Henry M. Stanley: his life, travels and explorations

Front matter

HENBY M. STANLEY HIS LIFE, TRAVELS AND EXPLORATIONS BY THE Rev. HENRY W. LITTLE actholt op "madagascab: iis history and people," "a history of russia, " etc., etc. LONDON— CHAPMAN and HALL, Limited PHILADELPHIA— J. B. LIPPINCOTT Company 1890 \ All rights reserved"] LONDON: PRINTED BY GILBERT AND RIVINGTON, LD., ST. JOHN'S HOUSE, CLERKENWELL ROAD, E.C. Scbuation. TO THE "SONS AND DAUGHTERS OF THE EMPIRE," AND TO THE YOUTH OF THE GREAT AMERICAN REPUBLIC, THIS SIMPLE STOEY OF A BRAVE LIFE IS AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATED, BY THE AUTHOR.. London, 1890.

Preface

. The great Anglo-Saxon and English-speaking nations of the old and new worlds have no continuous and convenient record of the travels and explorations of Mr. Henry Morton Stanley. This book it is hoped will supply the need. The narrative is mainly based upon the graphic ac counts, from the pen of the famous traveller himself, of his journeys and explorations, and upon copies of official despatches, reports, and original papers which have been placed at my disposal. The helpful lessons of a career so strong in purpose, so direct in aim, and so prolific of results, are too valuable to be overlooked or lost. The intrepid man who " found Livingstone " and discovered the Congo, has ceased to be regarded any longer as a " smart newspaper writer " or " an un reliable adventurer." He has helped to make the history of the century, created a New State, and secured for himself a front place amongst the noblest pioneers of civilization and the truest friends of humanity of our time.

Preface. VI His life is therefore worthy of careful and attentive study. It conveys a message of encouragement to the man who governs, to the man who thinks, and to the man who acts. It also reveals to us an unique example of " one man " power — of the strength of an Indivi duality directed by lofty intention, and sustained by an abiding sense of duty. With the pages of this Memoir open before us, we are constrained to acknowledge that the days of chivalry and heroic enterprise are not altogether past — that, now as ever, there are strenuous spirits, giants in the land, who are ready to " Do and Dare." There is a quaint fable which hints at the possibility of pig mies increasing in stature by habitual intercourse with giants. Carlyle teaches us that if we would be full of courage we must surround ourselves, by daily perusal of their doings, with the atmosphere which nourishes heroes.

The achievements of the brave explorer of the "Dark Continent " are incentives to all men, in an age of speculation and over-much theorizing, to have the " Cou rage of Doing." His African followers, the constant witnesses of his prowess, his conflicts, and his triumphs over every obstacle which faced him in his efforts to unravel the enigma of the ages, and to open up the great heart of Africa, proclaimed him " The Stone Breaker." In this cognomen his history and character are eloquently and tersely expressed. Leon Gambetta, on a celebrated occasion, said of him, " Stanley has given an impulse to scientific and philanthropic enterprise. He has influenced Govern- Preface. VII ments." Plutarch records an incident in the life of a king of Macedon, who, when severely pressed on one occasion by his enemy, retired from the scene of con flict for the pious purpose, as he gave out, of sacrificing to Hercules.

Emilius, his opponent, at once rushed into the fight, with his naked weapon in his hand, and, calling upon the gods, won a brilliant victory. The exploits of Stanley remind us of the method of Emilius, for with him Doing is Thinking and Working is Praying. Mr. Stanley has never been envious of the Missionary or the Trader. He has opened the way frankly and generously for both, along the tawny waters of his beloved river and its thousand affluents. He has disclosed to us, in most convincing words, the only solution of what is pre-eminently the African question — the Slave Trade. Free and unrestricted commerce he declares and proves to be the fatal enemy of the Arab man-stealer, the only cure (to use Dr. Livingstone's pathetic expression) for the " running sore of Africa." In revealing to us the true condition of Central Equatorial Africa, with its vast areas of prolific soil, peopled by " myriads of dusky nations," its magnificent water-ways for the transit of its produce, its busy markets, its rich stores of native wealth, and its superior capacity for civilization and legitimate trade, he has conferred a lasting benefaction upon the important artisan populations of England and America.

But a galaxy of illustrious names surround the origin and rise of the Congo Free State, with which Preface. VIII region the fame of Henry M. Stanley will be for ever identified. To his Majesty Leopold IL, King of the Belgians, belongs the proud title of " The Generous Monarch," who so nobly conceived, ably conducted, and magnificently sustained the enterprise which has secured the recognition of the Great Powers of the World, and has ended in the establishment of the " Free State" (Stanley's Congo). To the marvellous perspicuity, the ceaseless ardour, and quenchless courage of Livingstone, who first directed the eye and mind of Stanley to the mysterious Luapula and its far reaching tributaries, and who himself traced its north ward course to the fork of Nyamge, we owe the earliest knowledge we possess of the mighty Congo " at the very source and fountain of its being."

To the astute Chancellor of the German Empire, Prince Bismarck, the author of the political constitution of the infant State, must be awarded the credit of obtaining for the newly created Province perfect commercial freedom, and liberty to develop its marvellous resources without fear of being " let or hindered " by rival or more powerful communities. We must not fail to remember (in this connection) that it was through the liberal patronage of the New York Herald and the Daily Telegraph newspapers that Mr. Stanley was able to undertake his events ul journey in 1876, through the entire continent from the sources to the mouth of the Congo, an adventure which, as an exhibition of sheer human courage and endurance. will never probably be surpassed. Preface. IX To those humbler companions of the great explorer, the sons of the soil, who obeyed him because they had learned to trust his word, and to confide in his courage, who followed him " not knowing whither they went," and without whose aid Stanley would have been powerless to secure success, I gladly devote a word of admiration.

" Unwept and unsung," they are scattered over the East, or have ceased to be. We must freely acknowledge, however, the important services which " these dark-skinned children of the land " rendered in faithfully sharing the toils and perils of their indomitable leader in the noble task which he set himself, of redeeming their coutinent from oppression and despair. The Life and Labours of Mr. Stanley fill up the most fascinating, and at the same time most instructive page in the History of Modern Exploration. With him, in brief, we learn that under all con ditions of life, it is " Better far the silent tongue but the eloquent deed : despatch than discourse : and Doing the best answer of all." H. W. L. London, 1890. 4U 55 CONTENTS. CHAPTEE I. PAGE Early days — With the Army of the North — Visit to Europe and the Syrian Peninsula — In the Mediterranean — Captured by brigands — "With Hancock's expedition — Indian warfare — A raft-voyage on the Platte River — Herald special correspondent to Europe and the East ..... 1 CHAPTEE II.

Annesley Bay — Through Abyssinia — Sir Eohert Napier — The road to Magdala— A forced march — Mountain campaigning — News of Theodore — Eobber villages — Funeral customs — Native allies— Will Theodore fight ? . . . .17 CHAPTER HI. To Magdala — Fruitless delay — Theodore doomed — The arrival of the European prisoners — Attack on the heights — " No powder" — Suicide of the Emperor — Sacking the stronghold — Return to the coast — Royal felicitations — " In perils by waters " — Home ........

CHAPTER IV.

Troubles in Spain — State of Madrid — Isabella deposed — An important interview at Paris — Constantinople — Russian intrigue in Central Asia — A Persian famine — The Shah and the telegraph — Bombay to Africa ....

CHAPTER V.

Busy Zanzibar — The Herald Livingstone Search Expedition — Landing in Africa — Forward to Myamyambe — The lion city — Ugogo and its magnates — Experiences of African travel— Fever and famine — In the game country Contents. XII PAOB 77

CHAPTER VI.

Unyanyembe — War rumours — Theexpedition delayed — "Killing the road " — An easy victory — The Bonaparte of Africa — An eventful night — Mutiny in the ranks — News of Livingstone — A clever flank-movement — Ujiji — Livingstone Found— On the Tanganika — -A problem solved — Back to Unyanyembe — The terrors of the Masika — Zanzibar once more — Welcome home ! — The Queen congratulates Stanley — A royal gift ........

CHAPTER VII.

Through Fanteeland to Ashantee — " The white man's grave " — Sir Garnet Wolseley and " War Specials " — The road to the Prah — A cruise in the Dauntless — Jack ashore — Ashantee customs — Camp-fire stories — Overtures from King Coffee — Sir Garnet decides to advance without delay — The Prah 99

CHAPTER VIII.

To Coomassie — Gifford's scouts — Ashantee houses — Release of the captives — Bush fighting — A stubborn foe — In sight of the capital — A fatal swamp — In Coomassie — The " Spirit-house " — Royal Treasures — The city in flames — Departure of the troops— The treaty of Foumannah — Rapid journey to the coast — Wolseley and Glover — Stanley as a military critic — The journey home . . . . . .118

CHAPTER IX.

The " Herald and Telegraph " Expedition — Unknown Africa — The heart of the Dark Continent — The sources of the Congo— "Myriads of dusky nations" — Livingstone's Lualaba — Lake Victoria — A visit to Uganda — The hope of Africa— Incidents of lake voyaging — The pirates of Bumbireh — Return to camp — A noisy welcome . . . 134

CHAPTER X.

More deaths— Mutiny in the camp — Capture of the Lady Alice — Peace with Bumbireh — Back to Uganda — Mtesa on the " warpath " — The royal convert — Christ or Mohammed — A white man's stratagem— To Muta Ngize— A retreat — Disappointed hopes — The boiling springs of Mtagata — Mirambo, "a perfect African gentleman "—Once more at rest in Ujiji Contents. XIII 202 244

CHAPTER XI.

The mystery of the Lualaba — Livingstone's legacy — Afloat on the Tanganika — Sad memories — A "south-wester" — The "Soko" (gorilla) country — On the track of Cameron — Friendly overtures declined — No letters — Mutiny and death — Strong measures— Native statuary — In the Manyema country — Traces of Livingstone — Heathen testimony to the virtues of the " old white man " — The children loved him — On the banks of the Lualaba — Tippo Tib and the Arabs of Nyangwe — Forward to the ocean ! — A terrible jungle — The expedition in peril — Perpetual strife — Tippo Tib deserts Stanley — The cataracts — Encamped at the Stanley Falls 184

CHAPTER XII.

Afloat on the Livingstone — Peace and rest — River life — Fighting once more — Stanley Pool — -Depressing prospects — The expedition starving — A royal visit — " Thirty-second and last fight " — The dreaded cataracts — Livingstone Falls — The " largest goat " in Africa — Disaster and love — Kalulu lost — Drowning of Frank Pocock — Rebellion in the camp — "Tired" — Death in the river — "The politest people in Africa" — The end approaching — "Master, we are dying of hunger ! " — The Lady Alice abandoned — A painful march — "Food, give us food!" — "Rum, I love rum ! " — In correspondence with white men — Relief appears — "Saved" — Boma — Zanzibar — Home once more

CHAPTER XIII.

A romance of modern history — The Comite d'Etudes du Haut Congo — The Brussels Conference — A continental holiday — A royal patron — At the mouth of the Congo — Stanley's fleet — Some historical facts — Tuckey's farthest — Boma — A depressing voyage — Steam against water — Choosing a site — The head -quarters of the new state 229

CHAPTER XIV.

The lords of Vivi — A novel spectacle — " The breaker of rocks " — The first settlement — Fifty-two miles of road — Isangila to Manyanga — " The end at last " — Blood-brothers — An African pretender — The bad fetish— Stanley Pool once more — At Kintamo — Founding Leopoldville — A land of promise Contents. XIV PAGE 268 285 304

CHAPTER XV.

A magnificent watery expanse — The Kwa— An African princess —Royal commands -Lake Leopold IL— "No fuel, no steam" — Worn to death — A complication of ills — Vivi — Home to England — Interview with the Comite at Brussels — Reporting progress — Three years of toil — Back to Vivi — Desolation - Ruin and decay — Deserters — New stations founded — Leopoldville a ruin — In peril at Bolobo

CHAPTER XVI.

Splendid scenery — Miles of the forest — Effect of the " smoke boats '" — Native mendacity — The covenant of blood — Hostile natives — A novel farewell — Equator Station — 770 miles from the Atlantic — Stanley as a peacemaker — "Bula Matari has spoken " — Vivi dismantled — Bolobo in ashes — Progress at Equator Station — Peace with the Bangala— A born orator— The wild Basoko — On the track of the Arab slavers — A ghastly spectacle — Slaves in chains — Plucky little Binnie — Stanley's ideal station — Unhappy Vivi — On board the Kisenibo — Six laborious and ' bitter " years — Report of the work of the Expedition — Stanley at Brussels — Retrospect .......

CHAPTER XVII.

The founding of the Congo Free State — The Berlin Conference — Treaties with natives —Portugal and England stop the way— Difficulties overcome — Prince Bismarck — A convention signed between the Association Internationale and Great Britain — M. de Brazza — Chief points of the formal convention agreed upon by the Association and the Great Powers — A Free-trade zone — Capabilities of the new state — A Congo railway — The Congo Free State a sovereign and independent power — Completion crowns the work

CHAPTER XVIII.

Notes upon the various races of Inner Equatorial Africa — The Bantus — Baleike — Currency — The Kroomen — Fatal fascination of the gin-bottle — Decline of ancient African monarchies — The King of Congo — Cannibals and dwarfs — Ghastly decorations — Language of the Congo tribes — Four distinct dialects — The French of the East Coast — Missionary enterprise — The religion of the Congo Tribes — " Nzambi " — Human sacrifices — The poison ordeal — "Some one has done it!" — The Bakongo — Daily life — "A lair of human beasts" — The slave trade on the upper waters , , , Contents. XV PAGE 342 409

CHAPTER XIX.

Climate of the Congo region — Wrong impressions — How to live in Equatorial Africa — Sudden changes of temperature — Good spirits essential to health — Flora of the Congo territory — Forests of priceless value — A country abounding in natural wealth — The ivory harvest — Mineral deposits — Large supplies of copper ore — Iron — Gold and silver — Fauna of the river-basin — African type — Elephants and zebras — Troops of hippos — The animal life of the Congoese forests and swamps — Belts of primeval forests — Gigantic trees — Lake villages — A word-picture by Cameron

CHAPTER XX.

Gordon as Stanley's successor — Not to the Congo, but to Khartoum — The story of the sad Soudan — An expedition to Khartoum sixty years ago — A captive princess — A novel poll-tax — Gold, slaves, and glory — Forcing the cataracts — "Water mares" — The commencement of the Soudanese slave wars — Tragedy at Shendy — Conquest of Kordofan — Gordon as Governor of the Equatorial Provinces— The Mahdi — Ras el Kiiarioum — The far-off garrisons — Left to perish 365

CHAPTER XXI.

Gordon Pasha's favourite policy — Reforming the administration — "I will hold the balance level" — Emin Pasha — Early life — At Berlin — On the staff of Hakki Pasha in Syria — Accepts service with the Khedive Ismail — To the Equator — Gordon and Emin at work — Mission to Uganda— The fruits of a righteous rule — Emin defies the Mahdi — Defence of Wadelai — Emin a soldier, doctor, man of science, and linguist — The Emin Pasha Relief Expedition — Mr. Stanley asked to lead the enterprise ..... 385

CHAPTER XXII.

Stanley at the Mansion House — A Freeman of the City — An errand of mercy and peril — The proposed routes to Wadelai — The perils of the expedition — Stanley declares his plan — He will follow the Congo — Farewell to England — Zanzibar — The Congo — The camp on the Aruwimi — Preparations for the journey overland to Wadelai— Stanley on the march — A word-portrait of Stanley — The explorer at home — How he wrote " Through the Dark Continent " — Into the unknown — En route to Wadelai .... Contents. XVI PAGE 428

CHAPTER XXIII.

Good news for Emin — The Pasha holding his own — Letter to Mr. Allen — Emin will not desert his post — Reorganization of the Province — Emin will remain and carry out the policy of his great chief — Unyoro and Uganda in arms — Kabrega a fugitive — A long silence— Letter from Wadelai to Dr. Felkin — Eniin is anxiously expecting Stanley and the Relief Expedition — Gathering clouds — The Mahdi moves down upon Wadelai — Summons sent to Emin to surrender his post — No tidings of the expedition — Emin decides to attack the Mahdi ......

CHAPTER XXIV.

From the Congo to the Albert Nyanza — Stanley and Emin meet — Major Barttelot — Lake Albert Edward — The march to the coast .........

Chapter I

Early days— With the Army of the North — Visit to Europe and the Syrian Peninsula — In the Mediterranean — Captured by brigands Hancock's expedition — Indian warfare — A raft-voyage on the Platte River — Herald special correspondent to Europe and the East. Henry Morton Stanley was born at Denbigh in Wales in 1841. The town, which has an eventful history, reaching back to ancient British times, occupies a striking position upon the sides and at the base of a rugged mass of limestone rock, overlooking the rich pastoral scenery of the Vale of Clwyd. It is peaceful enough now, even to dulness. In past days, however, as a mountain stronghold of the native Welsh princes, it was the scene of many stirring and important incidents, and the magnificent ruins of its old castle bear everywhere upon their crumbling walls and broken towers, abundant marks of " sieges, struggles, battles and surprises."

The locality abounds in romantic traditions of gallant deeds and feats of valour, performed by the ancient heroes of the Principality, and these legends are carefully treasured, and proudly handed down, from father to son, by the simple and warm-hearted peasantry of the district. The Denbigh of to-day is almost entirely B given up to trade. It has a thrifty population of six thousand inhabitants, who are chiefly employed in making shoes and gloves. The cottage home of Stanley's parents (a humble but worthy couple) was situated within the precincts of the old 'fortress, which embraced a large portion of the southern slope of the hill. At an early age, owing to the death of his father, he was placed in the Free School at St. Asaph, where he remained for ten years. Those who knew him at this period describe him as industrious, and by no means wanting in ability.

High-spirited, and fond of all physical exercises, he entered with eagerness into the attractive ventures and hazardous exploits of schoolboy life. At the same time he developed a special taste and capacity for mathematics and drawing, and to the future ex plorer of Africa a lesson in geography was always a welcome recreation, rather than a dry task. On a memorable occasion in the history of the school, the boys were invited to the Palace of the Bishop to re ceive their annual prizes for good conduct and pro ficiency in their studies, at the hands of the venerable Prelate. The bright looks and general demeanour of Stanley attracted the notice of the Bishop, who, touching him upon the shoulder, said, " This is a clever boy, and if he has his health, he will make his mark." The heart of the fatherless boy was cheered by the gift of a Bible, as a special mark of favour from the Bishop.

This book was much valued by its possessor, through all the changing circumstances and varied fortunes of his youth, and it was taken with pride by him to the Palace some years after, when he returned from the American War in 1866. He had A Parish School-Teacher. 3 scarcely reached the age of sixteen when he left St. Asaph to assist a relative who was in charge of the parish school of Mold in Flintshire. At Mold, as formerly at St. Asaph, he appears to have gained the goodwill of his associates in the school, as well as the confidence and esteem of those whom he served. Although fitted by nature and inclination for a life of activity and bodily exertion, he was able at all times to appreciate and enjoy the companionship of clever books. He read everything that came in his way, and a friend who visited him at Mold on one occasion tells of his surprise at finding him intensely engaged, during the playhours, in the perusal of Dr. Johnson's instructive and charming story of " Rasselas."

A sturdy frame, full round features, a stubborn will, a quick temper, an attractive venturesomeness, and " the air of an uncompromising and deep fellow," were the prominent characteristics of Stanley at this time. It is not surprising, therefore, to find that the quiet, plodding life of a parish school teacher was by no means congenial to his restless and sensitive nature. He suddenly left Mold, and turning northward, he took the shortest road to Liverpool, resolved to find, in some land beyond the seas, a home and fortune for himself. With this purpose in view he made his way through Birkenhead to the crowded, busy quays and docks on the banks of the Mersey. Driven by his destitute condition to accept any offer of work which might be made him, he accepted an engagement with the captain of a small vessel, of an inferior class, to act as ship's boy on the passage to New Orleans, where he arrived after a dreary voyage of eight weeks.

The great and populous port of the Southern States was then at the b Henri M. Stanley. height of its commercial prosperity. Ships of all nations crowded its harbour, and the evidences of commercial success were visible on all sides in the splendid buildings and spacious mansions whichadorned this Venice of the New World. After some delay Stanley found a suitable post in one of the huge stores near the river, in which the shippers transacted their business. His diligence and energy soon commended him to his employer, who after a time, it is said, actually adopted him as his son. This was an eventful crisis in the career of the young Welshman, and as a practical specimen of his deep sense of the confidence thus shown in him, he determined to take the name of his patron — H. M. Stanley — in the place of his own, which had up to this time been John Rowlands .

Life was now opening in real earnest for him with a fair pro spect of speedy success in his new calling. He was regarded by friends and neighbours as a lucky youth, who would, without doubt, in good time, come to be the head of the house over which his foster parent presided. His career as a merchant's clerk was, however, brought to a sudden and complete termination. On the death of his benefactor, the whole of the property was taken over by the relatives of the deceased trader, and Stanley was once more adrift upon the world. He now made his way to the State of Arkansas, where he remained for two years. On the outbreak of the Civil War in 1861 he enlisted in the Army of the South, " joining," as he said in a speech which he made seven years afterwards, " the ranks of the enemies of his country because at the time he knew no better."

Having been taken prisoner in the battle of Pittsburg, on April 6th, 1862, he con- A Confederate Soldier and Federal Sailor. 5 trived to effect his escape, at the peril of his life, by swimming the river, under the fire of the sentries, in the dead of night. Some time after this he reappeared at Bddelwyddan in North Wales, where his mother had gone to reside. He made only a brief stay, how ever, in his native country, and after spending a few months at Liverpool, he re-embarked for America. The terrible conflict between North and South was still raging, and every effort was made to secure smart and eligible recruits for both services. Stanley was induced to enter the Federal Navy, and was promoted at the end of his first month of duty to the clerkship of the vessel to which he had been drafted.

The satisfactory manner in which he discharged the duties of his office soon secured for him the favourable notice of his superiors, and in less than a year we find he had become secretary to the admiral of the fleet on board the flag-ship Ticonderoga. The young writer soon showed something of the spirit that was in him. During a terrific engagement, in which the flag-ship was constantly under fire, he volunteered to swim off, in the face of a scathing discharge of shell from the enemy's batteries, over a distance of five hundred yards, and attach a hawser to a rebel steamer. This audacious feat was performed with complete success. The prize was drawn out of the harbour, and secured by the flag-ship, and the hero of the adventure was rewarded by being made an ensign upon the quarter deck of the Ticonderoga.

Stanley was frequently engaged in important naval operations from this time, and he took an active part in the final assault upon Fort Fisher on January 13th, 1865, which virtually decided the fate of the Confederacy. In 1866 the Ticonderoga was ordered to proceed upon a cruise in Southern Europe, and in the summer of that year, Stanley obtained leave of absence and left his ship at Constantinople, with a view to revisiting his Welsh home. His appearance amongst his old friends in the smart uniform of the United States Navy, and the accounts which had reached Denbigh and the neighbourhood, of his prosperous and distinguished career across the Atlantic, combined to make him now a person of some distinction and fame. He was heartily welcomed on all sides, and his reception at St. Asaph, when he visited his old school, was most enthusiastic.

He addressed the boys who were assembled to greet him in a cheery, practical speech, full of useful exhorta tions to ready obedience at all times to the call of duty. The boys were entertained at Mr. Stanley's expense, and they were granted the usual holiday in honour of their friend and visitor. It was previous to this visit to the Principality that Stanley met with some thrill ing experiences with armed outlaws in the heart of Syria. During the visit of the fleet to Constantinople, with two companions, he penetrated the country for about 100 miles east of Smyrna, when the party was attacked by brigands, who robbed them of everything they possessed and barely allowed them to escape with their lives. The unfortunate travellers returned to Constantinople, where their leader, with characteristic energy, at once wrote a graphic and telling account of their treatment to the Levant Herald, and com plained in no measured terms of the deplorable con dition of the Turkish provinces in Syria, and of the otiose and indifferent attitude of the authorities in Adventures in Asia Minor. 7 that province, where there seemed to be no real pro tection for either life or property.

The letter was as follows : — " OOTRAGE ON AMERICAN TRAVELLERS. " To the Editor of the "Levant Herald:' "Sir, — When about seven hours from Afiuna-Kara- Hissar, on the 18th September, en route for Tiflis and Thibet via Erzeroum, from Smyrna, I and my two companions, Mr. H. W. Cook of Illinois, and Master Lewis Noe of New York, were attacked by a band of robbers, hailing from the village of Chi-Hissar, headed by a fellow named Achmet of Kara-Hissar, and robbed of all our money, valuables and clothing, to the tune of about 80,000 piastres. It would occupy too much space were I to enter into minor details ; suffice it to state that after robbing us, they conveyed us as prisoners in triumph to Chi-Hissar, accusing us of being robbers, which brought down on our devoted heads unparalleled abuse from the villagers : the women pelted us with stones, the children spat at us, the men belaboured us unmercifully with sticks, clubs, and fire-tongs.