Narrative of the Wreck of the 'Favourite' on the Island of Desolation: detailing the adventures, sufferings and privations of J. Nunn, an historical account of the Island, and its whale and seal fisheries. Edited by W. B. Clarke

Front matter

THE ROYAL SOVEREIGN CHASED BY THE PIttATE.— Vide. p. 10. NARRATIVE OF THE WRECK OF THE "FAVORITE" ON THE ISLAND OF DESOLATION-. DETAILING TnE ADVENTURES, SUFFERINGS, AND PRIVATIONS OF JOHN NUJSsN; AN HISTORICAL ACCOUNT OF THF. ISLAND, AND ITS WnALE AND SFAL FISHERIES - WITH A CHART AND NUMEROUS WOOL ENGRAVINGS. EDITED BY W. 'B. CLARKE, M.D. LONDON : WILLIAM EDWARD PAINTER, 342, STRAND. 1850. IN TO Æjjr Era. % #. Inmkm, %.%,, RECTOR OF IIITCI1AM, AND PROFESSOR OF BOTANY IN TnE UNIVERSITY OF PAMBIUDCE, WHOSE ZEAL FOR SCIENCE AND ANXIETY TO IMPROVE TOE CONDITION OF THE WORKING CLASSES ARE TOO WELL KNOWN TO REQUIRE A COMMENT, ÆJiis IVorlt, WHICH AN ATTEMPT IS MADE TO FOLLOW HIS EXCELLENT EXAMPLE, IS DEDICATED, WITH MUCH ESTEEM AND RESPECT, %r\ tljc tEoitnr. PREFACE, a hedging expedition at Harwich, in connection with the Ipswich Mu seum, I met with John Nunn, who was formerly engaged in the South Sea whale and seal fisheries : he related many interesting facts pertaining to Kerguelen's Land, and the sealing and whaling operations conducted there.

Inde pendently of some of his accounts being peculiarly interesting, there are others of scientific impor tance, in a geographical point of view, as the island is scarcely known except to persons engaged in those occupations. Soon after my interview with John Nunn I applied to the Geographical Society for the perusal of a chart ; but nothing of the island way known there, nor could I learn where any satisfactory description was to be procured. At length I met with the chart published by Mr. Laurie, of Fleet street, January the 20th, 1849, which is acknow ledged to be the best extant, from which parts of the one attached to this work have been taken ; and many additions have been made to it on the

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. VIII west and south sides by Mr. James Lawrence, who was chief mate of the Royal Sovereign and had visited the island thrice before he was left there with Nunn and his shipmates. The parts laid down by him are from his own observations upon the coast, and which correspond with and confirm John Nunn's narrative. Many enterprising persons have sent ships upon sealing and whaling voyages ; but none, until Sir J. C. Boss visited this island, have thought of proceeding there to examine the country geologically. Yet from such examination it appears probable that results highly important to this country may originate. Upon perusing Sir J. C. Ross's discoveries in the Antartic regions, bis remarks upon the geological character of Kerguelen's Island, and the limited opportunities he had of thoroughly examining any other than its northern extremity — as the ships, whilst at the island, did notmove south of Christmas Harbour — I have thought it important that the observations of Messrs. Lawrence and Nunn should be published, as they refer to the existence of several good harbours not at present described, but which may be available to vessels sent there upon a voyage of discovery to ascertain the geological condition of the country, as coal exists in the island, but to what extent is not at present known. Captain Sir James Ross remarks — " Whethe

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. IX the coal be in sufficient abundance ever to be of commercial importance we had not the opportunity of ascertaining ; but at the present day, when steam vessels are traversing every portion of the ocean, it may not be unworthy a more extended examination : for in no situation would it be more desirable to have a coal depot than at this island, lying as it does immediately in the high road to all our Indian and Australasian colonies, abound ing with excellent harbours, and a convenient dis tance from the Capo of Good Hope." Captain Ross also observes — " The most re markable geological feature in the island is the occurrence of fossil wood and coal imbedded in igneous rocks : wood highly silicified in parts enclosed in basalt ; whilst the coal " crops out " in ravines closely in contact with superimposed amyg daloidal and porphyritic greenstone."

On the south side of Christmas Harbour coal is found in considerable abundance, in the basalt, or in the debris of the neighbourhood. A portion of the trunk of a large tree, seven feet in circumfe rence, much silicified, was dug from below the rock on the south side the harbour : inside the arched rock, fragments of fossil wood are found. By the side of the bay within the arched rock, thirty feet above the sea, is a bed of coal forty feet long and four feet thick, which has a slaty structure, with a fracture, like wood coal.

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. X A thin bed is also found on the north side of the harbour. At the top of Cumberland Bay, about six and a half miles up, is a crater-like hill about four hundred feet high, a little to the southward of which is a bed of coal ten feet long by about a foot in thickness : it " crops out " at the base of a hill by the side of a watercourse, and appears of the nature of Cannel coal. In a neighbouring hill south of this, about twenty yards up a " water run," is another bed of slaty coal, which burns well : this seam or bed appears also on the opposite side of the watercourse, and lies beneath a formation of amygdaloidal greenstone. Fragments of coal have been found in crossing the isthmus from the head of Cumberland Bay to the N.W. coast : it is therefore probable that a bed may be found amongst the rocks in that neighbourhood.

In a small bay called Coal Harbour, on the north side of Cumberland Bay, at no great distance from a watercourse, is a bed of a brittle, slaty, kind of shale, about a foot thick, and ten or twelve feet in length, beneath which it is probable that coal may be found. Since noticing the observations in Captain Sir J. C. Ross's voyage to the southern seas, I have been anxious to obtain all the information I pos sibly can relative to the harbours unnoticed in Mr. Laurie's chart, and Mr. James Lawrence has kindly given every assistance in completing the one here-

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. XI with published, to which many of the following observations refer. John Nunn's account proves that a great por tion of the west and south-west, as well as the south part of the island, which at present has not been scientifically examined and surveyed, was known to him and his companions ; that the coast line consists of lofty rocks, forming themselves into various bays, which had been visited by him and others engaged in the seal fishery under certain names ; that these bays are bounded on each side by lofty and precipitous rocks, and pass some way into the interior of the country, ending occasionally in a stony beach, upon which a run of water discharges itself from a lake or reservoir, or a gradually inclined ravine, along which a stream meanders, having received its waters from the neighbouring mountains : in other instances they terminate in a low pass very little above the level of the sea, and named by the sealers a " haul-over," from their being able to haul their boats over these from one bay to another.

Some of these bays are accessible to vessels of four hun dred or six hundred tons burden, and where they can obtain good anchorage : the sides of these present stony, shingly, or sandy beaches of various extent, some being very circumscribed, while others measure a mile or more. Nunn's account also proves that Cape Louis is

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. XII not upon the main island as it is represented to be, but upon a smaller one, named Saddle Island, about a mile and three-quarters in length, which is separated from the main island by a narrow strait called " Maryanne's Straits," and which is about thirty yards across at its north entrance, and two hundred and twenty at the south, a chart of which is given in this work. Vessels of any burden may enter this strait by the southern entrance with a fair wind, and find good holding ground and up wards of twenty fathoms water. The Frances, Captain J. Darney, lay here during part of 1818 19-20. The length of Saddle Island from N.W. to S.E. is about one mile and three quarters ; from N.E. to S.W., about one mile and a quarter. North-east of Saddle Island is a capacious bay, named by the sealers " Big Elephant Bay," on the borders of which are smaller ones : of these one is mentioned by Mr. Lawrence, under the name of " Thunder Harbour," on the east of the former bay.

The entrance to this is shoal, with not more than two and a half or three fathoms water on the bar. The breakers frequently extend from shore to shore in heavy gales from the N.W. ; and when the south-east winds blow, which is seldom the case, the ice proceeding from the interior of the country drives out and endangers a small vessel should she attempt to moor within the harbour for any length of time : it is occasionally very annoying to shal-

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. XIII lops that may enter to receive a cargo of blubber from the shore. On the S.E. of Saddle Island is a capacious bay called " Young William Harbour ; " but, from its being exposed to the prevailing N.E. winds, it is not advisable for ships to lie there. East of Cape Bourbon, about ten miles, is a bay called " Sprightly Bay :" although about eight miles in length, with twenty to thirty fathoms water in places, it is not safe for a large ship to anchor in, as the holding ground is insecure ; but a vessel of about forty tons may anchor here in safety when waiting a favourable opportunity to visit the neigh bouring beaches. About twelve miles from the last bay to the east is another, named " Rocky or Iceberg Bay," which is about eight or ten miles in length and about a mile in width. Ships usually lie just above some small islands on the larboard side of the en trance, from nine to twenty-four fathoms water, with a bottom of soft mud : the other part of the bay, being exposed to the N.W. wind, is not safe for a ship to moor in, as she might start her an chor in a heavy gale, and be driven ou the oppo site rocks.

The President, Emerald, Kingston, and other ships, have lied here during summer and winter. Table Bay, an adjacent one to the cast of this, is more intricate, as there are many rocks and small islands in it : it is a safe bay when

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. a ship is within ; and, where the mooring ground extends, the bay is about half a mile wide with seven or eight fathoms water. The Vansittart, Captain James Bennet, lied here all the winter and part of the summer. About ten miles to the west of Cape George is a large bay, named " Swain's Bay," with three arms or branches to it, where ships may lie during all seasons with good holding ground of green clay. There the ships Emily and Kingston wintered in safety : the depths vary from twenty to thirty fathoms, and in some places good anchorage is obtained in ten or twelve in stiff clay : here ves sels may lie as smoothly and securely as in a dock, and during the most violent gales they will obtain as good a birth as in Christmas Harbour : the breadth of this bay varies much — from a quarter of a mile to two miles.

Many parts of the east side of the island present a gradual inclination from the shore to the westward, so that an examining party could reach the higher parts in the interior : the Snowy Peak on the S.W. side of the island cannot be ascended to more than one-third of its height : it is con stantly covered with snow and ice. The country between Long Point and Shoalwater Bay, and between the former place and Shallop Harbour, is low and marshy, with large ponds in various places during all seasons.

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. XV North-east of Cape George are some capacious bays, the first of which is Greenland Bay : to this Cape George forms the south boundary : this is represented as being a fine bay, having lofty rocks on each side of it with good depth of water, good anchorage, and ample space to accommodate a fleet of ships if required, where they may lie secure from the effects of the most violent storms. Some way up, this bay contracts and again dilates into a somewhat basin-shaped expanse of water, at the northern side of which is the pass between the rocks called by the sealers a " haul-over," through which they can haul their boats into the neighbour ing bay, called " Royal Sound," which is one of the largest in the island. Beyond Royal Sound is another inlet, called " Shoalwater Bay :" N.E. of this, the coast, for some miles, becomes shingly and sandy, and the land is low and marshy until an approach is made upon Cape Digby.

Mr. Lawrence also mentions another " haul over," communicating between the extremity of the " Foundry Branch " of Hillsborough Bay, and the S.W. shore of the island at the place known to parts of his crew as " Iceberg Beach," across which a vessel lying in the former place could send its boats over this isthmus to the S.W. side of the island. Captain Sir J. C. Ross's party saw no land animals, and the only traces of there being any upon the island were the singular foot-prints of a pony

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. XVI or ass, about three inches in length and two and a half in breadth, having a small and deeper depression on each side and shaped like a horse shoe. The animal had probably been cast on shore from some wrecked vessel : its foot-prints were traced for some distance in the recently fallen snow in hopes of getting sight of it ; but the tracts were lost on reaching a large space of rocky ground which was free from snow. There is, however, abundance of food for cattle : two species of grass affording a nutritious fodder for goats, sheep, and pigs. Sheep landed from the ships throve on the grass and soon improved in their condition ; but became so shy that they were obliged to be shot when wanted for table : one evaded the most active sportsmen and was left there when the vessels departed. Sir J. C. Ross regrets he had not carried with him some useful animals from the Cape of Good Hope to have stocked the land.

My intention has been to render this little work as scientifically useful as possible ; and at the same time, through its agency, to raise a small fund for John Nunn's benefit ; since, through misfor tune, and an accident he met with soon after his return to England, which deprived him of the principal use of his right hand, he has been unable to follow such occupations as could ensure the support of himself, his wife, and young family. I beg leave to express my sincere thanks to the

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. XVII nobility, gentry, and my immediate circle of friends, who have kindly assisted in bringing this narrative before the public ; and, with much interest in Nunn's behalf, solicit further contributions towards the above-mentioned fu»d, by the j^ur chase of this little volume, from all who may feel for a fellow-creature sincerely and honestly struggling against the effects of an unusual share of misfortunes. I must express many thanks to my brother, Dr. E. Clarke, for his kind assistance in illustrating this narrative by his first essay at wood engraving, the designs of which are, with two or three exceptions, from Nunn's original drawings and descriptions ; and he offers them here with the in tention of giving additional interest to the volume, well aware there are many imperfections which, he trusts, will be kindly overlooked by all who can appreciate the motive and the time and labour bestowed upon them.

The contents of this book have been written at various times, during intervals of other occupations, from memoranda of what John Nunn has related ; and upon Mrs. Clarke has devolved the office of transcribing and preparing most of it for press : with her it has also been a labour of much pleasure, accompanied by an anxious wish to bej nefit a fellow-creature ; and although it exhibits many defects, if the few authenticated points in

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. the geographical history of the island should prove available in its future survey ; and if the lovers of humanity shall take an interest in it, and it should lead to the desired result, we shall all feel that the time allotted its preparation has not been mispent. W. B. CLARKE, M.D. Berners-street, Ipswich, Suffolk, December, 1849. 7'.' TABLE OF CONTENTS.

Chapter I

page. John Nunn's Early Life — Shipwreck — Voyage to Desolation — Tropical Sea — Storm— Whales — Chase — Birds — Kerguelen's Island — Greenland Bay — Arrangements for the Sealing Season — Shallops — the Launch 1

Chapter II

Capturing Seals — Flencing and Preparing the Skins — Sea Elephant Seal Flencing — Rafting the Blubber — Loading the Shallop — Preparing the Blubber — Implements for Whaling — Killing Whales — Cutting In — Spermaceti 23

Chapter III

Ballast — Matley's Island — South-East Shore — Shallop Harbour — Swain's Bay — Iceberg Bay — Adventure with Elephants— Fin- Backed Whale — Cape Louis — Saddle Island — Three-Boat Passage — Maryanne's Straits — Wreck of the Frances — the Cave — ■ a Device — Crew Discovered 41

Chapter IV

Whale-Boat Left at Old Shoe Hole — Greenland Bay — Royal Sound — Sea Elephants — Shallop Harbour — Snow Squall — Repulse Bay — Christmas Harbour — a Dream — Whale-Boat Gone — Loss of the Favorite — the Raft— Twelve-Foot Skiff— Blue Skin Beach

Chapter V

Climate — Grindstone — Shoes — Hotspring Bay — Mussel Bay — Birds' Eggs at Cape Louis — a Journey for Eggs — Old Shoe Hole — Penguins — Elephants — Nelleys — Mineral Pitch — Pumice — Ducks — Thunder Harbour — Ice — a Quagmire — Cottage on Fire — the Favorite — Repairing the Loon Shallop — Books

Chapter VI

An Unlooked-for Event — the Dock — the Passage — Smoking Mountain — Iceberg and Table Bay — Greenland Bay — Black Whales — Haul Over — Eoyal Sound— Rencounter with a Whale - Sidney Cove — Austra Beach— Boat Hut— Shoal- Water Bay — a Journey — Long Point. XX CONTENTS.

Chapter VII

Hope Cottage — Lamp — Fire — Furniture — Seal-skin Dresses — Culinary Operations — Occupation of Party — ■ Fish — Tobacco Pipe — Birds — Catching and Preparing Ducks — A Snow Storm — Petrels— A Journey — Captain Matley's Grave . . . 119

Chapter VIII

A Journey — Royal Bay Cave — Direction Board — Sea-Elephant — Moccassins — Return to the Cave — Papuan Penguins — Birds' Eggs — Penguins — The Egg Cart — Transporting Eggs — Albatross and King Penguin's Eggs— A Project — Party go to Shallop Harbour — Nunn and Stilliman's Sealing Expedition — Stilliman and the Nelleys — Stilliman's Accident — The Party Discovered — The Lively Cutter and Sprightly Schooner — Kepulse Bay 147

Chapter IX

White Mice — ElephantrSeal — Sea-Leopard — Fur-Seal — Spermaceti Whale — Southern Whale-bone Whale — Greenland WThale — Fin-backed Whale — Northern Rorqual — Black Fish — Sheath Bill — Brown Teal — Giant Petrel — Southern Fulmar — Pintado Petrel — Great Black Petrel — Banks's Petrel — Shear Water — ■ Short-billed Petrel — Wandering Albatross — Sooty Albatross— Yellow-nosed Albatross — Black-eyed Brown Albatross — Antarctic Pomaraine Skua — Pacific Gull — South American Gull — Short-ancled Tern — Tufted Cormorant — Emperor Penguin — King Penguin — Magellanic Penguin — Papuan Penguin — Crested Penguin — Little Penguin — Fish — Mollusca — Crustacea — Star- Fish — Sea Anemonies — Plants 173

Chapter X

Arrangement of the Men— Trip round the Island — Captain Distant's Account — Whale Chase — Repulse Bay — Cloudy Island — Boat Hut — Sealing Expedition — Departure from the Island — Fassage — Cape of Good Hope — Sealing Excursions — Stilliman's Accident — A Pirate — Turtles— Arrival in the Downs- Nunn's return to Harwich — "mi ■■■! in , riiTTiT7TTnT.il i. i.i . i t-tt I i« I I I I I I I I 1 I l; I 1 ) I I I 1 I I I fc. > '0 ff Zt> if JO Jf y, *S Ja Sf fo if PORTRAIT OF JOIIX KUKN.

Chapter I. John Nunn's Early Life

— SHIPWRECK — VOYAGE TO DESOLATION — TROPICAL SEA — STORM — WHALES — CHASE — BIRDS — KERGUELEN'S ISLAND — GREENLAND BAY — ARRANGEMENTS FOR THE SEALING SEASON — SHALLOPS — THE LAUNCH.

CHAPTER I. WAS

born at Harwich, in Essex, on the 2nd of July, 1803, and in the early part of my life assisted my father, who was master of a smack in the Harwich fishery. When about fifteen years of age I was apprenticed on board a fishingsmack named the Neptune' s Increase, belonging to the port of Harwich and to a company engaged in the turbot fishery. At the expiration of two years after my indentures were signed the vessel left Harwich bound to Skilling, on the coast of Holland, to join some other vessels belonging to the same company engaged in the fishery of that coast. Whilst endeavouring to enter the port in a storm our smack went ashore on the Grove Sand, and the crew were obliged to abandon her and take to their boats. In passing the breakers, a sea filled and upset our boat, driving us all over a part of the sand into smooth water beyond them : we landed on the main sand, having lost all we possessed on board.

Here we were unwilling witnesses to the destruction of our vessel, as she soon became a complete wreck, dividing into a thousand pieces which were thrown upon the margin of the sand in front of us. Subsequently we were relieved from our perilous position by boats, and put on board the several vessels belonging to the company and brought to England. A short time after this I was again apprenticed on board another smack, the Waterloo, in which I served during the remainder of my apprenticeship, at the expib ■4 NARRATIVE OF JOHN NUNN. ration of which I shipped on board a revenue-cutter, the Defence, Captain Nind, and remained in this vessel about five months : then left her at Harwich and shipped again in a smack called the Betsey engaged in the fish ing trade. In this vessel I continued a few months, when, thinking I should like to see a little more of the world, I left her and went to London in April, 1825, where I embarked on board the Moijal Sovereign, about four hundred tons burden, commanded by Captain Alexander Sinclair, which was fitted out by its owner, Mr. Bennet of Farringdon, for the purpose of making a sealing voyage to Kerguelen's Island, or the Island of Desolation, where it was known several species of seal, particularly the elephant-seal or sea-elephant — (macro rhinus proboscidius, sea-lion of Anson, sea-wolf o f Per ELEPHANT SEALS OR SEA ELEPHANTS. netty)— abounded, and almost any number of which could frequently be secured.

The latter species yields an abundance of pure oil, which it was intended the crew should prepare and bring with them upon their return to England. The intention of this expedition was also to collect the skins of the fur seal and bring them into this country for preparation. When all arrangements were made on board and preparations for sea completed, we proceeded down the Thames among numbers of vessels that were under sail and following various courses, presenting one of those busy scenes frequently witnessed upon this river. In consequence of our ship being a fast sailer we succes sively passed and ran a-head of them all. As we ap proached the Downs, a transport agent ship, being for a short time a-head, tried to " hang out" to windward, and her crew appeared anxious to try the relative speed of their vessel and ours ; but, whilst we steadily held out course and ran on, we passed to windward and eventually left them a-stern.

After proceeding along the British Channel we were obliged to put into Falmouth from the severity of the weather, at which place we remained a few days until the wind became more favourable, when we again weighed anchor and proceeded upon our voyage. We ran for about a fortnight under a favourable breeze through the Bay of Biscay, past the Spanish, Portuguese, and Morocco coasts, and within sight of the Canary Islands and the Peak of Teneriff, which at the time was zoned with clouds, above which it towered into the clear blue sky. In about ten days more we reached the Cape de Verd Island and dropped anchor at Bonavista, where we took in ten tons of salt, and thence proceeded to the Island of St. Nicholas, where the captain sold his " venture."* On the following day we left and continued our voyage.

Whilst sailing near the line under a beautiful clear atmosphere and within the influence of a breeze scarcely sufficient to carry us through the water, we sometimes were astonished, when in soundings, at the number of porpoises and dolphins which could be observed at times * The captains of sealing vessels occasionally provide themselves with a few articles of commerce, which they dispose of at the first convenient port visited on their passage out. following each other for hours together, occasionally accompanied by a grampus of more gigantic growth : at another instant a bonito or albacore would divert us by the rapid and lively manner in which it darts to the surface in its efforts to secure the flying-fish that were occasionally gliding in shoals around us, not unfre quently terminating their rapid flight by falling upon our decks.

Here and there the almost glass-like body of the " Portuguese man-of-war" (physalia pelagica) might be seen ploughing its way along the briny surface. To a person interested in objects of this kind a passage over an equatorial sea will afford many an hour's agreeable, pastime ; for here he will find numbers of the beau teous objects of nature actively engaged and rapidly brought within his view, so admirably calculated to amuse and instruct during the time which often hangs heavily in these regions : and here it is that he may frequently be called to witness those great and sudden changes and dispositions of the elements to whch the voyager is subject. Scarcely a breath exists and not a sail is swollen to waft us onward : yet the ocean heaves its dark blue waters in a long and gentle swell, waving our tall masts to and fro.

Nature seems to pause ! For a time nothing breaks the awful silence save the rattling to our "reef points" upon the waving canvas. Sud denly all hands are ordered aloft to take in sail : the captain has seen a change in his barometer indicative of an approaching storm. A dark cloud appears just above the horizon, its size increases, and, as the charm ing azure of the sky is veiled in black, the deep blue ocean turns to darkest green. On comes the storm : the lightning flashes and the thunder rolls : the dense green waves are seen to rise in crests of foam: the breeze increases to a potent gale : the curling waters, whitened by the blast, come dashing towards the ship—happy for the crew 'twill prove if the sails be all secured : the gale rushes onward and through the masts and rig ging howls terrifically : the vessel yields and quickly ploughs the surface of the deep, whitening her prows with foam : all watch with anxious gaze to see how she be haves : the spray from the sea to windward dashes o'er her decks : more and more she yields, until her lee scuppers are buried in the waves : the gale increases.

Can she hold her course, or must she bear away and scud until the storm is past ? But see ! the sky has changed to windward : the clouds upon the horizon seem less dark. Still the lightning flashes and the thunder rolls; but now the rain descends in torrents: the gale subsides, and in proportion to the increased rain the surf appears suppressed : the sky to windward brightens — a silvery space appears between the clouds and the horizon which gradually expands until the azure sky presents itself beyond: the lightning faintly gleams from cloud to cloud : more distant rolls the thunder : the sun again breaks through the clouds and paints the sea with streaks of blue and gold : the darkened veil of clouds is gradually withdrawn and all seems fair again : our decks and rigging soon give up their moisture to the steady breeze : our sails are then unfiirled and opened to the wind, and again we plough onward to our desti nation, curling at our prow the waters of the deep blue sea.