Eight Months with Dr. Leichhardt in the years 1846-47

Front matter

woivr^ WITH On s i nnT 7- .CHHARD1 IN THE YEARS 1846-47. BY JOHN F. MANN, 3)A^u> JRNER * liEXDfcT'SOK. 1S88. TuCNiB &HEU0ER60N LITK. EIGHT MONTHS WITH DR. LEICHHARDT, IN THE YEARS 1846-47. BY JOHN F. MANN. aSEbncjr : TURNER AND HENDERSON. J888. TO THE PUBLIC. Some explanation is due from me for only now, after the lapse of forty one years, placing this narrative before the public. With the exception of Dr. Leichhardt's letter to his friend, Mr. Lynd, dated from Mr. Russell's station, Darling Downs, ist August, 1847, which appeared in the Sydnev Morning Herald of the 24th of the same month, and a very fair account published by Mr. Bunce at Melbourne in 1859, no authentic report has as yet been recorded of this journey. As the whole party were, soon after starting, so thoroughly prostrated by malarial fever as to be quite incapacitated from proceeding, no information of any importance beyond that already known had to be reported, and as the Doctor had written in favourable terms of his companions, I was content to let the subject rest.

I was not aware, however, that while Dr. Leichhardt had written thus favourably of his companions to his friends in Sydney, that he had written in quite the opposite strain to his friends in Germany. In the Sydney Morning Herald of the 24th January, 1866, there appeared a letter copied from the South Australian Register, January 16th, in which the Doctor, in a letter to his brother-in-law, attributes the whole of his misfortunes to the bad conduct of his companions. To this I at once replied, and again let the matter drop. A writer in the Athenæum, December 10th, 1881, in allusion to the probable fate of Dr. Leichhardt, adopts the adverse account, and in unmeasured terms attributes the failure of this expedition to the bad conduct of the members of the party. For the sake of my children, myself, and the memory of my former companions, I now publish a true version of this journey in as brief a form as possible.

As the country we then traversed has long since been occupied and is well-known, I have expunged all descriptive details — either botanical or geological — adhering solely to simple facts ; and I leave my readers to form their own opinion. John F. Mann. " Kerepunu," Neutral Bay, December, 1887. In the Years 1846-47. BY JOHN F. MANN. The name of Ludwig Leichhardt will ever stand high on the list of the intrepid explorers of this country. A glance now at the map of Queensland will show the magnitude of the journey so successfully undertaken by him in 1845. At that time nothing was known of the country between Darling Downs and the Gulf of Carpentaria. This vast tract, now occupied by settlers with their flocks and herds, gold and other mines, sugar plantations, and studded with thriving villages and towns united by rail and coach roads, was then a terra incognita.

Part II

On the following day, the 14th, we were in great spirits as we again loaded our mules tor another start. All our party were now together, cattle, horses, mules, goats, and sheep. During our stay at this camp we had been visited by many natives, who, however, kept at a respectful distance. I inter viewed many of them, one man I found to be both deaf and dumb. While loading the mules numbers stood around evidently much surprised at our movents. The Doctor as usual led the way mounted on his charger, compass in hand, closely followed by Perry, who led a quiet mule which carried the packs containing the most valuable articles, books, papers, sextant, powder, matches, cooking utensils, plate chest, etc. ; then followed the mules, driven by Bœcking and myself; the cattle driven by Hely and Brown, and the rear was brought up by the sheep and the goats, driven by Bunce, Turnbull, and Wammai.

The Doctor was a tall man, six feet in height ; he had lost a considerable amount of flesh since leaving Sydney which gave him the appearance of greater height. He wore at this time a Malay hat of conical shape, a most serviceable covering ; the lower part of his face was hidden by a bushy, light-brown beard and moustache ; a very old, greasy, long tweed coat, which had seen service on a former occasion, partly hid a red woollen shirt ; his moleskin trousers did not quite reach to his low boots, these were tied with string. He preferred to carry a sword as he could not use a gun, this was slung in such a manner — the handle projecting behind him — that he would have found it a difficult matter to grasp it in case he required to do so. Being now troubled with boils, he had one stirrup as long and the other as short as possible.

We passed a conical hill of sandstone to our right, named after Mr. Gilbert, who ascended it on the Doctor's former journey ; also the grave of a blackfellow, which was hollowed out of a white-ant's nest and covered with bushes. Called the place " Dead Man's creek." On the 15th we encamped at a waterhole near the Dawson River. We disturbed a party of blacks who were securing mussels by means of their feet from the muddy banks ; but we remarked that though muddy, the water made excellent tea. The Dawson and tributaries were so swollen by flood waters, that we did not find a crossing place till the 22nd, when the Doctor, after reconnoitring, discovered a large tree which had fallen from bank to bank by means of which he decided upon crossing over. On our journey, so far, we had passed over much open undulating country, including Calvert's Plains, separated by belts of dense brigalow scrubs.

From the high ridges and hills most charming views of the surrounding country were obtained, especially from a ridge which the Doctor named " Bottle-tree Ridge " on account of the many trees of that description growing there (species of sterculia kurrajong). From that point we obtained extensive views of Gilbert and Lynd's Ranges. Much of the country had quite a park-like appearance, and was apparently well suited for pastoral purposes. Our stock travelled wt2ll ; the lesson we experienced at Charley's creek as to their management was not lost upon us. The Doctor cautiously avoided walking amongst them at night, so by careful treatment they were commencing to encamp close to our tents and were getting accustomed to our movements. The Doctor, however, would persist in trying his taming qualities with the mules ; in spite of all cautions, he would walk up to the heels of a mule as readily as to its head; the consequence was that he received such a kick in the stomach from one of them as to completely double him up for some time.

I thought that he was seriously injured, but he regained his breath after a few struggles. Our long detention— twenty-five days — at Charley's creek had enabled us to reduce the amount of flour very considerably, so that the mules travelled along under lighter loads; but not a day passed without one or more of them coming to grief, either by sinking in the soft boggv soil or muddy watercourses, or otherwise by kicking their loads off for apparently no reason whatever ; occasionally they were attacked by hornets, and so had good cause to become restless. The day previous to our arrival on the river, Brown and Wammai were for a long time absent ; so I went in search, and soon discovered them. Wammai was lying full length on the ground face downwards, while Brown was busily engaged in ornamenting his back, by cutting short parallel gashes from his shoulders to his heels.

Wammai's back was bleeding profusely ; he had evidently admired, and was copying the patterns scored upon the back of the young Adonis whom we had seen at Charley's creek. On encamping Wammai at once devised a plan for getting the sheep and goats across. He felled two long saplings, which were launched forward as far as possible at about four or five feet apart. Unfortunately they did not reach the opposite bank by about three feet, so were supported on forked sticks ; he then laid cross pieces along them, and covered the whole with sheets of bark and branches of trees. Notwithstanding the soreness of his back, consequent upon the operation he had undergone, he worked vigorously at this by himself, while we were engaged in carrying the packs across by the fallen tree. This was a very tedious operation, for the ground was so muddy, that the loads had to be carried some distance before a dry spot could be found to stack them on.

When all the baggage was across, we turned our attention to the sheep and goats. In the first instance we passed a few across the river, so as to serve as a decoy ; and then, after much coaxing, the others commenced to walk along Wammai's bridge. Upwards of fifty crossed by this means, and we were congratulating ourselves, and Wammai too, on the success of his engineering skill, when suddenly the whole platform gave way, and the sheep upon it were thrown into the river. The water was flowing with great rapidity, and we had much difficulty in saving them. The remaining sheep and the goats were then " rounded up," and, standing in the water, we were passing them across one by one very satisfactorily, but too slow for the Doctor ; he tried to " rush " them across ; consequently they dispersed in all directions so that we were compelled to give chase and catch them as we could, which, owing to the muddy state of the ground, was most fatiguing.

Five goats and two sheep were washed down by the stream and drowned. The horses and cattle were readily driven over. This operation occupied us till dark. For our exertions the Doctor allowed us an extra fat cake and sugar. We resumed our journey on the following morning, the 23rd, by following up Palm-Tree creek, which, however contained but little water. The palms (coryphus) were very beautiful. We stripped some of them in order to obtain the young shoots in the centre of the tree, which we found extremely palatable. On the second day, after leaving the Dawson, we came upon a fine reach of water, and thinking it to be a river, we gave a loud cheer as we rode up to the bank ; but the Doctor soon dispelled our hopes by informing us that he traced it downwards on his former journey, and found it to end in a swamp.

Our course was upwards, and in about two miles we arrived at the source — a small waterhole. We shortly afterwards came upon the " Robinson," which here took a southerly direction. The bed of this river was about ore hundred feet across, and sandy ; the banks high and steep, the water very partial, and to be found only in small holes. As the day had been extremely hot, our cattle, as well as our selves, had suffered much from thirst. ' .Altitude one thousand and twenty-eight feet. We followed the valley upwards for two days. As this river flowed through mountainous country our progress was slow; our route at times being over steep ranges densely timbered with a variety of beautiful trees, amongst which were palms in great clusters, bottle trees, pine, oak, etc. We also passed through a grove of sweet scented myrtaceous plants and a species of tristanea, with apparently a new kind of clematis.

The scenery in general, wild and interesting. On the 28th, we remained in camp in order to enable the Doctor to reconnoitre, as well as to enable us to repair the many damages done to the packs and saddles by being torn against trees and rocks. On the 29th, we continued our journey. The valleys we traversed were extremely picturesque, being studded with arborescent zamia, cypress pine (collitris), dogwood (Jacksonia) , and many other trees. They were hemmed in by banks, or hills, of great height and steepness, from the summit of which extensive views of the surrounding country were obtained. Expedition range, with mounts Nicholson and Aldis were con spicuous objects ; the latter being a perfect cone. The country ahead was intersected by the deep ravines and gorges of Ruined Castle creek. Owing to the precipitous nature of the country we had much difficulty in finding a pathway by which we could descend into this valley.

At length, proceeding by single file around the base of perpendicular cliffs we reached the main watercourse. The valley soon opened out to a fine grassy country, surrounded by high hills topped by sandstone cliffs. Water seemed plentiful, and numerous branches united with the main stream. We traced this valley up for about ten miles and encamped the whole day, 3rd February, Wednesday. This afforded us a further opportunity for repairing damages, and for exploring the locality. The name " Ruined Castle creek " was most appropriate. From the top of one of the high hills a remarkable view was obtained, immense clusters of sandstone rocks occupied the summit of every hill, these, piled together, in every fantastic shape presented the exact appearance of ruins. Since leaving Charley's creek we had been visited almost daily, by thunder storms more or less severe which wet us to the skin before we could obtain shelter, consequently several of my companions complained of colds and influenza.

Mr. Hely had been suffering much from faceache, so much so, as to prevent him from keeping watch, and had to remain in the tent. The doctor not liking to be thus crowded, caused Hely and Turnbull to draw lots as to who should leave the tent. The lot fell to Hely to leave ; this was most unfortunate, as our watches had been so arranged that no more than three should occupy a tent at one time, and as the rainy weather had apparently set in, we each one of us sought shelter. February 4th We again made a move, having had to leave our grey horse behin«i in consequence of lameness so that he was unable to travel. We followed up several valleys before we could find an exit, on account of the perpendicular cliffs ; at one place our progress was completely stopped by the im penetrable nature of the vegetation, and encamped in the afternoon on Zamia creek. 5th.

We were now on the Doctor's original track, followino the course of the Zamia creek downward, we passed "Wonga Wonga "camp, and about noon encamped on " White Wallaby camp," both old stopping places of the Doctor's. 6th. Made a short stage this day as one of our mules was absent. Turnbull and Brown went in search and overtookus some time afterwards. Mr. Hely suffered so much from his face that the Doctor undertook to extract a tooth for him, by means of a bullet mould, and succeeded most effectually in breaking the tooth and adding to the pain. Altitude one thousand four hundred feet. On the 8th we encamped on Erythrina creek, having crossed Expedition creek, the travelling had been very heavy and severe on the poor mules, the scrubs were dense and extensive, and the ground soft and muddy, so not a day passed without an accident.

Altitude nine hundred and fourteen feet. On the 9th we encamped at the foot of Expedition Range. It rained incessantly during the previous night, and throughout the day. Mr. Bunce complained of feeling unwell. On the 10th it rained so heavily as to prevent our making a start till late, at length we managed to load the mules and ascended the range by a steep ascent. From the tdp the view was extensive. Mount Nicholson, a fine, bold, flattish-topped mountain, was a conspicuous object ; to the south and west wrere the cliffs of Ruined Castle creek, and Mount Aldis, a perfect cone in the valley below. By 5 p.m. we were safely across the range and were glad to find a camping place. This was a very severe day's work both for ourselves and the mules. As our position proved to be a very convenient one with plenty of grass around, I suggested that we should remain for a day to give the mules some rest after the difficult country we had traversed during the last few days, and so give Perry an opportunity of altering some of the pack saddles as most of the mules had very sore backs, but the Doctor dissented, so we pushed on in the rain.

Poor Bunce was so unwell as to be scarcely able to sit on his horse, and Wammai also complained of not feeling well, so the Doctor dosed both with an emetic. In consequence of the flooded state of the country, the Doctor was unable to carry out his first intention of crossing the head of the Comet by Albinia Downs. The water in this river and its tributaries overflowed the banks in many places, so that our journey dunng the following twenty-two days, or to the 5th March, when we arrived on the Mackenzie river, was a continual struggle through dense brigalow scrubs, across swollen creeks, and through swamps and mud. Our route was under water for miles, so much so, that we often had difficulty in finding a suitable camping place, and then it was necessary to cover the ground with branches to keep us out of the mud and to sleep on, as the water would run under us as we laid on the ground ; the rain was incessant ; of course we were wet to the skin, and frequently it was with difficulty we could light a fire to cfeok and dry our clothes.

On one occasion the river rose so suddenly during the night as to cause us to make a hasty retreat, and in a short time our camping place was quite submerged. Not a day passed without some difficulty with the mules. Their small feet offered no resistance to the soil ; they sank at once to the girths. On these occasions, it was necessary to hasten to their assistance and secure them before they rolied over, thereby, not only causing damage to the load, but they ran the risk of getting smothered or drowned. The Doctor got greatly incensed at the delay caused by these accidents, many of which he could have prevented. Doctor Leichhardt led the way, followed by the mules ; when he came to a soft impassable place, he turned aside to avoid it, but allowed the mules to proceed and so they got bogged before either Bœcking or myself could head them back.

I suggested to him, in the quietest manner possible that if, on coming upon a swampy place, he would at once stop the advance of the mules, many of these accidents would be avoided. For some reason of his own, he did not care to adopt my request, and it was not until he had more practical proof of the necessity of carrying out my suggestion that he yielded. On coming one day upon a small, but very muddy, watercourse, some of the mules ran down the bank and three of them got helplessly bogged, so much so, that their heads were under water ; there was no time to be lost, Bœcking and myself, closely followed by Perry, hastened to the rescue. Each seized a mule by the head and held its nose above water. We were still in a helpless position, for the animals had to be unloaded. The Doctor, who was watching us from the bank, was at length induced to come to our assistance.

He relieved me of my mule, when I hastened to one of the others whose load, which contained salt — a perishable article — was fast sinking in the mud. I carried the packs to dry land, and so released the animal. The Doctor was furious ; he could not control his temper, for he and Perry, were compelled during this time, to stand in the water, each holding a mule's head up. aVfter this, he generally checked the advance of the mules on approaching a swampy place ; but he did it very reluctantly. Irrespective of these accidents, we suffered immensely from the attacks of mosquitoes and sand flies ; the last named insects put in an appearance about sunrise, and swarmed into our faces like dust. They filled our eyes, nose, ears and mouth, and caused most intense irritation. They did not confine their attacks to us, but extended their visits to the animals, and so gave an additional excuse to the mules for getting rid of their loads.

We were compelled to light fires while loading them. At daybreak, we would light three or four fires when the cattle, horses, and mules would rush up, stand in the smoke, and trample the ashes under their feet. On one or more occasion they took possession of our camp fire and damaged our cooking arrangements. Sunday, 28th February. We were detained for some time this morning on account of our cow having calved. The Doctor determined upon taking the calf on with him, so we placed it on the top of a load. The mule did not approve of the arrangement. The calf commenced to call out— I presume for its mether — so the mule began to kick, which did not silence the calf ; the mule was in earnest, however, and had made up his mind to get rid of his load by some means, and it is difficult to say where the poor calf would have been sent to, had it not been securely fastened to the pack saddle by its legs.

This little game was taken up by all the other mules, who seemed to sympathise with their brother with the calf ; and for a time the whole of them were plunging and kicking at once. It was a wonder that the unfortunate animal was not klled for it was sent flying, first on one side, an«l then on the other of the mule. We caught the mule and released the calf. The Doctor then caused a hole to be cut in one of the canvas squares for the animal's head to come through, and then, by the aid of straps, ropes, and a little management, we brought it along safely. On arriving in camp, Mr. Hely and Turnbull with con siderable ingenuity, constructed a " bush bail" with the intention of milking the cow, who was inclined to be rather wild, so we coaxed her up, and had nearly succeeded in getting her head into the bcail, when the Doctor, with his usual impatience, rushed up, and so belaboured her with a stick, that she ran off bellowing, and would take no further notice of the calf.

As several of the goats had kidded, an attempt was made to rear the poor thing on goats' milk, and it was kept alive by this means for a few days, when it was killed and boiled down bodily for our consumption. Though the Doctor had belaboured the mother, he appeared to take great interest in the daughter ; one morning the calf was missing and he started off in search of it, this was an unusual act for him to do. I accompanied him, but our search was fruitless. I told him a story I had read, I think, in " Gil Bias," of two Aldermen of some Spanish town going in search of an ass. They agreed to imitate the braying of that animal, and started off in opposite directions, but they both imitated the sound so naturally, that they continually took each other for the ass, so had to devise some other plan.

I now suggested that we should both imitate a calf ; I told the Doctor to hold his nose and say " moo." After some practice we separated, going on each side of a small patch of scrub, the Doctor holding his nose and making an awful noise ; my attempt was apparently better, for he came through the scrub to me thinking that he had found the calf. We had a laugh, returned to the camp, and found that Perry had discovered the animal, without having imitated any beast. We were daily followed by natives, who kept well out of our way, but their tracks were numerous in the soft mud ; they overturned our camping places as soon as we vacated them. On one occasion in following some mules which were going astray, I suddenly came upon the bank of the river, and disturbed a larcre number of them, who were encamped on the opposite side ; they fled at once, leaving. everything behind them, the women scream ing loudly ; one woman, however, ran back and hastily seized something from her gunyah, which, as she threw it over her shoulder, proved to be an infant. 4th March, 1847.

Mr. Bunce who had been very ill, had now rallied a little, and Wammai complained of not feeling well; but this day Perry showed such unmistakable signs of fever that the Doctor was compelled to take some notice, so he stripped Perry, and led the poor trembling fellow down to the river, and for about twenty minutes or half-an-hour poured water over him, saying that it " was a certain cure for fever in the early stages," and recommended bathing to us all. He attributed this out break of illness to our having too much to eat, so reduced the number of our meaL from three to two each day. This conjecture was a very remarkable one. Two pounds of flour per diem amongst nine hungry bushmen besides meat, was not a diet likely to disagree with them. It is true that we were not always stinted to goats flesh, but that was such miserable tough stuff as to be almost uneatable ; there was not an ounce of fat in the whole flock.

The sheep were in fair condition, and it was a day of rejoicing when one became so lame as to be unable to travel. The Doctor was in an excited state, and declared that if we got all ill, he had no means of curing its. As it was evident by the flooded state of the river that we would not be able to cross for some time, we at once set to work and erected a large gunyah, or shed of boughs, as a protection against the weather. The Doctor was taken ill the night of our arrival on the Mackenzie, and for nine or ten days was in a deplorable con dition. Perry, unable to stand, Bunce, by no means well, and Turnbull complaining. Mr. Hely and Brown were added to the sick list on the following day, the 7th, and Wammai on the 10th. Bœcking and myself for several days were alone able to get about and attend to our duties and the sick.

Our shed was now known as the hospital, and it proved most serviceable, for the rays of the sun at times were very powerful, the thermometer showing 94 deg. and 95 deg. at noon. I told Bœcking that it was "either he or me for it next." He laughed, and said that he would not give in. I told him not to boast ; that I thought his eyes were not so bright as usual. The following day, the 12th, poor Bœcking was added to the sick list. He tried to make some tea for the sick fellows, but would have fallen into the fire, had I not been close by, and so saved him. I spread his blanket in the hospital, and in a few minutes he was in a burning fever. I was now — until the 24th, when I was taken ill myself — left the sole occupant of the camp who could move about freely ; occasionally some of my companions rallied a little, and so assisted at such work as their strength permitted.

Fortunately, the horses and cattle had not strayed ; they appeared contented, so that I was enabled to look after them. The camp did not present a cheerful scene ; the groans and ravings of many of the poor fellows were pitiable to listen to ; their wants were many and various and could not be supplied. I had never been amongst sickness before, so everything was strange to me. At night we were enlivened by the mournful howls of numerous native dogs, which surrounded us. One, who managed to evade the vigilance of our dogs, was shot at my feet by Turnbull as I laid on the ground. On the 19th the Doctor had so far recovered as to be able to move about a little. During his illness, he occupied his tent by himself, except when it rained, and this was frequent. I had made a small hut, or gunyah, for myself, mid-way between the hospital and the Doctor's tent, so that I could be within call of anyone.

On the previous night, as the clouds looked threaten ing, I crawled into the tent then occupied solely by the Doctor. In doing so, I accidentally placed my hand on one of his (he was laying on his back, his arms stretched out). He immediately grasped it, and drawing me to him, kissed me, and made me kiss him. He was in great distress and low spirits. He complained sadly of the state of his health and of the illness which now beset us. He expressed himself as going " down, down, down "; he could not survive the misfortune which had now overtaken him ; it was killing him. "What have I done to offend Providence that he should treat me thus ? Why has my good luck forsaken me ? Surely my guiding star has not yet set. There is still fame and fortune for me, why am I thus troubled ? I will die in .\ustralia for Australia," etc.