Tales of a Nomad: or, Sport and Strife

Preface

. A friend when conversing with the Author made the following observations : "I am sick of experiences of sport and adventure conveyed in the form of transcript from diary — why cannot people give us the grain without the husk, and thus avoid making us the victims of tedious prolixity ? You have had the experience, why don't you give us some of it in a condensed form ? We don't want to know why the favourite horse went lame on the near fore — how you cured the cook when he had a fit of colic — what you did when you were cooped up for a month by the rains — your adventures on the day you went out shooting and didn't see anything to shoot at — why you didn't get your letters by the mail — why the groceries gave out — your manœuvres for a month when you were not in touch with the enemy — and the precise dates, places, and distances which are of no interest to us.

We want to know just the pith of your experiences, and nothing more." My friend's words echoed my own sentiments. If a man has geographical facts to reveal like

PREFACE.

. Livingstone and Stanley had, then detail becomes interesting ; but when a man has only personal adventure to communicate, why the less of detail the better. Thus encouraged, the Author put certain ex periences into shape, in the hope that they might interest sportsmen and travellers, and would ask his readers to charitably overlook the faults of style and diction. CONTENTS. CHAl'TER PAGE I. A Ride for Dear Life, I II. My Five Buffaloes, 17 III. My Three Sea-cows, 41 IV. Various, 65 V. Flat Game and Small Game, 84 VI. The Storming of Secocoeni's, - 109 VII. The Siege of Marabastadt, 134 VIII. A Lucky Kill, 154 IX. My Big Tusker, 173 X. A Tale of Three Elephants, - - - -

Chapter I

A RIDE FOR DEAR LIFE. A FRONTIERSMAN'S YARN. Through plains covered with sparse thorn-bushes the Olifants River wends its way. Here it is about fifty yards wide, and is fringed with reeds on either bank. It is the dry season, and the current, which at times would sweep away men, horses, and waggons, has dwindled down till at almost any point a lad of twelve could cross with ease and safety. The withered vegetation, the bushes devoid of leaf and grey with thorns, display the effects of drought and of nightly frosts ; but everywhere the broad-bladed twitch grass, perennially green, abounds in quantity sufficient to keep cattle and horses in excellent condition through out the winter. To the eastward the rugged, forbidding-looking ranges of mountain which here constitute the frontier of Matshila's-land, stand up in clear relief against the un clouded sky.

Every crag, bush and rivulet are as dis tinct to the naked eye at four miles distance as they i would be in Europe at one mile with the aid of field glasses. It is evening, and troops of graceful roebuck are cropping the shoots of herbage and lazily twitching their tails, as with the dainty, stiff-kneed action peculiar to antelope they stalk down to the river in Indian file for their evening drink. The flocks of guinea-fowl are beginning to crrrruck-cuck-cuck-crrrruck, and the bush pheasant gives his discordant plaintive call as he prepares to roost. But why are the guinea-fowl suddenly silent, and why do the pallahs, giving one spring sideways, stand rooted with astonishment for five seconds, and then airily bound away in alarm ? Well they may, for since the hills first in order stood no such sound has ever disturbed the solitudes through which old Olifant flows as the pealing notes of the bugle which now strike upon the ear.

There amongst the bushes are rows of white bell tents, from which men are now issuing. They are clad in blue shirts, cord breeches, field-boots, and soft broad-brimmed felt hats, and have a hardy, tanned look. Each carries a currycomb and danderbrush and has a nosebag slung over his arm, and, albeit unshaven, they seem a service able body of men. They fall in on the markers in section column by the left at quarter distance. The roll is called, and then they break off and go towards their horses, which are picketed in ranks, and which display by their whinnying that they know the hour for feeding as well as the men do. "Halt! who comes there?" shouts a sentry. Two minutes later a couple of almost naked Basuto Caffres A RIDE FOB DEAR LIFE. 3 enter the camp, and are taken to the commandant's marquee.

As the sun sinks a strong guard is mounted, and the sentries are all doubled ; for it is war time, and no precaution is omitted. The mess bugle sounds, and the men gather in groups of eight for their meal. A strange crowd — English, Scotch, Irish, German and Afrikander, the last being invaluable as a frontiersman for his good shooting and horsemanship, and for his quick eye, knowledge of country, and cool self-reliance. Amongst them are all sorts and conditions of men — public schoolmen, university M.A.'s, and gentlemen emigrants, mixed with farmers, traders, and gold-diggers ; but the utmost good feeling prevails, and many a jest and yarn elicit repeated roars of laughter. It is as well under these circumstances to be on good terms with the quartermaster, for somehow or other after the nightly issue of grog ration there is always a surplus in hand, which, of course, it would be a sin to either throw away or to present to the Government ; so taking my pipe and my tin pannikin, I stroll off to pay my respects to that worthy.

" I say, quartermaster, who were those two natives who came in this evening? " " Can't say — they were friendly natives — I fancy they have been spying. I know the commandant is in touch with a lot of friendly natives, who keep their eyes skinned and bring him information. That issuer is a wonderful man ; he always brings me a balance over of just one quart of commissariat rum every night after issuing ; excellent man, but I won't recommend him for promotion, for he is so admirably suited to his present position — and to me. Let's play poker. Hullo, there's the commandant's orderly. What do you want ? All the rum is finished ; go to the issuer if you have any complaint." "The commandant wants Trooper X , sir." " I won't be long away, quartermaster ; keep my rum for me." So saying, I left the tent, and reported myself to the commandant.

He was seated at a small table, on which lay an open map. He was a man over six feet in height and of splendid physique. His marked features, resolute expression of countenance, quiet but decided manner and resonant voice, betokened courage and force of character. He was eminently a man to be trusted in the hour of danger or disaster. He was not a product of the school of discipline, but, like such men in all new countries, he had been brought to the front by a sort of process of natural selection, and owed his posi tion entirely to the personal qualities which he had often displayed on critical occasions. Perhaps some may recognise the portrait. " Trooper X " Yes, sir. " Are you disposed to go on special service ? " " That is a curious question to ask me, sir. I am ready to go wherever you order me, or my duty leads me."

" Yes, but I think it is hardly fair to send any particular man on a service of especial danger without asking him whether he is cheerfully prepared to incur the risks." " I know, sir, that you would not wantonly expose any man to unnecessary risk. The risk you hint at must be in the course of duty, and, that being so, I am quite prepared to undertake it cheerfully." " Well spoken, my lad. Did you see two natives come into the camp this evening ? " Yes. " They report to me that they have heard on good authority that a very large troop of the enemy's cattle are stowed away in the valley between the first and second range of hills — I mean between the range of hills you see to the eastward and another range behind that range and parallel to it. You will have to follow the course of the river, which runs through a gap in the hills.

When you have passed the gap, turn to your right and pass along the valley between this range and the next range. See here on the map. The valley narrows at this point ; I am told it is not more than about 400 yards wide just there. There is a town on the slope of the hills to the left, about half a mile beyond this neck, so you will have to go very cautiously, but when you have passed the town you are all safe. You go on about three or four miles until you come to a little round hill in the midst of the valley. " I am told there is a small patch of bush on this little hill. I want you to hide your horses in the bush, mount the hill, and, keeping yourselves hidden, watch the valley and ascertain if there are any troops of cattle — where they feed, and to bring me all the information you can.

I will give you an excellent man to accompany you. You can start when the moon rises to-night. You will reach the spot before daybreak. Remain hidden all day and return to-morrow night. That is all you have to do. You had better take fifty rounds of ball and two days' rations with you. I will lend you my field-glasses. Trooper G accompanies you. The adjutant in person will inspect you and give any final instructions — and, by the way, is your horse a silent one?" " Yes, excepting at stables, when he sometimes gives a whinny at the sight of forage." " That is well. I have known a good man to come to grief owing to an untimely neigh. Have you looked to his shoes lately ? " " Yes, sir ; he went to the farrier the day before yesterday, but he is only shod on the fore." "You want nothing better, even for the roughest ground in this country.

You may as well take this pocket-compass. Now, are you sure you fully under stand my instructions? " " Yes, sir." " Ah, well. Good-night, and, mind you, no smoking at night. I know you are a heavy smoker, but if you reflect that striking a match may cost you your life, I think you will be able to refrain." " May I ask you to do something for me, sir, in case I don't return ? " " Certainly, certainly. What can I do for you ? " " I should like to leave my father's address with you, and to ask you to communicate with him in case it should be necessary ; also to open all letters addressed to me, read them, and then burn them." " Quite so. I promise you faithfully I will do this, but I hope there will be no necessity for such a proceed ing on my part. However, enter the address in my memorandum book," and as he spoke he tossed me the book.

Having made the entry, I saluted, turned about in three motions, and left the tent. The commandant was one of those men who had the rare gift of maintaining discipline, not by the machinery of organisation, but solely by his individual force of character and personal influence. Wherever he took us we had a sort of feeling that he knew what he was about, and we all would have followed him unhesitatingly, even though it appeared to be into the jaws of certain death. I have known him ride up to a body of men who were under heavy fire, and who, being hardly pressed by an enemy of superior force, were beginning to get unsteady. The instant he appeared amongst them they became as steady as rocks. The great duke said of Bonaparte that his presence on the field of battle was equal to a reinforcement of 20,000 men.

It is hard to explain, but there are men who exercise this influence over their fellows. Irregular troops will not fight well unless they have confidence in their leaders ; indeed, trust is to them what discipline and organisation are to regular troops. Our commandant knew every man by name who served under him. There was no restraint in his manner, for he would converse freely with any of us in a way that is usually deemed to be destructive of all discipline. Few men have this power of keeping in close touch with their men, and yet not impairing their control. It is a special gift. Those who possess it not had better abstain from free contact with their subordinates. As a tactician he was bold in conception and swift in execution. Knowing the nature of his enemy thoroughly, he also knew just how far he could take liberties with them.

He never put his foot farther out than he could withdraw it again with safety. At times he apparently violated all the accepted canons of warfare. He would throw off his line of communication and lead us into positions of apparently great danger ; but he was as wise as he was bold, and no contingency was unforeseen or unprovided against. As a rule his movements were so rapid that before the enemy realised his intentions he had accomplished his object. Self-reliant energy is characteristic of the Afrikander, and the commandant was merely a typical specimen of his race. For generations past they have in insignificant numbers fought their way northward against savage hordes and dangerous wild beasts, their only weapon the rifle, their only book the Bible, and the constant struggle has evolved a singularly bold and hardy people.

As the moon rose Trooper G and myself paraded for inspection. After being very narrowly overhauled by the adjutant, who gave us a final injunction to be careful, we set out on our journey. Trooper G led the way. He was an Afrikander born of Irish parents. He was a fine rider, a fine shot, as brave as a lion, and withal, like most Irishmen, had a cheerful temperament which never deserted him even at the moments of gravest danger. "Mr. X- -, I'm thinking we may set to work and do all our smoking and talking now while we can do it with safety, for in the parts we are going to visit we are not exactly popular, so let us light up now." Thus we continued to smoke and converse in a low tone until we reached the point in the hills through which the river flowed. Dead silence was now to be our rule.

The frost had begun to fall, and it was some what cold work. A long ride in a frosty night invariably makes one feel sleepy. Any one much accustomed to riding ac quires the knack of sleeping in the saddle. It is a dubious kind of rest though. Every now and then as the head begins to nod and fall forward the sleeper is suddenly awakened. Besides this, one occasionally gets a reminder by a thorny branch brushing across one's face, or by the horse unwarily putting his foot into an ant-bear hole. However, as G had taken upon himself to do the piloting, I gathered as many winks of sleep as was possible under the circumstances. Eels are said to get accustomed to skinning, and men certainly get inured to exposure and discomfort. Since those days I have often, when travelling at night, com fortably seated in a first-class carriage of an express train, obtained a feeling of satisfaction by recalling to memory the discomforts incurred on a night patrol, and I am by no means sure that the immunity from dis comforts which accompanies a high state of civilisation may not in the long run sap the courage and energy of European nations.

My dozing was at last interrupted by G 's voice ; — ■ " Here we are ; there is the valley to our right ; we have been going for two hours ; that accords with in structions, doesn't it ? It should bear southward of us now ; take a look at the pocket-compass." Jumping off my horse, I covered the compass with my hat, while G struck a match under the hat. " Yes, that's all right ; let us aim our course between those two shoulders which descend from the hills on either side. I think we had better skirt to the right as much as possible, for the commandant said there was a Basuto town on the slope of the range to the left hand." In another half-hour we saw that the two ranges were getting nearer to us, and that we were approaching the neck of the valley. It was, however, difficult to exactly estimate the true size and distance of natural features by the light of the moon.

At last we reached the neck and hurried through it, keeping as much to the right as possible, with the double object of avoiding the proximity of the native town on the left, and also of keeping well in the shadow of the range of hills on the right. Ten minutes took us through the pass. There was evidently no Basuto town in the pass, for we saw no lights and heard no barking of dogs. The valley now widened out again. Suddenly we heard the barking of dogs apparently about half a mile off on the left of the valley. "Ah, there is the town," said G . "I hope the dogs are not taking alarm." " No, no. The nasty yapping brutes keep it up all night long." My horse's hoofs now ceased to sound as they struck the earth, and I experienced a sensation as though he were travelling over soft ground. An exclamation of impatient annoyance broke from G .

"What is the matter?" I asked. " Bad enough ; couldn't well be worse. We have got on to newly-cultivated land. If they visit this land to morrow morning they will be certain to see the hoof marks, and then we are done for. However, perhaps they mayn't come over this ground to-morrow. In any case we couldn't return to camp without having made an attempt to carry out our orders, so all we can do is to turn back and skirt this field in the hopes that they may not be working here to-morrow." We wheeled our horses round, and having regained the veldt went off at a tangent to avoid the cultivated ground. When we judged that we must be past it we resumed our direct course ; but the incident left an un pleasant impression on my mind, and my spirits were overshadowed by anxious presentiments of coming evil.

We proceeded for about two miles in this manner, when we saw a small round hillock looming up in the middle of the plain. In another ten minutes we reached it. At the foot was a small clump of bushes which we entered, and having off-saddled and affixed the nosebags, we tied up the horses, and ascending to the top of the hillock, wrapped ourselves in our overcoats and lay down to sleep, with the butts of our rifles as pillows. Youth, health, and nerves make a good nightcap, and in those days I could sleep sounder under conditions like this than I can now in a feather bed. At break of day I was roused by G , who was pulling my leg. Rubbing my eyes, I looked round me. Before us was spread a wide valley covered with scattered clumps of bush. From the slopes of the hills on both sides of the valley columns of smoke arose from Basuto villages.

On examining them with the field glasses I could see that they were all strongly fortified with schanses (or breastworks of stone), and behind them were precipices, or rugged masses of rock, in which, doubt less, were numerous caves in which the inhabitants of the villages took refuge whenever they were driven from their villages byan enemy. Each village contained several score of huts with round conical-shaped roofs, which projected above the walls of the schanses which encircled them. Far back behind us, and on the slope of the hill about half a mile from the neck of the valley through which we had passed on the previous evening, was a village of about a hundred huts. From the hill just above the neck itself was a cloud of smoke, showing that a picket was posted there. We must have passed within 300 yards of them during the night.

We could distinguish the patch of cultivated ground we had unwittingly trespassed upon during our last night's journey. We munched our biscuits and took a pull at our water-bottles by way of breakfast. At about nine o'clock from the villages at the farther end of the valley we saw four large troops of cattle descend into the plain and spread themselves out to feed. In the four troops there must have been at least 1200 or 1500 head of cattle. We discussed the situation, and speculated as to the intentions ofthe commandant. We conjectured that he must contemplate entering the valley by night with a body of men, lying in wait till the cattle came out to feed, capturing them all, leaving another body of men lying perdu near the neck, with orders to seize the hills on each side of the neck, and thus secure a safe exit from the valley for the party who seized the cattle.

All this seemed feasible enough, for the cattle were feeding so far out upon the plain that we could have galloped down from our hillock and have secured them before they could have been driven back within the shelter of the villages. There was, moreover, a gully about a mile farther on, and nearer to the cattle, which was capable of concealing almost any number of mounted men. As the sun rose higher the heat became more and more oppressive, and we looked forward rather ruefully to the prospect of lying stretched out upon our hillock all day long. About eleven a.m. Trooper G gave a whistle of astonishment, and, touching me on the arm, pointed back to the village near the entrance to the valley. On looking with the glasses, I saw a party of about a dozen women descending into the plain, carrying hoes and implements for field-work.

They were apparently going straight down towards the cultivated land on which we had trespassed during the night. Said Trooper G : " If they find our spoor of last night, we must gallop for it, for the whole of the people will turn out and search the valley until they find us ". We watched their progress with overwhelming anxiety. They reached the cultivated ground and began walking across it straight towards the spot we had traversed the night before. " By George ! it is all up," said G . " We might as well start off now. It will be a miracle if they don't see the spoor. We'll wait a bit, though, to see whether chance doesn't save us. No, no ; not a bit of good. See, they are almost on the very spot. Look, they are all running together to the very spot ; and now, by George ! look again ; they have set off running to the village as hard as they can go.

Come on, there isn't a moment to lose. Chuck on the saddles and let us be off for a life and death gallop." As he spoke we sprang to our feet and rushed down the hillock to where our horses were picketed, threw on the saddles and bridles (surely horses were never so swiftly saddled before), and in less than a minute were heading back for the entrance of the valley at a smart hand gallop. " Hold your horse together, Mr. X , there is no saying what call we may not have to make upon the nags." Rising slightly from the saddle to ease my horse, I gave the brave beast a couple of pats on the side of the neck, for I felt that he would not fail me at a pinch, and would do all that was required of him. " See ! " shouted G ; " look at those three columns of smoke from the picket on the hill at the right of the neck — that is the alarm signal — look at the people all running along the side of the hill from that infernal village.

If they reach the neck before we do they will form a line across it, and it will be a hundred to one if we can get through them alive, so let out your horse a bit." Notwithstanding the awful nature of our death-ride — notwithstanding the heavy stake depending upon it — I had a feeling almost of exultation, and could have shouted aloud. My good horse, puffing and snorting as he bore upon the bit, the thudding of his hoofs as he sped along, the wind whistling past my ears, all tended to raise my spirits. Men ride in earnest when the hounds are running into a sinking fox ; but no men ever rode more earnestly than we twain did for our dear lives — a strained sinew, a stumble, a girth failing, and I should not have been here to-day to tell the tale. The natives were racing down in hundreds to try and reach the neck before we did, and it became a question as to who would reach the neck first.

Nearer and yet nearer — we were almost at the neck — from the hills on the right about sixty natives, the advanced guard of those who were coming from the village, were running down into the valley to block our track. We saw that we must pass them within a very few yards, and that it was merely a question of seconds as to whether we got past them at all. We bent our horses to the left, for they were almost in front of us now. G shouted : " Now, Mr. X — ■ — , let him out and ride as hard as you can ". I got hold of his head, and driving in the spurs rode him on the bit as well, and we managed to dash past them within sixty yards. As we did so they gave a yell, and a volley rattled out from their rifles, the bullets chirping and hissing all round us. I saw G flinch and bend slightly over his saddle-bow, and I felt a peculiar tingling sensation in my left arm.

My horse, too, gave a flounder. "Hurrah!" shouted G as we dashed along the valley, and sped out at the farther end of the neck into the plain. But my horse was going in a very cramped way, and I had to shout to G to draw rein. I pulled up, and on dismounting I found that he had been shot through the thigh. At the same time the trickling of something warm down my left arm and hand revealed to me that I had been wounded also. G galloped back and shouted : " The horse is dead lame ; leave him and jump behind me ". I noticed that his lips were very white. With some difficulty I mounted the croup of his horse, which carried us on at a reduced speed under the double burden. G only spoke once the whole time. "By George! the only thing I regret is that I hadn't a chance of dis mounting and gruelling one of them."

I now felt terribly thirsty and faint from loss of blood, so as we neared the river I asked G to stop and let me dismount for a drink. He handed me his water bottle, saying, " Please fill it — I am afraid to dismount". " Why, G , what is the matter? " " Oh, I rather think I am shot through the stomach, but I think I can manage to get to camp if I don't dismount." I handed up the water-bottle, and the poor fellow took a long drink. In another couple of hours we were in camp again. G insisted on reporting himself to the adjutant, and having delivered his information was lifted from the saddle by many friendly hands, and conveyed to the hospital tent. A couple of days later on three volleys were fired over the poor fellow's grave. I was recompensed by the Government for the loss of my horse. That very night the commandant ordered a full patrol.

He knew that the cattle would all be removed from that valley to some other spot. He made a shrewd guess at their whereabouts, and succeeded in raiding 600 head on the following morning, and shooting more than thirty of the enemy in revenge for the death of poor G , at the same time only having two of our men slightly wounded. I was in hospital for a fortnight, and rapidly recovered from my wound. Since then I have followed the com mandant on many a dangerous path, but never till my last day shall I forget that ride for dear life.