Excursions in the Holy Land, Egypt, Nubia, Syria, etc

Front matter

J'axnlrJ J**rr2l.h,,;aiU™A/uii. oil las TupkistL Cost55Uxae . J^A^li-A^^l^J^-^eM^C^^hw^Z. -.- ,'-■■■ Z>y>e6 EXCURSIONS IN THE HOLY LAND, EGYPT, NUBIA, SYRIA, &c. INCLUDING A VISIT TO THE UNFREQUENTED DISTRICT OF THE HAOURAN. BY JOHN MADOX, Esq. IN TWO VOLUMES. VOL. I. LONDON: RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STREET. $ubltrif)« in (©rttnaii) to fite PUjtSti). 1834. LONDON : PRINTED BY SAMUEL BENTLEY, Dorset Street, Fleet Street. TO HIS MOST EXCELLENT MAJESTY WILLIAM THE FOURTH, KING OF GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND, defender of the faith, etc. etc. etc. THESE VOLUMES, THE RESULT OF MANY DELIGHTFUL WANDERINGS AMID THE VARIED SCENES OF THE EAST, DURING A PROTRACTED ABSENCE OF SOME YEARS FROM HIS NATIVE LAND, ARE, BY THE AUTHOR, GRATEFUL FOR THE ROYAL SANCTION UNDER WHICH THEY APPEAR, AND HAPPY IN HIS SAFE RETURN TO THE PROTECTION OF A JUST AND CONSTITUTIONAL GOVERNMENT, DEDICATED WITH THE HIGHEST SENTIMENTS OF RESPECT AND VENERATION.

P 1? E F A C E. In publishing the following pages from a jour nal compiled at the times when the events oc curred which are here recorded, the Author is desirous of impressing on the minds of his readers that they were in the first instance intended only for the perusal of his friends. A belief, however, that a succinct narrative of the scenes he witnessed during a period of several years passed in the Me diterranean, and in the very interesting countries the shores of which form its eastern extremity, might contain both novelty and amusement, has induced him to present his rambles to the public. Deeming a preface filled with apologies ridicu lous and absurd, he humbly conceives the best way is to state facts, and let others draw conclu sions : recollecting the remark of a liberal and enlightened editor, who said, " that every traveller ought to publish, as thereby something might be gathered which others had omitted." The VI

Preface

. Author therefore came to the determination of arranging his papers, and of limiting his journal to as simple a detail as possible, of what he actually saw, or learned on credible authority, and of its effect upon him. Travellers see things differently, and bestow more or less pains in the acquisition of information ; on these grounds, notwithstanding several of the places hereafter mentioned have been repeatedly described, it is hoped a perusal of the publication will discover sufficient novelty to obviate the tedium of what might otherwise seem repetition. The Author has not aimed at beauties of style, for " it is with books as with women, where a certain plainness of manner and dress is more engaging than that glare of paint, and air, and apparel, which may dazzle the eye, but reaches not the affections."

He has endeavoured to elu cidate the work with a few slight sketches, in order to convey to the reader a tolerably correct idea of the places spoken of, and hopes this will in some degree add value to his pages — antici pating no higher reward than the gratifying feeling that his familiar and " unvarnished" tale has amused his friends, and gained the approbation of the public. CONTEN T S OF THE FIRST VOLUME.

Chapter I

Leave Naples. — Malta. — Church of St. John. — The Faldet. — Feast of St. Gregorio. — Juvenile Pick-pockets. — Medicinal Fungus. — Aerial Voyage. — Scene of St. Paul's Shipwreck — The Boschetto. — Sail for Corfu. — Island of Corfu Town of Corfu. — Port of Zante. — Bitumen Wells. — Town of Zante. — Sail for Smyrna. — Arrival off Milo. — A Greek Brig The Greek Squadron. — The Greek Fleet . . Page 1

Chapter II

Picturesque Scenery. — Visit from the Governor. — Massacre of Greeks. — Turkish Atrocity. — Treachery of the Greeks. — Nocturnal disturbance. — The Medina Frigate. — Town of Smyrna The Turkish Quarter. — Turkish Women. — Visit to Bournabat — Albanians. — An Insult. — An Alarm. — Sail for Constantinople. — Shore of Troy. — Ancient Tombs. — Unwel come Visiter. — Mouth of the Dardanelles. — Mr. Paulovick. — Wretched Village. — Sestos and Abydos . . .22

Chapter III

Point of Heraclia View of Constantinople. — Imperial Pro cession. — Turkish Ladies. — Burying-grounds. — Dance of Der vises Fire at Pera. — Mr. Strutt's Death — The Sweet Waters. CONTENTS. — Public Amusements. — Arrival of the Sultan. — Lord Strang ford. — The Black Sea. — The Aqueducts. — Belgrade. — Turkish Encampment. — Feast of the Beiram. — The Seraglio Gate. — The Sultan's Kioshk.— The Jerid.— Old Walls of Constantino ple. — A dangerous Walk. — Absurd Notions . . 43

Chapter IV

St. Stephano. — Gallipoli. — Sail in the Velocity. — Town of Chisme. — Island of Scio. — School of Homer. — Convent of Con stantine. — Greek Girls. — Gum-mastic. — Village Festival — In solence of the Turks. — Their despotism. — Miserable state of the Greeks. — Ancient Columns. — A Triumphal Arch. — Interview with the Governor. — Salonica. — Port Mandri. — Architectural Remains Gulf of Athens. — Hydra. — Dispute with the Autho rities. — Fugitive Turks. — Spezzia. — Island of Ipsara. — A Massacre. — Cassandra taken. — Napoli di Romania. — Argos. — Interview with Prince Ypsilanti. — A Greek Dinner. — A Pro posal. — Hydriote Men of War. — Milo. — Return to Malta 66

Chapter V

Shores of Egypt. — Cleopatra's Needles. — Harbours at Alex andria Pompey's Pillar. — Sail for Cairo. — Town of Fouah. — The Villages. — A Soldier. — A wretched Group. — The Nile. — Arrival at Cairo. — Tombs of the Caliphs. — Shoubra. — The Bath. — Pyramid of Cheops. — Ascent of the Pyramid. — The Interior. — The Sphynx. — Ancient Tombs. — Site of Heliopolis. —Pyramids of Saccara — Lodgings at Saccara. — A Night Scene. — Joseph's Well ..... 98

Chapter VI

Mosque of Amrah. — Leave Cairo. — Return to Fouah Plains of Alexandria. — Interview with the Pasha. — Ascent of Pom pey's Pillar. — The Plague. — Castle of Rosetta. — Mr. Rapelje Mummies. — A Wreck — The King's Birth-day. — A Greek Gun-boat. — An Ancient Urn. — Contents of the Urn. — Descrip tion of the Urn ..... CONTENTS. IX

Chapter VII

Quarantine. — Visit to Sicily Friends from Malta — The River Anapus. — The Papyrus Plant.— Fonte Cyane. — The Mu seum and Library.- Beautiful District. — Town of Noto. — A Grand Festa. — A Coup de Soleil. — Fountain of Arethusa. — Ear of Dionysius. — The Amphitheatre. — Tomb of Archimedes. — Entrance to Catania. — Ascent of Etna commenced. — The Woody Region The summit gained. — The Crater. — Our Re turn. — The Cento Cavalli. — Giardino.— Taormina.— Messina. — Fireworks ...... 136

Chapter VIII

Messina. —The Houses.— Rock of Scylla. — Charybdis. — Baths. — Sun-rise, and Return to Catania. — Horse-racing. — Public Amusements. — The Theatre. — Leave Sicily. — Arrive at Malta. — The Carnival Melancholy Accident . 162

Chapter IX

Leave Malta.— Corfu.— The Palace.— The " Maid of Athens," — Argostoli. — Fort St. George. — Cephalonia. — Arrival off Mis solonghi. — Attack by the Turks . . . 174

Chapter X

Missolonghi. — Greek Enthusiasm — Inhabitants of the Town. — OfFZante.— Coast of Mai'na.— Hydra.— Captain Hamilton.— Turkish Women.— Gulf of Smyrna.— Vourla.— The Turkish Fleet. — Famine. — Tomb of Agamemnon. —Wild Repast — Napoli. — Spezzia. — Ransomed Women. — Hydra. — A Pirate Schooner Her Capture.— A Caique— Her Crew . 183 183

CHAPTER XL

A Ride in the Mountains. — Magnificent Scenery.— A Vil lage. — A Day's Excursion. — Skiatho and Scopelo. — Town of Scopelo. — Island of Cos. — Boodroun. — Greek Fugitives — Turkish Barbarity. — Retribution.— Massacre at Scio — De vastation.—Captain Hamilton,— A Mountain Village. — Town of Vourla.— A Greek Church. — Ipsara. — Miconi. — Isle of Delos Arrive oft' Syra. — A Greek Heroine . . X CONTENTS.

Chapter XII

Spezzia. — Visit of the Primates. — A Vessel burned. — An Ac cident. — Milo.— Despatches Island of Candia. — A Skirmish. — The Pasha alarmed. — Leprosy. — Town of Candia. — Turk ish Fleet. — Visit to the Pasha.— The Egyptian Admiral. — Leave the Cambrian Mr. Harris's House. — Preparations for Travelling . . . . . .227

Chapter XIII

Our Departure. — Entrance to the Nile. — The Nile. — Nikleh. — Women. — The Desert Scenery of the River. — The Main Channel. — Arrival at Cairo Purchase a Cangea. — The False Pyramid. — Mountain Scenery. — Gibbloterra — Miniet. — Visit to a Bey. — Ruins of Antinoe. — Sugar Manufactory. — Cap tain Gordon's Death. — Siout. — The Pasha's Palace. — The Pasha's Band. — Land at Koos. — Mahomedan Vespers. — Ekhmin — Villages. — A Woman of Kene. — A Motley Group . 245

Chapter XIV

Dendera. — The Temple. — A Garden. — Poor Villagers. — Ar rival at Thebes Janni's House. — Temple of Memnon. — Medi net-Abou. — Signor Passalacqua. — Travelling alone. — A Female Dancer. — The Boat in Danger. — An Invalid. — Assouan A Wild Scene. — Women of the Cataract My Pilot and Crew A Critical Situation — Enter Nubia.— A Fray. — A Nubian Doctor. — A Cloud of Sand.— A Tale of Love Pyramidal Mountains ...... 272

Chapter XV

The Natives. — Noon-day Repose.— Native Boys. — The Pilot. — Crocodile and Pelican. — A Stroll. — A Village The Pasha's Order. — Village of Ibrim. — Water-works. — A Quarrel A Festa. — A Native Dance. — Female Costume. — Village of Ermyne. — Sunset. — Village of Tammeet. — A Black Sheik Temple of Ebsambul. — Another Temple. — Verdant Moun tains ...... CONTENTS. XI

Chapter XVI

Village of Argeyn. — Approach to the Second Cataract. — My lonely state. — View of the Second Cataract. — Wady Haifa. — Interview with the Aga. — Dinner. — Present to the Aga. — The Desert. — A Halt. — The Aga's Visit. — A Gale. — Night in a Hovel A Morning Walk. — Another Aga. — A Rainbow. Preparations for shifting Quarters. — Invitation to Dinner. — Greek Soldiers. — Leave Wady Haifa. — A Temple. — A Tomb Demand for Excavating. — The Temple of Ebsambul. — Colossal Statues. — Apartments of the Temple . . . 317

Chapter XVII

Excavation commenced. — The task abandoned.— Dimensions of the Statues. — The Entrance cleared. — The Interior. — In teresting Sculpture. — Inner Chambers. — The Sanctuary. — Leave Ebsambul. — Mountain of Ibrim. — Town of Derr. — Ruined Temples. — Summons from an Aga. — An Altercation. — Diarfessen. — Interior of a Temple. — Dandour. — Kalabshe. — Extensive Ruins. — Village of Taffa. — Ruins of Kardassi. — Island of Philoe. — Magnificent Colonnade. — An Inscription. — The Grand Temple. — Its Interior Moonlight . 344

Chapter XVIII

Leave the Island. — Elephantina. — Desertion — Quarries and Excavations. — Impressment of Soldiers. — Temple of Manfa lout. — A Funeral Procession. — Temple of Esneh — Ploughed Land. — Monopoly of Sugar. — A Rejoicing. — Hermont. — Car nac. — Conduct of my Men. — Start for Eleithias. — Ruins of Eleithias. — Return to Esneh. — Crossing a Stream. — Return to Luxor. — Avenues of Sphinxes. — The Obelisks. — Mummies. — Ancient Models. — The Sarcophagus. — A Quarrel. — Passalacqua's House . . ■ • .371 CONTENTS.

Chapter XIX

A Village Feud.— Start for El Arabat — The Village.—Fer tile Tract. — A Procession. — Arrive at Gournou. — A Grand Prospect Medinet Abou Noble Ruins — Marriage Festival. — Excavating. — Medamout. — The Cemetery of Thebes. — Animated Toothpick. — Sepulchres of the Kings. — An Historical Apartment. — Gheneh. — Bivouac on the Sands. — Abstinence from Water.— The Red Sea . 397

Chapter XX

A Disappointment. — Encampment of Arabs. — Mr. Hull's Illness. — Travelling Preparations. — Cosseir. — An Accident. — Journey resumed. — Stock of Water exhausted. — A Truant Camel. — A fertile Tract.— Return to Carnac. — Gournou. — A Rebellion headed by a Prophet. — Designs of the Insurgents. — The Insurgents defeated. — The Wounded Party — The pretended Prophet. — The Governor of Luxor plundered. — Men of Gournou join the Prophet. — Proposal to murder the English. — Our Retreat prevented by sword and pestilence. LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. VOLUME I The Author in his Turkish Costume . • Frontispiece Canea in Candia 235 Village of Wardaun on the Nile 253 Pyramidal Mountains 302 Gebel Sheik Toske Mountains 310 Temple of Dandour . . . • . • • 361 Philoe 368 On part of a Couch at Gournou 401 Hieroglyphics in the Temple at Luxor (7 plates) . . 412 Well of Hammamat ....... 413 VOLUME II.

Mohammed Ali, Viceroy of Egypt . . . Frontispiece Arab on Horseback 66 Nahr-el-Kelb, or Dog River,- near Beirout ... 90 Woman of Mount Lebanon. — A Lady of Aleppo . 101 A Druse, or Akals. — A common Druse, or Djahels . 184 Nazareth 206 Church of the Holy Sepulchre 215 Tomb, or Grotto, of the Virgin Mary . . . 226 A Natural Bridge near the Source of Nahr-el-Leben . 255 A Marriage Procession in Mount Lebanon . . 292 Village of Buckfaya Page ERRATA. VOL. I. 7, line 24, for " is" read " grows." 42, 4, for " below" read " above. 45, 3, after " lands" insert " on the Pera side." 46, 2, for " the town" read " suburb of Pera." 59, 15, after " diamond" insert " ornament." 84, 17, for "fort" read "port." 107, 10, for " mounted our donkeys," say " we proceeded with our donkeys." 115, last line, after " Osman" read " the Janizary." 149, line 8, for "mile" read "mule." 151, 8, for " returning with" read "producing." 191, 26, for "Pourla" read "Vourla." 234, 27, for " it contained" read " the capital contained." 253, 18, for " Shemoon" read "Ashmoon." 254, 14, for " musquitoes" read " flies." 258, 2, for "Isment" read " Ashment." 262, 13, for " Birne" read " Brine." 289, 28, for " Philo" read " Philoe." 411, 7, for "enrolled" read "unrolled." EXCURSIONS IN THE HOLY LAND, EGYPT, NUBIA, &c.

Chapter I

Leave Naples. — Malta. — Church of St. John. — The Faldet. — Feast of St. Gregorio. — Juvenile Pick-pockets. — Medicinal Fungus. — Aerial Voyage. — Scene of St. Paul's Shipwreck — - The Boschetto. — Sail for Corfu. — Island of Corfu. — Town of Corfu. — Port of Zante. — Bitumen Wells. — Town of Zante. — Sail for Smyrna. — Arrival off Milo. — A Greek Brig The Greek Squadron. — The Greek Fleet. April 1, 1821. — Having had the mortification of seeing the Austrian army enter Naples, by which an inglorious termination was put to the insurrection of this year, I soon determined to leave that town. I did so on the above date in company with Mr. William Henry Priestley, an officer in the Commissariat Department at Malta. We procured a passage in His Majesty's schooner of-war Express, on board of which we experienced the kindest treatment from the officers.

After waiting a few hours for the dispatches of Vice admiral Sir Graham Moore, the naval commander- VOL. I. B MALTA in-chief, we embarked early in the morning, and made sail about mid-day from this land of revolu tion, folly, and cowardice. Our vessel passed through the Faro of Messina, running with the current at a rapid rate, while the sun shone with all its splendour on the Calabrian hills. On the opposite shore stood Etna, covered with snow, the mountain emitting at this period but little smoke. After a delightful passage of exactly three days, we entered the narrow, though beautiful harbour of Malta. On landing, we were met on the Ma rina by Mr. William Stevens, a gentleman well known at Malta for his marked attention to tra vellers, and from whom I afterwards experienced much civility.

I soon, indeed, found Malta a most pleasant and social place. The theatre is tolerably good ; operas are performed in it, and it possesses an excellent Prima Donna. Besides the opera-house, there is an excellent English amateur theatre, built by Mr. Stevens in 1810, during the governorship of General Sir Hilde brand Oakes, who suggested to Mr. Stevens that the introduction of English theatricals would tend to facilitate the acquirement by the natives of the English language. Mr. Stevens therefore, with that spirit of liberality so repeatedly evinced by him on various occasions during his long residence at Malta, procured at a very considerable expense a company from England. English theatricals were then introduced, and the performances were such as might have merit- CHURCH OF ST. JOHN. 3 ed the applause of a London audience.

But, the plague breaking out in 1813, the performers deemed it advisable to make their exit for old England. A passage was provided for them, a bonus given to each, and Mr. Stevens remained minus in a very large sum. The church of St. John is a splendid edifice. The interior is very striking, especially when hung round with its tapestry. The ceiling is most beau tifully sculptured, and adorned with some good paintings of the first masters. The pavement is of rich mosaic, formed by inlaid variegated marble, and by tombstones of the knights and others of the order of St. John of Jerusalem. For the beauty of this pavement the cathedral of St. John is celebrated. A tombstone is always laid down for the head of the church (the archbi shop) during his life, leaving only a blank for the date of his demise.

I again visited this church on Easter Monday, (23rd April,) when the sides of its interior were covered with rich tapes try, elegantly worked, and I should think very ancient ; the subjects were the birth, sufferings, and resurrection of our Saviour. On each side of the church are small chapels, some containing se pulchral monuments, highly finished in bronze, of the Grand Masters. The altar is of lapis-lazuli and other valuable stones. This magnificent church was despoiled by Buonaparte on his way to Egypt, almost every thing of value being carried away. The only things of consequence which escaped the notice of the French, were a pair of b THE FALDET. massy silver gates, which, to save them from pil lage, the Maltese painted black, and they were in consequence taken for iron. The organ was well played ; it had a particularly soft and sweet tone, which with the delight ful singing produced a very solemn and impres sive effect.

The building was crowded to excess, and persons kept continually entering at one door and withdrawing by another. Many of the females I noticed were very pretty and well formed. The faldet, or black-hooded calash, which they all wear, gives them a very curious and sombre appearance ; it is at times held up most gracefully by the left hand, in order to exhibit a prettily-turned arm ; and, when opportunity suits, it is brought forward or pushed back to hide or display the lovely features of the wearer ; in short, to play the coquet to advantage, at which the Maltese ladies are most expert. Under this faldet the most elegant dresses are sometimes observable. With the faldet is worn a corresponding rich black silk petticoat, which forms a walkingdress. The Maltese females are remarkable for the smallness of their feet, beautiful white teeth, and jet-black eyes.

April 26. — I attended the (Grande Festa,) feast of St. Gregorio in Casal (village) Zeitun, in com pany with Mr. Stevens. As this is one of the principal feasts in this island, I will endeavour to give some description of it. The procession was grand, its length extending for some miles ; it was composed of the country- FEAST OF ST. GREGORIO. 5 people from all the surrounding villages, who formed themselves into companies or fraternities, each devoted to a particular saint or lady-patron ess. Every one in the train was dressed in gay attire, and all appeared cheerful and happy ; some carrying crosses and banners of various colours, denoting the order or fraternity to which they belonged. Thus they proceeded to the church, the rear being brought up by the bishop and ca nons in costly mantles, accompanied by half-a dozen priests, miserably scraping some cracked violins and a crazy violoncello or two.

Here it is proper to mention that a curious but very ancient custom is observed by the females of the respec tive villages, who, on entering into the marriage state, oblige their husbands by written contract to bring them every year to this feast and to that of St. Peter and St. Paul, held at the Boschetto (a little wood) on the 30th of June. At this feast of St. Gregorio it has also invariably been the custom, that the banner carried in this procession should be supported by an unmarried man of one of the villages, for which he pays a premium, it being considered an honour and at the same time a trial of strength. The staff of the banner is of iron, cased with silver, about twenty feet in length. On approaching the principal altar in the church, dedicated to St. Gregory, the standard bearers, single-handed, wave their massive pieces of metal several times round, in presence of the numerous spectators, and the person who waves the same the greatest number of times is not only JUVENILE PICK-POCKETS. applauded by the lookers-on in the church, but is singled out by a female of the same village to which he belongs, and offers afterwards are made for matrimony by the friends of the female.

This ceremony over, they regale themselves at the different booths erected near the church, and at their friends' houses. The day is generally passed in great mirth and pleasantry, and all at length return peaceably to their respective homes. Stevens, by the by, had his pocket picked in the church of a silk handkerchief, and he informed me that thieving was practised with great dexterity by the juvenile natives, who filch from each other for the sake of acquiring the art, and actually be stow premiums on those who do it in the neatest style. We walked on to Marsa-Sirocca, which is a fine bay facing the east-north-east, where ships meeting with strong westerly winds sometimes come to an anchor. It is a quiet retired place, with only a few fishermen's hovels scattered about. At this place a number of people were diverting themselves, priests, friars, females, and persons of various descriptions, some on the shore, others paddling in fishermen's boats, with — Bands of music playing, Asses loudly braying, And boys and girls a-bathing, &c. April 28. — We sailed to the island of Gozzo, which lies about twenty miles north-west of Malta, and is the more fertile island of the two, MEDICINAL FUNGUS. 7 the valleys presenting the appearance of well cul tured gardens ; but, on the whole, the cultivation of this little island, its productions, the houses, and the dress of the inhabitants are similar to those of Malta.

It is by spme supposed to be the celebrated island of Calypso ; and the traveller is shown an aperture in the side of the rock, which is called Calypso's Grotto. On the opposite side of the island to where you land from Malta, there is a rock on which grows the celebrated medicinal plant, of a styptic qua lity, called Fungus Arelitensis ; it is of a spongy substance, and said to be of great value in cases of diarrhœa and other complaints of the bowels ; it is the sole property of the civil government, and cannot be procured, unless by its express per mission. The same with regard to the capers, which grow on all the fortifications in Malta, they being the exclusive privilege of the commanding officer of engineers. This gave rise to a wag w rising on the walls the following : — " No one is allowed to cut capers on these walls except the commanding-officer of Engineers."

The rock on which the fungus is, is separated from the land, and on all sides terminates in a steep cliff, apparently inaccessible. But the properties of this valuable plant could not escape the investigating eye of man, nor could the difficulty of reaching its situ ation baffle his art. Two cords are stretched across from the island to the rock, and fixed at each ex tremity. On these is suspended a small square wooden box, large enough to contain one person, AERIAL VOYAGE. which is drawn from side to side by means of other cords and four blocks or pulleys. This aerial voyage is not long, but I confess the suspense attending it, and the consciousness of having a tremendous gulf below you, into which you might by accident be precipitated, renders the passage any thing but pleasant. When seated in the box, you are carried with great velocity mid-way across ; you are then pulled the remain der of the way by two stout fellows, and the greatest danger is to be apprehended in getting out of the box, and crawling to the summit of the rock.

If the attendants see you are in any way timid, they let you remain for some minutes in the middle of your journey, telling you the ropes are fouled, and you cannot either get back ward or forward, so that you have to enjoy the delightful but tremendous chasm under you of some hundreds of feet. The accommodations at Gozzo are but of a middling description, and there are few things in it worth notice, beyond what we have mentioned, except the Giant's Tower, which consists of im mense stones piled on each other, the dimensions of which are so great that you would believe it to be out of all human power to put them together as they now stand. At certain seasons of the year, and particularly in the months of April and Sep tember, great quantities of quail visit this se cluded island, and as the natives are excellent shots, they are soon disposed of.

At Cuomo, a small island between Malta and Gozzo, some SCENE OF ST. PAUL'S SHIPWRECK. 9 Englishmen have introduced a stock of rabbits, whither they and a chosen few occasionally resort, pour s'amuser, with the manly pastime of shooting or otherwise destroying them. A very pretty house has been built on this island, where the sportsmen, after the fatigues of the day, partake of a good dinner, with iced wines, &c, and finish with what they term a qidet rubber at whist. In speaking of Gozzo I omitted to mention, that although it almost joins Malta, the natives have some difficulty in understanding each other, the language at Malta being corrupt Arabic, and that of Gozzo a much purer dialect of that language. On the 30th we returned, much pleased with our excursion ; but the wind being contrary we landed near to a bold rocky shore in the small Bay of St. Paolo.

In this bay, history tells us St. Paul was wrecked, Malta being anciently called Melita ; but as there is also an island in the Adriatic Sea named Melita, or Melida, the natives of it claim the honour of St. Paul's first visit. They insist that the wreck took place on their shore. Scripture informs us certainly that this saint was tossed about for many days and nights in the Sea of Adria. Having taken some refreshments here, we walked up the rocks and over the hills to Citta Vecchia, or old city, where we procured a calesse, (a small carriage,) and proceeded to Valetta, at a few hours drive from which stands a village in a ruined state, called by the English " The Desert ed Village," though its proper name is " Casal THE BOSCHETTO. Nuovo," or New Village. The French had pos session of this place before they were starved out by the British blockade of Malta ; everything in the shape of timber was destroyed by them and used for fuel.

The village still remains in this dilapidated state. It has nevertheless a few inha bitants and some good gardens. My friend, Dr. Iliff, Apothecary to the Forces, occupies one of the houses, which is in a somewhat ruinous state, but which he keeps for the sake of the gar den, and occasionally visits. Here a party of us dined under a grove of orange-trees, surrounded by beautiful geraniums, which topped the walls on either side. My friend being a good florist, the garden abounded with variously coloured and odoriferous plants, with some of the choicest vines of Muscatel and other delightful grapes. May 18. — The Boschetto is another of those beautiful situations where Flora displays her charms in the greatest profusion and loveliness. People are apt to believe on landing that there is scarcely a tree to be seen on this stony and chalky island, but let them visit this place, the gardens of St. Antonio, &c. and they will then see what Malta can and does produce in the way of floral and vegetable luxuries. 1 visited the orangery of the Boschetto Gardens, in company with Mr. Al lingham, an English artist, whose brother was known as a literary character and dramatic writer.

Here is a beautiful grotto and fountain, in the former of which parties frequently dine. We passed on through the valley, shaded by groves of SAIL FOR CORFU. 11 trees, and by the rocky mountains, and in returning, we visited what is called the Palace of the Inquisitor; the ascent to this is somewhat difficult, being very hilly and rocky without any direct path. The interior of this house or palace is in total ruin. The walls and ceiling of the great hall and of some other apartments are curiously painted in fresco. From the top of the palace there is, I think, the finest view in the island. Much de lighted with this little trip and with the fineness of the climate, though at times the heat was ex cessive, we left it with regret, and returned to Valetta. June 17. — I left Malta for Corfu, on board the Sappho schooner, Captain Powell, in company with Mr. J. Douglas Strutt.