Great Yarmouth and Lowestoft, chapters on the archæology, natural history, etc. of the district; a history of the East Coast Herring Fishery; and an etymological and comparative glossary of the dialect of East Anglia [With photographic illustrations.] L.P

Front matter

" I care not, if, in a dim fair of landskip, I take the pains to describe this supereminent principal metropolis of the red fish " " It were to be wished, that other coasters were so industrious as Yarmouth, in winning the treasure of fish out of those pro fundities, and then we should have twenty eggs a penny ; and it would be as plentiful a world as when abbies stood ; and now if there be any plentiful world it is in Yarmouth. Her sumptuous porcheB, and garnished buildings are such, as no port town in our British circumference, nay, take some port cities overplus into the bargain, may suitably stake with or adequate." Nashe's Lenten Stuff. *' I care not, if, in a dim fair of landskip, I take the pains to describe this supereminent principal metropolis of the red fish " " It were to be wished, that other coasters were so industrious as Yarmouth, in winning the treasure of fish out of those pro fundities, and then we should have twenty eggs a penny ; and it would be as plentiful a world as when abbies stood ; and now if there be any plentiful world it is in Yarmouth.

Her sumptuous porches, and garnished buildings are such, as no port town in our British circumference, nay, take some port cities overplus into the bargain, may suitably stake with or adequate." Naslie's Lenten Stuff. , flj —■***• — _.__^___^__^___^^___^^__^_ __. . \ . ... -^am THE SOUTH-WEST PROSPECT OF YARMOUTH, 7N THE COUNTY OF NORFOLE. <Kt*at l^at-moutf) aallaiti ttoiiiestoft. CHAPTERS ON THE ARCHJEOLOGY, NATURAL HISTORY, ETC, OF THE DISTRICT ; A HISTORY OF THE EAST COAST HERRING FISHERY AND AS ETYMOLOGICAL AND COMPa-YRATIY E GLOSSARY or THE DIALECT OF EAST ANGLIA. By JOHN GREAVES NALL. " Jernemutha, hahilis urbs in cultu dominorum, domorum venustate, vestium honcstate,_:c."—.V.Li_i am of Worcester's Itinerary, a.d. 1178. " This town is in regard of the people civil ; for entertainment of strangers courteous; for the sea commodious; for the rivers meeting pleasant ; in fish plentiful ; and in traffic to foreign parts famous." — Manship's Great Yarmouth, a.d. 1619.

Yarmouth, the great and ancient mart of Herrings."— Pennant. LONDON : LONGMANS, GREEN, READER & DYER. 18G7. large papec ŒDition of JBinetp Copies, With Photographic Illustrations of the Old Walls, Towers, Gates, Rotvs,qjid~Aiitigitities of Great Yarmouth.

Preface

. A few words may be needed to explain the long delay which as the earlier pages of this volume show, has occurred in passing it through the Press. It has occupied most of the writer's intervals of brief leisure during the last six years, with frequent delays arising from the difficulty of collecting materials at a distance from the locality, whilst over the chapters on thc Fishery and the Dialect, a constantly growing interest in his subject has led him to dwell, unconscious of the lapse of time and the rapid multiplication of pages. Now that the work is finished, no one can be more alive to its imperfect execution and the great disproportion of its parts. Much of it he could have wished to recast, more especially the Natural History notices. To this section considerable additions had been prepared, including Chapters upon the Agriculture of the district ; and upon the Y'armouth Haven and Roads, based upon Parliamentary Blue Books and Engineering Eeports.

Want of space has necessitated the cutting down of these to a few skeleton notes in the appendix. Upon the Glossary of the East Anglian Dialect, considerable labour has been bestowed in the elucidation of its etymologies and the gathering of illustrative quotations from native authors. The etymologies the writer was led to take up, on discovering early in his task that they presented a field of research far less explored than he had surmised, and possessed features of unusual interest. He has lingered over them many months, reluctant to confess himself baffled at the derivation of a single word in the Glossary, and it will be seen that increasing familiarity with his work has rendered the latter portion of it more complete than the earlier. Of this earlier part many important corrections will be found in the Appendix, where also additional words have been given, and the number of conjectural etymologies greatly reduced.

To C. J. PALMER, Esq., F.S.A., THESE CHAPTERS (ON A LOCALITY WHICH HIS WRITINGS FIRST MADE INTERESTING TO THE AUTHOR,) ARE INSCRIBED. TABLE OF CONTENTS. rAGE Introduction ... ... 5 fi Early History of Yarmouth ... 12 YARMOUTH Quay Side and Haven 33 ,, Market Place ... 61 Sea Beach 138 Notes on Yarmouth Ecclesiastical History 85 Municipality 90 „ Local History ... 98 Parliamentary History ... 107 > Sarah Martin, the Prison Visitor ... 123 Environs of Yarmouth 15-lr-187 River Scenery of Yarmouth 161 Burgh Castle ... ... 166 Caister Castle ... 169 Cromer .. ... ... 180 LOWESTOFT 187 Environs of Lowestoft 211-229 A Visit to Somerleyton Hall 215 Notes on Southwold 223 „ Beccles 227 „ Norwich 229 Geology of the District 233 Natural History „ ••• 239 Arch.eolocy „ -U contents.

THE EAST COAST HERRING FISHERY, &c. 258-414 Its Early History 258 Natural History of the Herring ... ... ... 273 Early Regulations of the Yarmouth Fishery . . . 283 Processes of the Herring Fishery ... 288 Mackerel Fishery 309 Trawl Fishery 312 Statistics of the Yarmouth and Lowestoft Fisheries 318 A Chapter on Herring Cookery, &c. ... ... 353 Supplementary Note on the East Coast Fisheries ... 406 Appendix Note on ditto 714 Trade of the Port of Yarmouth 414 The Yarmouth Beachmen 417 Line Fishinq on the East Coast 421 DIALECT AND PROVINCIALISMS OF EAST ANGLIA 422-710 Originals of the East Anglian Dialect 426-450, 699-706 East Anglian Writers 463-473 „ Pronunciation 485-490 Characteristics of our English Dialects ... 493-504,704 Glossary 505-688 Additions and corrections to the Glossary . . . 689 Analysis of the East Anglian Dialect 699-706 Notes on the Farming of East Norfolk 717 „ Yarmouth Roads 721 „ Yarmouth Haven 726* Ikdex 724 Appendix to Large Paper Edition A Ramble round Old Yarmouth i-r_v. The Old Assembly Books xxvi.

Tns Yarmouth Rows xrxiii. Notes on Corbridge's and Buck's Old Views of Yarmouth LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. To Large Paper Edition. To face Page Buck's Western Prospect of Great Yarmouth, A.D. 1741 Frontispiece NoRTn Gate, {pulled down 1807), from a sepia Drawing by Rooker, taken at the close of last century ... ... 29 Quay. — Copied from Butcher's View, painted 1796 ... 35 Taken from its northern end. Yarmouth Row, No. 89 ... ... ... ... 39 „ „ 100 39 Town Hall ... ... ... ... ... 41 Old Room in Mr. C. J. Palmer's House on the South Quay 41 Yarmouth Row, No. 36. Garden Bow ... ... 45 South Gate, (pulled down 1812), from Cotman's Etching ... 47 Haven Mouth. — From Turner's "England and Wales"... 53 The painter, aa usual, has taken great liberties with his subject. The battery near the North Pier is dwarfed in size, and the Pier itself well nigh suppressed.

Marketplace. — From Butcher s View, painted 1796 ... 61 Shews the Market Cross removed in 1836. The gabled turret surmounted by a crosa in the middle distance of the right hand side, indicates the old Children's Hospital, rebuilt 1846. The original spire of St. Nicholas Church is shewn. St. Nicholas Church, east end, as partially restored, 1864 67 Part of the Priory appears in the left hand corner. „ ,, „ before restoration ... 71 „ „ distant view, as restored ... ... 71 „ „ taken from N.W. ... ... 77 S.W. 77 „ „ interior, looking N.W. ... ... 79 S.W. 79 Priory, South side ... ... ... ... ... 85 Fisheksien's Hospital ffijfyZ ■•■ ■•■ ••• ... 85 Black Friars' Tower, exterior or Eastern side ... ... ILLUSTRATIONS. To face Page Yarmouth Row, No. 35 ... ... ... ... 119 „ „ 117 119 Tollhouse ... ... ... ... ... 121 A Yarmouth trolly appears in the foreground.

Middlegate, or Gaol Street, looking North ... ... 133 Yarmouth Row, No. 91 J. — With remains of thc Cloister of the Grey Friars' Church ... ... ... ... 135 North West Tower ... ... ... ... 137 Yarmouth Jetty. — From Butcher's View, painted 1796 ... 149 One of the now obsolete Yarmouth cart-coaches is shewn on the left hand corner, at the foot of a look-out. (See note at page -10). Burgii Castle, South-west corner Bastion ... ... 169 Caister Castle, East side ... ... ... ... 169 Somerleyton Hall, West Front ... ... ... 216 King Street and Western Side of Market Place... ... 255 Quay — Central Part... ... ... ... ... 255 South East Tower... ... ... ... ... 257 Copy of Old Plan of Yarmouth ... ... ... i. Made in Queen Elizabeth's reign. In the Cottonian M.SS., British Museum, Hospital Tower and Town Wall ... ... ... xi.

Situate at the back of the ChUdrcn's Hospital. Black Friars' Tower, inner, or Western side ... ... xiii. Old Tower on the Middle Dene ... ... ... xiii. Yarmouth Row, No. 1. Ramp Row ... ... ... xxv. „ „ „ 28. Conge Row... ... xxxiii. Corbridge's West Prospect of Yarmouth, a.d. 1725 xxxvii. Dedicated to Sir Robert Walpole. Of considerable value as shewing that the quay was free nearly a century back, from those encroachments at each end which now disfigure it. The old drawbridge, and the salt pits of South Town, at that time almost nnbuilt on, are also given. Many of the exteriors of the old mansions of Yarmouth, which form a border to the view, had unfortunately just undergone the restoring mania described at page 256. Descriptive noUces of the old Towers, Walls, Gates, and Rows, are given in the papers on Old Yarmouth, which appears at the end of the Large Paper copies. The photographs of the Towers and P.or.s represent their actual condition in 1866. CHAPTEES ON THE EAST ANGLIAN COAST.

Part I Gee At Yaemouth And Lowestoft

; THEIR TOPOGRAPHY, ARCHÆOLOGY, NATURAL HISTORY, &C, .AND A HISTORY OF THEIR FISHERIES. " But now to nimble Yar turn we our active song, Which, in her winding course, from Norwich to the main, By many a stately seat lasciviously doth strain ; To Yarmouth till she come, her only christen'd town, Whose fishing through the realm doth her so much renown. * * * that in her state doth stand, With towns of high'st account, the fourth of all the land ; That hospitable place * * * Where those, that with their nets still haunt the boundless lake, Such a sumptuous feast of salted herrings make ; As they had robb'dihfifea^r^HJjer finny store. And past that vej^jiouc it ftofajfr wjduce no more." sz :■". ." Drayton's Polyolbion,