Front matter
GEOLOGICAL EXCURSIONS ROUND THE ISLE OE WIGHT. AND ALONG THE ADJACENT COAST OF DORSETSHIRE. LONnoN : PRINTED BT R. CLAY, BRTAD STREET HILL. GEOLOGICAL EXCURSIONS hODND THE ISLE OF WIGHT, AND ALOMG TBE ADJACENT COAST OF DORSETSHIRE ; ILIUSTRATIVH OF THE MOST INTERESTING GEOLOGICAL PHENOMENA, AND ORGANIC REMAINS. BY GIDEON ALGERNON LL.D. F.R.S. " AUTHOR OF "TMK MEDALS OF CREATION;" "thoughts on animalcules ," etc FOSSIL I.ORSrEil FROil ATHFEEIELD. " That beau'isiil Island, which he who once sees never forgets, through whatever part or the wide world his future path may lead him." Sin Walter Scott's Surgeon* Doug/Uer. SECOND EDITION, WITH IMPORTANT ADDITIONS. LONDON : HENRY G. BOHN, YORK STREET, COVENT GARDEN. MDCCCLI. TO Chester Square, LONJL'ON, TO HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS PRINCE ALBERT, AS A TESTIMONY OF ADMIRATION AND RESPECT FOE HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS'S LIBERAL ENCOURAGEMENT OF BRITISH SCIENCE AND ART, AND ARDENT SUPPORT OF EVERY ATTEMPT AMELIORATE THE CONDITION AND PROMOTE THE HAFPl.NESS OF THE HUMAN RACE, THESE UNPRETENDING PAGES ARE, BY PERMISSION, MOST RESPECTFULLY INSCRIBED, BY HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS'S HUMBLE AND DEVOTED SERVANT, GIDEON ALGERNON MANTELL.
ADVERTISEMENT.
TO THE SECOND EDITION. Although no effectual steps have yet been taken to establish in the Isle of Wight a public col lection of its natural productions, yet so many interesting fossils from various parts of the Island have been discovered and submitted to my exa mination, since the publication of the former edition of this volume, that I have reason to conclude my humble attempts to direct attention to the geological phenomena of the district have not been wholly fruitless. From the want of a local Museum, numerous valuable specimens have, however, been dispersed, and are now irretrievably lost to science ; jet the facts described in the Supplementary Chapter (page 421*) are sufficient proofs of the important VI11
Preface
. The Isle of Wight is described by Sir Walter Scott, as " that beautiful Island, which he who once sees, never forgets, through whatever part of the wide icorld his future path may lead him." And if this favoured spot deserve such an encomium from the Poet, and the ardent admirer of beautiful and picturesque scenery, it possesses stronger claims to the attention of the natural philosopher, for the strata of which it is composed, present phenomena of the highest interest, and abound in those " Medals of Creation?'' which elucidate some of the most important revolutions, recorded in the early pages of the earth's physical history. The geological characters of the Isle of Wight are well known to the scientific inquirer, through the labours and publications oi Sir Henry Englefield, Mr. Thomas Webster, and other able observers ; while the beautiful models of the stratification of preface. the Undercliff, and southern coast, constructed by Captain Ibbetson, and the collection of fossils accompanying them, which are exhibited in the Polytechnic Institution of London, afford an instructive exposition of the strata and organic remains of this interesting district.
But notwithstanding these admirable illustra tions, I may venture to affirm, that the Geology of the Island is but little known or regarded by the majority of the intelligent persons, who every season flock by thousands to its shores, and rapidly traversing the accustomed routes, visit the picturesque localities noted in the numerous hand books, and take their departure, without suspecting that they have been travelling over a country, rich with the spoils of nature, and teeming with objects of the highest interest to the instructed observer. Even the inhabitants, with but a few honourable exceptions, manifest an extraordinary degree of apathy in every tiling relating to the Geology of the Island. In vain will the stranger seek for public collections, illustrative of its physical structure, and fossil remains. In one week, it would be easy for a practical geologist to collect a more instructive series of specimens, than is contained
PREFACE.
. IX in the Museum of the Scientific Institution of the capital of the Island — Newport. Conceiving that this indifference and neglect may, in a great measure, be attributable to the want of a popular guide to the geological phenomena of the Island, for the well informed, but unscientific visitors, I have attempted to supply the deficiency in the present volume ; which is designed to afford a familiar explanation of the physical structure of the Isle of Wight, and of the adjacent coast of Dorsetshire, and of the organic remains which abound in many of the localities that will come under our notice, in the course of these Ex cursions. For the convenience of the geologist, and of others who may be desirous of investigating the stratification of the Island in detail, a list is subjoined of the principal works and memoirs hitherto published on the subject, and of which a general review is comprised in the following pages. 19, Chester Square, Pimlico.
January, 1847. " If we look with wonder upon the great remains of human works, such as the columns of Palmyra, broken in the midst of the desert ; the temples of Pæstum, beautiful in the decay of twenty centuries; or the mutilated frag ments of Greek sculpture in the Acropolis of Athens, or in our own museums, as proofs of the genius of artists, and power and riches of nations now passed away; with how much deeper feeling of admiration must we consider those grand monuments of nature which mark the revolutions of the Globe; continents broken into islands, one land produced, another destroyed; the bottom of the ocean become a fertile soil; whole races of animals extinct, and the bones and exuviæ of one class covered with the remains of another, and upon the graves of past generations — the marble or rocky tomb, as it were, of a former animated world — new generations rising3 and order and harmony established, and a system of life and beauty produced out of chaos and death; proving the infinite power, wisdom, and goodness of the Great Cause of all things!"
Sir H. Davy. TABLE OF CONTENTS. Hints for Visitors to the Isle of Wight, p. 17. Description ofthe Plates, pp. 23 — 30. Figures of Fossil Shells from the Freshwater Tertiary Deposits of the Isle of Wight, PI. I. Fossil Shells and Teeth of Mammalia from the same strata, PI. II. from the Marine Tertiary Deposits, Pi. in. of the Greensand Deposits, PI. IV. do. do. PI. V. from the Wealden Deposits, PI. VI. Plan ofthe Geological Structure ofthe Isle or Wight, PI. VII. p. 94. Alum Bay, from Headon Hill, iV.VIII. p. 146. Displaced Strata at Headon Hill, PI. IX. p. 150. Chalk Clifes at Freshwater Gate, PI. X. p. 194. Compton Bay, from Afton Downs, PI. XI. p. 210. Blackgang Chine, from the Seashore, PI. XII. p. 234. Vertical Chalk and Flint Strata on Brading Down, PI. XIII. p. 252. Wealden Cliffs, in Compton Bay, PI.
XIV. p. 274. Culver Cliffs, from the Sea, PI. XV. p. 336. View of the Dorsetshire Coast, from Worbarrow Hill, PI. XVI. p. 370. Lulworth Cove, from the West, P/.XVIL p. 376. West Lulworth and Cove, PI. XVIII. p. 330. Durdle Cove, PI. XIX. p. 386. Geological Map of the Isle of Wight, PI. XX. p. 30. This Map is inserted opposite p. 430. CONTENTS. Chapter I.— Introductory, 31. Geological principles, 57. Geology of the South-east of England, 59. Tabular arrangement of the strata, 63. Order of superposition of the strata, 65. London eocene deposits, 66. Chalk formation, 66. Wealden formation, 08. London and Brighton railway section, 72. Geological mutations, 74. Chapter II. — South-western railway, 77. Strata of the London basin, 78. London clay, 80. Artesian wells, 81. The railway sections, 83.
Southampton station, 86. Southampton to Ryde, 89. Geological structure of the Isle of Wight, 90. Rivers of the Isle of Wight, 95. From Cowes to Ryde, 97. Chapter III. — Freshwater eocene strata, 100. Einstead quarries, 102. Fossil rein-deer, 103. Eocene strata at Binstead, 105. Fossil charæ, 108. Fossil land and river shells, 110. Fossil turtles, 112. Fossil remains of extinct mammalia, 115. Chapter IV.— From Ryde to Culver Cliff, 121. Geology of Whitecliff Bay, 124. The strata and organic remains, 127. Sandown Bay, 132. Red Cliff, 135. Bones of the Iguanudon, 137. Chapter V. — From Ryde, through Newport, to Alum Bay, 139. The river Medina, 140. Newport to Calbourne and Alum Bay, 142. The coast from Ryde to Alum Bay, 145. Headon Hill and Alum Bay, 149. Geology of Headon Hill and Alum Bay, 153.
Sequence of Geological mutations, 159. Organic remains, 160. Yarmouth and Lymington, 162. Christchurch Bay, 164 tjtrata of Hordwell Cliffs, 166. Hordwell fossils, 171. Chapter VI. — The Chalk formation, 173. Subdivisions of the cretaceous system, 175. Range of the chalk through the Isle of Wright, 176. The upper and lower chalk, 178. Chalk and flint, 179. Silicified fossils of the chalk, 181. Fossil animalcules, 183. The Firestone, 185. The Gait, 188. The Greensand, 189. Summary of the Cretaceous system, 192. Chapter VII.— From Yarmouth to Freshwater Gate, 194. Scratchell's Bay, 198. Vertical chalk strata, 199. Shattered flints, 202. The Chalk downs, 204. Cause of the present configuratio.i of chalk hills, 206. From Freshwater Gate to Compton Bay, 210. Geological sections of the southern coast, 213.
Pebbles and Shingle, 216. CONTESTS. XIII Chapter VIII.— From Compton Bay to Atherfield Point, 219. Atherfield cliffs, 221. Greensand series, 223. Neocomian, or Atherfield strata, 227. Greensand fossils, 229. The cliffs at Blackgang Chine, 233. The Undercliff, 237. Geological structure of the Undercliff, 240. Fossils of the Firestone strata, 242. Fossil fuci, 247. Southern range of Chalk Downs, 249. Coast of the Undercliff, 251. The coast from Ventnor to Sandown Bay, 257. Chapter IX. — The Wealden formation, 262. Nature of river deposits, 204. Wealden strata of the Isle of Wight, 269. Excursion to Brook Bay, 271. Cliffs from Compton Chine to Brook Point, 272. Brook Point, 277. Petrified trees, 279. Structure of the fossil wood, 282. Chapter X. — Organic remains of the Wealden, 286. Fossil vegetables, 286.
Endogenites erosa, 288 Fossil cycadeous plants, 290. Clathraria Lyellii, 292. Fossil shells, 299. Sussex and Petworth marble, 299. Fossil freshwater bivalves, 302. Unio Valdensis, 302. Fossil cyprides, 305. Fossil fishes, 307. Chapter XI. — Fossil bones of reptiles, 309. The Iguanodon, 312. The Hylæosaurus, 322. Megalosaurus, 323. Cetiosaurus, 324. Streptospondylus, 325. Plesiosaurus, 325. Fossil turtles, 326. Imprints on sandstone, 326. Ancient ripple-marks, 328. Summary of the Wealden formation, 331. The Country of the Iguanodon, 332. Voyage round the Isle of Wight, 335. Chapter XII. — Voyage from Yarmouth to Swanage, 345. Swanage Bay, 348. The Purbeck strata, 353. Fossils of the Purbeck strata, 354. The Portland oolite, 359. Geographical distribution of the strata, 361. Southern coast of Purbeck, 362.
Kimmeridge coal, 367. South-west coast, 368. Worbarrow Bay, 375. Lulworth Cove, 376. Fossil trees, 383. Durdle Cove, 385. Chaldon Downs, 389. Ringstead Bay, 390 Pseudo-volcano, 392. The Isle of Portland, 393. The petrified forest, 395. Organic remains, 400. Retrospect, 403. The Oolitic epoch, 404. The Wealden epoch, 405. The Cretaceous epoch, 406. The Tertiary epoch, 407. The Pre-historic epoch, 408. Corollary, 409. List op Works relating to the " Geology of the Isle of Wight, and the Coasts of Hampshire and Dorsetshire," 415. Index of Places, 419. General Index, 421. Geological Map of the Isle of Wight, opposite p. 430. LIST OF MONOGRAPHS. 1. Section from London* to tlie Southern Coast of the I. OF Wight, p. 71 ■ 2. Diagram of the original position of the Tektiaky, Chalk, and Wealden Formations, p. 74. 3.
Ideal Section from London to the Southern Coast of the Isle of Wight, p. 75. 4. Fossil Skull of a Rein-deer, from Binstead, p. 104. 5. Fossil Seed-vessels of Chora, from Whitecliff Bay, p. 109. G. Sternal plate of a Fossil freshwater Turtle, from Binstead, p. 112. 7. Portion of the Carapace of a Fossil Turtle, from St. Helen's, p. 1 14. S. Diagram of the Eocene Strata in Whitecliff Bat, p. 126. 9. Section from Shanklin to Bembridge Down, across Sandown Bay, p. 134. 10. Section across the Valley of the Medina, near Rookley, p. 141. 11. Diagram of the Eocene Strata at Alum Bay and Headon Hill, p. 155. 12. Fossil Rosalia, in flint, p. 184. 13. Nautilus e/egans, from near Ventnor, p. 186. 14. Ammonites variant, from near Bonchurch, p. 187. 15. Ammonites Mantelli, from near Bonchurch, p. 187. 16.
Section from Afton Downs to Graxge CniNE, p. 215. 17. Section from Barn's Chine to St. Catherine's Down, p. 215. 18. Section from Brook Point to Shalcomb Down, p. 220. 19. Fossil Teeth of a species of Bybodus, from Atherfield, p. 233 20. Section of the Undercliff, near Ventnor, p. 256. 21. Leaf of Lonchopteris Mantelli, from the Cliff near Brook, p. 2S7. 22. Stem of Clathraria Lyellii, from Brook Bay, p. 293. 23. Clathraria Lyellii, from Bonchurch, p. 297. 24. Petiole of Clathraria Lyellii, p. 296. 25. Fossil Cyprides, from Brook Bay, p. 307, 26. Thigh-bone of the Iguanodon, from Brook Bay, p. 315. 27. A Tooth of the Iguanodon, from Brook Bay, p. 317. 28. Section across Swanage Bay, p. 348. 29. A polished slice of Purbeck Marble, p. 353. 30. A Tooth of the Swanage I'ossil Crocodile, p. 357. 31.
Plan of the South-west Coast of the Isle of Purbeck, p. 370. 32. Plan of the Coves, or Bays, on the Coast of Purbeck, p. 374. 33. Section of the West side of Lulworth Cora, p. 379. 34. Section of the East side of Lulworth Cora, p. 380. 35. Strata in the Cliff on the East of Lulworth Cove, p. 384. 36. Cliffs from Whitenore Point to Bats-Corner, p. 390. *ust of lignographs — continued. XV 37. Palm-leaf from Whitecliff Bay, p. 431. 38. Phragmocone of Belemnitella in Flint, p. 440. 39. Pterocera Moreausiana, p. 442. 40. Pterocera Becklesii, p. 443. 41. Ancyloceras Matheronianus, p. 444. 42. Fir-cones (Abietites Dunkeri) from the Wealden, p. 453. 43. Abietites Dunkeri, p. 454. CONTENTS— continued. SUPPLEMENT. I. List of Memoirs relating to the Geology of the Isle of Wight and the adjacent Coast of Hampshire, published since the first edition of this work, p. 419 .
II. Supplementary Chapter, p. 423*. § 1. Classification of the Eocene strata, p. 424*. § 2. Section of Eocene freshwater strata at Ryde, p. 428*. (j 3. Remains of the Mammoth, p. 428*. § 4. Tertiary fossils, p. 428*. § 5. Dicotyledonous leaves from Eocene strata, p. 429*. \ 6. Fossil Palm-leaf from Whitecliff Bay, p. 431. § 7. Fossil Turtles from the Eocene strata, p. 434. § 8. Fossil Crocodiles from the Eocene strata, p 434. § 9. Fossil Serpents from the Eocene strata, p. 437. § 10. Fossil Mammalia from the Eocene strata, p. 437. § 11. Cretaceous formation, p. 439. \ 12. Belemnitella, p. 439. § 13. Pterocera from Atherfield, p. 441. § 14. Pterocera Becklesii, p. 442. § 15. Ancyloceras from Atherfield, p. 444. \ 16. Molluskite, "fossil guano," p. 445. § 17. Wealden formation, p. 450. tj IS.
Fir-cones (Abietites Dmikeri) from the Wealden, p. 451. % 19. Wealden Reptiles, p. 457. \ 20. Purbeck Strata, p. 460. Retrospective Summary, p. 462. Description of the Geological Map, p. 471. Index to the Supplement, p. 477. HINTS FOR VISITORS To Tils*: gjsle of __®tgt.t. HINTS FOR VISITORS TO Œfje gjsle of _l_Stgf.t. As the tourists from Southampton, Gosport, Portsmouth, &c, generally land either at Ryde or Cowes, the following Excursions are so arranged, as to afford an explanation of the geological phenomena, when proceeding from either of those towns, to the eastern, or western, extremity of the Island. But as the preliminary sketch of the Geology of the South-east of England (p. 59), conveys a general idea of the structure of the country, it is immaterial at what place the observer may commence his explorations.
" Brannons Travelling Map of the Isle of Wight? will be found very convenient for reference ; and " Barber 's Picturesque Illustrations?' which contains numerous excellent engravings of the most inter esting scenery, will serve as a beautiful illustrative Atlas to our geological descriptions. B HINTS FOR TOURISTS. Cowes. — In the vicinity of this town there are no interesting sections of the strata easily accessible to visitors, nor any locality rich in organic remains. The blocks of freshwater limestone scattered along the shore, contain the usual fossils of the tertiary fluvio-marine deposits. Ryde.* — The freshwater tertiary strata are fully displayed in the vicinity of Ryde. A de lightful walk to the village of Binstead, conducts to several quarries of the hmestone wdiich is extensively used as a building material along the northern district of the Island.
Fine specimens may here be collected of fossil freshwater shells, (see PI. I. and II.) ; and these quarries are worth visiting again and again, for the chance of finding teeth or bones of mammalia, similar to those which occur at Montmartre, near Paris, and of which some relics have been discovered at Binstead, by Mr. Pratt, and Mr. Prestwich, (see PI. II. ). From Ryde, the Tertiary strata at Brading, Bembridge, St. Helen's, and White Cliff Bay — the Chalk at Culver Cliffs — and the Wealden deposits at Sandown Bay — may be visited; and afterwards the Firestone, Gait, and * At Ryde information may be obtained as to the best localities, and mode of visiting them, of Mr. G. Fovvlstone, Lapidary, 4, Victoria Arcade; who has generally on sale a choice collection of pebbles and other specimens, the genuine productions of the Island; many of the so-called Isle of Wight pebbles, are either German or Scotch agates!
HINTS FOB TOURISTS. 19 Greensand, of the Chalk formation at Shanklin, and along the Undercliff. If the direct road from Ryde to the western extremity of the Island is taken, we pass by several quarries at Binstead, on the road-side ; and traverse the interior of the Island, by that picturesque spot, Wooton Bridge, to Newport, and from thence to Alum Bay. Grove's hotel, on the summit of the hill, is an excellent resting-place for the visitor desirous of examining the highly inter esting tertiary strata at Headon Hill, and Alum Bay. From Cowes, by Newport, the same route may be taken. By the steamers we may proceed to Yar mouth,* which is the best locality for surveying the western parts of the Island. The tertiary strata at Colwell Bay, Headon Hill, and Alum Bay, are within a moderate distance ; and magnificent sections of the Chalk are displayed from the Needles, along Scratchell's Bay to Freshwater Gate (see Pi.
X.). From the latter place ex cursions may be made either over Aston and Shalcomb Downs, (see PI. XL and XII.), or under the Cliff by Compton Bay, to Brook Point, * Mr. Butler, of the Bugle Inn, Yarmouth, an intelligent pracitcal Ornithologist, will afford the stranger the requisite information as to the most interesting localities, and the best means nf visiting them. He has often accompanied me in my geological rambles. B PEDESTRIAN TOCR ROUND THE ISLAND. where the fossil forest of the Wealden is exposed. From Brook, the Atherfield Coast-guard station may be visited, where there is a foot-track down the Cliff to the sea-shore, near the junction of the freshwater beds of the Wealden, with the marine strata of the Greensand above ; a locality, which the researches of Dr. Fitton have made classic ground to the geologist.
A pedestrian tour round the Island may be accomplished in ten or twelve days, and the principal localities visited, and a good collection obtained of the organic remains peculiar to each formation. The following notes of a trip made last summer by my young friends, the Messrs. Gladstone, of Stockwell, may, perhaps, be useful to some of my readers. "Monday. — By railway from London to Southampton — to Cowes by steamer. Examined the blocks of freshwater limestone on the sea-shore; and collected specimens of Limiieus, (PI. I. figs. 3, 4), Planorbis (PI I. fig. 1), and other shells. By coach to Newport ; walked to Carisbrook Castle, and after a stroll over the ruins, examined the chalk pits of Mountjoy. Tuesday. — Rode to Calbourne, and visited the quarries of freshwater limestone. Walked to Grove's hotel on the summit of the hill, over Alum Bay.
In the afternoon strolled to the sea shore at the foot of Headon Hill, and along Alum Bay ; collected numerous fossil shells from the freshwater strata at the former, and marine shells from the London Clay at the latter place. Wednesday. — Walked over the Downs to Freshwater Gate; and from thence by Aston and Shalcomb Downs to Brook Point, PEDESTRIAN TOUR ROUND THE ISL AND. 21 where we examined the fossil forest of the Wealden. Pro ceeded by Brixton through Atherfield to Blackgang Chine ; the unfavourable state of the weather prevented our reaching Ather field Point. Thursday.— Proceeded along the Undercliff" by St. Lawrence, Ventnor, Bonchurch, and Luccomb Chine, to Shanklin ; stopping occasionally to collect specimens, and enjoy the scenery. Went along the shore to Dunnose Point, and gathered numerous fossils; among which were some leaflets of the Wealden fern (Lonchopteris Mantelli), associated with terebratulœ', and tri goniæ.
Slept at Shanklin. Friday. — Walked by the sea-side to Sandown Bay, where we collected many Wealden fossils ; proceeded to Braoing. Saturday. — Visited the Culver Cliff's and White Cliff' Bay, and obtained many fossils similar to those from the north-western part of the Island. In the evening walked to Ryde. Monday. — Went to the quarries at Binstead, and collected several good specimens of fossil freshwater shells of the same species as those at Calbourne. Left for Portsmouth ; visited the Dock Yards : to London by the late train." These young gentlemen went unattended, and without any previous knowledge of the Isle of Wight, except what they had gathered from con versations with me, and returned home with an instructive series of the organic remains of the Island; thus affording a practical illustration of Mrs. Barbauld's admirable story of "Eyes and No Eyes?
" To discover order and intelligence in scenes of apparent wildness and confusion, is the pleasing task of the geological inquirer." — Dr. Paris. ORGANIC REMAINS. PI. I. — Fossil shells, from the freshwater Eocene strata of the Isle of Wight, at Headon Hill, Calbourne, Shalfleet, and Binstead. PI. II. — Fossil shells from the same deposits; and teeth of Mammalia, from the quarries at Binstead, near Ryde. PI. III. — Fossil shells from the marine Eocene deposits, at Alum Bay, Colwell Bay, &c. PI. IV. — Fossil shells from the Greensand strata of the Chalk formation. The Perna Midleti, a very cha racteristic shell, is here figured. PI. V. — Other shells from the Greensand: the large Scaphite, which occurs in this division of the cretaceous deposits, is represented on a small scale, in Fig. 1 1 .
PI. VI. — A few characteristic freshwater shells from the Wealden strata. PI. VII. — A plan of the Geological structure of the Isle of Wight ; by Professor John Phillips. GEOLOGY OF THE ISLE OF WIGHT. PI. VIIL — Alum Bay, from Headon Hill. This view is taken from the side of the hill, where the pathway from the summit of the Downs winds along the edge of the cliff, to the foot-track that con ducts to the sea-shore. In this sketch, the nearly vertical Chalk strata which terminate in the isolated wedge shaped masses, called " The Needles? are alone visible. The variegated tertiary sands and clays, that impart so remarkable an aspect to Alum Bay from the sea, form the vertical face of the cliff, on the left hand of the observer, but are not seen in this sketch. The Isle of Portland appears looming in the remote distance.
PI. IX.— Tertiary Strata of Headon Hill, from THE SEA. The face of the cliff here represented, exhibits a natural section of a series of tertiary strata, principally of freshwater origin, which have been thrown down, unconformably to the marine deposits in the adjacent cliff of Alum Bay ; for while the latter are vertical, these are nearly horizontal. The foot-path runs from the Downs to the sea-shore, along the steep slope, forming the north side of the chasm that separates Headon Hill from Alum Bay * its situation is indicated by the two upper figures. PI. X. — Chalk Cliffs, on the west of Freshwater Gate. The face of the cliffs to the west of the landing-place at Freshwater Gate, presents a nearly perpendicular section, 200 feet high, of the Upper Chalk, with numerous layers of flint, the strata being highly in clined.
At the base of the projecting cliff is the entrance to a large cavern, formed by the continued action of the surge on the chalk rock. PI. XI. — View of the Cliffs from beyond Compton Chine to Brook Point, as seen from near the base of Afton Down. The foreground is part of the southern slope of Afton Down, and consists of the flinty chalk. The pathway winds over the brow, and leads to Compton Chine, down which a rude foot-track conducts to the beach. The strata at this point are the cretaceous ferruginous sands, which emerge from beneath the Gait on the west, and are succeeded on the east by the Wealden deposits ; but the face of the cliffs along the westernmost part of Compton Bay is not seen in this sketch. The strata forming the cliffs, shown in this view, are the sands, clays, and shelly limestones of the Wealden.
The first point of land jutting into the sea, and ter minating in ledges or reefs, is the western boundary of Brook Bay ; at the base of the cliff is the fossil forest of the Wealden. The limits of Brook Bay are shown by the head-land beyond, which is the eastern point. The farthest land on the shore is the cliff near Black gang Chine. Saint Catherine's Hill rises in the remote distance. GEOLOGY OF THE ISLE OF WIGHT. PI. XII. — Blackgang Chine from the sea - shore, looking north-east. This view presents a fine natural section of the strata composing the Greensand group of the Chalk formation. The highest point in the distance is the escarpment of Saint Catherine's Hill, which is 830 feet above the level of the sea. The upper part of the cliffs is composed of alternating strata of greenish grey sand, and sandstone; from the wearing away of the friable layers, the beds of hard grit become prominent, and appear in this view as very distinct, and nearly horizontal, bands of rock.
The cliff below the thin bed of ironstone grit, from which the cascade issues, is formed of dark-coloured clay, alternating with ferruginous sand and grit. The long-continued action of the water has produced a deep chasm, or chine, and the stream falls in a nearly perpendicular column from a height of seventy feet, to the base of the cli,ff whence it rushes to the sea.* PI. XIII. — Vertical Chalk Strata on Brading Down. This sketch shows the vertical position into which the originally horizontal chalk strata, have been thrown, in the central range of downs. The layers of shattered flint nodules, render the displacement of the strata obvious to the most casual observer. * The picturesque character of this interesting spot is admirably shown in the views given by Sir Henry Englefield, and by Mr. Barber; and also in the spirited vignettes on the embellished letter-paper published by the booksellers in the Island.
PI. XIV. — Cliffs of Wealden Clays in Compton Bay, SEEN FROM THE WEST. In this view, the nearest cliffs are formed by the clays, sands, and shales of the Wealden, which constitute the cliffs and ledges, to beyond Brook Point, and almost as far as Atherfield. The inclined position of the strata is well shown in the sketch. The horizontal layer on the top of the cliffs, is an accumulation of drifted materials, composed of gravel, clay, and loam, which in some places is from ten to twelve feet thick, and contains bog-wood, hazel-nuts, &c. The nearest point of land is Bull-face Ledge; and that further to the east, is Brook Point, where the fossil forest forms ledges that stretch far out to sea. The extreme land is the easternmost point of Brook Bay. The view given in Plate XL shows the continuation of the cliffs from beyond Bull-face Ledge to the western point of Brook Bay.
PI. XV. — Culver Chalk-cliffs, from the sea. In this sketch, (reduced from Mr. Webster's), is shown the eastern promontory of the Isle of Wight, which is a vertical section of the chalk range, that extends from this point, in a westerly direction, right through the island to the Needles. The interrupted lines denote the layers of flint, and distinctly exhibit the highly inclined position of the strata towards the north. The dip varies from 50 to 70 degrees. The distance on the left, is Sandown Bay ; on the right, are seen the eocene strata of White-cliff Bay. VIEWS ON THE COAST OF THE ISLE OF PURBECK : Reduced from the beautiful Engravings by Mr. Webster, in Sir Henry Englefield' 's Isle of Wight. PI. XVI. — View of the Dorsetshire Coast, from Worth Barrow, looking westward. This interesting view of the Dorsetshire coast, looking towards the west, is taken from Worth Barrow, a tumulus situated near the summit of a very high precipice of the chalk range.
The bay included between the foreground and the detached rocks in the sea, is Worth Barrow Bay ; the road down to which, is seen just beyond the projecting point of the chalk cliff. The rocks bounding the bay, are the Purbeck beds, covering the Oolite. The long hill in the middle of the view is the " Swine's back," beyond which is West Lulworth Cove. The Isle of Portland appears in the distance, united to the main land by the Chesil-bank. Weymouth road is indicated by the vessels at anchor. The deep sinuosities made in the cliffs along this coast by the inroads of the sea, are well shown in this sketch.* PI. XVII. — Lulworth Cove, from the west. Lulworth Cove is an almost semicircular bay, formed by the action of the sea, on the vertical strata which constitute this part of the coast ; and in the section thus exposed, the series of rocks, from the chalk to the oolite inclusive, may be traced.
The opening of the book is shown; the full text loads in the reader.
Loading the full text…
The end
You’ve reached the end of Geological Excursions round the Isle of Wight, and along the adjacent coast of Dorsetshire, illustrative of the most interesting geological phenomena and organic remains.
