Travels and Voyages ... Eleventh edition

Front matter

Jt.Jlcrtt As W . LJÆ4M 1ITM & 0 W . Jj:: k&r'x j/tit/t ■■KfjtTr/y. /awl ATPXEESFf 'Sr//, '; * AM)' Staff. and Skafs.a.s ,3 did AtsfA /<W-.- APJc/i,/ w ofd Il.TjrM.miAMS Scepter tkm/L-: B/c (UtECJAgsattm/j dcstyml A>s/ yoARDAX fdMr fi/rd mtii sm&I? Smf>rs.siki,s tt>ps_ a Ga§&; fm'Jated Jf/mbs. >//> AA//A. sacM_ lliors %ik^_ TRAVELS $ VOYAGES THROUGH €urope, %&ia, an& Africa. FOR NINETEEN YEARS. CONTAINING AN ACCOUNT OF THE RELIGION, GOVERNMENT, POLICY, LAWS, CUSTOMS, TRADE, &C. OF THE SEVERAL COUNTRIES THROUGH WHICH THE AUTHOR TRAVELLED ; AND A DESCRIPTION OF JERUSALEM, AND MANY OTHER REMARKABLE PLACES MEN- TIONED IN SACRED AND PROFANE HISTORY. ALSO A NARRATIVE OF THE TORTURES HE SUFFERED IN THE SPANISH INQUISITION, AND OF HJS MIRACULOUS DELIVERANCE FROM THOSE CRUELTIES. BY WILLIAM LITHGOW.

TWELFTH EDITION. ILLUSTRATED WITH NOTES FROM LATER TRAVELLERS; LEITH: Printed hj William Reid & Co. FOR LONGMAN, HURST, REES, ORME & BROWN, LONDON ; ARCHIBALD CONSTABLE & CO. DOIG & STIRLING, JOHN- ANDERSON & CO. EDINBURGH; WILLIAM REID, LEITH; AND JOHN CUMMING, DUBLIN. 1814. THE PEOLOGUE TO THE READER. Judicious Lector, If good books may be termed wise guides, then certainly true histories may be termed perfect oracles, secret coun sellors, private schoolmasters, familiar friends to cherish know ledge ; and the best intelligencers for all intendments, being duly pondered, and rightly used. This laborious work then of mine, depending on this preamble, is only composed of mine own eye sight, and ocular experience ; (pluris est oculatus testis units, quam auriti decent) being the perfect mirror, and lively portraiture of true understanding ; excelling far all inventions whatsoever, poetic or theoric.

And now, to shun ingratitude, which I disdain as hell, I thought it best to exhibit the profit of my painful travels to the desirous world, for two respects : the one, a natural obligation ; the other, a general request : for as my dangerous adventures have been wrought out from the infinite variety of variable sights, in numerable toils, pleasures, and inevitable sorrows ; so doth it also best sympathize with reason, and most fitting, that I should ge nerally dispose of the same to the temperate judgments of the better sort, the sound and absolute opinions of the judicious, and to the variable censures of calumnious critics, who run at random in the fields of other mens labours, but cannot find the home-bred way in their own close ground. And therefore the different dis position of the good and bad, do best concur with the interchange able occurrences of the matter.

Part I. Thk

first plantation of Rome, ... Page i) The seven hills of Rome, and her seven several rulers, - 10 St Katharine of Siena, . • • 11 Pope Clement VIII. crowned Duke of Ferrara, . - 16 Tiber had almost overwhelmed Rome, - - ib. The Pilgrim's dinner at the Pope's table, - 12 Rome's autiquities and library, - .13 The brazen image of St Peter, and the superstition of Papists, - 15 The first plantation of Itjly, - - 22 A description of the kingdom of Naples, and of the four Papal territories, ...... 23 The Duke of Florence his patrimony, ... 24 Rome's avarice and ignorant devotion, - - 26 Damnable lies sprung from idolatrous Loretta, 27 The territories of Venice, - - - -36 The first plantation of Venice, - - >b. The Venetians are sprung from the Romans, - - 37

Part II

The antiquity of the Istrians, - 40 The Dalmatian Scots live under subjection to the house of Austria, 42 Ignorance and sloth, the two mothers of poverty and misery, 4 3 A monster born in Lesina, - - 46 The chief isles in the gulf of "Venice, and of the government, 47 Of the commonwealth of Ragusa, aud the limits of the kingdom of Sclavonia, - - - 4S Four thousand Spaniards starved to death, - - 49 George Castriot sirnamed Scanderbeg, - SO The invincible isle of Corfu, - - - 51 Ulysses was born at Iihaca, .-. «■ • = 52 A dangerous sea-fight, - . - - 53 Of the isle of Cephalonia, ... 55 Zante enriched with currants, - . . ib. Of the battle of Lepanto fought near to Morea, * - 57 The soil of Peloponnesus, - *'s Of scurrile Arcadia, - - - 59 Of the great Beglerbeg of Greece, . - - 63 Decayed Athens, now Salenos, '»• A mass-priest slain by a captain in a brothel, - 6i

Part III

Candy, of old, had a hundred cities, - - - 67 The governors and garrisons of Crete, subject to Venice, 63 An escape from murderers, - A French Protestant by me released from a galley, - - 71 The pleasant valley of Suda, - - - - "3 VI CONTENTS. Dedalus's labyrinth on Ida, - - Pag' 73 Of the great town of Candy, - - .15 Certain distances frrm Candy to Europe, Asia, and Africa, - 76 A description of all the isles, Cyclades, and Sporades, &s. - 79 The beautiful dames of Scio, and rich attire, - - 86 The heads of eight hundred Florentines cut off in the castle of Scio, 88 A blind cosmographer bred at Oxford, - - 90 Of the pursuit of two Turkish galliots, - - 92 A particular description of Greece, and the isle Nigroponti, ■ 96 False testimonies of vagabond Greeks dispersed abroad, - 99 An exact relation of Troy, and her famous antiquities, - 102 My passing the Hellespont sea to Constantinople, - 108

Part IV

Byzantium rebuilt by Constantine, - - 111 A French poltroon playing the palliard at the Galatta, - 114 Fearful pestilence and earthquakes, - - 115 The Duke of Moldavia turned Turk, at Constantinople, - 119 Of the Turkish churchmen, and their times of prayer, . 120 Circumcised Turks, - - ib. Babylon lately recovered by the Persians, - - ib. Of the birrh of Mahomet, and his falling sickness, - 121 Mahomet's laws, ... 122 The first titles of the Popes, ... 125 Mahomet's premise broke, - - 126 Of the Turk's justice, and marriages, - - 128 Turks paradise, - . - 131 Turks lent, and opinion of hell, - - ib. Of the cumber of all our Christian emperors in the east and west, 132 Of the first beginning of the Turks, - - 133 Turks are no scholars, yet great politicians, - - 136 Of the Great Turk's yearly revenues, - . 137 C.s the great forces of the Great Turk, - - 140

Part V

Bajazet, the Turkish emperor, taken by Tamerlane, the Scythian king, 143 The ancient city of Smyrna, - - 144 Wealth is the mother of vice, - - ib. The temple of Diana in Ephesus, sacked, burnt, and extinct, 145 The it.!e of Rhodes, and the idol Colossus, - ■ 347 Rhodes taken by Solyman the Magnificent, J522, » - 149 The iri^usolean tomb at Halicarnassus in Caria, - 150 The i&le of Cyprus replanted, - - - _ • 1 54 1 he Florentines attempt to conquer Cyprus, - 155 Tripoli, and of Mount Lihanus, - - - . 137 The bishop of Edc-n on Libanus, - - . _ 16(> ■ Turcomans accursed rites, - - m jg*~ 35eei bhack on Euphrates, my furthest travels in the east, - - }6G The Bashaw of Aleppo beheaded, - _ _ jg7 Damascus, and the forces of the bashaw thereof, - - 171 The special towns of the holy land, - . -178 My arrival in Jerusalem, - - . - J 93

Part VI

The ar.tiquities of Jerusalem, CONTENTS. VII The four hills of Jerusalem, and the triumph of Titus, - Page 196 The old overthrows, and present garrison of Jerusalem, - 197 The Jewish and Christian kings of Jerusalem, ... 199 The temple of Solomon thrice built and destroyed, - - 205 A dangerous voyage to Jordan, Mare Mortuum, and Jericho, - 206 The river Jordan, and the town of Jericho hard by, - - 210 A turpentine rod brought from Jordan, and given to King lames, - 211 The glorious chapel of the holy grave, - - - 219 Knights of the holy grave, - - - - 221 The burial-place of the kings and queens of Israel, - - 223 Christ's crib at Bethlehem, and Solomon's fish ponds, - - 225 Lazarus's tomb in Bethany, and of Mount Olivet, and the monuments there . - - - - 230 Grievous and fastidious travelling in the deserts of Arabia, - 23S The nature of camels and dromedaries, and of the Red Sea, - 241

Part VII

Two yearly seasons in reaping grain in Egypt, ... 244 Three Germans deaths in Caire, - ■ - ib. A favourable Turkish judgment, - - - 24.5 Of the great city of Grand Caire, - - 247 Of the length and bounds of Caire, • - - ib. Of the Egyptian decorations, ..... 249 Of the nature of the Egyptian Moors,' Christian Copties, and their religion, .... - . 250 Of the pyramids of Egypt, - - - -.281 Of the true knowledge of the flowing of the great river Nile, - 255 The alterations of Egypt, - - - 259 Of the revenues and confines of Egypt, . - - 260 The four patriarchal sees, - - - 262 Of the fabulous country of Cyrene, - - 263 A joyful arrival in Malta, .... 266 The nature of the Maltese, - - - 268 A Moorish brigantine taken, - ... 269 My arrival in Sicily, - - - - -270 An escape from murder, - - 271 The conclusion of my first travels, - - 273

Part VIII

Of the necessary use and honour of travels for divers respects, - 277 Weisle taken by Spineola, - - - - 277 The fabulous miracles of Culloine - ... 278 Of the lake ot Geneva, and of the river Rhone, - - 280 The first beginning of the Dukes of Savoy, and of their state, - 231 Of the liberty of banditti in Calabria, and of the country itself, . 283 Greek Albaneses fled to Calabria from Albania in Epire, - 284 Two Sicilian barons killed in combs t for love of a lady, - - 285 Of the divers plantations of Carthage, - - - * 286 The marine provinces betwixt Tunis and Algier, and their names, 2S7 An English pirate, Captain Waird, - - - 2SS Of the towns of Tremisen and Algier, and of their territories, - 2SO Monsieur Chatteline, a French lapidary, and of our arrival at Fez, 29..' My voyage from Fez to Libya, and back to Tunis, - - i'y CONTENTS. VIII

Part IX

The hatching of chickens, without their mothers, - - - Page 303 The formal oaths of the Knights of Malta, and their order, - ■'Ob The first plantation of Sicily, and of their laws now, and then living SO. Of Mount Ætna, and the last fire, - * 3' The Sicilian tyrants, - •■ The Sicilian customs, - - ' A boiling fountain in tsha, - - Of Sibylla's cave and dining-room, - - J™ The antiquities of Puzzolo, - - . - . The false and arrogant title of the Pope's pretended authority, - -is** A crew of diabolical Popes, - - - * ' Ravenna the chief city of Romania, Vienna in Austria, and the special towns of Hungary, - >"• A description of Transylvania, Poland is the nurse of Scotland's common younglings, - - 336

Part X

Of the four provinces of Ireland, and the Irish manners and liviDg 340 My departure from Ireland to France, ""*.•■" S.*,f Of the fantastic foolery of the French, ■?•-." " Biscay, in Spain, a barren place, - - - - 35° A damnable delusion of a devilish miracle at St Domingo, •» 352 The kingdom of Portugal, .... ib. Naked ambition conferred upon poor Toledo, - - My unhappy arrival at Malaga, ... 357 Their accusations of treason against me, - - 359 His Majesty's letters and seals fnisregarded, ... 361 Of the manner of their rack, and cruel torturing of me thereupon, 367 The sentence of their inquisition, - 3 7 ' God's miraculous mercy in discovering and delivering of me, - 380 A brief description of Scotland, and the Circumjacent isles, - 391 Clydesdale, the paradise of Scotland, ... 395 Carse and Murray, two pleasant soils, - - 394 The nobility aud gentry of Scotland, the best house-keepers, and most generous gentlemen in the world, - - 395 Prodigal and superfluous posting from Scotland to court, - 396 A dutiful remembrance of two noble persons, ... ib.

Sir William Sinclair's motto, - - - S98 A dangerous place iu Pentland frith, - 400 Zetland mightily impoverished by corrupt government, - 401 Remarks on a strange sort of geese in the Orkneys, - - 402 The wonderful stones on Salisbury-plain, ... 40S A wonderful rock near Halford, - - ib. Many strange things observed, ... ib. The peak of Derby, and a strange discovery, ... 404 The miracle of K. Edmond's head, - - - 405 St Wmnefred's well, and other things, - - ib. — How it first sprung up, &c. ... 406 The musical cave in Glamorganshire, - - 407 Vulcan's forge, - Ar fiAP Q^. - ib. An ebbing and flowing well, * - - - ib. The remarkable story of Jetzer, and the friars of Bern, - ib. THE TRAVELS OF WILLIAM LITHGOW.

Part I. The First Eook Of Jiy Travels

See Rome discover _1, Italy made plain, The Roman library, a golden gain : Hunns old Parthenope with Venice met, Ancl strong Brundusium in Ottranto set : Time's rich antiquities display 'd abroad On circling Cume, Avernus lying odd : And Loret. s chapel, four times been transported On angels backs, from Nazareth detorted ; Where for discourse, on this false forged lady, To tend you with inveiglings, shall be ready. Thus piece and piece, from soil to soil, 111 go,' And now begin ; the end will deeper grow. It was a wise saying amongst the ancients, That thrice hap py, and blessed was that kingdom, when old men bore sway and ruled the state, and young men travelled abroad : the first by long experience prudently to execute judgment ; and the latter, by sight and knowledge of foreign countries and laws growing more judicious, might, when come to age and preferment, with more facility and dexterity exhibit justice A tITHSOW _ TRAViihS 2 at home.

But what shall I say to these modern and disso lute times ? when, by the contrary means, travel is slighted, government abused, and insinuating homelings thrust into high offices that are incapable of them, being prattling par rots, and sounding cymbals; who convert sound judgment and justice to their own selfish and mercenary ends, turning their chief felicity to avaricious ambition and vain-glory, and their good fortunes to their belly and their back. O miserable and effeminate age ! when virtue by most men is despis ed and neglected, and sensual vice every where exalted: Nay, ruffian Pandors, by hopeful youth and prodigal gal lants, are now clothed, coached, and richly rewarded, whilst the highest merits and deserts of men of genius are neither looked to, set by, nor regarded. And for approbation and example's sake of their valorous designs, let them think up on latter passages, not worthy to be thought upon, and they will find this future caveat to stand needful, Hæc olim memi nisse juvabit.

So likewise now every Capricullion, from Cæ sar to the Pascorell, can crowd and chaw, from his warbling waspishness, this stinging censure of absurd untruth, That travellers and poets may lie, and lie by authority, which they themselves perform at home without leave. By which traditional concession, I, absolute in the being first, and born to the Muses, as to the world, a mongrel to both, may have a lawful (unlawful) liberty assigned. Is there any marvel if men in this kind be so injuriously censured, when the itself, A- Concerning sinistrous censures. very gospel by perfidious theists, Formalists, Sophisters, Romish-Rabbins, Nullifidians, and schismatical sectaries, is quartered, mangled, and reject ed ? Such be the Satanical opinion's of this hell-born ao_ whose confused conceits, blasphemies, incredulities, and ima ginary divisions, have shamefully stained the better part of this now best world.

Nay, good and godly kings, so pricked at and wounded by the viperous murmurings of miscreant yillanies, as though their royal and just lives were the mere inordinate patterns of all impiety and lewdness. Since there fore the sacred scriptures, the gods of the earth, ecclesiastic columes, yea, the name and fame of the most righteous alive be thus diversely taxed, and vituperiously calumniated can prevention in me escape the lawless horroiof this impoisoned fury? No; I have had already the assault, and newly 1Dr, _ Part I. 3 AND voyages. pared patience proof to receive more, wrought by the pier cing hammer of nineteen winters, as many summers dear bought toil. Let venom-thundering critics contumeliously carp, infernal fire-brand Cerberans bark, and the hell-prepared offscourings of true religion gnashing grudge, 1 have a heart can smile at their backbiting malice, a judgment to discern such wormish wasps, and, if present, the weight of understanding truth to confound llieir blind absurdities with reason.

As for chamber-complimenters, whose vast in sides, like to the vaults of wasting Strombolo, are become thread-bare, having their outsides only adorned with rich ornaments, Such serving cyphers, cypher childish censures, And shallow scal-patcli'd pates, have forebald tonsures. Yet touch a C. flat in his face hell start, .As though a dame had grae'd him with a — — Whose wringes, winks, whose curious smiles and words. And scraping feet lost blandishment affords : Whence pride and lust, become two servile minions To top his thoughts with false and fond opinions : Then happy they, who least frequent a court, Nor in the fields of flattery love to sport. To such bellowing caves, winded with the borrowed rags of patched up comedies, clouted compliments, stolen phrases, and lip-licked labours, of lamp-living spirits ; to such hollow tombs, I say a tush for their kindness, and I justly hold it a manifest idolatry to honour or do homage to any of them.

And thus much for the misconstruous lack-judgment of emu lating clouds, no courtiers. And as concerning the impos trate quagmires of this abortive age, wherein so many simo naical Machiavelians, mercenary parasites, and arch-betray ing sycophants live, vindicating themselves excessively upon the advantage of time, I, insufficient I, to dive in such bottomless business, bequeath them only to their own repining consciences, just trials, and ignominious rewards. To satisfy the world in my behalf as touching my travels, I sincerely protest, that neither ambition, too much curiosity, nor any reputation I ever sought from The reason the bubbling breath of breathless man, (whose why the au defective censure inclineth as instigation or thor begun partiality moveth his weak and variable opihis travels.

A LITHGOW _ TKAVELS 4 nion), did expose me to such long peregrinations and dan gerous adventures past. But the proceeding whereof, thousands conjecture the cause, as many the manner, ten thousand thousands the effect : The condition reserved, I partly for bear to penetrate in that undeserved Dalida wrong ; and re conciled time's pleading desistance, moderate discretion in serteth silent patience. The mansuete cup, the gods consuetly drunk, In me involr'd, straight honey-glad it sunk ; That sweet Ambrosian nectar, soundly wrapt In my lock'd closet, suspicious Envy trapt ; And fierce-ey'd Jealousy, winged with wind, Pierc'd staring Argos, turn'd his hundred blind : Mycene fancy-fraught, lust's fond alarms, Cross'd eye-star'd Sparta, wrapt with Phrygian charms, And tearrent Sophyre, Sinon-like, betray 'd What votal oaths, love's stern fort ne'er bewray'd : But high-bred drifts, the stormy fates, grim night, And glbomy Hellespont, robb'd. Hero's right, As Ilion's destiny, forc'd Numidia's queen To gore a sceptre, a diadem in teen : So hapless I belov'd, O passion strange !

May as amaz'd, admire that time, this change. I chang'd a' wolf once for a tusked boar, And changing beast for beast, triumph'd the more : Strain'd to assume, in countercombiat breath, A dying life, revert in living death ; Translate it so, my metaphor is such, That time, nor I, nor Fortune, can avouch. Thus passion whirling in a cloudy vale, I trancing fly, I fall, I hovering scale : And whilst from Phleg'ran fields, the weirds me call, I in Elysian plains am forc'd to fall ; Where in some flow ry fair enamell'd ground I'll place my tomb, mine epitaph shall sound, Of train-shut sluices, of the Thespian spring. Where chatt'ring birds, Dodonean trees do sing, And mild Hydaspes streams do gently flow, There shall my Lesbian lays, sad lyrics show. And where the Borean roses strow the hall, Where flot-glass'd nymphs, the Circe fled?

Greeks enstal ; Part I. 5 AND V0YA-8-. There shall shrill Triton sound, Armilla's stain' d, Whom foul affection prey'd, and lucre gain'd; Load with the filth of dallying lust and sin, Where bloody murder, like a thief crept in : Yet shall the spotless heart triumph in truth, When worth reaps fame, and virtue conquers youth, And crown Dorasmos, faith-plight Delphian bays, With more than laurel praise, immortal rays. Than brass-brow'd fiends, accurs'd by Minos doom, Flee fairy light, to Pluto whence you come ; And taste Phlageton, Lethe, court Proserpine,' Stern Radamanth attends such stinking vermin. There Hippolitus, slain Pirothous stay Near t' Acheron, (all faithless lovers way), To welcome fiendly, fright Eremial guests With flame-flash'd lire brands, sulphur-scorching tastes, Chain'd fury brangling, in remorseless pain, Where Belzebub and Lucifer remain.

In this umbrageous cell, there lurks a hound To bear Sarpedon's sceptre ; help to sound Your Cleopatran clamours, and I think The ferrier Charon makes such wretches drink, Upon the Stygian banks. Then gnashing spirits, That howling wail hell's inexpugnate merits, Where's all your gentry ? for I dare conclude, That virtue's better born than noble blood : This epitomiz'd epilogue I send To them who best can censure't ; there's an end. But by your leave, let me enter into consideration of the intractable passage of my malecontents past, and these impor tunate designs thereupon ensuing : And thus have I, in the late days of my younger years, been grievously afflicted ; ah, yea and with more than disastrous injuries overclouded. O heavy under-propped wrongs ! But hath not the like accident befallen to man before ? yea, but never the like condition of murder.

Nay, but then preponderate seriously this consequent : May not the wicked hands of four blood-shed ding wolves easily devour, and shake to pieces, one silly straggling lamb ? yea, and most certain, that, unawares, the harmless innocent, unexpecting evil, may suddenly be sur prised by the ambushment of life-betraying foes. All this I LITHGOw's TRAVELS 6 acknowledge ; but whereupon grew this thy voluntary wandering, and unconstrained exile? I answer, That being young, and within minority, in that occurrent time, I was not only inveigled, but by seducements inforced, even by the greatest powers then living in my country, to submit myself to arbitrement satisfaction and reconciliation. A dialogue But afterward growing in years, and under letween the standing better the nature of such unallowabl author and redresr., and the heinousuess of the offence, I himself chused rather (voti causa) to seclude myself from my country, and exclude my relenting sorrows, to be entertained with strangers, than to have a, quotidian ocular inspection, in any obvious object of disas trous misfortune ; or perhaps any vindicable action might, from an unsettled rancour, be conceived.

O ! a plain demon strate cause, and good resolution ; for true it is, that the flying from evil, is a flying to grace ; and a godly patience is a victorious freedom, and an undaunted conqueror over all wrongs : " Vengeance is mine, saith the Lord, and I will re pay it." To this I answer, Mine eyes have seen the reveng ing hand of God upon mine adversaries, and these night gaping foes are trampled under foot, whilst I, from strength to strength, do safely go through the fiery trial of calamities. My consolation arising from his eternal dictum, Quos amo cas tigo; whom I love I correct : And to say my part in my soul's experience, I never find affliction fall on me Without desert ; for God is true and just ; Nor shall it come, and without profit be, For God is good, as merciful, I trust. Then welcome all afflictions sent from God, He whom he loves, he chasteneth with his rod.

And as one of the ancients speaketh well, " Adversa cor poris, animæ remedia sunt ; ægritudo camera vulnerat, sed mentem curat :" The affliction of the body is wholesome physic for the soul, it woundeth the flesh, but cureth the spi rit. Certain it is, that the Lord, in chastising his own, doth often move the wicked reprobates of his wrath, to be the in struments of his correcting hand. I could write as large a discourse upon this heart-grieving project, as upon the late Part I AND VOYAGES. 7 intolerable tortures I sustained by the treacherous governor and bloody inquisition of Malaga in Spain ; being in quality, though not in quantity, alike. But constantly containing myself within the precinct of patience, referring such emi nences to the Creator, which in a part belongeth not to the creature ; I may sigh to this world, as sorrowful Æneas to his Dido ; Insandum, Regina, jubes renovare dolorem.

Thou wouldst I should renew my former grief, To speak of sorrow, helpless of relief : He melts in woes, who uttereth grief with words, Whilst deepest streams the greatest calm affords. But now to proceed in my punctual purpose. The nature of man, by an inward inclination, is always inquisitive of foreign news, yea, and much more aff'ecteth the sight and knowledge of strange and unfrequented kingdoms; such is the instinct of his natural affection. Navigation hath often united the bodies of realms together, but travel hath done much more. For, first, It giveth to the actor the impression of understanding, experience, patience, and an infinite trea sure of inexpressible virtues. Secondly, It unfoldeth to the world, the government of states, the authority and disposi tion of kings and princes, the secrets, manners, customs, and religions of all nations and people.

And, lastly, bringeth sa tisfaction to the home-dwelling man, of those things he would have seen, and could not attempt. Travel hath been in more request among the ancients than it is now with us in the lat ter age. How philosophers, poets, historiographers, and learned divines, have peregrinated to know the life of states, and the fashions of far countries, would be an endless task to me briefly to relate. Many, I confess, long to see the re motest regions of the earth, but dare not undertake the dan gers of sight, the chargeable expences of a tributary journey, the hard endurance of flint-stones, for a soft feather bed, the extremities of thirst, nor the parching heat of the sun, hun ger in the belly, nor the moist distilling dew to be a humid coverlet to their tender skin, with innumerable other en suing miseries ; but, Ixion like, mistaking Juno, would, by a mere imagination, run out the sleeping course of an endless LITHG0W _ TRAVELS peregrination.

For my part, what I have reaped is by a dear bought knowledge, as it were a small contentment, in a never contenting subject, a bitter pleasant taste of a sweet-seasoned sour ; and, all in all, what I found was more than ordinary rejoicing, in an extraordinary sorrow of delights. But now to leave the contemplation of attempts, I come to the real adventure. After two voyages I made to the Or cadian and Zetlandian isles, in the stripling age of my youth, and thereafter surveying all Germany, Bohemia, Helvetia, and the Low Countries, from end to end, I visited Paris, where I remained ten months. Divers contests have I had about the equality of London and Paris in quantity and quality : but having a more serious subject in hand than this parallel, I conclude thus : The infinite ship- A comparison ping, and commodious navigation of London, between Lon- (besides their universal commerce), is of more don and Paris, value, than the better half of Paris : compare you the quantity, for there is the quality ot the argument.

Paris, I confess, is populous, a mass of poor peo ple, for lacqueys and pages, a nest of rogues, a tumultuous place, a nocturnal den of thieves, and a confused multitude : where, contrariwise, London is adorned with many grave, prudent, and provident senators, civil, well-taught, and cour teous people, and absolutely the best governed city on the whole face of the earth, as well by night as by day, and no thing inferior in quantity to it *. • The city of Paris is said to be five leagues, or fifteen miles, in circumfer ence : and if it is really so, it must be much more populous than London • for the streets are very narrow, and the houses very high, with a different fa mily on every floor. But I have measured the best plans of these two royal cities, and I am certain that Paris does not take up near so much ground as London and Westminster occupy ; and I suspect the number of its inhabitant! is also exaggerated by those who s»f it amounts to eight hundred thousand that is, two hundred thousand more than are contained in the bills of mortals ty.

The hotels of the French noblesse at Paris take up a great deal of room with their court-yards and gardens, and so do their convents and churches It must be owned indeed, that their streets are wonderfully crowded with people and carriages. Woman has been designed a weaker man ; but in France the men are in my opinion, more tidiculous and insignificant than the women ; they certain. ly are more disagreeable to a rational inquirer, because they a're more troublesome. Of all the coxcombs on the face of the earth, a French petit-mai. tre is the most impertinent ; and they are all petit-maitres, from the Marquis who glisters in lace and embroidery, te ibe garjou barbier covered with Part I. A»D VOYAGES. 9 From Paris, in the year of God, 1609, March 7, I set for ward, being brought three leagues on my way, with a num ber of my country-gallants, young Aiton, young Hutonhal, and especially Monsieur Hay of Smithfield, now Esquire of his Majesty's body-guards, with divers other gentlemen : where, when my kindest thanks had overclouded their cour tesies, and farewel bid on both sides, I bequeathed my pro ceedings to God, my body to turmoiling pains, my hands to the burden, and my feet to the hard bruising way.