Remains of Lost Empires: sketches of the ruins of Palmyra, Nineveh, Babylon, and Persepolis, with some notes on India ... Illustrations

Front matter

KEMAINS OF LOST EMPIEES SKETCHES OF THE RUINS OF PALMYRA, NINEVEH, BABYLON, AND PERSEPOLIS, WITH SOME NOTES ON INDIA AND THE CASHMERIAN HIMALAYAS. By P. Y N. MYERS, A.M., ASSOCIATE AUTnOR, WITn II. M. MYERS, OF " LIFE AND NATURE UNDER THE TROPICS. ILLUSTRATION'S. NEW YORK: HARPER & BROTHERS, PUBLISHERS, FRANKLIN SQUARE. 18 75. Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1874, by Harper & Brothers, In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. Deutcateir TO THE LASTING AND AFFECTIONATE REMEMBRANCE OF MY COMPANION BROTHER.

Introduction

. In giving this volume to the public, a word is requisite iu regard to the circumstances out of which it has grown. The journey, the narrative of which runs through and gives unity to the work, was per formed by the late Henry M. Myers and the writer during the years of 1871-2. The way to the under taking was gradually prepared. My brother early became enamored of the natural sciences, botany, however, being his favorite study. It was his en thusiastic devotion to science that led to his appoint ment, while a student at Williams College, as a member of the expedition sent out by the Lyceum of Natural History of that institution to the tropical regions of South America. It was my own fortune also to be a member of the same expedition. This was in the summer of 1867. Among the publications which grew out of the discoveries and explorations of the different members of this party was a joint history of the expedition by Henry M. Myers and the present writer, which was given to the public

INTRODUCTION.

. II under the title of " Life and Nature under the Trop ics." Three years after the return of this expedition, encouraged by its success, the "Williams College Ly ceum of Natural History organized another expedition for the exploration of portions of Central America ; and of this party Mr. H. M. Myers was chosen leader. These several expeditions to the tropics naturally strengthened my brother's love for his favorite pursuit ; for in all his tropical travels botany was his engrossing study. They also awakened in him an ardent desire to visit the Himalayas of India, and examine the flora of their elevated forest and table lands. My own interest — an amateur's — in geology, and especially in glacial phenomena, also led me to look toward the Himalayas as a rare field for the study of ancient glacial action.

A proposal to my brother that our projected post-graduation European tour be extended into Asia, and that there we should seek fresher fields of observation and research than Europe has to offer, met with an enthusiastic response. He wrote: "What if we fall by the way; will it not be in preparing ourselves for better work ? And it will be well." Our plans were carefully matured. We proposed to spend our first summer abroad in Europe, and with the approach of fall make the usual pilgrimage

INTRODUCTION.

. III to Egypt and Palestine ; then to push across the Syrian desert, through Babylonia and Persia, examining the ruins marking the sites of all the famed cities of antiquity in those regions, and planning our journeyings so as to reach the Himalayas in time to spend the second summer of our absence among tbe cool retreats of their elevated ranges. Then, with the advance of winter, we proposed to descend to the plains of India, and return home by the way of China and Japan, thus completing the tour of the world. We had finished with gratifying success the work which we had marked out for ourselves in Western Asia and among the Himalayas, and were engrossed in the study of the antiquities of India, when my brother was stricken down by fever. As soon as he was sufficiently recovered to resume travel we hastened southward to the island of Ceylon, whose fresh breezes we trusted to restore his shattered health.

We sighted the island after a quick run from Calcutta, but a buffeting storm for three days tossed us about just outside our port without permitting us to enter. Upon the last of those dark days my wearied brother, forbidden the longed-for earthly harbor, entered the haven of eternal rest. With a sad heart I laid the dear companion of my travels to sleep near the cinnamon-groves of the fair

INTRODUCTION.

. IV isle, with the tropic palms that he loved so well shadowing his grave. Had my brother been spared to aid in the preparation of this volume, it would certainly have been im pressed with an altogether different character. As it is, it embodies what most engaged my own interest aud most deeply traced my recollection. The title page of the volume indicates the field which offered to me the greatest attractions for special investigation. It will be noticed that this work is in no proper sense a narration or recital of personal experiences; it has been my purpose to render it something of more permanent value. It would have been a com paratively easy task to edit a diary. But my aim has been to regard the jottings of my note -books simply as hints to be used or rejected as they con tributed, or failed to contribute, to the general sym metry of a preconceived plan.

Besides the aid of my own journals, I have received many suggestions from the carefully kept diary of my brother. The various other sources whence I have drawn to enrich these pages, and the different authorities upon which I have at times depended, will be found sufficiently indicated by the marginal references. I wish, how ever, in this place to make particular mention of Layard's " Nineveh and Babylon," Rawlinson's " Five

INTRODUCTION.

. V Ancient Monarchies," Binning's " Travels in Persia," and Dr. Butler's " Land of the Veda" — works which as guides have been of invaluable service to me. One word in respect of the illustrations : a num ber are from sketches made by the writer; others are taken from photographs; and some are selec tions from material gathered by my Publishers. In this connection I must not fail to acknowledge my deep obligations to Miss Ida C. Miller for the work of her skillful pencil, and for the assistance which her ready pen has lent in the preparation of the volume for the press. To Mr. W. H. Bottsford I wish also to express my indebtedness for artist services. And now I give the volume, just as it is, into the hands of the public. I can not honestly seek im munity from criticism by pleading haste, for I have taken time for the preparation of the work, have written with care, and have subjected the whole to a thorough revision.

It may seem at times that the writer has strayed from his subject to follow some philosophic suggestion ; but, as Felix Jones remarks, it is pardonable to step out of one's path to pluck a flower, provided one do not stop to dig it out by the roots. It is also sometimes extremely necessary for us to go beneath externalities if we would discover the lessons which are intended for us. Thus to the

INTRODUCTION.

. VI superficial observer there is much of discouragement in Asia ; but to the thoughtful student there is more of encouragement. Upon the whole, our observations among the peoples and the scenes of the East have strengthened our faith in human nature, and exalted our hopes in respect of human destiny. We have certainly seen to what depths of degradation human ity may sink ; but we have also seen how ever-present and responsive are its susceptibilities of improvement. We have, moreover, gained a new under standing of the infinite power of religious beliefs and theories of government in shaping the destinies of a people. We have learned somewhat of the meaning of the successions of history, and have had opened to us grander vistas into the past of the nations of the East. If, when viewing the future of those warm and impulsive races in the new light thus gained, we have written Avith the glow of enthusiasm, we may hope for indulgence ; for we have written in the firm conviction that the dayspring of a future far more glorious than that past — the reminiscences of whose splendor has been borne down to us by so many noble monuments — is already tinting the sky of the Orient. P. V. N. M. Columbus, O., November, 1874, CONTENTS.

Chapter I. The Ruins Of Palmyra

Contrast between Eastern and Western Asia. — Remains of Empire in the Latter. — History of Palmyra. — Isolation of the Ruins. — Preparations for our Journey. — Oasis of Damascus. — A Bedawy Escort. — An Excitement. — Our Guard Strengthened. — A Night upon the Desert. — First Glimpse ofthe Ruins. — Walls of Palmyra. — Extent of the Remains. — Mausoleums. — The Great Colonnade. — Beautiful Temples. — Overturned Altars. — The Triumphal Arch. — The Temple of the Sun. — The Walls of the Court. — Magnificent Gateway. — Beauty of the Desecrated Shrine. — Tower-tombs. — Subterranean Sepulchres. — The Castles. — An Impressive View Page 15

Chapter II. Ruined Cities Of Northern Syria

Departure from Palmyra. — Lost on the Desert. — Arab Sagacity. — Vale of Cœle- Syria. — Ancient Cities. — The Pathway of Armies. — Arab Plowing. — Site of Arethusa. — Fields of Basalt. — Hamath. — The Hamath Inscriptions. — Alone on the Desert. — Ruins of Apamea. — Grand Colonnade. — Condition of the Ruins. — Valley of the Orontes. — Ruined City of El-Bara. — Palaces. — Tombs. — Other Ruined Cities. — Cause of Depopulation 44

Chapter III. Across The Mesopotajiian Plains

Description of Aleppo. — A Curiosity Shop. — Malum Alepporum. — Our Departure for Nineveh. — Artificial Tells. — A Superstition of the Desert. — State of the Country. — The Euphrates. — A Native Ferry. — Town of Birijic. — A Refreshing Scene. — Incidents of Travel. — Ur of the Chaldees. — A Lonely Cemetery. — Ruins of Verran Sherahr. — Rock-built Tombs.— Bedawin Hospitality. — Meteorological Phenom- CONTENTS. VIII ena— Mardin.— The Castle.— A Grand Outlook.— The Town.—Prot estant Missions. — A Serious Accident. — We Resume our Journey. — Mesopotamian Villages. — Ruins of Dara. — Site of the Roman Town of Nisibis. — Along the Tigris. — Mosul Page 66

Chapter IV. The Ruins Of Nineveh

Contrast between Assyrian and Roman Ruins. — Size of Ancient Nineveh. — Scriptural Argument. — Topographical Evidences. — Nineveh and Babylon each Constructed on a Different Plan. — Condition of the Walls of Nineveh when Seen by the Ten Thousand. — Then- Dimensions. — Outer Fortifications. — The City Gates. — Mound of Koyunjik. — Palace-mounds of the Assyrians and Babylonians. — Debris of the Ninevite Palaces. — Nebbi Yunus. — Moslem Tradition. — General Construction of an Assyrian Royal Residence. — French and English Excavations. — Cuneiform Decipherment. — Chaldæan Tradition of the Deluge. — Nineveh's present Desolation 98

Chapter V. Rafting On The Tigris

Our Kellic. — Floating Down. — River Scenes. — Rapids. — Historical Associations. — Our Crew and Passengers. — The Captain's Reproof. — Our Guard Mohammed. — Praying on a Kellic. — Storms and Delays. — Crossing the River on Inflated Skins for Provisions. — Fatalism. — Botanizing. — Arrival at Tibrit 136

Chapter VI. Rafting On The Tigris Concluded

An Unpremeditated Start. — Attempts to Stop the Runaway Raft. — Rapid Progress toward Bagdad. — A Fearful Night Voyage. — Shooting Rapids in the Darkness. — A Narrow Escape. — Aground on a Submerged Island. — Our Scattered Crew. — Arabs as Swimmers. — An Exciting Landing. — Carried Ashore. — Backshish. — Repairing the Shattered Kellic. — Arab Village of Samarah. — The Minaret. — Extensive Ruins. — An Arab Settlement. — Resume our Voyage. — A Native's Way of Taking Passage. — The Valley of the Tigris. — Babylonia a Gift of the Tigris and Euphrates. — Its Present Desolation. — Change in the Bed of the Tigris. — Scenes along the River. — Arab Villages. — Great Width of the Tigris. — Saratia. — A Village Undermined CONTENTS. IX

Chapter VII. Bagdad

Origin of Bagdad. — The Saracenic Conquest. — Early History of the City. — Oriental Splendor. — Science and Literature. — Decline of the Power of the Caliphs. — Bagdad of To-day. — Site of the City. — Views along the Tigris. — A Railroad. — A Summer Palace. — Governmenthouse. — Hospital. — Coffee-houses. — General View ofthe City. — Streets and Bazaars. — The People. — English Residency. — Courts. — Subterranean Apartments. — Ornamentation of Rooms. — An Indian Prince. — Mosaic Population. — Babel of Languages. — Sabbaths in Bagdad. — Religious Edifices. — Telegraphs. — Steam upon the Tigris. — Modern Improvements Page 174

Chapter VIII. The Ruins Of Babylon

Present Conditnn of Babylonia. — Ancient Canals. — Nahr Malcha. — Former State of Babylonia. — An Oasis. — Mountains of Ruins. — General Appearance of the Site of Babylon. — Palace -Mounds. — El- Kasr. — Babylonian Bricks and Masonry. — A Sculptured Lion. — A Venerable Tree. — View from the Kasr. — Mound of Amran. — Ruins of Neriglissar's Palace. — Walls of the Royal Quarter. — The Hanging Gardens. — The Mujelibee. — Objections to Considering it the Remains ofthe Temple of Belus. — Birs Nimrud. — Description of the Mound. — A Babylonian Temple. — Conflicting Theories respecting the Ruin. — Probable Identification of the Birs with the Tower of Babel. — Chaldæan Traditions. — Fire-blasted Appearance of the Ruins explained. — Designs of the First Builders. — Testimony of the Inscriptions. — The Walls of Babylon. — The Fulfillment of Prophecy 200

Chapter IX. The Lower Tigris And Shat-el-arab

Departure from the City of the Caliphs. — Mounds of Seleucia and Ctesiphon. — Ruins of the White Palace of Khosru. — Sacked by the Saracens. — Its Treasures. — A Royal Persian Carpet. — Madayn. — The Ancient Nahrwan Canal. — A Paradise Transformed into a Desert. — River Scenes. — Mountain Views. — An Unsuccessful Experiment. — Through the Marshes. — A Meandering River. — Amphibious Arabs. — Junction of the Tigris and Euphrates. — Garden of Eden. — The CONTENTS. X Shat-el-Arab.— Tropical Forest.— A Beautiful Water-path.—Amazo nian Scene.— Picture of Arab Life.— Pilgrims from Mecca. — Pilgrim ages and Railroads.— The Steamship Cashmere. — A Wonderful Country.— In the Persian Gulf. Page 254

Chapter X. Caravan Life In Persia

First View ofthe "Land of Roses." — The Town of Bushire. — Startled by a Velocipede. — A Dragoman who Wanted to See the Country. — Persian Mendacity. — A Chdrvadar on Time. — What Xenophon says about Persian Character. — Departure from Bushire. — Traveling by Night. — A Sand- Storm. — Telegraph Line Prostrated. — Brazgoon. — Effects of the Famine. — Dalikee. — The Edge of the Great Plateau of Iran. — Mountain Wildness and Beauty. — A Detention. — A Mountain Trail.— The Pass of Mullook.— The Plain of Khisht.— Moslem Devotions. — The Village of Koonar Tukhteh. — The Pass of Kumaridj. — A Sequestered Spot. — The Plain of Kauzeroon. — The Town. — Persian Way of Advertising. — The Simplon of Persia. — A Lovely Vale. — The Pass of the Old Woman. — Deshti Arjun. — A Geological Phenomenon. — A Lion among our Animals. — Banditti. — Gardens of Shiraz. — Pilgrims Welcomed Home 272

Chapter XI. Shiraz

The Valley of Shiraz. — Distant View of the City. — Streets and Bazaars. — Interior of the Dwellings. — Public Buildings. — Population. — Gardens of Shiraz. — Baghi Now. — Jehan Nema. — Baghi Takht. — The Tomb of Hafiz. — His Odes. — Tomb of Saadi. — Effects of the Famine at Shiraz. — The Fundamental Cause of Asiatic Wretchedness. — The Oriental Doctrine of Isolation. — Lessons ofthe Famine 300

Chapter XII. The Ruins Of Persepolis

Historical Sketch. — Alexander at the Tomb of Cyrus. — Site ofthe Persepolitan Remains. — The Cyclopean Platform. — A Magnificent Stairway. — Grand Propylæum. — Gigantic Wardens. — Stanley and Antiquarians. — A richly Sculptured Staircase. — The Audience Hall of Xerxes. — Hall of the Hundred Columns. — Oriental Hall of Audience. — Ruins of the Palaces of Cyrus, Darius, and Xerxes. — Massive Portals. — Apartments of the Palace. — Nature of the Sculptures. — Rock- CONTENTS. XI hewn Tombs. — Rock-cut Facades. — Remains of the City of Persepo lis. — Fortified Gate. — A Curious Tower. — Rock Tablets Page 319

Chapter XIII. From Shiraz To Cashmere

Departure from Shiraz.— An Attack.— Descent to the Coast.— Od Board the Ethiopia. — Persian Gulf. — Muscat. — Coast of Beloochistan. — Harbor of Bombay. — Great Indian Peninsula Railway.— Over the Ghauts. —Allahabad. — Lahore. — Traveling by Dak. — Bungalows. — Palanquin Travel.— Foot of the Himalayas.— Bhimur.— In the Saddle.— Saidabad. — A Picturesque Valley.— Grand Views.— Naoshera Valley.— Scenery among the Hills. — Ruined Serais. — Great Moguls. — Passage of the Ruttan Pir. — Tropical Forest. — Alpine Scenery. — Poshiana. — An Arab Scene. — A Fractious Animal. — Pass of the Pir Punjab — Coloration of Flowers. — Scenery about Aliabad Serai. — Glimpse of the Vale of Cashmere. — Shapiyon. — Across the Valley. — Encamped in the Gardens of Cashmere 341

Chapter XIV. The Vale Of Cashmere And Its Ruined Temples

Names applied to the Vale. — Moore's " Lalla Rookh." — Beauties of the Valley. — Encircling Mountains. — Passes. — Jhelum River. — Lateral Valleys. — Avenues of Trees. — Akbar's Visits. — Climate of the Vale. — Vegetation. — Fruits. — Roses. — A Sanatarium. — Given up by the English Government. — Influence of Scenery on National Character. — Interesting Ruins. — Temple of Martund. — Other Temples. — Cashmerian Traditions. — Serpent Worship. — Hinduism. — Traces of Greek Art. — Spoliation ofthe Ancient Temples 366

Chapter XV. The City Of Cashmere

Situation. — General Appearance. — Buildings. — Canal Streets. — Boats. — River Scenes. — English Stores. — Bridges. — Maharajah's Palace. — Swiss and Venetian Scenes. — English Visitors. — An Official's Barge. — Cashmerian Amazons. — Bathers. — Relics. — Wood from the Mountains. — Jumna Meshjed. — Maharajah's Bazaar. — Below the City. — Citadel. — Night on the River. — An Eastern Venice. — Gardens of Cashmere. — Shalimar Bagh. — Nishat Bagh. — Isle of Chenars. — Floating Gardens. — Population of Cashmere. — People. — Effects of Climate on Complexion. — Dress. — Character. B CONTENTS. XII — Women. — Thomas Moore. — Manufactures. — Shawls. — Nature as a Teacher Page 388

Chapter XVI. Monuments Of The Great Mogul Empire In India

Descent to the Plains of India. — Change Wrought by the Monsoons. — Multiplicity of Scenes. — Architectural Monuments of the Great Moguls. — Sketch of the Tartar Tribes. — Conquests of Zingis Khan and Timour. — The Mongol Empire in India Compared with the Moorish Kingdom in Spain. — Splendor of the Great Mogul Court. — The Mohammedan Sovereigns of Delhi and the Sepoy Rebellion. — Our Arrival at Delhi. — The Dewani Khass. — Persian and Indian Audience Halls. — Beauty of the Structure. — The Peacock Throne. — Jumna Musjed. — Ruins of Old Delhis. — The Kutub Minar. — Agra. — The Taj Mahal. — The Beauty of this Mausoleum. — Contrasted with that of Zobeide's. — Palace of Akbar. — Pearl Mosque. — Cawnpore and Lucknow. — The Well. — The Relief of Lucknow. — Benares. — Its Temples and Shrines. 414

Chapter XVII. Progress In The East

The Great Moguls. — The English in India. — East India Company. — India as England's Ward. — The Establishment of Order and Good Government. — Railways. — Their Effect on Caste. — Steamship Lines. — Municipal Improvements. — Schools and the Press. — Hinduism. — Influence of Western Science on Eastern Mythologies. — Has there been More than One Centre of Revelation ? — Hinduism versus Christianity. — Shall we Civilize but not Christianize ? — Civilization and Christianity Inseparable. — India's Position in the History of the East. — General Awakening in Asia. — Sclavonic Influence in Central Asia. — Alleged Inferiority ofthe Asiatic Mind. — Religious Instinct of the Oriental. — The Future of Asia viewed in the Light of the Past. — Immobility of Oriental Races. — Cause to be found in their Relio-ious Systems. — Progress not Metamorphosis. — Relations of the West to the East 455