Wild Life among the Koords

Front matter

WILD LIFE AMONG THE KOOEDS. LONDON : SAVILL, EDWARDS AND CO., PRINTERS, CHAND08 STREET, COVENT GARDEN. WILD LIFE AMONG THE KOOKDS BY MAJOR FREDERICK MILLINGEN, F.R.G.S. AUTHOR OF *LA TUR'iUIE SOUS LE EBGNE d'aBDUL-AZIZ. LONDON : HURST AND BLACKETT, PUBLISHERS, 13, GREAT MARLBOROUGH STREET. 1.870. The Right of Translation is reserved. TO SIR RODERICK IMPEY MURCHISON, BART., K.C.B, F.R.S., Eio. PRESIDENT OF THE ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY. I venture to dedicate to you, Sir, this record of my travels and adventures in those regions of the East which, on account of their historical associations, and the vicissitudes of fortune which they have experienced, are so interesting to mankind in general, in the hope that, from the geographical and ethnological information which it contains, my work may be found in some measure worthy of your patronage. I have the honour to be, Sir, Your faithful Servant, Frederick Millingen.

Preface

. A STRIKING proof of the power exerted over ■*•■*■ the human mind by historical and religious traditions, is the irresistible attraction which the localities known as having been the scenes of extraordinary events have over our imagination. What can better illustrate this fact than the attraction exerted by Palestine, Egypt, Greece, and Italy on the minds of men from generation to generation ? The traditions attached to these countries have been handed down as a valuable inheritance from father to son, and every successive generation has endeavoured to rival that which preceded it by sending forth a series of travellers on perilous journeys, with the view of instituting diligent, and often unrewarded, researches into the present condition and past history of lands so celebrated. But, besides Italy, Greece, Egypt, and Palestine, where little is left to reward scientific investigations, is there no other country which attracts our attention and deserves our labours ? The high plateau of Armenia, Northern Koordistan, is a country which,

PREFACE.

. had it no other claim on the world's attention, has unquestionably that of historical priority, being believed to have been twice the cradle of the human race, and subsequently the seat of the Assyrian, Median, and Armenian monarchies. That Northern Koordistan is the country repre sented as having been, in the first instance, the cradle of the human race, the Eden of the Bible, is proved by a comparison of the Scriptural text with the topo graphic features and climate of that region. It is stated, in the second chapter of Genesis, that there was in the Garden of Eden a " river" from which diverged four streams, the Pison, the Gihon, the Hiddekel, and the Euphrates. Of these four streams or rivers three have their source in the mountainous region of Northern Koordistan, the province of Van, and are known in our days by similar names.

The Gihon is stiU called by the Persians the Djihoon-ra-asar, the Araxes of western nations ; the Hiddekel is known as the Dedjel, while the Euphrates is denominated the Fratt. As for the Pison, no traces of its ex istence, or of the course which it pursues, have yet been ascertained. The existence of these three rivers is a powerful evidence in proof of the identity of this region with the land where the Garden of Eden is stated to have been. Notwithstanding any objection which may be brought to bear against this fact, I am convinced that

PREFACE.

. IX the high plateau os Armenia possesses such points of similarity with the description of the Garden of Eden that little or no doubt can be entertained that it must have been the scene of the early events con nected with the history of our race recorded in the Book of Genesis. This belief is based on the foUowing considerations. While the plateau formed by Lake Van and its tributaries is endowed with great fertility, and possesses in a high degree the charms of natural beauty, this garden-like territory is surrounded by wastes of relatively sterile soil and sun-burnt plains. The splendid scenery and the exuberant fertility of this region are still as proverbial as they must always have been throughout the East. The belief amongst Turks, Koords, and Christians of all races is that no place on earth can equal this favoured spot, the common saying being " Duniada Van, khareteh iman" — In this world Van, in the other Faith.

The second instance in which the high plateau of Armenia is believed to have been the cradle of the human race was after the Deluge. It is related in Genesis that Noah's ark rested on Mount Ararat, from which centre his children spread in all directions over the earth. This scriptural statement is supported by the traditions which exist among the different races of Northern Koordistan. According to these tra ditions, the ark touched ground at first on the Subhan mountain, which rises above the north-western shore

PREFACE.

. X of Lake Van, but, as Noah could not succeed in effecting a landing there, he remained seven days more within the ark, till it rested at last on Ararat, where he and his family made their exit from it. The Scriptures are thus in harmony with tradition to prove that this part of Asia was the cradle of the human race after the diluvian catastrophe. This summary reference to the geography and his tory of this region is intended to convey to the reader a general view of the subject which the contents of the work will develop in its details. In my work, "La Turquie sous le Regne d' Abdul- Aziz," published in 1868, I was compelled to sacrifice, in a great measure, geographical and ethnological questions to paramount political interests. The highly flattering testimonial,* however, which Sir Roderick Murchison, President of the Royal Geographical Society, granted to this work on account of the geographical and ethnological details which might be gleaned from its contents, has encouraged me to undertake the present publication, trusting that, through my exertions, a gleam of light may be thrown on the present con dition of that portion of the globe which was at one time the seat of mighty empires, but is now sunk under the weight of ignorance and barbarism. * See address at the meeting of the Royal Geographical Society, 25th May, 1868. Millingen's "Observations on Armenia and Koordistan." CONTENTS.

Chapter I

Travelling Preparations — Beheram-Agha — Departure from Erzerum — The Kiunbet — Deveh-boinu — The Valley of Passin — Travelling Method for Ladies — Supposed Genoese Ruins — Ertef— Eiubler— Our Halting-place pp. 1—22 CHAPTER H. Route to Kullee — Panorama of the Valley of the Araxes — Koordish Mourning — The Chief of the Village — Interior of a Koordish House — Passage of the Araxes — A Koordish Caravan — Country on the other side of the Araxes pp. 23 — 45

Chapter III

The Mountain Pass — The Valley of the Ennis — A small Caravan encamped — View of the Subhan-dagh — Squabble with Beheram Agha — His Adventures — Arrival at Koslu — There we pass the Night — Kara-kupru — The Ennis . . . pp. 46 — 68

Chapter IV

Karaghil — The Euphrates — Arrival on the Banks of the River — The Ferry-boat — The Proprietor — The Soldiers — Crossing the River— Tegut— Pirun pp. 69—89

Chapter V

Lake Nazik — View of the Lake of Van — The Village of Kazmuk — Armenian Girls — The Road to Tedvan — Caravan of Pedestrians — Tedvan — Description of the Road to Ortab — Ortab — Sorp — The Harbour — Vessels on the Lake ... pp. 90 — CONTENTS.

Chapter VI

Road to Nusheh — Koordish Shepherds — Our Halting-place— Koordish Horsemen — Nusheh — Interior of a House — Discovery of Ancient Relics — Vastan — The Isle of Akhtamar — Skiffs — Enghir — Edremit — Arrival at Van — View of Van. pp. 117—143

Chapter VII

Koordistan and Armenia — Their Ancient and Present Limits — Province of Van — Its Climate — Its Produce — Its Population — Its Administration and Revenue — Province of Hakkiari — Its Climate — Its Produce — Its Population and Administration — The Animal Kingdom in this Region — Source of the Tigris. pp. 144 to 170

Chapter VIII

The City of Van— The Fortress— The Suburbs — The Gardens- Its Population — Ressul Pasha — The Fishery — Dervish Bey — Sheran Bey — Yedi-kilissieh — The School — The Newspaper. pp. 171—202

Chapter IX

Origin of the Koords — Their Nationality — Their Language — Their Religion and Superstitions — The Rock of the Sheyts — Discovery of an Assyrian Monument pp. 203 — 232

Chapter X

Character of the Koords — Shekh Ali of the Milans — Ahmed Agha of the Mugurus — Koordish Depredations — The Bilbash Female Bandits — Manners, Customs, and Resources of the Koords — Koordish "Women — General Remarks . . . pp. 233 — 258

CHAPTER XL

The Armenians — Their Character and Condition — The Jews — Polygamy — Their Trade — The Nestorians — Their Creed — Their Condition— The Yezids — Their Worship — Their Condition — The Kisil-bashes — The Tribe .... pp. 259 CONTENTS. XIII

Chapter XII

Departure for Kotur — Khosh-guiedighi — Hansal-kaleh — Lake Ertjek — Extraordinary Art of Robbery — Ertjek — Mehemetik — Mollah — Hassan — Camp of Ahmi — His Reception pp. 287 — 315

Chapter XIII

Asturdji — Serai — Temo the Nestorian — Sherefhaneh — Koordish Camp— The Valley of the Kotur River — Arrival at Kotur — The Fortress — Its District — The Mudir Ahmed-Agha — The Albanian Bashibozooks — Adventures of Ismail- Agha pp. 316—343

Chapter XIV

The Shikiak and the Milan Tribes — Their Feuds — Omer-Agha — Koordish Tactics — Emigration to Persia — Death of Omer — Return of the Milans — They are Attacked — Negotiations at Serai — Punishment inflicted on the Chiefs . . pp. 344 — 369

Chapter XV

Fresh Disturbances — Encounter at Tchol-tchemen — Bivouac — Tournament of the Milan Chiefs — Dance — Burial of a Warrior pp. 370—381 WILD LIFE AMONG THE KOORDS.

Chapter I

Travelling Preparations — Beheram Agha — Departure from Erzerum — The Kiunbet — Deveh-boinu — The Valley of Passin — Travelling Method for Ladies — Supposed Genoese Ruins — Ertef — Eiubler — Our Halting-place. TTAVLNGr been appointed by an Imperial firman to tbe command of tbe troops stationed in Koordistan, I bastened to leave Constantinople, and after nine days' voyage I entered Erzerum, then the headquarters of the army of Anatolia. My stay in Erzerum was but of short duration. Official visits to the commander-in-chief and to the small and big1 pashas forming part of the staff, some affairs connected with the administration of my troops, all having been settled in five or six days, I set to prepare myself for the journey to Van. In a country where everything is wanting, everything must be provided for ; the smallest details must be taken into calculation, otherwise the traveller is sure of finding himself in a helpless position in the B TRAVELLING IN TURKEY. midst of a wilderness.

Having travelled through many of the European as well as of the Asiatic pro vinces of Turkey, I knew pretty well what were the measures to be taken in such an emergency, and what might be required in a long and tedious journey through valleys and mountains where the poor tra veller, face to face with the majesty of creation, finds himself the only representative of the human species. However, the present journey to Van was something exceptional, even in the Turkish sense of travelling, so that I thought it prudent not to neglect anything which might be requisite to face the exigencies, and to meet the difficulties, of the journey. The reports that reached me from all quarters con cerning the state of the country through which my route lay, were far from being reassuring. The good-natured shopkeepers in the bazaar of Erzerum were making ample comments on the length and dreariness of the journey, while the recklessness and fierce disposition of the Koordish tribes were cautiously hinted at.

They all, however, agreed in praising Van and its neighbourhood to the skies, expatiating with emphasis on the loveliness of its climate, and comparing it to the pro mised land for the abundance of its productions and the beauty of its gardens. These and other accounts, while exciting my curiosity, served as a stimulus to my de parture, by getting me on horseback a moment sooner. There are two methods to be followed in under- PREPARATIONS. 3 taking a journey through Turkey ; one is by buying the number of horses which may be required for your own use, so that, independent of caravans and drivers, you may be at liberty to go as you like, and stop wherever it may suit your convenience to do so. This is by far the easiest way of travelling, though not always the cheapest. As a rule, this plan may be adopted when the general value of the horses in the place whence one starts is inferior to the price of horses in the country whither one is going.

In such a case, provided one knows how to make his bargain, it is easy to make the journey at less expense, ancl even to profit by the transaction, in pocketing the difference. People well acquainted with the country often have recourse to this expedient. The mode which remains is that of entering into an arrangement with the Katerdjis, a kind of drivers, who take upon themselves to furnish you with as many horses as you may require, and to carry you and your luggage to the place of destination. In these contracts the prices vary from seventeen to twenty-five shillings, that is, from ninety to one hun dred and fifty piastres for each horse going from Erzerum to Van. If the journey is to be performed by short stages, during which the drivers are allowed to make their horses graze along the road, then seventeen shillings is the ordinary charge.

If, however, the traveller wishes to get through his b BARGAIN WITH THE KATERDJIS. journey quickly, going at the rate of twenty or twenty-five miles a day, he must pay twenty-five shil lings as an indemnification for the extra expense which the drivers incur by feeding their horses with barley and straw. In the circumstances in which I was placed, I thought the best plan would be that of hiring the number of horses required at the rate of twenty five shillings, without venturing into any speculation. Besides, according to all probabilities, a jobbing ot that sort would almost surely have ended to my dis advantage, as horses are considered to be much cheaper and of a better sort at Van than they generally are in Erzerum. To find the* Katerdjis and to make with them the bargain was an affair soon brought to a conclusion.

I took care, however, to select the horses and pack saddles which seemed to be in the best condition ; seven horses, three for myself and my servants and four as pack-horses for my furniture, luggage, and other impedimenta, were required. Half of the money agreed to was paid on account, the remainder to be paid on our arrival at Van. This is a necessary pre caution, which it is always better to take in order to insure the good behaviour and fidelity of these fellows, while a good stout horsewhip ought to be brought to bear on the scale for the purpose of enforcing order and discipline amongst the recalcitrant elements which often form part of the caravan. That instrument of PURCHASE OF PROVISIONS. 5 coercion constituted, as a matter of course, a part of my accoutrement. These matters once arranged and the departure having been fixed for the next morning, I went to wards the market-place, where I intended to make several purchases to complete my stock of provisions and outfit.

After having been in one or two shops my stock of provisions soon attained bulky proportions, as I laid in a pretty good supply of sugar, coffee, chocolate, the well known French sardines in tin boxes, and dry and preserved meat. Candles, soap, and a plentiful supply of lucifer boxes were likewise added to the commissariat stock. I then directed my steps towards that part of the bazaar where are to be found the articles of general outfit, and I bought there some nails and shoes for the horses, as it is a matter of prudence to be always provided with such materials. I selected likewise a nice suit of plate, consisting of a lot of thick wooden spoons and a big leather bag, which while serving as a recipient for all kinds of articles connected with the table, is employed at the same time as a first-rate table cloth, being stretched on the ground at dinner time.

All these once provided, I was about to return to my quarters, when it came into my mind to go and smoke a pipe at the chambers of a certain Hamza Agha, a wealthy merchant from Rizeh, who was esta blished in one of the khans close to the bazaar. Enter- BEHERAM AGHA. ing the large wide-open gates of the bazaar I saw my friend Hamza quietly seated before the door of his chamber. On my approach the good tradesman rose politely, and took me into his counting-house, where we crossed our legs opposite to each other on the carpet, and opened the conversation by the usual selams. The first tidings I brought to the knowledge of the tradesman was that of my departure on the following morning. This, as natural, led to several remarks and observations on the part of my interlo cutor, who, after having wished me a happy and prosperous journey, told me that he had just happened to see one of his countrymen, one Beheram Agha, who was likewise on the point of leaving for Van.

He added that if I wished he might easily bring me into connexion with him, as it would be desirable for both parties to undertake the journey together. I acceded eagerly to the proposal, and Hamza, rising from his place, hastened in search of his friend, whom he thought he might easily find at that very moment in the bazaar. Accordingly, after a not very long interval Hamza was back, followed by a somewhat dark gentlemanly-looking person, whose slightly grey beard indicated him to be a man over forty. This man was Beheram Agha, who on taking his seat soon explained how, having been named director of the government salt monopoly at Van, he was on the point of goino* to that city in order to be installed into, his new TRAVELLING WITH LADIES. 7 functions. I expressed to the Agha the pleasure that I felt in finding that we were bound for the same destination, and that I should consider it a great advantage if we could make our arrangements in such a way as to start off on our journey together.

Beheram showed himself eager to accept my offer, and said that he was quite ready to start on the following morning ; but that as he had his harem with him, he did not know whether I should object to travel in their society. This piece of information at first, I must confess, startled me, and threw a kind of gloom over my prospects. Whatever may be my predilection for, and devotion to, the fair sex, I have always been of opinion that, invaluable in the domestic recess, women are not quite the sort of companions which one would like to have while en route. Besides this, it seemed to me that with a Turkish harem the matter was worse still, because with European ladies one may easily jump over ditches and fences, especially if they have been trained in Rotten-row, but with a lot of Turkish women matters are more serious.

And what if the jealous husband, under the smallest pretence, were to experience a fit of violent jealousy, out of which any amount of dramas and tragedies might arise ? Notwithstanding all these ideas that naturally enough occurred to me, I made up my mind, and told Beheram that any amount of women that he might carry with him would not the least THE GUMUSH-KIUNBET. affect me, on the contrary I should be most happy to offer them my assistance and protection. This was, I thought, making the best of a bad bargain ; but experience soon showed me that I was mistaken in my apprehensions, as the poor ladies behaved admirably during the whole of the journey, and for any kindness I may have shown them they amply repaid me by their attentions and cordiality. As for Beheram's jealousy, I succeeded at last in overcoming it.

The hour of our departure was fixed for five o'clock in the morning, as we wished to profit by the freshness of the early hours so as to reach our first resting-place in good time. The Gumush-Kiunbet, a monument which stands on the road a few hundred yards out of the town, was the spot which was selected as the point of rendezvous for the party. These general arrangements once settled, we took leave of the good Hamza, and directed ourselves to our respective lodgings, in order to get ready for the morning. No sooner had the dawn appeared than trunks and men were all on horseback, while the animals began to carry us out of the sulky-looking and miserable streets of the capital of Asiatic Turkey. We emerged at once into the burial-ground, at the other extremity of which we could see the Gumush-Kiunbet, of which the characteristic and picturesque dome, though a ruin itself, seems to look with satisfaction on the surrounding tombs of prostrate and fallen humanity.

THE K1UNBET. Arrived at the Kiunbet, as we saw no trace of Beheram and his hour is, I thought it advisable to wait there awhile, profiting in the meantime by the delay in order to satisfy my archæological taste by examining the old monument. This building, the Turkish name of which signifies the silver cupola, seems from its structure to belong to the epoch in which Erzerum was the capital of the Kara-koiunlu and Ak-koiunlu dynasties of the Turkmens — viz., the 12th century. This isolated monument, of a pentagonal form, has an elevation of thirty-five feet, and is constructed of solid and well cut stone, its corners being decorated with slender columns of the Arabic style. A door, bearing no inscription, leads into the interior, while two good-sized windows serve to throw light inside the building.

A pyramidical dome, surmounted by something resembling a pine-apple, crowns the edifice. During the occupation of Erzerum (1829) by the Russian army, under Paskiewitch, this building served as a corps de garde, in order to over look the roads of the surrounding country ; now the more peaceable Turks use it as a kind of coffee-house. While I was thus contemplating the old Kiunbet, and looking at the surrounding hills, my servants perceived several horsemen coming towards us, and announced them to me as likely to be Beheram's party. Not being able, however, to distinguish any feminine forms amongst the company, I began to DREARY SCENERY. doubt its identity with that of our fellow-travellers ; and it was not till Beheram himself, hastening the pace of his steed, rode close to the spot where we were, that I could recognise the approaching party.

On arriving close to us Beheram made the cus tomary salute, and asked whether we had met with his harem, as it was some time since they had started on their way. On receiving a negative answer from me, he said that we should not be long in over taking the ladies, as it was not more than an hour since they had left. Beheram, myself, and our followers then put spurs to our horses, and, following the high road, began to wind about the ridges which form the eastern boundary of the plateau of Erzerum. Aridity and a dreary appearance are the characteristics of the surrounding scenery. No trees, nor even shrubs, were to be detected in the midst of the heaps of stone and in the calcareous soil through which our road lay. That fresh and brisk air which invariably smiles on the faces of travellers while getting through the first hours of their journey, made up to a great extent for the tediousness of the road; while pipes and cigarettes served to keep up the amenity of our conversation.

Some remarks upon the quadrupeds that were carrying us on their backs, some observations about our costumes and accoutrements, one or two bits of information con cerning Erzerum, seasoned by sarcasms and criti- DEVEH-BOINU. cisms on its inhabitants, were the subjects which entertained me and the good-natured Beheram while our horses were keeping step, side by side. We thus soon reached the top of the ridge, from which, while losing sight of the plain of Erzerum, we beheld the valley of Passin from one extremity to the other. This high ridge, which is of a curvilinear form, is called by the Turks Deveh-boinu, or the Camel's Neck, on account of its configuration. Strategically, it is a very important point, because if the Turkish forces were to lose ground at Kars, this is the only place where they could effectually make a stand against the invader.

It is on this position that the contending armies must decide who is to be the master of Erzerum. The loss of Deveh-boinu would have for consequence the evacuation of that city. During the late war the Turkish army occupied this position, and strengthened it by the construction of extensive field-works. From a tactical point of view, the position is essentially defensive ; unapproachable on the left flank, it can only with difficulty be attacked from the positions dominating its right flank. As the road coming from Erzerum, the line of retreat of the Turks, passes by the right flank of the position, the strategic reason also leads to the conclusion that this point would be the one which the Russians would select in executing their attack. Deveh-Boinu is an in- DELICATE BEHAVIOUR. hospitable and dreary spot where no human being has ever attempted to live.

In winter time the violence of the wind and the intensity of cold are such that Erze rum with its 22 degrees Centigrade (equal to 9° Fahr. below zero) of frost is considered a place of refuge. Travellers and caravans dread the very name of Deveh- Boinu. This point is at a distance of seven miles from Erzerum. While intent on my observations I was recon noitring' the environs, Beheram and the others saw at a distance the caravan composed of his female house hold. They attracted my attention to that point, and Beheram told me that he would despatch to them one of his servants to tell them to stop and wait for us near the stream which runs at the foot of the descent, where we might take a little rest. We there fore continued to descend the easy slope which is followed by the road, and after having gone through the distance of three miles we came to the small rivulet which bisects the way, so that our caravan found itself mustered all on one halting spot.

On approaching, and while in the act of alighting from the horse, I cautiously turned my face in the direction which was diametrically opposed to the spot where the harem was standing. I soon perceived, however, that such delicate behaviour was utterly un called for, as the members of the harem were invisible, being concealed behind the screen of their taberna- HOW LADIES TRAVEL IN TURKEY. 13 culum. In order to make my readers understand what the word tabernaculum here means it is necessary to give a description of the contrivances which are employed by the Turks in order to transport their wives and families from one extremity of the empire to the other. One way of travelling for ladies is that of seating themselves comfortably inside a takhtaravan, which is a kind of cltaise-a-porleurs or sedan, carried by two mules, one in front and the other behind.

This method of undertaking a journey is very expensive, so that it only falls to the lot of the harems of rich pashas to indulge in such a luxury. The other plan is that of riding inside a machine called the maghfeh, which consists of two rather large and flat boxes tied on to the sides of a pack-saddle. Small mattresses and cushions being arranged in the inside, the two compartments form but one snuggish berth, where two women can make themselves comfortable pro vided they sit all the while with their legs crossed. The whole of this concern is covered up with white calico, having thus the appearance of a small tent with an arched roof perched on the back of a horse. The travelling ladies have no other way of entering and quitting their berth but by climbing up and down the neck of the quadruped to whose care their lives are entrusted.

The horse carrying the maghfeh is, as a measure of precaution, led by a special guide known TURKISH SERVANTS. under the name of Hekiam. The skill displayed by these fellows is not of an ordinary character, as not withstanding the difficulty of carrying women and children with such primitive and clumsy apparatus along the edges of precipices and across streams and rivers, they seldom happen to meet with disasters. After we had taken our seats at a certain distance from the spot where the harem had stopped, the ladies dropped themselves down from their berths, selected a place out of sight of profane regards, and quietly seated themselves on the border of a ditch. An hour was spent by us on this spot, our chief occupation being that of smoking a cigarette or two, accompanied by a cup of coffee, which Turkish servants know how to boil and prepare even in the midst of a desert.