The Diary of an Invalid; being the Journal of a Tour ... in Portugal, Italy, Switzerland and France in the years 1817-1819

Front matter

THE DIARY OF AN INVALID BEING THE JOURNAL OF A TOUR IN PURSUIT OF HEALTH IN PORTUGAL ITALY SWITZERLAND AND FRANCE IN THE YEARS 1817 1818 and 1819 BY HENRY MATTHEWS Esq. A. M. FELLOW OF KING'S COLLEGE CAMBRIDGE talking ofthe Alps and Apennines The Pyrcnæan and the River Po Siiakspeake SECOND EDITION LONDON JOHN MURRAY MDCCCXX LONDON Primed by W. Clowei, Northumberland-court. TO THE Rev. ARTHUR MATTHEWS B.D. FF.I.s.OW OF RRAZENOSE COLLEGE OXFORD AND PREBENDARY OP HEREFORD THIS VOLUME IS INSCRIBED AS A TOKEN OF ESTEEM AND FRIENDSHIP BY HIS FAITHFUL AND AFFECTIONATE BROTHER THE AUTHOR a

ADVERTISEMENT.

TO THE SECOND EDITION. THE immediate demand for a new edition of " The Diary of an Invalid," has furnished the author with a fresh inducement, to endeavour, as far as the time would permit, to render it less unworthy of public attention. Some passages have been altered, and some addi tions made ; and, with a vieAV to facilitate the task of perusal, the narrative has been broken into chapters ; in order that the reader may be conducted, by easier stages, from one end of the volume to the other. Without interruptions of this kind, indeed, as Field ing says, the best narrative must overpower every reader ; for nothing short of the everlasting watch fulness which Homer has ascribed to Jove himself, can be proof against a continued newspaper.

Preface

. The following pages may seem to require some apology, being as they are the trans cript of a Journal, written to amuse the hours of indisposition, without any idea of publication. From these materials, I was induced, upon my return to England, to begin an ac count of my travels in a more serious and sustained style of composition ; but my work was arrested, by hearing from those, to whose judgment I have deferred, that I was labour ing only to deprive my Journal of almost all that made it interesting in its original form; — like an indifferent artist, whose finished picture has often less to recommend it, than his first rough sketch from nature. Though this may be no excuse, for publish ing a Volume at all ; yet, it will at least serve to explain, why that Volume has ap peared in its present shape.

PREPACK. In preparing it for the press, I have been less solicitous to add, than to take away; but, in adhering to the original Diary, it was impossible to avoid frequent egotism ; so that if I should be found on many occasions, uninteresting or even impertinent, I fear I have nothing to plead in my excuse, but must throw myself entirely on the charitable consideration of the Reader. TABLE OF CONTENTS. Page LISBON • . . 10 Cintra 16 Police of Lisbon 22 Superstition of the People .... 23 Leghorn Roads 33 Quarantine 35 PISA 36 FLORENCE 38 The Gallery 40 Venus de Medicis .... 43, 263 Pitti Palace 45 Canova's Venus ...... 48 Countess of Albany 49 Pitti Collection of Paintings .... 52 Raphael ..... 53 Vandyke .... 54 Salvator Rosa 55 Gabinetto Fisico 56 Santa Croce .57 ROME 64 Forum ........ 69 Palace of the Cæsars . • • 71 Climate . . • ■ X CONTENTS.

ROME (continued. J Page Tiber 74 Cloaca Maxima ....... 76 Baths of Caracalla 78 Fountain of Egeria . . . . . .79 St. Peter's 81 Resemblance between Catholic and Heathen Ceremonies ....... 90 Baths of Dioclesian ..... 95 Funeral Ceremonies in Rome .... 96 Palaces 98 Fountains 103 Pantheon 104 Tarpeian Rock 105 Close of the Year '. 107 Pope's Chapel 109 Italian Women 113 Michael Angelo — Last Judgment . . .114 Modern Capitol 119 Mamertine Prisons 122 Canova 124, 134, 229 Thorwaldson 127 229 Princess Pauline 128 Vatican 129 Galleries of Raphael 130 The Transfiguration 131 Apollo Belvedere . . . . . .132 Laocoon 136 System of Robbery . . . . 140 168 Festival of St. Anthony, and Blessing of Horses 141 Roman Arts 143 Festival in St. Peter's I44 Carnival . . > .149 Improvisatrice . . CONTENTS. XI ROME (continued.)

Pa e Baths of Titus . . .152 Coliseum . . jrg Pasquin's Statue 159 End of the Carvival . . Igo Pontine Marshes .... 167 Capua ... 17. NAPLES 172 Pompeii . j77 Museo Borbonico . . in. Italian Parties . joq Neapolitan Army 195 Virgil's Tomb . ,n7 Puzzuoli. — Baiæ . jqq Monte Nuovo . . , 200 Avernus. — Tomb of Scipio 201 Solfaterra . . , 002 Grotta del Cane . 203 Gaming Table .... 207 Burial of the Dead in Naples 211 Catholic Ceremonies . . 213 Portici Museum .... 214 Murat 217 Vesuvius . .... 219 Herculaneum . . . 220 Lazzaroni . . . „„. Opera — Music . . 225 ROME 1 • • • . . . # 228 Criminal Guillotined . . . 229 Tivoli • •' '. 233 Claude Lorraine . . 234 Lunatic Asylum . . 23s Roman Politics . . t 23fi CONTENTS. Page ROME (continued.) Computation of Time .... 239 Italian Preaching ... • 240 Treatment of Robbers . . . . 243 Serenading ..... 244 Paganini . . ■ ■ .245 Papal Blessing ... . .246 Leave Rome for Florence .... 247 Falls of Terni . . . . 249 State of Agriculture in Tuscany . . . 254 FLORENCE 256 State of Society in Italy .... 2.57 Cavaliere servente System . . . 259 Origin of the Italian Language . . . 264 Bologna ... . . .270 VENICE . . . . . 274 St. Mark's Place .... 275 Ducal Palace . . ... 276 Fall of the Republic . . . . 277 Titian ...... 280 Rialto 282 Gold Chain Manufacture . . .283 Leave Venice for Milan 285 Verona . ..... 287 Emperor Napoleon ..... 289 Paternal Government of Austria . . . 293 MILAN -296 Lake of Como .... . 303 Lago Maggiore . . . . .305 Simplon Road ..... 307 SWITZERLAND .... .312 Goitres . ... 313 Cretins . . . . .314 CONTENTS.

XIII SWITZERLAND (continued) Pase Pisse Vache ....... 315 Clarens ........ 316 LAUSANNE 317, 326 Martigny 318 Great St. Bernard 320 Lake of Geneva 324 Pays de Vaud 326 Observance of Sunday ..... 328 BERN 331 Constitution of Switzerland .... 333 Lake of Thun 334 Lauterbrunn ....... 335 Fall ofthe Staubach 336 Glaciers .... ... 338 Interlaken ... . 339 Brienz ... . . 340 Falls of the Giesbach 341 Cantonal Governments ..... 342 LUCERNE .... .... 344 Schwytz ........ 345 Ecroulement of the Rossberg .... 346 Falls of the Rhine 347 Zurich ........ 350 Zug . . • . . • . . 351 Rigi ' 352 Management of Cattle ..... 354 GENEVA 358 Ferney . . . . • . . . 359 Voltaire 360 Chamouni • 363 Mer de Glace 365 Baths of Aix CONTENTS.

Page LYONS 370 Hannibal's passage of the Rhone . . . 377 Revolutionary Horrors ..... 380 NISMES 383 MONTPELLIER 384 Climate 386 Party Spirit 387 Conscription Laws . . .... 388 Property Tax 390 Buffon 393 French Sentiment . . . , . . • 394 The Iron Mask 396 Rousseau 398 Beziers 402 Canal of Languedoc 403 TOULOUSE 405 Jean Calas 406 Battle of Toulouse 408 French Politics 410 La Fontaine . 416 Law of Elections 417 L'Ecole Royale de Toulouse .... 420 French Cookery 422 French Cleanliness 425 Criminal Trials 429 Party Spirit 436 Anniversary of the Death of Louis XVI. . . 436 Missionaries 439, 446 Barthelemy's Motion in the Chamber of Peers 441 French Revolution ... . . 442 Profession of a Novice . . . . 44,5 Racine .... .... 447 French Drama .... , CONTENTS XV , i"ag<- BOURDEAUX .... . . 458 Talma 461 French Wines . 464 Tours 470 Scenery of the Loire 472 State of Society in France 473 French Law of Inheritance . . . . 475 Versailles 477 PARIS 479 Comparison of Paris with London . . . 480 Catacombs ... . 486 Luxembourg ....... 488 Chamber of Deputies . . . 489 Theatre Francais 494 French Opera ..... . 498 Louvre 499 French Women . . . . . .501 Gaming Tables . . ... 504 Gobelin Tapestry 507 Institution for the Deaf and Dumb . . . 508 French Character 512 Return to England by Dieppe .... 513 Conclusion ..... • DIARY OF AN INVALID, fye.

Chapter I

Departure from England— Voyage to Lisbon— Usbon — Cintra — Police of Lisbon — Superstition of the People — Departure from Lisbon. September 6th, 1817. I BELIEVE it is Horace Walpole who says, — quoting a remark of Gray, — that if any man would keep a faithful account of what he had seen and heard himself, it must, in whatever hands, prove an interesting one. The observation would perhaps be strictly true, if nothing Avere recorded but what really appeared at the time to be worth remembering ; whereas, I believe, most Avriters of Journals keep their minds upon the stretch, to insert as much matter as possible. It is with the fear of affording an exception to Mr. Gray's observation, that I begin a brief chronicle of what I may think, see, and hear, during the pilgrimage Avhich I am about to undertake.

In obedience to medical advice, I have at last de* termined to set out upon a wild-goose chase after *■ DEPARTURE FROM ENGLAND. health, and try, like honest Tristram Shandy, whether it be possible to run away from death ; — and, in spite of Horace's hint of Mors etfugacem perseqidtur virum, I have this day completed the first stage of my journey. Who has not experienced the bitter feelings with which one turns round on the last height, that com mands the last view of home ? This farewell look was longer than usual, for in my state I can scarcely hope ever to see it again. But if, as Pope says, Life can little more supply,* Than just to look about us and to die, I certainly have no time to lose. 7th. My flight has been necessarily too rapid to allow any time for the gratification of curiosity on this side ofthe Avater ; and I have passed through Glouces ter, Bath, and Exeter, without seeing more of those places than might be viewed from the coach windoAv. 8th.

All I saw of Plymouth Avas in rowing across the Hamoaze, in my way to Tor Point, from whence the mail-coach starts. The harbour, full of three deckers, presents a glorious sight ; Avhich an English man cannot look at Avithout feeling that inward glory ing and exultation of sold, Avhich Longinus describes as the effect of the sublime. At Tor Point avc found the mail-coach, and after a tedious drag, accomplished sixty-five miles in twelve hours. Every thing in this district savours of the sea. The inhabitants are a sort of amphibians race. The very DEPARTURE FROM ENGLAND. coachman partook of the marine nature ; and the slang peculiar to his calling was tempered with sea-phrases. The coach was to be under-sail at such an hour, and it was promoted from the neuter to the feminine gen der, with as much reason perhaps as the ship.

At FalmouthI found my brother* waiting my arrival, — whose anxiety respecting my health, as it had led him to urge the trial of a voyage, determined him also to accompany me across the sea. 10th and 11th. Agonies of deliberation upon my future plans. — Too much deliberation is certainly worse than too little. This difficulty of deciding arises perhaps from the wish to combine advantages which are incompa tible. A man is too apt to forget, that in this world he cannot have every thing. A choice is all that is left him. The world was all before me, where to choose, — but the difficulty ofthe choice was increased by the arrival of a packet from Lord Viscount S., whose obliging kindness, — of which I am happy to have an occasion of expressing my grateful sense, — furnished me with passports and letters to various quarters ; — for this, by enlarging the scope, embarrassed the decision of my plans.

At last I resolved to embark in the Malta packet, with the option of determining my bargain Avith the captain, at the first port at which he might touch. *■"■ The Rev. A. M. B 12th. Received a hasty summons at seven o'clock in the evening. The post from London brought orders that the Malta packet should carry out the Lisbon as well as the" Mediterranean mails. In a moment all was, " bustle! bustle!" On a fine star light evening, the boat-men came to carry us and our baggage on board. — Kissed the last stone of granite, from which I stepped into the boat, with affection and regret. All the pains of parting were renewed at this moment ; — but, luckily, at such a moment, one has scarcely leisure for the indulgence of any feel ings. In a few minutes we were on board ; — at ten o'clock the Princess Charlotte packet slipped from her moorings, — and we were fairly off. 13th.

At day-break we found ourselves off the Lizard, in a dead calm, with a heavy swell. Here began the horrors of sea-sickness ! Mind cannot conceive, nor imagination paint the afflicting agonies of this state of suffering. I am surprised the poets have made no use of it in their descriptions of the place of torment ; — for it might have furnished an excellent hint for improving the punishments of their hells. What are the waters of Tantalus, or the stone of Sisyphus, when compared with the throes of sea-sickness ? 14th. Still below. — Here the poor devil is con fined in a dark and dismal hole, six feet by three, below the level of the water ; with the waves roaring in his ears, — raging as it were to get at him, — from which he is only protected by a single plank, and with the noises of Pandemonium all round him.

The depression and despondency of spirit which accompany the sickness, deprive the mind of all its energy, and fill up the last trait in the resemblance, by taking away even the consolations of hope, — that last resource of the miserable, — which comes to all, but to the damned and the sea-sick. 16th. Gleam of comfort ! — Began to be reconciled to the motion of the vessel. Though, in the hour of sickness, I had vowed, as is usual, that if fortune should once set me on shore at Lisbon, nothing should ever tempt me on ship-board again, I now began to contemplate a voyage to Malta with some degree of pleasure, and thought no more of my vow, — than the Devil did of his sick resolution to turn Friar. 17th. A fresh breeze. Our progress has been hitherto most favourable. If Neptune himself had been' shoving us along with his trident, we could not have proceeded more directly in our course.

It must be confessed that a journey by water has some ad vantages over a journey by land. You move along without the jolting of ruts, and your progress is not impeded by the incidents of eating, drinking, and sleeping. But then, nothing can be less interesting than the dull uniformity of the sea scene. The view, when out of sight of land, is much less vast than I had expected. The panorama is limited to a little circle of Avater, seven miles all round us. Within the limits of this circle we move along, day after day, without the least variety of prospect or incident. We have not yet encountered a single sail ; and I had imagined, that in so beaten a track as we are pursuing, we should have met ships as thick as stage coaches on the Bath road: 18th. The wind died away last night. A dead calm. — Got up to see the sun rise. — Much has been said of the splendour of this sight at sea ; but I cori fess I think it inferior to the same scene on shore.

There is indeed plenty of the — " dread magnificence of Heaven," — but it is all over in a moment. The sun braves the east, and carries the heavens by a coup-de-main; instead of approaching gradually, as he does on land, preceded by a troop of rosy mes sengers that prepare you for his arrival. One misses the charming variety of the terrestrial scene ; — the wood and water ; — the hill and dale ; — the "babbling brook ;" — the " pomp of groves and garniture of fields." At sea, too, all is inanimate ; for the gam bols of the fishes, — if they do gambol at their matins, — are out of sight ; and it is the effect of morning on living sentient beings that constitutes its great charm: At sea, there is — " no song of earliest birds ;" — no ** warbling woodland;"— no " Avhistling plough-boy ;" — nothing, in short, to awaken interest or sympathy.

There is magnificence and splendour — but it is soli tary splendour. Let me rather see — " the morn, in russet mantle clad, walk o'er the dew of yon high Malvern hill." — But, alas!-— when am I likely to behold this sight again? In the evening, I sat on the deck to enjoy the moon-light. If the sun-rise be best seen on shore, the moon-light has the advantage at sea. At this season of repose, the absence of living objects is not felt. A lovely night. — The moon, in this latitude, has a sil very brightness which we never see in England. — It Avas a night for romance ; — such as Shakspeare de scribes, when Troilus sighed his soul to absent Cres sid ; — the sea, calm and tranquil as the bosom of in nocence ; — not a breath of air ; — Avhile the reflection of the moon and stars, and the gentle rippling of the water against the sides of the vessel, completed the magic of the scene.

Sat with my face turned towards England, absorbed in the reflections which it is the effect of such a night to encourage ; — and indulged in that secret devotion of the heart, which, at such seasons particularly, the heart loves to pay to the absent objects of its affections. 19th. A foul wind. A poor little bird, of a species unknown in England, alighted on the steersman's shoulder, quite spent with fatigue, and allowed itself to be taken. Probably making its Avay from America to Portugal. To-day, saw a sail, for the first time. 20th. The foul wind still continues. Here we are within a hundred miles of Lisbon, and yet without ahope of getting there, till it shall please the wind to change. I remember Lord Bacon says, " 'Tis a strange thing, that in sea voyages, where there is nothing to be seen but sky and sea, men should make diaries."

But it is a stranger thing to me the Viscount of St. Alban's should not perceive, that where there is no thing to be seen, there is little to be done ; and that a man must needs scribble in his own defence, — though it be but to register the winds, and chronicle the clouds. In adjusting the balance between land and water carriage, I had till to-day been in some doubt ; but four-and-twenty hours of beating to windward have put the question beyond all doubt ; for though you may move along without fatigue, it is terribly fatiguing to stand still; — especially with the wind in your teeth. So long, therefore, as the wind — " bloweth where it listeth," — I believe we must agree that old Cato's repentance was well founded. Sunday, 21st. To-day Ave have again a breeze in our favour. All the crew are busily employed.

This demand for hands prevents the celebration of Church Service, Avhich was read by the Captain last Sunday. The deck of a ship, out of sight of land, Avith no thing above but the — " brave o'erhanging firma ment," — with its — " majestical roof fretted with golden fire," — is better calculated to inspire feelings of devotion, than the proudest temple that was ever dedicated to the Avorship of the Supreme Being. 22d. Once more welcomed the sight of land ! Indeed, I believe, we did catch a glimpse of Cape Finisterre in our passage, but it might have been a " camel " or a " whale ;" — this morning, however, the rock of Lisbon rose with clouded majesty within a few miles of us. At eleven o'clock we fired a gun, and hoisted a signal for a pilot. A number of boats immediately put off to us, and the quickest sailor obtained the job.

Our first interview with the natives has not pre possessed us in their favour. From an uncouth clumsy boat, we have taken in a meagre swarthy fellow, with a face as red as Kean's, in Othello. He soon gave us a sample of the choleric disposition of his nation. The captain seemed to doubt his skill, and sending below for his pistols, he intimated to the pilot, that if he should get his ship a-ground, he would, on the instant, shoot him through the head. The fellow Avas transported with indignation at this menace ; and, though alone amongst strangers, he drew his knife, and threatened to revenge himself for the insult. We crept along the shore at a snail's pace, and did not anchor within the bar of the harbour, till ten at night. 23d. Beautiful day. Sailed up the Tagus. The view is certainly magnificent ; but it has, I think, been over-rated by travellers.

He Avho has seen London from Greenwich Park, may survey without any great astonishment the capital of Portugal. The LISBON. finest feature is the river, compared with which, the Thames sinks into insignificance. Each side has its peculiar beauties, and, I doubt whether the left bank, with its vineyards and orange groves, does not at tract the eye as much as the right, on which the town stands. The entire absence of smoke is a striking novelty to an English eye, and at first gives an idea that the town must be without inhabitants. Being tired of the sea, I resolved to stay at Lis bon. Some little difficulties occurred, in conse quence of the want of passports; — but these were soon removed ; and after a broiling Avalk in search of lodgings, we subsided at last in Reeve's hotel, Rua do Prior, Buenos Ayres; — an excellent house, kept by an Englishman — full of cleanliness and comfort ; — and these are qualities which one appreciates at their just value, after a Avalk through the streets of Lisbon.

Though travellers may have exaggerated the beauties of the view, I have seen no description that does justice to the indescribable nastiness of the town. I have spoken of the view from the river as magnificent, but, I believe, the true epithet would have been imposing ; for it is mere deceit and delusion : the prestige vanishes at once on landing ; and the gay and glitteriug city proves to be a painted se pulchre. Filth and beastliness assaidt you at every turn, — in their most loathsome and disgusting shapes. In yielding to first impressions, one is generally led LISBON. to exaggerate ; but the abominations of Lisbon are incapable of exaggeration. 24th and 25th. Jaunted about Lisbon by land and water carriage. To walk about the streets is scarcely possible for an invalid. A clumsy sort of carriage on two wheels, driven by a postilion, with a pair of mules, is to be hired by the day, or the half day ; — but not at a cheaper rate than one might hire a coach in London.

A good idea of these carriages will be formed from the prints in the old edi tions of Gil Bias, since whose time, no improvement seems to have taken place in vehicular architecture. I have already experienced the truth of Mr. Bowd ler's remark, — " that in Lisbon, under a scorching sun, you are constantly exposed to a cold wind." The Portuguese guard against this by a large great coat which is worn loose like a mantle, Avith hanging sinecure sleeves, and which they Avrap round them, when in turning a corner they encounter the wind. The use of this sweltering surtout, in some shape or other, is universal, even in the hottest weather ; — but the remedy is, perhaps, worse than the disease. There is something in the appearance of Lisbon that seems to portend an earthquake ; and, instead of wondering that it was once visited by such a calamity, I am rather disposed to consider its daily preservation as a standing miracle.

Repeated shocks have been felt of late years ; and to an earthquake it may look, as its natural death. From the vestiges which the LISBON. indolence of the people has allowed to remain, one might fancy the last convulsion had taken place but a few months. Many ruins are now standing just as the earthquake left them. — Gorgeous Palaces, — and — Solemn Temples, — now totter in crumbling ruins, an awful monument of the fatal wreck. There" are some streets, built since the earthquake, with trot toirs on each side, which make a handsome appear ance ; and, with any industry on the part of the people, the whole town might be made one of the most cleanly in Europe ; — the undulating nature of the ground being so well calculated for carrying away all impurities. At present, the only scavengers are the dogs, which roam about the streets in hordes, without homes or masters, seeking what they may devour.

And indeed, where all sorts of filth and offal are thrown into the street, till they shall be carried by the next shower into the Tagus, the dogs are not without their use ; and the legislature has not been wholly inattentive to their accommodation. There is an old law obliging certain trades to keep a vessel of water at the doors of their houses for the refresh ment of these freebooters. Canine madness is, I am told, almost unknoAvn here, and it is well that it is so. Upon the whole, the dogs behave very well, — except to one another ; but it is up-hill work to a new settler, for he must fight his Avay. They arc strict preservers ;— if any dog is caught out of the JOURNEY TO CINTRA. 13 limits of his own manor, he is proceeded against as a wilful trespasser, Avithout any notice. 26th. Rose at day-break, and set out in a cabriolet with a stout pair of mules for Cintra.

The scarcity of gold, and the depreciation of their vile paper money, exposed me to the inconvenience of carrying about a travelling treasury of silver crusa dos in a green baize bag, heavy with the weight of 150,000 rees. How rich this sounds ! — but alas, the high-sounding sesterces of the Romans are nothing to the paltry pomposity of Portuguese arithmetic, — for the ree is little more than the fourth of a far thing. The road to Cintra carried me near to the great aqueduct of Alcantara, — the work of Manuel de Maya, in 1738, — which stretches across a wide and deep valley, by a range of thirty-five arches. The centre one of these is said to be the highest arch in the world, and the view from the ground looking up- Avards at it, is beyond measure grand and imposing. The width is 107 French feet, and the height 230.

I paced the whole range of the aqueduct, across which there is a fine stone walk of about three quarters of a mile, protected by a parapet. This vast work, while it remains a monument of the indus try of the Portuguese, would lead one to believe that they were, — as the ancients also are supposed to have been, — ignorant of the first principles of hydraulics, Avhich have every where else superseded the necessity JOURNEY TO CINTRA. of such stupendous structures. Still, in point of architectural grandeur and magnificence, it is a just source of national pride ; and in a country, where so few great undertakings, unconnected with religion, are brought to perfection, it stands like the Giant Gulliver amongst the pigmies of Lilliput. Apropos of giants ; — whole armies of windmills, are seen here on every side ; — and it is well observed by Semple, that Don Quixote's mistake, Avhich is too absurd if judged by English windmills, is rendered probable by the sight of these, which look like good sturdy giants of ten feet high.

Great attention seems every where paid to the preservation of water in this country. Fountains of marble, of neat and often elegant architecture, with large troughs, are constructed on the road-side, for the use of the traveller and his beasts. My postilion, however, having accomplished one half of his journey, seemed to think that his mules, or himself, or both, for they fared alike, required something bet ter than water ; so he stopped at the half-way house, with " Vinho do Porto. Carcavelos. Color es, fye. fye," inscribed on its front, and there fed himself and his beasts with bread soaked in wine. By virtue of this restorative, we contrived to reach Cintra; — having consumed nearly five hours in a stage of not more than sixteen English miles ; — though, it must be confessed, that the road was so rough, that greater speed might have been disagreeable.