Picturesque New Guinea. With an historical introduction and supplementary chapters on the manners and customs of the Papuans; ... with ... illustrations, etc

Introduction

AND SUPPLEMENTARY CHAPTERS ON THE MANNERS AND CUSTOMS OF THE PAPUANS accompanied with FIFTY FULL-PAGE AUTOTYPE ILLUSTRATIONS FROM NEGATIVES OF PORTRAITS FROM LIFE AND GROUPS AND LANDSCAPES FROM NATURE. BY J. W. LINDT, F.R.G.S. LONDON: LONGMANS, GREEN, AND CO., 1887. [All rights reserved.] CH1SWICK PRESS :— C. WHITTINGHAM AND CO., T00KS COURT, CHANCERY LANE. UBctrtcatcti BY PERMISSION WITH PKOFOTJNDEST RESPECT TO HER MOST GRACIOUS MAJESTY QUEEN VICTORIA, BY J. W. LIN DT, IN THE YEAR OF HER MAJESTY'S JUBILEE, 1887. Plate II. PORTRAIT OF AUTHOR, J. W. LINDT, F.R.G.S. To face Preface.

Preface

OR years past, when perusing the account of exploring expeditions setting out for some country comparatively unknown, I always noticed with a pang of disappointment that, however carefully the scientific staff was chosen, it was, as a rule, considered sufficient to supply one of the members with a mahogany camera, lens, and chemicals to take pictures, the dealer fur nishing these articles generally initiating the purchaser for a couple or three hours' time into the secrets and tricks of the " dark art," or when funds were too limited to purchase instruments, it was taken for granted that enough talent existed among the members to make rough sketches, which would afterwards be " worked up " for the purpose of illustrating perhaps a very important report. Sir Samuel Baker remarks, in the Appendix to one of his Works, that a photographer should accompany every exploring expedition.

The only one I ever heard of being furnished with that commodity was H. M.S. "Challenger," on her scientific cruise round the world, but I remember reading in the " Photographic News " the complaint of a gentleman, that so many years had already passed, and still there was no sign of the " Challenger " photographs ever becoming accessible to the public. How this is, or why it should be so, is difficult to tell, but as yet no book of travel, entirely illustrated by artistic views and portraits taken

PREFACE.

. direct from nature, has come under my notice. According to my belief, there can be but one reason for it, and that is the difficulties encountered to find a competent artist photographer willing to join an expedition are greater than those necessary to secure the services of someone who can sketch, and hence artistic photography, the legitimate and proper means to show friends at home what these foreign lands and their inhabitants really look like, is set aside for drawings, either partly or purely imaginary.1 Ever since I first passed through Torres Straits in September, 1868, I conceived an ardent desire to become personally acquainted with those mysterious shores of Papua and their savage inhabitants. I travelled this route on board a Dutch sailing vessel, and weird indeed were the tales that circulated among the crew concerning the land whose towering mountain ranges were dimly visible on our northern horizon.

But years passed by, and time had almost effaced the impression, until I made the acquaintance of Signor L. M. D'Albertis, the intrepid Italian, who ex plored the Fly River higher up than anyone has ventured since. This occurred in 1873. Signor D'Albertis visited the Clarence River, in New South Wales, where I lived for many years, by way of recruiting his health after his voyages to N. W. New Guinea. How I fretted that circumstances prevented me from accompanying him on his first trip in the " Newa," and how I envied young AVilcox (the son of a well known Naturalist residing on the Clarence) being engaged as assistant collector, 1 Though this book was written and the pictures taken under this impression, I found, on arrival in England, that several works of travel illustrated by photography have been published.

I had the pleasure of meeting Mr. John Thomson, F.R.G.S., of Grosvenor Street, who showed me his magnificent and interesting work on " China aud its Peoples." I examined also Sir Lepel Griffin's clever work, " Famous Monu ments of Central India," and a little book on Tahita, by Lady Brassey, ably illustrated by Col. H. Stuart-Wortley. The illustrations in these Works consist -without exception of photographs printed in autotype, and the inspection of these books and their pictures at once put me face to face with the countries described and their inhabitants, far more vividly than could works illustrated by wood engravings, where, for truth, the reader depends firstly on the individual conception of the artist, and secondly on the skill of the engraver.

PREFACE.

. IX no one knows but myself. Again some years elapsed, and when next I met D'Albertis it was at Melbourne, in 1878. His personal reminiscences, and subsequently the reading of his interesting work, powerfully awakened my desire again for a trip to New Guinea. But circumstances were still adverse, and it was only when rumours of annexation became rife, and the Rev. Mr. Lawes visited Melbourne early in 1885, that the prospect of visiting the land of my dreams began to assume a more tangible form. Mr. Lawes, hearing me speak so enthusiastically about my long cherished desire, assured me of his readiness to assist, and of hospitality, should I come to 'Port Moresby. The reverend gentleman's kindness and goodwill were amply proved, as my narrative will show, but be it here recorded, with due deference, I believe he doubted at that time the likelihood of ever seeing me sit at his table in the broad verandah of the mission house, listening to Mr. H. 0.

Forbes' reminiscences of the interior of Sumatra (the exhumation and ultimate fate of " that Kubu woman " to wit). A month or so after Mr. Lawes' departure from Australia, the papers reported the intelligence that Sir Peter Scratchley had been appointed High Commissioner for the Protectorate of New Guinea, and that a properly equipped expedition was to be sent to investigate the newly acquired territory. Now or never was my chance. Colonel F. T. Sar good kindly introduced me to Sir Peter. I offered to accompany the expedition as a volunteer, finding myself in every requisite, and giving copies of the pictures I should succeed in taking in return for my passage and the necessary facilities to develop and finish my negatives on board. My offer was accepted by Sir Peter, and on July 15th, 1885, I received notice to join the " Governor Blackall," the vessel selected for the expedition, then lying in Sydney Harbour.

The command of the "Governor Blackall" was entrusted to Captain T. A. Lake, the senior captain of the A. S. N. Company's fleet, who, throughout the voyage, sustained his high character as a skilful navigator among coral reefs, and proved himself a man of tact and decision, i;

PREFACE.

. X qualities that were more than once put to the test during our cruise. Before launching into the description of the expedition, I wish to record here my deep sense of obligation to the gentlemen who kindly aided in the production of this Work by contributing chapters of valuable infor mation. In the first place my thanks are due to the Rev. James Chalmers, who kindly continued the thread of the narrative, and brought it to a conclusion, when I was obliged to leave the expedition at Samarai (Dinner Island) about a month before the lamented death of Sir Peter Scratchley. I am also greatly indebted for his interesting paper on " The Manners and customs of the Papuans." On that subject no better source of information than him could be found. To Mr. G. S. Fort I offer my best thanks for presenting me with his Official Report of the Expedition.

The same recognition is clue to Sir Edward Strickland, the President of the Royal Geographical Society of Australasia, for the permission to em body in my journal the interesting account of the "Bonito" Expedi tion, undertaken under the auspices of the Royal Geographical Society almost simultaneously with ours. My appeal to Mr. Edelfeld, now ex ploring in Motu Motu, met with a ready response from that gentleman in the shape of travelling experiences in the neighbourhood of Mount Yule. Last, but not least, I have to thank my learned countryman and friend, Sir Ferdinand Baron Von Miiller, the eminent Botanist, for the promise of a valuable essay from his pen, although, unhappily, the pres sure of departmental work on his hands is at present so severe that his contribution cannot be ready for this, the first edition of my book ; and I cannot conclude without acknowledging my indebtedness to Commander H. Field, of H. M. Surveying Schooner " Dart," and to his able officers, Lieutenants Messum and Dawson, not forgetting Dr. Luther, who, with their uniform kindness and courtesy, made my return journey on board that vessel a perfect pleasure trip.

J. W. LlNDT Melbourne, 1887. P.S.— With regard to the publication of this Work much credit is due to Mr. Bird, of the Autotype Company. Arriving as I did, a stranger in

PREFACE.

. XI London, this gentleman materially lightened my labours by introducing me to Messrs. Longmans, the publishers, and contributing his experience freely. My thanks are also due to Mr. Sawyer and his clever staff, for the masterly reproduction of my pictures, upon which the success of the book mainly depends. CONTENTS PAGE Preface vn

Chapter I

— Historical Account of New Guinea. Geographical Positions — First Discoveries — First Explorers — The Missionaries — Dutch Settlement — English Surveys of the Coast — Attempts of Australian Settlement — Annexation by Queensland — Refusal of Imperial Sanction — Australian Colonists Remonstrate — Proposal of a British Protectorate — Annexation by Great Britain — Dissatisfaction of the Colonists — Announcement of German Occupation — Arrival of Sir Peter Scratchley — His first Proceedings and Premature Death — Appointment of a Successor — The German Settlement ............. 1

Chapter II

— From Sydney to New Guinea. Colonists Demand Annexation of New Guinea — Lord Derby's Vacillation — Appiointnient of Sir Peter Scratchley as High Commissioner — His Arrival and first Proceedings — Departure from Sydney — Pathetic Parting of the Commissioner and his Family — A Sabbath Day on Board — Northwards to Brisbane — Description of the " Governor Blackall " — Music hath Charms to soothe the hardy Seaman's breast — An Eminent Naturalist — Geutle Savages — Departure from Brisbane — A New Patent Log — The Tragedy of Percy Island — A Strange Ocean Product — An Island Paradise — An Apron Signal — Townsville — Meeting with a " Vagabond " — Cooktown — The Tragedy of Lizard Island — New Guinea in Sight . . . . . . . .11

Chapter III

— First Landing in New Guinea. First View of Papua — Breakers Ahead — Haven of Safety reached — First Welcome — The Missionary and his Wife — Excursion to Rano Falls planned — Native Villages on the Littoral — Frolicsome Young Savages — A Degraded Race — CONTENTS. XIV PAGE ■yl A Tribe of Potters — A Strange Flotilla — Preparations for Excursion — A Christian Sabbath in a Savage Land — Elevating Lifluence of Christianity — A Photographer's Impedimenta — First Lauding — Religious Service in the Motu Language — " Granny " the Prime Minister — A Start resolved on — A Guide and Carriers engaged — Also a Native Head Cook . . . .27

Chapter IV

— First Excursion in New Guinea. Orders to March — Heavy Travelling — Tropical Creek — Sure-footed Mountain Steeds — Native Hunting Camp — Luncheon in the Forest — Smoking the Bau Bau — Good Country for Horse-breeding — Koiari Kangaroo-hunting — The Hunter's Feast — The Koiari Tribe — Splendid Natural Panorama — Morrison's Explorations — Camp for the Night— Perilous Journeying — The Alligators' Haunt — Night in the Papuan Forest — Frightening the Devil — Fears of Danger from Natives dispelled — Morning in the Forest — A Purpose abandoned — Strike for a Koiari Village — Savage Gourmands — Steep Mountain Ascent — Magnificent Mountain Scenery — A Koiari Welcome — A Mountain Village — Dwellings on the Tree-tops — A Koiari Chief — Photographer in Koiari — Hospitable Offer — A Koiari Household — Great White Chief — Buying a Pig — A Koiari Interior — A Papuan Meal — Conference of Chiefs — Papuan Etiquette — A Tribal Feud — Uncomfortable Night — Superb Mountain Views — The Photographer in a Koiari Village — Return to the Port — A Ruined Village — Native Remains — Encounter Mr. Forbes — Missionary Hospitality .

Chapter V

— Excursion up the Aroa River. Site Fixed for Government House and Buildings — Bootless Inlet — Lakatoi Trading Vessels — Native Regatta — Quit Port Moresby for Redscar Bay — Landing of the Party — The Mouth of the Aroa — Ascent of the Stream — Reflections on Land-tenure — Visit to Ukaukana Village — Interview with the Head Chief of Kabadc — Exchange of Presents — Adventures returning to Camp — Night Alarms — The Vari Vara Islands — Back to Port Moresby .... 46

Chapter VI

— A Coasting Expedition. Arrival of H.M.S. " Raven " — Trade Winds — Site for Government Stores — Inland Party organized — Arrival off Tupuselei — Coast Scenery — A Papuan Venice — Sir Peter Scratehley's Visit to Padiri— Sickness among the Party — A Native Peud — Attack apprehended — Kapa Kapa — A Group of Mourners— Mangoes — Birds of Paradise — A Palaver — Continuation of the Voyage . . CONTENTS. XV page 95

Chapter VII

— An Expedition Inland. Walk from Hula to Kalo — Cocoanut Groves — Native Diseases — Mortality — History of the Reprisals for Murdering— Price of a Wife— Matrimonial Customs — The Author leaves Kalo — Crossing a River — Arriving at Hood Lagoon — Rejoin the Ship 64 CHAPTER VIH.— Native Villages. Scenery at the Hood Lagoon — Kerepunu, Hula — Fracas between the Ship's Company and Natives — Beneficial Results — Start for Aroma— A Native Chief as Passenger — Parimata — Moapa — The Aroma District — Departure for Stacey Island — The Scenery Described 70

Chapter IX

— South Cape. Bertha Lagoon — Garihi — Ascent of the Peak — East Shores of the Lagoon — ■ Under Way — The Brumer Group — Rendezvous at Dinner Island — Murder of Captain Miller — Investigations at Teste Island ..... 78

Chapter X

— Searches for Murderers. Return to Dinner Island — Rendezvous with H.M.S. " Diamond " and " Raven " — Excursion to Heath Island — Departure for Normanby Island — Diaveri — An Exciting Chase — Fruitless Negotiations — Capture of an Alleged Murderer — A Mistake aud its Rectification — The Real Simon Pure — His Adventures in Sydney— Return of the Author in H.M.S. " Dart " 85

CHAPTER XL

— Mr. Chalmers' Narrative. Visit to Killerton Islands — The Juliade Islands — Reprisals for the Murder of Captain and Mrs. Webb — Colombier Point — Unsuccessful Attempt to Communicate with Natives — Hoisting the Union Jack at Moapa — Inland Excursion to Koiari Villages — Ascent of Mount Variata — Meet Mr. Forbes — Sogeri — Mr. Forbes' Station — Return to Port Moresby and Hula — Bentley Bay — Ascent of Mount Killerton — Illness of Sir Peter Scratchley — Character of the Coast — The Jabbering Islands — From Collingwood Bay to Cape Nelson — Mountains and Harbours — Departure of the " Governor Blackall " for Australia — Hlness of Sir Peter Scratchley— His Death — His Funeral . CONTENTS. XVI

Appendix

I.— British New Guinea. Report on British New Guinea, from Data and Notes by the Late Sir Peter Scratchley, Her Majesty's Special Commissioner, by Mr. G'. Seymour Fort, Private Secretary to the late Sir Peter Scratchley, R.E., K.C.M.G. 135

APPENDIX.

n.— "The Bonito" Expedition. Captain Everill's Report of the Royal Geographical Society's Expedition to the " Fly, Strickland, Service, and Alice Rivers " 167

APPENDIX.

HI. — German New Guinea Exploration LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. PLATE PAGE 1. Motu Water Carrier, Port Moresby Frontispiece 2. Portrait of Author, J. W. Lindt, F.R.G.S to face Preface 3. Portraits of the Revs. S. McFarlane, G. W. Lawes, aud James Chambers . 6 4. "The Start." Sir Peter Scratchley, his Staff and Party of Friends, S.S. " Governor Blackall " 8 5. Women making Pottery .......... 12 Loading Lakatoi, Port Moresby ......... 12 6. Lakatoi, or Motu Trading Vessel, under Sail ....... 14 7. Lakatoi near Elevala Island . . . . . . . . . .16 Elevala Island, from Mission Station ........ 16 8. Koiari Chtefs 20 9. The Haunt of the Alligator, Laloki River 22 10. Roasting Yams for Breakfast, Badeba Creek ....... 24 11. Near the Camp, Laloki River ......... 28 12. Sadara Makara, Koiari Village near Bootless Inlet ..... 30 13.

The Village Pet at Sadara Makara 32 14. Tree-house, Koiari Village .......... 36 15. Motu Girls, Port Moresby, also Paro Paro Apple Tree 38 16. Sir Peter Scratchley's Camp, near Mouth of Aroa River, Redscar Bay . . 40 17. Native House at Vanuabada, Kabade District .44 18. Native Teachers, Kabade District ......... 46 19. Village of Koilapu, Port Moresby . . .48 20. At Low Water, Native Houses at Koilapu ....... 52 21. H. O. Forbes and Party of Malays, also Captain Musgrave and Mr. Lawes . 54 22. Tupuselei (Marine Village) from the Shore 56 23. The Chief's House, Marine Village of Tupuselei 60 24. Women of Tupuselei going for Water ........ 62 25. Mangrove Scrub, near Kaele ....... 64 C LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. XVIII PLATE PAGE 26. Group of Natives at Kapa Kapa, central figures in mourning ... 68 27.

The Kalo Creek, Kapa, Kapa District ' . .70 28. New Guinea Trophy, Weapons and Implements ...... 72 29. Native House at the Village of Kamali 76 30. The Chief's Spire House at Kalo (in course of re-construction) ... 78 31. Mourners and Dead-house at Kalo ........ 80 32. Village Scene at Kalo, with Teacher and Christian Church .... 84 33. Kerepunu Women at the Market Place of Kalo ...... 86 34. Village Scene at Moapa, Aroma District ....... 88 35. Native Houses and Graves at Suau, Stacey Island ...... 92 36. Garihi Village, Bertha Lagoon, South Cape ....... 94 37. Boating Scene, Bertha Lagoon and Cloudy Mountains in the Distance . . 96 38. Magiri Village, Bertha Lagoon, South Cape ........ 100 39. Group and Native House, Mairy Pass, Mainland of New Guinea in the Distance ............ 102 40.

Young Cocoanut Trees on Stacey Island, Farm Peak in the Distance . . 104 41. Platform for Dead Bodies, South Cape, New Guinea ..... 108 42. Naria Village, South Cape, New Guinea ....... 110 43. On the Beach, Teste Island, Kissack's trading Canoe, Bell Rock and Cliffy Island in the Distance ......... 112 44. Paddles, Native Ornaments, and Implements from the Neighbourhood of Dinner Island and China Straits ........ 116 45. Village at Stade Island (Engineer Group) 118 46. The Voyage Homeward, on board H.M.S. "Dart" (on the Job) . . . 120 47. "The End," Sir Peter Scratchley's Catafalque, on board S.S. "Governor Blackall" '. . . 124 48. The Honourable John Douglas, C.M.G., Sir Peter Scratchley's Successor ; Captain T. A. Lake, Senior Captain of the A.S.N. Company's Fleet, and Commander of the S.S. " Governor Blackall " (on one Plate) . . .126 49.

Sir Peter Scratchley, K.C.M.G., and Mr. G. Seymour Fort, Private Secretary, (on one Plate) .......... 136 50. Fly River Explorers, Signor Luigi Maria D'Albertis, and Captain H. C. Everill (on one Plate)

Chapter I. Historical Account Of New Guinea

Geographical Position — First Discoveries — First Explorers — The Missionaries — Dutch Settlement — English Surveys of the Coasts — Attempts of Australian Settlement — Annexation by Queensland — Refusal of Imperial Sanction — Australian Colonists remonstrate — Proposal of a British Protectorate — Annexation by Great Britain — Dis satisfaction of the Colonists — Announcement of German Occupation — Arrival of Sir Peter Scratchley — His first Proceedings and Premature Death— Appointment of a Successor — The German Settlement. Geographical Positio?i. !EW GUINEA, the latest addition to the magnificent Colonial empire now owned by Great Britain, is the largest island on our globe, counting Australia as a sixth con ; tinent. It lies to the north of Australia, from which it is separated by a narrow strait named after Torres, a Spanish navigator, who, in 1606, sailed through it on his way from the New Hebrides to •the Philippine Islands.

First Discoverers. — It is doubtful whether anything relating to this large island was known to the European world before the time of Columbus. No mention of it is found in the works of any of the ancient geographers. The earliest reference to it that can be traced is given in the narrative of their voyages and adventures left by two Portuguese navigators, Francisco Serram and Antonio d'Abreu, who in 1511 saw and described a portion of the south-west coast. In the absence of any fuller information on the subject, the honour of dis covering New Guinea falls to these two adventurers. Fifteen years later another Portuguese navigator, Don Jorges Menenes, was voyaging from Malacca to the Moluccas, and encountering a storm, was driven out of his course to the eastward, and came upon the great island, where, findings a safe and convenient harbour, he remained for a month to refit his shattered vessel.

He named the island Papua, a Malayan expression for black or curly hair, which is a very marked feature of the native population. Under that name New Guinea is shown on a chart published in Venice in 1554. Another Portuguese mariner visited the island in 1528, and gave it the high sounding title of the Isla del Oro, or Island of Gold, from a belief that it abounded in the precious metals. But the honour of giving the island the name it will bear permanently falls to Inigo de Retez, a Spanish sailor, who in 1545 sailed 250 miles along the northern coasts, and, thinking that he saw in the appearance of the country a resemblance to the Guinea coast on the west of Africa, called it Nueva Guinea. The next we hear of the place is an account given by Torres of the southern portion and its inhabitants, whom he describes as being " dark in colour, naked except having some clothing round the middle, and armed with clubs and darts ornamented with tufts of feathers."

Schouten, a Dutch navigator, discovered some volcanoes in the island in 1616. Twenty-seven years later Abel Janez Tasman, the greatest of the Dutch navigators and the discoverer of Tasmania (which he named Van Dieman's Land) and of New Zealand, visited and minutely examined a portion of the west coast. On the New Year's Day of the year 1700, William Dampier, the prince of English maritime adventurers, voyaging in quest of new lands, sighted New Guinea, and never left it until he had sailed completely round it, although his vessel (named the "Roebuck") was both old and leaky. His account of the place and people is very racily written, and was probably read by De Foe before he wrote " Robinson Crusoe." " The natives," he says, "are very black; their short hair is dyed of various colours— red, white, and yellow; they have broad, round faces with HISTORICAL ACCOUNT OF NEW GUINEA. 3 great bottle-noses, yet agreeable enough, except that they disfigure themselves by painting and wearing great things through their noses, as big as a man's thumb and about four inches long.

They have also great holes in their ears, wherein they stuff such ornaments as in their noses." The illustrious navigator, Cook, rediscovered Torres Strait in 1772, and added much to the previous knowledge of the island and its inhabitants. In 1828 the Dutch took possession of the western portion and attempted to make a settlement there, but failed. In 1843 Captain Blackwood, in H.M.S. " Fly," discovered the river, which he named after his ship. Subsequently, Captain Owen Stanley, in the " Rattle snake," made a rough survey of a great portion of the coast, and in 1873 Captain Moresby, in the " Basilisk," completed our knowledge of the external form and dimensions of NeAV Guinea. . First Explorers. — Up till very recently the only information possessed by the civilised world respecting the island and its inhabitants amounted to little more than that the people were negroes, and that beautiful birds of paradise were to be found there.

Alfred Wallace, the distinguished naturalist, was the first European that gave the world a larger know ledge of the native population and the natural productions. After him came Dr. Mickluoho Maclay, in 1871. He lived with the natives for fifteen months, enduring the severest privations and risking his life in the cause of science But amongst the explorers of New Guinea pre eminence must be given to Signor D'Albertis, who, in 1872, in company with his fellow-countryman, Dr. Beccari, penetrated into the interior in many directions, and made himself intimately acquainted with the names and habits of the natives. At various subsequent times Signor D'Albertis continued his explorations and observations, the results of which he has given to the world in two handsome volumes beautifully illustrated.

This distinguished Italian is a born explorer. He is possessed with the true spirit of martyrdom in the cause of science. His pluck, perseverance and patience, seem only to grow with the difficulties he has to encounter, and the obstacles he has to overthrow. His personal privations and sufferings wring from him no complaints ; and he merely records them in his simple matter-of-fact manner as among the facts and incidents of the time, and as affording an insight into the ideas and ways of the natives in view of such circumstances. A German explorer, Dr. A. B. Meyer, made some important additions to our know ledge of the country by explorations, vigorously prosecuted in 1873. Dr. Beccari, alone, went on an expedition into the interior in 1875, and returned with a large and valuable collection of specimens of the flora and fauna of the island.

The Missionaries. — Those active pioneers of civilisation, the English missionaries, have not neglected New Guinea ; but their work amongst the natives has been seriously hindered by the unhealthiness of the country and climate. The Rev. S. McFarlane was appointed by the Directors of the London Missionary Society to establish a mission in the island in 1870. With him was associated the Rev. Mr. Murray; and subsequently the Rev. W. G. Lawes and the Rev. James Chalmers joined the mission. The labours of these gentlemen amongst the native population have been of a quite heroic kind ; and to them is mainly due the merit of taking possession of the country for the British peojile. At the hourly risk of their lives they have carried on their apostolic labours, facing a thousand dangers, overcoming a thousand difficulties, unwearied in their high purpose of civilising and Christianising this savage people.

They have established primary school training institu tions, for native teachers, schools for teaching the industrial arts, mission stations at many points along the coast, and churches with regu lar congregations and enrolled members. A real triumph of missionary achievement was witnessed at the mission station on Murray Island on the 14th May, 1885, when the 15-ton mission yacht, Mary, was launched from the yard of the Papuan industrial school, amid great feasting and rejoicing. The wood for the little vessel had been cut, and the buildino of it was executed by the hands of the pupils of the school under the supervision of the Rev. Mr. McFarlane. The yacht is intended for missionary work in and about the Fly River. Dutch Settlement.— -So far as is known, the Dutch, as already stated, were the first European nation to attempt settlement in New Guniea.

In 1828 Captain Steenboom, in the ship "Triton," landed on the island HISTORICAL ACCOUNT OF NEW GUINEA. 5 and took possession in the name of the Dutch Government of the territory extending from the 141st parallel of E. longitude westward to the sea. He built a fort at a place he called Triton Bay, on the N.W. coast, the scenery around which was very beautiful. But (as a Dutch gentle man at Macassar told Wallace) the officer left in charge of the settlement, finding the life there insufferably monotonous, killed the cattle and other live stock, and reported that they had perished through the un healthiness of the place, and that, besides, the natives were very fierce and intractable. The settlement at Triton Bay was on this account abandoned. Seven years later another Dutch commander surveyed what was then called the Dourga River, and found it to be a strait, ninety miles long, dividing Frederic Henry Island from the mainland.

The Dutch still hold nominal possession of the territory proclaimed by Captain Steenboom, but practically the acquisition is of no value to them. English Surveys of the Coast. — The southern shores of New Guinea have been mostly surveyed by British ships. Captain Blackwood, in H.M.S. " Fly," discovered in 1843 the river which he named after his ship. The next English commander that surveyed part of New Guinea was Captain Owen Stanley, who, in 1847, in H.M.S. "Rattlesnake," sketched a large extent of the coast and marked off a number of mountains, one of which, called after him, is over 13,000 feet high. In 1873 Captain Moresby, in the "Basilisk" discovered and named Port Moresby, and determined the form of the south-eastern extremity of the island. Hoisting the Queen's flag he took possession in her Majesty's name, by right of discovery, of Moresby Island and the surrounding archipelago.

Attempts at Australian Settlement. — The Australian colonists have not been wholly indifferent to the probable advantages to be gained from effecting a settlement in New Guinea. During the past twenty years several expeditions have been either planned or partially executed with that object, and the Imperial Government has been again and again asked to take action for the establishment of a British occupation of the territory. To these requests unfavourable answers were given, although it was known at the Colonial Office that so long back as 1793 the island had been formally annexed to Great Britain. In that year, two commanders in the service of the East India Company, William Bampton, Master of the " Hormuzeer," and Matthew B. Alt, Master of the " Chesterfield," were exploring in these waters ; and on the 10th July an armed party of forty-four men from the two vessels, under the com mand of Dell, chief mate of the " Hormuzeer," landed on Darnley Island in Torres Strait, and took possession of that island and the neighbouring island of New Guinea in the name of His Majesty King George the Third.