Hawaii: our new possessions. Illustrated, etc

Appendix

CONTAINING THE TREATY OF ANNEXATION TO THE UNITED STATES. BY JOHN R. MUSICK AUTHOR OF THE "COLUMBIAN HISTORICAL NOVELS' Illustrated With Fifty-six Full Page Plates, Containing Over One Hundred Half- Tone Reproductions from Photographs, with Border Decorations by Philip E. Flintoff and Thirty-four Pen Sketches by Freeland A. Carter ALSO A MAP OF THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS Funk & Wagnalls Company NEW YORK AND LONDON Copyright, 1897 By FUNK & WAGNALLS COMPANY.

Preface

Tho many books have been written about the Ha waiian Islands, no American volume has appeared since the recent change in the order of things there. With all that has been published in books and the col umns of the newspapers about Hawaii, people in our Eastern and Middle States know comparatively little about the country. That there exists in the world a place where " No chilling winds, nor poisonous breath" can come, may seem impossible. And yet this is true of Hawaii, for there are no poisonous reptiles or insects, and few poisonous plants in the whole group of islands. The delightful climate, the unsurpassable scenery, the healthfulness and beauty of these islands entitle them to the name of Paradise of the Pacific. They are also of great agricultural and commercial im portance. The interchange of commerce between the islands and this country is valued at fifteen mil lion dollars per annum, and could be increased to seventy-five millions, or perhaps a hundred.

Only one fourth of the agricultural lands of the islands are PROTACE IV in cultivation. There are about one hundred thousand inhabitants on the islands, while they are capable of supporting in comfort half a million or more. While they lack the historical interest of Southern Europe, they are said to surpass it in natural scenery. Small as they are, the greatest active volcano in the world is on one of them. Here is also found the cra ter of the greatest extinct volcano in the world. The people are not savages, and nowhere is life and property more safe. Under the new social and political order of things Hawaii has taken a new start in the world ; her relations to the United States will be closer in the future than they have been in the past, and it is a fitting time that our people should learn more of their history, industries, and mode of liv ing.

I made a journey to each of the islands, visited every point of interest on them, and have endeavored to give a truthful and unbiased representation of the country, its industries, resources, and history. Like all countries the islands have a story, and like all stories this one has two sides; I heard both, and selected what to me seems most reliable. I wish to acknowledge my indebtedness for information used in this volume to Prof . W. D. Alexander, Professor Lyons, Mr. H. M. Whitney, Mr. Thomas G. Thrum, Dr. C. T. Rodgers, Mr. L. D. Timmons

PREFACE.

V of The Star, also to The Pacific Commercial Advertiser and Evening Bulletin of Honolulu, and to Mr. Sereno Bishop, one of the oldest missionaries on the island. Trusting this new candidate for public favor may meet with the success of preceding volumes from the same pen, it is now given to the world. John R. Musick. Kirksville, Mo., September I, 1897.

Chapter I Honolulu Pages

Across the stormy sea — The shadowy priest — Waiting for dawn — Mukapu Point— A school of dolphins — Flying fish — Diamond Head — The bay of Honolulu — Alongside the dock- Hawaiian houses — American power in Hawaii — Native hospitality — History of the founding of Honolulu, . . . i-ii

Chapter II Waikiki And The Pali

Curious rain phenomena — The land of rainbows— Observance of the Sabbath — The blind boy of Hilo — Residences— The roval palm — Waikiki — A home of the king — The ride in the street-car— Half-way bridge — The old plantation — Mr. Evans — At Sans Souci — Characteristics of Robert Louis Stevenson — Talk with a royalist — The lottery plan — The return — Mauka and makai — Climbing Punch Bowl — Lantana — A gang of convicts — Start to the Pali — The use of the telephone — Pack donkeys — Strange sights on the way — The guava — Native washerwoman — The reservoirs — The Lookout House — The gap — A wonderful view — A bit of history. 12-27

Chapter III Society In Honolulu

A pessimist — Native standard — Marital relations loosely held — Some troubles of the early missionaries— The sailor element — A more hopeful prospect — A typical Hawaiian love-letter — The Social Science Association— Church societies — Mrs TABLE OF CONTENTS PAGES Dole's receptions— President Dole's residence— The Presi dent's democratic way of living— At the home of the Presi dent—Comparison with George and Martha Washington— The story of Afong — Honolulu society cosmopolitan, . 28-39

Chapter IV Missionaries

Broad use of the term "missionary" — Who is a missionary?— Anti-missionaries— Hawaiian mythology — The goddess Pele — Sacrifice of human life — The tabu system — Cruelty of kings and chiefs — Destruction of the idols — First American missionaries — Kapiolani defying the goddess Pele — Prayers to Jehovah — Rev. Titus Coan — A baptismal day — Characteristics of Dr. Coan — The story of Rev. Kapu — Rev. S. L. Desha — Congregationalists — Presbyterians — Methodists — Christians — Mormons— Episcopal churches — Kihara of the Japanese— M. E. Church— The Catholics— Bishop Ropert— The bishop's plain way of living — Extent of the work of the Catholics— The advantage of the missionary to the native — An agnostic silenced, ....... 40-55

Chapter V Thanksgiving

Hawaii American — The proclamation — Political prisoners — Some comments — The defiant rebels — Thanksgiving morn — An act of mercy — A military display — History of the Hawaiian flag — Forming for the parade — Cursing the P. G. 's — The newsboys' treat — Church services, .... 56-64

Chapter VI Customs, Habits, And Manners Of The Natives

The Kanaka — A failure at the head of any business — As an inter-island sailor — Hawaiian carpenters — The sea his home — Taro — Food supply — Leisure — Easy means of procuring food —Making poi— Poi, the national dish— Hawaiian method of roasting pig— A fisherman— Surf-riding— The surf-board- Ancient Hawaiian games — Hawaiian boys diving for nickels —Fighting sharks— Superstition in fish-hooks— The tapa PAGES — Horses — Cowboys — Communistic— The luau — Prepara tions for the feast— The imu or Hawaiian oven— Hula dancers 65-80

Chapter VII Voyage To Molokai

At the dock— A fight— Our departure— The stranger at night- Reflections — Bunking on deck — Two ropes for a roof — Asleep — The shower — Driven below — Senator Waterhouse and Judge Wilcox— Shark stories— Off Molokai— Lights along the shore — At anchor, 81-90

Chapter VIII The Lepers

Leprosy — When it first appeared — Segregation — The settlement — The outlaw leper of Kauai — A pathetic leper story — Going ashore — The leper band — A fingerless hand — Disfigured faces — The guest house — "Welcome to Molokai" — Surrounded by lepers — Leprosy more fatal to children — Some horrible cases — Experimenting by inoculation— Lepers' hospitality — Kalaupapa — The mount — The journey to Kalawao — Baldwin's home for boys — The procession of lepers — Brother Joseph Dutton — Visiting the schoolrooms — Death in the hospital — Father Damien 's grave — Return to Kalaupapa — The poem of the blind leper boy, 91-109

Chapter IX Cast Away

Nathaniel, the leper, on the Goto cure — A wreck — The captain's escape — His successful dash to the ship — The messenger from Kalawao — Daring feat of Hikiau, the surfswimmer — The dash to Kalawao— Surrounded by lepers — Escape cut off — The mad gallop to Waikolu— A steep descent — The wild sea — The slow horse — Left behind among the lepers — Return to Kalaupapa — Resigned to our fate — The good sisters Cassentia and Vinsentia — The lepers' serenade — An uneasy night — Early astir— The sea still running high —Our final resolution— Climbing the Pali— March to Kalae —A feast — March to Kaunakakai— Our good ship in harbor — Getting on board — Friends sent to search for us, . . 110-122 X

Chapter X Voyage To Maui Pages

Former importance of the island— Resemblance to a human head —The Claudine of the Wilder Steamship Company— Passing Diamond Head— Some legal talent— Midnight at Lahaina —Going ashore— The former capital of Maui— Location of village— Residence of the king— The rendezvous for whalingfleets— No hotel— The Lahainaluna Seminary— At Kahului— An unprepossessing town — Mrs. Waldvogel — The Benners The ride to Paia— Mr. Colville calls— The Paia plantation —Irrigation 123-131

Chapter XI The Midnight Journey To The House Of The Sun

Return to the planter's office — The Benners again — Arrangements for the ascent — At Mr. Colville's — Lunch — The start — Jenny — Manuel the guide — Jenny's peculiar idiosyncrasies — Manuel's riata — An elegant road and romantic scenery — A gloomy prospect — Bullock wagons — At the cross-roads — A long wait — News from the Benners — The two tourists — The Chinese tailor — Arrival at last — The ascent begins — Wild turkeys — Mountain scenery — At Olinda — The midnight start — Shivering with cold — An awful ride — The white bull — The morning star — The summit — The stone house — A bottomless pit — Dawn — Wonderful cloud effects — A scene of untold splendor, 132-146

Chapter XII Wailuku And Iao Valley

A wide-awake Kanaka — The Wailuku hotel — Arrival of the Benners — Departure up Iao valley — Enchanting scenery — The boatswain bird — The battle-ground — Ancient burial-place of kings — A shower — A pretty picture — Rev. Kapu's sermon — An earthquake— Ruins of a heathen temple— The Wailuku sugar-mill — The Asiatic question — The pernicious contract-labor system— The postmaster's views— Miss Morris, the missionary, and a Chinese school— A Chinese professor- Curious ways of recitation— The study of Confucius. . 147-157

Chapter XIII Down The Coast To Hilo Pages

The ride to Maalaea Bay — The steamship Kinau — Bags of corn, live pigs, and poultry — The trusty pilot — A night voyage — News from America — Cheers for Tom Reed — Arrest of conspirators — Night voyage — Landing at Mahukona — Unloading heavy machinery — The clear water — Big fish — Enthusiastic Kanakas — Under way — The Union Mill — Kahala — Scenes on the shore — Mauna Kea's snow-capped peak — Talk on deck— Mr. Brown and Mr. Simms express their views — Waimea — Difficulty in landing — Going ashore on a derrick — Miss Stevens drowned — A native's courage — The rain-cloud over Hilo — The gorges on shore — Darkness — Hilo Bay — Landing — At the Hilo hotel — The annexationists' flag — Love of America 158-169

Chapter XIV The Volcano

Through ohia woods and fern forests — Japs and Chinamen traveling — Distributing the mail — Post-boxes — Scenes along the volcano road — Half-way House — Oven-shaped caverns — At the Volcano House — Hissing vapor from seams in the rock — Albert the guide — On the way to the crater — Dore's paintings of Dante's Inferno — Crossing the chasm-riven lava plain — The lava paddock — Flames leaping from seams — The guide lights a cigarette — Burning shoes on hot lava — The eternal fires of Hale Mau Mau — Wild waves of molten lava — Run for your lives ! — The blowholes — Destruction of the shed — Flames one hundred and sixty feet high — Reading by the light forty miles away — "Don't tell me there is no hell, for I have seen it," 170-179

Chapter XV Stories At The Volcano House

The old book — Accounts of the volcano — Some narrow escapes — How the chasm was made — A desperate fight with a wild bull — Battle with a wild boar — The story of a diver — Story of the great tidal wave and the shark 180-188 TABLE OF CONTENTS

Chapter XVI

A NIGHT AT PAHALA PAGES Departure on a long journey — Descending the mountains — Some evidences of civilization — A guide's idea of authorship — The home of a hermit— Following the telephone line— Wild cattle —Three Japs— At Pahala— Among the Chinese— Chinese accommodations— A Selkirk— Skipping the rope— Lodgings near the pig-pen — Mysteries of the adjoining apartment — The Hawaiian bloodthirsty filibuster— Sacrilege— An early riser 189-197

Chapter XVII

A NIGHT ON THE MOUNTAINSIDE Harry, my little guide — Departure— The road by the sea — A rough steed — Pursued by the truant officer — In a pilikia — At Waiohinu — Sparkling water — Mr. Meinecke's hospitality — A warning— Wild scenery — Chinese muleteers — The approach of night — A threatening storm — Kuhuku ranch — Colonel Norris, the missionary hater — Hospitality denied — Faithful Harry — Crossing the aa-fiow — Blackness and death — Whitening bones — The old deserted house — The camp-fire — Difficulties of obtaining water — Forethought of friends — Saddles for pillows — A midnight attack from wild dogs — Replenishing the fire — A long night — Dawn at last, . 198-213

Chapter XVIII At Kailua

An early start — More signs of life — In the great forest — The wild boar — At Hookena — The friendly natives — "The only coffee-plantation in Kona" — "The missionaries will ruin the country" — Mr. Davis's plantation — Journey through the coffee-lands — The yield — At the Greenwell orange farm — At Kailua —Farewell to Harry— The Hawaiian Tea and Coffee Company — Other coffee-dealers — Hopes for the Scottish princess —No love for P. G.'s— Living in a deserted house— Native fishermen and fisherwomen— Children diving for nickels- George McDougall's story— Advantages for a young man —Sunday in the old house— Loading cattle on the W. G. Hall — A sailor's daring feat — The return, . . . 214-229

Chapter XIX Holidays At Honolulu Pages

A summer Christmas eve — Tin horns and general din — Christmas morn — Strawberries — Church decorations — Opium-smugglers caught — The holiday week— Speculation as to pardons — New Year's day — Pardon to all remaining prisoners — President Dole's reception — Mrs. Dole, Mrs. Lawrie, Mrs. Paul Neuman, and other ladies receive at the Y. M. CA. — Close of New-Year's services, .... 230-235

Chapter XX Voyage To Kauai

The Mikahala — How a bucking-mule was disgusted — The jolly mate— Off to sea — An aged Hibernian — Dr. Crane — Indecision as to landing-place — The rough channel — The dream — Approach to Nawiliwili — Nawiliwili — Landing — The stage — Journey to the hotel — The beautiful Southern Cross — Another nap — Awakened for breakfast — Dr. Goodhue — A delightful morning ride — The scenery on the route — The American flag flying in honor of Americans — At the home of Dr. Goodhue — The poet doctor — Dr. Crane's arrival, 236-242

Chapter XXI Spouting Horn, Golgotha, And Barking Sands

A drive to the beach — Boyhood home of President Dole — The Spouting Horn — The Roaring Rock — Mrs. Goodhue breaking in a green Jap — The journey to the Golgotha — Digging for skulls — A skull five hundred years old — The caves of Koloa— Kaluahonu, or place where the turtle was cooked — Start to the Barking Sands — Gay and Robinson — The scenery — Blood-red soil — At Waimea — Home of Rev. Massey — Rainy day — The Barking Sands and mirage of Kauai — A weird midnight funeral — Cook's first landing-place — Ruins of the fort, 243-260

Chapter XXII Picnic At Hanapepe Falls

A lovely dawn — Delay in our departure — On the road — Antone the driver — Lawai valley — Kalahao and Wailua valleys — The The The PAGES Hanapepe valley— Leaving the carriage— On horseback- Descending into the valley — A wonderful water flume — Kaa lala Nuio Maui— Crossing the Hanapepe River twenty times —The bridge— The waterfall— The rainbow— Lunch in the shadow of the rock— Return— An aged man— Kaheli— The flybrush— The robber baron 261-272

Chapter XXIII Our Journey To Hanalei

party— Ride to Lihue— Breezy books— A halt— Crossing Wailua— Kapa, Kealia, Anahola— Mistaken for a circus- Story of Hoary Head— The spear-hole through the mountain —The pirate ferryman— The shell beach— The caves— The ladder — Makano Point, or Fireworks Mountain — A sevenmile gallop — Return to the beach 273-287

Chapter XXIV

A DISGUSTED PARSON ; Rev. Mr. Massey — The guide and driver— Professor Alex ander's school — A picnic in a wood-box — Search for the falls — The guide acts strangely — A rain-storm — The halt on the precipice — Wandering on foot — The iron house in the forest — The guide recovers himself — Still searching for the falls — Almost a dangerous collision — A pilikia — Crossing the Wailua River — The parson disgusted — We desert the guide — Discover the falls by accident — The guide's very satisfactory explanation — The return after night, . . . 288-302

Chapter XXV The Ostrich Farm

A NIGHT AT SEA Portuguese lad and pony — The gallop across the plain — Ascending the mountain — The mountaintop — Wild goats — The Farm — Mr. and Mrs. Turner — Visiting the ostriches — Challenge to a combat by John Sullivan — The habits of an ostrich— Some old theories exploded — The ostriches' nest — The ostriches' food— Their foolishness — Return— Wild storm— Ride to Lihue— High winds— A sea of foam — Em barkation under difficulties— A storm at sea— Shipping seas — My first experience of seasickness — Honolulu once more 303-312

Chapter XXVI Ancient Traditions Pages

Ancient Polynesian mariners — Extract from a paper by Dr Emerson on long voyages — Ancient Hawaiian gods — Traditions of Pele — The Helen of Hawaii — The royal hunchback — Hua, King of Hana — The peasant prince of Hawaii Lono — Cannibals of Halemanu — Other stories and myths, 313-330

Chapter XXVII History, Ancient And Modern

Name of the islands — Unreliable history — Spanish pirates among the islanders — Captain Cook's discovery — His treatment of the natives — Assassination of Cook — Young and Davis — Kamehameha 's conquest — Rights of common people — Young's reward — Destruction of idols — The missionary and anti-missionary parties — The first constitution — England's claims on the islands — The Kamehamehas — Kalakaua's troubled reign — His ambition — His extravagance — Desire for a navy — His loan — His death 331-347

Chapter XXVIII Overthrow Of Monarchy

A dread of return to absolutism — The missionary party — Friendliness of monarchies — Foreign influence — Liliuokalani the hope of the people — A change of manner after her coronation — Fears felt — Expenses of government — Queen's salary — Uneasiness over affairs — Charges of English influence — The queen's cabinet — Trouble over the ministry — The Wilcox-Jones cabinet — The long term of the legislature — The queen's new cabinet — The opium and lottery bills — The new constitution — its purport — The committee of safety — The gathering of arms — The fight in the street — The overthrow of the queen, and commission to the United States to ask for annexation — The part played by Minister Stevens and the Boston, 348-361

Chapter XXIX Commissioner Blount

'S VISIT PAGES Blount's friends in the city assure the patriots they have nothing to fear— The commissioner very close— The British consul alone his confidant— Collecting testimony— The Fourth of July meeting— The luau and hula— Opinion on Blount's report— Great expectations and excitement— The pulling down of the flag— An Englishman's exultation— A permanent government— Fourth of July, .... 362-373

Chapter XXX The Demand Of Minister Willis

Minister Willis — Excitement on his arrival — His visit to the deposed queen— Her refusal to grant amnesty — His report to his government — The queen subsequently relents — The demand on President Dole — His answer — Great alarm — The Philadelphia cleared for action— Fortifying the government building — An officer sends Colonel Soper a strange communication — Awaiting the conflict — Secret conduct of the minister — The message of President Cleveland, . . . 374-386

Chapter XXXI The Uprising Of

1895 The dissatisfaction of some Hawaiians — The intermeddling of designing men — The native — All hope of aid from the United States gone — Landing at Rabbit Island — Designs on Central Union Church — The intended attack — A quiet Sabbath night — Bertleman's place — Death of Carter — Marshaling of hosts — Militia in the field — Battle of Moliili — Bombardment of Diamond Head — Battle of Manoa — Surrender of the ringleaders — Arrest of the ex-queen — Discovery of arms and dynamite bombs on her premises — Trial and conviction of prisoners— The final pardou— Peace 387-406

Chapter XXXII Inter-island Commerce

Navigation from island to island— The sailing-vessels— Growth of sugar industry— The Rolling Moses— Mr. S. G. Wilder. PAGES founder of inter-island steamship navigation — Wilder Steamship Company— J. R. Foster— Captain Godfrey, . 407-414

Chapter XXXIII Railroads And Uninhabited Islands

The plantation railroad— Its general use— The Oahu Railroad —Mr. B. F. Dillingham the Jay Gould of Hawaii— Cost of building the railroad— The scenery— The business — The extension — Traffic — Railroads on Hawaii — Nihau — Lanai — The Island of Birds, 415-426

Chapter XXXIV Other Industries Of Hawaii

Sugar industry — How the cane is planted and grown — The laborsharing system — The Ewa plantation — Visit to the mill— Fulton Iron Works, St. Louis, Mo.— Coffee — Rice — The banana crops — Tropical fruits — Guava jellies — Honolulu Iron Works 427-440

Chapter XXXV Education

Parochial schools — Education compulsory — The English language almost universal — Some teachers who can not speak the English language correctly — The native as impressionable as wax — Advantages given the Hawaiians by the government — Treatment of Hawaiians compared with that of North American Indians — The natives' ability to assimilate knowledge — Hopeful outlook 441-447

Chapter XXXVI England Or America

Future destiny of the islands — Danger from Japan — No return to monarchy — Not strong enough to defend themselves — Too rich not to attract the greed of some nations — Does England want them? — Strange denials — A Hawaiian official's opinions — Alleged conspiracy on the part of the British minister, Captain Rooke, and the ex-queen to turn the islands over to Great Britain — The affidavit of a spy — Does PAGES the United States want them ?— To which country must they belong ?— Wishes of the people— Mr. Nottage's erroneous statements— The natives' idea on annexation— The Royalists' hope— The islands must belong to Great Britain or to the United States 448-464

Chapter XXXVII The Policy Of Annexation

Wealth of the islands— Capable of supporting five times their present population — Only 25 per cent, of the cultivable land under cultivation — Not one tenth of the grazing land utilized—The imports to the islands 76.23 per cent, from America, and 8.16 per cent, from Great Britain — The sugar yield — Consumers of all American products — Homes for nearly half a million Americans — The contract-labor system contrary to American laws — A debt of three millions on the islands — A summary of both sides of the case, . . 465-475

Chapter Xxxviii Aloha

February 1, 1896 — A bright day in Honolulu — The preparation — The A ustralia in port — Adieus — Packing for the voyage — The Oceanic Steamship Company's dock — The crowds — The Hawaiian band discoursing sweet music — Kate Field in a flutter — Minister Willis's recent conduct discussed — The gong — The great whistle — Alohas — The band plays "Auld Lang Syne" — Boys diving for nickels — Floating out in the bay — Handkerchiefs, cheers, and tears — Farewell to Hawaii, 476-483 Appendix A. — Text of the Treaty of Annexation, . 487-497 Appendix B. — Glossary of Hawaiian Words, . . . 498-500 Index ..... 503-520 LIST OF HALF-TONE ILLUSTRATIONS Facing page Hilo Frontispiece Shores of Hilo Bay. Dawn of Day. Diamond Head 5 Honolulu, from Punch Bowl, ....... 9 Night-Blooming Cereus, . . . . . . . 15 Pali Pass, near Honolulu, 21 Entrance to the Residence of President Dole, . . . .34 Residence of Afong, . 38 Missionaries and Clergymen, 45 Rev. S. L. Desha.

Rev. Harcourt W. Peck. Rev. Titus Coan. Rev. H. Kihara. Rev. Sereno E. Bishop. Bishop Ropert. Churches 52 Kaumakapelu Church. St. Andrew's Cathedral. Central Union Church. Street Scenes in Honolulu 63 Native Food, 66 Taro Plant. Natives Making P01 from Taro Plant. Native Style of Eating. Lovers of the Sea, ......... 72 Native Fisherman. Native Surf-Rider. Hula Dancers 79 Leper Settlement, Molokai 96 Lepers 101 The Perilous Cliff, Kalawao, Molokai, LIST OF HALF-TONE ILLUSTRATIONS XX Facing page Scene on the Coast of Maui, *-3P Maui Scenes, I., • J42 Summit of Haleakala. Cloud Scene on top of Haleakala. Maui Scenes, II., 152 Iao Valley. The Needle, Iao Valley. Hilo Scenes, 1 165 Novel Passenger Landing. Rainbow Falls. Hilo Scenes, II 173 Entrance to the Court House. Hilo Gulch. Kakapepe Falls.

Tropical Forest. Volcano Road. Hilo Scenes, III 178 Crossing the Chasm. Lava Hill. The Great Lava Crater. Interior of Volcano House 185 The Great Lava Flow of 1887, 208 Crossing the Lava Flow. Lava Vase. Pack-Donkeys Crossing the Mountains, . . . . . 214 Coffee Culture, . 220 Young Coffee-Field. Coffee-Tree, Three Years Old. Native Coffee-Tree. Monument to Captain James Cook, ...... 224 At Kailua, . 228 Loading Cattle. Native Women Bathing. Natives Mounted on Bullocks. At Koloa 248 Residence of Dr. Goodhue. Government Hospital. 11 The Professor Makes a Discovery." Street Scene. Hanapepe Falls . . 261 Tree Ferns, 27o LIST OF HALF-TONE ILLUSTRATIONS XXI Facing page Hanapepe, 278 "The Circus Came to Town." Ferry at Kalikiwai. Hanapepe Village. Wailua Falls, Kauai . . 301 Ancient Hawaiian Temple and Idols, ...... 316 Ancient Hawaii, .......... 332 Ancient Hawaiian War Canoe.

Captain Cook's First View of the Hawaiian Island.;. Liliuokalani, Queen of Hawaii, 1891-1893 348 S. B. Dole, President of the Republic of Hawaii, . . . 352 Revolutionary Scenes, ......... 356 Company of Citizen Guards. Crew of the United States Battleship Boston. The Queen's Guards Mustered Out of Service, .... 362 Palace, Now Executive Building, ...... 368 Members of the Constitutional Convention, .... 373 President Dole and His First Cabinet, 382 Revolutionary Scenes, 384 Part of Company E Guarding the Capitol. Fortifying Against the Philadelphia. President Dole Proclaiming the Republic of Hawaii, . . 38S Washington Place, Residence of ex-Queen Liliuokalani, . . 391 Revolutionary Scenes, 396 Citizens' Guard. Defending the Capitol. Hawaiian Fruit Culture 410 Bread-Fruit. Pineapples. Alligator Pears.

Bananas. Transportation, .......... 421 Oahu Railroad. Kohala Railroad. Layson Island Scenes 424 The Home of Myriads of Birds. The Eggs are Gathered in Wheelbarrows. Seal and Turtles. The Sugar Industry, 1 432 Cutting Cane, Ewa Plantation. Interior of a Sugar-Boiling House. LIST OF HALF-TONE ILLUSTRATIONS Facing page The Sugar Industry, II • • ■ 43° Men Returning from Work, Ewa Plantation. Hauling Sugar-Cane, Ewa Plantation. Plowing Rice-Fields with Chinese Oxen. Education 444 Kamehameha School. St. James College. Honolulu High School. Types of Native Women, ........ 452 Native Girl Decorated for Departure from Home. Native Woman. Typical Ancient Hawaiian. Fruits and Blossoms 469 Mangoes. Papaya Tree Fruit. Magnolia Blossoms. Yucca Blossoms. Summer and Sunshine, 476 Cocoanut Grove. Old Plantation.

Pearl Harbor. LIST OF PEN SKETCHES Page Chapter Initial . . . i Japanese Waitresses, 7 The Blind Boy of Hilo .13 The Royal Mausoleum, ...!.... 24 Hawaiian Cowboys 76 Hawaiian Sailor, .......... 85 "Hikiau, a Large Bewhiskered Native," 114 "The Train Lay in Waiting for Us," 129 Chinese Tailor 135 "Spears of Shark's Teeth and Deadly War-Clubs," . 150 Chinese Vegetable Venders. 168 "Queer Little Houses, like Ground-Bird's Nests," . . 172 The Guide 174 "The Bull-Fight," 184 "Hawaii's Most Dangerous Filibuster, " ..... 196 Colonel Norris, .......... 206 "I Have the Only Coffee-Plantation in Kona," .... 217 "The Missionaries Will Ruin the Country," .... 218 "A Half Tramp and Half Backwoodsman," .... 220 "The Tatar Ferryman," 281 "Dr. Crane Tried to do the Circus Act, " 285 "Pilikia, Pilikia, " 299 Ostriches 304 "The Wind was Blowing Furiously," 311 A Pair of Idols 326, 327 Hawaiian Coat of Arms 345 Native Boat-Builders 361 "The Unoccupied Throne," . 378 Weapons of the Revolution. 390 Steamer Kauai, 412 Girl on Boat, 447 Hawaiian Postage-Stamps 471 Tailpiece 483 Map of the Hawaiian Islands, . 5°° -HAWAII-

Chapter 1

f Honolulu had crossed a stormy sea. There had been gales, fogs, accidents, and illness, but after a long tempestuous voyage we awoke early one morning to find our good ship Australia entering a new harbor, while a new world still enshrouded in darkness lay before us. It was still dark when I awoke and hastened to the upper deck. The sea was almost smooth, and a gentle breeze was waft ing us toward land. Groping my way to the seat just before the main skylight, I sat down and tried to pierce the darkness with eyes still heavy from sleep. For a while I thought myself the only passenger on deck, but I was mistaken, for as the gray tints of dawn began to spread over the sur face of the now tranquil waters I made out the form of iman. It was the priest, Father Pamphile de Veus- HAWAII ter, on his way to give his life service to the lepers on dread Molokai.

No doubt he had come on deck, that in the darkness and silence he might offer up one more prayer to God before he left the outside world to dwell among the afflicted and unclean. That venerable man had spent nearly the entire voyage on the upper deck. Rarely did the wind blow so hard or the waves roll so high as to keep him below. With his breviary and rosary, he could be seen at nearly all hours seated on one of the stationary benches engaged in his devotions. As day dawned, and the dark outlines of the silent priest became more and more distinct, a murmur of voices arose from below. The passengers were hur riedly tumbling out of their berths and dressing. Two bells struck shortly after I reached the deck, and a few minutes later Senator Waterhouse of Honolulu, who was regarded as an authority on the islands, came up and said we were approaching Oahu.