Rambles in Europe ... With historical facts relating to Scotch-American families, gathered in Scotland and the North of Ireland ... Illustrated

Front matter

RAMBLES IN EUROPE Iq Maud, Scotland, England, Belgian^ [JewpiiJ, Switzerland, and France, with historical facts relating to SCOTCH-AMERICAN FAMILIES, GATHERED IN Scotland and the North of Ireland. BY LEONARD A. MORRISON, A. M., AUTHOR OF "HISTORY OF THE MORISON OR MORRISON FAMILY;" "HISTORY OF WINDHAM IN NEW HAMPSHIRE." ILLUSTRATED. BOSTON, MASS.: PUBLISHED BY CUPPLES, UPHAM & CO. Copyright. By Leonard A. Morrison. AU Rights Reserved. PRINTED BY THE REPUBLICAN PRESS ASSOCIATION, CONCORD, N. H. ®0 HJg imams, -frimtr, SfKfjmbxr tfjat Jfrieitii mag he, ■Cjiris Volume <fs gtiriraf^tr. ijNTTRODUCTIOSr. This work is largely a personal narrative, which has been prepared in the spare hours of a busy life. Its object is to tell of countries visited during the ramblings of five months, of people seen, of their customs and thoughts, their systems of government, and the influence of those governments upon the people.

It is to speak of friendships formed, of persons absent from me, but who in spirit will abide with me forever. In these wanderings I have spoken of men, institu tions, places, and events as they impressed me. My mission was semi-historical. My experiences in Ire land, Scotland, and England have been largely given. This is especially true of my tour through the original Scotch settlements in Ireland, and also of my journey in Scotland. Much historical matter relating to Scotch-American families has been purposely woven into the narrative. The subject has been a favorite theme : over it my pen loves to linger. To those places on the other side of the sea my mind reverts as do the thoughts of a wanderer to his early home. Much of the journey was over ground visited by numerous travellers, whose adventures have been rehearsed in many books.

No two persons have the same experience, nor do they see with the same eyes. The kaleidoscopic view changes with every tourist. I saw with American eyes, and judged with a judgment which is my own, and endeavored at all times

Introduction

. to be impartial, "with malice toward none, and with charity for all." It is my hope that the reader may be able to appropriate some kernels of the grain which I have gathered from the oft-gleaned fields. Other portions of the journey were on less frequented routes of travel, and it is my wish that the descriptions ofthe same may be of interest and value. The smaller illustrations for this work have been sketched by C. H. Dinsmoor and L. J. Bridgman. Those who took so kindly an interest in my mission to the Old World have my sincere thanks. While this book is written largely for my own pleasure, it is also prepared with the hope that others may derive profit from its perusal. This, with other writings, cannot bring me much pecuniary profit, nor the laudation of men ; but they have brought a better compensation in the new avenues of enjoyment which they have unfolded, and in the fascination which they have thrown around my leisure hours.

They have brought me many congenial spirits for companions, whom to know is to love, and to be understood by them is to be greatly blest. The pleasures of life have been increased. Its channel has been broad ened and deepened. Its skies are brighter, and life is made worth living. As I have received so much from others, the thought that I maybe able to return some thing for the pleasure and profit of those about me affords me the liveliest satisfaction. L. A. M. Windham, N. H. LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. Leonard A. Morrison Frontispiece. "The Early Home" faces page 16 Blarney Castle . 35 Irish Jaunting-Car 38 Muckross Abbey 39 Eagle's Nest, at Lakes of Killarney ... 40 Ancient Round Tower 49 Londonderry, Ireland 53 Birthplace of Burns 99 Alloway Kirk 102 Auld Brig o' Doon 103 Burns's Monument 105 Glasgow Cathedral - 109 Dumbarton Castle 120 Linlithgow Castle 124 Edinburgh Castle 128 Scott's Monument 130 Palace of Holyrood 133 Old Tombs : Grey Friars Churchyard . . . 137 Home of Walter Scott at Abbotsford . . 143 Millholm Cross . 156 Hollows Tower • . 159 Armstrong Arms 162 Cannobie 163 Stirling Castle 178 View of Stornoway 197 Morison Arms 201 Druidical Stones at Callernish 206 Cottage and Pictish Tower 210 Ben Lomond and Loch Lomond . . faces page 227 Ellen's Isle, Loch Katrine 231 The Trossachs 232 Battlefield of Bannockburn 234 William Wordsworth 239 Grasmere Church 241 Nelson's Monument, London LLST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

Westminster Abbey faces page 261 Henry VII's Chapel, Westminster Abbey . 263 Coronation Chair 263 Effigy of Mary Queen of Scots 264 Oliver Cromwell 265 Tower of London 276 Caxton's Printing Press 282 Cleopatra's Needle 283 William E. Gladstone 291 Mound at Waterloo 300 On the Rhine faces page 307 Fortress of Ehrenbreitstein 308 Bingen on the Rhine 310 Heidelberg 312 The Great Tun 314 Falls in the Alps faces page 317 The Tower 318 The Great Aletsch Glacier . . . faces page 319 Lucerne 320 In the Swiss Mountains faces page 321 Lion of Lucerne 321 Fluelen 322 Swiss Cottage and Mountains 324 Thun faces page 327 Night in the Alps 327 Berne faces page 329 Geneva [ 330 In the Alps faces page 331 Notre Dame faces page 333 Place de la Concorde faces page 335 Arc de Triomphe and Champs-Elysees faces page 335 New Opera House, Paris 336 Napoleon's Sarcophagus 338 Western FAgADE of the Louvre . . faces page 339 Palais Royal and Gardens .... faces page 341 COLONNE DE JuiLLET 342 Church of the Madeline .... faces page 343 Palace and Gardens of Versailles faces page 345 Shakespeare's Birthplace 34S Hathaway Cottage 348 Stratford-on-Avon 349 Shakespeare's Monument 349 Chester PREFATORY.— (Pages 1-16.) Dedication. List of Illustrations. Introduction. Table of Contents.

Chapter I

— (Pages 17-31.) leaving the united states. The early home, 17. The dream of childhood, 18. The hope realized, the letter of credit, the ship, 19. The departure, celebration in New York, 20. Bon voyage, countries visited, 21. A wilderness of waters, 22. Monotony of the voyage, 23. Ocean tramps, different classes of passengers, 24. Cabin passengers, Mr. Jones, 25. Mr. Jones commands respect, 26. Meeting vessels, a storm at sea, 27. The night's great darkness, 28. Sabbath services, 29. In sight of land, Fastenet Light, 30. Landing at Queenstown, 31.

CHAPTER IL

— (Pages 32-52.) IRELAND. Queenstown, 32. Care of luggage, 33. On the river Lee, the city of Cork, 34. Those Shandon bells, Blarney castle, 35. Groves of Blarney, 36. Killarney, 37. Estates of Mr. Herbert, Earl of Kenmore, the Irish jaunting car, 38. Muckross abbey, graves of the O'Sullivans, McCarthys, and Herberts, 39. Lakes of Killarney, 40. Cromwell's bridge, 41. Market day at Killarney, 42. Irish cabins, 43. A devout Irishman, price of women's labor, two classes in Ireland, 44. Railway carriages, unpleasant companions in a third class carriage, 45. At Mallow, Irish pedigrees, 46. Irish wit, 47. Remarkable ruins, " Devil's bit," 48. Round Tower, Dublin, Trinity college, 49. Phenix park, Public Records office, 50. Official discourtesy, 51. The " 1649" officers, Scotch names on records, 52. TABLE OF CONTENTS.

Chapter III

— (Pages 53-93.) IRELAND, CONTINUED. Londonderry, 53. Aghadowey, the home of Rev. James McGregor and many of the settlers of Londonderry, N. H., 54. Scotch patronymics, 55. Battle ofthe Boyne, Mr. Hewitt, Lord Lifford, 56. City of Londonderry, 57. Its interesting objects, meeting a descendant of James Morrison ofthe siege of i688-'89, Walker monument, 58. The broken boom, Magee college, the obliging attendant, 59. Interview with Bishop Alexander, Mrs. Alexander, 60. Home of the poet, 61. The famous cathedral audits relics, 62. Records of the cathedral, familiar names and genealogical difficulties, 63. Family records not kept, communication from Board of Trade, 64. The cemetery, 65. Hon. Arthur Livermore, U. S. consul, 66. The ludicrous court, 67. St. Patrick's day, 68. Enniskillen, ruins of Devenish island, 69.

The Morrisons, Rev. Mr. Cochran, Donegal, Barnesmore gap, 71. Family of Park, 72. Last glimpse of Londonderry, Castle Rock, Rev. James Armstrong, 73. Green castle, Coleraine, 74. The Dinsmoors, 75. The Pattersons, Aghadowey, the old home of Londonderry, N. H., settlers, 76. The Nesmiths, the Cochrans, 77. The Morrisons, the Caldwells, 78. Familiar names in the Scotch settlements, entertained by William Morrison and Hugh R. Morrison, 79. Ancient earthworks, 80. Giant's Causeway, 81-83. Sixty miles by jaunting car, Carrick-a-Rede, 84. County of Antrim, 85. Belfast, 86. Landlordism, 87. Home of William E. Armstrong, 88. Demolished cabins, 89. Two classes, 90. Love for Americans, 91. Home Rule, 92. Farewell to Ireland, 93.

Chapter IV

— (Pages 94-125.) SCOTLAND. Emigrants to Ireland in 1641, 95. Ruins of Castle Kennedy, 96. A pack of hounds, 97. Hounds and race horses in England, 98. Birthplace of Burns, 99. His genius, 100. Tam O'Shanter inn, 101. Alloway kirk, 102. Auld Brig o' Doon, 103. The niece of Burns, 104. European toilers, 105. Auchenleck, first home of the Cochrans, 106. Glasgow, 107. Management of railways, 108. Improvements of the Clyde, the cathedral, 109. Religion and patriotism, no. The crypt, n 1. A Scotch audience, 112. The Necropolis, Bridge of Sighs, Michael Simons, 113. Botanic Gardens, libraries, 114. Rev. Donald Morrison, surnames, Gallow gate, 115. Paisley, 116. Robert Tannahill, 117. Gifted authors, 118. Home of Sir William Wallace, ship yards on the Clyde, 119. Dumbarton castle, Greenoek, 120. The dross burned away, 121. Grave of " Highland Mary," 122. Home of the Nesmiths, 123. Linlithgow castle, 124. The Roman wall, 125.

Chapter V

— (Pages 126-141.) EDINBURGH, THE QUEEN CITY. Reaching Edinburgh, 126 In apartments, 127. The castle, 128. Scotland's regalia, Princes Street Gardens, 129. The vanished lake, Scott's monument, Calton Hill, 130. Heart of Midlothian, the university, subscribing to the covenant, 131. Libraries, graves of John Knox and of Thomas Chalmers, 132. Grave of Hugh Miller, Arthur's Seat, 133. Holyrood palace, 134. The Canongate, curious wynds, 135. Former homes of illustrious families, 136. House of John Knox, Grey Friars church, martyrs ofthe covenant, 137. Capt. F. W. L. Thomas, R. N., pleasant reminiscences, 138. Oscar Malmross, U. S. consul, Dean bridge, General Register House, 139. Difficulty in consulting records, 140. Farewell to Edinburgh, 141.

CHAPTER VL

— (Pages 142-170.) THE DEBATABLE LAND. Home of Sir Walter Scott, 143. Arms of border families, 144. Clan Scott, 145. Melrose, 146. Melrose abbey, the heart of Bruce, 147. Reverence for royalty, 148, 149. Scott's regard for royalty, 150. Dryburgh abbey, grave of Scott, clan Maxwell, 151. Clans Chisholm, Turnbull, and Armstrong, 152. Antiquity of the Armstrongs, 153. Lands granted to Lancelot Armstrong, home of Gilnockie Armstrong, 154. In the Debatable Country, cemetery at Castleton, 155. Millholm cross, 156. Ettleton cemetery, Kershopfoot, and Langholm, 157. Castle of Gilnockie Armstrong, 158. The Hollows Tower, 159. Strength of the clan, 160. Ensnaring and death of Gilnockie Armstrong, 161. Churchyard at Cannobie, arms ofthe Armstrongs, 162. Beautiful Cannobie, its name made immortal by Scott, 163.

Archie Armstrong, the great wit, emigration of members ofthe clan to Ireland, 164. Armstrongs in Ireland, 165. Prominent names of the family in America, Scotch prisoners, 166. Visit to Hermitage castle, 167. The Douglasses, 168. Hornless black cattle, a pedestrian tour, 169. Dinner at a thatch-roofed cottage, departure for the Hebrides, 170. TABLE OF CONTENTS.

Chapter VII

— (Pages 171-196.) FROM THE ENGLISH BORDER TO THE HEBRIDES. The way I reached Gretna, 171. Lockerby, 172. The clan Johnston, Peebles, 173. Neidpath castle, Henry Armour, 174. Home of the Sinclair or St. Clair family, Roslin chapel, 175. Hawthornden, Lasswade, castle of Craigmillar, home of the Pinkerton family, 176. Home of the Stark family, J. Grant McLean, 177. Stirling castle, Bridge ,of Allan, Campsie hills, 178. Garden of the King, Vale of Monteith, Wallace monument, 179. The Bridge of Stirling, the old battle-ground of William Wallace, 180. Battle-field of Bannockburn, the " Bore Stone," Henry de Bohun, 182. Gillie's hill, Abbey Craig, Wallace monument, six battle-fields, 183. Cambuskenneth abbey, 184. Home of the Abercrombies, battle of Sherriff-muir, 185. Value of a belt, Glen- Dochart, country of the Clan Campbell, 186.

Origin of Scotch clans, 187. First appearance of the Campbells, 188. Their strength and ancient home, Tyndrum, Dalmally, Castle of Kilchurn, 189. "It's a far cry to Lochow," Loch Etive, Oban, departure for Stomoway, 190. In localities made famous by William Black, Island of Mull, 191. Mountains of Ulva, islands of Muck, Eig, Rum, Canna, and Skye, 192. Tragedy ofthe cavern, 193. Seat of Lord Macdonald, jagged coast of Lewis, 194. Welcome to Stomoway, 195. Greetings of a clansman, 196.

Chapter VIII

— (Pages 197-213.) ISLAND OF LEWIS TO INVERNESS. Population and extent of Lewis and Harris, Earl Dunmore, Sir James Matheson, 197. Description of Lewis, Scandinavian names, 198. Black wings, fishermen in Stomoway, Norman Morison, 199. Life in Stomoway, 200. First home ofthe Morisons, the Morison arms, 201. Great number ofthe name, 202. The Macaulays and Macleods, Lord Macaulay of the Lewis family, 203. Gray crows, no trees or shrubs, Garra-na-hina, 204. Places described by William Black, 205. Original of home of " Sheila," and the " King of Borva," 206. The druidical stones at Callernish, 207. Houses ofthe crofters, 208. The smoking cabins at night, 209. Visiting the cottages, 210. Distress of the crofters, and the rebellion in Skye, 211. Land troubles, 212. A coming storm, Will Britain be just? 213.

Chapter IX

— (Pages 214-234.) FROM INVERNESS TO THE ENGLISH BORDER. Leaving Stomoway, 214. A physician's practical joke, from Ullapool to Garve, 215. Waterfall of Corry Halloch, planting trees upon mountains, game forests, Mr. Winans of Baltimore, 216. A mountain divides the waters, a mountain of storms, arrive at Inverness, Mr. White, librarian, 217. Alexander Mackenzie, battlefield of Culloden, 218. Burial-place ofthe clans, and stones to each, 219. The typical Celt, Inverness, 220. Through the Caledonian canal, what waters the canal connects, 221. Falls of Foyers, Balluchulish, 222. Sorrowing chief of Glencoe, 223. The massacre, the Pass of Glencoe, 224. Old homes ofthe Macdonalds, Ossian's cave, the Crinan canal, 225. Again in Glasgow, 226. On Ben Lomond, 227. Loch Lomond, Rob Roy's cave, 228. Haunts of Roy Roy, land ofthe MacGregors, 229.

Their early home, 230. Loch Katrine, Loch Vennachar, 231. Through the Trossachs, meeting Hon. P. C. Cheney, 232. First home of Boyd family, 233. Farewell to Scotland, 234.

Chapter X

— (Pages 235-249.) FROM THE SCOTTISH BORDER TO LONDON. Beauty of England, 235. Carlisle, home of the Musgraves, Keswick, 236. Home of Southey and Coleridge, at the English lakes, coach drive to Windermere, 237. Curipus names of hotels, Derwentwater, 238. Thirlemere lake, Dunmail Raise Pass, Grassmere, 239. Home of William Wordsworth, 240. His grave, Grassmere church, grave of Hartley Coleridge, 241. Homes of Harriet Martineau and Mrs. Hemans, 242. Small cathedral, Lake Windermere, 243. English opinion of American politics, 244. Two Englishmen measure lances, 245, 246. City of Leeds, a Sabbath in York, Roman ruins, the walls, 247. The cathedral and triumphant song, 248. Stone coffins, arrival in London, 249.

CHAPTER XL

— (Pages 250-292.) LONDON. Its bright skies, Charing Cross, Scotland Yard, 251. An event wholesome to royalty, the embankment, 252. Underground railway, Cleopatra's Needle, 253. Mary Anderson, Henry Irving, 254. Covent Garden, 255. American Exchange, and Americans met, 256. Somerset House, Henry F. Waters, James A. D. Camp, 257. Kew Gardens, 258. Richmond Hill, 259. St. James's Park, the Mall, 260. The queen's stables, 261. West minster abbey, 262. Chapel of Henry 7th, coronation chair, 263. Where Cromwell was entombed, 264. Beheading the dead Crom well, 265. Present place of Cromwell's skull, no monument to Cromwell, 266. Poet's corner in the abbey, Longfellow, Major John Andre., 267. Services in the abbey, 268. Spurgeon's preaching, 269. Rev. Dr. Parker, 270. No elasticity to British law, shrimps, 271.

The British Museum, Henry Stevens, 272. Title deeds of Babylon, Egyptian relics, 273. St. Paul's church, 274. Monument to Gen. Ross and Lord Cornwallis, 275. Tower of London, 276. The crown jewels, 277. Horse armory, instruments of torture, 278. Waiter's gate, Hyde park, 279. The Albert memorial and Albert hall, 280. South Kensington Mu seum, Crystal Palace, Hampstead Heath, 281. Liquor shops and girls for bar-tenders, Caxton's printing-press, 282. Hon. Thomas Biggar, Rev. Dr. Kinnear, through the parliament buildings, 283. Wonderful history of Westminster Hall, 284. Entrance to House of Commons, art galleries, slight allusions to America in paintings, police everywhere, 285. Difficulties in visiting parliament, 286. In the House of Lords, 287. Visit to the House of Commons, Sir Thomas McClure, the Maori king, 288. Herbert Gladstone, peculiarities of British orators, 289. Sir Stafford Northcote, 290. William E. Gladstone, 291. His preeminence, 292.

Chapter XII

— (Pages 293-318.) ON THE CONTINENT. Leaving London, Antwerp, 293. Its celebrated paintings, cathedral, 294. Peter Paul Rubens, 295. Brussels, Hotel de Ville, 296. Famous places in Brussels, 297. Palace of Justice, 298. Habits ofthe people, 299. Battlefield of Waterloo, 300. Aixla-Chapelle, 301. Curious sights and customs, 302. Tomb of Charlemagne, Cologne, Hotel de Holland, 303. Cathedral, 304. City of Cologne, 305. A railway race, Bonn, 306. Beauties of the Rhine, Drachenfels, Coblentz, 307. Ehrenbreitstein, the vineyards, 308. German beds, Stolzenfels, Rheinfels, St. Goar, Lurlei, Schonburg, birthplace of Marshal Schomberg, 309. Good memories of the Germans, Mouse Tower, Archbishop Hatto of Mayence, 310. Bingen on the Rhine, 311. Mayence, Bishop J. F. Hurst, Heidelberg, 312. Its wonderful castles, 313.

Its great tun, university, 314. Antiquated agricultural utensils, 315. Baden-Baden, Strasburg, cathedral, clock, 316. The hermetically sealed case, German laundries, 317. At Bale, 318.

Chapter XIII

— (Pages 319-331.) SWITZERLAND. Lucerne, Lion of Lucerne, 320. Tbe Rigi-Kulm, Fluelen, Vitznau, 322. Sunrise on the Alps, 323. Homes of the Swiss mountaineers, Brienz, 324. The Brunig Pass, 325. Falls of the Giessbach, Lake of Brienz, the Jungfrau, Great Aletsch glacier, 326. Lake of Thun, Berne, celebrated clock tower, 327. Federal Council Hall, Lusanne, Hotel Gibbon, the markets, cathedral, 328. Lake of Geneva, Ouchy, Morgas, Rolle, Nyon, Coppet, Versoix, Chateau of Prangins, Joseph Bonaparte, Madame de Stael, 329. Geneva, Rousseau, John Calvin, the Swiss, 330. Swiss soldiers, 331.

Chapter XIV

— (Pages 332-351.) FRANCE, ENGLAND. Meeting a clansman, Paris, Gen. George Walker, 332. Ex-Gov. P. C. Cheney, Notre Dame, place where Napoleon was crowned, the prince imperial, the Madeline, 333. Place de la Concorde, place of execution of Louis XVI, Marie Antoinette, Charlotte Corday, Danton, Robespierre, 334. Obelisk of Luxor, Arc de Triomphe, Palace of the Elyse"es, Champs-Elyse'es, Palais de ['Industrie, 335. New Opera House, 336. Palais du Trocad_ro, Hotel des Invalides, 337. Napoleon's tomb, 338. The Louvre, 339. Place du Carrousel, Palace of the Tuileries, 340. Palais Royal, 341. Place de la Bastile, Colonne de Juillet, Cemetery of Pere-la-Chaise, resting-place of Thiers, Marshal Macdonald, Madame de Genlis, 342. Grave of Ney, Bois de Bologne, St. Cloud, 343. Ville d'Avray, Versailles, apartments of Marie Antoinette, Napoleon I, Muse"e Historique, Grande Galerie, Galerie des Batailles, 345.

Painting of siege of Yorktown, gardens, Column Vendome, the Gobelins, 346. Palace ofthe Luxembourg, Hotel de Ville, in London, at Oxford, 347. Stratford-on-Avon, Shakespeare's birthplace, his home, Hathaway cottage, Anne Hathaway, 348. Stratford church, Shakespeare's monument, 349. Chester, Liverpool, adieu to England, 350. The journey home, 35i- "THE EARLY HOME." I^a/r\ble5 [T) Europe

Chapter I. The Early Home

J^A Y early home was among the granite hills of ■j/Wl New Hampshire. Like thousands of others who dwell in pleasant abodes on the plains, on the sloping mountain-side, or nestling among the green valleys of the state we love, we, my broth ers, my sister, and I, who formed the youthful flock, drew vigor from the bracing air, and inspira tion from the beauties of the landscape, of wood ed hills and valleys and bodies of water, which made beautiful the place of our nativity. The years passed quickly, as they always do. Childhood gave place to youth, as it always does. My brothers, older than I, stood on the threshold of young manhood, with life and its grand possi bilities opening up brightly before them, when their feet grew weary in the way, and after brief suffering they went forth, young, fresh, unspotted, into everlasting sunshine and joy.

THE DREAM OF CHILDHOOD. In childhood, when reading books of travel and of localities where some of the world's most tragic events have occurred, it was a sweet day-dream to sometime visit historic towns, to stand where the most renowned ones of earth had stood, and see and feel and know what they had seen and felt and known. This was previous to the time when everybody went to Europe — before the electric cable girdled the globe, and spoke with its tongue of flame from beneath the ocean's waters. It was before the huge "reindeers of the Atlantic" carried one from New York to Queenstown in six days. Neither at that time did Cook's Agency ticket the tourist, like an express package, to all parts of the civilized world, and to sections not civilized. There were then no holiday excursions to Europe and return, with courteous conductors to relieve one of every trouble save that of breath ing, and feeing impecunious servants on the other side of the sea.

The dream of childhood was the hope of youth, the undefined plan of early manhood. Each year brought its duties and delayed its execution. Oft entimes an event, slight and trivial, will change the course of a life. Standing upon a mountain in Scotland, one can see where the descending waters from a higher point are divided by a slight ridge, and one tiny rill, trickling down the moun tain-side, increased in volume and intensity, till THE HOPE REALLZED. 19 it became a powerful current, and emptied into the North sea. The other flowed down the opposite way, became a mighty stream, and emptied into the Atlantic ocean. As the ridge on the mountain divided the wa ters, so an event, small in itself, turned me from the beaten track, and changed my life. A strange course of events, unlooked for and unexpected, compelled my course into a literary channel, which it had been no purpose of mine to enter, and into which my first choice would not have led me.

After six years of unremitting toil, two books went forth to the world as the fruit of my pen. As the result of those historical works, a letter from a person whom I have never met led to the journey abroad, and this volume is the result. Thus the dream of childhood came true. One hope of youth was realized, and the plan of early manhood executed, sooner than had been expected. Having concluded to make the journey, I got my letter of credit from Kidder, Peabody & Co., of Boston, on which I could draw on many banks in Europe, and secured passage to Liverpool, Eng land, by the good ship City of Chicago, and a return ticket by any ship of the Inman line. February 20, 1884, having been fixed upon as the day of my departure, I left the home de scribed in the commencement of this chapter, with my face turned toward the Old World.

THE DEPARTURE. 20 On arrival in New York, it was ascertained that owing to rough weather, a prolonged and dangerous voyage from England, the vessel would not sail on advertised time. This gave an opportunity for witnessing the elaborate and imposing demonstration on Washington's birthday in hon or of the heroes of the Jeannette, of the Arc tic expedition, who had perished, in the cause of science, in the eternal frosts and snows of the Polar regions. The body of one justly honored man, Mr. Collins, with that of his mother, was placed on board of the Chicago, carried back to his native land, and now lies buried beneath the green sod of " dear old Ireland." After ex changing United States money for British gold, my place was found on board of ship. On the afternoon of February 25th, with much confusion and bustle, the trundling of baggage, the hurrying of loaded teams on the pier, the swiftly driving cabs filled with passengers, the shouts of the policemen to preserve order, the impatient answers and sharp retorts of questioned officials and employes, the passengers and freight were on board, and the ship ready to sail.

The proud flag of Great Britain and the loved flag of the United States were flying from different masts. There were hurried partings and affectionate fare wells. The cables were taken on board, the ponderous shafts of the mighty engine began to move, the BON VOYAGE. 21 quivering, instant response of the vessel was felt, and the stately ship of 6,000 tons' burden swung from her moorings, and amid the cheers of the assembled hundreds on the pier and the an swering shouts of those on deck, the waving of handkerchiefs and the oft expressed wish for a bon voyage, she steamed down the harbor, past Forts Lafayette and Hamilton, past the Quaran tine, and soon friends and streaming banners and lofty city spires faded from our view. The journey had commenced, and I was now to wander for months, by land and by sea, over the earth ; to travel extensively in Ireland, Scot land, England, Belgium, Germany, Switzerland, and France ; was to inspect places of world-wide interest, visit famous cathedrals and historic cities, to be on mighty battle-fields where struggling armies had decided the destinies of empires, muse by the graves of despots whose names linger not in one grateful memory, but who like the Genius of Evil stalked through the world, and at whose decease humanity uttered exclamations of joy and songs of thanksgiving ; was also to linger by the tombs of those whose lives were radiant with good to their fellows, and whose names and deeds will be revered so long as human hearts love all that is lovely and of good report.

Beautiful rivers, lovely lakes, green valleys, and the glacier-crowned Alps, with Mont Blanc's lofty head wreathed with its diadem of eternal white- A WILDERNESS OF WATERS. 22 ness, and piercing the skies, were to become fa miliar friends. Gentle reader, please accompany me in these wanderings, go with me step by step, while the places of travel are visited. When the pilot was dismissed, the vessel started upon its 3000 miles of ocean travel, was soon out of sight of land, and the next earth to greet the eyes of her passengers would be that ofthe Emerald Isle. The " Landlubbers' song" could be sung, '-' As we ploughed the furrowed sea." " Hurrah for the ship ! Hurrah for her crew ! Merry, merry boys are we ; And our course is pressed for the Irish coast As we rise on the yeasty sea." We were now in a wilderness of waters.

The heaving, jumping, tossing, white-capped billows were upon every side. Our only companions were the sea-gulls with their dark-tipped wings, which followed in the wake of the vessel, or cir cled in the air around us, or rested themselves upon the surface of the sea. They are faith ful companions, and often follow ships from shore to shore. The singers little knew of that of which they sang. The jubilant songs of most, when stepping on shipboard, are turned to wo sul lamentations before two days out from land. Sea-sickness, the monster destroyer of the happiness of ocean tran sit, comes to most travellers, and sticks more MONOTONY OF THE VOYAGE. 23 closely than the dearest friend. Most of the pas sengers, however, rallied after three days of illness, myself among the number. The ocean voyage, loved by few, and dreaded by most as a painful experience, passed rather pleasantly.

I did not dread it, and should no more hesitate to step into a first class steamer for Europe, than to board the cars for New York or Chicago. Favoring winds cheered us on the way. The steamer's sails were set, and caught the stiffening breezes. The mighty engines kept up their cease less action ; and the ship was propelled over the dark waters at an average of more than three hundred miles daily. The weather, as a rule, was favorable. The mornings often broke upon us clear and bright. The sun, rising in the intensity of its brightness from the bosom of the ocean, ushered in days cool, yet clear and delightful. Much of the time was spent on deck, promenad ing, talking, reading, and playing games. The nights seemed long*, and little could be heard save the perpetual sad moaning of the sea, the hurrying feet on deck, and the melancholy refrain of the sailors' songs when unreefing the sails.

The monotony of the ocean voyage is one of its worst features. One tires of the everlast ing expanse of waters ; of the deep blue above, the blue deep beneath and around. One is sur rounded by the billows, ceaseless in their mo- OCEAN TRAMPS. tion, and destitute of all signs of animate life, save occasionally a spouting whale, or thousands of por poises which can be seen for miles around, or the dolphins at play, springing from the waters, looking beautiful with their changing colors. Our steamer was a floating palace. The table was the equal of the best hotel, and eating be came one ofthe chief attractions and the principal occupation of the passengers. The three regular meals, interspersed with several lunches, kept those on board nearly as busy as a good friend of mine in Edinburgh, who nibbled away at his provisions and sipped his tea or coffee some eight times a day.

Many of the gentlemen amused themselves and whiled away the time by playing poker, drinking champagne, and betting on the day's run of the steamer. Money frequently changed hands at such times. It may not be generally known, but there are ocean tramps, who live upon ocean steamers most of the time, passing to and fro over the At lantic, whose business it is to gamble and bet, and thus rake into their own pockets the shekels of the foolish and unwary traveller. The wine bill of some of these, during a single voyage of ten days, would often be one hundred and fifty dollars. Three classes of passengers were on board, — cabin or first-class, intermediate or second-class, and the steerage. Cabin passengers fare sump tuously every day. Every want is anticipated MR. JONES. 25 and provided for. The intermediate live as they do in corporation boarding-houses in our manu facturing cities, while the steerage passengers are huddled together in close quarters, and there is nothing to brighten or cheer their hard and dis agreeable lot.