — St. Lucia — Martinique — Bermuda — Barbadoes — Port of Spain, Trinidad — Bark Ada Carter — Brunswick, Ga. — Trinidad — Fort de France, Martinique — In Business in Antigua — Schooner Lemuel Hall— Hamburg 200

Chapter XIII

The Steamer Mississippi : First Officer and Pilot — First Trip to the Azores — Second Trip — Third Trip — St. Michael's — An Unlucky Engineer — A Donkey Ride — Ponta Delgada — Madeira — Funchal — Death on Board — Go to Boston — Steamer sold CONTENTS. 227

Chapter XIV

East Indian Voyages : Bark Victor bound for Singapore — On the Coast of Java — Arrival at Singapore — ■ Homeward Voyage — Second Voyage — Penang — Singapore — Javanese — At Home — Third Voyage — Sailors' Duties — Doldrums — At Penang — At Singapore — The Disaster in Strait of Sunda — Off Cape of Good Hope — At St. Helena — The Bark Victor sold — Loss of the Bark — Conclusion LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. PAGE Portrait of Captain W. C. Paddack. Frontispiece. Whaler leaving Home 6 Cutting In a Whale off Western Islands .... 16 Fastening to a Whale — One Whaleboat Bottom up 54 Canoe and Outrigger of the Kingsmill Islanders . 126 Portrait of Mrs. Mary I. Paddack 196 My Daughter as she appeared on our Voj'age to the Surinam River 205 The Bark Victor, my last Vessel, in the China Trade LIFE ON THE OCEAN.

Chapter I

Introductory : Early Years — School-days — Inclination for the Sea — Captain Hussey's Advice — Signing the Ship's Articles — My Aunt's Last Words — Good-by. If a man intends to relate some of the ad ventures of a life spent upon the ocean, it is incumbent on him to give some account of his early history. I was born December 19, 1831, in South Dartmouth, Massachusetts, where my father was engaged in the painting business. When I was a year old, my parents removed to Nantucket, my father's birthplace. At the age of six years, I was sent to a pri mary school, and afterwards, when I was nine years old, to a Friends' school, taught by John Boadle, who later came to New Bed ford, where he followed the same calling. He will doubtless be remembered by many of New Bedford's older citizens. At this school I remained for five years, at the end of which INTRODUCTORY. term I entered the Academy, where I studied two years longer.

My school-days over, my mind for the first time became engaged with thoughts about my future course in bfe. Often, when my uncle returned from sea, would he portray in glow ing colors the scenes he had witnessed in for ei_:n lands. As I listened to his wonderful tales of seafaring life, my young imagination was often wrought up to the highest pitch of excitement at the idea of exploring the track less ocean ; and to me the prospect of tread ing the quarter-deck, as the ruling spirit of some stately craft, seemed to be the height of my ambition. The opportunities which I had of boarding whalers, when they came home, and of conversing with seamen, whom I regarded as the finest fellows in the world, by no means tended to abate my enthusiasm ; while every kind of dissuasion was resorted to, in consequence of the repugnance of my mother to the encouragement and gratification of my wishes.

The circumstances which led to the final determination of my course were these : early in the summer of the year 1847 the ship Planter of Nantucket, Captain Isaac B. Hussey, was being fitted out for a whalino- SIGNING TIIE SHIP'S ARTICLES. voyage to the Pacific Ocean. Several young men of my acquaintance had engaged to em bark in her, and they used every persuasion to induce me to accompany them. So one morning I visited the ship with two of my young friends, who had already signed the ship's articles, and in a short time made up my mind to ship with them, providing the captain would take me. When I went home, I conferred with my mother upon the subject, and as she deemed it no longer advisable to thwart me in my inclination, I repaired to Captain Hussey's house, where I found him at dinner.

I immediately made known my Avishes. " WUliam," he said, " you have chosen a life full of toil and hazard, and as this voyage will perhaps be one of great peril, it would be well for you to reflect maturely upon the measure you are about to adopt. Consult your mother, and if you are still de termined to go to sea I will give you a berth on board the Planter." I was now satisfied, and went home and told my mother that Captain Hussey Avould give me a chance to go in the ship. After dinner I went to the agent's office and signed the ship's articles for the one hundred and sixtieth lay. Between this time and the day appointed INTRODUCTORY. 4 for sailing, my mother had provided me with a sea-chest, well stocked with clothing, small stores, books, and such other matters as she thought necessary for my comfort.

The day before my departure was spent in calling upon my friends. My dear aunt, who was sick at the time, said to me, " William, you are now about to enter upon the world, and will soon be far beyond the control and friendly advice of your mother and friends ; you will be thrown upon your own resources, and it will depend much upon yourself what your future condition in life may be." She also told me that she never expected to see me again, which prediction proved to be too true, for she passed away during my absence. On the eventful morning the sun rose clear, the sky was serene, and the water was as smooth as in a calm. The hour for my departure at length arrived. I bade adieu to my family, and, the sound of " God bless you " ringing in my ears, I walked rapidly away from my home, toward the wharf where the boat was waiting to take us to the ship, which was lying off the bar at the time. A few minutes later I was on board, and the duties of my new life had begun.

Chapter II

On Board the Ship Planter : Ship's Company — Captain's Speech — Watches — Officers' Duties — Discipline — Ship Duty — Seasickness — Practicing the Crew — Flores — Corvo — Azores described — Our First Whale — Fayal — Island Trade. On July 4, 1847, the ship Planter of Nan tucket sailed from that port, on a whaling voyage, around Cape Horn, in the South Pacific Ocean. She was commanded by Captain Isaac B. Hussey. The remainder of her company were : Joseph H. Fisher, first officer ; William H. Chase, second officer ; Charles G. Macy, cooper ; Joseph Warren, cooper's mate and ship-keeper, all of Nan tucket ; and a crew of twenty-five men. At six o'clock in the morning the captain, pilot, and all the crew went on board. The wind being fair, though light, orders were given to man the windlass, and at the same time some of the crew were sent aloft to loose the sails.

In a little while the sails were hoisted, and the anchor was released ON BOARD THE SHIP PLANTER. from its sandy bed. The gentle breeze from the shore filled our sails, and at length the good ship Planter was heading towards Gay Head. The breeze began to increase from the northeast, and we soon lost sight of the town of oil and oily men. All hands were now em ployed in clearing up the decks. At six o'clock that evening we rounded the ship to and discharged our pilot, Gay Head light bearing N. E., distance four miles. We then secured our anchor on the bows, after which the crew were called aft and divided into two watches, — starboard and larboard. Then boats' crews were chosen, when I was drafted into the first mate's boat and allotted to the after oar. Captain Hussey next addressed the crew as follows : " Now, my men, we are bound on a long, and perhaps a perilous voyage, and I expect every man on board will do his duty and obey the officers' orders, and we will get along well together.

If there are any who desire to learn navigation, the officers aft will instruct you, and you will have per mission to come aft in your watch below, whenever the weather will permit." After supper we set the dog-watches. An explanation of the watches may perhaps be necessary for the enlightenment of those of WHALER LEAVING HOME WA TCHES. my readers who have never been at sea. The captain's or second mate's watch, which is the starboard watch, always takes the first watch the first night out, — that is, from eight o'clock until twelve, — when the first mate's, or larboard, watch comes on deck, and the starboard watch goes below until four in the morning. The starboard watch now comes on deck again, and remains until eight, when the larboard watch is called and the starboard watch goes below and remains until twelve meridian.

Each watch serves four hours, ex cept that the time from four to eight p. M. is divided into two watches, called by sailors the dog-watch. These are in reality two half watches, one being from four to six, and the other from six to eight. During the dog watches, the crew are generally up on deck ; some are busy mending clothes, singing songs, smoking, while others are on the forecastle playing cards, etc. The captain always walks on the weather side of the quarter-deck, the first mate on the lee side, the second mate in the weather gang way, or amidship, and the boatsteerers on the main hatch and lee gangway. The crew have the whole of the forward part of the ship, that is forward of the try-works. The members of ON BOARD TIIE SHIP PLANTER. the crew always pass on the lee side of the deck when they go aft to relieve the wheel.

At daylight the watch on deck is set at work, some coiling up the rigging, while one man in the main chains draws water and fills a large tub on the deck. One boatsteerer is sent aloft, to the main-topgallant cross-trees, where he can command a full view of the horizon, and at the same time a man from the forecastle goes aloft and perches himself on the fore-topgallant cross-trees, and another is stationed on the mizzen-topgallant cross-trees. Each man is obliged to remain on duty aloft two hours before he is relieved. The officers also take their turns standing watch at the main-topgallant cross-trees after the decks are washed off. At half past seven the larboard watch is called for breakfast. At eigdit the watch comes on deck and the starboard watch now goes below and remains until twelve meridian.

The captain never stands a watch ; he comes and goes as he pleases, and is account able to no one. He gives his orders to his first officer, and seldom interferes with him. The first and second officers stand no watch except when making passages, and when try ing out whales. The boatsteerers head the SHIP DUTY. 9 watches on whaling grounds and are usually distributed among three watches, — starboard, larboard, and waist. The first mate keeps the log-book, for which he is responsible to the owners and insurers, in case of any disaster on the voyage. He also has charge of all the provisions and of the stowing down of oil. The steward has charge of all the small stores in the cabin, and gives them to the cook when required. The cook has sole control of the galley, and will very seldom allow any one inside of it.

Frequently people say that sailors have an easy time at sea, and wonder what they can find to do. The discipline on board of a ship requires every man on deck to be at work. For instance, on the morning of our second day out, after the decks were washed and the mastheads manned, the boatsteerers were at work getting their boats ready for whaHng. While some were grinding irons, lances, and spades, others were putting mats and battens on the rigging, unbending chains and stowing the anchors and chains below, coiling lines in the tubs, filling water kegs, and furnishing lantern kegs with lantern, candles, matches, and bread, which are always kept in all the boats, in case they are caught out after dark. ON BOARD THE SHIP PLANTER. Between Nantucket and the Western Islands is a favorite cruising ground, even to the present day, for vessels of all classes, during the summer months.

The lookouts at the mastheads were cautioned to keep their eyes open and see if they could raise a school of sperm whales. We now had a good breeze from the southwest, with a heavy sea running. I staggered about the deck, and managed to crawl around, holding on the rail. When I began to experience the horrors of seasickness, my legs failed me, and I was compelled to sit down upon a spar. I was not the only sick one on board, however. The mate came along where I was sitting, and, seeing my condition, told me that I would soon feel better. " Stay on deck as long as you can, for if you go below you will feel worse." Such words of kindness encour aged me, and now and then I would make an effort to move about, but I could hardly walk. I felt very weak and trembled violently from the effect of vomiting.

This continued for several days, when I commenced eating salt beef, and found that it was not so bad on an empty stomach, and from that time I seldom missed a meal while I was on board the good ship Planter. FLORES. July 6. The day commenced with a fine breeze from the southwest. Passed several in ward and outward bound steamers and sailing; vessels. Employed in fitting boats. Cooper employed in making deck buckets. Saw several schools of porpoises. July 7. This day fine, pleasant weather. At two p. M., the wind being very light, the captain ordered all the boats down, to give the crew practice in going alongside of whales, which was done by throwing large straw hats overboard, and the boatsteerers throwing lances into them, and the officers ordering the men to stern all, stern two, and pull ahead three ; and pull ahead two and stern three ; and pull ahead all, and stern all.

(This was done several times on the outward passage to the Western Islands.) This day we caught a fine dolphin. This is the quick est fish that swims in salt water. The fish was cleaned and cooked for the cabin. At four p. m. we went on board, hoisted our boats, and cleared up the decks for the night. Middle parts pleasant, latter parts employed in ship's duties. From this date until July 25 we had fine, pleasant weather, all sail set. At eight A. m. we made Flores, one of the Western ON BOARD THE SHIP PLANTER. 12 Islands, which is situated in lat. 39° 22' N., long. 31° 12' W. I would here say, for the benefit of the un initiated, that the nautical day begins and ends at noon. July 26. Day began with fine, pleasant weather. At one P. m. the captain went on shore with his boat's crew. AVe loaded our boat with potatoes and onions, and sailed in the evening for Corvo, a small island about ten miles north of Flores.

We took in all light sails ; middle parts pleasant. At six A. m. we were close into the land. The captain and second mate went on shore with two boats for recruits. At ten a. m. boats came alongside loaded with potatoes, onions, and fruit ; took them on board, and the boats went on shore again. I went in the captain's boat, so that I had a good chance to see the island. Several of our crew were sick after leaving home. July 27. The day commenced with fine, pleasant weather. Several boats came off from the island with fruit, eggs, and wine. At six p. M. our boats also came off with vegetables ; took them on board and hoisted the boats, and stood towards Fayal. Middle and latter parts pleasant. THE AZORES. The Azores, or Western Islands, are a series of islands in the North Atlantic Ocean belonging to the kingdom of Portugal.

They extend from lat. 37° to 40° N., and from long. 25° to 30° W., and are about 800 miles from the coast of Portugal. They consist of the islands of Flores, Corvo, Terceira, St. George, Pico, Fayal, St. Michael's, and St. Mary's, with many smaller islets, of which St. Michael's is the largest, having an area of about 350 square miles. The islands are especially noted for their delightful climate and fertile soil. They are of volcanic origin and subject to occasional eruptions. Many fountains of boiling water are also found on the islands. Being lofty, rugged, and precipi tous, they present a very picturesque appearance. Pico, which is the highest of the is lands, can be seen a distance of ninety miles in clear weather. One hindrance to the pros perity of the islands has been the want of good harbors, but this deficiency has been in a great measure removed by the erection of breakwaters.

They export large quantities of oranges, lemons, pine-apples, wine, and willow ware, most of which goes to Europe, the re mainder bein grdivided between Brazil and the United States. ON BOARD THE SHIP PLANTER. The bark Sarah of Boston, Captain R. L. Hale, runs regularly between that port and the islands, carrying freight and passengers, and returning to the United States with oil left by our whalers, and passengers for New Bed ford, Boston, and San Francisco. July 28. The day commenced with fine, pleasant weather. Crew employed in making baskets out of hoops and rope yarns, and fill ingthem with onions, which are to be hung up under the boats. While we were at this work a man at the masthead raised a school of sperm whales, and the order was given to call all hands, haul up the mainsail, and haul aback the main yard.

As the whales were not more than a mile off, the men were ordered to hoist and lower the boats, when we all started in pursuit of the whales. This is the most exciting time on board of a whaler, for as soon as whales are raised, every one is run ning : some are filling the water kegs, some are getting the line tubs into the boats, others are casting off the boats' grips and getting the falls on deck, ready to hoist, swing, and lower away. The whales were going to the windward at the time, so we were compelled to use our oars, pulling for all we were worth. The captain shouted, " Pull strong, my boys • OUR FIRST WHALE. 15 pull ahead ; pull hard ; pull, ye souls of brass ! " We were almost up with the whales, and a minute later he gave the order for the boatsteerer to stand up. " Now is your time ; give it to him !

" — and away went two irons into a forty-barrel sperm whale. Then followed the order, " Stern all. Stern hard ! " At times the whale jumped several feet out of the water. As soon as we were fast, the cap tain went forward, and the boatsteerer went aft to take care that the line did not get foul when we hauled up to lance the whale. It was but a little while before he spouted thick blood. He ran a short distance, when he made an awful splashing and jumped out of the water. We were now ordered to take our oars in case he came for us, so that we could pull the boat out of the way. In a few min utes he turned up, dead, when we hauled up alongside of him and cut a small hole in his head and fastened a line through it, and started for the ship. In the mean time the other two boats were chasing the whales ; but after we struck our whale they all started fast to the windward.

It was not long before the ship came alongside of us, and, the whale be ing made fast, we hoisted the boat. By this time the other boats had given up the chase, ON BOARD THE SHIT* PLANTER. and they were soon alongside again. After hoisting the boats, we commenced getting up our cutting falls and making ready to cut him in. When this was done, all hands were ordered to dinner. One can imagine what an excited set of men we were, all talking at once. Each had his own story to tell. We all killed the whale. At one P. M. we slung our stages over the side for the mates to stand on, and the blocks were overhauled to the water's edge. When everything is ready for the process of cutting-in, a small hole is cut in the side of the whale and the boatsteerer jumps over board and hooks on ; the fall is then taken to the windlass, and the crew heave away, rolling in the huge blanket pieces, which are cut about four feet wide and ten feet long, and stowing them between decks for future use.

Then the head is hoisted in, and the case put into try-pots and boiled out. Afterwards the blubber is cut into small pieces called by whalemen horse-pieces ; these are again cut into slices about the size of one's hand and put into the try-pots and tryed out. When this process is finished, the oil is bailed off into a copper cooler, thence into a try-pot, to cool ; it is then put into casks. After re- CUTTING IN A WHALE OFF THE WESTERN ISLANDS FAYAL maining on deck for a few days, it is coopered and stowed down in the ship's lower hold. I would say that we have constantly three or four men aloft on the lookout for whales, — one officer and one boatsteerer at the main masthead, and one forward. To-day we finished trying out our whale, which made 40 barrels of oil. July 29. Tbe day commenced with fine, pleasant weather.

Crew employed in washing ship. At eight o'clock last evening the captain shaped the ship's course for Fayal, for the purpose of landing our oil. Saw a large ship bound to the southward. At eight o'clock this morning saw the islands of Fayal and Pico, bearing E. S. E., distance thirty miles. Cooper employed in coopering oil. July 30. This day began with a fine breeze from the southwest. At three p. m. we made the harbor of Fayal. Captain Hus sey had his boat lowered and went on shore to make arrangements for landing our oil, to be shipped home. The ship stood off shore. At six o'clock the captain came on board with only four men, two of the crew having run away. Stood off and on through the night. At eight A. m. stood well into the O -_> harbor, when a large lighter came off to us ON BOARD THE SHIP PLANTER. and took our oil on shore.