British Columbia and Vancouver's Island, comprising a description of these dependencies: their physical character, climate, ... Also an account of the manners and customs of the Native Indians. With a comprehensive map

Front matter

A DESCBIPTION OP BRITISH COLUMBIA AND VANCOUVER'S ISLAND LOVDOI? FEINTED BY SPOTTI8WOODE AND CO. NETV-STKEET SQUARE BRITISH COLUMBIA AND VANCOUVER'S ISLAND COMPBISINQ A DESCRIPTION OP THESE DEPENDENCIES : THEIR PHYSICAL CHARACTER, CLIMATE, CAPABILITIES, POPULATION, TRADE, NATURAL HISTORY, GEOLOGY, ETHNOLOGY, GOLD-FIELDS, AND FUTURE PROSPECTS ALSO Jiii us \\t fpatmm ani Customs as % fjfatito fittots BY DUNCAN GEORGE FORBES MACDONALD, CE. (Late of the Government Survey Staff of British Columbia, and of the International Boundary Line of North America) Author of ' What the Farmers may do with the Land ' 'The Paris Exhibition ' ' Decimal Coinage ' &c. WITH A COMPREHENSIVE MAP SECOND EDITION LONDON LONGMAN, GREEN, LONGMAN, ROBERTS, & GREEN

Preface

. — ♦ — There has issued from the press a host of articles relative to the colonies of British Columbia and of Vancouver's Island, many of which give ample proof that the writers were either ignorant of what they were writing about, or that they were actuated by motives which could meet with little or no sympathy in England. I am aware that the nooks, and not the arena, of life afford the best refreshment and the most repose. A sense of duty and kindly feeling to the emigrating people of this country induce me, however, to publish a faithful account of British Columbia and Vancouver's Island, in the hope of doing away, to some extent at least, with the misapprehension which exists in regard to the peculiar eligibility of these wild and remote regions as a field of settlement. Whilst I entertain not the slightest doubt as to the richness and extent of auriferous country in British Columbia, and, moreover, believe that its products of gold have more than rivalled those of California or Australia during the corresponding periods of their history, I am also clearly of opinion that its minerals must for long, if not for ever, constitute its principal source of wealth, the country being VI

PREFACE.

. not naturally calculated to become, either agriculturally or pastorally, a rich or great province. Indeed, the characteristic feature of this dependency is its richness in gold. It was this which led to its being separated from the Hudson's Bay territories, and being created a distinct colony. It is surely highly censurable, cruel, and unjust, therefore, to induce the sons and daughters of the mother-country to migrate to these distant shores by glowing misrepresentations of the capabilities of the soil and geniality of the climate. Vancouver's Island, it may be here observed, is a distinct colony, possessing many advantages not to be found in British Columbia. I may safely affirm that, in producing this work, I have no interests to promote except those of truth and the prosperity of intending emigrants.

Indeed, I can have no possible inducement to advance statements unwar ranted by facts, or opinions which are not well grounded ; and, feeling sensible that the value of a book depends upon the opportunities afforded to the author of seeing what he describes, such information only as has been verified in this way, or has at least been received on the most undoubted authority, will be placed before the reader. It may not be unimportant, therefore, to men tion that, having been employed professionally for months together by the Chief Commissioner of Lands and Works of British Columbia, and by the British North American Boundary Commission, as well as by private individuals, few, if any, have had the same advantages of observation.

PREFACE.

. VII Whilst sketching the peculiarities of the country, its soil, climate, and marvellous wealth in gold, I have introduced a mass of information interesting to the general reader, in the hope of rendering the volume worthy of a favourable reception. D. G. F. M. Parliament Street, London, SW. : June 18G2. CONTENTS.

Chapter I

Geographical Position of British Columbia— Extent and General Appearance of the Mainland — Mountains — Lakes — Rivers — Forests — Coast — Harbours — Warm Springs — The Capital, New Westminster — Population — The Hudson's Bay Company Page 1 "to CHAPTER H. Climate — Soil — Geological Researches — Natural Productions — Mineral Wealth of the Country — Colonial Estimates for 1862 — Laws — Want of Postal Arrangements — Country not adapted to Agricultural Pursuits — Salt Marsh, little or no Prairie — A Plague of Mosquitoes — Luxuries of London ought not to be expected in the Backwoods — Privations and Change of Social Position in a new Country — Romantic Hopes — Wealth and Labour — Superiority of Educated Labour in the Wilderness — Agriculture, to flourish, must have a Market for its surplus Productions 20

Chapter III

British Columbia not a Pastoral Country — Opinion of the Attorney- General — The beautiful Prairies of America — Some Places desirable for Settlement — Agriculture an Element of National Wealth — Wise Policy pursued in the States of America — Obstacles to Settlement in British Columbia — Evil Consequences — The Peasantry in every Country the Honey-Bees — Correspondence with the Chief Commissioner relative to the Purchase of Lands — Speculators get the Land — Free Grants of Land ought to be given — The Valley of the Ottawa in Canada — It is impolitic to beggar the Settler — Opinion of the Grand Jury of British Columbia — Scores gaping for dead Men's Shoes — To Men of Capital the Colony presents a remunerative Field — The crafty blood-thirsty Indian — Extract from the London Times X CONTENTS.

Chapter IV

The Gold Mines — Great Excitement — The Reaction — Gold fine — Extent of the Auriferous Country — Experience of California — Statistics of the Produce of the Columbian and Californian Mines and of the Mining Population — Season for Mining on the Fraser — Culmination of the Fraser River Excitement — Conduct of the Government — Gold usually found in the Mountain-Streams and Rivers — The Californian Mines — Value of Mining Claims — To get Money the Aim of all — Shrieks of Murder at Night — The Passes infested with Indians — Black Sand found at the Fraser — The Miner's Grave — Instances of the Extravagance of Miners — Strange eventful History of a Cat — How Mining Speculations are done — The precious Metal ' doctored ' — Swindling of the Broker: how done — Accounts from the Quesnell River — Silver Ore in British Columbia — The Silver Mines of Mexico — Harsh Treatment of the Miners — Table of Distances to the Stations on the Routes to the Mines by Fraser River — Condition of Trails and Cost of improving them — The Masqueraded Friend — Route via, Columbia River and the Dallas — Table of Distances — Cariboo the new El Dorado — Extracts from the Times and Daily Telegraph . Page 73

Chapter V

The Human Species — Aborigines of British North America — Prominent Features in the Life and Character of the Indians — Slaves horribly Abused — The ' Medicine Man ' and the Dead — Mode of Scalping — Young Indians more savage than the Old — Horrible Modes of Torture — Barbarous Conduct of an old Squaw — Shocking Cruelties to an Old Man and Instance of Cannibalism — Horrible Massacre of Emigrants — Cruel Custom of getting rid of the Aged — The Native Beauty — The Indian Villages or Wigwams — The Conjuror seeks the Lost Spirit — Pantomimic Entertainments of the Indians — The Burlesque of a Clergyman — A Bear in the Wigwam — The Blanket Feast — The Indians must disappear before the March of Civilisation — Mr. Roebuck on the Aboriginal Races — The Bishop of Columbia too sanguine — Pere Cheraus the Priest — The good Father's Enthusiasm — Bishop Hill and the young Savages — Instance of Indian Revenge — Touching Instance of Parental Affection — The Chiefs Grave — The Wild Rose 125

Chapter VI

Natural History of British Columbia — Absence of Animal Life — Tetrao Obscurm — Tetrao Richardsoni — Species of Crane — Land Animals — Amphibious Animals — Large-horned Owl White-headed Eagle — Magpie — ' Bird of Liberty ' — Gold-winged Wood- CONTENTS. XI pecker — Condor — Black Eagle of Pallas — Musk-rat — ' Half-breed ' Trappers more treacherous than the Aborigines — Curiosity in Natural History — Squirrel, when Cooked, a delicious Morsel — Variety of Fish — The Salmon excellent eating — Piscatory Advantages of British Columbia very great — Immense Immigration of Salmon — Salmon a Race of Suicides — The Hudson's Bay Company and Fishcuring — Reptiles and Insects Page 172

Chapter VII

British Columbia presents but a poor Flora — The Lover of Nature ever finds Enjoyment — Varieties of Lupines — Indigenous Grasses — The Boundary Commission — The sporting Pleasures of British Columbia all a Myth — Disappointment of the Officers of the Royal Engineers and Royal Marines — In Sleep we picture desperate and bloody Fights — Pleasant Dreams — Danger of having the Indian to guide one through the Thicket — Bear-flesh, and Panther in the Market — Barbarous Mode of killing Deer by the Indian — The Pretty little Fawn — Great Ferocity of the Grizzly — Terrible Fight between a Man and a Bear — A Miner pressed to Death by a Grizzly — The dead Man's Grave — Famishing Wolves rifle the Tomb of its sacred Trust 193

Chapter VIII

Proclamation relative to Crown Lands — Remarks on the Measure — Information for Military and Naval Officers proposing to settle in certain Colonies — Homestead Law of America — Inducing Immigration by false Representations most censurable — The Territory should have been left in the hands of the Hudson's Bay Company — Extract from the Times — The civil Creditor and the Soldier — Shameful Treatment of the Military — The Canadian People — Is the Pacific Railroad destined to traverse British Columbia P — British Columbia Overland Transit Company — Red River Settlements — The San Juan difficulty — How is British Columbia governed? — A resident Governor and a Legislature wanted — Attempt to silence the Press, the People subscribe 800/. on the Spot — Gagging of the Government Auctioneer 205

Chapter IX

Emigration an important Feature in tie Colonial Policy of England — Land the safest Investment for Capital — A glance at our other Colonies — Copious Immigration of Chinese — The Chinese a strange Race — Account of a Wedding — Account of a Chinese Dinner — CONTENTS. Civilisation and the English People — Crown Lands of Canada and Australia — Writings of a Clergyman on British Columbia — Financial Condition of the Colony — Public Loans — No brighter Picture can be presented — Decimal Currency should be adopted in the Colony — Consumption of Merchandise — Population of British Columbia and Vancouver's Island — The bright Side of the Picture . . Page 281

Chapter X

Vancouver's island. Situation of Vancouver's Island — Its Colonisation, and Conditions of the Grant — Climate — Soil — Harbours — Town of Victoria — The Land System — The Legislative Assembly and the Medical Profession — The Church Question — Government Supplies — Census of the Island — The Indians — General Society — The Chartered Bank of British Columbia and Vancouver's Island — The London Emigration Society — The Island not yet productive — Expense of Living — ' Take a Drink ' — Contribution to the Industrial Exhibition of 1862 — Who should and who should not emigrate 333

CHAPTER XL

SaiN Francisco 383

Chapter XII

Hints to Emigrants — Chinook Jargon and English equivalent Terms Routes by which Vancouver's Island and British Columbia may be reached, and the expense of each — Overland Route via Canada 391

Chapter XIII

The Colonial Courts in the International Exhibition of 1862 The French Nation and Expositions of Industry — The Palace at Sydenham — The Building at Brompton and Mausoleum to the Memory of the good Prince-Consort 41g