The Oxonian in Norway: or, Notes of Excursions in that country in 1854-1855

Front matter

■ THE OXONIAN IX NORWAY; OR, NOTES OF EXCURSIONS IN THAT COUNTRY. BY THE REV. FREDERICK METCALFE, M.A. FELLOW OF LINCOLN COLLEGE, OXFOKD. 'Tho' sluggards deem it but an idle chnse, And marvel men should quit their p asy chair The toilsome way ant! longlong league to I race, Oh ! there i6 BWeetnera in the mountain air, And life, that bloated ease c-an never hope to share. Irnmii BMn, lUnaii. LONDON : HURST AND BLACKETT, PUBLISHERS, SUCCESSORS TO HENRY COLBURN, 13 GREAT MARYBOROUGH STREET. 1857. LONDON: PRINTED BY I1EVNF.I.L AND T7th.nl, LITTLE FULTENET 6TBEKT.

Preface

TO FIRST EDITION. The writer os the following pages, during his excursions in Norway, jotted down at the time notes of what he saw and heard and thought. This was done by him more for his own amusement, and to gratify the curiosity of friends at home, who were anxious to know something about the incidents of his travels, than with any definite purpose on his part of venturing into print. Intended for private use, these pages would, probably, never have seen the light, had they not chanced to fall into the hands of a literary friend, who advised their publication, not so much, perhaps, for any intrinsic merit they pos sess, as on account of the great interest that Enghsh readers have taken, of late, in descriptions of Norway. It will at once be understood, that the author does not profess to give any digested or systematic account of the country and its people, their institutions and manners.

Profound disquisitions and logical trains of argument were quite beside his purpose. As he journeyed along, fishing-rod in hand, or gun on shoulder, now chatting with the people, now plucking flowers in the woods, now musing over the wonderful and wild of the scenery

PREFACE.

. — the thoughts and incidents of the moment were set down in the order that they occurred : the starch of con ventionalism being entirely forgotten. Plenty of books have already appeared about Norway. Its agricultural, political, and social aspects have been ably discussed by that matter-of-fact writer, Laing. Its physical geography has found an agreeable exponent in the accomplished Professor Forbes. Some works have been devoted to its scenery, others almost exclusively to its salmon-fishing. Still the subject is very far from being exhausted. And it will be found that, while the author has abstained as much as possible from referring to matters mentioned by other writers, several incidents, illustrative of the manners and customs of the country, have occurred to him, which no other traveller has re corded.

Indeed, many of the scenes here described lay in remote parts of the country, which had never been visited by Englishmen, and where the sight of one was quite a phenomenon. Under these circumstances, he trusts that he may be excused for appearing before the public ; and he ventures to hope that these notes, which have in some parts been revised and extended for publication, may not be altogether devoid of interest. The country described is attractive to an Englishman, principally, from the unfettered liberty he there enjoys of roaming at will over its vast expanse, whatever be his pursuit. While the rest of the Continent is being fenced and enclosed; while in England

PREFACE.

. V in particular, it is becoming next to impossible to get off the dusty high road on to the tufted common as of yore — alas ! for Cowley, and Shotover, and the fast disappearing commons round Oxford, — three fourths of Scandinavia are as wild and open as ever: — Connemara, in short, on a much vaster scale. But Nor way is not only interesting for its unique scenery, but also for its blood-relationship with Great Britain — a point which has been well brought out by the Danish writer, Worsaae. It is interesting, too, on account of its recent narrow escape from falling into Russian hands — an event which, had it been consummated, would have been most preju dicial to British interests. Lastly, it is a country deserving of much attention, from the rapid strides that it has made, since it obtained a con stitution, in commerce and civilization; in spite of its scanty population, barren soil, and lengthened winters : an example fraught with instruction to its neighbours, as showing, in a striking manner, the advantages that result from free institutions. Oxford, July, 1856.

PREFACE.

TO SECOND EDITION. Having received the welcome intelligence from our Publishers, that a new Edition of ' The Oxonian in Nor way ' is called for, we have deemed it right, in preparing it, to make some additions and improvements, in deference to the suggestions of the public press ; and we here take the opportunity of recording our great gratitude to those, to us unknown, gentlemen, for the kindly spirit in which they reviewed our labours. The additions comprise a simple map of the country, indicating the chief places visited ; some new illustrations ; fresh matter, chiefly legends, and allusions to the Sagas; and also a concluding chapter on the expense of travelling in Norway. The book is now in one volume instead of two, and the price is cut down one half. To the almost universal commendation bestowed by the Reviewers upon our humble efforts there were one, or, we believe, two exceptions.

We were censured for being too colloquial in style — for not travelling in our white tie through Lapland — for not giving solid information — for improper use of Scripture. We feel it due to ourselves to say a vm

PREFACE.

. few words on this matter. Colloquial style forsooth; of course we are colloquial, and purposely so. We greatly admire the wit and wisdom of those ' Times ' leading articles, and we read in one of them the other day that all good styles are based on conversation, and we entirely believe it. Some writers think the essence of a good style is to write as little in the same manner as they talk as possible ; and are very tough, hard reading in consequence. A great mistake. Bolts struck off at a heat will take faster hold than if the iron is allowed to cool first, be it never so much hammered and filed afterwards. In describing the incidents of a rapid journey, with the thoughts that rose to the writer's mind, was he to be rolling his utterances into rounded periods, or squaring them by the rules of Aristotle; to drawl out sentences as long as Kant's ; with all the auxiliary verbs, and the rivetting articles, and particles, and soldering conjunc tions, till each member looked as stiff and formal as so many hogs in armour?

Truly those over-precise syntax-mongers remind one of Sir Thomas Overbury's Pedant, who dared not even think, for fear that in thought he should not put the nominative case before the verb. And then for the absence of the white tie — to use the critic's figure of speech. — Was the author to imitate the hypocritical and cunning Oriental, and cry, " In the name of the Prophet, figs" ? One would have thought

PREFACE.

. IX that the lances Kingsley has shivered against such im postors would have stopped their " hideous hum !" showing, as he does, that a parson is also a man, and human in his sympathies ; comes eating and drinking, but is not therefore possessed of an evil spirit. Is the parson by the side of the salmon-pool to be outpouring formal phraseology ; blundering along in the serious rut ; or strutting about with a sermonizing air ? Is he, instead of thankfully enjoying the fresh gifts of nature, and revel ling in the ecstasy of genial animal spirits, to be adopt ing the sour face and snuffling twang of the ascetic? " Medio de fonte leporum Surgat amari aliquid " seems to be the motto of these persons. Again, it was said that " for real solid information people must go to Laing. The author of ' The Oxonian ' was unable to give it."

And that, too, when he had himself stated in his preface that he did not profess to give a detailed sta tistical account of the country. It was beside his purpose, and not to his taste. He was no Macculloch. For such information he referred people to the matter-of-fact writer Laing. This is Hke the case of the man who sold a summer coat, and then got abused by the buyer because it was not a Dreadnought. And then for the irreverent jesting in Scripture phrase. That is not the true verdict upon the evidence. Besides, in describ ing the simple manners of a patriarchal country like Norway, no language is more likely to occur to a writer than the language of that Book which, above all others, X

PREFACE.

. contains the best description of patriarchal manners. We do protest against the dogma that this pure well of English undefiled is to be ignored in writing Enghsh. This is to cut away the ground from under us. Look at Macaulay : look at some of our finest old English writers. Look at our noblest public speakers. As Luther's translation of the Bible has served the best German writers, as the repository of idiomatic German : so the translation of our Bible will be the standard, to which we hope that for many generations we shall be going back ; in spite of the efforts made by some to seal up the book to the people, or of others to alter and modernise it. In depicting peculiarities of race, or aspects of nature, words will come unconsciously and unbidden to us from thence, to embody the thought, and any other words will be unidiomatic and slipshod in comparison.

And then for our critic's talk about wild scenes of travel. The man had clearly mistaken his profession ; he had no heart for anything of the sort. As well ask of a house-painter to admire the subtleties of Turner's colouring. Set such a man down to Rubricarius Scapularis, " De vestimentis," wherein it is clearly proved that a parson's dress is petticoats and a tabard ; or to some musty crusty polemical tractate by Bramarbas Acetatus ; and he will, as Latimer would say, humble and mumble over it to admiration. But the fresh air of the pine-woods, what has he to do with that ? The pines out of the sorest will answer him, in the voice of the

PREFACE.

. XI Rosemary : " Apage Sus non tibi spiro !" If our rela tive positions were changed, we on the critical bench, he at the bar, our sentence on him would be " Sus. per coll." On the glorious mountain tops, the armoury of God's thunder, he has no place. If he do get there, it is not that he has a sympathy with the spirit of such spots : but only, like the spectre of the Brocken, that he may plague those who have ! Candolle tells us of a sort of bastard wheat, the Ae gilops triticosum, which, if cultivated for twelve years successively, will become true wheat. But as for such critics, we believe that if they cultivate their critical powers for twice that number of years, they will never be true critics, or able to review a book on natural scenery and rural diversions. Oxford, June, 1857. CONTENTS

Chapter I

Oxford Gaieties and Oxford Dulness— Migratory Tendencies — An Important Query — What you will not find in Norway — Parisian Cockneyism and Piscatorial Heresies — The Delights of Norway — The Waterfalls — Incidents of the Voyage — The Jealousy of *■' Old Norwegians " — Illfeeling hetween the Danes and the Norsemen — Russian Vessels under the Battery of Oddero — Christiansand— The hest Drink in Norway — A Rustic Pastor — A Bishop smokes a Havannah — Beneficial Effects of Free Trade on the Norwegian Mercantile Marine. . . 1 — 8

Chapter II

Christiania — The Royal Palace — The Museum of Natural History — Mr Bennett — Off for Bergen — A Steep Road — Posting Arrangements in Norway — Midnight Twilight — The Sleeping Beauty — Ranzfjord 9 — 14 CHAPTER IH. The Province of Hadeland — Post Stations and their Interiors — Wooden Churches — A Legend of Piety and Sisterly Affection — Another Version — The Night-jar — The Swimming Phenomenon — Our Post-hoy — Beauty in Distress— The Aasen Mountain — A Ministering Angel — Her Father's Sunday Jacket — Story of a Bear — Introduction of the Art of Fly-Fishing — An Historical Disquisition — A Fly-Fishing Anecdote — The Lady of the Wood — Features of Norwegian Roads. . 15 — 22

Chapter IV

The District of Valders— Lingering Legends of the Black Death — Story of the Wild Girl — Story of the Peasant — Bodily Appearance assumed by the Plague — Arrival at Oyloe — A satisfactory Breakfast— Mountain Peasantry returning from Church — Costumes of Norwegian Childhood — Tame Reindeer — Bergenstift — Characteristics of Norwegian Horses — Affection ofthe Norsemen for their Horses — Hatredand Fear of the Czar in Norway . . . . 23— CONTENTS.

Chapter V

Norway singularly bare of Ancient Historical Remains — Antique Wooden Churches— Churches used as Museums in Norway — Laing's Assertion respecting the paucity of Small Birds in Norway disproved— Dinner at Leirdalsoren— The German Traveller's Disappointment — The Glacier of Justedal — A Boat-Voyage to Gudvangen . . 33—38

Chapter VI

The Grandest Scenery in Norway — The Keelfoss behind Gudvangen — Horses for Kongsberg Fair— A Female Postboy — A Phenomenon explained—The Church at Vossevangen— The last Popish Bishop of Bergen — Bolstadoren — Hot Weather— Frequency of Conflagrations — An ill-omened Name— English Quakers— Origin of Quakerism in Norway — The Laws of the Conscription — A Curious Burial Custom— A Quaker objects to it — The Majestic Hornelen — A Vision of Sir Walter Scott — Stadlaud— Patience of the Norwegian Character. . 39—50

Chapter VII

Method of ascertaining whether the Herrings are off the Coast—The Herring Fishery at Stavanger — Sondmor and Nordmor — Influence of the Fisheries on the Persons engaged on them — Aalesund — A Nice Perfume — A Norsk Beauty— The Omeu — A Love Song . . . 51—57

Chapter VIII

Fanne Fjord — Fishing Quarters at Feva — Salmon Fishing during an Eclipse — Lange Fjord — A Long Chase — Pastor B. — Rough Music at a Pic-nic — Eagle and Salmon — The Sea-Serpent — A Phenomenon explained 58—64 CHAPTEE IX. Old Shorter with his Cap on — A Bridal Party — Interchange of Compliments — English Travellers spoil the Natives — Pursuit of the Reindeer — A Disappointment — A Desolate Spot — The Lady ofthe Lake — Story of a Stolen Bride — A Weird District — A Midnight Encampment — Ornithological Experiences — Stordal — A Glimpse of Reindeer — Disadvantage of wearing a Glazed Hat — A Mysterious Midnight Disturbance — A Reindeer Shooter's Costume — A Singular Spot — A Hunter's Refuge — An unexpected Meeting — Peculiar Formation of the Reindeer's Hoof — Timid Women — The Reindeer at Home and in the Regent's Park — Norway not a Show Place — A Dangerous Ferry — Arrival at Sundalsoren — Eridsfjord . ... .... 65—82 CONTENTS. XV

Chapter X

The Harbour at Christiansund — Desolate Character of the surrounding Country — The Valley of Sundal — Its Mortality — Sickness in the Change-House at Jura — Medical Destitution of the Mountaineers — Cure for an Adder's Bite — An Accident which happened to the Author at Ostersund — Robbery of a Golden Eagle's Nest — Desperate Leap taken by a Wolf — Embarrassing Politeness— Avalanches and their Effects . . . ". . . 83—90

Chapter XI

Hoas a good Fishing Station— Amazement of the Natives at first witnessing Fly -Fishing — The English Nobleman — Ole, a picturesque Norwegian — Family Wardrobes Characteristics of Scandinavian Pigs — Pursuit of a Bear — A Fieldfare's Defence of its Nest — Successful Trout-Fishing — Pastor G.'s Chalet — A Rough but Good Supper — Infamous way in which the Norwegian Peasants destroy the Black-cock . . 91 — 97

Chapter XII

Pastor G.'s Hospitality — His Literary Tastes— A Clever Smith — A Norwegian Clergyman's Work — A famous Trout Lake— Fight between Two Wolves and a Newfoundland Dog — Methods practised in Norway for Catching and Destroying Wolves — Stories about Bears — The Morals of the People improved by the removal of Incentives to Drink — Mr Laing 's Accounts considered — Difficulty of obtaining Brandy — An exhilarated Clergyman — His Anathema on Puseyites— The Rite of Confirmation in Norway — Tiedemann's Picture of a Catechising in the Church of Hitterdal — A Confirmation in Sundalsbren Church — Wood Ptarmigan Shooting — Staugvig Fjord — An unsuccessful Fishing Excursion — Characteristics of Norwegian Salmon — Salmon in the Rivers flowing into the Gulf of Bothnia. . . . 98—109

Chapter XIII

On board the Ship ' Aeger ' — A Norwegian Belle — Teeth of the Sundalen Damsels — A paltry Enactment — Aspect of Trondjem — The Museum of Natural History The Cathedral — The Miracle-working Well of St Olaf — A melancholy Portrait of a facetious Bishop — Origin of the Cathedral of Trondjem — Salmon-fishing at the Falls of the Nid — Cheap Lodgings — Sunday Entertainments — A narrow Escape from the " Steenbit " — Low State of the Science of Natural History in Norway. ...... 110—117

Chapter XIV

The Commerce of Trondjem — Reputed Exclusiveness of its Merchants — Trondjem aud Bergen compared — Deficient Wharfage at Trondjem — Decline of its Trade with Sweden by way of Levanger — System of Smuggling formerly pursued by its Merchants — The Trondjem iron-foundry — Instance of Russian Venality. . . . 118 — CONTENTS.

Chapter XV

Departure from Trondjem— Unfortunate flowers— The Vessel's freight — The Pastor of the Namsen district— The Parish Priest at Carlso— Isolated State of the Norwegian Clergy— Characteristics of the Peasantry — Instances of Norwegian Superstition — Coast Scenery — The natural Tunnel through the Rock of Torghatten— The Island of Tjotc— The Range of the Seven Sisters — A Huntsman's first experience as Piscator —The Four-peaked Threnen— The Bird Island and Lord Brougham's Portrait— An Oxonian's Adventure with a Bear— English Sportsmen in Norway — Commercial Travellers — A Party of Swedish Students— Fraternization of the Students of Upsala, Copenhagen, Christiania — A novel kind of Salmon-trap— The Artificial Breeding of Salmon 123 — 136

CHAPTER XV.

Bodo — The Consequences of Sacrilege — Snipe-Shooting — Eider Down — A dangerous Current at the junction ofthe Salten and Skjerstad Fjords — Old Woman's Island — Mysterious Disappearance of a Bear — Sweetness wasted on the Desert Air — A Momentous Query — The Famous Maelstrom — The Northern Cod Fishery — Laws respecting the preparation of the Stock Fish — Perils to which the Fishermen are exposed — A Catastrophe— Cod-liver Oil— Tolls and Tithes paid by the Fisheries — Gullibility of the Cod-fish. ..... 137—147

Chapter XVI

The Luffodens — Waagekalle — JotuI — A distant view— Better days Domestic affairs of Eider Ducks — An Osprey in trouble — Swartsund Homes in the Wilderness — Svolvœr — Polar Ice — The Climate of Norway — Russian Filibusters ... .... 148 157

Chapter XVII

A Boat Voyge from Kloven — The Andswand — A Wedding Guest An Untimely Marriage — Midnight Visit to a Cabin — Twofold Efficacy of Medicine— Arrival at Fosmoen — Characteristics of tbe Neighbouring Country — The Bardu and the Malanger— Magnificent Mountain Scenery— Autumn Sunsets — Ascent of the Iis-Tind— Fosmoen A Marriage Party— The Culminating Point— A Gigantic Feast — The Bride and the Bridesmaids — A New Country — The Hostess in Gala Dress Bridal Gifts — The Ascetic Priest — " Ugudelig " — The Nectar of the Scandinavian Valhalla — A Finmark Soyer — His Heroic Adventure with a Bear— A Group of old Stories. . ... 158 171

Chapter XVIII

Grand Fishing Quarters — A fierce Salmon Pool — Dangers and Difficulties — "Staking" — An unexpected Plunge — An unkempt Carl — The first Salmon — Mistaken Zeal — An Exciting Moment — A Prize. 172 CONTENTS. XVII

Chapter XIX

Angling Reminiscences — A Trout who had dined — A great Lemming year — A Shower of them from Heaven — Norwegian Delicacies — Melanger Elv as a Salmon River — Bardu Pool— Burning the Water — The Leister— A White Day— Characteristics of the Malanger and the Bardu — Pine Logs — Ducklings on a Voyage —Accidents at the Falls — Face to Face with Death— Superstitious Customs with respect to Drowned Persons — A Gripe with a meaning in it — A new Settlement — Household Arrangements — A Porridge Feast— The Scandinavian Summer — Foshaugen— Pine-Log Rafts — Unexplored Mineral Treasures. 179-193

Chapter XX

Norwegian Church-going — Fiu Women — The Descendants of the Vikings — Fjeld Fins and Sea Fins — Conversion of the Laps to Christianity — Lestadius — Characteristics of the Sect established by him and his Daughter — Vengeance on a dark Night in November — The ripe Fruits of Religious Fanaticism — Ghosts — Improving Condition of the Fins — The Architecture of Norwegian Churches — Clerical Politeness — Unimpressive Psalm- Singing — A Specimen of Norwegian Pulpit Eloquence — Expulsion of a Lap Mamma and her Baby — The Baptism of Children — Sunday Talk— Ole Carlem — An Antidote to Dissent — Opbyggelse. 194—207

Chapter XXI

A Lap Home — Capercailzie — My Garden destroyed — Lars' Account of the Opbyggelse — Norwegian Pledge-taking — Shameless Poachers — The Author goes in Search of an Osprey's Nest — A Giddy Climb — An Unexpected Greeting — Snow-Shoes — Maternal Fondness of a Female Red-breasted Merganser — Norwegian Wastefulness of Timber — Location of a Recent Squatter 208-218

Chapter XXII

Norgaard — Conflagrations in the Royal Forests — Enormous Char — How to cross Bogs — A Rough Road — Gigantic Pine Trees — Sorrow in a Log hut — Homely Entertainment — Interview with an Unneighbourly Quain — Peter's Offer and the Quain's Chagrin — Arrival at Elvkrogen — Unaccommodating Fins — Ole Johansen — An Expedition to Church — Blasted Pines — Favourite Method of taking Bears— Trading Booths— Reindeer as beasts of Burden —Temperance and Morality — The absence of the Medical Faculty amongst the Norwegians — The Goldfinch in the Ruined village— The Red-pole. .... 219—232

Chapter XXIII

Omasijavre — Renown of ' The Pilgrim's Progress ' — Sentiment and Practice — Rehgious Tendencies in Norway— The Scandinavian Character Serious and Reflective— Rehgious Revivalists— Hans Nielsen CONTENTS. XVIII Hauge — Decay of National Customs — Picture, by Tiedemann, of an Episode in the Life of the Haugianer — A Lap Encampment — A Refrac tory Deer- Tent Skeletons— A Lap Cradle— Change of Air. 233—242

Chapter XXIV

The Sagwand — Good Fishing— A Bit of Norwegian Life — A Fisherman's Cot — A Pilot — Desolate Woodland — Uses of Birch Bark — An Unsatisfactory Companion — The Shame of being Unconfirmed — The Herb Angelica — The Valley of the Mons at Ulsberg — Tromso — Momentous Questions — The English Traitor — Ludwigsen's Hotel — The Ice-Bear — Walrus Hunting — Spitzbergen — Laws respecting Dogs — Ideas prevalent in the Cambridge Fens respecting Dog-bites. . 243 — 254

Chapter XXV

The " Gyller" — Tame Whales — The Author's Fellow-passengers — An antiquated Beau — Hamburg Senator — An Adventure iu a Storm— A Danish Magnifico — The Man who had shot a Bear— -Impluvium — La Chasse — A Classical Joke — A Pointer sold in Regent Street — A Candid Opinion — Republican reverence for Titles — The Danish Count's History — A Romantic Story. .... 255 — 266

Chapter XXVI

Surnames a sign of Civilization — Haus-i-the-wood — A Great Se:*-Eagla — A Fur-merchant's Warehouse — A Triumph and its Consequences — Rough Weather— A Darkness tbat might be felt - A Run Ashore — The Voice of the Draugie — The Thana Fjord — Photographic Magic — Norwegian Honesty — The Lost Handkerchief — A Tragic Story — Murder will out — Curiosities for Sale .... 267 — 277

Chapter XXVII

Arrival at Vardohus — Hummer and Kammerherr — Raptures and their origin — The Fair Widow — The " Festning " — The Cow that belonged to Government — The Bay of Vadso — Lapland Dogs not Lap-dogs — Mine Host — An Attempt to turn an Honest Penny — A great Baptizing Day — A young Lap Couple — Burly Samoyede Sailors — A Gin-Palace in Vadso — Civility to the Russians — An Uncomfortable Fellow-lodger — A Sample of Russian Perfidy — Disposition of the Population towards Russia — Fin Notions respecting the Czar — A Deep Game. 278 — 291 CHAPTER XXVQI. An Intelligent Official — Hire of a Boat — The Mysterious Treasure — The Miser Instinct among the Laps— Craving for Religious Exercises — The Country around the Great Lake Enara— Adventure with a Swimming CONTENTS. XIX Bear— Onwards to the Eastward — A Diplomatic Bungle — A Toast — A Conversation with the Coxswain — Dreams of what might have been — The Mouth of the Paswig— The Abode of St Tryphon— Unskilful Boatmen — Hansen — A Muscovite Piece of Trickery. . 292—301 CHAPTER XXIS.

The Fins as Fishermen — A Lap Cemetery — The Sacred Trees— A Shocking Disappointment -A specimen of Philosophy— The Paswig Fly — "All is lost now" — A Quain Cook — A Melancholy Spectacle — Musquito Curtains — A Pendulous Wasp's Nest — A Nostrum for Boils — The Scream of the Kat-ugle— Eagle Shooting— The Laughing Goose. 302 — 311

CHAPTER XXX.

The Neiden — Hansen's Character — The Bogfjord — Scandinavian Sleeping Accommodation — Salmon-fishing at the Falls — Russian-Lapland Fishermen — A Careless Cast — A Fisherman's Dangers — An Artificer in Iron — Return to Vadso— Old Friends again — Hospitality at Mortensnœs — Ancient Bauta Stones — Boat Voyage to Nyborg — Richardson's Skua Gulls — A Naturalist's Homily — The Rival Drinking- Cups — An exorbitant Bill — Society at Marienlund— A sad Story — A Cold Bath— The Russian Consul General — Servility and Independence — An Exquisite's Remonstrance —The " Greve." . . 312 — 326

CHAPTER XXXI.

Stoppe-sted Kloven — A Peculiar Taste — The Voged of Tromso — Lap Criminals — A Compatriot — The Alten Mining Establishment — Pursuit of Knowledge under Difficulties — The Swedish Priest Lestadius — Superstition amongst Miners — A good Lemming Year — The fortunate little red-haired Tailor — Norwegian Mining Laws — Archdeacon Mbller's " House-boat' — The Education of the Clergy — Introduction of the Reformed Faith into Norway — A Martyr's Monument — The Fighting-men of Norway — Ole Madsen Engelstrup. . . 327 — 337

CHAPTER XXXII.

Arrival at Rypo - Betrothal in Norway — A Marriage in High Life — The Honeymoon — General Aspect of Rypo— A Norwegian Farm— Mistaken Kindness — A Dangerous Companion — A Norwegian Sportsman — The " Urvand"- Trout Fishing— The Golden Eagle— The Bird of Odin- Method of Catching Eagles — Magpies — Scarcity of Timber. 338—350

CHAPTER XXXIII.

A Fishing Excursion to Vaago — Ptarmigan Shooting — The Black Fox — Andb— Wild Geese— Wild Swans— A Place of Call for Aquatic Birds — Ermine Weasels— Puffins— The Fall of the Year — Breakers Ahead— XX CONTENTS. Autumnal Scenery — An Instance of Norwegian Politeness — A Solitary Beggar — An Aged Crone — A New Road to Kongsvold — The Norwe gian and Swedish Laws of Divorce — Curious Cavalcade — Paul Toste — ■ An Unpatriotic Portrait — Preparations for Winter— The Kringelen Pass —The Scene of a Tragedy— Traffic on the Main Roads— The Railway between Christiania and Lake Miosen — Dale Gudbrad — The Advantages of English Management — Elk Venison — An Uninteresting Mode of Hunting — A Fatal Mistake — Conclusion. . . 351 — 373 CONCLUDING CHAPTER. The Norse Language — The Court of Hustings — The Jury-Muzzle— The Victualling Department — Quite the Cheese — Setting Off — The Dogsack — Cheap Living— Walking Tours in Norway not to be recommended — Luggage Labels— Learn the Language. . . 374 — l.tit.dm l'ui"'ln/Hurjti.BUsdstlt 1,'M.rUAn.xt. JSS7. THE OXONIAN IN NORWAY ♦

Chapter I

Oxford Gaieties and Oxford Dulness— Migratory tendencies — An important Query — What you will not find in Norway — Parisian Cockneyism and Piscatorial Heresies— The Delights of Norway — The Waterfalls — Incidents of the Voyage — The Jealousy of " Old Norwegians "—Ill feeling between the Danes and the Norsemen — Russian Vessels under the Battery of Oddero — Christiansand — The best Drink in Norway— A Rustic Pastor — A Bishop smokes a Havannah — Beneficial Effects of Free Trade on the Norwegian Mercantile Marine. Oxford Commemoration had come and gone. The eloquent Chancellor had laid the first stone of the new Museum, and expatiated before a crowd of eager listeners — enchanted with the fluent oratory and noble bearing of my Lord of Derby — on the advantages which would accrue from the new Institution to Physical Science in general, and Oxford in particular.

The Right Honour able W. E. Gladstone had, also, appeared on the scene, anxious, doubtless, to keep his wavering supporters steady in their allegiance. But his peculiar theories on " the paramount destinies of Russia " will not so soon B OXFORD GAIETIES. be forgotten. The ladies fair, who on these occasions invade the precincts of the monasteries, startling the grave Dons from their propriety, or rather thawing ana animating the cold and lifeless monachism of the place, had all disappeared like a dream ; not a few having inflicted wounds which only matrimony will scar over. The Colleges were empty. Undergraduates off upon reading rjarties. The Seniors to Scotland or the con tinent. Quite right too ! There is nothing like escap ing for a time from the circle of dull regularities, in which our insular life rejoices to move.