Life, Wanderings, and Labours in Eastern Africa ... With map and illustration. Second edition

Front matter

WORKS BY FRANCIS JACOX, B.A. Just Published, crown 8vo., 8s. 6d\, cloth. AT NIGHTFALL AND MIDNIGHT: Musings After Dark. Contents : — Twilight -Home for the Night— Shadows— A Moonlight Ride with Wordsworth— Noctambulism — Glimpses within by Gazers without— Bird's-eye Views by Night — Wind and Rain by Night— Fire-gazing— Night Students— Midnight Memoranda- Consolations of Literature — Sou they *s "Days among the Dead" — Taking up a new study in old age— Night Thoughts, Fears, and Fancies— Afraid in the Dark- Children in the Dark — Waking and Weeping — Midnight Musings — Dead Friends remembered in the Dead of Night— All Gone, the Old Familiar Faces— Ev**r Remembered, Never Named— The Last Sleep — Thoughts of the Sleepless on thjir Last Sleep — The " Sublime Attractions of the Grave"— Last Words — Last Times— The Last.

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Preface

. ' I 'HE substance of this volume would probably -*■*- have seen the light more than a year ago, but for the occurrence of circumstances which the author either could not foresee or could not avoid. In the early part of 1872 he was returning to England for the purpose, among other things, of publishing some such work, when his homeward career was suddenly stopped by his meeting, at Zanzibar, with the " Livingstone Search and Relief Expedition," which he was invited to join. His connection with that unfortunate undertaking delayed him some months ; and when he did reach the shores of Eng land, he was so besieged with correspondence and calls upon his time and labours in behalf of missionary anniversaries, anti-slavery meetings, etc., etc., that book-writing, for the time, was rendered quite im possible.

As he had opportunity a few sentences were jotted down, but no great progress was made. The object of the work is to give as accurate a view Preface. VI of a portion of Africa and its peoples, and of pioneer missionary work, as possible ; not to draw a picture, but tlie picture ; abjuring couleur de rose, making no attempt to magnify difficulties or to exaggerate ad venture, but stating the truth regarding everything, relying upon reality and veracity for the interest we aim at exciting. The part of the country over which we have to conduct the reader is entirely distinct from that which has been so exhaustively dealt with by Burton, Speke, Grant, Livingstone, and Stanley ; the only in formation upon it before the public being that which has been supplied by Krapf, Rebmann, and Von der Decken, the two former in a volume which, from its price, we believe has not circulated widely, and which is now out of print, and the latter in a work which has only been published in German.

Moreover, some portions of the country we describe had never been visited hitherto by any European whatever. The present work may therefore claim something on the score of novelty, the land, peoples, scenes, circumstances, and experiences portrayed being almost entirely new ; and, to indicate an additional attraction, we may express the opinion that no part of Africa possesses characteristics of greater interest than that which it is our endeavour to bring before the notice of the reader. Some changes have taken place in Eastern Africa Preface. VII since the former part of these pages was sent to the press, or some alteration might have been made in a few of the expressions. The changes alluded to are those connected with the action the English Govern ment has taken in regard to East African slavery, and if the reader will bear them in mind all mis apprehension will be avoided.

References to slavery and the slave trade will be found interspersing the narrative throughout, and we fear that, notwithstanding what has been done by England to abolish the traffic, they are as necessary and as applicable now as they were when they were lirst penned. Our further remarks upon this dark subject we have compressed within the limits of one short chapter. We should have been heartily glad had it not been necessary to allude to it at all; but, alas ! the evil still exists, and will continue to exist until something more than treaties and cruisers be brought to bear against it It is only a few days, as it were, ago, that all England was horrified at the intelligence that a slaver had been captured near to Seychelles, in which, of about 300 human beings that had been shipped, only some fifty remained, the rest having fallen the prey of small-pox and the other hardships of the passage.

This has liappened since the mission of Sir Bartle Frere. Such a fact must speak for itself. One word upon the Orthography adopted in this Preface. volume. We have followed the system — similar to that of Dr. Lepsius — applied by Dr. Krapf to the languages and dialects of Eastern Africa, and which, despite some few inconsistencies, is a marvel of simplicity and accuracy. We have avoided all hair splitting distinctions and diacritical signs for the sake of plainness, and in disputable instances we have followed sound rather than strict science. If the reader will remember that the vowels are continental, and that the accent — except in rare cases, which are marked — falls upon the penultimate, the words can scarcely be mispronounced. In the word Muham mad and its derivatives, after the example of such an oriental scholar as Dr. Wilson, we have followed the pronunciation.

With regard to the prefixes, it may be explained that U denotes locality, as U-nika ; M, a man of the country, M-nika ; Wa, men of the country, Wa-nika ; and Ki is an adjectival particle, corresponding to our ish in English, and always, but not exclusively, applied to the language, as Ki-nika. Our life in East Africa has not been favourable to literary pursuits and studies. We went to the country at an early age, to a forlorn hope, and have ever since been engaged in the stern realities of our work, having neither had time nor conveniences for pay ing attention to the art of literary composition, and in that department, therefore, we make no preten- Preface. IX sions ; our great aim being to tell a simple, plain, unvarnished, and truthful tale. In conclusion, we commend our portraiture of Africa and Africans to missionary societies, philanthropists, practical statesmen, men of science, merchants, and our Christian countrymen generally, in the hope of deepening the interest already felt in the country, and of increasing that sympathy for the people which has been so largely evoked, chiefly by the unparalleled and self-denying toils of Dr. Livingstone ; and to con tribute, in however small a degree, to such a result will gratify more than anything else the leading ambition of our life. London, October, 1873.. CONTENTS CHAPTER PACE I.

Introduction

I II. ZANZIBAR 23 III. SUAHILI-LAND AND THE WASUAHILI . 45 IV. UNIKA . 71 V. WANIKA ....... 92 VI. LIFE AT RIBE ...... 130 VII. JOURNEY TO THE GALLA COUNTRY — PRE- PARATORY . . . . . . 159 VIII. BARARETTA 1 73 IX. WEICHU 195 X. ON THE TANA * . 2 11 XI. WE GO TO GANDA 232 XII. GEOGRAPHY AND ETHNOLOGY . . . 259 XIII. THE JOURNEY TO KILIMA NJARO : THE START 2S3 XIV. THROUGH THE WILDERNESS . . . 30S XV. LIFE AT KISIGAU 32 1 XVI. THE TAITA PLAINS AND LAKE JIPE . . 338 XVII. TAVETA 353 XVIII. TO MOCHE 36'/ Contents. XII CHAPTER PAGE XIX. CHAGA 382 XX. ASCENT OF KILIMA NJARO . . . 400 XXI. KILIMANJARO: SECOND ATTEMPT . . 4'9 XXII. EASTERN CHAGA AND THE LAKE CHALA . 433 XXIII. GEOGRAPHY AND ETHNOLOGY AGAIN . . 45 1 XXIV. BURA, NDARA, AND — THE JOURNEYS END 47 I XXV. EAST AFRICAN SLAVERY .... 489 XXVI. CONCLUSION — THE LIVINGSTONE EXPEDI- TION HOME ..... 509

Appendix

. I. LIST OF PLANTS COLLECTED ON THE ALPINE REGION OF KILIMA NJARO . . -523 II. A TABLE SHOWING THE VARIATIONS IN THE DIALECTS AND LANGUAGES SPOKEN BY SOME OF THE PEOPLES INHABITING THE REGIONS LAID DOWN UPON THE MAP . . . 526 III. THERMOMETRICAL NOTES SHOWING THE VA- RIATIONS OF TEMPERATURE FROM THE SEA-BOARD UP TO THE LINE OF PERPETUAL SNOW , ; , . LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. PAGE Map of Eastern Equatorial Africa. By the Author. Portrait of the Author Frontispiece Wasuahili : Tofiki and Wife. From photographs by C. New 59 Missionary teaching the Wanika. From a photograph by C. New 71 Wanika. From photographs by C. New . . . .126 Gallas. From photographs by C. New .... 270 Unconscious Danger 346 Summit of Kilima Njaro. From a sketch . . . 379 Reception at Court by Mandara. From a sketch . . 384 A Midnight Surprise.

From a sketch .... 482 Slave-flogging at Malindi. From a sketch . . . 503 " Livingstone Lodge," Seychelles. From a photograph . I WANDERINGS IN EASTERN AFRICA.

Chapter I. Introduction

.

EASTERN AFRICA, thirty years ago unnoticed and almost unknown, has now been brought so prominently before the public that the deepest interest has been excited in its condition, and anxious in quiries are made on all hands for more information. We purpose, from our own experience, to contribute our quota towards the elucidation of this most interesting subject. Before entering, however, upon the particular la bours in which we have been engaged, it may be desirable to give a brief sketch of the origin of the work. The honour of its inauguration belongs to the Rev. Dr. Krapf, at that time a missionary of the Church Missionary Society. To the courage, enterprise, and missionary zeal of that gentleman the world is in debted for the opening up of the almost hermetically sealed coast of East Africa.

Whatever may have IVtinderings in Eastern Africa. 2 been accomplished by others, either in the way of exploration or missionary endeavour, to Dr. Krapf must remain the honour of having pioneered tlie way. of having revealed to us the state of the country, proved the practicability of doing something for its welfare;, and of turning to advantage its immense resources. To Dr. Krapfs book, published by Trub ner & Co. in 1S60, the reader may be referred for full information regarding his labours and travels. We can only refer to a few of the most salient points. Dr, Krapf had previously been engaged for about four years as a missionary in Abyssinia. There he undertook several important exploratory journeys, by which he was brought into contact with the rtprthpfti He became deeply interested in this people, who. though a very wild and savage race, commended themselves to him as greatly superior to the sur rounding nations, and occupying a most important position in Central Africa.

He deemed them .also highly susceptibleof civilizing and christianizing in fluences . indeed, their whule condition and circumstances excited his deepest sympathy, and fired his soul with an uncommon ardour to do something lor amelioration and benefit. An unforeseen corn l-ination of events, however, ultimately necessitated \wretirement from Abyssinia, and the hope of bene l.ting this people seemed for the time to be cut olT. (Jut lie was not the man to accept a defeat at the ',, i.|'viUc, and hence he determined not to abandon his project without another effort. It occurred to him that he might reach the Gallas from the East i last He therefore proceeded at once, with Mi--. Krapf, to Zanzibar, where he arrived in the year 1 844. Introduction. 3 Sayid Said the Sultan, also called thelmaum of Muscat then resident at Zanzibar, gave tothe Doctor a kind and cordial reception, and showed an unexpected readiness to assist him and to further his aims.

He furnished him with a passport through his dominions, and re commended him to all his subordinate Governors and Sheikhs, as " a good man who wished to convert the world to God." Dr. Krapf next made his way to Mombasa. From Mombasa he visited. the Wanika, which in the end resulted in the selection of Rabai Mpia (in Kinika, Mudsi Muvia, New Town), New Rabai, as the spot on which to establish the first Christian mission in East Africa. Thus was originated what has been called the "hapless Mombas mission," a misnomer in more senses than one. Mombasa never has been mis sioned. The mission thus established was to the Wanika, and would be more properly called the Kinika mission. As to the term " hapless," we beg to alter the expression, and to use the word "happy" that mission being, in our opinion, the happiest event that has taken place in the history of Eastern Africa.

Viewed in connection with what must be its ultimate outcome, there is something about it truly sublime. It marks an era in the history of that portion of the country on which shall be inscribed, in unmistakable characters, Christianity, Liberty, and Progress. Direct missionary labour could not be commenced at once. It was necessary first to acquire the languages, and to reduce them to form. Dr. Krapf was the man for this work. In two years he had written a Kisuahili grammar, compiled extensive vocabularies in Kisuahili, Kinika, Kikamba, and had done some- Wanderings hi Eastern Africa. 4 thing in the translation of the Scriptures into some of these dialects, — an almost Herculean achievement. In the meantime Mrs. Krapf and babe had suc cumbed to African fever, and the husband and father's brave heart had been torn and racked with these painful bereavements.

Still he worked on. In 1846 the mission was reinforced by the arrival of the Rev. J. Rebmann, who, after twenty-seven years' labour, is still at his post. After a while com menced those exploratory journeys which have made this mission for ever famous. Mr. Rebmann made four journeys to the west, one to Kadiaro, one to Kilema, and two to Machame, the last two places being in Chaga. On Mr. Rebmann's journey to Kilema, eastern Chaga, he made the discovery of the equatorial snow-mountain, Kilima Njaro. On his two subsequent journeys to Machame, western Chaga, he saw more of the mountain. His journals, giving an account of his discoveries, were published in the " Church Missionary Intelligencer," and were also incorporated in the book published by Dr. Krapf. Mr. Rebmann thus exploring the west, Dr. Krapf turned his attention to the north-west.

Twice he visited Ukambani, on the last occasion pushing his way as far as to the banks of the Tana, and catch ing a glimpse of another gigantic snow-mountain several days north of his position, and called Kenia. This journey terminated somewhat disastrously, and it was only after many narrow escapes of his life that the Doctor returned to the coast. Dr. Krapf also made two journeys to Usambara, a district immediately north of the river Pangani, a Introduction. 5 mountainous country of great beauty and fertility, and in the possession of a most interesting people. In addition to these personal explorations, the mis sionaries gathered a vast amount of information from the natives regarding the far interior, particularly of certain vast lakes, or as they were then designated, "inland seas." Maps embodying this information were drawn up and presented to the public.

Geo graphers were taken by surprise. Beautiful lakes and fertile lands now took the place of scorching sands and desert wastes ! Ptolemy was taken from the shelf and pored over as he had never been before. There were those who thought they saw in these lakes the " coy sources" ofthe Nile. The mystery of ages was to be solved. Exciting discussions ensued ; discussions which did not end in mere words ; some thing was to be done, and something was done. Captains Burton and Speke were sent to the " lake regions;" the public knows with what result. Another expedition followed, under Captains Speke and Grant. These gentlemen, with indomitable courage, made a track from Zanzibar to Egypt, one of the most marvellous feats of modern exploration. Then followed the work of Baker. Lastly we have the greatest traveller of them all, the Rev. Dr. Livingstone, now plodding away at the core of the matter, suffering and doing untold things, with a fair prospect, it is hoped, of settling the great problems at issue, and of opening a door through which Christianity and civilization may pro ceed to the very heart of Africa.

All this is the result of the " hapless Mombas mission." Dr. Krapf left the east coast of Africa in 1853, leaving Mr. Rebmann in charge of the mission. The attention of the United Methodist Free Churches was called to Eastern Africa by the following circumstances. Dr. Krapfs book had been read by Charles Cheetham, Esq., of Heywood, who was at that time treasurer of the Missionary Society of the Free Churches. A deep impression had been made upon Mr. Cheetham's mind by its contents, and his sympathies were drawn out largely towards Africa, but he felt particular interest in the Gallas. Mr. Cheetham opened a correspondence with Dr. Krapf, and brought the matter before the missionary committee. The Doctor was invited to meet the committee; an invitation to which he responded with great cordiality and earnestness.

The meeting was held in Manchester, on the 14th of November, 1860. Dr. Krapf urged the committee to action. A deep feeling was excited in favour of a mission to Eastern Africa, and eventually it was resolved that the enterprise should be undertaken. Dr. Krapf recommended that four men, at least, should be selected for the work, and he nobly offered to accompany them to East Africa, instruct them in the language of the country, advise them in the selection of localities, introduce them to the chiefs, and assist them to commence their operations. He also recommended that two of the four men required be taken from the Missionary Training Institution at St. Chrischona, Switzerland, an insti tution that has been the means of doing immense good, having furnished able men for all parts of the world.

The missionary committee having endorsed this recommendation, the Rev. Robert Eckett and Charles Cheetham, Esq., were deputed to visit the institution, and, if they thought it advisable, to select Introduction. 7 from the students the two men required. Accordingly two young men were chosen, and brought over to England, that they might make some personal acquaintance with the members of the churches under whose auspices they were to go forth as the messengers of the Gospel. Their apparent piety, biblical knowledge, and general deportment made a good impression wherever they went, and ardent hopes were excited that they might prove true and useful men. In the meantime an appeal had been made to the Free Churches for the services of other men from their own ranks. To this appeal eight young men responded, five of whom were already engaged in home mission work, a proof that there was no lack of missionary zeal in the Free Churches.

But two only of the eight were needed, and Messrs. Wakefield and Woolner were appointed. After a slight preliminary training under Dr. Krapf, at Kornthal, they left Europe on their way to Africa, and on the 19th of August, 1861, arrived at the city of Cairo, in Egypt. There they made a short halt, but they were not idle. Kisuahili, Kinika, and the Arabic languages engaged their attention during their stay. Here Dr. Krapf received cheering intelligence regard ing the condition of the country to which they were proceeding. He had been apprehensive that he and his party might not receive so hearty a reception at Zanzibar as could be desired. Complications had previously occurred, which had seriously involved the interests of mission work in East Africa, Dr. Krapf himself having been unjustly charged with having meddled with the political affairs of the country.

In a ship arrived on the east coast of Africa with a large band of Hanoverian missionaries, whose object it was to open up missions among the Gallas. They were not received with favour by the authorities at Zanzibar. Still they proceeded to Mombasa, apparently determined, despite all opposition, to carry out their purpose. The Governor of Mombasa, however, had been instructed not to allow them to land, and they were ordered to leave that port in twenty-four hours. Notwithstanding this, some members of the party went ashore, with the intention of proceeding overland to the Galla country. They did not, how ever, go beyond the Mtoapa ; for reaching that creek they turned towards the Wanika, and made their way through some portion of the Wanika land to the missionary station at Rabai Mpia. Thence they re turned to Mombasa, and were after all compelled to leave the coast.

Such having been the case, it was natural that Dr. Krapf should feel somewhat anxious as to the recep tion he and his party might meet with when they should arrive at Zanzibar. At Cairo, however, he received a letter from his old colleague, the Rev. J. Rebmann, in which he was informed that a colony of Jesuits and Sisters of Mercy had been received into the country at the instance of the French consul ; that her Britannic Majesty's consul had thereupon demanded the same rights and privileges on behalf of British subjects ; and that they had been at once con ceded( Dr. Krapf and party were greatly cheered by this intelligence : all seemed clear before them. God in His wonder-working Providence had gone before them and opened up their way. Introduction. 9 From Cairo the party proceeded to Aden, where they met with much kindness from Colonel Playfair, who was then assistant political resident at that place.

Colonel Playfair had engaged for them an Arab baghala, and he rendered them substantial help in many other ways. On the 12th of November they set sail for Mombasa, but they had a very trying voyage before them. An Arab baghala and a Pen insular and Oriental steamboat are very different vessels, and the missionaries were to prove this by painful experience. After a very tedious and perilous voyage along the Arabian coast, extending over nearly two months, they reached Zanzibar on the 5th of January, 1862. They were received kindly by Colonel Pelly, then her B. M.'s consul there. An introduction to the Sultan, Sayid Majid, followed. The Sultan treated the party with great kindness, favouring them with a passport through his dominions, and recommending them to the care of his subordinates. Nothing remained but to commence operations.

The missionaries began to look about them for suitable localities in which to pitch their tent. Usambara and Unika seemed to present the most inviting prospects, and after due consideration it was determined to commence a mission in each of these countries. It was arranged that the two missionaries from St. Chrischona should endeavour to establish missions at the latter place, and Messrs. Wakefield and Woolner at the former. Dr. Krapf, therefore, accompanied by the Swiss, proceeded without delay to the Wanika. They reached Mombasa on the 20th, and thence made their way to the Church Missionary Society's mission at Rabai Mpia, where Dr. Krapf met with his old colleague, Mr. Rebmann. The question to be decided upon now was, among which tribe of the Wanika the new mission was to be established.

Circumstances led them to fix upon Kauma, the most northern of the Kinika tribes, and on the borders of the Galla land. It was hoped that a mission at Kauma would prove a stepping-stone to the Gallas. In a few days we find the party en route for Kauma. They reached the place in two days, and Dr. Krapf thus describes his reception : " Six or seven chiefs of Kauma came to decide our case. I first explained to them that my Christian friends at home had sent me, with my two companions, to teach the Wanika and Galla the Word of God, just as I had formerly instructed the people at Rabai. If the Kauma people were inclined to receive teachers, my two friends would come and reside among them." To this the principal chief, Mashenga VTanga, replied : " The country is yours. You can do whatever you please.

You have our permission to build and teach. Whoever is desirous of entering your book may do so ; we have no objection against it." At a subsequent interview the chiefs expressed themselves in the same manner, and wished to empha sise their declaration by performing the ceremonies of the " Sadaka," and the " Kiapo," the " sacrifice and the oath." All this looked very promising. But the mission aries were not in a position to commence their work at once. They needed to know more of the languages "than they had yet acquired, and on this Introduction 11 account it was arranged that they should return to Mombasa, prosecute their studies at that place, and return to Kauma as soon as they should be able, with some east, to hold intercourse with the people in their own tongue. But Dr. Krapf had other work to perform.

Leav ing the Swiss at Mombasa, he sailed again for Zan zibar. Preparations were commenced at once for a prospecting expedition to Usambara, where it was hoped Messrs. Wakefield and Woolner would be able to locate themselves. All was ready by the 14th of February, 1862. On the morning of that day they embarked in a small boat in which they proposed crossing the channel. That night they lay to not far from the town. Presently a small cargo of slaves was shipped. On the folfowing morning Dr. Krapf insisted that the slaves should be sent back to Zanzi bar, which was done. But in a short time the mis sionaries themselves were to be sent back. Badly managed, their craft had been anchored in shallow water, so that when the tide fell she was left almost high and dry on the bank. On the return of the tide the waves broke over her, and in a few minutes she was completely swamped.

The missionaries lost some valuable property, and were in awkward straits, but they were picked up by Captain Cruttenden, of the Zenobia, and kindly provided with a night's lodging on board that vessel. On the 16th they got another boat under weigh; the wind was favourable, and on the evening of the same day they anchored before the town of Pangani. They called upon the Governor of that place and presented their papers, but were not favourably received. The Governor would not look at the letter of the English consul, declaring that Sayid Majid alone was his master. The general letter of the Sultan he did not deem satisfactory, and asked for one specially addressed to himself. He would not allow the party to proceed further without special instructions from the Sultan. This occasioned a delay of several days.

Dr. Krapf, deeming it unnecessary that he should remain longer, embarked at once for Mombasa, leaving it to Messrs. Wakefield and Woolner to examine the country, and to decide as to its eligibility or otherwise for mission work. In a few days a special letter from the Sultan was received, in which the Governor was rebuked for his treatment of the missionaries, and they were allowed to proceed at once. They made two short trips, the first to Kipumbui, south of Pangani, and the second to Chogue, about two days' journey up the course of that river. At Kipumbui they saw nothing to induce them to select it as a mission station, and at Chogue they were treated very roughly. They were anxious to make their way to Tongue, but, despite the Sultan's letter, they were not allowed to do this. Having done their utmost, they returned to the coast, and on the 24th of March they joined Dr. Krapf at Mombasa.

Now it was decided to visit the Shimba mountain, in the Wanika country, hoping to sind there a more eligible field. On the 27th the party set out on this tour, but before they had gone far, Messrs. Wakefield and Woolner both became so ill as to be unable to pro ceed, and they returned to Mombasa. For many days they continued in this state, and it seemed as though the mission was to come to an untimely Introduction. 13 end. The other two missionaries were also suffer ing severely from the climate. Just at this time a skirmish occurred in the harbour of Mombasa, between the officers of one of our cruisers, the Ariel, and some Suri Arabs. The latter had freighted a vessel with slaves, with the purpose, as was well known, of proceeding with this human cargo to one of the ports of South Arabia.