Travels in Egypt, Arabia, Petraea and the Holy Land

Front matter

■ ilun-mJ TRAVELS IS EGYPT, ARABIA PETRÆA, AND THE HOLY LAND. BY THE REV. STEPHEN OLIN, D.D., PRESIDENT OF THE WESLEYAN UNIVERSITY. WITH TWELVE ILLUSTRATIONS ON STEEL. IN TWO VOLUMES. VOL. II. N E W-Y O R K • HARPER & BROTHERS, 82 CLIFF-STREET. 18 4*3. Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1843, by Harper & Brothers, In the Clerk's Office ofthe Southern District of New-York. CON.TENTS OP THE SECOND VOLUME.

CHAPTFR I. Petra. — Preliminary Examination.— Mountains about Petra. — The Approach to the City.— Geological Appearances.— Terraces on Mount Hor. —Wady Mousa.— The Valley.— The surrounding Cliffs.— River.— Ruins. — The House of Pharaoh. — Triumphal Arch. — Ruined Temple. — Fallen Columns. — Other Ruins. — Private Residences. — Completeness of the Desolation — Causes. — Extent of the Site. — Tombs and Temples excavated in the Mountains. — Their- Situation and immense Number. — Approaches to them. — Their various Dimensions and Forms. — Architectural Ornaments. — Exquisite and various Colours of the Mountain exhibited in the Excavations and Ornaments. — A Tomb in Wady Syke. — Difficulty of Description. — Mr. Roberts, an English Artist. — Delicate Texture of the Petra Sandstone. — Our Camp in the Ancient Forum. — Bridge. — Colonnade. — Paved Way. — Ruins West of the Forum. — Reservoir. — Excavations in the Eastern Cliff. — Brief Notices of several Tombs. — Sarcophagi. — Great Elevation of the Tombs. — Ruined Staircases. — Aqueducts. — Magnificent Trees. — An Ancient Reservoir. — Unique Excavation. — Descent into an interesting Ravine. — Doric Tomb. — Stairs and Terrace.— Beautiful Decorations of the Interior ofa Tomb or Temple. — Fluted Columns, Cornice, &c. — Desecration. — Another large Tomb with broken Statues. — Massive Wall across the Ravine. — A Rostrum. — Conduit. — Excavations in the Northern Barrier. — Canal in the Eastern Mountain. — Tomb with a Latin Inscription. — Corinthian Tomb. — Splendid Front. — Interior. — Peculiar Style of the adjoining Fa<;ade. — Fine Situation. — Tomb or Temple in Wady Syke. — Ruined Arches. — Splendid Colouring. — Ancient Theatre. — Dimensions. — Good Preservation. — Strange Situation.— Wady Syke. — Its Dimensions and General Features.— Height of the Cliffs. — Luxuriant Vegetation. — The Treasury of Pharaon. — Splendid Facjade. — The Interior. — Steps in the Cliff. — Various Aspects of this Edifice as seen from the Syke. — Bedouin Tradition. — Fresh Appearance and delicate Carving of Pharaoh's Treasury. — Farther Notices of the Syke. — Pavement. — Canal. — Earthen Pipes. — The Triumphal Arch. — Its Height and Object. — Ascent ofthe Cliff. — Excavations on the Summit. — Gardens. — Tombs East of the Syke. — Truncated Obelisks. — Three CONTENTS.

Pyramidal Tombs.— Tomb of the Couchant Lions. — Bedouin Huts. — Beautiful Sight. — Flocks and Herds. — Tillage. — New and interesting Route.— Appearance of the Mountain. — Ravine North ofthe Syke. — Aqueduct. — Arched Bridge. — Visit to the Temple of El Deir. — The As cent of the Mountain. — Esplanade. — Description of the Temple. — Ita Front. — The Interior. — Probable Uses. — Desecration. — Rain. — Petra not yet fully explored.— Importance and probable Facility of farther Investi gations. — The Alouins and their Deportment. — Personal Incidents. — Wa dy Mousa verdant.— Partridges.— Eagles.— Early Origin, Commerce, and Decline of Petra. — Rediscovered by Burckhardt. — Illness in the Desert Page 13

Chapter II

Departure from Petra. — A long Walk. — Mohammedan Honesty.— Mount Hor. — The Tomb of Aaron. — Sheik of Jebel Haroun. — Death of Aaron. — Return to Wady Araba. — Descent towards the North. — Martial Display. — Mount Seir. — Early Civilization of Edom. — Present State of this Country. — Prophecies concerning Edom. — Their Fulfilment. — Erroneous Interpretation. — Edom not forbidden to Travellers. — The People did not live in Caves. — Ain Muridah. — Trees in Arabia Petræa. — The Acacia. — Wady Fikara. — Mountain. — Cadesh Bamea. — Its probable Situation. — Battle with the Canaanites at Hormah. — Wandfjrings of the Israelites in the Desert. — Ascent of the Mountain. — Old Towers. — Flowers. — Wady Kouroup. — Camels. — Bedouin Tents. — Curious Appearance. — Tomb and Mosque. — Ancient Wells. — Another Bedouin Encampment. — Another — Description of it. — Delicacies. — Spinning Apparatus. — Ruins. — Mountains of Judah. — Signs of Former Tillage. — * Landmarks. — Camp in Wady Carmel. — Ruins of the Ancient Carmel. — Historical Recollections. — David and Abigail. — More Ancient Ruins. — Vineyards. — Approach to Hebron 50

Chapter III

The Environs of Hebron. — Lodgings. — Our Alouin Guides. — Their Indolence and Meanness. — Sheik Salim. — His Inefficiency and Disappointment. — Parting with the Bedouins. — Travelling on Darnels. — My Dromedary. — Camel's Furniture. — Oriental Style. — Description ofthe Camel. — Its Habits. — Waywardness and Powers of Endurance. — Camel and Dromedary. — Adaptation to the Desert. — Tolerance of Hunger and Thirst. — Description of Hebron. — Bazar. — Mosques. — Tombs of the Patriarchs. — Ancient Church. — Interview with a Mohammedan Priest at the great Mosque. — Bigotryof Schoolboys. — Probable Identity of the great Mosque with the Tombs of the Patriarchs. — S-jpulchre of Abner. — Christians in Hebron. — The Jews. — Visit to the Rabbi. — Condition of these People in Hebron. — Visit to the Synagogues. — Public Worship.— Manuscript Pentateuch. — Antiquities of Hebron. — The great Mosque. — Cisterns. — Inter- CONTENTS.

V •asting Sight.— Collecting ofthe Flocks.— History of Hebron.— Population. — Insurrections. — Sack of the Town by the Egyptians. — Manufactures. — Commerce. — Flourishing Agriculture. — Journey from Hebron to Beth lehem. — The Roads. — Cultivation. — Ruins. — The Ancient Route.—Tim ber. — Female Wood-cutters.— Ruins. — Military Works. — Reservoirs. — The Pools of Solomon. — Description of them.— Aqueduct. — Probable An tiquity of these Monuments. — Solomon's Gardens. — Saracen Fortress. — Arrival at Bethlehem. — Serious Accident. — Entrance ofthe Convent. — Description of Bethlehem. — Population. — Environs. — Flourishing Ag riculture. — Insecurity of this Neighbourhood. — The Trinket Trade. — Convent of the Nativity.— The Church of Helena. — Greek and Armenian Chapels. — Grotto of the Nativity. — The Manger.— Altar of the Magi. — Religious Worship. — Irreverence. — Altar of the Innocents. — St. Jerome's Cell. — Tomb of Eusebius. — Remains of the Martyrs. — Occupants of the Convent.-— David's Well. — Valley of the Shepherds. — Monkish Tra ditions. — Their Value. — Place of the Nativity. — Reflections. — Tomb of Rachel. — Convent of St. Elias. — Aspect of this Region. — Valley of Rephaim. — Arrival in Jerusalem Page 70

Chapter IV

Personal Matters. — Illness. — Reception by the American Missionaries. — Rev. Messrs. Lanneau and Sherman. — Character of the Missionaries. — Favourable Impressions on Travellers. — Rev. Mr. Nicolayson. — American Friends. — Kind Attentions. — Ibrahim. — Holy Week. — Native Christians. — Ceremonies in the Church of the Sepulchre. — Impious Mummeries. — Another Scene. — The Holy Fire. — Protestant Worship. — A memorable Sacrament on Mount Zion. — My first Walk to the Mount of Olives. — Impressions and Reflections. — View from the Summit. — Olive-trees. — The Church of the Ascension. — Scandalous Transaction. — French Influence. — Demolition of the Armenian Convent by the Latin Monks. — The Garden of Gethsemane. — Its Identity. — Ancient Olive-trees. — Situation of the Garden. — Brook of Cedron. — Mohammedan Cemetery. — Appearance and Employments of the People resorting there. — Return into the City. — Walk around the Walls. — Situation of Jerusa- [em. — The Hill Country.— Environs.— St. Stephen's Gate. — Wall of the Haram. — Interesting Remains of Solomon's Temple. — Turkish Repairs. — The Valley of Jehoshaphat.— Massive Stones.— Mount Ophel. — The southern Wall of the City.— Termination of the Aqueduct from Solomon's Pools.— Valley of the Cheesemongers.— Mount Zion.— Valley of the Son of Hinnom.— Western Side of the City. — Valley of Gihon.— The Damascus Gate— The North Side ofthe City.— Reservoir— Return to St. Stephen's Gate.— The present Walls of Jerusalem.— Their Age, Materials, Height, Workmanship, &c— Gate of St. Stephen.— Damascus Gate.— Jaffa Gate.— Zion Gate. — Circumference of the City. — Its ancient Dimensions.— Promenade upon the Walls.— Jerusalem as a Military A2 VI CONTENTS.

Position.— The Mountains about the City.— View of the City from the Convent of St. Elias.— View from the Mount of Olives.— Aspect of the different Quarters of the City.— Aspect of its Environs— Interior of Jeru salem.—Changes of Surface.— Great Accumulations.— Mount Zion with in the Walls.— Mount Moriah— Site of the Temple.— Bezetha.— Mount Akra.— Streets of Jerusalem— Arches.— Covered Bazars— Pavements and Sidewalks.— Ancient Flagstones.— Houses.— Their Plan and Con struction.— Cisterns.— Building Materials.— Dilapidations.— Poverty of the People.— Decent Costume.— Trade with the Pilgrims.—Manufac tures.—Little Wealth or Capital Page 103

Chapter V

Interesting Objects outside of the Walls. — Reservoir by St. Stephen's Gate. — Place of St. Stephen's Martyidom.— Bridge over Cedron. — Grotto of the Virgin.— Dimensions.— Ornaments — Portrait of Mary.— Tombs of Joseph and Anna. — Crowd of Devotees. — Absalom's Pillar. — Tomb of Jehoshaphat. — Tomb of St. James. — Tomb of Zacharias.— Authenticity of these Monuments. — Their peculiar Style. — A Conjecture. — Extensive Jewish Cemetery on Olivet. — Style of their Monuments. — The Jews. — Bridge. — Fountain of the Virgin. — Ebb and Flow of this Fountain. — Subterranean Passage. — Valley of Jehoshaphat. — Village of Siloam. — Mount of Offence. — Pool of Siloam. — The Siloam of the Bible and Josephus. — Its Connexion with the Fountain of the Virgin, and with the Temple. — Hezekiah's Aqueduct. — Pool of Bethesda. — Not identical with the Fountain of the Virgin, but probably with Siloam. — Place of Isaiah's Martyrdom. — Credulity of Mohammedans. — Well of Nehemiah. — Tradition. — En-rogel. — Expansion of the Valley. — King's Dale. — Course of the ancient Wall. — Aceldama. — Its Identity. — Ancient Jewish Tombs. — Tombs ofthe Prophets. — Mount Zion. — Valley of Hinnom. — Tophet. — Country House of Caiaphas. — Hill of Evil Counsel. — Southern Slope of Zion. — Vestiges ofthe ancient Wall. — Wheat Fields. — Employments of Females. — Sepulchre of David. — Jewesses. — Church. — " Upper Room." — House of Mary. — Palace of Caiaphas. — Christian Cemeteries on Mount Zion. — American. — Latin. — Grave ofa Countryman. — Greek and Armenian Cemeteries. — Zion without the Walls. — Lower Pool of Gihon.— Ancient Reservoir. — Valley of Gihon. — Aqueduct from Solomon's Pools. — Upper Pool.— Fountain of Gihon. — Turkish Cemetery. — Conduit. — Stopping of the Fountains by Hezekiah.— The Fullers' Field.— Pool of Hezekiah. — Pool of Bathsheba. — Scarcity of Water about Jerusalem. — Artificial Reservoirs. — Private Cisterns. — Great Number of ancient Cisterns. — Paucity of Streams and Springs in the Land of Judah. — Scripture Allusions. — The Routes of Armies. — Scene of John's Ministry. — Of Christ's. — Grotto of Jeremiah. — Mohammedan Burying-ground. — The Damascus Road. — Olive-trees and Tillage. — Valley of Jehoshaphat north of the City. — Vestiges of the ancient Wall. — Old Cisterns. — Tombs of the Kings. — Description. — The Approach. — The Interior. — Ornaments. — Style of Architecture.— Tombs of the Judges CONTENTS.

VII

Chapter VI

Excursion to Jericho and the Dead Sea.— Procession of the Pilgrims to Jordan. — Military Escort. — The Governor of Jerusalem and his Suite.— Motley Crowd before St. Stephen's Gate. — Beggars. —View from the Bethany Road.— The Route to Bethany.— Road through the Mountains. — Khan. — Field of Blood. — Ruins. — Ancient Aqueduct. — View of the Plain of Jordan.— Descent of the Mountain.— Scene of the Temptation. — Mount Quarantina.— Ruined Town. — Encampment by Jericho.— Ibrahim.— A Disappointment.— Turkish Justice.— Robberies. — Story of the Good Samaritan.— A Walk over the Plain.— Aqueducts.— The Plain.— System of Irrigation. — Products of the Plain.— Its ancient Fertility. — Saracen Era.— Unpleasant Meeting.— Fountain of Elisha.— Its Water. — Ruins near the Fountain. — Woodland. — The Dom. — The Zockum — Myrobalanum. — Nightshade. — Apples of Sodom. — Ancient Products of the Plain. — Its present Products and Capabilities. — Our Camp. — Representatives of many Nations there. — Cossacs, Armenians, &c. — Modes of Travelling. — Customs and Costumes. — Night Scene. — Walks through the Camp after Midnight. — Reflections. — Early Departure for the Jordan. — Encounter with the returning Procession. — Trophies. — Religious Ceremonies at the River. — Baptism of Trinkets. — Grave-clothes, &c. — Equestrian Fetes. — Modem Jericho. — Rihah. — Frail Bulwark. — House of Zacheus. — The Sycamore. — The Bazar, &c. — Site of ancient Jericho. — Probable Changes. — The Plain of Jericho. — Ruins. — Route to the Jordan. — The second Bank. — The lower Plain. — Banks of the Jordan. — Trees and Shrubs. — The River — Scene of our Lord's Baptism. — El Ghor. — Tributaries of the Jordan. — Its Inundations. — The Jordan of the Bible. — Transit of the River by Joshua. — Gilgal. — Pisgah. — The Plain of Moab. — Climate. — Ride to the Dead Sea. — Incidents. — Aspect of the Plain. — A Bath in the Sea. — The Peculiarities of the Water. — Fatal to Animal and Vegetable Life. — Drift-wood. — Birds fly over the Sea. — Description ofthe Sea. — The surrounding Mountains. — Appearance of the Sea from the Plain of Jericho. — Its Dimensions and Depth. — Great Evaporation. — Its Depression below the Mediterranean. — Ford. — Scripture Names. — Asphaltum. — Situation and Destruction of the Cities of the Plain. — Hypothesis on this Subject. — Fœtid Stone. — Nitre. — Sulphur.— Salt.— Return to Jerusalem. — Birds. — Deer. — Aspect of the Mountains. —Difficulties of this Route. — Tomb of Moses. — Incompetence of our Guides.— An ancient Well. — The Mountains. — Approach to St. Saba. — Cedron. — Artificial Road. — Fatigues of the Day. — Arrival and Accommodations at the Convent.— Description of the Site and Convent.— The New and Old Churches. — Chapels.— Traditions of the Monastery.— Descent into the Ravine. — Defences. — History of the Convent.— A painful Incident.— Route to Bethlehem.— Obstacles to Tillage.— The Latin Monks.— A Storm.— Mohammedan Tyranny.— Personal Matters Page CONTENTS.

VIII

Chapter VII

Visit to the Haram.— Interesting Remains of an ancient Bridge.— Its Style and probable Antiquity.— Remains of the Temple of Solomon. — Description by Josephus. — Destruction by the Romans. — Extent of these Remains. — Jews' Place of Prayer. — Limit of the Haram on the North. — Its Form and Dimensions.— Change in Form accounted for by Josephus.— The great Reservoir north of the Haram not Bethesda, but a military Work.— The Sheep Gate.— Prevalent Errors with regard to the Ruins of the Temple. — Ruins of the Bridge and Temple long known, though not mentioned by Travellers. — Our Saviour's Prophecy. — Saracen Walls. — Interior of the Haram inaccessible. — Seen by Dr. Richardson and Mr. Catherwood. — Subterranean Colonnade and Apartments. — View of the Haram from Mount Zion. — Mosque of Omar. — Description of it. — Its Interior. — Its great Splendour and Sanctity.— Mosque of El Aksa.— History of Mount Moriah. — The Citadel. — Massive ancient Tower. — Evidence of its Jewish Origin. — The Hippicus of Josephus. — Question with regard to the Site of Calvary and the Sepulchre.— Church of the Sepulchre. — Incredulity of Protestants. — My own Impressions. — Argument against the Identity of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre derived from Josephus. — His Account of the ancient Walls of Jerusalem. — As commonly understood, incompatible with the Claims of the modem Calvary. — Flaw in this Argument. — Another Hypothesis. — Farther Notices of the ancient Topography from Josephus. — Position of the Gate Genneth probably ascertained. — The Site of the Church of the Sepulchre outside of the second Wall.— Objection considered. — Pool of Hezekiah. — Golgotha of the Evangelists. — The traditionary Argument. — Its great Strength. — Historical Testimony. — Early Return of Christians to Jerusalem after its Ruin by Titus. — Church of Helena. — The Finding of the Cross. — The Monkish Traditions. — Their Influence upon this Question. — Church of the Sepulchre. — Importance of this Subject. — Evils of Scepticism. — Teachings of Holy Places. — Description of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. — Trinket Trade. — Various Objects in the Interior. — The Sepulchre. — The Copts and their Chapel. — Greek Chapel and Worship. — Calvary. — Chapels of Helena and of the Finding of the Cross. — Rivalry of the Christian Sects. — Police. — Doubtful Custom. — The Latin Convent. — Monks of the Terra Santa. — Catholics of Jerusalem. — Armenians and their Convent.— Their Wealth. — Rich Pilgrims.— The Church of the Convent. — Peculiar and Splendid Ornaments. — Crowds of Pilgrims. — The Greeks in Jerusalem. — Their Convents. — The Jews. — Their Quarter. — Native and immigrant Jews. — Their Condition. — Visit to then- Synagogues. — Their Worship. — Their Learning. — Misdirection of Alms. — Character, Dress, and Appearance of the Jews. — Oppressions. — Population of Jerusalem. — English Mission. — Bishop of Jerusalem. — The American Mission. — Its slight Success. — Obstacles and Prospects. — A

Piotestant Anchorite. — A heroic Female. — Visit to Bethany. — Ruinous CONTENTS.

IX Tower.— Tomb of Lazarus.— The Family of Lazarus.— The Village- Its Identity. — Site and Remains of Bethpage. — The Rural Population. — Scanty Means of Subsistence in and about Jerusalem. — Articles of Food. — Prices. — Agriculture. — Wages.— Taxes . . . Page 257

Chapter VIII

Journey to Beyrout. — Departure from Jerusalem. — Reflections. — Last View from Mount Scopus.— Villages.— Ruined Tower.— Wheat-fields.— Khan. — Ancient Quarry. — Vestiges of ancient Tillage. — Village of Beer. — Ruins. — Fountain. — Rain. — Climate of Judea. — The Rainy Season. — The Summer.— Aspect of the Country. — Bethel— Einbroot. — Former Cultivation. — New Plantations. — Singil. — Interesting Ravine. — Terraces. — Ruins. — Fountain. — Khan and Fountain of Leben. — Fruitful Plain. — Our Guides. — Village. — Several Villages. — Ainboos. — Ovita. — Howara. — Extensive Valley. — Good Husbandry. — Guards at Night. — Syrian Peasants. — Populousness of this Region. — Wady Sahl. — Mount Ebal. — Mount Gerizim. — Vale of Nablous. — Scripture Notices. — A beautiful Fountain. — Ancient Tombs under Mount Ebal. — Arrival at Nablous. — Lepers. — A Guide. — Ascent of Mount Gerizim. — Ancient Road. — Mohammedan Tomb. — Ruins on the Northeast Summit. — Citadel. — Cistern. — Ruins of the Southern Summit. — Vast Quadrangle. — Octagonal Edifice. — Ancient Pavement. — Ruined City. — Holy Places. — Cisterns. — Graves. — View from the Top of Gerizim. — Mount Ebal. — Samaritans. — Their Worship. — Their History. — Conjecture. — Descent from the Mountain. — Enchanting View. — Gardens. — Mountain Stream. — Jacob's Well. — Its Identity. — Narrative of the Evangelist. — Objections considered. — Tomb of Joseph. — Visit to the Samaritans? — Jewish Guide and Synagogue. — Samaritan Synagogue. — Chief Rabbi. — Ancient Copy of the Scriptures. — Conversation. — Samaritans and Jews in Nablous. — The present City. — Bazar. — Manufactures. — Commerce. — Population. — Christians. — Ride to Sebaste. — Valley below Nablous. — Exuberant Fertility. — Springs. — Aqueduct. — Mills. — The Road. — Cornfields and Villages. — The Hill of Samaria. — Petty Disappointments. — Survey of Sebaste. — Mohammedan Bigotry. — Ancient Wall. — Mosque. — Ancient Colonnade. — Ruinous Pile. — Ascent and Summit of the Mountain. — Noble View.— Christian Boy in Trouble. — Ancient Temple. — The Church of John the Baptist.— Private Entrance. — Interior of the Edifice. — Military Defences. — Visit to the Colonnade in the Valley north of Sebaste. — Descent from the Hill.— Traces of the Old Wall. — Strength of this Position. — Form, Extent, and probable Objects the Colonnade. — History of Samaria. — Route to Jennin.— Ascent of the Mountain. — View. — Jibba. — Sannour. — Cultivated Fields. — Jennin. — News —Situation of Jennin.— Signs of Prosperity.— Trees.— Gardens. — Fountain.— Good Ruler.— Ginea.— The Plain of Esdraelon.— Extensive Tillage.— Ploughs and Oxen.— Soil ofthe Plain.— Productions. — Cotton. — Situation of the Villages.— Waste Fields.— Valleys and Mountains X CONTENTS. *3ast of Esdraelon. — Gilboa. — Several Villages and Fountains. — Extent of the Plain of Esdraelon. — Its great Fertility. — Its Importance in a Military Point of View. — Mount Carmel. — Appearance of Mount Tabor. — Trees. — Ruins. —

Bedouins and their Flocks. — Dance. — North Side of Tabor. — Arrival at the Khan. — Disappointment. — Delay. — Route to Tiberias. — The Plain. — Its spontaneous Products. — Labah. — Soil of the Plain. — Its general Aspect. — Mount of Beatitudes. — Flourishing Agriculture. — The Sea of Galilœ. — Splendid View. — Descent to Tiberias . .

Page 327

Chapter IX

The City of Tibenas.— Early Visiters— Fallen Walls of the Town— Earthquake in 1837. — Desolation. — The Mosques. — The Castle. — Walls. — Area. — Towers. — Environs. — The Jews' Quarter.— Visit to their Synagogues. — Jewesses. — A polite Rabbi. — Schools. — College. — Number and Condition of the Jews. — The Christians. — House of St. Peter. — Situation and Remains of the ancient City. — Hot Springs. — Turkish Baths. — Character of these Waters. — Bath in the Sea of Tiberias. — Ancient Edifice. — Tombs in the Base of the Mountain. — Ascent to the Acropolis. — Ruins. — Citadel.— Wells. — Probable Origin of these Works. — View from the Acropolis.— The Sea of Tiberias.— Appearance of the Shore. — Region east of the Sea. — Mount Hermon. — Current through the Sea. — Fishingboats. — Fish. — History of Tiberias. — Route to Safet. — Excessive Heat. — Cemetery. — Reservoirs on the Seashore. — Garden. — The Road. — Mejdal. — Magdala. — Bad Climate. — The Plain Genesareth. — Cultivation. — Mills. — Form of the Plain. — Its Identity with the Land of Genesareth. — Wady Hymam. — Capernaum. — Bethsaida and Chorazin. — Their proba- Dle Sites. — Ascent ofthe Mountain towards Safet. — Interesting Ruins of a Stronghold. — Interesting and various Appearance of the Sea of Tiberias. — The Region beyond. — The Land of Genesareth. — Syrian Horses. — Encampment in a Ravine. — Fountains. — Palm and Olive Trees. — Measure of Distance. — Trials of Patience. — Acbala. — Rural Beauty. — Bees. — Female Curiosity. — Ruins. — Arrival at Safet. — Its Situation. — The Citadel. — Mohammedan Quarter. — The Bazar. — Subterranean Streets. — Trade. — Houses and Streets.— The Jews. — Their Appearance and Condition. — Grotesque Costumes. — Persecution of the Jews. — Population of Safet. — The Earthquake in 1837. — Holy Cities of Palestine. — Cemetery near Safet. — Jewish Schools. — Commerce. — View from Safet. — Route to Tyre. — Anzeta. — Cadicha. — A large Plain. — Numerous Herds. —Mount Maconi. — Volcanic Remains. — Zish. — Wady Zish. — Vineyards. — A Cottage. — Signs of increasing Fertility. — Woodland. — Ruins. — Sarcophagi. — Village of Yaroun. — Splendid Remains of a Church. — Ancient Well — Reservoir. — Christian Population. — Their humble Church. — Ruins west of the Village. — Bint el Jebbail. — Appearances of Comfort and Prosperity. — Heretics. — The Weather. — Aspect of the Country. — Trees.— Koroun. — Beithoni. — Fortress of Tibinin, — Vii- CONTENTS.

XI lage.— Khan.— Sarcophagi.— The Scenery.— View of the Plain of Phœ nice. — Incompetent Guides. — The Route.— Massive Ruins. — Saracen Aqueduct.— Ancient Paths.— Encamp in the Plains of Tyre.— Digression. — Observations on the Soil of Palestine. — Erroneous Views.— Causes of Sterility. — Decay of Terraces.— Destruction of Wood.— Bad Tillage. — Soil of the Hill Country.— The Olive.— Fruits used as Food.— Their Val ue.—The Mountains of Ephraim.— The Culture of Wheat.— Esdraelon.— Colonies in Palestine.— The Restoration of the Jews.— The only prac ticable Plan. — Peculiar Features of Palestine.— Destitution of Timber ; of Enclosures and rural Cottages ; of Roads.— Costumes. — Present Popu lation. — Their Character and Condition. — Influence of Government. — Other Obstacles to Improvement 391

Chapter X

Phœnice. — Cisterns of Solomon. — Form and Dimensions. — The ancient Aqueduct to Tyre. — Stalactites. — Mills. — Abundance of Water. — Its Source. — Road to Sur. — Situation of the Town. — Origin of the Isthmus. — Approach to Sur. — American Consulate. — Circuit of the ancient City made in a Boat. — The present Harbour. — Ancient sea Wall. — Great Number of ancient Columns. — Ridge of Rocks before the Harbour. — Remains of the old Wall. — Excavation. — Grandeur of ancient Tyre. — Ruins of a Church. — Harbour and Walls of Sur. — Population and Wretchedness. — Trade. — Honours of a Consul. — Route to Sidon. — View of Sur. — Extent and Fertility of the Plain of Phœnice. — A River. — Singular Monument. — Sepulchres. — Ruins. — Villages. — Sarepta. — Sea Bath. — Seat ofthe French Consul. — Gardens. — Rumours of the Plague. — Farming. — Saida. — Its Situation. — Luxuriant Gardens in the Environs. — Great Variety of Trees. — Appearance ofthe City. — Quarantine. — The Town. — Ancient Harbour and Pier. — Bridge. — Excavations and Staircases. — Revival and Decline of Saida. — Population. — Route to Beyrout. — River and Bridge. — Cultivation. — Mountain Pass. — Jonah's Tomb. — Unique Ornament. — Khan. — Convent. — A Monk. — Field of Sarcophagi. — The Seacoast. — Forests of Mulberry-trees. — Grove of Pine-trees. — Luxuriant Gardens. — The Hotels of Beyrout. — Non-arrival of the Steamer.— Plague at Damascus. — Illness. — American Mission and Missionaries. — Lodgings in the Suburbs.— Notice of Beyrout.— Harbour.— Walls.— Population and Business. — Mount Lebanon. — Cocooneries. — Management of the Mulberry-tree. — Superstition ofthe Mohammedans.— Evil Eye.— Suburban Gardens and Houses. — Plain and Rivers. — Mount Lebanon. — Its great Elevation and Appearance. — Terraces. — Mountain Population.— Snows on Lebanon. — The Cedars of Lebanon. — History of Beyrout. — Revived Trade.— Bombardment by the Allies CONTENTS.

Chapter XI

Voyage from Beyrout to Smyrna. — Fellow-passengers. — The Cadi of Jemsalem and his Harem. — Oriental Manners. — The Seacoast of Asia Minor. — Islands. — A Turkish Governor on board. — Habits of the Cadi and Pacha. — The Grumbling Race. — Arrival at Smyrna. — Grievous Disappointment. — Quarantine. — The Seri Pervas. — The allied Fleets. — Splendid Pageant. — Quarters on Shore. — Visit from the Missionaries. — Embarcation. — Report of the Plague. — Quarantine in Prospect. — Effect of Evil Tidings on the Orientals and on the Franks. — Voyage to Stamboul. — Lodgings in Pera. —The American Mission. — Illness. — Friends in Need. — Departure for Vienna. — Co-voyagers. — The Black Sea. — Mouths ofthe Danube. — Aspect ofthe Shore. — Unhealthiness of the Region. — The Navigation ofthe Danube.— The Steamboats. — Climate. — Turkish Officer. — Fruits of Reform. — The new Costume. — A Circassian Lady. — Her Price. — Her Suite. — A Prescription for Fever. — Quarantine at Orsova. — Sublime Scenery. — Ancient Road. — Christianity on the Frontiers of Hungary. — Belgrade and Semlin. — Hungarians. — Pest. — Arrival in Vienna. — Severe Illness. — Kindness of Friends. — Grinsing. — Mr. and Mrs. Shauffler.— Journey to Munich.— Through Switzerland to Paris.— The English Channel. — Stay in London. — Voyage across the Atlantic. .

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Chapter I

Petra. — Preliminary Examination. — Mountains about Petra. — The Approach to the City. — Geological Appearances. — Terraces on Mount Hor. — Wady Mousa. — The Valley. — The surrounding Cliffs. — River. — Ruins. — The House of Pharaoh. — Triumphal Arch. — Ruined Temple. — Fallen Columns. — Other Ruins. — Private Residences. — Completeness of the Desolation — Causes. — Extent ofthe Site. — Tombs and Temples excavated in the Mountains. — Their Situation and immense Number. — Approaches to them. — Their various Dimensions and Forms. — Architectural Ornaments. — Exquisite and various Colours of the Mountain exhibited in the Excavations and Ornaments.— A Tomb in Wady Syke. — Difficulty of Description. — Mr. Roberts, an English Artist. — Delicate Texture of the Petra Sandstone. — Our Camp in the Ancient Forum. — Bridge. — Colonnade. — Paved Way. — Ruins West of the Forum. — Reservoir. — Excavations in the Eastern Cliff. — Brief Notices of several Tombs. — Sarcophagi. — Great Elevation of the Tombs.— Ruined Staircases. — Aqueducts. — * Magnificent Trees. — An Ancient Reservoir. — Unique Excavation. — Descent into an interesting Ravine. — Doric Tomb. — Stairs and Terrace. — * Beautiful Decorations of the Interior ofa Tomb or Temple. — Fluted Columns, Cornice, &c. — Desecration. — Another large Tomb with broken Statues. — Massive Wall across the Ravine, — A Rostrum. — Conduit. — * Excavations in the Northern Barrier. — Canal in the Eastern Mountain. with a Latin Inscription. — Corinthian Tomb. — Splendid Front. —Interior. — Peculiar Style of the adjoining Facade.— Fine Situation. — Tomb or Temple in Wady Syke. — Ruined Arches. — Splendid Colouring. —Ancient Theatre. — Dimensions. — Good Preservation. — Strange Situation. — Wady Syke. — Its Dimensions and General Features. — Height of the Cliffs. — Luxuriant Vegetation. — The Treasury of Pharaoh. — Splendid Facade. — The Interior. — Steps in the Cliff — Various Aspects of this Edifice as seen from the Syke. — Bedouin Tradition.— Fresh Appearance and delicate Carving of Pharaoh's Treasury. — Farther Notices of the Syke. — Pavement. — Canal. — Earthen Pipes. — The Triumphal Arch. — Its Height and Object. — Ascent ofthe Cliff. — Excavations on the Summit. — Gardens. — Tombs East of the Syke. — Truncated Obelisks. — Three Vol. II,— B ARRIVAL AT PETRA.