On and off Duty, being leaves from an officer's notebook. ... With illustrations, etc

Front matter

■ ■ ■ ■ ■ the home op the ckocodile. j Fr.ontispiect 'ENE ON LAGOON, KAST COAST OF MADAGASCAR. ON AND OFF DUTY, BEING LEAVES FROM AN OFFICER'S NOTE-BOOK. BY SAMUEL PASFIELD OLIVER (captain reserve list), late royal artilleey, FELLOW OF THE SOCIETY OF ANTIQUARIES, FELLOW OF THE ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY, CORRESPONDING MEMBER OF TBE ANTHROPOLOGICAL INSTITUTE, MEMBER OF THE ROYAL UNITED SERVICE INSTITUTE ETC. " Miles resign.. Me nova buccina, Me Don prof'auns militiæ labor Deposcit." WITH ILLUSTRATIONS _5Y THE AUTHOR. LONDON: W. H. ALLEN & CO., 13 WATERLOO PLACE, PALL MALL. S.W PUBLISHERS TO THE INDIA OFFICE. 1881. (AU sigh's reserved.) LONDON : PRINTED BY W. H. ALLEN AND CO.. 13 WATERLOO PLACE

Preface

. The main contents of this volume are derived from the rough scribblings and jottings iu note and sketch books made by tbe Author when a young subaltern of artillery. Such notes as these have been supplemented by extracts from letters written to friends at home, whilst the more elaborated portions have appeared in the journals or proceedings of various societies, and as articles in periodicals. To the " Gardeners' Chronicle," in particular, are mostly due the illustrations, which were accurately drawn and engraved by Mr. Worthington Gr. Smith from my original studies taken on the spot. Two engravings by Mr. J. Greenaway, and two others by Mr. Worthington G. Smith, are reduced from larger drawings iu the " Illustrated London News," made by Mr. Mason Jackson from my sketches. To the proprietors of the "Gardeners' Chronicle " and of the "Illustrated London News " the hearty thanks of the Author are hereby offered for the use of the electro-type blocks aud reproductions from the woodcuts which originally appeared in their respective journals.

Mr. J. G. Baker, F.R.S., the eminent botanist of the Herbarium at the Royal Gardens, Kew, has contributed his paper (lately read at York) on the natural history of Madagascar as an appendix to Part IL, thus adding a scientific value to a volume otherwise unscientific. Professor J. W. Judd, F.R.S., the first of Vulcanologists, has also kindly assisted in the description of the volcano of Reunion, by his approval of the proofs. The debt of gratitude to these scientists is herewith sincerely acknowledged. S. P. OLIVER. St. Cecilia's Day, 22nd November 1881 2, Eastern Villas, Anglesey, Gosport. PAGE 3. 57 73 CONTENTS.

Chapter I

Southampton to Galle. — Hong Kong. — No. _ Battery, 12th Brigade, R.A. — Canton River. — The Garrison of Canton. — The Heights. — Pony Battery- A Visit to the Pleasure Gardens. — Chinese Gardeners. — The Native City Prisons. — Torture of the Criminals. — Wholesale Executions. -The Temple of Horrors. — Changes of Regiments. — The Treaty of Tientsin. — An Excursion by WTater. — A Elect of Braves. — The Commercial Town of Sy-nam. — The Island of Kwang-li. — The Antelope Pass. — Chinese superstition. — Arrival at Shao K'ing. — Reception by the Chief Magistrate. — The Marble Rocks of the Seven Stars. — Return of the Excursion. — Incidents on the Way. — Back at Canton. — A Wesleyan Mission Station. — The White Cloud Mountains. — Up the Pei-Kiang. — Preparing for an Official Visit ............

Chapter II

Visit to Tsing Yuen. — Impeded by Floods. — A Heavy Storm. — Picturesque Scene in a Temple. — An Uncomfortable Journey. — A Chinese Guide. — Loss of a Pony and Provisions. — The Walled City of Tsing Yuen. — Ravages of Tigers. — The Maoutsze Aborigines. — An Army of Braves. — A Crystal Button Mandarin. — Deserters from the Garrison. — Chinese Criminal Garotted Publicly. — Floods. — Piratical Attack. — Leave Canton. — In Memoriam W. F. Mayers. — H. M.S. Vulcan. — Nearly Ashore. — Shantung and Chefoo. — Up the Peiho in the Drake, gunboat. — Tientsin. — Gymkana.— Death of Lieut. Bond. — By Boat to Tung-chow. — Ride to Peking. — The Great Marble Road. — Reception at the Embassy

Chapter III

Lama Monastery. — Buddhist Temple. — The Summer Palace. — Fane's Horse. — Squadron ordered to Japan. — Join the Odin. — Nagasaki. — Desima. — Salamanders. — Pappenburg. — Jon-noki. — Assistant-Engineer murdered. — Hirado. — Spex Straits. — Aground. — A Japanese Hero. — An Inland Sea, Islets, and Volcanic Mountains. — A Flogging Parade. — Yokohama and the surrounding district. — Japanese Coinage, Fruit, &o. .......----

Chapter IV

Japanese Menageries and Aquaria.- -Circular Hand-Mirrors. — The Pleasure Quarter of Yokohama. — A Japanese Tragedy. — Visit to the British Consul. — H. M.'s Surveying Ship, Actœon. — The Baths, Public and Private. — H. M.S. Imperieuse. — Sunday Morning Afloat, with Choral Service. — An Afternoon on Shore. — Visit to a Hippodrome. — Japanese Circus Feats. — Earthquake, and its Effects. — Leave Yokohama for Yeddo. — Typhoon. — Landing at Yeddo. — Legation in a State of Siege. — Objets d'art. — Devices explained. — Vestiges of the Night Attack. — Funeral in Yeddo Bay. — A Ride through Yeddo. — The Palace Grounds. — Arrival of the Encounter. — Adieu to Japan. — On Board H. M.S. Imperieuse. — Return to Tientsin. — The Coromandel in Collision. — Embarkation of Troops. — Shanghai. — Kowloon. — Singapore. — Madras.— Trincomalee Harbour. — Kottiar. — The Urgent sails Southwards - VI CONTENTS. PAGE. 105 Ill 171 201 221

Chapter I

Crossing the Line.— Skylarking.— Cholera.— Disembarkation.— Smuggling.— The Citadel.— Black River Post.— La Chasse.— Ellis, the Missionary Apostle . Tho Carriole.— Governor Stevenson. — Arrival of General Johnstone. — Mission despatched to Madagascar in H. M.S. Gorgon. — Arrival at Tamatave. — Visit from Hova Officials -----------

Chapter II

Classification of the Malagasy Tribes. — Their estimated Number and Extent. — Physiognomy of the Hovas. — Their Superiority to the other Races. — Parallel Analogies in the Pacific. — Their Linguistics. — The Betsimasaraka and Betanimena. — The Sakalavas. — The Bezanozano. — The Ikongos. — Firenenauas. — The Vazimba or Kimos. — Religion. — Mosaic Observances. — Barbarous Punishments in vogue. — Caste. — Polygamy. — Sepulture. — Habits of Life. — Arrival at Madagascar. — Reception by the Governor. — The Chief Judge's House. — A unique Dinner-party. — The Marmites. — On the Line of March — Desertion of Baggage-bearers. — Strike of the Marmites for more Wages. — A Compromise. — Encamping under Difficulties. — The General and ihe Bishop. — Collapse of a Hammock. — A Journey up the Iharoka. — Exploring the Country. — Native Burials. — A Traveller's Troubles. — Hot Springs. — Varieties of Vegetation. — A Fever- Village. — Continuation of the Journey. — Different Travelling. — Forest Solitude. — Beautiful Scenery. — Sunday's Halt and Rest. — Objects of Interest. — Shooting Lemurs. — A Horse attacked by a Crocodile and a Slave destroyed. — End of the Fifteenth Day's Journey. — A Native Suburb. — Crowded Sunday Services. — Passion for Music and Oratory. — Official Beception at the Silver Palace. — Presenting a Bible from Queen Victoria. — An Execution-ground. — Another Native Palace. — Exploring the Neighbourhood ..........

Chapter III

Parade-ground of Mahamasina. — Procession of the King. — Fete given by the French. — Dancing and Dinner Party. — The Tarpeian Rock. — The Water of Lies. — Primitive Open-air Court of Justice. — Consecration of the King of Andohalo. — Imahamasina. — The Champ de Mars at Antananarivo. — The Idols and their Bearers. — The King's Speech. — Dispersal of the Clans. — Accident to the King. — Royal Coronation Banquet. — Departure from the Capital. — Revolution, and Death of Radama - - - -

Chapter IV

A Mauritius Hurricane. — Arsenal. — The Barrachois. — Atmospheric Phenomena. — Sharks in Waiting. — Minute Guns at Sea. — Effects of Hurricane. — Scene of Shipwreck. — Paul et Virginie. — Typhoons of the Indian Ocean. — Calm after Storm .........

Chapter V

Keunion. — The Largest of the Mascarene Islands. — General Description. — On Board the Saxonia. — Disembark at St. Denis. — Our Consul. — The Town. — Description of Route to Salazie. — Fine Scenery. — Tropical Rain. — Bourbon Coffee. — Swiss-like Situation of Hell-Bourg. — Climb up the Crater Cliffs to La Fenetre. — Six Thousand Feet above the Sea. — Landslip and Loss of Sixty Lives. — A Haz-de- Marge. — Kesidence of a Bourbon Planter. — Tame Eels. — Journey to St. Rose. — The Volcano. — Scrope's Authority. — Professor Judd's Work quoted. — Professor — Description of the Grand Brule. — The New Lava-stream. — Cascade of Lava over Cliff. — St. Pierre. — Cirque de Cilaos. — Les Eaux Thermales. — Ascent to the Plaine des Caffres. — European Flora. — Arduous Climb up the Volcano. Two Nights in a Lava-cavern. — The famous Pas de Bellecombe. — Storm on Summit of the Mountain. — Leave Bourbon. — Character of the Creoles one hundred years ago - CONTENTS. VII

Chapter VI. Page

Theories of Volcanic Action. — Bernardin de St. Pierre. — Rival Modern Hypotheses. — Scrope, Darwin, Judd, and Wallace. — Professor Prestwich's latest Theory. — Captain Rooke's Voyage along the Malagasy Lakes. — Fresh-water Fish of Mauritius. — Camarons. — TVreck of the Sf. Geran. — Riviere Noire. — L'Abbe Eggermont and his Birds. — Cannonier's Point. — H.M.S. Orontes. — Ceylon. — Temple of the Dalada at Kandy. — Peradeniya Gardens. — Huge India-rubber Tree. — Mr. Thwaites, the Director, his distinguished Botanical Career. — The Home of the Cocoa-nut. — Return to Mauritius. — Batteries embark for England. — Arrive at the Cape. — St. Helena. — Home at Last - 262

Appendix

I. On the Natural History of Madagascar, by J. G. Baker, F.R.S. ...... 299

APPENDIX.

II. Cryptogams and Phanerogams, Mascarene Islands .-...-.- 314

APPENDIX.

III. St. George Mivart on Chamæleons ........... 314

APPENDIX.

IV. Mammalia of Madagascar ._____*___.- 315

Chapter I

Voyage Home in the Orontes. — Fort Brockhurst. — On Detachment in the Isle of Wight. — Wrecks. — ■ The Klabotermann. — Shoeburyness. — Garrison Life. — Proposal to Explore a Route across Central America. — Sir Roderick Murchison. — Leave of Absence. — Westward-ho. — Bound for Columbia. — On Board the Tasmaninn. — Gale at Sea. — Arrival in the West Indies. — Colon and Panama. — Greytown - 317

Chapter II

River San Juan. — Junction of Colorado River and San Juan River. — Machuca. — San Carlos. — River Frio. — On the Anna Maria Rock. — Bay of San Miguelito. — Lake Nicaragua. — San TJbaldo - - - 329

Chapter III

Leave Lake Nicaragua. — Halt at Tipitapa. — Sail across Lake Managua — Swamped. — Crater-lake of Tiscapa. — Ride to Leon. — Examine Line from Leon to Realejo. — Volcano of Momotombo. — Temporales 335

Chapter IV

Los Bestias. — Arrive at Managua. — Tipitapa. — Malagatoya River. — A Jicaral. — San Nicolas. — Juigalpa. — Arrive at Libertad. — Tigre Mine. — Javali Mine .-..-... 341

Chapter V

Continue the Cutting. — Quasje. — Curassows and Tapir. — Luminous Beetles. — Tobacco-juice used aa a Universal Panacea. — Murmuring in the Camp. — Deviation of Magnetic Needle. — Reach a Tributary of the Rama River. — Armies of Foraging Ants ........ 357

Chapter VI

Bright-coloured Frogs. — Shoot a Puma, — Desertion of Labourers. — Make a Raft. — Difficulties of a Raft-voyage. — Rapids. — Meet Relief-party. — The Big Falls. — Rama River. — Return to England - - 366

APPENDIX.

. Dans les Forets ------------- CONTENTS. VIII LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

Part I

I. Scene on Lagoon, East Coast of Madagascar (vide p. 221) Eagle's Nest, Bournemouth - - - - Frontispiece. II. To face page 1 III. Pnntinqua's Garden „ 10 IV. Pnntinqua's Garden, Pagoda Shrine and Grave near Canton Street Scene in Peking „ 12 V. 42 VI. 54 VII. VIII. Temple at Nagasaki - Street in Yeddo ii i, 64 94

Part II

ix King Radama II. , Seal of Madagascar, and Autographs The Pouce Mountain from Cemetery, Port Louis To face page 105 X 108 XI. Sugar Plantation, Moka, Mauritius - Home of the Ouvirandra Fenestralis Cattle traversing Forest of Analamazaotra Plains of Ankay ... 112 XII 154 XIII. 158 XIV. 160 XV, The Royal Botanic Garden of Mahazaorivo - Embarking Oxen, Tamatavo „ 186 XVI. 220 XVII. XVIII. Geological Sketch of Reunion Lava Cascade, Bourbon 241 ., 245 To face „ 260 „ „ 277 XIX Plaine des Palmistes - Group of Traveller's Palms, Pamplemousses Kaigalle, Ceylon - XX XXI. „ 286 XXII. XXIII. XXIV. Temple of the Dalada, Kandy Roots of India-rubber Tiee - Home of the Cocoa-nut „ 290 293 295 XXV. Napoleon's Tomb 299 XXVI Vignette, Ongar Rectory Vignette, Bovinger Rectory Under Halley's Mount 298 XXVII. XXVIII. „ 315 To face „ 316

Part III. XXIX

Greytown Harbour To face page 317 XXX. Pasquiel, River Panaloya „ ,, 342 XXXI. San Domingo Mine, Chontales 346 XXXII. Cutting through Forest „ 356 XXXIII. Raft Journey on River Rama XXXIV. Bovinger Church 368 „ 373 XXXV. Vignette, Home Scene „ eagle's NEST, BOURNEMOUTH, in 1860. [To face p. I. BEING LEAVES FROM AN OFFICER'S NOTE-BOOK.

Part I

— TURANIA. CHINA AND JAPAN.

Chapter I

Southampton to Galle. — Hong Kong. — No. 4 Battery, 12th Brigade, R.A. — Canton River. — The Garrison of Canton. — The Heights.— Pony Battery. — A Visit to the Pleasure Gardens. — Chinese Gardeners. — Tho Native City Prisons. — Torture of the Criminals. — Wholesale Executions. — The Temple of Horrors. — Changes of Regiments. — The Treaty of Tientsin. — An Excursion by Water. — A Fleet of Braves. — The Commercial Town of Sy-nam. — The Island of Kwang-li. — The Antelope Pass. — Chinese Superstition. — Arrival at Shao K'ing. — Reception by the Chief Magistrate. — The Marble Rocks of the Seven Stars. — Return of the Excursion. — Incidents on the Way. — Back at Canton. — A Wesleyan Mission Station. — The White Cloud Mountains. — Up the Pei-Kiang. — Preparing for an Official Visit. On the last day of June 1860 a letter from the Quartermaster- General's department reached me at Eagle's Nest, Bournemouth, by which I was informed that a passage to China had been provided for me on board the contract mail steamer leaving Southampton on the 4th of July.

Accordingly the following Wednesday found me on board the Pera, one of the finest of the Peninsular and Oriental Company's comfortable packets, en route for the East. All readers are only too familiar with the hackneyed overland route, which may therefore be very briefly dismissed. Suffice it to say that we were a very jolly party on board. Amongst our own particular circle we had Cookesley, of the Commissariat, a brother school-fellow of mine at Eton (where in his day he was the sturdiest of football players at the Wall) ; Gully, of the Bengal (now Royal) Horse Artillery ; Trydell, of the Ceylon Rifles ; Leacock, of my own corps; and Lindley, afterwards a famous leader of the Tai-ping Wang rebels, besides numerous civilians and their families, amongst whom the most notable were Lady Maxwell, wife of Sir_ Peter Benson Maxwell, chief judge of Penang, a Spanish admiral and suite bound for the Philippines, a Dutch family for Java, some French savans for Cochin and Saigon, our English Consul at Canton, Sir Brooke Robertson and his son, Russell Brooke Robertson, &c, which, with some student interpreters for Japan, formed altogether a most agreeable society.

We had a glimpse of Gibraltar on the 9th, breakfasted at the Royal Artillery mess at Fort St. Elmo, Malta, on the 13th, and enjoyed an hour's swim under Fort Tigne before re-embarking, und reached Alexandria and Cairo by the 17th. The Simla having broken down with her main shaft broken, caused a fortunate delay to our party at Cairo, enabling us to see the pyramids, sphynx, petrified forest, the palace and gardens of the Viceroy at Shoubra, the citadel, mosques, tombs, and bazaars, which, although delightfully novel to young and enthusiastic subalterns on their first visit to the East, have been far too often described to be interesting to modern readers. We were over-crowded on board the Bombay steamer, and consequently we made the acquaintance of prickly heat during the Egyptian dog-days whilst in the Red Sea, and fed principally on kabobs and mango-chutney during the same period.

At Galle we were refreshed by the sight of the rich tropical vegetation, with a luxurious bath, and a sub sequent Cingalese prawn curry at the Old Mansion House, and we looked with some interest at the wreck of the Malabar, the Peninsular and Oriental steamvessel which went down when Lord Elgin was on board some time previously. Here our party was partially broken up, and we transferred ourselves aud baggage on board the Emeu, a fast steamer, which carried us to Penang by the 10th of August. Here we followed the usual programme, viz. eating mangosteens aud pine-apples and admiring the waterfall. The next day we spent in gazing at the wooded coasts of Sumatra and the distant Mount Ophir, or watching the water-snakes which seemed to abound in the straits, and on the 1,2th we anchored at Singapore.

The moment we arrived some communication was made to a rakish-looking swift steam-yacht, one of the fastest vessels in the world, which instantly sped off at an enormous pace to carry the news of the rise or fall in price of opium, &c, in advance to Hong Kong and Shanghai. On the first receipt of any important fluctuation of prices immense sums of money depended, and what we should consider large fortunes in Europe were lost or won by the gigantic speculations carried on by the merchant princes 'of Shanghai and Hong Kong at a single stroke. This was twenty years ago, before the telegraph had superseded the news brought by steamer. On Sunday, the 19th August, we were in sight of the "Asses' Ears" (as the first rocks outside Hong Kong are named), and Victoria Peak soon loomed in sight through rain and cloud.

We had passed one or two junks outside, and now we steamed slowly to our anchorage amidst a crowd of shipping, mostly American and English, with crowds of Chinese floating craft of every description, whilst a cannon was fired from our deck to give the authorities notice of the arrival of the English mail-packet. Before anchoring, however, every moveable piece of metal — such as brass belay ing-pins, gun-sights, marline spikes, &c. — was removed, and stowed away in lockers, as the Chinese are such inveterate thieves that it is absolutely necessary to be on guard against their accomplished manœuvres. The necessity of this precaution was soon evident, for the moment the anchor dropped we were surrounded by boats and sampans, from which we were boarded by numbers of Chinese, male and female, all jabbering " Pidji'n" English (as the colloquial jargon is termed), the majority of whom appeared chiefly solicitous to obtain our linen for washing, in aid of which laudable object they flourished testimonials of ability and honesty, many of which were undoubted forgeries, whilst as mniiv were ridiculous and testified to the fact that the bearer was an indubitable scoundrel, and utterly devoid of conscience, especially in money matters.

Under such pretext no part of the vessel was sacred to their intrusion, and I am sorry to add that the obvious object of a portion of these visitors was, to say the least of it, somewhat equivocal. I had before made the acquaintance of the Mongolic type of feature at Penang and Singapore, which places have been thoroughly swamped by Chinese " cheap labour," and so the flat-faced, snub-nosed, skew-eyed natives of the Celestial Empire were no longer novelties to my eye, at least as regards the male portion. But it was new to see the fairer sex sculling the sampans with their children on their backs, and interesting to watch them vociferating and struggling iu rival contest to reach the gangways. Leacock and myself soon landed, and amid pouring rain found our way to the Murray Barracks, where we reported ourselves to the adjutant, and I discovered to my great dismay that No. 4 Battery of the 12th Brigade, to which I was posted, was at Canton, and had not gone with the expeditionary force to the north, so that all my high-flown expectations of seeing the Taku forts taken and entering Pekin were dashed to the ground.

However, there was no help for it, and meantime both Leacock and myself were to remain and do duty at Hong Kong until instructions were received from Brigadier Crawford, commanding the Royal Artillery in the south of China, as to our destination. As the Brigadier was at Canton we should have to stay at Hong Kong for some days. Our cheery adjutant, R. C. Campbell, did the honours of the station well, and speedily initiated us into the local ways and customs of the garrison, aud we soon made ourselves comfortable in the Murray Barracks, spacious handsome buildings, with lofty cool quarters. There was no Artillery mess open, it having been shut up pro tern, duringthe absence of the force, which had sailed to the Gulf of Pechili, so we messed with the Provisional Depot Battalion, made up of stray detachments of the regiments in the field.

My recollections of this scratch mess are chiefly associated with Moselle-cup and American ice, with a capital set of agreeabjp companions. Life in Hong Kong was very pleasant for the short time I was there, although it would doubtless soon prove monotonous. We had the usual routine of regimental duty, commencing with parade at 5 a.m., now and then an occasional court-martial (which, followed as it was by a great tiffin, was rather an opportunity for a social meeting), and sometimes a funeral, which was not so lively. Besides our duties, which were not onerous, we had early morning visits to the racecourse to see the horses in training in the Happy Valley, rides in the evening to " Scandal Point," which forms the termination of the fashionable ride of Hong Kong, and sometimes, hot as it was, we used to play at cricket and " tip and run," or listen to the band playing on the parade-ground near the church.

We had the run of a luxurious club and any amount of open-handed entertainment, and every species of hospitality from the civilian, naval, and military community. On the 30th August orders came down for me to join my battery at Canton, so the next day, in company with Colonel Murray, of the 87th Regiment, and another of his officers, I embarked on board the White Cloud, an American saloon river-steamer, with large paddles and steeple engines, which ran regularly between Hong Kong aud Canton. It was noticeable that all the Chinese passengers, of whom there was no small quantity, were not allowed on the upper deck, but kept below and barred in. As Mr. F. B. Harte writes with truthful humour : — " Which I wish to remark — And my language is plain — That for ways that are dark And for tricks that are vain, The heathen Chinee is peculiar, Which the same I would rise to explain."

The Europeans alone were allowed on the upper deck, where also were placed conveniently stands of loaded rifles, with bayonets and cutlasses handy, in case an attempt should be made by the passengers to take possession of the vessel. It was not so very long since this very steamer had actually been captured by the Chinese passengers rising simultaneously with a preconcerted attack from two piratical junks. The steamer was afterwards recovered, but much loss of property besides some bloodshed on the occasion made the above-named precautions necessary. Subsequently, whilst I was at Canton, an attempt was made to capture another river-steamer in a similar manner. Happily this was prevented, but not without loss of life. Our track lay between numerous picturesque islands, and we had some pretty peeps of fishing villages sheltered under banyan trees and bamboo clumps with their attendant joss-houses; peaceful-looking retreats, but in reality the abodes of a thoroughly piratical race.

About noon we reached the straits called Bocca Tigris, formerly defended by the famous Bogue forts, whose now dismantled remains make picturesque and conspicuous ruins. Colonel Murray had been present at the storming and capture of these forts, and he gave an interesting account of the operations, pointing out the spots attacked, the route of the English forces, ajid other details. I believe these forts have been taken by the British or Allied forces on at least three separate occasions. The islands were of bold, rocky outline, but we now entered the alluvial plains of the delta formed at the outlet of the large river system which drains the two Qwaugs and the neighbouring provinces. The fields on the sides of the river were swampy and below high water-mark, inundation being prevented by the large embankments, which were planted with plantain and other economical trees.

The rice-crops looked green and were refreshing to the eye after the arid peaks of Hong Kong and the opposite mountains of Kowloon. A tall pagoda* on a slight elevation attracted my attention, as it was the first of its kind I had ever seen, and I realised for the first time that I was actually in China proper, for at Hong Kong the European element is conspicuous, in the architecture especially. We now reached Whampoa, off which uninviting port several merchant vessels were at anchor, and afterwards passed two more tall pagodas, about 120 feet in height, both on small hillocks, and one slightly inclined, but not sufficiently so as to rival the Pisa tower. These pagodas are so far useful to navigators, inasmuch as they warn them of the presence of two sand-bars across the river in their immediate vicinity.

We could now descry in the distance the pagodas and walls of Canton, and the forest of masts belonging to the numerous junks lying off the city, whilst beyond the fortified height to our right rose the White Cloud Mountains, 1,200 feet above the river. The approaching visitor does not see much of the actual city from the deck of a passing steamer, as the buildings of the interior, being low, are concealed by the double walls on the river-front, whilst shabby suburbs, built principally on piles, intervene again between the outermost walls and river-side ; besides on the river are innumerable floating craft, mostly sampans, -\ apparently in inextricable confusion, but in reality arranged in blocks with lanes left between them, thoroughfares for the moving boats. These sampans are the homes of that amphibious class of river-folk common to all towns in the south of China, but exceptionally multitudinous at Canton.

In the daytime these boats are tenanted mostly by women and children, and a few old people of both sexes, the male portion of the floating population being engaged on board the junks, and in the building-yards at Honam, on the opposite side of the river, or in the boat-building establishments down the Fatee creek. Passing a small island on which were the remains of an old fort, called now the Dutch Folly, and numerous highly decorated river barges, regular Noah's Arks,J called flower-boats, the steamer finally came to anchor in a comparatively open space of water opposite the Custom-house — a Chinese establishment, but managed by English officers — and near the open space called the Shameen, set apart as the site for the English and French factories. I and my Chinese boy, with the baggage, were soon transferred to the shore, where I entered a chair carried by two stout coolies, whilst eight other half-naked coolies seized upon aud divided my traps, and slinging them on bamboos followed in rear, and we went at a swinging-trot through the intricate narrow streets of the western suburbs.

At first I was quite bewildered at the novelty, and especially at being alone and apparently unprotected in the crowded streets of a town never friendly to foreigners, and as yet I had not seen any sign of the foreign occupation ; but I soon passed a patrol of mounted military police armed with cutlasses and revolvers, and on reaching the western gate, which leads into the city, noticed that it was occupied by English soldiers, and that the muzzles of some brass 24-pr. howitzers looked ominously down the principal thoroughfare. Beyond the gate we passed through the north-western quarter * The pagodas near Whampoa, Pa-chow and Check-kong, were erected a.d. 1573. f Sha-Teng and Ma-Leng-Teng are the gondolas of Canton. J Wang-Lau or Fa-shun, floating restaurants. ofthe city, the Tartar quarter; this was nearly deserted, and in a ruined condition.

Another ten minutes brought us across some open ground by the north gate, a picturesque edifice and occupied by French Marines, to a palisaded gate, with a sepoy guard at the foot of the Canton heights, from a battery on the summit of which waved side by side from two flagstaffs the Tricolour and Union Jack. Canton, as most of my readers will remember, was taken by the combined French and English military and naval forces on the 29th of December 1857; so when I arrived the city had been occupied by the Allies for nearly three years, and consequently the inhabitants had got quite accustomed to the presence of the white devils, and their sole idea appeared to consist iu pillaging the Egyptians, in other words, to make as much money as possible out of their foreign invaders, in which they certainly succeeded, indeed so much so that the evacuation must have been looked upon as unwelcome by many of the principal tradesmen.

Colonel Fisher has given such a full and accurate account of the occupation of Canton in his interesting volume,* that I may safely refer to it all those who wish to know about the government of the city by the Allied Commissioners during the time that the city was in our hands. I may, however, shortly describe our garrison at Canton, and its distribution such as I found it in September 1860, in order to give an idea of our small community. The enceinte of high wall and broad rampart which surrounds Canton, as is usual in most Chinese fortified towns, includes some rather high ground, forming portions of an outlying spur of the White Cloud range of hills. This plateau is broken up by several detached summits, on which batteries were planted commanding the town; but these heights are themselves commanded by higher ground, outside the walls, on which formerly some Chinese forts stood.