Narrative of a voyage to the Ethiopic and South Atlantic Ocean, Indian Ocean, Chinese Sea, North and South Pacific Ocean, in ... 1829-31

Front matter

Ill] I NARRATIVE OF A VOYAGE TO THE ETHIOPIC AND SOUTH ATLANTIC OCEAN, INDIAN OCEAN, CHINESE SEA, NORTH AND SOUTH PACIFIC OCEAN, IN THE YEARS 1S29, 1S30, 1831. BY ABBY JANE MORRELL. • *A WHO ACCOMPANIED HER HUSBAND, CAPT. BENJAMIN MORRELL, JR., OF THE SCHOONER ANTARCTIC. " If all our care Gives us a gentle husband, one that binda] No galling yoke, happy our life indeed." " 1 to Inlcos ploughed the watery way, By fondness rather than by prudence led." NEW-YORK: PUBLISHED BY J. &, J. HARPER, NO. 82 CLIFF-STRKET, AND SOLD BY THE BOOKSELLERS GENERALLY THROCOKOUT TH< UNITED STATES. 1833, [Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1833, by J. & J. Harpor, in the Office of the Clerk of the Southern District of Now- York.] TO MY COUNTRYWOMEN, THE HAPPIEST OF THEIR SEX, BORN IN A LAND OF LIBERTY, EDUCATED IN A KNOWLEDGE OF VIRTUE AND TRUE INDEPENDENCE, SINGLE BY CHOICE, OR WEDDED WITH THEIR OWN CONSENT, FRIENDS TO THE BRAVE, AND PATRONS TO THE ENTERPRISING, THIS HUMBLE NARRATIVE OF A LONG VOYAGE, WITH SOME INCIDENTAL REMARKS, is RESPECTFULLY AND AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATED, BY THEIR OBEDIENT SERVANT, A. J. M.

ADVERTISEMENT.

. The reader will perceive a similarity, at least of outline, between this work and a part of the larger volume of Capt. Benjamin Morrell, published in De cember last, containing a narrative of the four voyages of that adventurous navigator ; in the last of which he discovered several groups of hitherto unknown islands, and had the misfortune to lose a portion of his crew by the treachery of the savage inhabitants. The following pages do not, however, contain a mere abridgment of Capt. Morrell's volume : they were not only written, but printed, before his work, and although the incidents narrated in the two productions are in some respects similar, it will be seen that there is a marked dissimilarity in the style and spirit in which they have been written. The narrative of Capt. Morrell is essentially practical and descriptive ; and its contents are the results of a sailor's observations : the present work is of a more reflective character, and exhibits the impressions made upon the mind of an educated female by scenes and occurrences so differ ent from those which it is the lot of women generally to encounter.

Preface

. When I took up my pen to prepare my journal for publication, I intended to make nothing more than a plain narrative of the events of my voyage, interspersed with such general remarks as might suggest themselves to my mind. But as I proceeded, I felt an irrepressible desire to make some observations on a subject which has become an object of no small interest to philanthropic sympathy — I mean the amelioration of the condition of American seamen. I believe that their habits can be reformed ; and it requires no arguments to prove how much this reformation would subserve the best interests of commerce. It may be thought strange that a woman should take up a subject so foreign to those which generally occupy the attention of her sex. It was, however, deeply impressed on my mind that, being a woman, I was in some mea sure better qualified to offer a few suggestions on this subject than any one engaged in the navy or the merchant service.

A writer so situated might be suspected of wishing to effect promotion or of seeking employment; and knowing the dislike the public have to remarks coming from a quarter where interest or prejudice may be mingled with the information offered, I thought they might at least expect sincerity from me. With all my earnestness to make these remarks, I tremble when I think I am about to offer them for the consideration of the public. Perhaps they will listen to me kindly. It has been said, that when Napoleon was brooding over

PREFACE.

. VIII his disasters no one dared approach him but a pet child, who played around him and induced him to take nour ishment and repose. Let the public therefore consider me in the capacity ofthe child j and jf there be any force in my suggestions, they will go for what they are worth ; if there be none, why they will pass off with a smile. It is seldom, indeed, that a female can know any thing, upon this subject ; but as I have had some oppor tunity of becoming acquainted with it, I hope I may be excused for venturing to give my opinion. I should be proud to be one of the humble instruments in im proving the condition and raising the moral and intellectual standard of that race of men which ever has and ever will share in the prosperity and glory of our country. In life I would ask no higher gratification than to learn that the work of reform was going on suc cessfully i and desire no other earthly honour after death than an inscription on my tombstone declaring that the ashes of the mariner's friend repose beneath. A. J. M. JVeto-Yorfc, January, 1833. CONTENTS. Preface page 9

Chapter I

The Author's Birth — Education — Marriage — Voyage with her Husband — Death and Burial at Sea — Bonavista— St. Jago — Blue Beard's Castle — Crossing the Equator — Sickness on board the Antarctic — Tristan D'Acunha — Storm at Sea — ■ Island of Desolation — Character of a good Ship-master 13

Chapter II

Lord Auckland's Group — Birds — Flowers — Forests — Peculiar kind of Flax — New-Zealand — Visit from the Natives — Their Appearance — Visit to the Bay of Islands — Whale-ships— Courtesy of their Commanders — Visit to the Missionary Establishment — Character ofthe Missionaries — The Changes they had effected among the Natives — Visit to the King and Queen — Courteous Reception — King's Speech — Presents from the King and Queen — Departure — Strong's Island — Appearance of the Natives — Discovery of several Islands — Difficulty of Navigation in these Seas — Discover}' of more Islands — Reach Manilla — Description of the City — The Suburbs — Description of the People — Grave-yards — Difficulties at Manilla — Preparations for a Voyage to Islands in the South Pacific — Return of the Antarctic — Misfortunes at Massacre Island 31

Chapter III

Prepare for a second Voyage to Massacre Island — The Crew — Reach Massacre Island — Contest with the Natives — The Appearance of Shaw, who was supposed to he dead — Account of his Sufferings there — Further Hostilities with the Natives — Description of the Means of Defence — Attack upon the Castle — Discovery of the Remains of those murdered — Funeral Honours paid them — Leaving the Place — Bread-fruit Tree _______ , . . _ . . . , , . , , , . . CONTENTS. X

Chapter IV

St. George's Channel— Beauty of the Scenery— Buds of New- Britain— Natural Society— Warlike Instruments of tho Natives—Island of Papua— Birds of Paradise — Volcanic Islands New Discoveries— Hostilities of the Natives— Productions of these Islands— Ambergris— Return to Manilla . . 73

Chapter V

Stay at Manilla — Visit to Convents and Churches— Spanish Ladies— Sketch of the History of the Philippine Islands — Earthquake — Appearance of the People after the Earthquake — Sketch of La Perouse's Voyages — Kotzebue — Captain Cook— Ledyard— American Whaling-ships— Their Voyages — Their Discoveries — Leaving Manilla — Arrival at Sincapore — Description ofthe Island — Tour to the Mountains — Ladies of Sincapore — Singing-birds — Farewell to Sincapore — Hospitality of the People — Horsburgh's Directory — Malays — Trade-winds — Isle of France and Madagascar — Mrs. Harriet Newell — Mrs. Judson — Missionaries— Luminous Appearance of the Sea — Sea and Land compared — Dr. Mitchill — Captain Gates 88 ICHAPTER VI. Saldanha Bay — Refitted — Visit to the Cape — Description of Saldanha Bay — Table Mountain — Comparison between the Animals found at the Cape and the Race of Men — Description of the Condor — His Habits and Charact-er — The Albatross — His Habits and Character — Superstitions in Regard to the Condor — Hottentots and Lions — Character of the Lion — Thc Elephant — Ostriches ; Description of, and their Character — Accuracy of the Scripture Account — Garrison at thc Cape — Camoens and his Lusiad — The Character of this commercial Epic — Fate of the Author — Reflections upon the Restrictions upon Trade 127

Chapter VII

Departure from the Cape — Sight of St. Helena — Its Appearance at Sea — Something of its History — Landing at St. Helena — Its natural and other Productions — Its Appearance on Land — Strength of the Place— Longwood — Tomb of Napoleon — Reflections at his Grave — Fernandez Lopez — Comparison between St. Helena and Napoleon — Soothing Effect of the Sublimity of the Scripture — Recrossing the Equator — Calm at Sea CONTENTS. XI

Chapter VIII

The Azores — Climate and Soil — Volcanic Origin — Liberia — Character of that Colon}' — Lot Cary — Effects of Exploring Expeditions — Missionary Societies — The bad Effects of \ntoxicating Liquors — Indians unacquainted with Intemperance until taught by Europeans — Course that should be pursued by Missionaries — Intellectual Character of the Indians — Their Ferocity ascribed to Ignorance and Ill-treatment — Arrival at Cadi* — Disappointment in not being allowed to Land — Slight Sketch of its History — The Cholera — Notice of it in New- York 160

Chapter IX

Arrival at Bordeaux — History and Description ofthe City — Delight at seeing the Flag of our Country — Literary and Scientific Institutions — Visit to the Tomb of Montesquieu — Comparison between Montesquieu and one buried in Trinity Churchyard — Sketch of the Archbishop of Bordeaux — His Residence in America — His Popularity there — His Charities — His Return to France — His Popularity in his Native Land — Reception of a File of American Newspapers — The Pleasure they gave — American Books — Their Authors — Farewell to Bordeaux 173

Chapter X

Conchology — The Pearl-oyster — The Nautilus — The large Shell used for War Trumpets — The Eyestone — Character of Sailors — Causes of their Ignorance — Their Errors on the Side of Virtue — The Neglect of their Education — United States' Ship Vincennes — Manner in which Seamen should be treated — • Character and Description of Sunday and Monday, two Natives brought Home in the Antarctic 187

Chapter XI

Observations on the Progress of Discovery — Remarks on the Marine of various Nations — Aurora Borealis — Anecdote of its Appearance early in the last Century 208

Chapter XII

Reflections on drawing near my Native Land — The Difficulties Women experience iu gaining Information — The Value of Commerce — The Influence of Women — Love of the Ocean Farewell to it — Sensations on arriving in the Harbour of New-York— Reaching Home— Public Attentions shown to ray Husband and myself— Gratitude to Heaven for a safe Return m NARRATIVE.

Chapter I

The Author's Birth — Education— Marriage — Voyage with her Husband — Death and Burial at Sea — Bonavista — St. Jago — Blue Beard's Castle — Crossing the Equator — Sickness on Board the Antarctic — Tristan D'Acunha — Storm at Sea — Island of Desolation — Character of a good Ship-master. Perhaps I owe the public an apology for appearing before them as an author. To become one was not my intention when, by the kindness of my husband, I was permitted to take a voyage with him into far distant seas ; but as I have seen much and suffered much, I have been advised to give mynarrative to my friends through the press, hoping it might afford some amusement to them as well as profit to myself. Another argument had much weight with me, which was, that I should thus be relieved of the necessity of answering questions frequently put to me by my friends and acquaintance when not in health, to run over all the adventures of my travels ; and I thought, too, with the Moor of Venice, that if parts and parcels of my " hair-breadth 'scapes" would, at times, so much affect those I loved as I often found they did, the whole story told at once would move them to some kind attention to, and affectionate remembrance of, myself.

It may be asked, who is the person that offers us her narrative ? In this the reader shall be gratified, for short and simple are the domestic annals of one who has not reached her twenty fourth year. My maiden name^ was Abby Jane Wood. I am the daughter of Capt. John Wood, of New-York, who died at New-Orleans on the 14th of November, 1811. He was at that period master of the ship Indian Hunter, of New- York. He died when I was so young, that if I please myself with thinking that I remember him, I could not have been a judge of his virtues ; but it has been a source of happiness to me that he is spoken of by his contemporaries as a man of good sense and great integrity. I was born on the 17th of February, 1809, in the city of New-York. My early education was plain and regular in those branches then taught in respectable schools in my native city.

At my father's death, my mother placed the property which he left in the hands of a person who either by intention or mismanagement lost or retained the whole of it. This was a grievous affliction to my mother, as she was left with a family of helpless children to maintain. The belief that she was vilely robbed at first preyed upon her mind ; but the consolations of religion lifted her above all her troubles, and she found the promises of the Gospel true, that, " I will be a husband to the widow and a father to the orphan." In 1814 my mother married Mr. Burritt Keeler, a gentle man of a kind and generous disposition, "which has been manifested, not only to my mother, but to her children which she brought him at the time of their union. I can say, — and I think it my duty not to pass over the fact in this narrative, — that I feel towards my step-father as we should to those to whom we owe our existence, and to whom we are indebted for that paternal care which springs from the laws of nature and the social relations of life.

The days of my childhood passed away as those of other children, and brought with them the pleasures and pains, common to that season of life : one of my greatest enjoyments, and one which has fastened most strongly on my mind, was derived from a constant attendance on Sundays at St. Paul's or Trinity Church. I often called to mind these images, while floating upon the vast ocean, and considered the value of early instruction in religion; the house of prayer and the heaven-breathing music, with the solemn voice of holy men, and the precepts that fell from their lips, seemed all to come up, as it were, before me, and extend the worship of God all around, while the mighty abyss of waters was beneath us. The impressions made in youth upon the eye or the ear, as well as those upon the heart, live long upon the mind ; and there is nothing like distance from home, or solitude and danger, to brighten up these images.

The mind seems to find new fountains of refreshing waters from these recollec tions, which, while they purify and elevate, strengthen the soul for the hour of trial. Early in the year 1824 my cousin, Capt. Ben jamin Morrell, returned from a long voyage to the Pacific Ocean. I had not seen him since I was five years of age, and had hardly the slightest recollection of him. At our first interview I felt a friendship for him that I had never felt for any one before. His personal appearance, his gentle manly manners, and humane disposition, which was seen in his benigr.-uit face, as well as his ad ventures, Imd an effect upon my mind that I did not think of lightly. His visits to our house were constant for several weeks, when he offered me his hand, and, the match being acceptable to my parents, we were married on the 29th of June.

A short time after this event he informed me that he was soon to sail on a two years' voyage. I knew when I married him that I was to be the wife of a sea-faring man, but it was impossible for me to realize the distress of separation. Only a little month had passed away when my husband proposed to sail, and on the 18th of July this dreadful separation took place. I was calm, for it was a matter of duty and necessity ; but no one who has not felt them can tell the pangs of such a .separation. A bride of fifteen to see her husband depart for such a length of time requires more or less than the fortitude of woman. He left me, and for many nights my dreams were of him, on a boundless ocean, tossed by storms or ingulfed in the deep. To these grad ually succeeded dreams of his being wrecked on desolate islands, and subject to all the violence of savage men.

My feelings were probably the same as every good wife experiences when her spouse has left her for distant lands ; but I was so young that I had never run over in my mind any thing of this kind before, and all was as new as distress ing. At another time he would, in my imagination, be lying on a bed of sickness, with no one to give him a cup of cold water to cool his parched lips, or to render him a single act of kindness. " He h^s good sailors," said my friends. I was silent, but thought to myself, " A sailor is not a wife." In this manner passed my nights and days, until my husband came home, which was on the 9th of May, two months short of the time fixed for his return. I had heard that the vessel in which he sailed had arrived, and on going to a friend's with my sister to ascertain the fact, I met my husband in the street.

Our meeting was such as might be imagined by one who has been separated from a beloved husband so long. All my anxieties were at an end — all my hopes were realized — my hap piness was complete. There is a concentration of feeling, I may say of affection, after such an absence, that none but the wife of a mariner can know. I had dwelt upon the loves of those separated by the Crusades ; but the longer they were gone, and the more perilous their adven tures, so much the more delightful was the story. Yet it was not so to those mourning the long absence of him who roamed into far-distant lands, carrying with him plighted vows and everlasting affections. I have often thought that the ages of chivalry had not gone, as far as woman's love was a part of it. I believe human nature is the same in every age and nation, and all of good hearts feel alike, whether it is called romance or fact.

I can say for myself, that I have felt more than I have ever known described. After several European voyages, — during which we had a son, who, in his mother's eyes, bore a striking resemblance to his father, — in June, 1828, my husband sailed again for the South Seas. The separation seemed worse than before, and I then came to the determination that if he ever went to sea again I wouf d accompany him. This voyage was not so long as I thought it would have been ; he was gone but little more than a year, for he returned on the 14th of July, 1829. He had been but a short time on shore, however, when he planned another voyage to the Pacific. I had determined to go, and ventured to mention it to him. At first he would not hear a word of it, but when I insisted, as far as affectionate obedience could insist, he detailed to me all the evils of a sea-faring life.

I remained fixed, and he at last reluctantly yielded ; and when he had agreed to it, he put the best side outwards. I was now engaged in making preparations for a two years' voyage, which was no small affair, for many things were to be thought of in such preparations. All things being ready, on the 2d day of September, 1829, we embarked on board the schooner Antarctic, and set sail. The crew con sisted of twenty-three good sailors. A fine breeze wafted us from the shores of my native country, and I soon began to feel the importance of my undertaking, as it regarded myself. I had left my boy behind me, and distance seemed to make me more anxious for his welfare. I knew he was in good hands, but he was not in my own : I knew my dear mother would do every thing for him that I could, but nothing will satisfy a mother in regard to her offspring, but her own care.

While I was thinking of these things I began to grow sea-sick. The sensation can never be de scribed ; it prostrates sense, fortitude, feelings, and reduces the adult to the baby. On the morning ofthe second day I came on deck, and all was one boundless expanse of ocean ; the impression was one of magnificence, if my situation would not allow it to be one of pleasure. All was new to me ; the management of the ship, the discipline ofthe sailors, &c. ; all were so respectful towards my husband and myself, and so gentle towards each other, that one would have thought them a band of brothers. I often amused myself in gazing at the huge whales that tumbled about and sported in the deep around our vessel, seeming not to regard her any more than they would an egg-shell floating by them. The dolphins, too, so much admired by the ancients, as books tell us, were seen in great numbers.

They were often noticed pursu ing the flying-fish, who, to avoid their pursuers, arose from the water and kept in the air for the space of haff a minute or more, and then fell into the water again ; sometimes they would fly on our deck, and we picked up some that would weigh nearly half a pound. My sickness continued, and I was quite ex hausted by it ; but I had embarked at my own solicitation, and I did not suffer myself for a moment to repent, nor complain. I considered that it was my duty to bear up as cheerfully as I could. My husband saw with pain how much I endured, and did every thing in his power to make me comfortable ; but after all his care, I suffered much more than I complained of. I walked until I felt faint, got a little better, and then took up a book ; but in a few moments the lines would swim be sore my eyes, and a tale of the deepest interest would affect me no more than the dullest story ever told by dozing senility.

I have read of the stoics' bearing pain without any emotion, and wearing a smile on their countenances while their flesh was torn with pincers : it might have been so, but I think the most famed of that sect would have looked a little pale in a fit of sea sickness. On the 29th of September, one of the crew, Francis Patterson, died, after a very severe illness, supposed to have been brought on by having drunk too freely of ardent spirits in the early part of his life, and now leaving off suddenly. My husband had shipped his crew upon condition that they should abstain from all ardent spirits, unless as medicine to the sick. He was the first captain, I believe, that ever shipped a crew for so long a voyage on such terms ; and he found his account in it as a navigator, without saying any thing of the good done to the morals of these generally improvident men without such whole some restraints.

Patterson had reached the age of sixty-three, and had too long been in the use of ardent spirits to live many years, whether he ab stained or not. He was a fine old sailor, and had only this single failing, which is indeed a great one, on the sea or on shore. At four o'clock in the afternoon the funeral ser vices of the deceased took place. I supposed that the body would be thrown overboard without much ceremony, but it was not so ; the funeral was the most solemn I ever witnessed. The body was laid out with great decency, and then enveloped in a hammock and sewed up. About fifty pounds of stones were . secured to the feet, concealed by the hammock in which it was wrapped, for the purpose, as I presumed, of sink ing the body deep in the ocean. The corpse was extended upon a plank on the rail at the gang way, and all hands were called around, on the right side of the ship, to witness the solemn scene, and to join in the prayers to be offered up.

The colours were set half-mast, and the topsails and top-gallant-sails were settled down on the cap. Prayers were then read. The hardy crew were deeply affected at the scene. The furrows in their sunburnt faces were wet with tears. Never before had I beheld so solemn a group : I thought they had the kindest hearts of any set of men that ever lived. The prayers being over, a gun was fired from the bows of the schooner, and the body instantly launched into the bosom of the ocean. The plunge was a dreadful shock to my feelings ! I had heard the first shovelful of earth thrown upon a coffin in a grave-yard, at home ; that was heart-rending, but not so bad as this plunging into the deep. To the grave yard a friend might repair, at some suture day, and linger over the ashes of the dead ; might erect a stone at his head, and compose the mind by writing his virtues on the marble ; but here in this grave no mortal could tell where he was — the unconscious waters had closed over him for ever !

I was awakened from my revery by the shrill pipe of the boatswain, calling all hands to duty. In an instant the sails were set, and we were gliding onward. There was no longer any melancholy in the countenances of the brave sea men ; every one seemed to look as if he had done his duty, and had nothing to reproach himself with. The mate took his log-book, and wrote this sentimental epitaph : " Buried Francis Pat terson this day, in latitude 16° 35' north, and longitude 26° 2' west from Greenwich. He died yesterday. The weather now fair, winds light." " So sink the brave to rest," was my reflection ; and it is no matter where they rest, if they go down to the place thereof with the hopes of a resurrection and a life to come, The winds were light and variable until the 4th of October, when land was discovered on our starboard bow (I had now learned most of the sea-phrases).

After land was announced by the sailor at the mast-head, my husband went up, and I watched his ascension without emotion, for I had become familiar to the climbing of the sailors ; a month before I should have gone into fits to have seen him in what I then considered so dangerous a situation. The land proved to be St. Nicholas. The next day we saw the island of Bonavista, and in the afternoon we came to anchor in the harbour, about two miles from the town. It was pleasant for me again to see land, men, shipping, churches, &c. ; things I had been accustomed to all my life till the last thirty-three days. There was a breeze came from the shore that seemed to me to be refreshing. These men and women, though not wondrously well-looking, appeared to me to be beauties. I had seen nobody but our shipmates for so many days — many days for a female sailor.

These lew days, on retrospection, appeared to me nearly as long as my life had been. Early in the morning we received a visit from the health-officer, and at ten o'clock my husband and myself went on shore. The officer took us up to the governor, who with his amiable family received us with great kindness, and made us acquainted with their friends. Kind attentions are at all times pleasant, but when one is away from home it is delightful indeed to meet with those who love to pay all the courtesies of life as if it was their pleasure and happiness to do so. My.stay was short, but I shall long remember the politeness, yea, friendship of that accomplished family. They attended me to the boat, their servants bearing presents of such things as would be wanted on our voyage. Our separation came : we ladies embraced, and left each other with tears.