Three thousand Miles through the Rocky Mountains

Front matter

I ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ I ■ ■ I ■ I I ■ ■ ■ I I I ■ ■ ■ ■ I I ■ ■ I ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ I I ■ THREE THOUSAND MILES THROUGH THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. BY A. K. McCLTJRE. PHILADELPHIA: J. B. LIPPINCOTT & CO. 18 6 9. Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1869, by J. B. LIPPINCOTT & CO., In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States for the Eastern District of Pennsylvania.

Preface

. In presenting these letters to the public in book form, I do not claim for them any measure of literal-}7 merit. They were written hastily, during a journey of three thousand miles through the Rocky Mountains, and often in the midst of annoyances not favorable to epistolary perfection. The letters embrace two distinct series: one published in the New York " Tribune," and the other published in the " Franklin Repository," which will account for the treat ment of the same topics in different letters, although always substantially varied. I need hardly say that they were not written with the design to collect them in book form ; and now, when the wide-spread interest felt in the rapidly growing Great West seems to demand reliable information of the people, resources, progress, and destiny of the Rocky Mountain Territories, I find it impossible to revise the letters so as to conform them to the exactions of the critical without depriving them of much of their freshness, and, probably, some of their usefulness.

Fully conscious of their many imperfections, I have consented to their publication only because I hope thereby to afford, in some humble de gree, the long-delayed justice to the pioneers of the West, and, at the same time, give some little additional strength to the growing disposition to make the boundless mineral and agricultural wealth ofthe Territories available to benefit our common country. He who aids, in any measure, in advan-

PREFACE.

. cing our people and our government to a just appreciation of the limitless riches which the Great West has so long offered to the nation, will not have lived without benefit to his people ; and it is to contribute my mite to that great end that these pages are presented to the public. I am fully sensible that, in another decade, scores of new records of the West will be written by abler pens than mine ; and each new advocate will have brighter fields to explore and more dazzling pictures to present, as the nation is made to grasp its matchless prize of wealth toward the setting sun. Refore that brief time shall elapse, these crude pages will be forgotten, — unless by the few who preserve the erratic foot prints of Western progress. Three through-lines of railroad will span the continent from tbe Atlantic to the Pacific, dot ting their lines with new cities, new settlements, new churches, new schools, new communities, and new and mighty States ; and the freshly-inspired commerce of the ancient empire will be turned from its westward course toward the Great Republic in the East, and mingle with the newly-created millions of products of our new-born Commonwealths, as united they sweep across our continent to our commercial centres, and thence to the Old World.

To hasten the events that will cause these letters to be forgotten, is now their mission ; and their faults may be freely condemned, if they shall render the humblest aid to enlarge tbe stature of our Western empire. A. K. M. Philadelphia, April, 1869. CONTENTS.

Letter I

page From Chambersburg to Pittsburg. — Parting with Old Friends. — The Juniata Valley. — Crossing the Alleghanies. — The Progress of a Quarter of a Century. — A Day in Pittsburg. ... 17

Letter II

Pittsburg to Chicago. — Farewell to the Pennsylvania Mountains. — The Progress of the West. — Western Boys.— A Delightful Sleeping- Car. — The Conventionalities of Society on Sleeping-Cars. — An Early Breakfast. — A Locomotive-Race. — Excitement of the Passengers. — Westward Travel stopped by the Floods.

Letter III

Chicago to Omaha. — Chicago a Fast City. — Getting News in the West. — The Chicago and Northwestern Railroad. — Its Hasty and Imperfect Construction. — The Missouri Flood. — Western Iowa. — "Square Meals." — Western Luxuries. — A Wreck. — Delay and Scarcity of Provisions. — Lunch-baskets. — A Foraging Party. — Indifferent Success. — "All Right again." — Another Stop at Honeybrook. — Another Hunt for Rations. — Dealing with a Western Dame for Milk and Bread. — Swindled by Biddy. — Council Bluffs. — An Unpleasant Night in the Cars. — Trouble in crossing the Missouri River.— The People of Omaha. . . . . .27

Letter IV

Council Bluffs. — The Enterprise and Thrift of Omaha. — A Specimen Western City. — How Houses are built in a Day. — The Indian War. — General Augur's projected Campaign in the Hostile Country. — Position and Numbers of many of the Indian Tribes unknown. — Our Military Force inadequate for War. — Embarrassments of the Indian Problem. — The Inevitable Fate of the Red Man. — Sympathy of the Military with the Indians. — The Opinions of the Western People. . . . . . .37

Letter V

Starting from Omaha for the Plains. — The Union Pacific Railroad. — The Flood in the Platte Valley.— The Platte River.— Scarcity of Shrubbery and Trees. — The Adobe Shanties. — Antelopes and Buffa- (5j CONTENTS. PAQE -15 53 65 77 loes.— The Indian War again.— It grows more serious.— General Hancock's Expedition South.— His Enemy raids North.— The Cost of killing Indians.— The Military embarrassed by the Civil Au thorities.—Transfer of the Indians to the War Department a Neces sity. — Off again Westward. .

Letter VI

From North Platte to Denver.— The Barrenness of the Platte Valley. —The "Lone Tree" and "Plum Creek" not visible. — Sources ofthe Platte River.— First Experiment in Overland Staging. — The First Indian Alarm.— Troops protecting a Whisky-Mill.— Alarm of the Station-Men. — A Cowardly Driver induced to change his Strategy. — A Canadian Frenchman uses a Revolver as a Persuader. —The First "Square Meal" on the Plains.— Fort Sedgwiek. — Plenty of Troops, but ineffective. — Indians drive in the Cavalry. — The Stage goes on and passes in Safety. — Quicksand and Sand- Gnats.— A Burnt Station.— Supper with " Old Wicked."— The Dinner at Living Spring. — Arrival at Denver.

Letter VII

Efforts to understand the Indian Question. — The Western Demand for Chivington or Conner. — Western Contempt for the Regular Army. — Why Regulars do not fight Indians successfully. — Advantages of the Indians in a Summer Campaign. — The Monuments of Indian Warfare.— The Platto Valley Raid of 1865.— Horrible Cruelties ofthe Savages. — Hollen Godfrey, or "Old Wicked." — His Defense of his Ranch. — A Supper with him, and his Story of his Fight. — His Solution of the Indian Problem. — He regards Indians as Peaceable when they are Dead. — How Indians conduct Campaigns. — Their Signals and Spies. — Thore must be Peace. — It will be the Peace of Death to the Indian. — -The Harney and Chivington Wars. ........

Letter VIII

A Prolific Subject for the Letter-writer. — An Afternoon at the Denver Races. — An Interesting Race. — The Value of a Sporting Watch discovered. — Denver and its People. — Its Experience with Desperadoes. — The Fate of the Steels. — The Attack upon Mr. Byers. — Mr. Hepworth Dixon's Blunders. — His Hero Bob Wilson. — The Order, Morality, and Advantages of Denver. — Character of Western Settlers. — What Sacrifices they make, and how poorly requited. — The Lark. — The Prairie-dog and Owl. — The Rattlesnake. — The Indian Troubles again. — The Overland Route closed by Savages East and West. — Indian Atrocities. — Western Volunteers the Remedy.

Letter IX

Colorado and her Progress. — The Substantial Progress of Denver. — Its Depression and Prospects. — The Evils of Selfish Politicians. — Colorado a Gigantic Suicide in the Management of her Rich Mines. The Rage of Speculation, and consequent Bankruptcy. — The City of Abandoned Quartz-Mills. — Twenty Millions of Capital wasted in CONTENTS. 7 PAOB Feverish Speculation. — Legitimate Development retarded. — The Prospect of Restoration to Prosperous Business. — The Trip through the Mountains. — Their Matchless Grandeur. — The Storm-King in Conflict with the Snow-capped Peaks. .... 88

Letter X

Indian-bound in Denver. — The Savages controlling the Overland Route East and West. — General Augur's Use of Troops. — Interesting Telegraphic Correspondence with him. — His "Upper Country" Campaign. — No Earnest Effort to protect the Great Overland Routes. — A Pleasant Time with the Coloradans. — New Treatment of Strangers. — Why Dixon was fooled. — The Variety of Character in the West. — The Stage-Driver. — His Skill, Intelligence, and Courtesy. — Staging about Denver. — The "Square Meals" of the West. — High Prices of Labor. — House-Servants and Wives wanted. — Judge Eyster. — Colonel Wash. Lee. . . . .98

Letter XI

Still Indian-bound in Colorado. — End of Hancock's Expedition. — Another Peace-talk to be had with the Savages. — The Indians raid the Overland Routes, while the Troops are ordered to hunt Indians where they are not to be found. — General Sherman's Policy. — Great Injustice to the West. — The Tide of Emigration arrested. — The Necessity of protecting One Route. — Contractors said to be encouraging War. — The Sad Failure of Mining-Companies in Colorado. — Their Hopeless Future. — Legitimate Enterprise the only Way to Success in the Mines. — The Variations of Colorado Climate.— The Crops. . . . . • • -107

Letter XII

A Journey to Colorado City. — Crossing the Divide. — Thunderand Snow-Storms. — The Pines. — Bierstadt and the Colorado Rocks. — Storm-staid at " The Dirty Woman's Ranch." — A Western Cabin. — A Pleasant and Hospitable Hostess. — A Bright Fire and Excellent Supper. — Tho Guests chat away the Evening. — The " Garden of the Gods." — Grandeur of tho Monuments. — Natural Pillars from Three to Five Hundred Feet High. — They appear like Ruins of Colossal Statuary. — The Mineral Springs. — Camp Creek Canon. — A Severe Snow-Storm. — Vain Attempt to procure Shelter from a Fugitive Mormoness. — Petrifactions on the Platte. . . 114

Letter XIII

Storm-bound in Denver. — An Old-fashioned Eastern Settled Rain. — The "Oldest Inhabitant" cannot explain it. — Rapid Rise of the Mountain-Streams. — The Stage stopped by the Flood. — Peril of Passengers in crossing a Little Stream. — Prospects of Indian Raids. — No "Friendlies" visible but the Utes.— The First Settlers of Colorado. —Legislation to defeat Foreign Creditors. — Summary Execution of Part of Quantrell's Band. — Agricultural Productions of Colorado. CONTENTS. PAOE 154

Letter XIV

Off from Denver.— The Party.— Our Arms.— Indians in Front and Rear. — Swollen Streams. — Crossing Boulder. — Virginia Dale. — The Savages uncomfortably Close. — Prospect of a Brush. — Passing the Black Hills.— Tactics of the Indians.— When they attack.— Arrival at Cooper's Creek. — The Stage-Horses stolen by the Indians. — The Policy of the Military. — An Escort of Three Troopers. — Fort Halleck. — Elk Mountain. — Running the Gauntlet of an Indian Camp. — The Driver and his Strategy. — A Hasty Drive. — North Platte. — The Indians on the War-Path ahead. — A Council of War. — A Forward Movement decided on. — A Bright but Deceptive Morning. — The First Station abandoned, and the Second Burning. — A Sober Dinner-Party at Pine Grove. — A Pitiless Snow-Storm. — The Station burning on the Summit of the Rocky Range. — Our Situation most critical. — "Big Dick." — Fresh Tracks, and a Line of Battle necessary. — Dick's Disposal of the Lady. — The "Cusses" overtaken. — A Mutual Retreat. — Firing forbidden by Dick. — Arrival at Sulphur Spring. — The Horses captured there the same Day. — The Battle the Day before. — A Melancholy Stage-Drive. — Captain Wilson's Apology to General Sherman. — The Accommodations. — The Alarm. — Westward again. ...... 127

Letter XV

Departure from Sulphur Spring. — The Savages witness our Departure. — Military Strategy of the Old Station-Man. — The Pets of the Stations. — Cats, Dogs, and Chickens. — Vengeance of the Indians in killing the Station Pets. — Indians attack a Train. — Bitter Creek reached. — The Alkali Water and Dust. — Green River. — Fresh Water again. — A Dispute for the Team. — The Driver convinced in our Favor.— -A Belligerent Official.— The Church Buttes.— A Team of Bronchos. — Fort Bridger. — Hospitality of Judge Carter. — The Mormon War. — Indians. — Contempt of the Males for Women. — The Quaking Asp Summit. — A Night at Bear River. — Echo Canon. — Hank Conner and his Gay Team. — Among the Mormons at Weber. — Crossing the Wasatch Range. — Five Feet of Snow. — A Harmless Upset. — Arrival at Salt Lake. ..... 143

Letter XVI

Hospitality of the Mormons. — Despotism of the Mormon Leaders. — The Theory of Mormon Power. — Character of the Mormon Emigrants. — Their Greatly Improved Temporal Condition. — The Serfs of the Old World become. Thrifty Farmers in Utah. — Brigham Young. — His Abilities as an Adminstrator generally underrated. — His Appearance, Culture, and Manners. — His Wives. — The Last and Favorite an Apple of Discord in the Prophet's Home. — Polygamy as a Source of Power. — Plural Wives. — The Terrors of Polygamy to Mormon Women. — Preaching in the Tabernacle. — Brigham Young's Sermon.— His Blasphemy and Profanity. — His Temporal Power. — His Financial Management. — Distracting Issues in the Church. — The Causes combining to the Overthrow of Mormonism. CONTENTS. 9 PAGE

Letter XVII

The Pleasant City ofthe Saints.— Their Industry and Thrift.— Their Enjoyments. — The Great Basin. — Salt Lake. — Its Tributaries. — Why Utah was chosen by the Mormons. — Character of the Valley when they found it. — Success of Mormon Industry. — The Mormon Religion. — Brigham Young Spiritual and Temporal Head of the Church. — His Wives. — The Religious Feature of Polygamy. — Mormon Wives again. — Mormon Service in the Tabernacle. — The Blot of Polygamy. ....... 165

Letter XVIII

Continued Interruption of Travel. — The Indian Campaigns. — The Injustice done the Western People. — Desire of the West for Peace. — The Inefficiency of the Military. — Wells, Fargo & Co. — Their Horses exposed to Indians for Want of Feed. — No Valuable Horses on the Mountain Divisions. — Passengers exposed to Danger for Want of Stock. — The Stables undefended. — No Horses stolen from Defended Stables. — Mr. Holliday. — He deranges the Line, and then falls back. — Kindness ofthe Employes ofthe Company. . . 175

Letter XIX

A Delightful Journey through Mormondom. — How Brigham "dictates" to the Faithful. — The Bishops and their Revenues. — How they assist the Poor. — The Mormon Industrial System a Success. — Ogden City. — Bishop West and his Eight Wives. — How a Mormon Bishop luxuriates. — The Prairie-Flowers. — Bear River. — Countless Mosquitoes and Gnats. — Passengers and Driver veiled. — Idaho. — Appropriate Names of Stations. — Climbing the Rocky Range again. 184

Letter XX

A Night-Ride on the Summit of the Rocky Range. — The Mosquitoes again. — Pleasant Valley Station a Fraud. — Parting of the Waters on the Summit to the Eastern and Western Seas. — The Source of the Missouri and Columbia Rivers. — The Snako River. — Its Tortuous Course through the Mountains. — The Stinking-Water River. — Virginia City. — Its First Settlers. — Alder Gulch. — Its Wonderful Yield of Gold.— Belt of Rich Mines.— The Precious Metals of Montana. — Agricultural Resources of the Territory. — Irregularity of the Mails. — Wells, Fargo & Co.'s Special Mails. — A Premium paid for Neglect to convey the Mails. — How to test the Safety of the Overland Route. . . . . . . . .190

Letter XXI

Reluctant Parting with the Mormons. — The Beauty of Mormon Homes. — They labor for Beauty and Plenty. — The Ogden Bishop again. — The Sterile Waste across Idaho. — The Mosquitoes and Gnats. — The Station-Men and their Pets. — A New and Novel Apartment. — Mice in the Place of Cats and Dogs. — A " Square Meal" at Pleasant Valley. — A Good Supper and Grateful Rest at Black Tail Deer.— The Last Fifty Miles.— Sleeping in the Coach.— The Welcome Moon.— The God of Day gilding the Rocky Domes. . . 199 CONTENTS. 10 PAGE 207 214 226

Letter XXII

Union City. — Its Architecture and Population. — Its Sobriety. — The Single Monument of its Mortality.— The Bluebird and Robin.— The Natal Day of the Republic. — How it was not celebrated. — The Western People. — Their Cordial Hospitality and Kindness. — How People are "corraled." — Western Terms and their Significance. — How they live.— The Bountiful Boards of the Miners. — How Sunday is observed. — Sunday Auctions. — Gambling-Hells licensed by Law. — The Charms of Western Life. ..... LETTEJt XXIII. Mining in Montana. — The Failures of Quartz-Mills in the Midst of Rich Mines. — Hundreds of Mills should be paying in the Territory. — The Cost of Mining and Working Ores. — Prices in Montana. — The Money paid for Freights. — Fluctuations in Business. — Why Mining Companies fail. — The Best Mines owned in Small Fractions. — Economical Development impossible. — The " Freeze-out" Game. — How Companies should test Mines before purchasing. — Mills not needed until Mines are fully developed. — Character of Ores to determine Character of Machinery. — Montana as a Field for Successful Investments. ........

Letter XXIV

The Montana Vigilanters. — The Reign of Crime in the Mining Regions. — Montana the Refuge of the Lawless. — The Concentration of Desperadoes. — How Virginia City was named. — Organization of Plummer's Band. — Plummer Sheriff of the Territory. — All the Channels ofthe Law controlled. — Completeness of the Organization. — Its Signs and Officers. — Victims unconsciously notifying the Robbers of their Prey. — The Tide of Retribution. — Its Merciless Sweep. — Colonel John X. Beidler. — The Hero of Montana Justice.. — His History and Exploits. — How the Judgment of the Vigilanters is executed. — The First Execution. — The Last of Plummer's Band. — The Great Revolution wrought by the Vigilanters. — One of their own Members executed. — The Justice of their Judgments. — The Restoration of Order and Safety. .....

Letter XXV

A Political Mandamus. — Opening of a Mountain Political Campaign. — Western People. — Their Generosity and Prodigality. — Extravagance of Prosperous Times. — The Restless Prospecter. — Sunday in Virginia City. — Street-Auctions. — Cheap John on Eastern Notions. — Shepherds get astray. — Sunday in Union City. — The Children of the Village. — Departure of Little Eva. — Her Affecting Farewell. — Little Alice. — Her Theological Disputation. — Corraled in the Mountains by Indians and Low Water. .... 239

Letter XXVI

The City of Hoggum. — How it got its Name. — The Hoggum Hustings. — An Unsympathizing Audience and an Uninspired Speaker. CONTENTS. 11 PAGE 246 261 272 — A Hospitable Pennsylvania Farmer. — A Hot Ride across the Prairies and Cliffs. — Rest and Refreshments on the Madison. — The Madison Valley. — The Devastation of the Grasshoppers. — Crossing the Hot Springs Divide. — A Continued Belt of Gold-Leads. — Pro posed Military and Prospecting Campaign into the Yellowstone. — The M. M., or Montana Militia. — How they deal with the Indians. — Hot Springs District. — The Quartz-Mills and Mines. — Obstacles to Successful Mining. — A Political Meeting. — Interesting Discus sion. — Rocky Mountain Audiences and Orators. — Pleasant Enter tainment at Lower Hot Springs. — A Mountain-Dairy. — Prices of Milk and Butter. — Dinner in the Gallatin Valley. — A Missouri Spinster the Hostess. — Welcomed to Bozeman. — Another Political Meeting. — Entertained by the Lawyer of the City. — One Room for Chamber, Dining-Room, and Office. — Down Gallatin Valley. — Its Beauty and Fruitfulness. — Political Meeting at Gallatin City. — But One Republican present. — The Head of the Missouri. — Another Hot Drive to Hoggum. ......

Letter XXVII

Crossing the Plains and Divides to the Madison. — Madison Valley. — Its Fertility. — Indifferent Farming. — Mormon Industry and System wanted. — Ravages of the Grasshoppers. — Swarms of Millions migrating from one Valley to another. — No Crops next Year. — The Crickets and their Ravages. — Hot Springs Mines and Mills again. — The Gallatin Valley. — Its Beautiful Streams, Bountiful Farms, and Splendid Herds. — Farming a Permanent Business in the Gallatin. — Fine Crops and Implements. — Yield and Price of Wheat. — Bozeman City. — Colonel Bozeman. — His Murder by the Savages. — The Montana Militia. — Gallatin City. — Its Hasty Rise and Decline. — Its Founders ignorant of Geography. — The City Cabins now grace the Prosperous Ranches. .

Letter XXVIII

The Morning Air of the Mountains. — A Wonderful Tonic. — Mountain-Pasturage. — How Cattle are wintered. — Bunch Grass and Tender Beef. — The Gallatin Valley again. — Its Fertility and many Advantages. — The Northern Pacific Railroad. — The Navigation of the Upper Missouri. — The rich Region east of Gallatin. — The Savage resisting Civilization. — Settlements extending East and West through Montana. — The Inevitable Solution ofthe Indian Problem. — Prickly Pear Valley. — Dinner and Rest. — Don Pedro and his Mistress. — Welcome to Helena. — Dr. Cass in Command. — His Ideas of Water as a Steady Beverage. — A Bottle of Wine his Sovereign Remedy. — Another Political Meeting. — Speech refuted in the Newspapers.* — A Day at the Hot Springs. — Mrs. General Meagher. — Excellent Dinner and Baths. — Virtue and Vice.

Letter XXIX

The Head of the Missouri River. — A Beautiful Prospect. — The Cliff on which Lewis and Clarke first viewed and named the Jefferson, Madison, and Gallatin Rivers. — Navigation ofthe Upper Missouri. CONTENTS. PAGE —From Gallatin to Hoggum.— The Missouri and Prickly Pear Val leys.—The Fertile Soil about Helena.— Helena City.— Its Rapid Growth.— Character of its People.— Its Rich Bars and Gulches.— Water-Ditches.— The Hangman's Tree.— James W. Whitlach.— The Whitlach Union Mine.— The Reward of Earnest Development. . 281

Letter XXX

The Trade and Prosperity of Helena. — The Immense Consumption of a Small Population.— Climbing the Rocky Range again.— The Mullen Wagon-Road an Old Indian Trail.— Magnificent Timber on the Northern Slopes of the Range.— Fine Blooded Cattle grazing on the Mountains.— Parting of the Waters.— Meadow Brook. — Brook- - Trout. — A " Batch" Dinner. — Carpenter's Bar. — Blackfoot City. — Political Speaking. — Competition of the Gambling-Saloons and Bars. — Good Order preserved. — Democratic Meeting on Sunday. — The Salute to General Smith. — Judge Williston. . . .288

Letter XXXI

The Forests of the Rocky Range on Mullen's Pass. — The Mountains on Fire. — Deer Lodge Valley. — Its Mining-Districts. — Promising Gold and Silver Leads. — Exorbitant Prices named in Bonds to Middle-Men. — Legitimate Mining. — Failure almost invariably due to Mismanagement. — Deer Lodge City. — Its Beautiful Streams and Vast Herds. — Its Great Mineral Spring. — Agricultural Settlements of Montana. — Tho Missoula Valley. — Growth of Fruit. 294

Letter XXXII

Sunday in Blackfoot. — A Pet Dog stolen. — A Bucking Kiyuse. — Western Riders. — How they saddle and bridle Western Ponies. — Conquering the Kiyuse. — Judge Williston. — Deer Lodge City. — Game in the Valley. — Crossing the Rocky Range again at Big Hole Pass. — The Gradual Ascent from the West. — Another Batch Dinner — The Batch's Pets. — Divide Creek. — Its Waters coursing to both Oceans. — Fourth Crossing of the Rocky Range. — Big Hole Valley. — Hospitality of Moose Creek. — A Delightful Supper. — A Bed of Doubtful Color. — A Struggle with Bedbugs. — A Loquacious Landlady. — Her Untidiness. — Her Conflicts with the Bugs. — A Dubious Breakfast. — Two Thousand Miles of Pleasant Staging in the Mountains. ........ 301

Letter XXXIII

Deer Lodge River and its Tributaries. — Highland and Butte City Mining-Districts. — Marvelous Yield of Ores. — Big Hole Valley. — Beaver-Head River and Valley. — Ravages of the Grasshoppers. — Stinking-Water Valley and its Fine Improvements. — Lorrain's Ranch. — His History. — A Settler for a Quarter of a Century. — His Brides. — His Last Best Gift, and how he got her. — His Vast Possessions. — Romantio Fishing-Parties. — -Pleasant Rides over the Prairie. — Alder Gulch and its Wealth. .... CONTENTS. 13 PAGE 326

Letter XXXIV

The Mineral Wealth of Montana. — Recent Discoveries of Mines of Great Promise. — The Economical Delivery of Ores. — Causes of Failure of Mills. — Improved Machinery coming into the Territory. — Prospects of Legitimate Mining in Montana. — The "Freeze-out Game." — Judicious Development of Mines much needed. — How Gold-Mines are discovered. — The Prospecter. — His Love of Adventure. — His Dream of Gold. — His Recklessness of Life. — How much he contributes to the Nation, and how poorly rewarded himself. — Rushing from Diggings to some New Eldorado. — The Salmon River Stampede. — The Prospecter's Dream of Home. . . . 314

Letter XXXV

The Melancholy Days. — The Tide of Progress. — The Living Reign on the Oregon. — "Old Baldy." — His Advent and History. — His Relics from his Companionship in the Deep. — His Kind Admonition ofthe Coming of the Storm-King. — He changes not with the Advance of Civilization. — "Lo" and his Bride. — The Fate of the Red Man. — How he became peaceable. — Another Visitor. — The Mountain-Rat. — His original Social Qualities. — The Reign ofthe Storm-King. .

Letter XXXVI

A Western Court. — The Court-Room. — Limited Powers of the Judge. — Freedom of the Lawyers. — Chief-Justice Hosmer. — A Specimen Case. — The same Point decided Five Times, after as many Legal Wrangles. — Disregard of Judicial Decrees. — Sleeping with a Professor. — Interesting Researches into the Past. — Imaginary Wanderings over Montana Millions of years ago. — Con. Orem and his Prize-Fight. — Invited to be a Referee. — A Reminiscence of the Rebellion. — General Fitz-John Porter. — Mrs. Swisshelm and General Grant. — He will be next President, if living. — Future Visits to Montana. . . . . . . . .332

Letter XXXVII

How Gold and Silver are produced. — Gulchor Placer-Diggings. — How the Gulches are worked. — Devices to save the Gold in washing the Earth. — How Miners make Laws. — The Sanctity of their Mining- Laws. — Quartz-Mining. — How Miners procure the Ores. — Shafts, Tunnels, and Drifts. — Hoisting by Windlass, Whim, and Steam. — Foul Air and Water. — Selecting Quartz. — Difference in Color and Quality. — Crushing the Ores. — Amalgamating the Gold with Quicksilver. — Working Sulphurets. — Arastras and Barrels. — Stamp-Mills and Chilian Mills. — Silver-Ores. — Smelting Galena Silver-Ores. — The Clean-Up.— Amalgam.— The Brick of Gold. . . .342

Letter Xxxviii

The Indian Question. — Failure of the Indian Campaign. — The Military Expeditions fruitless. — Fearful Extent of Savagery on the Plains. — Five Thousand Whites murdered in a Year. — Official Libels upon the People of the West. — The Military and Indian Agents the Great CONTENTS. PAGE 376 Obstacles to Peace. — No Peaceable Indians on the Plains. — What Professed Peaceable Indians do.— The Butchers of Fort Phil. Kearney in Council with the Military. — No Demand for Punishment. — The Crows and Blackfeet.— The'Struggle between the Indian and the White Man. — How Civilization is arrested by the Savage. — The Pioneers will advance, whether protected or not. — How to avert Extermination. — Abolish Agencies. — Cease treating with Indians. — Choose Competent Military Commanders. — Select Western Troops to fight Hostile Tribes. — Proposed Surrender of the Bozeman Route a Crime. — Manifest Destiny. .... 354

Letter XXXIX

The German Evangeline. — Romantic Story of a Daughter of the Rhine. — She finds her Faithful Lover in the Rocky Mountains. — A Visit to their Cosy Cabin. — Union City deserted. — Waiting for News from the Prize-Fight. — Hope deferred. — The Donkey Express brings the News. — Indignation of the Bearer of Dispatches from the Seat of War. — Con. Orem defeated in the Mill. — Tim's Account of the Bruise. — Business is Business in Montana. — Advertisements. — The Chinese in Montana. — Peonage among them. — Their Women mere Articles of Commerce. — The Chinese Dead. — All sent Home for Final Burial. — A Suspicious Box received from Mormondom. — A Present of Delicious Grapes. — Bruin visits Union City. — A Fruitless Chase.— A Plentiful Winter. . . . .368

Letter XL

Meeting with Colonel Beidler. — His Appearance and Dress. — How he employs his Time. — The Terror of Desperadoes and Savages. — His Complaint that Business is dull. — Local Reports of his Doings. — The Montana Legislature. — The only Republican Member ejected. — Supremacy of the Positive Rebel Element in Montana. — What the Legislature will do. — Montana Winters. — The Storm-King reigns. The Clouds a Protection to the Eyes. — Freezing insensibly. — The Effect of Dry, Cold Weather.— Health of the Residents.— The Mountains to become a Great Resort for Invalids.

Letter XLI

A Sojourn _ at the Capital. — Pleasant Weather. — Con. Orem broken up in Business. — His Groggery leased for the House of Representatives. — The Montana Senate. — Virginia City improving. — Bishop Tuttle. — His Earnest and Successful Efforts among the Western People. — Methodism. — The Energy of the Catholics. — Their Efforts to educate the Children of the Mountains. — A Prize-Fight and Funeral. — Trial of Professor Hodge for Murder. — His Acquittal. — Interesting Entertainment. — Confusion of the Glasses and Hats. — Belligerent Attorneys. — How they missed a Funeral. — Judge Williston. — The Weather. — The Pleasant Autumn. — Social Amusements in the Capital. — Everything ends in a Dance. . . . CONTENTS. 15 PAGE 391 400 409 418