Narrative of various Journeys in Balochistan, Afghanistan, and the Punjab; including a residence in those countries from 1826 to 1838

Front matter

NARRATIVE OF VARIOUS JOURNEYS IN BALOCHISTAN, AFGHANISTAN, AND THE PANJAB. London : Printed by S. & J. Bentley, Wilson, and Fley, Bangor House, Shoe Lane. VIEW os KALAT, Capital of BALOCHISTAN I om-H :,.-, R.d-iarJ P^ntlcy. N * » B u r I 1 ngc-dn Sfer..t I ft 4- NARRATIVE OF VARIOUS JOURNEYS IN BALOCHISTAN, AFGHANISTAN, AND THE PANJAB ; INCLUDING A RESIDENCE IN THOSE COUNTRIES FROM 1826 to 1838. BY CHARLES MASSON, ESQ. IN THREE VOLUMES. VOL. II. LONDON: RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STREET, ■Publutyrr tn ©rUtnarg to ffier *Plajcjfti>. 1842. PAGE I I CONTENTS OF THE SECOND VOLUME.

Chapter I

Sea trips. — Major David AVilson. — Preparations of papers. — Use made of them. — Remarks. — Tabrez. — Sir John Campbell. — Society of Tabrez. — Bagdad. — Karak. — Maskat. — Parting with Captain Willock. — Approach to Karachi. — Lock-jaw. — Skill of Naqudah. — Dunghis. — Untoward reception at Karachi. — Cause thereof. — Re cognition. — Refused permission to land. — Guards. — How disposed of. — Disarrangement of plans. — Orders of the Amirs. — Their political jealousy. — Their silly notions. — Departure from Karachi. — Arrival at Ormara. — Present from the governor. — Introduction to him. — His invitation. — Quarters. — The Naqudah's precautions. — Disease of the governor. — Decline of my repute as a physician. — Baloch Khan's suggestion. — Employment. — Ormara friends. — Ex cursions. — Discretion necessary. — Feu-de-joie and accident. — Ba loch Khan's proposal. — Ancient site. — Opposition to my departure. — Mistrust of Baloch Khan's intention. — His son's reserve. — Leave Ormara. — Boldness of Naqudah. — Reach Sunmiani. — Practice of Medicine. — Singular case. — Acquaintance. — The young Jam. — His court and officers. — The lady dhai. — Her wish and delicacy. — Ar rangement. — Introduction. — Portrait taken. — Bad state of health. — Project. — Kalat merchants. ....

Chapter II

Facility of forming acquaintance. — Merchant's surprise. — My metamorphosis. — Exchange of salutations. — Conversation. — Reso lution. — Assurance of protection. — Kalikdad. — Hindu civility. — CONTENTS. VI PAGE 21 40 Composition of party. — Leave Sunmiani. — Liars. — Country. — Patti. — Usman di Got.— Neighbourhood of B£la. — Appearance of Bela. — Jam's residence. — Tombs. — Advance of party. — Goodwill of Kalik dad. — His anxiety. — Departure from Bela. — Mishap on road. — Return of Kalikdad. — Arrival at AValipat. — Kalikdad rejoins. — Walipat. — Purali. — Remarkable burial-place. — Hills. — Scenery. — Koharn AVat.— Ping. — Halt in the hills. — Trees. — Samshir Khan. — Baloches. — Kalikdad's greetings. — Meeting with our party. — Troublesome night-march. — Ornatch river. — Turkabiir. — Hills, &c. — AA'ater. — Visitors. — Storm. — Baran Lak. — Burial-places. — Wad. — Kairat. —Population of AArad. — Sirdars. — Plain of AVad. — Nail. — Its reputed antiquity. .....

Chapter III

Saman dara. — Mian dara. — Khozdar. — Scenery. — Town. — Gar dens. — Lead-mines. — Khappar. — Zidi. — Advantageous site of Khoz dar. — Antiquity. — Vestiges. — Shower. — Obelisk. — Baghwan. — Terk. — Chiefs. — Change in temperature. — Lakorian. — Anjira. — Gohar Basta. — Oleanders. — Sohrab. — Road to Kalat. — Surma Sing. — Damb. — Rodinjoh. — Sheher Kiiki. — Recourse to the toilette. — Approach to Kalat. — Met by friends. — View of Kalat. — Distant prospect. — Faiz Ahmed — His respectability and notions of me — His political acumen. — Haji Abdulah. — Kalikdad. — Abdul Hab. — Ab dul AVahad. — Mehrab Khan's absence, and designs. — Darogah Gul Mahomed. — Indifferent health. — Occupations. — Propose to visit Chehel Tan. ......

Chapter IV

Departure from Kalat. — Tomb. — Baba AVali. — Villages. — Mal gozar. — Ziarat. — Ghiddaran. — Kar<=z Garam. — Baloch family. — Re past. — Shepherd's bounty. — Baloch — His intentions — Abandons them. — Ghwen-trees. — Mangarchar. — Baloch hospitality. — Plain of Mangarchar. — Ambar. — Kur. — Toman. — Civil welcome. — Fati Ma homed. — AVounded man. — Brahui gratitude. — Dhai Bfbu's °*arden. — Hindu dwelling. — Zard. — Hindu's hospitality — His rivalry in generosity. — Kenitti. — Gul Mahomed's pious offices. — Contorted hills. — Flowering plants. — Fine view. — Ab-Chotoh. — Yellow ochre. — Hills of Khad. — Disagreeable night. — Sir-i-ab. — Illaiyar Khan. Reception. — Shadi Khan. — His wounded relative. — Fray. Baloch CONTENTS.

VII TAGE 5S obligations. — Gardens. — Tombs. — Mastung. — Chammari. — Farewell to Shadi Khan.— Mir-Ghar. — Mahomed Khan.— Tiri.— Shekh Langhow. — Gul Mahomed's relatives. — Shame" Zai. — Gul Mahomed's residence. — Kairat. — Sultry weather. — Toman. — Society. — Preparatory measures. — Apprehensions. — Start for Chehel Tan. — Ascent. — Difficulties. — Surmount them. — Halting-place. — Baloch repast — Its excellence. — Bonfires. — Farther progress. — Ascent of peak. — Ziarat. — Discontent of party. — Extensive view. — Dasht-bidowlat. — Hill ranges. — Koh Dohji. — Peak in Kharan. — Brahui panic. — Return.. — Memorials of visit. — Descent. — Fossil shells — Their varieties. — Separation of party. — Water. — Gul Mahomed's vigilance. — Quick perception. — Discharge of pieces — The object. — Defile. — Pallez. — Animals and plants of Chehel Tan. — Variations of temperature. — Zones. — Enthusiasm of Brahuis. — Altitude of Chehel Tan. — Snow. — Peaks. — View. — Facilities for survey. — Ziarat of Chehel Tan. — Legend. — Hazrat Ghous. — His benediction. — Brahui credulity. — Juvenile commemoration. — Announced return to Kalat. . . . .

Chapter V

Departure from Khanak. — Spin Bolendi. — Kenitti. — Brahui custom. — Mangarchar. — Karez. — Toman. — Credulity. — Ancient dambs. — Chappar. — Ziarat. — Arrival at Kalat. — Dm Mahomed Khan — His pursuits — His amusing anger — His request. — Shahzada Haji Firozdin — His boasting. — Reception at Kandahar — His fate. — Khan of Kalat's conversations — His judgment of me. — Of Feringhi power. — Abdul Rahman's story. — Fatality at Kalat. — Dhai Bibii. — Entertainment. — Visit to Dhai Bibii — Her wishes — Indulgence in opium. — Laudanum — Arrival of Mehrab Khan. — Approach of winter. — Prepare to leave Kalat. — Kalat. — Miri — Bazar — Suburbs — Neighbourhood — Royal sepulchres — Inhabitants. — Eastern Balochistan. — Parallel. — Nassir Khan — His prosperous rule. — Taimur Shah. — Mahmud Khan. — Zeman Shah. — Mehrab Khan. — Daoud Mahomed. — Disgust of tribes. — Confusion in the country. — Rebel lious tribes. — Observance of treaties. — Forbearance of the Kalat Khan. — Their delicate policy. — Enmity of Kandahar Sirdars — Disliked by Mehrab Khan. — Their expedition to Balochistan. — Seize Quetta. — Besiege Mastung. — Negotiate a treaty. — Terms. ■ — Harand and Dajil. — Saiyad Mahomed Sharif — Replaced by Khodadad. — Flies to Bahawalpur. — Khodadad calls in the Sikhs.

CONTENTS. PAGE —They occupy Harand and Dajil.— Extent of Mehrab Khan's rule —His revenue.— Military force.— Khanazadas— Levies.— Artillery. —Subjects.— Brahui tribes.— Produce of country.— Of Kachi.— Trade and merchants.— Base coinage.— Mehrab Khan— His charac ter.—Mir Azem Khan.— Shah Nawaz and Fati Khan— Their treatment. — Mehrab Khan's lenity. . 86

Chapter VI

Departure from Kalat.— Takht Badshah.— Miilla Izzat.—Rodin joh. — Gandarghen. — Rudeness of camel-drivers. — Sohrab. — The khan's uncle. — Burial-places. — Anjira. — Bopoh. — Sources of the Mulloh river. — Singular stratification. — Goram Bawat. — Shakargaz, or sweet tamarisk. — P^shtar Khan. — Lichens. — Do Dandan. — Janghi Kiishta. — Pir Lakka. — Ghuznavi Haji. — Kil. — No Lang. — River fords. — Ancient fort.— The Mulloh river. — Pir Chatta. — The Miilloh pass. — Security. — Risk from swollen torrents. — Inhabitants. — Produce. — Considered in military point of view. — Extent. — Jell. — Arrival of Kalikdad. — Kandahar kafila. — Duties. — Collectors. — Amount. — Frauds of the merchants. — Entertainment — Polite request. — Town of Jell. — Groves. — Tombs. — Soil and produce. — The Magghassis. — Divisions. — Feud with the Rinds. — Ahmed Khan — His character. — Dissipation — Jet cultivators. — Tiinia. — Sannatar. — Hobaras — Kah Shutar. — Sulphurous spring. — Kichi. — Shadia. — Pat. — Apprehensions. — Rinds — Their excursions. — Composure regained. — Obelisks. — Machulik. — Dera Ghaibi. — AVali Mahomed. — The Chandi tribe. — Services to the Talpuris. — Haji Bijar. — Unreasonable expectations. — Parsimony of the Talpuris. — Poverty of the Chandis. — AVali Mahomed's victories — His aid implored by Ahmed Khan. — His hostility to the Rinds — Repri manded by the nawab vazir. — Canal. — Absence of Wali Mahomed. 110

Chapter VII

Amil. — Panic of Hindus. — Got Ghai. — Feridabad. — Wild melons. — Got Hussen. — Giimbaz Borah. — Site of Vrij. — Ziarat Mir Nassir Mahomed. — Tombs. — Evening solemnities. — Gaj rivulet. — Route to Khozdar. — Kalikdad's sale. — Musical Guide. — Jiii. — BahawalKhan. — Jamali tribe. — Increase of water. — Penalties on Hindus. — Chinni. — Tombs and ziarats. — Low state of religion. — Shrine worship. — CONTENTS. IX PAGE Bubak. — Repute of Trenni. — Dog stolen. — Baloch Got. — Villages near Sehwan. — Diwiin Sangat's entertainment. — Old fort of Sehwan. — Mound.— Reliques. — Their purport. — Conjectures. — Modern buildings. — Lall Shah Baz. — Illustrious pilgrims. — Establishments. — Re venues. — Rindistan. — Mini Khan. — Recognition. — Venal collectors. — Inflexible saiyad. — Fees. — Garm-ab. — Fossils. — Hot springs. — Their character. — Sulphur mines. — Rude remains. — Tanda Mahi. — Got Hindii. — Reappearance of Saiyad. — Fresh claims. — Malgari. — Gohar Basta. — Pokar.— Cones. — Wad Dera. — Kalikdad's fraud. — Do Rah. — Tanah. — Bulfuts. — Namadis — Kafila arrangements. — Bulfut honesty. — Their country. — Remarkable Gohar Basta. — Its construction. — Lumris. — Dagghar-di-Got. — Arrangements. — Cere mony. — Bulfut civility. — Hindii prayers. — Perarii. — Bulfut indulgence. — Baloch family. — Opium-pills. — Hab river. — Suspicious people. — Credulous Baloches. — Inquiries and predictions. — Huts. — Sunmiani. — Bulfut choice and reward. .... 133

Chapter VIII

Residence at Siinmfani. — Departure. — Theft at Sh£kh-ka-raj. — Utah — Osman-di-Got. — Bela. — Murder of Mogal Merchant.—Con ference. — Slaughter of Minghal and Biziinju chiefs. — Permission to levy duties. — Lawless state. — Prohibition to kafilas. — Haji Gul Ma homed's disregard of prohibition. — Kafila. — Mirza Isak. — Saiyads. — Merchants. — Badragars. — Deception. — Incident. — Compromise. — Departure from Bela. — Robbers. — Baran Lak. — Wali Mahomed. — His remonstrances — His high feeling — His good offices — His liberality — His fate. — Isa Khan. — Biziinju chief. — Fortune of kafila. — Kaia Dara. — Plain of AVad. — Benefit of badragars. — Hill people. — Khozdar. — Attempt at imposture. — Sohrab. — Rodinjoh. — Kalat. — Reject invitation to stay. — Mangarchar. — Shehidan. — Baloches. — Trick played them. — Their anger. — Khwoja Amran hills. — Plants. — Wild tulips. — Shorawak. — Kilia Mir Alam Khan. — Passes. — Tribes. — Villages. — Borders. — Arrival of Baloches. — Their mission. — Reply of the Afghans. — Canals. — Hissarghii. — Atchak Zai. — Harir. — Chajar. — Karez Illaiyar. — Atchak Zai travellers. — Appli cation for duty. — Robbery in mistake. — Simplicity of Mama's ser vants. — Takht Pul. — Saline marsh. — Argasan. — Khush-ab. — Tomb of Pahindar Khan. — Kandahar. — Recognition — Consequences. — Expedition to Darawat. — Escape of Mir Alam Khan's son. — Fears of Sirdars. — Results of the expedition. — Arrange to leave Kandahar.

CONTENTS. X PAGE 1C4 194 — Climate.— Death of Fiir Dil Khan.— Abbas Mi'rza's envoy.—In solent letter. — Envoy's presumption. — His treatment. — Reports and rumours. — Unpopularity and dissensions of the sirdars. — Mehu Dil Khan's hypocrisy. ......

Chapter IX

Cordial reception. — Ghulam Mahomed's temerity. — Shir Dil Khan's daughters. — Leave Kandahar. — Tarnak river. — Sheher Safar. — Tirandaz. — Jeldak. — Ghiljis in revolt. — Quarrelsome visitors. — Hostile indications. — Explanation. — March of kafila. — Kilia Ramazan Ohtak. — Visit from Fati Khan.— Ghowar. — Fati Khan — His exactions. — Halt. — Design of Kilia Ramazan Khan. — Message from Shahabadin Khan. — Lodin. — Old fortress. — Ghilji iljari. — Shahabadin Khan — His appearance and costume — His abode at Khaka. — Duties. — Their rigid exaction. — Ghilji tribes. — Ohtaks. — Thokis.— Abubekr KheL — Terekis — Cultivation of the Thokis. — Aspect of country. — Character of tribes. — Their justification. — Turki origin. — Ferishta's notice. — Ghilji conquests. — Opposition to Nadir Shah. — Hiiss^n Khan. — Abdul Rehman. — Religious tradition. — Shahabadin Khan's fame — His recent moderation — His sons — Aversion to Diiranis — His pious remarks. — Khaka. — Military force. — Numbers. — Arms. — Shahabadin Khan's policy. — Murder of his son. — Absolution of the murderers. — Suliman Khel. — Dost Ma.v homed Khan's scruples. — Precautions. — Preparations to march. — Curious scene. — Fruitless expostulation. — Infant Robber. — Valley of Tarnak. — Osman Ganni. — False alarm. — Quarrel. — Territory of Ghazni. — Shehidan. — Mokar. — Baffled robbers. — Sir Chishma. — Rivulet. — Obo. — Karabagh. — Hazaras. — Giilistan Khan. — Nani. — Ghazni. — Town and bazar. — Citadel. — Traditions. — Rozah and shrine of Sultan Mahomed. — Columns. — Walls. — Gates. — Situation of tow*n. — Artillery. — Fruits. — Revenue. — AVilford's conjectures. — Gardez and Patan. — Topes. — Sheher Kurghan. — Ghar Sama Niika. — Lora. — Wardak. — Takia. — River of Loghar. — Shekhabad. — Maidan. — River of Kabal. — Arghandi. — Kilia Kazil. — Chehel Tan. —Kilia Topchi Bashi. — Friendly greetings. — Baber's tomb. — Ap proach to Kabal. — Serai Zirdad. — Quarters in Balla Hissar .

Chapter X

European visitors.— Dr. AVolf's prediction. — Jang Shia and Siini. — Dost Mahomed Khan's fears. — Prophecy and delusion. Delica cies of Kabal. — Rawash. — Chukri. — Cherries. — Mulberries. CONTENTS. XI PAGE Grapes. — Peaches. — Melons. — Their cultivation. — Profusion of fruits.— Ice.— Snow. — Takht Shah. — Khana Sanghi.— Glens.— Antiquities.— Ziarats.— Sang Nawishta.— Topes.— Sanjitak.— Shah Mahmud's revels and adventure. — Shahzada Ismael's fate.— Baber's tomb.— Masjit. — Grove.— Distribution.— Tank. — Trees and flowers.— Rana Zeba.— Hawthorns.— Weekly fair.— Serai.— Reflections.— Takht Jan Nissar Khan.— Hospitality.— Accidental interruption. — Liberality of sentiment. — Anecdote of Fati Khan. —Religious laxity.— Restriction at Bokhara. — Equality of Ar menians. — Their intercourse with Mahomedans. — Liberal remark. —Indulgences.— Jews. — Charge of blasphemy.— Punishment.— Reflections. 229

Chapter XI

Situation of Kabal. — Fortifications. — Balla Hissar. — Defences. — Biirj Hiilakii. — Value of defences. — Citadels. — Balla Hissar Balla. — Kiila Feringhi. — Prohibition. — Marble thrones. — Balla Hissar Balla originally a cemetery. — Discoveries. — Wells. — Gates. — Balla Hissar Pahin. — Regulations. — Mallas. — Police. — Gates. — Dasta Khana. — Tope Khana. — Palace. — Masjit Padshah. — Anecdote of Taimur Shah. — City walls. — Gates. — Chandol. — AValls. — Population. — Aspect of city. — Habib Ulah Khan's freak. — Construction of houses. — Mallas and kuchas. — Their object and inconveniences. — Public buildings. — Serais. — Hamans. — Bridges. — Bazars. — Shops. Trades. — Markets. — Itinerant traders and cries. — Provisions. — Variable prices. — Famines. — Mode of preventing pressure on supplies. — Enjoyments of winter season. — Sandalis. — Inconveniences. — Economy.— Chimneys. — Flues. — Burial-places. — Inscription. — Mahomedan tombs. — Shia tombs. — Grave-stones. — Englishman's grave. — Belief respecting it. — Removal of grave-stones. — Customs observed at burial-places. — Processions. — Takias. — Ziarats. — Rock impressions. — Gardens. — Namaz Gah. — Bagh Taimur Shah. — Bagh Shah Zeman. — Bagh Vazir. — Chahar Bagh. — Taimur Shah's tomb. — Bagh Khwoja. — Gardens of Deh Afghan. — River. — Jui Shir. — Balla Jui. — Jui Pul Mastan. — Wells. — Quality of water. — Abundance. — Meadows. — Bogs. — Causes of fever. — Site of Kabal.

Agreeable vicinity. — Winds. — Whirlwinds. — Commercial importance. — Domestic trade. — Manufactures. — Wants of the community. — Artisans and fabrics. — State of progression. . CONTENTS. PAGE 292

Chapter XII

Introduction to Haji Khan. — His conversation. — His proposal. — Delay in the Khan's movements. — His letter from Bisut.— Sirkerder Kamber. — Bisut. — Mir Yezdanbaksh. — Defeat of Mir Abbas. — De cisive authority. — Reputation. — Nadir's policy. — Persian tribes in Kabal. — Their influence. — Religious differences and contests. — Pre cautions of the Shias. — Power in Bisiit.— Humbled by Mir Yezdan baksh. — Elevation of Dost Mahomed Khan. — Mistrust of Dost Ma homed Khan. — His fears of Mir Yezdanbaksh.— Plots his destruc tion. — Invites him to Kabal. — Counsel of the Mir's wife. — Seizure of Mir Yezdanbaksh. — Ransom offered. — Escape of Mir Yezdan baksh. — Rebuke to Dost Mahomed Khan.— Escape of the Mir's wife. — Pursuit. — Perplexity of pursuers. — Mir Yezdanbaksh in creases his power. — Bisiit tribute. — Carriage of Mir Yezdanbaksh.

Karzar. — Defences. — Site. — Invasion of Shekh Ali tribe. — Haji Khan. — His jaghir. — Afghan territories in Turkistan. — Tajik and Tatar chiefs. — Their policy. — Mahomed Ali Beg. — His forays. — Haji Khan's designs. — Baffled by Mahomed Ali Beg. — Haji Khan courts Mir Yezdanbaksh. — His artful conduct. — Mir Yezdanbaksh deceived. — Naib Rehimdad. — Gained over by Mahomed Ali Beg. — Plans of Mir Yezdanbaksh. — Apprehensions of Mahomed Ali Beg. — His overtures to Haji Khan. — Mir Yezdanbaksh's measures. — In vades Bamian. — His successes. — Fear of Dost Mahomed Khan. — Taghow expedition. — Haji Khan's dexterity. — His engagements and oaths. — Haji Khan visits Bisiit. — His liberality. — Movements of Mir Yezdanbaksh. — Haji Khan farms Bisiit tribute. — His renewed oaths. — Earthquake. — Religious strife. — Haji Khan's hopes. — Ar rangements. — Jealousy between Dost Mahomed Khan and Haji Khan. — Value of Haji Khan's jaghir. — His troops. — His rude countrymen. — Dost Mahomed Khan's suspicions. — Haji Khan's in trigues. — Mission from Kunduz. — Supposed object. — Results. — Ru mours. — Haji Khan's departure for Bisiit.— His progress. — His in terview with Mir Yezdanbaksh. — Auspicious commencement of expedition. — Haji Khan's ultimate views.— His brothers. — Despatch of troops against Seghan.

Chapter XIII

Departure from Kabal.— Arghandi.— Kotal Khak Safed.— Jellez. —Villages and castles. — Scuffle at Hazara castle.— Tirkhana.— Honai.— Message from Shah Abbas Khan.— Joined by him.— Ha- CONTENTS. XIII PAGE zara party. — Chokidars. — Kirghu. — Our reception. — A'iolence of Afghan horsemen. — Hospitality of Hazaras. — Koh Baba. — River Helmand. — Appearance of Koh Baba. — Ghowch Khol. — Ab Dila war. — Kotal Sang Surakh.. — Bad Assiah. — Ziarat. — Altercation with Hazaras. — Conduct of Shah Abbas Khan. — Disputes amongst Hazaras. — Results. — Distress of Hazaras. — Their hospitable offices rejected. — Stratagem. — Hazara repast and Afghan delicacv.—De parture. — Eye medicine. — Doubtful roads. — Joined by Shah Abbas Khan. — Vakil Shaifi's castle. — Immense grave. — Fear of women. — Arrival in camp. — Meeting with Haji Khan. — Quarters. — Compa nions. — Evening repast. — Fare. — Haji Khan's conversation. — His humble pretensions. — His vaunts of liberality. — His avowal of his intentions. — His counsels to Dost Mahomed Khan. — Approbation of his auditors. — Diwal Khol. — Mir Ali Khan. — Composition of Haji Khan's force. — Hazara force. — Dependents on Haji Khan. — Camp arrangements. — Notice to march. — Order of march. — Taking up ground. — Foragers. — Evening invocation. — Prayers. — Majlis. — Guests. — Entertainment. — Termination of the majlis. 324

Chapter XIV

March to Shaitana. — Halt and negotiations. — Hazara custom. — Evening majlis. — Fatiha. — Hindustan Haji. — His loquacity. — Dar mirdighan. — Sang Nishandeh. — The Khan's guns. — Treatment of Hazaras. — Their consolation. — A'akil Shaffi. — The Khan's delight. — Hazara Saiyad. — His learning. — Azdha. — A natural curiosity. — Hazara belief. — Composition of rock. — Tepid springs. — Volcanic products. — Azdha of Bamian. — Ziarat. — Rock impressions. — Sources of Loghar river. — Subterranean passage. — Revelations by the Khan. — Missions from Mahomed Ali Beg and from Shibrghan. — Transactions at Seghan. — Mir Wais's introduction. — Guests. — The Khan's declamation. — Mir AVais's replies. — The Khan's elevated style. — Humility of Mir Wais. — The Khan's interrogation. — Reply of Mir AVais. — The Khan boasts his liberality. — Mir AArais implores his protection. — Fatiha. — Mission from Khairpiir. — Miilla Jehan Mahomed. — The Khan's vaunts. — Sindian presents. — Death of Khan's brother. — Fall of snow. — Hazara prognostications. — Ziarat Tatar AVali. — Ghirii Maini. — Depredations of the troops. — Indispo sition ofthe Khan. — Tribute from Jirgai and Burjehgai. — Khelats.

CONTENTS. PAGE 352 382 Expedients. — Site of Ghirii Maini. — Retrograde march. — Quagmire. — Wujai.— Bad Assiah.— Ghowch Khol. — Cold and ice. — Forethought of Mir Yezdanbaksh. — Results of campaign. — Increase of revenue. — Confidence inspired. — Advantages of expedition. — Benefits to the chief. — Peshkash presents. — Gain to the Khan. — Service rendered. — Pleasing anticipations. — View ofthe Khan's projects. — Mir Yezdanbaksh. — His customs and dress. — Singular appearance. — March towards Bamian. — Kotal Siah Regh. — Splendid views. — Mir Yezdanbaksh visits Karzar. — Kalii. — Inclement season. — Mir Zaffar. — Kotal Haft Pailan. — Magnificent prospect. — Topchi. — Ahinghar. — Caves. — Ghiilghiileh. — Entry of Khan into Bamian. — Premature winter. — Arrivals from Seghan. — Mahomed Hassan. — Miilla Shahabadin's treaty. — Dismissal of Seghanchis.

Chapter XV

Colonel Tod's observations on Bamian. — Opportunities of exami nation. — Inscription. — Memoir. — Idols and caves. — Testimony of Abiil Fazil. — Conjecture on idols. — Biiddhist temples and idols in Salsette. — Analogy with Bamian idols. — Paintings. — Parthian coins. — Conclusion and influences. — Antiquity of Kaian dynasty. — Curious coincidence. — Towers. — The Castle of Zohak. — Construc tion. — Probable nature. — Remains of Ghulghuleh. — The citadel. — Buildings. — Discoveries. — Defences. — Site of city. — Solemnity of scene. — Emotions. — Effect of winds. — Alexandria ad Caucasum.

Chapter XVI

March from Bamian. — Siirkhdar. — Azdha. — Ak-Robat. — Kotal Ak-Robat. — Noh Regh. — Mahomed Ali Beg's sons. Their dismissal. — Arrival of Mahomed Ali Beg. — Kilia Sir Sano*. Fall of snow.— Supplies.— Mahomed Ali Beg.— The khan's conference- Pertinacity of Hazara chiefs.— Despatch of Sadadin. — Exchange of presents. — Mission from Tatar chiefs. — Their language. Ano-er of khan. — Rahmatulah Beg's agent.— The khan's professions.— Rahmatulah Beg. — His festive habits. — Killich Ali Beo-'s generosity.—Marriage of the khan. — His ill-humour. — Reason for it. Arrival of the khan's brothers. — Guns. — Suspicions of Hazaras. Flight of Mir Baz Ali.— Detachment against Kahmerd.— March to CONTENTS.

XV PAGt 394 base of Kotal Nal-patch.— Kilia Kafr.— Salute of artillery.— Kilia Khowja. — Noon repast. — Guests.— The khan's discourse on Fe ringhis. — History of Amir Khan. — Mahomed Azem Khan's prayer. — Revenue of Kabal, &c. — Mir Yezdanbaksh's opinion of cholera. — Case of an old physician. — Reconnoissance. — Tatar movements. — Return to camp. — Levee. — Mir Yezdanbaksh seized. — Plunder of Hazara camp. — Hazara flight and pursuit. — Lamentable condition of the prisoners. — The khan's precautions. — Seizure at Ak-Robat. — The khan's remark. — Justifies himself to the Ghulam Khana. — Im putes treachery to Mir Yezdanbaksh. — Retrograde march to Kilia Sir Sang. — Hazara prisoners. — Reverse of fortune. — Indignation of the camp. — Mahomed Jaffar Khan's remark. — The khan's solicitude. — Resolution of Mir Yezdanbaksh. — Enormity of seizure. — Sorrow of Sadadin. — Mir Yezdanbaksh's intentions. — Refined cruelty. — The khan's objects. — Danger of short supplies. — News from Kahmerd. — Introduction of Ajer chief. — The khan's visit to Mir Yezdanbaksh, and his proposals. — Hazaras intercepted by Ma homed Ali Beg. — The mir placed in irons. — Meteors. — March to wards Bamian. — Search for plunder. — Hazara captives. — Ak-Robat. — Surkhdar. — Arrival at Bamian. ....

Chapter XVII

Imposition of fines. — Saiyadabad. — Alladad Khan — Evacuation of Saiyadabad. — Its solidity and dimensions. — Tradition. — Anti quity. — Repaired by Mirza Mahomed Ali. — Siege by Killich Ali Beg. — Death of Mirza Mahomed Ali. — Independence of Alladad Khan. — The khan's piety. — Provender. — Quarters. — Letters of Mir Yezdanbaksh. — Release of Mahomed Gul. — His vows. — Plunder of party from Kabal. — Distress in camp. — Uneasiness of Ghulam Khana troops. — Despair of inhabitants of Bamian. — Orders for the execution of Mir Yezdanbaksh. — The mir informed of them. — His prayers.— His execution. — His firmness admired. — Message from Mahomed Morad Beg. — Departure of Ghiilam Khana troops. — Their difficulties at Karzar. — Terms of passage. — Loss of lives and acci dents. — Arrivals from Kahmerd. — Mahomed Ali Beg's suggestion. — Advice of Lohani merchants. — The khan extorts money from them. — The khan's brothers obtain permission to depart. — Mine also received. — Departure from Bamian. — Uncertainty as to route. — Reach Ahinghar. — Kotal Slniter Girdan. — Mori. — Difficult road. — CONTENTS.

PAGE 423 453 Kalii. — Mihman Khana. — My repulse. — Passage of rivulet. — Good quarters. — Khan's letter. — Bridle purloined. — Topchi. — Shaghassi Om£d. — Quarters. — Pleasant evening. — Bridle restored. — Compa nions. — March to Bitchilik. — Kotal of Irak. — A'iolent winds. — Castles of Irak. — Consternation of people. — Our reception. — Con duct of my companions. — The khan's agent and his instructions. — Robbery of a Hindii. — Intentions of my companions. — Their thefts. — Dexterity. — Detection. — Bubulak. — Desertion of guide. — Bitchi lik. — Castle of Saiyad Shah Abbas. — Sh£kh All's refuse a passage. — Proceed to Shibr. — Reception. — Farther thefts prevented. — Coun cil. — Independence of Hazaras. — Return to Bubulak. — Regain Ba mian. ........

Chapter XVIII

Proposal of the Hazaras. — Surrender of Karzar. — Proceedings of the khan's brothers. — Introduction of Saiyad Shah Abbas. — Fine imposed. — Destruction of his castle. — Fresh departure from Bamian. — Accident on the road. — Indifference of horsemen. — The khan's conference with Jehandad Khan. — Arrival at Kalii. — Khan Ma homed Khan. — His quarters. — Distressed Hazaras. — Hajikak. — Castle of Karzar. — Unpleasant situation. — Castles. — Admittance refused. — Vain assault. — Final arrangement. — Good quarters. — River Helmand. — Yurt. — Honai. — Castles of Ismael Khan. — Vio lence and altercation. — Robbery. — Admission to castle. — Apology and repast. — Terrific wind. — Its effects. — Enter village. — Reception. — Halt. — Progress to Kabal. — Arrival. JOURNEYS IN BALOCHISTAN, AFGHANISTAN, AND THE PAN J AB.

Chapter I

Sea trips. — Major David Wilson. — Preparation of papers. — Use made of them. — Remarks. — Tabrez. — Sir John Campbell. — Society of Tabrez. — Bagdad. — Karak. — Maskat. — Parting with Captain Willock. — Approach to Karachi. — Lock-jaw. — Skill of Naqudah. — Dunghis. — Untoward reception at Karachi. — Cause thereof. — Recognition. — Refused permission to land. — Guards. — How disposed of. — Disarrangement of plans. — Orders of the Amirs Their political jealousy. — Their silly notions. — Departure from Karachi. — Arrival at Ormara. — Present from the governor. — Introduction to him. — His invitation. — Quarters. — The Naqudah' s precautions.— Disease of the governor. — Decline of my repute as a physician. — Baloch Khan's suggestion. — Employment. — Ormara friends Excursions. — Discretion necessary. — Feu-de-joie and accident. — Baloch Khan's proposal. — Ancient site. — Opposition to my departure. — Mistrust of Baloch Khan's intention. — His son's reserve. — Leave Ormara. — Boldness of Naqudah. — Reach Sunmiani. — Practice of medicine. — Singular case. — Acquaintance. — The young Jam. — His court and officers. — The lady dhai. — Her wish and delicacy Arrangement. — Introduction. — Portrait taken. — Bad state of health. — Project. — Kalat merchants.

From Karachi I crossed the sea in a dunghi to Maskat, and thence, in an Arab bagala, sailed VOL. II. b PAPERS. for Kishm, in the Persian Gulf, Avhen, crossing the island, I reached Bassador, then an English station, Avhere I was cordially welcomed by the few of my countrymen residing there. A cruiser of the Honourable Company some time after touching, the politeness of her officers gave me the opportunity of proceeding to Bushir, where I continued for three or four months, under the hospitable roof of the late lamented Major David Wilson, at that time the resident; and a gentleman of a mind so superior, that to have possessed his friendship and esteem is a circumstance of which I shall never cease to be proud. I there drew up, from materials in my possession, and from recollection, a series of papers relating to my journeys, and the countries through Avhich I had passed, which were forwarded to the Government of Bombay, or to Sir John Malcolm, then the governor.