England to Delhi: a narrative of India travel, etc

Front matter

ENGLAND TO DELHI. LONDON: PRINTED I5Y SPOTTISWOODE AND CO., NEW-STREET SQUARE AND PARLIAMENT STREET BENARES. ENGLAND TO DELHI A NARRATIVE OF INDIAN TRAVEL. BY JOHN MATHESON, GLASGOAA'. ' The proper means of increasing the love we bear our native country is to reside some time in a foreign one! Shenstone. WITH A MAP AND EIGHTY-TWO ILLUSTRATIONS DRAWN ON WOOD BY ROBERT TENNENT AND ENGRAVED BY STEPHEN MILLER AND GEORGE PEARSON. LONDON: LONGMANS, GREEN, AND CO. 1870. TO HER WHO WAS THE COMPANION OF THE WRITER IN HIS VISIT TO THE FAR EAST THIS BOOK IS AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATED.

Preface

HE JOURNEY described in the following pages was undertaken from a desire to form some personal ac quaintance with a country chiefly known to me through the medium of a close mercantile connection. In a word, business, not bookmaking, was its primary object. No one, however, Avho visits our Eastern empire can fail to be forcibly impressed with the novelty of its aspect, and with the strong contrast which it presents to the ordinary routine of European life.

PREFACE.

. VIII The result of this feeling, in my case, was a series of jottings made on the spot, and designed for the information or entertainment of friends at home ; but AA'hich, having more recently undergone careful revision, as well as some extension, with reference to later events, are now accorded a wider publicity. Although the preparation of these memoranda for the press A\ras thus due to an after-thought, and seven years have elapsed since my return home, I have not been un mindful of what has taken place in the interval, and would even indulge the hope that my narrative may be found to have preserved its freshness, and to possess a direct bearing on the existing situation of affairs in British India. For such information as I have been able to present, apart from my oaati experience and the statistics gleaned from official documents, I am indebted, not to other volumes of a similar nature, but to the courtesy of friends noAv or very recently resident in the East, and to the columns of the current Anglo-Indian journals. It would be vain to expect that the accuracy of the particulars thus acquired should pass Avholly unchal-

PREFACE.

. IX lenged. I can only assert that I have recorded my own impressions with scrupulous — perhaps prolix — fidelity, and adopted no statement of fact on what I conceived to be loose or insufficient data. At the same time, it has been my desire and endeavour to avoid all expres sions calculated to produce in any quarter a just feeling of offence. If I have ventured to touch upon grave questions affecting the condition and prospects of India, this has been done rather to indicate the importance of such topics than to interfere with their treatment in more competent hands. Indeed, my aim has been simply to afford those who are not conversant with the subject, and who may choose to accompany me through these incidents of travel, a passing glimpse of the social features and material resources of that wonderful Indian continent with which the welfare of our own country is now so intimately associated. J. M. Glasgoav: December, 1869. CONTENTS. PAGE

Chapter I. The Gateway Of Departure

. . . i II. THE THRESHOLD OF THE EAST . . .5 III. THE MEETING OF THE WATERS . . .16 IV. THE SOUNDS AND SIGHTS OF CAIRO . . 23 V. LIFE IN DEATH 32 VI. A FIERY CHANNEL AND A BURNING ROCK . 35 VII. A SHIP AT SEA 46 VIII. OTHER WORLDS 51 IX. BOMBAY AND ITS PEOPLE . . . .59 X. BOMBAY LIFE AND INDUSTRY . . .77 XI. A CHAPTER OF VARIETIES . . . .88 CONTENTS. XII PAGE CHAP. XII. ASIATIC CREEDS: HINDOOISM ■ 99 XIII. ASIATIC CREEDS: BUDDHISM . . .108 XIV. ADMINISTRATIVE AND TERRITORIAL . .no XV. THE PARSERS' FAITH AND SEPULTURE . 118 XVI. THE NAUTCH 125 XVII. TANK AND TEMPLE 131 XVIII. THE HEIGHTS OF KENERY . . . .135 XIX. MATERAN MOUNTAIN 140 XX. MALABAR AND PALKE 146 XXI. CEYLON AND ITS STORY . . . ,52 XXII. CEYLON AND ITS STORY— continued . . i77 XXIII. COROMANDEL SANDS ... ,85 XXIV. MADRAS WITHOUT ... ,g8 XXV.

MADRAS WITHIN . . ... 194 XXVI. ORISSA— THE SUNDERBUNDS-THE HOOGHLY- PORT CANNING . . . 22I CONTENTS. XIII TAGE CHAP. XXVII. THE CAPITAL OF INDIA . . . .236 XXVIII. RAILWAY GLIMPSES . . . . .277 XXIX. A ROLLING COUCH 287 XXX. INCIDENTS OF HILL AND PLAIN . . .292 XXXI. THE HEATHEN CAPITAL . . . .306 XXXII. ON THE GRAND TRUNK ROAD . . .324 XXXIII. OLD AND NEW ALLAHABAD . . .338 XXXIV. MORE INCIDENTS OF THE WAY . . .347 XXXV. DELHI, PAST AND PRESENT . . .354 XXXVI. MARRIAGE AND FEMALE EDUCATION . . 37S XXXVII. THE MOFUSSIL 387 XXXVIII. AGRA, AS IT WAS AND IS . . 397 XXXIX. POLICE AFFAIRS AND THE CRIMINAL CLASSES 409 XL. MELANCHOLY C AWN PO RE . . . .419 XLI. THE TALE OF LUCKNOW . . . .428 CONTENTS. PAGE CHAP. XLII. MERCANTILE MIRZA PORE . . . -452 XLIII. INDIGENOUS INDUSTRY . .... 465 XLIV. THANATOPSIS . . . . . .485 XLV.

CONCLUSION ILLUSTRATIONS. TAGE MAP SHOAVING THE RAILWAYS IN INDIA IN 1869 to face 509 PAGE BENARES ..... frontispiece CATAMARANS 191 MOSQUE OF MAHOMED ABA, CITADEL, CAIRO .... to face 23 MUSSULAH BOAT .... 192 VIEW OF MADRAS . . to face 194 TOMBS OF THE CALIPHS ... 24 ST. ANDREAV'S CHURCH, MADRAS . 196 CAIRO .... toface 25 BEACH OF MADRAS .... 202 CAIRO LADY 29 GOVERNMENT HOUSE, MADRAS . . 209 BOMBAY COAST 60 INDIAN LIBRA 210 BOMBAY FROM MALABAR HILL . . 6 1 GROUP OF JUGGLERS . . . .212 TALANQUIN AND BEARERS ... 67 JUGGERNAUTH CAR .... 223 ELPHINSTONE CIRCLE ... 72 FAMINE IN ORISSA .... 225 STRIKING A BARGAIN ... 75 COOLIE HUT, BENGAL . . . 23I NAUTCH GIRLS 127 CALCUTTA, WITH PART OF MAIDAN PARSEE LADY AND CHILD . . . 129 toface 236 ROCK CAVES OF KENERY . to face 1 36 LANDING AT CALCUTTA . . . 238 COOLIES ON A COFFEE ESTATE . . l6l OLD COURT HOUSE STREET, CAL- TAMIL AVOMEN PICKING COFFEE 164 CUTTA toface 239 toface 165 SCENE NEAR COLOMBO THE BHEESTIE 242 CINNAMON PEELERS, CEYLON . . 1 70 PIECE-GOODS MERCHANTS . . . 247 TEMPLES ON THE HOOGHLY . . 256 KADUGINAWA PASS . . . -172 GHAUT NEAR BARRACKPORE . . 258 LAKE AND TOWN OF KANDY . -173 DRAWING TODDY . . . • 1 79 BARRACKPORE PARK .... 259 BUDDHIST TEMPLE, CEYLON . l8l THE HOUSEHOLD STAFF . . .

ILLUSTRATIONS. XVI PAGE PAGE BENGAL RUSTIC SCENE . . . 281 CAWNPORE 42° NATIVE ATTENDANT .... 290 OLD WELL OF CAWNPORE . . . 422 WELL OF CAWNPORE, AS IT IS . 423 ELEPHANT WITH HOWDAH . . 329 INTERIOR OF WELL AT CAWNPORE . 424 RURAL VIEW, BENGAL . . . 335 GHAUT ON THE GANGES WHERE NANA SAHIB FIRED ON THE ESCAPE BOAT 426 NATIVE BARBER ..... 344 WORKING JEWELLER, DELHI . . 358 CITY OF LUCKNOW . . toface 432 WEAVER AND WINDER OF THREAD . 360 THE KAISERBAGH .... 433 JUMMA MUSJID, DELHI . . . 361 GATEWAY OF THE KAISERBAGH . . 435 DELHI, FROM THE OUTER COURT OF THE JUMMA MUSJID . to face 362 BRIDGE NEAR LUCKNOW . . . 437 RAILWAY BRIDGE OVER THE JUMNA . 364 RUINS OF THE RESIDENCY . . . 439 RUINS OF OLD DELHI . . . 366 GRAVES OF NEILL AND LAWRENCE . 44O TOMB OF HUMAYOON, DELHI . . 368 THE GREAT IMAMBARRA . . . 44!

THE TANNER'S YARD .... 472 THE OBSERVATORY, DELHI . . 369 OKOO WORKING HIS OIL-MILL . . 473 KUTUB MINAR, DELHI . . -371 RYOT 388 CAMPHOR REFINING .... 474 SHEIK CASSIM DYEING CLOTH . . 476 GATEWAY AT FORT AGRA . . . 399 FORT AT AGRA ..... 4OI GOPAL DISTILLING TODDY . . . 479 ACHIN ADMINISTERING OPIUM . . 480 THE TAJ MAHAL, AGRA . . . 403 CATGUT MAKERS . . . . 48 1 TAJ OF AGRA, FROM THE FOUNTAIN toface 404 THE HALALCORE .... 4S2 INTERIOR OF THE TAJ, AGRA . 405 CHARNEL GROUND, BOMBAY toface ENGLAND TO DELHI. **j

CHAPTER I. THE GATEWAY OF DEPARTURE.

O Winter, ruler of the inverted year, thou hold'st the sun A prisoner in the yet undawning east. — Coavper. Before me shone a glorious world, Fresh as a banner bright unfurled To music suddenly. I looked upon these hills and plains, And seemed as if let loose from chains, To live at liberty. — Wordsavorth. HE THEORY that the arts of civilization have destroyed the romance of travel is not one of universal application. We Britons, *,' for example, pale-faced inhabitants of a •■ northern latitude, as we shiver under the first attack of Avinter, are supplied by modern invention with the means of effecting an immediate change in the outAvard circumstances of our existence. We cannot of course re move the clouds that obscure the sun, or AvithdraAv from the earth its covering of snoAv ; but, leaving such phases of nature behind us, we can 1; THE GATEWAY OF DEPARTURE. [CH. -a pass, with Avhat our fathers would have deemed a supernatural speed, into the fields of light that shine beloAV the southern horizon.

Let it not be supposed, however, that the eastAvard route begun at Marseilles or Brindisi is also bright Avith the sunshine of social intercourse. On the contrary, the voyager will be more likely to discover himself lost to the Avorld amidst a large but by no means self-denying travelling party. The extent to AA'hich this passenger traffic has groAvn may be illustrated by reference to the last published accounts (June 1869) of the Peninsular and Oriental Steam Navigation Company, AA-hose ships still supply the great bulk of Avhat is called the Overland service to the East. From these accounts it appears that the Company's fleet (not including the tugs and transport ships), trading betAveen this country and the ports of India, China, Australia, and Japan, had then reached the extraordinary num ber of forty-eight large sea-going steamers, aggregating 88,532 tons, customs measurement, and 19,220 horse-poAver ; such being, I imagine, the largest shipping concern the AA'orld ever kneAA\ It Avere needless to recount the Avell-knoAvn routine of affairs on shipboard betAveen Europe and Alexandria, the more so that I have shown my bias tOAvards an unamiable vieAv of the subject.

The steamboat party is usually sufficiently large to form a stirring scene of life, Avhile at the same time it is composed of many heterogeneous elements, high and humble, military, civil, and mercantile ; so that, however fancy may gild the picture, it really consists of a shipload of people not at all en rapport Avith one another, but here met in close contact, on common ground, and altogether under circumstances by no means favourable, for A PACING THE DECK. 3 the development of the social amenities. Not that good felloAv ship may not be cultivated on board by those Avho desire that boon, for Avarm friendships frequently take root here. But, speaking generally, it may instruct speculative philanthropists to knoAv that the so called SAveetly romantic and sadly pathetic spectacle of a handful of human beings cast together on the Avide ocean, and journeying for the most part to distant and friendless shores, is by no means a melting scene of mutual sympathy and love ; in short, that in the little world here created the Utopian condition of ' liberty, fraternity, equality,' that shibboleth of revo lutionary heroes both at home and abroad, is tried and found Avanting.

It may besides benefit the uninitiated, to understand that the rule of experience in such cases is to give assumption, in all its forms, the widest possible berth. There are none Avho dislike neoflect so much as the Avould-be-oreat. It involves them in an unhappy sense of failure to begin with, and is sure to elicit, if anything on earth can, their respectful consideration in the end. At the outset only is the scene brisk and jaunty, as the pas sengers congregate on deck, attired in fantastic habits de mer, exhibiting all the hues of the rainbow, and every vagary of the tailoring art. Then privileged ships' officers, conspicuous with glitter of lace and buttons, mingle expectantly Avith the throng, canvassing the prospects of a flirtation, or at least searching for smiles and affability where they may chance to be found ; Avhile Avandering eyes everywhere ask the great question, 'Who's who ?' The serio-comic interlude that ordinarily ensues is due to the proverbial fickleness of the Mediterranean Sea.

On such a cradle, when it does swing, the most stirring of human passions B [ch. I. 4 THE GATEWAY OF DEPARTURE. are lulled — the pride of life itself is rocked to rest. No one taking his place in the sick circle pauses to consider the status of a near companion. Nautical-looking gentlemen, whose pro menade on deck was, but a moment ago, imposing to behold, now fall into attitudes that evidently are no longer designed for dignity of effect. Creat and small, reduced to a common level, meekly consort together, and the Avolf lies doAvn Avith the lamb.

Chapter II. The Threshold Of The East

Egypt, thou art no more ! thy hour is past ! Thy solemn symbols and mysterious rites Have sunk in fathomless oblivion !— Cuthbert Collingwood. Here at the peep of morning, Bedecked with dewy tears, Wild weeds her brow adorning. Lo! Enterprise appears.— Dr. E. D. Clarke. HILDHOOD'S bright fancies and indelible memories have consecrated to most of us the Bible ' Land of Egypt.' We first knew it from the sacred record, as a elorious enchanted realm — a land o of dreams, omens, and angels' visits. If it be true, as indeed it is, that not a lingering ray of that spiritual sunshine now remains to Egypt, no one will deny that in the mundane sense at least it is still a scene of Avonders. For Egypt, as all the Avorld knoAvs, is a country made up of social anomalies and physical contradictions; it is a land at once rainless and copiously Avatered ; where poverty crouches among the records [ch. 6 THE THRESHOLD OF THE EAST. of Avealth, and moulderine monuments on desert Avastes alternate Avith living herds and crops on rich alluvial soil.

No wonder, then, that a group of Avatchers should have occupied the poop, gazing ahead for the first glimpse of Egypt, as the dim outline of Alexandria rose out of the haze in front. As Ave approached nearer, that celebrated city became revealed as a strange jumble of ancient and modern erections — palaces, pillars, hovels, and earthen mounds — all massed together, Avith out plan or order, on a scorching coast, and forming the fore ground of a landscape that receded out of vieAv, seemingly on a dead level Avith the sea. Such is the gateway of the East ; but once Avithin its portals, and surrounded by the elegant buildings styled the ' Grand Square,' whither everything that is European tends and finds its location, Ave contemplate Avith pleasant sur prise a scene which, but for an admixture of SAvarthy Egyp tian coachmen and donkey boys, Avould precisely resemble the fashionable centre of a continental city.

For here, amidst fine shops and handsome equipages, Ave find a gay concourse of people in European costume. A sufficient explanation of this animated prospect may be read in the dry figures and prosaic details of commerce, the trade of Egypt Avith our OAvn and other countries having in creased very rapidly of late. This will appear by comparino former statistics Avith those supplied last year by our Eno-fish consul at Alexandria, to the effect that, in 1867, upAvards of 3,000 vessels of all nations, Avith a total tonnage of nearly 2,000,000, entered the port of Alexandria ; and that the value of the exports in the same year Avas about 10,000,000/., Avhile the Avhole imports of the country exceeded 6,000,000/. sterling. As showing the increasing resources of Egypt, the revenue for IT.] ALEXANDRLA. 7 1854 was estimated at a little over 3,000,000/., and that for 1868 (only fourteen years later) at close upon 7,500,000/ sterling.

The same attractions of fertility and geographical position, that dreAv the Macedonian conqueror thither some tAvo thousand years ago, have been influencing less famous, but more honest and peaceable, adventurers in our OAvn times, as the field of industry was gradually laid open by the rulers of the ' land of Egypt.' And thus European wealth and fashion have been growing apace in Alexandria, improving at the same time, as they are everywhere wont to do, in the circumstances, the con dition and prospects of a too long neglected and helpless race. This historical city has recently drawn towards itself many of the agencies of modern civilization. Side by side with ancient minarets, tall chimney stacks have risen ; steam engines are in active play, and Avithin the spacious harbour the keels of every nation ride securely.

When, indeed, the probable results of the Suez canal are considered in connection with the general pro gress of the country, it would seem that Alexandria is destined to become an African Marseilles, as the natural centre of that vast commerce between the eastern and western parts of the Avorld, the limits of whose further growth none can presume to define. Thus revived into life and activity after many ages of lassitude scarcely broken by the events of the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries, the ancient port of Eunostos, now called Alexandria, bustling with steamers from England, France, Trieste, and Constantinople, besides sailing vessels from all parts of the Western Avorld, already presents a more healthful scene of prosperity than it did in the grandest period of the Ptolemies. Such, hoAvever, is only the foreground of the picture.

In the *B THE THRESHOLD OF THE EAST. [ch. handsome appearance of the harbour Avith its ships, and of the Grand Square Avith its hotels and consulates, Ave behold but the firstfruits of modern improvement. Beyond this little nucleus of civilization and the Avell-plenished bazaars, where the native traders congregate, the mass of the population still SAvarms in dusty dens clustered beside bald, exposed graveyards that over lie the buried remains of Ptolemaic times — the 4,000 palaces, 4,000 baths, 400 theatres, and the ' many other Avonders,' Avhich Amrou the Conqueror said he ' could not describe ' in this in comparable 'city of the West.' The Avork of excavating these historical splendours is progressing Avith moderate success, under the direction of the government, although it Avould appear they are held by the desert sands in depths that only prolonged toil can render accessible.

Of such as had been recovered, at the time of Avhich I speak, feAv specimens remained on the spot. Cleopatra's Needles (one of them prostrate) served ingloriously to decorate a Avaste enclosure adjoining a sculptor's yard ; and Pompey's pillar, picturesque in its isolation, decorated a barren mound above the common highway. The present year has brought Avith it a happy calculation and suggestion, to the effect that the fallen Needle, Avhich is the property of the British nation, might be raised and conveyed to England at the trifling cost of 3,000/, to adorn the Thames Embankment, or the Temple Gardens, Avith an important relic of the old world. Of the famous Cata combs no other traces remain than a feAv shapeless excavations within a cave situated close to the long breakers of a retired Medi terranean shore ; and the most enthusiastic explorers, Avho enter this classic sand-hole, are not accustomed to prolong their stay.

But the change that has lately occurred in the internal admi- SAID PACHA IN ENGLAND. 9 nistration of Egypt is, of course, an important consideration in the estimate of her progress. The familiar maxim among social economists, ' What one loses another gets,' is especially true when applied to nations ; and so out of the devastations of the American war arose that Avidely extended groAvth of cotton in Egypt, Avhich constitutes the basis of her new-born prosperity. When Said Pacha visited England in 1862, the work of refor mation had begun, and no one can forget how many and loud were the praises lavished on that Viceroy because of his so called enlightened views, and the spirit he was said to have infused into the dormant powers of his country. Even clerical bodies, in a mood somewhat broader than their wont, tendered the Prophet's representative in England their humble meed of admiration in addresses commenting on the religious liberty of his rule.

But subsequent events proved Said Pacha unworthy of the ovation. With so much fresh glitter on the surface, the fabric of his empire was still the old rotten sepulchre of slavery and oppression within. The industry of the country had been revived by means of forced labour, Avhereby thousands of poor fellahs were constantly being torn from their homes and families by the minions of the government. It turned out also that the state contracts for machinery and utensils Avere generally given out to favourites of the Viceroy, who did not scruple to take the opportunity of enriching themselves at the public expense. Under Ismail Pacha, the present ruler, this latter evil at least has been remedied ; and should he prove wise enough to relieve the peasantry of those oppressive taxes on land, stores, and [ch. THE THRESHOLD OF THE EAST. 10 cattle, Avhich have ever been the bane of Egyptian policy, no obstacle will remain to the rapid transformation of the country.

Steam ploughs and cotton gins for the land, and steam pumps together Avith fresh watercourses to expand the slimy overflow of the Nile, have of late years been multiplied Avith extraordinary rapidity, the Egyptian army itself having literally laid aside the SAvord for the ploughshare, and assisted to achieve a victory Avhose fruits are more valuable and enduring than the spoils of war. Cairo and Alexandria are already considerably improved. The railway system, too, has been vigorously de veloped ; and branches from the main lines between Alexandria, Cairo, and Suez, are gradually extending around. When it is added that ' the telegraph is now in operation on all the lines, and connects almost every village of importance in LoAver Egypt,' it Avill be seen that the Avork in progress involves the recon struction of the country on a hitherto unknoAvn basis of prosperity.

Hoav strange to think, that all this transformation should have arisen from the simple act of an Italian doctor, Avho, Avithin the last forty years, planted a handful of cotton seed in a garden near Baalbec ? An overwhelming interest attaches to that vast maritime achievement, regarding the ultimate success of which contra dictory opinions still continue to prevail. In any event Europe has realized the fact of an open passage to the Red Sea in spite of all prophecies to the contrary. We know also that this magnificent Avater channel through the Desert, connecting the seas of the northern and southern zones, although a novelty in these times, is not one in the Avorld's experience. History tells us that such a passage Avas attempted by Pharaoh Necho ; but there are evi- II.] A 'STREAM' OF COMMUNICATION. 11 dences of its formation by other rulers both before and after his time.

The work in our own day has been prosecuted with a vigour and persistence which the Pharaohs might have desired to emulate, and it may be added by an instrumentality not dis similar to theirs ; for till within the last few years the condition of the wretched subjects of the Pacha, employed under the direction of M. Lesseps, could scarcely be considered superior to that of the Egyptian bondsmen of old. The imposing character of the opening ceremony with its solemn services and stately splendours, and the actual navigation (although not without some mishaps) of the canal from sea to sea by a large fleet of vessels representing various nationalities, are the theme of to-day. On that memorable occasion Moslem and Christian, meeting face to face on the scene of their ancient strife, united in prayer for the divine blessing on a scheme designed for the Avelfare of mankind.

If the canal should prove sufficient, in the practical sense, for the navigation of such steamers as those of the Peninsular and Oriental and Messagerie Imperiale Companies, it can scarcely fail to attract almost immediately the great bulk of the passenger and fine goods traffic. Even if incapable in its present condition we may still hope that the mighty acquisition it offers will not be lost to the world ; for, should the necessity arise, civilized Europe Avould doubtless unite in completing a AA-ork calculated to abridge the passage to the East by thousands of miles. Not, however, that the new ocean patlnvay thus opened up will be all gain to the travelling public ; for Ave learn that the tolls and charges to be levied on a ship of 2,000 tons will amount to about 1,000/., and that the maximum authorized speed is five and a half knots per hour. [ch. THE THRESHOLD OF THE EAST. 12 By the ' neutrality' of the canal, I presume Ave are to under stand the exclusion of war-ships, and an open passage to the merchant service of all countries.

It is no doubt true, that barriers, hitherto considered insur mountable, still impede the Avay of human progress in Egypt. National greatness now-a-days can only be built on a healthy condition of the social system, and may be considered impracti cable in a country Avhose ruler is its landlord, and Avhere, above all, Avoman's part in life is ignored and herself enslaved. That false, miserable arrogance of manhood on the part of the mighty lords of Islam hangs a millstone round the neck of every country they inhabit, and clogs the steps alike of moral and material advancement. The creed of Mahomet is essentially more than a mere profession of faith. It is not the religion of peace but of aggression. The intoxicating delights of Paradise are not for those Mussulmans Avho, Avhile cherishing their OAvn belief, desire to live at peace Avith other men.

On the contrary, the Koran teaches that the highest exercise of faith is to make war against the unbeliever. It Avas on this point, indeed, that the far-reaching imagination of the Prophet himself ran Avildest. He declared ' the SAvord ' to be ' the key of Paradise and Hell,' and promised the choicest treasures of immortality, including ' 72 Avives of the girls of Paradise, together Avith 80,000 servants, bearing every day 300 new dishes, and 300 fresh varieties of Avine ' — not to those Avho cultivated the arts of industry and the spirit of forbearance, but to those avIio fought and fell in battle Avith the Infidel ! Yet Ave also know, that although deeply rooted in the strata of past centuries, and still to some extent cleaving to its native soil, this gigantic growth of human folly and fanaticism has to all appearance begun to Avither and decay.

H.] INTERN A TIONAL COUR TESIES. 13 At last, and in our own times, the East and the West, discarding the passions and prejudices of ages, have met and interchanged assurances of friendship. That remarkable alliance, which has scarcely yet passed into European history, was inaugurated at Paris in the summer of 1867, when, among the potentates Avho visited the French Exhibition and partook of the Emperor's hospitality, appeared the Sultan Abdul Aziz — a very great monarch indeed — not through wealth of state, or strength of armies, but as ruler over 25,000,000 of men, and spiritual chief of 140,000,000 besides, Avhose lives and Avorship are regulated by the injunctions of the Koran. The circumstances, apart from prospective results, connected with the Sultan's presence in London now form an attractive page in English story.

A peculiar significance undoubtedly belonged to the arrival on our shores of the grand Padishah, ruler of the Ottomans, successor of those Mahomets and Solymans whose policy it had ever been to shun such intercourse, and who were so long the terror and the scourge of Christendom. It Avas then observed by the ' Times ' neAvspaper, that throughout the four centuries elapsed since the Ottoman conquest, no other Turkish Padishah had crossed the boundary of his own country except in the capacity of an invader, nor had any Christian sovereign beheld the city of Constantinople. Already the latter remarkable statement can hardly be said to hold good, for the Prince and Princess of Wales and the French Empress have very recently seen the spires and paced the mosques of the Turkish capital. But bewildering, even now, to every Mussulman of the old school must be the fact that, had he been in England in July, 1867, his OAvn eyes might have beheld the Turkish ensign streaming in neighbourly proximity to the British flag ; or, more mar- [ch. THE THRESHOLD OF THE EAST. 14 vellous and revolutionary still, the crescent of Islam floating over Buckingham Palace, to celebrate no other victory than the triumph of friendship and good will !

Nor Avas the expression of that feeling confined even to such emblems as these. The language of the Sultan at Guildhall very amply confirmed their import, and is, I think, worth recalling at this time. ' I have,' said he, ' two objects in vieAv in visiting this and other parts of Europe ; one, to see in these centres of civilization Avhat still remains to be done in my own country to complete the Avork we have begun ; the other, to shoAv my desire to establish, not only among my OAvn subjects, but betAveen my people and the other nations of Europe, that feeling of brotherhood Avhich is the foundation of human progress and the glory of our age.' That the Viceroy of Egypt should have appeared on the same occasion, and again, recently, in London, for the purpose of expressing the like vieAvs, and of cultivating the friendly inter course now existing betAveen his country and our OAvn, must be regarded as an incident of great practical value to both.