Lake Country Romances ... With ... illustrations, etc

Preface

. I have to thank the proprietor of the Westmorland Gazette for the suggestion that I should write these ' Romances of the Lake Country,' and for his ready consent to their republication by Mr. Elliot Stock. I have also to acknoAvledge my obliga tions for characters, customs and incidents to Boccaccio, to Nicholson and Burn's ' Local History,' to Balmer's ' AVest morland,' to Nicholson's ' Annals of Kendal,' and to Mr. Pollitt's ' Local Chronology.' Kendal, April io, 1892. LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. fAGE SCOUT SCAR IN [JNDERBARROW ----- 8 NETHEK BRIDGE, KENDAI. - - - - - -25 KENDAL CASTLE, A.I). I552 ------ 1 16 WITHIN THE CASTLE ------- 168 WINDERMERE LAKE - - - - . ___(, ANCIENT KENDAL ------- 207 SEASHORE AT ALDINGHAM - - - ■ 221 FIIRNESS ABBEY, A.D. 1280 - - -

Chapter I

' There's a lady — an earl's daughter : she is proud and she is noble : And she treads the crimson carpet and she breathes the perfumed air ; And a kingly blood sends glances up her princely eye to trouble, And the shadow of a monarch's crown is softened in her hair.' E. B. Browning. Tavo miles from Kendal Castle, and lying almost due Avest, there is a stretch of moorland covered Avith bracken, and heather, and bushes of juniper. It is known as Scout Scar : it is a remarkable tableland, ending suddenly in a long gray lime stone cliff. The perpendicular precipice, as you walk along its terrace, stands seven hundred and twenty feet above the sea, and commands a glorious vieAv of the Lake mountains, of the Avaters in Morecambe Bay, and of the peaceful Underbarrow Valley, Avhich is one of the most fertile in AVestmorland.

Towards the close of a sultry day in September, in the year 1542, two men were Avalking along the edge of Scout Scar. One was a sturdy young farmer, named James Laybourne, younger son of Sir James Laybourne, of CunsAA'ick Hall. Three hundred and fifty years ago he Avas the master of the farm at Bradleyfield. The other was an aged but vigorous man of slender figure, Avith the look of the prophet in his eyes — a curious blending of shrewd penetration Avith the happy, almost infantile, smile of the mystic, who dreams of brighter worlds than this AA'orld of care, — to Avhom the firmament is a theatre of visionary armies and courts, — and to whom the soft sighing of forest breezes become audible voices. This man AA-as named Henry Hailed ; he had been a priest in Kendal, and was even in his old age a diligent student.

Many years before, he had earned renown as an astrologer, and shortly after the birth of Katharine Parr, at Kendal Castle, he had prophesied that she AA'ould be a great personage in England and Avould become queen of the realm. In her youth Katharine had carried her head loftily, believing that one day this prophecy of the astrologer's AA'ould be fulfilled. But she had a tender heart, and love was with her a more poAverful motive than ambition. Attractive, high-minded, and devout as she AA-as, twice already she had fallen in love, and had been married to gentlemen Avho AA-ere not of the blood royal : first she AA'as married to Edward Burghe, and then to Lord Latimer, both of whom had died ; and at the opening of this story she Avas staying at Kendal Castle AA'ith her mother and brother. She Avas a AvidoAv of twenty-nine summers, and the dream of her youth Avas almost forgotten.

She had AA'ritten a book of prayers, and AA'as a deA'out AA-oman of great compassion and sweet dignity, and Kendal tOAvnsfolk rejoiced that she had come back to grace the tOAvn AA-ith her presence. Her figure AA'as still girlish, and there AA'as nothing to tell the tale of her sad experience except the look of tranquil strength AA'hich sobered both men and maidens as they looked into her level gray eyes. Although Katharine had ceased to think of Henry Halled's prophecy, the old man kept his faith that it Avould be fulfilled. As he Avalked along the cliff Avith young James Laybourne, the conversation AA-andered from topic to topic, from Katharine Parr to Kendalian affairs, from the Lutheran heresy to the preaching of Latimer, and the death of Thomas Crom- Avell ; and they talked of certain books AA'hich they had both read — that is to say, the account of a voyage to the NeAv AVorld by Amerigo Vespucci, and of More's ' Utopia,' for they were both able to read and write, and were reckoned amongst the scholars of Kendal.

James Laybourne had knoAvn Katharine Parr all his life, and had retained his bachelor's estate chiefly because of his love for her. To-day he ought to have been in the field with his harvest-men, for his crops lay in the valley, the atmosphere Avas heavy, and the clouds were gathering beyond AVitherslack. But the return of Katharine to Kendal had made him restless and the duties of the farm unwelcome, and he was glad of the company of the old scholar Avho had knoAvn Katharine from her childhood. Master Hailed cherished an affection for Katharine that Avas almost paternal, and AA'as ready to talk to the farmer of the theme Avhich lay nearest to his heart, albeit he kneAv nothing of young Laybourne's love. It AA-as only through patient tact and skill that the younger man brought back the eager thought of his companion to the subject of his OAvn desire. ' I tell thee, Master James,' the old man Avas saying, 'I am not the only priest who has flung aside the surplice as super stitious.

None of us who have known of the daring of Luther since he began his work at AVittenberg or Avatched the Avork in England for Avhich Sir Thomas More lost his life can be satisfied.' Hailed sighed deeply, and was full of emotion as he pressed his lips against the cover of a book AA'hich he carried in his hand. 'It is my duty to honour my King,' he continued, 'but I tell thee the religion of England is in danger. It is no longer a living force in the land ; and when the Church has groAvn poAverless either to advise or resist the King, Ave stand as surely on the verge of ruin as we stand on the verge of this Scar. Priests and laymen have groAA'n both careless and worldly. It was but yesternight that I heard of the patron of Howcastle presenting his benefice to his gamekeeper and putting the stipend in his own pocket.' ' Ay ! ay !' assented the other, ' we move from bad to worse ! and now it is as bad as it can be.

It makes me long for the days of Cardinal AVolsey. Such things could not have happened in his time. He was a good administrator, but a feeble supporter of our Church. Still, he withstood the King, and upheld the Church better than any Avho have followed him. If the welfare of the Church Avere committed to my keeping, I Avould shrink from no King.' ' God grant thou mayst never be tried !' interposed the old man ; ' I have already reason to fear that thou wilt lose thy head in the end.' ' Our discourse becomes too serious for this oppressive atmo sphere,' said the farmer with an unconscious smile ; ' but, i — Master Hailed, tell me,— what is the news I hear concerning Katharine Parr? Christopher Philipson, of Crook, told me yesterday she had returned.' Henry Halled's face assumed a still more serious and troubled expression Avhen young Laybourne thus lightly changed the subject. 'I believe 'tis true,' he said, 'and yesterday I walked fruit lessly near the Castle hoping to see her, for I had a message of Avarning for the lady borne in upon me, which I could not suppress.

Here it is, Avritten carefully, but still in the hand that Avrote it ; for I could not find her, although I lingered near the Castle for a full hour, and alas ! since my outspoken Avords in the church on the side of Sir Thomas More, I have not been welcome at the Castle. Nevertheless, I know the Lady Katharine loves me Avell, and favours the cause of freedom, and Avould give me an audience if she knew.' The old man produced a sealed letter. Laybourne listened eagerly, for his heart Avas sorely smitten AA'ith love for Katharine. 'She is threatened Avith no serious harm, Master Hailed, I trust ?' ' Nay, I knoAv of nothing certainly ; only my heart misgives, and I look daily for neAv omens and a fuller revelation. But if thou wilt convey this letter to the lady I shall be glad.' The young man seized it eagerly, and looking at Master Hailed with an expression of concentrated pity and defiance, he said : ' Tell me, Master Hailed, Avhat thou fearest.' ' Canst thou place the letter into her hands, quickly ? nay, it should be delivered to-night at the latest : for she goes to Car lisle to-morroAV.' For the moment the scholar ignored young Laybourne's question. ' I Avill give it to AVilliam Crick, my man-servant, and he shall deliver it to-night.' ' Then I will tell thee Avhat I fear for the Lady Katharine.

I fear the King himself. It Avas an auspicious day at Kendal Castle when the fair Katharine Avas born. Every augury and portent indicated that Heaven had foreordained the child to be Queen of this realm. But thou knoAvest how we can thwart for a season the best designs of God. AA:hen the child was young I was her tutor, and one summer afternoon as we sat together near the mountain ash, which still casts its shadoAv over the draAvbridge at the Castle gate — I remember the scene as if it were yesterday — I told her of her destiny. She grew up AA'orthy of it — pious, pitiful, dignified, and strong — as any queen should be. I tell thee, Master Laybourne, it Avould have been a happy day for England if the King had taken her for his help mate twelve years ago. Already he has had five Avives, and not one of them was fit to be his queen.

But noAv the King is changed. Tavo faithless wives, the cares of the realm, and many grievous disappointments, have made his Majesty petulant and morose. AVhat I have hitherto hoped, and prayed for, now I fear. The King is free to Aved again, and the Lady Katharine is free. If by the providence of God, or the design of man, these two should meet, the augury will be fulfilled, and Katharine will yet be Queen of this realm. It has been the dream of my life, Master Laybourne, but now I fear its realization.' The old man looked mournfully over the valley, where the thunder-clouds Avere still gathering. ' Do not meet trouble at the halfway house,' said the young man. ' The Lady Katharine will stay in AVestmorland, and there is little likelihood of the King's journeying so far North; they Avill not meet each other, I trust.' As he spoke his face flushed for a moment, and then greAv paler than before. ' I have been thinking ofthese things ever since the Lady Katharine's Avidowhood,' replied the old man ; ' here in this book which I was reading, when you so kindly came to talk Avith me, I find advice AA'hich the King Avould be wise to folloAA'.

It is A\'ritten, as thou knoAA'est,by a dear martyred friend of mine, who suffered death at the King's displeasure, but one AA'ho was ex ceedingly well pleased Avith the handicrafts of Kendal.' He held a book tenderly tOAvards James Laybourne, which proved to be the 'Utopia' of Sir Thomas More. 'I had the good fortune to visit Sir Thomas twice in London, Avhen he Avas the favourite of the King, and on both occasions he inquired par ticularly as to our manufacture of Avoollen cloth. I have had many good friends in my life, but none I honoured so much as Sir Thomas More, and my heart is torn and sore as I recall his undeserved fate. Often as I walk in solitude along this Scar, I seem to see his keen, irregular face, his restless, kindly eye, his tumbled brown hair. Truly he had a daring mind, and men feared his opinions, but 'twas good for a man's soul to see his eye brighten, and to note hoAV his tongue faltered AA'hen he spake of heaven and the after-life.

There has been no greater patriot in all England than Sir Thomas More. AVhen he Avas Chairman of the Parliament, and observed how the King was disposed to increase the number of gibbets in the land, and en force sterner penalties against theft and vagabondage, Sir Thomas thrice directed the King's attention to our town, and urged his Majesty to introduce the Avoollen manufactures in other English toAvns, believing that if there could be an increase of honest Avork the sheepstealers Avould become industrious, and there would be less theft. The King himself does not like this importation of woollen goods from Flanders, and it is rumoured that he may grace AVestmorland — if not our tOAvn — AA'ith his royal presence ere long. It is beyond doubt that manufactures brirg more prosperity to a nation than agriculture.

Look at the artisans of Kendal, Avho have comfortable homes, who earn four shillings a week even in Avinter, and compare them Avith the agricultural labourers who live in the mud dwellings of this Underbarrow Valley, lying at our feet — who can only earn tAvo shillings in the week by their utmost effort, and thou wilt know what grave national interests are tempting the King to visit us.' ' What !' exclaimed Laybourne, ' will the King come to Kendal ?' caring, evidently, more for the Avelfare of Katharine Parr than for the industries of England. ' Nay, nay, thou art too apprehensive for so brave a man ; I have taught thee a little logic before to-day, and I am tempted to quote thine own text, " Do not meet trouble at the halfway house." I only tell thee what may happen. I say only this, that there is good reason for his coming, and that Sir Thomas More during his lifetime often urged the King to see our famous caravan of fifty pack-horses leaving Kendal on their long journey over AA'rynose and Hardknott laden with the cloth of the Kendal weavers.

AA'e think little of it because we see the pack-horses in Stricklandgate every day, but I tell thee it is a matter for conversation and wonder in both the Court and Par liament at London.' The air was oppressive, and the thunder-cloud hung in a dense black mass, entirely obliterating Gummer's How from the prospect. SCOUT SCAR IN UNDERKARROW. ' Dost see that white bird in the valley soaring ufnvards towards the heavy cloud* It is an omen. Wait! aud let us see the end of it.' KATHARINE PARR. 9 ' I pray God that Lady Katharine may be delivered from the King,' said the young man. Even as he spoke the first drops of heavy rain began to fall. Twice they had heard the rumble of thunder in the distance. Noav there AA-as a flash of lightning so vivid as to make them momentarily blind. This AA-as folloAved immediately by a deaf ening clap of thunder, and young Laybourne turned away from the edge of the Scar, intending to seek the shelter of his home stead. ' Come indoors,' he said. ' AA'ait, wait !' said Hailed, regardless of both the invitation and the rain. ' Dost see that Avhite bird in the valley soaring upwards towards the heavy cloud ?

It is an omen : and it does not concern Katharine, but thee. AVait !' he repeated, ' and let us see the end of it.' A sea-gull, which had been feeding in the Underbarrow beck, startled by the thunder, rose rapidly, as if to escape the storm by piercing the black cloud and rising above it. Its Avhite shapely form AA'as A'ery conspicuous against the background of unnatural darkness. It moved its vrings with unwonted energy, as if urged by an instinctive fear of death. No fitter symbol could be imagined of a AA'hite soul struggling to overcome the powers of ignorance, brute-force, or superstition ; for the thunder-cloud covered half the firmament and stretched out long arms Avhich resembled the mailed and jointed limbs of a dragon. Both men AA'ere intensely interested in the spectacle. The bird mounted nearer to the cloud until it appeared as a speck of silver.

But the clouds Avere rent again by a second vivid flash of lightning at the very point where the bird seemed likely to disappear. As soon as they Avere able to see, hoAvever, they saAv that the sea-gull Avas killed, for it fell helplessly through space, doAvn, doAvn, AA'ith stiffened outstretched wings and drooping head into the valley again. The men turned aAvay from the cliff, and Avalked in silence rapidly tOAvards the farmstead at Bradleyfield. Both had been deeply impressed by the tragedy they had witnessed, and both faces wore a troubled expression as they looked at each other. 'Dost thou still regard that stricken bird as an omen of my latter days ?' inquired the young man. 'God forbid,' replied Hailed, 'I know not. I have made many mistakes in my life, and doubtless this is another.

KA THARINE PARR. Trouble thyself no more because of my garrulous tongue. Thou art an upright man ; albeit too much of an enthusiast for these times of strife and change. Thou deservest a better fate than that omen foreshadoAved, and I pray God thou mayst have peace.' But every line on the old scholar's face acknoAvledged what his lips endeavoured to deny.

Chapter II

' My messenger (a man by danger tried) Waits in the courts below : and ere our star Upon the sorehead of the dawn hath died, Heart os my heart ! this letter will be far.' Oaven Meredith. ' To love and at the same time to be wise is scarcely granted even to a God. ' — Sententue. William Crick, the farm-servant at Bradleyfield, was not altogether pleased when his master gave him a letter to carry to Kendal Castle. He had promised faithfully to meet a certain kitchen-maid that evening, named Liddy, who was em ployed by Master Philipson, at Helsfell Hall. The extra work in the harvest-field and the interruption caused by the thunderstorm had made him later than usual with his work. He accepted the letter Avith the customary smile, which filled his face with wrinkles, and reduced his eyes to mere chinks, and promised to deliver it during the evening.

But he re solved that first he would hasten across the moor, Avhich lies between Bradleyfield and Helsfell. and pacify his sweetheart, and then he AA'ould deliver the letter at the Castle, although it could not fail to be late in the evening when he arrived there. AA'illiam and Liddy had been engaged for tAvelve years. He was twenty when he first began to keep company with her, and now he was thirty-two. Twice she had given her master notice of her intention to leave in order to be married, and she was satisfied now that William could not be urged into any rash act of matrimony by this device. AVhen she upbraided, he only smiled and felt proud of such tokens of her regard. He was a brave man in ordinary affairs, as he had proved twice in border Avarfare, but a most cautious man in regard to matrimony.

He had taken to heart a rhyme Avhich had caught his attention on one of the beechen roundels with AA'hich gentle folks were accustomed at that time to play a game of chance. The rhyme fascinated him because it seemed to apply to his case, but also because it left him in a singular state of un certainty, and it ran as folloAvs : ' If thou be young, then marry not yet ; If thou be old, thou hast more wit ; For young men's wives will not be taught, And old men's wives be good for naught.'* AVilliam Crick took his love affair AA'ith quiet thankfulness, but Avithout enthusiasm. It Avas the only continuous excitement of his uneventful life. Courtship AA'as quite enough to satisfy his contemplative nature ; he AA-as loth to forego the undoubted enjoyments of his present simple life by venturing headlong into the untrodden ground of matrimonial realities.

Very little remains to-day of the ancient Helsfell homestead. An unpretentious farm, called LoAver Helsfell, consisting of a little house leaning against a very high barn, is still to be seen, separated by a field from Higher Helsfell, Avhich is a much larger farm Avith numerous outbuildings. But whoever cares to examine the barn at Little Helsfell will find that it has been at one time a substantial dAvelling of three stories : the halfobliterated mullion AvindoAvs on the outside and the capacious fireplace Avithin, bearing ample testimony to its * A set of beechen roundels, from one of which these lines are taken, was discovered some years ago in an old chest in the Castle Dairy, in Wildman Street, Kendal, together with an ancient missal, and a manuscript genealogy of the Saxon kings from Adelvvald of Northumbria, down to Edward the Martyr.

The roundels are said to be of the time of Henry VIII. The wood of which the roundels are composed is beech ; they may be de scribed as circular discs about five inches in diameter. On the centre of each there is painted an animal, such as a camel, a squirrel, a fox, or an elephant, together with a four-lined motto in rhyme something like the above, or the following may serve as another specimen : ' If that a bachelor thou be Kepe thee so styli : be rulede by mee Lest that repentaunce all to latt Reward thee with a brocken patte.' There are twelve beechen roundels in this set, but it is a curious fact that they almost invariably decry the characters of the gentlewomen of that day, or recite the praises of the bachelor's life. former greatness. And it is quite as evident that the older portions of the farm called Higher Helsfell are the remains of the Roman Catholic chapel AA'hich AA'as formerly connected with Helsfell Hall.

Indeed, it is said that during the lifetime of the tenant Avho preceded the present occupant it had its oavii burial ground, witb gravestones which marked the last resting place of many a Philipson and many a faithful priest. So at the appointed hour William Crick strolled down the hillside to the gate at Helsfell Hall, where Liddy soon ap peared, and one of the first things he mentioned to her Avas the fact that he could not stay long, because the letter for the Lady Katharine ought to be delivered at once, according to his master's injunction. It Avas not the first time that love had interfered Avith duty. Previously his master had rated Crick for his late return from Helsfell Hall, and William had grinned and said : ' I cannot help it, master. She sticks to me like a burr in the rags of a beggar, and I Avouldn't hurt her feelings for the world.' So it fell out on this autumnal evening, under the trees near the gate, Avhen Liddy Avheedled and hung about his neck, and said, ' Don't go yet, don't go, AA;illiam !' he began to ex perience the pernicious efficacy of female eloquence.

And in order not to expose his OAvn firmness of purpose to any further assaults and trials he took an unceremonious depar ture. ' William, it's groAving dark noAA',' cried Liddy ; ' it's a lang way to the Castle ; and there are bad felloAvs in the tOAvn. Are you not freetened ?' ' Nay, nay,' he replied ; ' I've lived too lang in a wood to be freetened of owlets.' And Avith this parting assurance he took a short cut across the fields Avhich brought him to Kendal Fellside. Now, there stand in Stricklandgate to this day, opposite the Black Hall, two houses Avhich at that time Avere one, and Avere knoAvn as Air. BroAvnsAvord's house. For purposes of identifica tion I may mention that it was in later years known as the Pack horse Inn. Mr. BrownsAA'ord had a long garden behind his house which ran up tOAvards the Fellside as far as Grandy Nook, and it happened that, as AVilliam Crick was anxious to make all possible speed, he climbed the wall of this garden at Grandy Nook, intending to cross Stricklandgate between Mr. Brownsword's house and the Black Hall, and so make for himself a short-cut to the Castle.

Mr. Brownsword's gardener Avas a careful man, and very much given to the culture of the onion ; and in consequence of these tAvo qualities it followed that he had buried in the uppermost corner of the garden a large cask so deeply that the rim came level Avith the ground. Into this cask he cast his Avaste vegetable products, certain road scrapings, and other com pounds, supposed to be the staff of life in the vegetable king dom, which, notAvithstanding, shall here be nameless, although such matters are dear to the hearts of all careful gardeners. AVhen AVilliam Crick had climbed the garden Avail he took a leap in the dark, and soon found himself Avaist-deep in the contents of this cask. He scrambled out hastily and Avithout any damage to his person, but smelling so strongly of onions that he at once conceived the idea of going doAvn to the river to cleanse himself.

The entrance to Mr. BroAvnsAA'ord's house, like many others in Kendal, did not abut directly upon the street, but stood half-Avay through a covered passage — on the right hand side — Avhich passage also led into the garden. AVhen AVilliam Crick arrived in Stricklandgate he stood for a moment in the shadow of this passage and looked cautiously along the street. He saw two men coming towards him with a dark lantern. As he feared that they might be either the AA'atchmen of the town or bad characters, he concealed himself by step ping backAvards in the darkness and standing out of sight in Mr. BrownsAvord's doorway. The men, AA'ho AA'ere strangers in the town, entered the passage a moment afterwards, as if they had agreed to folloAv him. They stood so near to him that he saw them lay several suspicious-looking iron tools on the ground, and examine them in the light of their lantern.

A large bunch of keys, two strong but short crowbars, a mason's chisel and hammer, lay upon the ground, and whilst they were talking about those different tools, one of them said to his companion, ' AVhat an extraordinary stench of garlic !' Turning the light of the lantern in all directions, he soon discovered Crick, who, in spite of his apprehensive grin, began to think himself a most unfortunate man. They were both strongly built men, with determined faces, and it Avas too evident that they were bent upon some unlawful enterprise; but hearing the story of Crick's adventure, and having consulted together for a short time, they said to him : ' Look here, fellow ; Ave have no desire to quarrel Avith you, and if you will help us in carrying out a task we have in hand you shall have a share in the spoil.' In his despair AA'illiam Crick replied that he AA'as ready for anything.

Now, on the previous day, AArilliam, the Abbot of St. Mary's, in York, who had also been Vicar of Kendal from the year 1495, had been buried Avithin the church. In accordance AA'ith his dying request, he had been interred in rich vestments and Avearing a chain of gold AA'hich was said to be worth tAvelve pounds. These things they Avished to steal, and told Crick of their design. Fearing the consequences of a refusal, he cast prudence to the AA'inds, and stoutly alleged his willingness to join them. Just as they were leaving Mr. BrownsAvord's passage, to Avalk towards the church, they looked up the street towards the Market Cross, which then stood on the eminence at the head of Stricklandgate, and they saw a company of the tOAvn's Avatchmen coming towards them, for there had been Scotch raids upon the town, and the guards were active and well equipped.

In order to escape observation, Crick and the tAA'O strangers at once turned back and Avalked hastily as far as the SAvine paddock, and then resolved to get to the church by Avay ofthe Fellside and Garth Heads, and thus avoid the main street. They Avere AA'alking stealthily along the Fellside, when one of the strangers stopped near the Rotten Row, and said : ' Comrade, this odour of garlic is intolerable to me. 'Tis worse than the tallow chandler's melting-house on melting day. Canst find no Avay of cleansing thyself before we begin the night's Avork ?' ' Nay,' replied Crick, ' I was going straight to the river Kent for that purpose, Avhen you stepped into my hiding-place ; but it is impossible to get to the river now, without encountering the AA-atchmen.' Near the end of Rotten Row there was a deep well, which remains to this day ; at that time it had a windlass, a chain, and a bucket at the top ; and one of the strangers, observing this, said : ' Let him go doAvn and wash in this well.