Urquhart and Glenmoriston: olden times in a Highland parish

Preface

. The following pages are the result of much gathering, begun during rny school and college days, of the traditions and legends and songs of my native Parish, and of much searching, in more recent years, for written records referring to it. I have endeavoured to give in them a plain and accurate account of the Olden Times, and a true picture of the Past. The work is, however, that of a novice in book-writing, who has written it, for his own diversion and recreation, during hours of freedom from the labours and anxieties of a busy profes sional life ; and, while no effort has been spared to ensure accuracy of statement, the book is probably not without blemishes of a literary nature which it might have escaped in other hands, and under more favourable circumstances. I have received generous help in connection with the work.

My parents, whose wonderful store of legend and song first suggested it, and the old people, all over the Parish, whose tales at many a ceilidh are still a pleasing recollection, are now

PREFACE.

. VI beyond the reach of this expression of my gratitude ; and so is The Chisholm, who placed his family papers at my disposal. Others who helped are, happily, still with us. To Caroline, Countess Dowager of Seafield, I am especially indebted, — for free access to the numerous and invaluable ancient papers preserved at Castle Grant. My thanks are also due to Mr Fraser-Mackintosh of Drummond, for the use of interesting documents in his possession ; to Dr Dickson, Curator of the Historical Department, Register House, Edinburgh ; Mr Clark, of the Advocates' Library ; Mr Law, of the Signet Library ; the Rev. Walter Macleod, Edinburgh ; Mr Francis James Grant, W.S., Edinburgh (a worthy descendant of the learned James Grant of Corri mony) ; the Clerks of the Synod of Moray and of the Presbyteries of Inverness and Abertarff; and the officials of the Record Office, London, — for much courtesy and aid in the course of my researches ; to Provost Ross, Inverness, for the very successful "restoration" ofthe Castle, which forms the frontis piece, and for the architectural description and ground plan of the Castle ; to Mr Mackintosh, artist, Inverness, for the sketches of the Bridge of the Leap and Mac Uian's Pool ; to Mr Grant of Glen moriston, for the loan of the Killicrankie Shield, of which an illustration is given, and for the portrait of

PREFACE.

. VII Patrick^Grant, the protector of Prince Charles ; to Mrs Grant, senior, of Glenmoriston, for the drawings of Jain a' Chragain's Sword and the Glenmoriston Pillory ; to Miss Cameron, late of Lakefield, for the drawing of the Urquhart Brooch ; to the Council of the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland, for the illustrations of the Balnalick Urn ancl Bronze Blade, and of the Balmacaan Sculptured Stones ; to Mr J. R. N. Macphail, M.A., advocate, Edinburgh, who has, at great trouble, revised almost all the proof-sheets ; to Mr Alexander Macbain, M.A., Inverness, who, in connection with the appendix on Place-Names, has freely given me out of the abundance of his Celtic learning ; to my father-in-law, Mr John Mackay, Hereford, author of " Sutherland Place-Names," for valuable suggestions on the same subject ; and to my Wife, who has relieved me of much of the labour connected with the transcription of old writings.

It has' been thewill of Fate that the story ofthe Parish should be told by the last man who has a home'or a holding in it of a family who, for centuries, acted some little part in' that story. I hope I am doing the old place a service and not a wrong by publishing it. I trust, also, that no one will find cause of offence in anything I have recorded concerning his or her forefathers. It is the duty of the historian, however humble he or his subject may

PREFACE.

. be, to tell his tale truthfully and without favour ; and I bave, in endeavouring to act up to that duty, experienced the pain of having to record unpleasant things, not only about my own forbears, but also regarding ancestors and relatives of some of my best friends on earth. The only comforting reflection is that the men of the Past ought not to be judged by the moral standard of the Present. WILLIAM MACKAY. Craigmonie, Inverness, Christmas, 1893. CONTENTS.

Chapter I. Olden Times In The

PARISH— BEFORE 1296. PAOt The Early Ages. — Physical and Climatic Changes. — Early Man. — The Caledonii. — The Picts. — Urehard in Moravia. — The Legendary Origin of Loch Ness. — The Children of Uisneach. — The Wars of the Picts. — The End of their Kingdom. — Incursions of the Norse. — Monie, Son of the King of Scandinavia. — The Conflict of Craigmonie. — The Risings of the Moraymen. — Conachar in Urquhart. — The Big Dog and the Wild Boar. — Origin of the Forbeses, Mackays, and Urquharts.— The Harrying of the Church Lands. — The Pope's Protection to the Church of Urquhart. — Gillespie MacScolane's Deeds and Death. — Urquhart Granted to Thomas Durward. — Sir Alan Durward. — Dispute regarding Church Lands. — The Settlement. — Sir Alan's Death. — The Cummings ............

Chapter II. Olden Times In The

PARISH— 1296 to 1362. Edward I. Invades Scotland. — John of Glen-Urquhart. — Urquhart Castle taken by the English. — Sir William Fitzwarine Constable.— He is harassed by Andrew Moray. — A Sabbath Day's Journey and Fight. — The Countess of Ross in Urquhart. — Moray Besieges the Castle. — Death of William Puer and Fitzwarine's Son. — An Army of Relief. — The Kind's Instructions. — Fitzwarine's Letter to the King. — Sir William Wallace. — The English Expelled from Urquhart. — Forbes Constable. — Fitzwarine in Prison. — His Wife's Devotion. — Edward's Great Invasion. — The English again in Urquhart. — Forbes and his Garrison put to the Sword. — His Wife's Escape. — Sir Alexander Cumming Constable. — Bruce. — Thomas Randolph, Proprietor of Urquhait and Glenmoriston. — His Highland Followers. — His Regency X CONTENTS. 59 and Administration of Justice.— His Murder. — Death of his Son, Thomas Randolph.— John Randolph.— Sir Robert Lauder holds the Castle against Baliol.— His Visitors at the Castle. — Sir Robert Chisholm. — John Randolph slain, and Chisholm made Prisoner. — Chisholm Constable of the Castle. — Death of lauder.— His Character . . .18

Chapter III. Olden Times In The

PARISH— 1346 TO 1455. The Barony of Urquhart Reverts to the Crown. — Is Granted to the Earl of Sutherland. — Acquired by the Earl of Stratherne — Sir Robert Chisholm. — His Urquhart Possessions go to the Wolf of Badenoch. — Stratherne Lets the Barony to the Wolf.— The Wolf withholds the Rent. — A Royal Quarrel. — Appeal to the King. — The Wolf and the Bishop. — The Burning of Elgin Cathedral. — Thomas Chisholm. — The Wolf's Death. — Scramble for His Possessions. — Urquhart Seized by Donald of the Isles. — Charles Maclean. — Parliament deals with the Castle. — The Red Harlaw. — The Barony Possessed by the Earl of Mar. — Claimed by the Duke of Albany. — A Compromise. — The Castle Repaired by the King. — Death cf Mar. — The Lord of the Lies Seizes the Barony. — Hector Buie Maclean's Exploits.— The Tragedy of Caisteal Spioradan. — Ogilvy of Balfour holds the Castle for the King. — The Castle Taken by John of the Isles. — No Rent. — Parliament Annexes the Barony and Castle to the Crown . . . . . -'iS

Chapter IV. Olden Times In The

PARISH— 1455 to 1509. The Lordship of Urquhart Granted to the Lord of the Isles for Life. — He and his Highlanders in England. — His RebeUion and Attainder. — The Earl of Huntly iu charge of the Lordship and Castle. — The Macleans claim Urquhart. — Their Position and Power. — A Thirty Years' War. — The Lordship Let to the Baron of Kilravock. — Opposition to him. — Arbitration. — Bonds of Friendship.— Strange League against the Baron. — He throws up his Lease. — The Parish Waste. — Sir Duncan Grant to the Rescue. — His connection with the District. — The Conflict of Foyers. — The Red Bard in Urquhart. — Struggle for the Lordship. — Lease to the Bard. — The Bard King's Chamberlain. — He Trades with the King. — The Lordship Granted to Himself and his Sons Absolutely. — The Reasons for the Grants CONTENTS. XI 77 94

Chapter V. Olden Times In The

PARISH— 1509 to 1535. The Charters of 1509. — The New Baronies of Urquhart, Corrirnony, and Glenmoriston. — Reservation of Church Lands. — The Proprietors' Duties and Services to the Crown. — The Castle to be added to and Strengthened. — The Inhabitants to be Protected. — Waste Lands to be Reclaimed. — The King's Highway to be Improved. — Bridges to be Maintained. — Hemp and Flax to be Cultivated. — Strange Division of the Parish. — Gradual Re-adjustment of Marches. — Troubles with the Inhabitants. — Troubles with the Crown. — Compositions for Crimes. The Last of the Macleans. — Invasion of Sir Donald of Lochalsh. — A Large Bootv. — Prices of the Period. — The Bard's Proceedings against Sir Donald. — The Bard's Treaty with Lochiel. — Death of the Bard. — Seumas nan Creach. — Barbarous Decree against the Clan Chattan. — Urquhart Exempted from the Jurisdiction of Local Courts.

Chapter VI. Olden Times In The

PARISH— 1544 to 1560. Troubles in the Western Highlands. — Feud between Ranald Gallda and John of Moidart. — The Lairds of Grant and Glenmoriston assist Ranald. — Battle of Blar-nan-Leine. — Glengarry and Lochiel invade Glenmoriston and Urquhart. — The Great Raid. — The Spoil and the Despoiled. — Urquhart Burnt. — Incidents of the Raid. — The Strong Woman of Richraggan. — The Big Smith of Polmaily. — His Adventures with the Fairies. — A Wonderful Filly. — The Smith's Sons Slain. — Legal Proceedings against Glengarry and Lochiel. — Their Lands Apprised to the Lairds of Grant and Glenmoriston. — Glenmoriston's Death. — His Character and Influence. — Dispute regarding his Succession. — The Ballindalloch Feud. — Death of the Laird of Grant. — Sad State of the Country. — The Justiciar of Urquhart and Glenmoriston. — A Ghastly Gift to the Queen Regent. — The Reformation. — The Church's Patrimony Alienated.— John Mackay acquires Achmonie. — The other Church Lands fall to the Grants

Chapter VII. Olden Times In The

PARISH— 1566 to 1626. The Camerons and Clan Ranald plan another Raid. — Mackintosh and Mackenzie of Kintail ordered to protect the Parish. — League of Loyalty to Queen Mary. — The lien of Urquhart and Glenmoriston iu Arms for her. — Their March into the South. — Urquhart Feu-duties applied toward the Queen's Maintenance in Lochleven Castle. — Patrick Grant CONTENTS. XII 118 136 of Glenmoriston invades Ardclach. — He Marries the Thane of Cawdor's Daughter. — The Thane Builds Invermoriston House.— Iain Mor a' Chaisteil of Glenmoriston. — His Combat with an Englishman. — His Fir Candles in London. — His Influence and Acquisitions. — Appointed Chamberlain of Urquhart. — He Murders a Packman. — Criminal Letters against him. — Feud between the Macdonalds and the Mackenzies. — The Raid of Kilchrist.— The Conflict of Lon-na-Fala.— Allan of Lundie's Leap. — The Murder of the Mason of Meall-a'-Ghro.— Bonds of Friendship between the Laird of Grant, and Glengarry, and Allan of Lundie. — A Big Timber Transaction. — The Laird saves Allan .

Chapter VIII. Olden Times In The

PARISH— 1603 to 1640. 1 he Proscribed Macgregors seek Shelter in Urquhart ard Glenmoriston. — Their Harbourers Fined. — Their Evil Influence on the Men of Urquhart. — Doule Shee's Raid. — Commission of Fire and Sword. — ■ Housebreaking at Balmacaan. — The Carron and Ballindalloch Feud. Career of Seumas an Tuim. — His Supporters in Urquhart and Glenmoriston. — The Castle Repaired. — The Clan Chattan in Urquhart. — Their Friends Prosecuted. — The Earl of Moray Persecutes Grant of Glenmoriston. — Grant visits the King, and His Majesty Intervenes. — Death of Glenmoriston and the Laird of Grant. — The Story of the Covenant. — The Covenant adhered to by the Lairds of Grant and Glenmoriston. — Opposed by the Parish Minister and Lady Mary Ogilvy, Liferentrix of Urquhart. — A Short Conflict. — The .Minister Yields. — Attempts to stent Urquhait for the Army of the Covenant. ■Lady Mary's Concessions

Chapter IX. Olden Times In The

PARISH— 1643 to 1647. The Solemn League aud Covenant. — Montrose and Alasdair Mac Cholla Chiataich take the side of the King. — The Laird of Grant and the Tutor of Glenmoriston hold aloof. — Alasdair' s Requisition on the Tutor. — The Tutor's Trick. — A Brilliant Campaign. — Battle of Inverlochy. — The Laird of Grant sends Men to Montrose. — The Covenanters invade Glen-Urquhart.— Lady Ogilvy Robbed aud driven out of the Parish. — Her Appeal to her Son. — Undertaking to Support the King. — Montrose's Description of the Laird's Recruits. — Urquhart Men Killed at the Battle of Auldearu. — Montrose's Highlanders in Glen- Urquhart. — Raid upun the Aird. — Lovat calls upon the Chisholm to drive the Royalists out of the Parish. — Disputes and Notarial Writs. — CONTENTS. XIII Montrose's Vengeance on the Frasers. — His Skirmish in Glenmoriston. — His Exile. — Huntly takes the Field for the King. — Middleton Defeats him in Glenmoriston. — Lady Ogilvy 's Troubles and Death. — Feud between her Tenants and those of Glenmoriston. — A Fight at a Funeral.— Death of the Big Miller.— The Condition of the Castle . 150

Chapter X. Olden Times In The

PARISH— 1650 TO 1668. Landing of Charles II. — He is supported by the Laird of Grant. — Patrick of Clunemore at Worcester. — The Fate of his Followers. — Cromwell's Soldiers in the North. — Glencairn's Rising for the King. — Lochiel and Kenmure in Urquhart. — Middleton supersedes Glencairn. — Middleton pursued by Monck. — Monck in Glenmoriston and Kintail. — Middleton Defeated. — Dalziel of Binns and Himself in Glenmoriston and Strathglass. — The Chisholm tried by Court-Martial, and Fined and Imprisoned. — The English place the First Ship on Loch Ness. — The Story of the Event. — Peace and Prosperity. — The Restoration. — The Caterans Let Loose. — The Hanging of Hector Maclean. — The Burning of Buntait. — Dispute between Glenmoriston and Inshes. — Glenmoriston Burns the Barns of Culcabock. — He seizes Inshes and keeps him Prisoner. — Is Apprehended by the Robertsons of Struan. — The Dispute Settled. — Donald Donn and Alary Grant. — Donald's Career, Capture, and Death .......... 166

Chapter XI. Olden Times In The

PARISH— 1670 to 1690. The Laird of Grant's Chamberlain Killed by Mackay of Achmonie. — Mackay forced to Surrender Achmonie to the Laird. — Fatal Fight in Slochd-Muic. — Achmonie conferred on William Grant. — Restored to the Mackays. — Thomas Grant of Ealmacaan. — Culduthel's Raid on Borlum. — The Castle Repaired. — The Monmouth Rebellion. — Unsettled State of the Country. — The Men of Urquhart and Glenmoriston support King James. — The Revolution. — The Laird of Grant supports William and Mary. — The Men of Urquhart and Glenmoriston adhere to James. — Dundee's Campaign. — The Camerons' Raid on Urquhart. — Quarrels in Dundee's Camp. — Killicrankie. — Adventures of Men of Urquhart and Glenmoriston in the Battle. —Iain a' Chragain's Troubles. — Invermoriston House Burnt, and Glenmoriston Devastated. — A Whig Garrison in Urquhart Castle. — The Castle Besieged by the Jacobites.— Supplies for the Garrison. — The Haughs of Cromdale. — Close of the War CONTENTS.

Chapter XII. Olden Times In The

PARISH— 1690 TO 1708. The Parish unsettled.— The Castle Garrisoned by the Whigs.— They Vacate ancl Destroy it.— Its Last Record. — Its Chambers of Treasure and Pestilence. — King William's Measures to Subdue the Highlands. —Devastation of Urquhart.— The Losses of the Laird of Grant and his Tenants. — Compensation recommended by Parliament, but refused by the King. — Insecurity of Life and Property. — Raids and Daekerings. — Proceedings against Achmonie. — Raids by Glenmoriston Men jjn Dalcross, Glencannich, and Dunain. — Colonel Hill endeavours to stop their Adventures. — Horses Stolen from Shewglie. — The Track. and its Result. — The Macmillans of Loeh-Arkaig-side take a Spoil from Glenmoriston. — The Fight of Corri-nam-Bronag. — The Raid of Inchbrine. —The Conflict of Corribuy.— Death of Shewglie. — His Son's Revenge. — Death of Gille Dubh nam Mart 210"

Chapter XIII. Olden Times In The

PARISH— 1693 to 1736. Fairs Established in Glen-Urquhart. — Erection of the Regality of Grant. — Sir Ludovick Grant acquires Abriachan, Culnakirk, aud Clunemore. — He makes over Urquhart to Brigadier Grant. — The Brigadier's Career. — The Fifteen. — The Brigadier on the Side of King George. — The Men of Urquhart and Glenmoriston support the Chevalier — Glengarry and Glenmoriston iu Argyll. — Sheriffmuir. — Keppoch's Raid on Urquhart. — The Brigadier and the Jacobites of Urquhart. — Attainder of Iain a' Chragain. — Invermoriston House Burnt, and Glenmoriston Forfeited. — The Forfeited Estates Commissioners and their Difficulties.— The Court of Sir Patrick Strachan.— The Battle of Glenshiel — The Commissioners' Factors. — The Factors in Glenmoriston. — Patrick Grant joins Donald Murchison. — The Fight of Ath-nam-Muileach. — General Wade. — Fort-Augustus Built. — Wade'sRoads. — Galley placed on Loch Ness. — Glenmoriston Purchased for Iain a' Chragain. — The Price and its Application. — Iain a' Chragain's Death. -His Career and Character 225

Chapter XIV. Olden Times In The

PARISH— 1719 to 1746. Sir James Grant.— The Forty-Five.— The Three Alexanders of Urquhart Support Prince Charles.— A Message of Welcome to the Prince. Agitation and Threatenings. — Jacobite Recruits from Urquhart and Glenmoriston.— Ludovick Grant's Policy of Caution.— The Prince's CONTENTS. XV 21 271 Letter to the Gentlemen of Urquhart. — His Cause Espoused by the Minister. — A Sabbath-Day's Meeting in Support of the Prince. — The Factor's Reports to Ludovick. — Ludovick's Letters to the Factor. — Patrick Grant of Glenmoriston joins the Prince. — Their First Inter view. — Prestonpans. — Colonel Macdonell's Demand. — Achmonie's Mission to Castle Grant. —Ludovick's Message to the Gentlemen of Urquhart. — Macdonell in Urquhart. — An Interrupted March. — The Macdonalds and the Frasers in Urquhart. — The Conference of Torshee. — Doubts and Hesitations. — Corrimony and Achmonie visit Ludovick. — The Earl of Cromartie, the Master of Lovat, and Macdonald of Barisdale in the Parish. — Achmonie's Undertaking to the Laird of Grant. — The Cause of the Prince Prospers in the Parish. — The Factor in Despair. — The Prince's Arrival in Inverness. — New Recruits from Urquhart ............

Chapter XV. Olden Times In The

PARISH— 1746. The Battle of Falkirk. — The Duke of Cumberland in Scotland. — Prince Charles at Inverness. — Cumberland Crosses the Spey. — The Men of Urquhart aud Glenmoriston Summoned to join the Prince. —Culloden. — Incidents of the Battle and Flight. — Alexander Grant's Exploits. — Heroic Wives. — Ludovick Grant and his Eight Hundred in Urquhart. Rebel -Hunting. — Protections Promised, and the Men of Urquhart and Glenmoriston Surrender. — Fears and Forebodings. — Treachery. — Despair and Maledictions. — Ludovick's Intercession and its Result. — Shewglie and his Son and the Minister in Tilbury Fort.— Shewglie's Death. — Release of his Son and the Minister. — Banishment to Barbadoes. — The Fate of the Exiles. — Notices of some who Returned. — Donald Mackay. — William Grant. — Donald Macmillan. — Alexander Grant. — Donald Grant. — Alexander Ferguson. — Donald Ferguson

Chapter XVI. Olden Times In The

PARISH— 1746 to 1747. T3ie Government's Treatment of Ludovick Grant. — Glen-Urquhart Harried by the English Cavalry. — The Blanket Raid. — Invermoriston House Burnt, and the Glenmoriston People Plundered. — Cumberland at Fort- Augustus. — Atrocities in Glenmoriston. — A Reign of Terror. — The Story of Roderick Mackenzie. — Cattle Dealing between English Soldiers and Southern Drovers. — Gay Life in the English Camp. — Horse-Racing Extraordinary. — The Seven Men of Glenmoriston. — The Wanderings of Prince Charles. — The Prince in Glenmoriston. — His CONTENTS. Three Weeks' Life with the Seven Men.— An Oath of Secrecy and Fidelity. — The Prince's Movements*— His Escape. — His Appearance and Habits. — Devotion of the Seven Men.— The English leave Fort- Augustus. — Famine and Pestilence in the Parish. — The Use of Arms and the Wearing of the Highland Dress Prohibited. — A Terrib'e Oath.— Results of Culloden.— Close of the Olden Times . . .291

Chapter XVII. The Church In The

PARISH— BEFORE THE REFORMATION. Introduction of Christianity. — St Ninian and Ternan. — The Temple, or St Ninian's Chapel. — The Story of Merchard. — His Church in Glenmoriston. — Traditions Concerning Him. — His Wonderful Bell. — Drostan, Patron Saint of Urquhart.— His Chaplainry and Croft. — Relapse of the People into Paganism.— St Columba's Mission. — Marvellous Deeds in the District of Loch Ness. — Opposition of the Druids. — Columba in Urquhart. — Conversion of Emchat and Virolec. — Invermoriston Church. — Columba's Well. — St Adamnan. — The Church of Abriachan. — The Mission of Curadan. — The Church of Corrimony. — Gorman. — The Churches of Lag an t-Seapail, Achnahannet, Pitkerrald, Kilmichael, aud Kilmore. — The Celtic Clergy and their Services. — Fall of the Druids. — Their Religion and its Remains. — Struggle between the Celtic Church and Romanism. — The Roman Church Established. — Origin of Parishes and Church Endowments. — Erection of the Parish of Urquhart. — The Parish Church and its Property. — The Chapels and their Crofts. — The Chancellor of Moray. — The Clergy of the Church and Chapels. — The Reformation. — The Parish Priest turns Protestant. — Loss of the Church Lands in the Parish. — The People Spiritually Destitute 320

Chapter XVIII. The Church In The

PARISH— FROM THE REFORMATION TO THE REVOLUTION. The Church of the Reformation. — John Knox's Superintendents. — Episcopacy. — Presbytery Established.— Scarcity of Preachers.— Exhorters and Readers. — Mr James Farquharson, Exhorter in Urquhart. — The Parish under the Charge of Andrew McPhail.— John McAllan, first Protestant Minister.— The Rev. Alexander Grant.— New Churches.— Grant's Troubles with the Church Courts. — He Resists the Covenant, CONTENTS. XVII but is Forced to Subscribe. — The Rev. Duncan Macculloch. — His Want of Maintenance, and Troublous Career. — His Deposition. — A Six Years' Vacancy. — Restoration of Episcopacy. — Macculloch Rein stated. — A Presbyterial Visitation. — Lamentable State of the Parish. —Macculloch's Resignation. — How he Slew a Glenmoriston Man. — Loose and Unruly Walking in the Parish. — Searching for a Minister. — The Rev. James Grant. — His Presbyterial Trials. — Induction Cere monies. — Persecution of Roman Catholics. — Papal Statistics of the Parish. — The Rev. Robert Monro Appointed Preacher in Abertarff and Glenmoriston. — His Difficulties, Privations, and Irregularities. — Lord Lovat's Midnight Marriage. — Presbyterial Visitation of Urquhart. — Peace and Prosperity. — The Elders. — The Rev. Robert Cumming. — Monro's Protest. — Prelacy in the Parish. — Troubles in the Church. — The Revolution. — Presbytery Re- Established . . . . . 345

Chapter XIX. The Church In The

PARISH— FROM THE REVOLUTION TO THE DISRUPTION. Episcopacy in the Parish. — The Rev. Robert Cumming remains Episcopalian, but retains the Living. — Cumming and the Presbyterian Clergy. — The State of the Parish. — Presbyterian Missionaries.— Presbytery Meetings in the Parish. — The Rev. William Gordon. — A Missionary Preacher Settled in Glenmoriston. — The Rev. John Grant. — He Favours Prince Charles and is Imprisoned in England. — His Death and Character. — The Rev. James Grant. — The Rev. James Fowler. — Troubles in the Parish. — The Meetings of Duncan of Buntait. — The Factor Interferes and Mysteriously Dies.— The Rev. James Doune Smith. — Charges of Immorality. — The People Desert the Church. — Presbyterial Enquiry. — Smith Interdicts the Presbytery. — The Disruption. — The Rise, Influence, and Character of the Men. — State of Religion in Glenmoriston. — The Rev. Robert Monro. — Royal Bounty Missionaries. — Glenmoriston Erected into a Parish quoad sacra. — Churches and Chapels in Olden Times. — Worship and ■Church Service in the Past. — Legends and Relics of the Saints. — Festival Days.— Gaelic Liturgy. — The Gaelic Bible. — Gaelic Tunes. — The Sabbath in Olden Times. — Sports and Pleasures. — Sunday Christenings and Penny Weddings. — Lykewakes. — Introduction of Puritanism. — Its Progress and Effects ....... CONTENTS.

Chapter XX. Education And Culture In The Parish

1-3 lucation before the Reformation. — The Parochial System. — Unsuccessful Attempts to Plant Schools in the Parish. — The First School. — Charity Schools at Duldreggan, Milton, Pitkerrald, and Bunloit. — The First Parish School. — Subsequent Agencies. — The Education Act. — Old Salaries. — Old School Books. — Gaelic in Schools. — Old Punishments. — Cock-fighting and other Sports. — Urquhart Authors. — James Grant of Corrimony. — Charles Grant. — Lord Glenelg. — Sir Robert Grant. — James Grant. — John Macmillan. — Buchanan Macmillan, King's Printer. — Patrick Grant. — James Grassie. — Angus Macdonald. — William Grant Stewart. — William Somerled Macdonald. — James Grant, Balnaglaic. — Allan Sinclair.— Tlie Bards of the Parish. — Iain Mac Eobhainn Bhain. — Ewen Macdonald. — Shewglie and his Daughter. — Alasdair Mac Iain Bhain. — Iain Mac Dhughaill. — John Grant. — Archibald Grant. — Angus Macculloch. — Lewis Cameron. — Angus Macdonald. — William Mackay. — Survival of Bardism .... 39$

Chapter XXI. Folk-lore In The Parish

1 ii'cay of Folk-lore. — Decline of the Ceilidh. — Satan in the Parish. — His Conflicts with the Men. — The Death of the Factor. — Fair Ewen of the Goblin. — Hags and Goblins. — Cailleach a' Chrathaich. — Destruction of the Macmillans. — Cailleach Allt-an-Diinain. — Death of Macdougalls and Macdonalds. — Cailleach Allt-Saigh. — Cailleach Chragain-na- Cailleach. — Donald Macrae's Adventure. — Daibhidh and Mor of Corri- Dho. — Their Feud against the Men of Urquhart. — Bocan na Sleabhaich.— The White Mare of Corri-Dho.— The Death of Alasdair Cutach. — The Fairies and their Haunts. —Theft of Mothers and Babes. — Other Depredations. — Fairy Love-making and its Results. — Gay Life in Fairy Knowes.— The Fairy Smith of Tcrnashee.— The Witches of the Parish. — Their Pastimes and Pursuits. — Divination. — Dead Men and Demon Cats.— A Famous Seer.— The Evil Eye.— Second Sight. — Sacrifices and Safeguards 417" CONTENTS. XIX

Chapter XXII. Industrial And Social Life In The Parish

< 'rigin and History of Agriculture and Land-Ownership. — Davachs and other Divisions. — Rise and Fall of Population. — Sub-Division of Holdings. — The Occupiers of the Soil. — Origin of the Crofter. — Leases. — Agricultural Productions and Customs. — Ancient Trade in Cattle, Skins, Wool, and Furs. — Rents and Services — Foundation of Lewistown and Milton. — Famines. — Game Laws. — An Ancient Royal Forest. — Timber Traffic. — Trades. —Old Industries. — Copper Mine. — Iron Works. — Lime Manufacture. — Distaff and Spindle. —Linen and Woollen Factories.— Introduction of Spinning Wheels. — Ale. — An Ancient Brew-House. — Whisky-Making. — Modern Breweries. — Roads and Bridges. — Traffic on Loch Ness. — Ancient Boats. — Cromwell's Frigate. — The Highland Galley. — Steamboats. — Highland Hospitality. — Inns. — Samuel Johnson at Aonach. — The Dwellings of the Past. — Modern Improvements. — Law and Order. — Sanctuaries. — Baron Courts and their Procedure. — Curious Administrative Division of the Parish. — Church Courts. — The Poor. — Social Customs. — Fights and Feuds. — Modern Changes. — The Conclusion ....... 437 APPENDICES.

Appendix A : Description of Urquhart Castle 467 Appendix B : I. Details of Spoil taken from Glenmoriston in October, 1544 . . 471 II. Details of Spoil taken from Tenants in Glen-Urquhart in April and May, 1545 471 Appendix C : I. Lease by the Bishop of Moray to John Mackay and his Wife, of Achmonie. 1554 479 II. Lease by the Laird of Grant to Donald Cumming of Dulshangie, of Meikle Pitkerrald. 1660 480 III. Articles of Agreement between James Grant, Esquire of Grant [afterwards Sir James Grant], and James Dollas, Mason at Garthkeen. 1770 482 Appendix D : Charter by the Bishop of Moray, to John Mackay and his Wife and Son, of Achmonie. 1557 .... .... CONTENTS. XX Appendix E : Donald Donn ■ .487 Appendix F : Proceedings Brigadier Grant against Alexander Mac Uisdean Glass, in Buntait, and his Mother . . . . . . .490 Appendix G : Accompt Ludovick Colquhoun of Luss, with the Publick, for the Purchase Money of the Estate late of John Grant, late of Glenmoriston, attainted . . . . . . ... . 493 Appendix H : I. A List of the Persons in Urquhart who were Concerned in the Rebellion, Surrendered themselves Prisoners to Sr. Ludovick Grant, and were by him brought in to Inverness. 1746 . .491 II.

A List of all the Men in Glenmoriston that Surrendered themselves to Sr. Ludovick Grant, May the 4th, and by him delivered to his Royall Highness the Duke of Cumberland, May the 5th, 1746 495 III. List of Arms Surrendered to Ludovick Grant at Balmacaan, May, 1746 498 Appendix I : Report of the Cattle and other Effects taken by the Army from the Country of Urquhart in 1746 . 499 Appendix J : Extract from Bishop Forbes' " Lyon in Mourning " . . . . 501 Appendix K : The Seven Men of Glenmoriston 502 Appendix L : Notices of the Principal Families of the Parish . 505 Appendix M : Letters of Collation by the Bishop of Moray in favour of Sir John Donaldson to the Chaplainry of St Ninians. 1556. . . . 515 Appendix N : Stipend of the Parish Minister at various periods .... 518 Appendix 0 : Selections from the Productions of the Bards 519 Appendix P : Baron Court Records . . . . . ., . . . 545 Appendix Q : I. Abstract Accompt of the Bussiness done at the Manufactureing Station of Glenmoriston and Neighbourhood Dy me, Alexander Shaw, Undertaker for said Station, the year 1764 . . .