Pen and Pencil Sketches, being the Journal of a tour in India

Preface

. A British Sage has pronounced that ' every ' man, who will take the trouble of describing ' in simple language the scenes of which he * has been a spectator, can afford an instruc 1 tive and amusing narrative.' No such public spirited motive, however, influenced the pen or pencil of the writer of the following pages. On the contrary, the manuscript journal and portfolio, from which these slight and unpre tending ' Sketches of a Tour' have been well nigh verbatim and lineatim extracted, were most selfishly and unambitiously scribbled for his own amusement, and (undutiful confession !) as a sort of promised sop held out to allay epistolary expectations at home : and it was not until a year after his return to England, that, prompted by the encouragement of per haps partial friends, and finally rendered des perate by what may almost be said to have amounted to a paternal mandate, he found himself — correcting the proofs.

PREFACE.

. He has simply described scenes and cha racters as they appeared, incidents as they occurred, and anecdotes as they were related to him. The number of engravings being necessarily restricted, he has for the most part selected those bearing on Indian sporting, as presenting more of novelty to the English eye than the more hackneyed sub jects of landscape. Should the reader then be disposed, in some idle hour, to accompany the Author in his flying tour through India, he is hereby pro mised, if not ' Good Entertainment,' at least Expeditious Travelling;' — and though he fail to be satisfied with his vehicle, he may see enough of an interesting country to in duce a wish for a second journey — under the guidance of a more able conducteur. GLOSSARY. Anna A coin — the 16th part of a rupee. Ankoos Goad to drive the elephant.

Bungalow Thatched house. Bhause Short-winged hawk. Bheiree Lonff-winsred do. Begum Mahomedan princess. Bunneer Shop-keeper. Bowlee A well. Bagheecha Fruit garden. Bund Embankment. Burkindass Armed attendant. Burra Sahib Great man. Chief. Buckshees A gift. Bhistey Water-carrier. Budjerow Decked passage-boat. Beauliah Small decked boat. Chobdar Mace-bearer. Cummerbund Waist-cloth. Cheraug Small Indian camp lamp. Choor ! Choor ! Stop thief! Chokee Police station. Chuprassee Upper servant. Charpoy Low bed, or stretcher. Chupatties Unleavened cakes. Chowrie Fly-flapper, formed of the tail of a Thibet cow, and only used by persons of high rank. Chick Thin curtain, made of thread and strips of bamboo. Chout One-fourth of the revenue claimed by conquerors of the soil. GLOSSARY. X Chunam Cement made of shells.

Coolie Man of low caste. Dak Travelling post in palankeen. Dak Hnrkarah Post messenger. Dewanee IiMs Hall of audience. Durbar Indian lev£e or council. Dekkanee Belonging to the Deccan, a province in India. Dhallee Basket of garden-stuff. Fakir Holy mendicant. Florikan Bird ofthe bustard tribe. Guddee '. Hindoo throne. Gongwalas Villagers. Gurrah Earthenware vessel. Gram Species of vetch. Ghoout Mountain pony. Goru Teacher, or priest. Gliirree Name of a small river. Guzzul or Gazele .... An Erotic ode. Hackery Cart. Houdah Anglice — elephant's castle. Haremzadeh Savage — literally Filho da Puta. Hakim Physician. Hurkarah Messenger. Hookam Order or command. Hafiz The Horace of the Persians. Jheel Lake. Jemadar Sepoy serjeant— upper servant. Jhool Elephant's housings. Jaghire Territory. Jampaun Mountain sedan-chair.

Jat Race or tribe. Jehanum Pluto's realm. Kookaree Knife worn by the Nepaulese. Kiiodabund ! Maraj ! . . Titles of respect. Khauaut Wall of a tent. GLOSSARY. XI Kuskus A fragrant grass. Khunsamah .......... Butler. Khalimuts Bards. Kutwaal Police officer. Kucke Barking deer. Keemcab Brocade. Kitmutgar Table attendant. Killar A fortress. Kurwar Coarse cloth. Khilaut Dress of honour. Kutcherrie Court of justice. Lai Purdah Great red curtain. Lai Sherab Claret. Mahout Elephant's driver. Musnud Mussulman throne. Mut Temple. Michaun Platform of bamboo. Mussalgee Torch-bearer. Minar Anglice, minaret. Musjed Anglice, mosque — Mahomedan place of worship. Maungee Boatswain. Mooluck Kingdom. Mussuck Sheep-skin waler-bag. Nullah Brook, or small river. Nauch Indian dance. Nauch Log Dancers. Nuzzar An offering, or gift of homage.

Nusseeb Fate. Paun Betel-nut. Paudan Vessel holding paun. Patarras A pair of boxes slung on a bamboo. Pal Servants' tent. Pariah . In this sense, a wild dog. Purdah Curtain. Punkah Large fan hung from the deling. GLOSSARY. XII Puharrees Mountaineers. Pillau, Khawaub Eastern dishes, almost as well known as curry. Qui-hi or Koee-hui, Who's there ? or, Who waits ? — a summons for servants in Bengal, and applied as a sobriquet to the Anglo-Bengaleese. Ram-Ram ! Hindoo salutation. Routee Sleeping tent. Sirdar-bearer Head bearer. Shuter-suwar Camel courier. Shikkaree Native hunter. Seikh Hindoo sect. Shemianah Canopied entrance. Serwans Camel drivers. Syces Indian grooms. Suwarree A cavalcade. Suwar Horseman or trooper. Serai Public building for the reception of caravans or travellers. Sahib A gentleman— Sir !

Sunderbunds Forest tract in the Delta of the Ganges. Suppoose Silver or brazen chimney of the hookah. Sircar A native writer. Schroff Banker. Tom-tom Indian drum. Tattee Skreen of grass placed in a window, and cooled by water. Toofaun Hurricane. Tope A grove. Tumasha Grand display. Vina Species of guitar. Vakeel Ambassador. Videri A dark-coloured compound metal. Zenana Seraglio. CONTENTS OF VOLUME THE FIRST. Chapter I. Palankeen-travelling — Rogonathpore — Hazarebaug — Sortie of tigers — Journey resumed — Benares — Allahabad — Hermitage of a Fakir — Haut gong — Cawnpore — Onah — An Anglo-Indian camp — Khamutgunge — Young Prince of Lucknow — Exchange of presents — Noelgunge — Futty gunge — The King of Oude — Lucknow — Entry into Lucknow — Break fast with the King — Dil Koosha — Constantia — Lucknowee field-sports — Mussulman manners — The Imaun-Barree — Royal feast — Fireworks — British Resident's country-seat — Wild beast fights — The King's con juror — Leave Lucknow — Naubutgunge — Nannemow — Merun-ke-Serai — Ruins of Kanoge — Futtyghur — Antelope hunt page 1 — 51 Chapter II.

Tomb of Etameid Doulah— The Taj-Mahal— Infatuation of a Fakir- Fort of Agra — Secundra — Futtypore Sicree — Acbar's audience-chamber — Faithfull's Redoubt — Interview with the Rajah — Bhurtpore — Indian dramatic exhibition — Antelope snaring — Muttra — George Thomas — Al lyghur — Belaspore — A day's sporting — Putpergunge — Delhi : the Jum na Musjed — Musjed of Rushin al Doulat — Visit to the Mogul — The Dewanee Khas — Interview with the Great Mogul — Visit to Rajah Kul lian Sing — The Hindoo and the Mussulman — Bulwant Sing — The Nautch — Koutub Minar — Tomb of Humaion — Breakfast among tombs — Koutub Sahib — Mirza-Selim — Gigantic observatory — Native horses — Extraordinary leap — Shumshah l)eene — Alfina — Paniput — Kurnal — Sharalee — Sirdhana — Meerut — Daranugger — News of a tiger — Sketch of Sancho — Tiger hunting 52 — CONTENTS.

XIV Chapter III. Nujeebabad— The Dhag tree— Tiger hunt— Asofghur— The Ganges— Hurdwar— A north-wester— Booreah — The Seikhs— Bussee — Indian pilgrims— Ruins of Sirhind — Rajah of Patialah— Arms of the Seikhs — Dancing girls— Visit the Rajah — Seikh war-quoits — Loudiana— Runjeet Singh— Embassy from Runjeet Singh— The kite-dance— Retrograde march — Rajpoorah — Umballa — Mustaphabad — A family group — Boo reah — Hurdwar fair — Bathing in the Ganges — Indian Robber — Mode of bargaining — Native hunters page 119 — 173 Chapter IV. Valley of Deyra — Tiger hunting — Deyra Doon — Mr. Shore — Llan dowr — Missouree — Kalunga — Peleon — Synspore — Futtypore — Raj Ghaut — Kearda Doon — Wild elephants — Nahun — Jytuck — Rajah of Nahun — Nahon to Bemetti — Suran — Mountain matrimony — March towards Subbatoo — Boor's Peak — Subbatoo — Sahree — Simla — The Chota Bursat — Embassy from Runjeet Singh , , , . 174—252 Chapter V. Khotghur — Fargoo — Parellee — Tour iu the Surmour mountains — Khote-kie — Koopa mountain — Jubul — Deora — Saree— Rooroo — Moun tain tour — Chergong — Dogolee— Roole — Birch region — The Shattoul Pass — Retreat from the Pass — Krassoo — Kushaine — Khotgur — Nack andeh — Mutteanah — Simla — Subbatoo — Bahr 253 — 315 Chapter VI.

Plains of Hindostan — Munny-Majra — Syphabad — Patialah — Seikh Principalities — Pewur — Khytul — Seikh States — Jheend — Narnound Canal of Feroze Shah — Hansi — Skinner's horse — Head-quarters camp March towards Delhi — Mohim — Mundeena — Rhotuk — Seeta-Ram-ka- Serai — Delhi — The Chandee Chowk — The Mogul — March towards Meerut — Boor-Barore— The Begum Sumroo— March towards Morada bad — Ghurmuktesur, on the Ganges ..... . j]6 DIRECTIONS FOR PLACING THE PLATES. VOLUME THE FIRST. To face page Elephant charging the Tiger .... Title Starting for a Tiger Hunt ... .1 The Chetab on hackerie . . . . .48 The Death of the Antelope . . . . 51 The Tiger's attack on the Elephant . . . .116 The Family of Seiks (wood cut) . . . 132 The Quoit-thrower (wood cut) . . . 1 40 Shooting Tiger from Platform . . . .183 Combermere Bridge at Simla .... 241 Palace of the Chief of Khotakie . . . .259 Sangah in the Vale of Dogolie ' . . . 281k Travelling in the Himalaya Mountains . . .313 The Lion and the Elephant . . . .331 The Map to be placed at the end of Volume I. VOLUME THE SECOND.

Frontispiece. Scene near Hurdwar. ... 1 A party of sportsmen enter a marsh in search of a tiger. Three of them (sportsmen), together with the pad-elephanta, proceed in line to beat the covert, whilst a fourth occupies a commanding station (in the left distauce ofthe picture), in order to intercept the retreat of the tiger to the wood-jungle. In the foreground, under a cotton-tree, a male and female tiger are in the act of devouring a hog-deer, when they are suddenly disturbed by the approach of one ofthe sportsmen — the female retires sulkily, while the male seems inclined to resent intrusion. In the distance is the first range of the Himalaya mountains near Hurdwar. Mahratta Chief — distant view ofGwalior . . .63 Elephants crossing a Nullah . . . • 115 Ferry on the Ganges . . . . .169 Travelling Dak ..... 226 Shikkaree (wood cut) ..... SKETCHES IN" INDIA.

Chapter I

The Commander-in-chief having determined upon a tour of inspection of the military stations in the Upper Provinces, during the cooler months of the year, his Lordship left Calcutta, with two or three officers of his suite, on the 1st of November, 1827. The remainder of the general and personal staff were directed to join him by the end of the month, at Cawnpore, a considerable town and station, about six hundred and fifty miles from Calcutta, where the Head-quarters Camp was to be assembled previous to the commencement of our march. The Daks, .. e., posting in palankeens, being duly laid by the Postmastergeneral, Vol. I. B [Ch. I. 2 PALANKEEN-TRAVELLING. it was arranged that we should travel in parties of three, one day intervening between each party, in order to allow time for the bearers at the several stages to return to their posts.

Captain Macan (the Persian interpreter), Colonel Dawkins (a brother aide-de-camp), and myself, formed one pf the travelling trios * and snugly ensconced in our palan keens, we turned our backs upon the city of palaces, on the evening of the 20th of November. To those uninitiated into the mysteries of Indian travelling, the prospect of a journey of six hundred miles, night and day, in a hot climate, inclosed in a sort of coffin-like re ceptacle, carried on the shoulders of men, is somewhat alarming ; but to one more accustomed to that method of locomotion, the palankeen would, perhaps, prove less fatiguing and harassing, for a long journey, than any other conveyance. The horizontal or reclining position is naturally the most easy to the body ; and Ch. I.] 3 ROGONATHPORE. the exhaustion consequent upon a journey in the heat of the day, generally secures to the traveller as much sleep during the cooler hours of the night, as the frequent interrupt tions of the bearers at the several stages will allow him to enjoy.

I had laid in a good store of tea, sugar, and biscuits, a novel, some powder and shot, a gun, and a sword, and plenty of blankets, as a defence against the coldness of the night. Our baggage consisted of a dozen boxes (patarras) ap pended to bamboos, and carried by men : these, with two torch-bearers (mussalgees) to each palankeen, completed our cavalcade. On the 22nd, at four p. m., we reached Rogonathpore, a small village, near which is situated one of those stage bungalows, erected by government, for the accommodation of travellers, along the great military road to Benares and Allahabad. Here we fell in with a family of our acquaintance travelling southward with all their household, B [Ch. I. 4 HAZAREBAUG. equipages, &c, and they treated us with a rather more plentiful and luxurious meal than our palankeen stores could have afforded us.

Just above the village of Rogonathpore there is a group of lofty rocks, of a conical form, and thickly clothed with brushwood, a very favourite resort of bears. The servant at the bungalow informed us that a young officer, who had preceded us about six weeks, ascended the rocks with his gun, and in about an hour shot two bears, carrying off their skins in triumph on the roof of his palankeen. Colonel D. and myself walked over the rocks in the evening, and we distinctly saw one of these uncouth-looking animals climbing up the face of the crags ; but he was far out of shot-range. Nov. 24th, 7 a. m., reached Hazarebaug, a small station, about two hundred and twenty miles from Calcutta. It is a healthy spot ; the earth sandy and rocky, presenting a strong contrast to the loomy and alluvial soil Ch. I.] SORTIE OF TIGERS. 5 of Southern Bengal*.

From Rogonathpore to Hazarebaug the road runs through an al most uninterrupted jungle, swarming with wild beasts. At this place we met with a hospitable friend, who stored our palankeens with provisions, after giving us a capital breakfast. At eleven o'clock at night we entered the famous pass of Dunghye. The road bears the appearance of a deep sandy ravine ; the banks are rocky and woody, and in many places quite overhung by the forest-trees. We had accomplished about half the defile, when I was suddenly and rudely awakened from a dozing sleep by the shock of my pa lankeen coming to the ground, and by the most discordant shouts and screams. I jumped out to ascertain the cause of the up roar, and found, on enquiry, that a foraging party of tigers — probably speculating upon picking up a straggling bearer — had sprung off the rocks, and dashed across the road, bounding between my palankeen and that of * Therm. 55, at 6 a. m.; — thirty degrees lower than when we lest Calcutta.

SORTIE OF TIGERS. [Ch. I. Colonel D., who was scarcely ten yards a-head. The bearers of both palankeens were all huddled together, bellowing like bedlamites, and the mussalgees waving their torches most vehemently. On mustering our forces, we discovered that two of our patarra bearers were missing, and fearing that the tigers might pick them up, we dispatched four men with spare torches to bring them on. Meanwhile my friend and myself, having brought our palankeens together, armed ourselves with patience and a pair of pistols to await the result. The whole inci dent, with the time and scene, was highly interesting and wild, with just enough of the awful to give an additional piquancy. The night was dark and stormy, and the wind roared among the trees above our heads : the torches cast a red and flickering light on the rocks in our immediate neighbourhood, and just showed us enough of the depths of the forest to make the background more gloomy and unfathomable.

The distant halloos of the men who were gone in search of their Ch. I.] journey Resumed. 7 comrades, came faintly and wildly upon the breeze ; and the occasional shots that we fired rang through the rocky jungle with an almost interminable echo. In about three quarters of an hour our bearers joined us j together with the two patarra-bearers. These latter, hearing the vociferations of our men, and guessing the cause, had quietly placed their boxes on the ground, about a mile in the rear of us, and seating themselves on their heels, had determined not to proceed until the break of day. All being reported present, we resumed our journey, the men keeping up their screaming chorus to scare our unwelcome visitors, whom I several times fancied I heard rustling among the brushwood on the road side, as though they were moving on our flanks in order to cut off any straggler who might drop astern.

I never saw bearers go more expeditiously, or in more compact order, every man fearing to be the last in the cavalcade*. A sheet would * It is said, that a tiger lying in wait for a string of passengers usually selects the last of the party. BENARES. [Ch. I. have covered the whole party ! The tigers, if they had calculated upon one of our number for their evening meal, must have gone sup perless to their lair, for we mustered all our twenty-four men in the morning. A dak hurkarah (post messenger) had been carried off in the same spot two days before, pro bably by the same family of tigers, which, according to the bearers' account, consisted of two old ones, and three cubs. Nov. 27th. Arrived at Benares, at 5 a.m., and were hospitably received by Mr. Prinsep, master of the Mint, who freighted our palan keens with plentiful stock for the morrow.

We were here shocked to learn the death of Colonel Macdonald, one of the party that had preceded us. He was seized with an apo plectic fit on getting out of his palankeen, and expired soon after. There is no country in the world, where the demise of one of a small circle is regarded with so much apathy as in India. Sickness, death, and sepulture follow upon each other's heels, not unfre- Ch.1.] aleahabad. 9 quently within the four-and-twenty hours; and memory of the departed — except among nearer and dearer friends, whose feelings are beyond the influence of climate and circum stances — scarcely outlives the week. By the death of Colonel Macdonald, we lost a courteous, kind-hearted, and agreeable companion, and the very outset of our journey was clouded with evil auspices. 28th. Reached Allahabad early in the morning, after having been much retarded by a paucity of bearers.

Among those that we did succeed in procuring, many of the poor fellows had their shoulders galled like those of overworked post-horses in Eng land. At three p.m. we called a halt, and combined breakfast, dinner, and supper in one meal ; and taking for our motto ' sufficient for the day, &c.,' bravely devoured our last fowl and loaf, though we had two more days' journey to perform, without a chance of falling in with any more of our hospitable countrymen. HERMITAGE OF A FAKIR. [Ch. I; In the evening, there being much rain, the roads became very deep and slippery, and the bearers proportionately slow and sulky. To crown the whole* our torches were extin guished, and the men at length put us down under a tree, from whence even the vast con sideration of two rupees (four times the usual a boire) could not induce them to move. 29th, 6 a.m. Awoke, and with the Com mander-in-chief's recommendation to hasten our progress staring me in the face, found myself and palankeen planted under the same ill-omened tree, and the bearers all huddled round, shivering and jibbering, and looking as though they had taken as firm root to the spot where they had squatted the night before, as the venerable banyan which overshadowed us.

With the assistance of a few rupees, and (shall I confess it?) a little gentle corporal persuasion, we resumed our journey, and at ten a.m. drew up at the picturesque, though ruined hermitage of an old Mussulman fakir. Here we overhauled our HAUTGONG. 11 Ch, I.] haversacks, and found our whole store to amount to six small biscuits. Divided rations ; and with the assistance of our reverend host, who boiled some water for us, made tea, and seating ourselves on some ancient Mussulman tombs, devoured our frugal breakfast. After tipping the holy anchorite a few annas*, and receiving his blessing in return, we proceeded. One p.m. we passed through Hautgong, a grange ruinous old town, surrounded with extensive fortifications, in a state of dilapida tion, and the most magnificent groves of ta marind trees.

Here a large pariah dog took a fancy to our party, and, with no other food than a couple of hard-boiled eggs, followed us the whole way to Cawnpore, a distance of nearly eighty miles. 30th. At four p.m. we at length reached our destination, having been two days longer than usual on the road, and most heartily tired of palankeens and bearers. We found * A small coin, sixteen to the rupee. CAWNPORE. [Ch. I. our tents pitched in the ' compound,' or en closure, of Sir S. Whittingham, the General of the division. The Commander-in-chief had arrived the day before. Our heavy bag gage, servants, horses, and dogs were here awaiting us. I missed, however, the joyous welcome of my favourite terrier ; and learnt with sorrow that he had met with his quietus on the march, by having unadvisedly dis puted a sheep's-shank with a foraging hyena, who not only secured the bone of contention, but left nothing but poor Hector's head to tell the story of his sad fate.

Flebilis oc cidit! Cawnpore being one of the largest military stations in India, his Excellency remained there six days, during which time our morn ings were employed in regimental and bri gade reviews, and our evenings agreeably consumed by the dinners, balls, and plays with which the hospitable inhabitants enter tained the Head-quarters party. December 6th. At daybreak we com- Ch. I.I ONAH 13 menced our first march towards Lucknow, the metropolis of the Nawaub, commonly called King, of Oude*. Having crossed the Ganges, which river forms the boundary be tween the English and Oude territories, we found the Head-quarters camp ready pitched for our reception near the village of Onah, twelve miles from Cawnpore. As we galloped up the main street of the camp, his Excellency was saluted by a depu tation from the King of Lucknow, who had sent a suite of tents, with elephants, horses, and servants, for his accommodation.

And here let me furnish the reader with a glimpse of Head-quarters camp. As it is * Oude was (until, for value received, acknowledged as an in dependent kingdom by the all-powerful Company) a province of the Mogul or Delhi empire ; and the Nawaub Vizier of Lucknow was, as the title literally signifies, the deputy or viceregent of the Emperor. Ostensibly, his Nabobship has been promoted from the rank of servant to that of lord ; virtually, he has only changed masters : for, like all other native potentates who have admitted British residents at their courts, he is so strictly supervised, that he can scarcely add an extra wife or two to his establishment, much less enact any important state measure, without the inter ference of his super-attentive allies. AN ANGLQ-INDIAN CAMP. [Ch. I. invariably pitched in the same order, one description will suffice for it under all cir cumstances.

The main street, about fifty feet wide, consisting of from twenty to thirty large double-poled tents, as symmetrically ranged as the houses of Portland-place, is set apart for the Commander-in-chief, the general and personal staff, and any visitors of distinction, who, bringing, like the snail, their houses with them, may sojourn for awhile at head-quarters. The two larger marquees, situated midway up the street, facing each other, and distinguished by spa cious shemmianas, or canopied porticoes, are the private and public, or durbar, tents of his Excellency. The street is, by the care of the Quarter-master-general, levelled and cleared of brushwood, and sentries are posted to prevent the intrusion of the ' profanum vulgus.' Immediately in rear of the main line of tents, are pitched those of the office clerks, servants, and kitchens, and behind them the horses of the officers are picqueted in line.

A little further back is spread out, in a Ch. I.j AN ANGLO-INDIAN CAMP. 15 wilderness of canvass alleys, the camp bazaar, where individuals of every trade, to meet the exigencies of the Burra-luscar*, are to be found. A long double line of picqueted horses marks the station of the cavalry escort; the infantry guard has its canvass cantonment at the opposite extremity of the camp ; and its extreme outskirts are occupied by a crowd of elephants and camels, who, released from their burthens, are enjoying themselves after their respective natures : the former animal covering himself with dust, and fanning him self with a branch, whilst he devours his delicate ' tiffen,' consisting of a dozen meal cakes, each as big as the top of a band-box, with half a peepul-tree, timber included, by way of legumes ; the latter beasts lazily chew ing the cud, as they lie round on the spot where they were unloaded, or brousing on the bushes within reach of their long necks.

The number of souls now assembled in Head quarters camp is computed at nearly five thousand. * Great camp. KHAMUTGUNGE. [Ch. I. The immense catalogue of what would in western nations be termed luxuries, but which in an Indian camp are mere necessaries, would astonish our more hardy campaigners in Europe. To those of our party who had experienced the hardships of a Peninsula bivouac, the contrast must have appeared almost antipodean. It would, perhaps, be worth while to record, as well as I can remember, the materiel and personnel of my camp equipment ; an humble captain and single man, travelling on the most economical principles. One double poled tent, one ' routee ' or small tent, a ' pal ' or servant's tent, two elephants, six camels, four horses, a pony, a buggy, and twenty four servants, besides mahouts, serwans or camel-drivers, and tent-pitchers. 8th.

Soon after reveillie beating, as is usual in Indian marches, we mounted our horses and continued our journey. The camp was pitched near the village of Kha mutgunge. About a mile from it we dis- Ch. I.] YOUNG PRINCE OF LUCKNOW. 17 cerned a large and glittering cavalcade drawn up on the road. This we discovered to be the young prince of Oude, attended by the minister, and a numerous train of courtiers, horse and infantry troops, and vagabonds of every description. They were come to give a ceremonious welcome to the Commander in-chief. On first gaining sight of them, we resigned our Arabs to the attendant ' syces,' and mounted our elephants, forming them in a line of fifteen a-breast. The band and a squadron of his Majesty's 11th Dragoons, and a like number of a Native Cavalry regiment, preceded us as we advanced to meet the heir-apparent of Lucknow.

The two caval cades approached, met, and blended them selves into one ; an impenetrable cloud of dust, the never-failing accompaniment of an Indian suwarree, veiling the rencontre of the British and Mussulman chiefs from the gaze of the spectators. The young Prince having quitted his own howdah for that of the Commander-in-chief, the whole procession rushed on together in one compact mass, of Vol. I. C YOUNG PRINCE OF LUCKNOW. [Ch. I. about forty elephants. The two escorts led the way, followed by a pedestrian crowd of chob dars, or mace-bearers, standards, heralds calling the high-sounding titles of the boy- Prince, and led horses richly caparisoned. On front, flanks, and rear, we were sur rounded by a cloud of picturesque-looking cavaliers, who were constantly em ployed in displaying their horsemanship and dexterity in the use of the spear and sword, by curvetting and careering at each other in mimic jousts, with the most noble disregard of banks, ditches, and uneven ground.

The whole scene was highly interesting and striking. The dark and close-serried column of elephants caparisoned with flow ing jhools of coloured cloth and brocade, deeply fringed ; the splendid howdahs of the Mussulmans, many of them panelled with plates of silver and gilt ; the complete con trast of the splendid shawls and ample, flow ing drapery of the natives, with the stiff, angular, scarlet coats of the English, as the wearers, riding side by side, conversed cour- Ch. I.] EXCHANGE OF PRESENTS. 19 teously from their lofty seats : add to this, the wild, fierce, and disorderly array of the Lucknow cavalry, compared with the disci plined regularity of our own escort; the dis cordant clashing of the British and native bands of music, which seemed vying with each other for the mastery in sound, and the continual glitter of hundreds of banneroles of gold and silver tissue ; and we were in possession of materials for amusement and interest, which were scarcely exhausted ere we arrived at the camp.

On reaching the tents of the Prince, we were invited to partake of a vile breakfast, prepared in the European style, but with the Indian concomitants of nauching and singing, the performers occupying one end of the tent. After breakfast we were conducted to another tent, where the usual presents from His Ma jesty of Oude to the Commander-in-chief were displayed. They consisted of shawls, tissues, &c. How absurd is this interchange of presents still kept up between the Honourable Company's and Native Courts ! Indi- C [Ch. I. NOELGUNGE. viduals, at least on the English side, are not suffered to retain what is presented to them ; the British residents taking a list of the articles, and all being sold on the account of the government. Thus it may frequently occur that the native potentates receive again as presents the same shawls which, a few months before, they had bestowed upon a servant of the Honourable Company.