Souvenirs of Travel

Front matter

SOUVENIRS OF TRAVEL. BY MADAME OCTAVIA WALTON LE VERT. VOL L NEW YORK : S. H. GOETZEL AND COMPANY, No. 117 Fulton Street. Mobile; No. 33 Daufh'N Street. 1857. Entered, according tfr^jgEgBjj^qgggres, in the year 1857, by 8. H. GOETZEL & CO., in the Clerk's Office of the Diatrict Court for the Southern District of Alabama. Geo. E. Holt, Clerk. Sou. Diet Alabama. JOHN F. TROW, Book and Job Brinter, 319 B'dway, ]•*.. Y. TO MY MOTHER, THESE SOUVENIRS OF TRAVEL, g.rt gtbhaftb, BY HEE LOVING CHILD. The materials of these volumes were not originally designed for publication. They consist chiefly of the private letters, journals, and sketches of a distinguished American lady, during two visits to Europe. Her social position at home, and an extensive acquaintance with the highest circles abroad, gave her familiar access to scenes and personages and conditions of life not ordinarily within the reach of the foreign traveller.

The mystic veil which hides the penetralia of courtly and aristocratic society, was lifted for her eyes, and she was facilitated in her observations and experiences to a degree seldom awarded to an American before. With the readiest and keenest powers of percep tion, with a mind fully informed historically as to all the localities she visited, with a wonderfully retentive memory, retaining all the sands of gold that filtrated through its stream, and with the most genial and appreciative sympathies for whatever is best and most beautiful in literature, art, and social intercourse, she combined advantages calculated to VI publishers' preface. make her visits missions fruitful with facts and views of wide general interest and utility. Some of her letters to her friends, written during the hurry of travel, were yet so graphic and attractive that they were given to the press; and being reproduced all through the country, excited an almost universal desire for the publication of a full account of her travels.

Those friends who were admitted to her intimacies at home, be came aware what a rich mine of pleasing information, and interesting adventure, existed in the various memoranda she had made while in Europe. Their solicitations, and reiterated persuasions from literary friends in all parts of the Union, led to the preparation of this volume. The original journals and letters have been carefully revised by their author, additional memorials have been added, and many parts that in the original form necessarily partook largely of the personal and egotistic, have been omitted. This statement might suffice to introduce these Souve nirs of Travel to the world, but the Publishers deem it proper to add a few words as to the gifted and accomplished author. Madame Octavia Walton Le Vert is perhaps more widely known, in a social way, than any other American lady.

Chapter II

Leave Liverpool for London — Railway Comforts — London — The Street- Bweeper — Matinee Dansante — Bosio and Gardoni — Rachel — Haymarket Theatre — The Parks — "Westminster Abbey — Shakspeare's Monument — Tombs of Milton, Sheridan, and others — Monument to Andre — Tomba of the Queens — Palace of Westminster — Lord Campbell 7

Chapter III

British Museum — Horticultural Exposition — Mrs. Crosland— Grace Greenwood — Streets of London — Hyde Park — Statue of Achilles — English Horsewomen — Fanny Haworth — House of Peers — Italian Opera — Covent Garden — The Rutland Family — Lord and Lady John Manners — The Misses Pyne and Mr. Harrison 18

Chapter IV

Prince Czarstorisky — Lord and Lady Wharncliffe— The Star Family — The American Minister 26

Chapter V

Queen Victoria's Ball at Buckingham Palace — Entrance of the Queen — Appearance of the Queen— Prince Albert — King and Quet-n of Hanover — Count and Countess Walewski — The Presentation — The Duchess of Sutherland— Duke of Wellington— Her Majesty in the Dance— Sculpture and Picture Galleries — Etiquette on leaving the Palace — A Picture in Memory 31

Chapter VI

The Church of the Crusaders— Fourth of July— Tower of London— Queen Elizabeth's Armory — Dungeon of Sir Walter Raleigh — The Regalia of England— Traitor's Gate — Thames Tunnol— Cost of tho Tunnel— Madame CONTENTS. PAGE Celeste— Studios of Westmacott and Marochcttl— Spirit RappingB— Houso ' of CommonB— DTsraeli and Lord John Russell— The Women listen behind the Scenes— A true English Home— Dr. Bowring— The Dinners in London—English Racing Game 40

CHAPTER VIL

Picture- Gallery at Grosvenor House— Greenwich— Black Heath— Sir Henry Bishop— The poet Freiligrath— Moonlight and Midnight— Stafford House — Picture-Gal lery— The Duchess a Favorite with the Queen— Poverty and Plenty— Mr. Ingersoll— Rossiter— Floral Fete— Sudden Shower— St Paul's Cathedral— Noble Monuments— Princess's Theatre— Byron's Sardanapalus 51

CHAPTER VIIL

Lady Emmeline Wortley— Friendly Tributes 62

CHAPTER IX.

Windsor Castle— Cenotaph of Princess Charlotte— Grisi— The new Opera, Rigoletto— Gobelin Tapestry— Private Apartments of the Queen — Her Majesty's Kitchen and Stables— Gray's Elegy— Mary Howitt— Kossuth — Lady Morgan— Lady Clementina Villars 64

CHAPTER X.

Belvoir Castle— Entrance to the Castle — Reception-Room — The Drawing- Rooms, Library, and Bail-Room — Picture-Galleries — Apartments of tho Queen — Woodstock — Apartments ofthe Duchess of Rutland — Mausoleum ofthe Duchess — Letters from Home . 72 CHAPTEE XL Distinguished Writers — Foreign Ministers and other Celebrities — Egyptian Hall— Farewell to London 78 CHAPTEE XIL Paris — Steamer Incident — Arrival at Paris — Petra Camera — Railway to Versailles—Tale ofthe Ravine — The Palace— Basins of Neptune and Apollo — The Great Waters play — Interior of the Palace— Paintings and Statuary — Marie Antoinette — Portrait of Washington — Statue of Jean d'Arc — Return to Paris — Boulevards— Church of La Madeleine— Group by Marochetti 82

CHAPTER XIII.

Opera Comique — Gardens of the Tuileries — Place de la Concorde — Champs Elysees— Arc de Triomphe de l'Etoile — Chapel of St. Ferdinand — Death of Duke of Orleans — Exhilarating Air osParis— The Louvre— The Conception by Murillo — Grand Gallery — Daughter of Baron Gros — Interesting Relics — Imperial Museum — Improvements in Paris— Palais Royal — Galleries roofed with Glass 94

CHAPTER XIV.

Cathedrale de Notre Dame — Place of Coronation — Hotel Dieu— The fearful Morgue — Hall aux Vins — Menagerie — Botanical Garden; — Winter Garden CONTENTS, XIII PAGE — Tomb of Abelard and Heloise— Nameless Monument— Child's Grave- Voices from the Past— Museum of Natural Antiquities — Stockbrokers' and Merchants' Exchange

CHAPTER XV.

Palace of the Luxembourg — Historical Memories — Hotel de Ville — Flower Market — Opera — Gallery of Louis Philippe — Hotel des Invalides — Tomb of Napoleon — Place de la Bastile — St. Cloud— Champs Elysees— Shadows in the Sunlight 114

CHAPTER XVI.

Leave Paris — Brussels — Walk about the City— Importunate Beggars and Guides— Field of Waterloo — Church of St. Gudule— Manufactory of Lace — Allee Verte— Tomb of Malibr an— Birthplace of Charlemagne — Shrine 01 the Magi — Cologne Water of Jean Farina 123

CHAPTER XVII.

The Rhine — Legend of the Island Convent — Ehrenbrietstien — Picturesque Ruins — Castle of Stolzenfels— Cat and Mouse Castles— Old Ruin of Rhienfels — Seven Petrified Maidens— Altar of Bacchus— The Rhine Valley- Town of Bingen — " Bingen on the Rhine " — Legend of the Fair Gisela— Birthplace of Guttemberg— Adieu to the Rhine 130

CHAPTER XVIII.

Castle of Heidelberg— Female Peasantry— Baden Baden— Gaming Tables- Russian Princess— The Young and Fair among the Gamesters— Gaming- Table Horrors — The Trinkhalle— Mummy Gamester— Gaming a Passion with the Germans— Strasbourg— Astronomical Clock— Basle, Switzerland — View from Mount Chinchona— Old Man of the Tower— Battle-Field of St. Jacob — Seatsfield — Home Letters 141

CHAPTER XIX.

Paris— The Italian Singer— Grand Review— The Empress— The Emperor- Preparations for the FSte of Napoleon— Festivities— Illuminations— Imperial Crown — The little Illuminator — Fireworks — Apotheosis of Napoleon — Fontainebleau — Forest— Palace— Hermitage of Franchard— Reminiscences of Napoleon 154

CHAPTER XX.

Dijon— Impatient and Pompous Guard— Jura Mountains— The Ascent— View from the Summit— Mont Blanc— Lake Leman 165

CHAPTER XXI.

Monument of Rousseau— Calvin— John Knox— Burial-place of Calvin— Iron Saucepan— Model of Mont Blanc— The Junction— Ferney— Sad Accident— The Blue Rhone— Scenes upon the Lake— Cathedral— Alpine Storm— Hur- CONTENTS. PAGE ried Departure— Sea-Sickness on Lake Leman— Roussoau's Opinion of Ve vay— Clarenz— Montreux— Ascent and Descent of the Towers— Release of Bonnivard — His Dungeon — View from the Apertures — Footprints— The Skeptical Englishman — Courteous People — View from Clarenz — Drive along the Slopes of Lake Leman— Tradition of the Bridge of St. Maurice —The Cretins— The Goitres— Brieg 1TX

CHAPTER XXII.

Road across the Simplon Mountain — Ascent— View from the first Post-House — Glaciers— Glacier Galleries— View from the Precipice — Culminating Point of the Road— Dogs of Great St. Bernard— Houses of Refuge— A Friend on the Summit of the Simplon — Gorge of Gondo — Frascinnone Waterfall— Grand Melodies— Inn of Isella— Traces of the Storm of 1339 186

CHAPTER XXIII.

Val d'Ossolo — Beggary a Profession— A last Look— Lazzaroni— Hotel de Ville — Distance lends Enchantment — Beggars — Handless and Footless Beggar- Boy — The Women and Horses — Babies done up in Bales — Maggiore — View from the Shore— The old Temple— Isola Bella— Palace of the Count Borromeo— Grottoes— Terrace— Isola Madre— Gardens— The Laurel Tree— Lavono — Drive to Como— Lake of Como — Views Afloat — Communicative Boatmen — Taglioni and her Daughters— Pasta's Villa — Bed-chamber — The Grounds and Gardens— Pasta's Bower— Plini ana — Villa Mombcllo . 194

CHAPTER XXIV.

Como — Milan— Origin of the word "Milliner"— People of Milan— Cathedral of Milan — Exterior — Interior — Tomb of San Carlo Borromeo — " Last Supper" by Leonardo da Vinci — La Brera — Paintings and Sculpture — Castel Barco — Imperial Palace — Interior of La Scala — The Dancers — Appropriate Bas Relief— The Corso — Pleasant Drive— View from the Cathedral— High Mass — Leave Milan — Annoying Postillion — Italy chafes in her Bondage- Pischiera— Austrian Soldiers 207

CHAPTER XXV.

Verona— Tomb of Juliet— Roman Amphitheatre — San Zenone— Paul "Veronese —Vicenza — Padua the Powerful — Cafo Pedrocchi— Paduan Celebrities — Church of San Antonio— The Railway— Beautiful Vineyards— Place of tho Siege— Scene at the Custom House— The name "America" a spell — Gondolas—Canal Streets— Palaces — Palatial Hotel— Serenade .... 218

CHAPTER XXVI.

Venice — Cathedral of San Marco — Interior Decorations — Grand Altar— Tower of the Clock— Piazza di San Marco — Sacred Pigeons— Ducal Palace Statues—Pictures^ — Hall of the Great Council — Tintoretto— Paintings Rape of Eurupa- Museum— Chamber of the Council of Ten — Bridge of Sighs— CONTENTS. XV PAGE Academla— Titian— Goethe's Theory— Opera of " Attila the Hun "—Palace of Foscari — Byron's Tragedy — Byron's Room at Mocenigo Palace — Bridge of the Rialto — Sketch of the Duke de Barri— Manfrini Palace— Portraits — Palazzo Trevisano — Bianca— Flight of Bianca and Pietro — Nuptials of Bi anca and Francisco — Death of Bianca by poison — Motley Group — Perfect Locomotion — Our Gondola and our Gondolier — Music on the Lagunes — Augustino — The one Ornament of the Gondola— The City reflected — Night View of Piazza San Marco — The Venetians— Silence of the Streets — Foun dation and Early Days of Venice — Luminous Names in Venetian History 229

CHAPTER XXVIL

Churches of Venice — Church of Santissimo Redentorc — Paul Veronese sleeps among the Works of his Genius — Brides of Venice — Venice in her Prime — Courtesy of the Priests — Church of Santa Maria dei Frari — Monuments of Titian and Canova; of the Doges Foscari and Nicolo Tron; of the Doge Pesaro — Houses of Distinguished Men —Armenian Convent — Mad-House — Arsenal — Blind Dandolo — Wedding the Adriatic — Dante's Genius — Monument of Angelo Emo — Last Evening in Venice — Voyage around the City 249

CHAPTER XXVIII.

Departure from Venice — Colt's Revolver— Scenes by the "Way — Rocco d'Anfo — Isco— Lovere — Different Dialects — Malatia — Bergamo — Milan — Binasco ■ — Rice Plantations — Malaria — Certosa of Pavia — University of Pavia — Valleys of Vines— Field of Marengo — Power of Napoleon's "Will— Sardinian Officers— Alessandria — The Apennines — First View of the Mediterranean gea — Enter Genoa — Prospect from the Hotel Tower — Breakfast — Apples of Love— Sunset "Walk— Narrow Streets— Promenade of Genoa— Graceful Head-dress— Lost in the Narrow Streets— Sailor Guide — Church ofthe Annunciation — Denied admittance to the Chapel of St. John the Baptist— Palaces— Terraces — Beggar of the "Wooden Bowl — Ascension Chairs— Palazzo Doria — Andrea Doria — Monument of Columbus — Port of Genoa — Street of the Jewellers— Departure from Genoa— Sunset at Sea . . . . 269 CHAPTEE XXIX.

Marseilles— Shores of the Mediterranean— Avignon— The Old Friar— Sister of Charity— The Ehone— Miserable Cabin of the Steamer— Lyons— " Lady of Lyons"— Views on the Saone— Paris— Eetnrn to England— Voyage Home OT

CHAPTER XXX.

Second Tour— Departure from New Orleans— Arrival at Havana— Hotel Cubano— Drive on the Squares— The Volantes— A Cuban Custom— Fine Atmosphere—Tropical Storm- Streets— Houses— Deliciously Lazy Women —Cuban Men— A Drive— The Palm Tree— Delightful Air of the Tropics- Sidney Smith— Plaza de Armas— Walk by Moonlight— Sefior Navarro— Tacon Theatre— Senoritas in the Boxes— La Fiorentini— Dominica's— A CONTENTS. PAGB "Norther "—Visit from the Consul— Evening at the Palace— Gen. Concha —The "Norther" at work with the Waves— The British Fleet— Bishop's Garden— Bamboo Cane— Cucuyos— The Corso— Dr. Le Riverend— Garden — Grottoes and Arbors 287

CHAPTER XXXI.

City of Havana— The Prison— The Blood-Stained Beach— Cathedral containing the Ashes of Columbus— Evening Party of the British Consul— Jolly Clergymen — A Sweet Child of Song— Dr. Scherzer's Reminiscences of Hayti— Drive .in a Volante — The Guagiros— Service on the Flag-ship of the Admiral — Row around the Harbor 801 CHAPTEE XXXII. The Bull-Fight — Euy Gomez, the MatadoT — Eevolting Spectacle — A happy People— The Opera — Arrival of the " Fernando el Cat61ico " — Spanish Soldiers— Vomito 808 CHAPTEE XXXIII. The Palace Ball— Concert in the Open Air— Fish Market 813

CHAPTER XXXIV.

Moro Castle— Splendid Ball at the House of the British Consul — Invalids — A Fair Child of the North — Review of the Troops— Gala Night at the Tacon — Adieus 815

CHAPTER XXXV.

Departure from Havana— The Steamer and the Passengers— The Cuban Girl, Dolores— Sense of Security — Courtesy of the Officers— Evenings in the Saloon — Sunrise on the Atlantic — Land — Meetings and Greetings — Poor Dolores !— Leave the Steamer with Regret — Arrival at Cadiz — Aspect of the City— Brief Historical Sketch — Ramparts — The Gaditanas— The Dark-eyed Maid of Cadiz — Last Painting of Murillo — Theatre — Love-Dance — Graceful Carriage of the Gaditanas — Points of interest about Cadiz — View from the Steamer— Atalayas — The Convent — Tho Pines — " Fidelity " — Orange and Olive Groves — Las Delicias — Pleasant Welcome from the Peop.e ""

CHAPTER XXXVI.

Sevilla — The Great Altar— Murillo's Tribute— Treasures of the Custodia Columbus' Letters — Ascent of the Tower — Giralda — View from the Tower —The Acazar— Peter the Cruel— Blanche of Castile— Gardens— Moorish Temples — Grottoes — Imposing Orange Tree — House of Pontius Pilate Pictures for the Paris Exposition— Houses of Se villa— Birthplace of Murillo —His Pictures of the Virgin— House and Tablet of Murillo— The Gipsies- Beautiful Gipsy Girl — The Tobacco Workers— Drives around Sevillii— Quemadero — Beggars — Negro without Hands— Departure from Sevilla.

Chapter I

It was just twelve o'clock, Juno 11th, 1853, when the great gun of the Atlantic sounded forth its farewell to America, The wharves and shipping around were thronged with a dense mass of human beings, whose loud cheers answered the cannon's roar. Many were the kind faces beaming with friendship upon us as the noble ship gracefully passed from her moorings. There was no sadness in their glances, and my own heart bounded with joy, as the shores of the beauti ful bay melted into distance. The dream of my life had been to visit Europe, and now the great white wings of the Atlantic, aided by the Magician of the Nineteenth Century, mighty steam, was about to real ize my brightest hopes. My emotions were full of radiant delight, as bright and sparkling as the myriad diamond drops which fell in showers from the swift-moving wheels of the glorious steamer.

There were more than two hundred passengers, and never was assembled a more merry, genial, agreeable set of persons. Vol. I — All portions of the world seemed represented, (save China.) There were Frenchmen, Germans, Englishmen, Spaniards, and Norwegians — Chilians from the silver mines — Peruvians from near the equator — Cubans from the " Gem of the An tilles "— Californian, hastening to the Old World, to pur chase with their gold recompense for many a privation ; also an Australian, who had been among the first to dig the precious metal in that far-away land. There were blooming English and lovely American women ; statesmen, judges, generals, and orators, poets, artists, and musicians. A spirit of kindness and cordiality encircled us, and each one appeared earnest for the other's happiness.

For two days, life was an enchantment ; but upon the third day I was seized by that demon of the ocean, (in com mon parlance, sea-sickness,) and so tightly did he grasp me. that for several days I lay still and death-like. However, the " indomitable will " of my nature would be no longer controlled, and then came on a fierce struggle between us. I would not yield, though my -anguish was inexpressible. Each day I ascended the deck, in spite of the icy coldness of the wind, which betokened our near approach to the icebergs. My good friends, after bringing me on deck, would wrap me up, like an Egyptian mummy, in buffalo robes, California blankets, and Mexican ponchos. In truth, none of the mum mies of old had more valuable enwrapments. Sometimes we enjoyed the luxury of a great buffalo robe, brought from Chicago by a gentleman en route for England, and intended as a present to Queen Victoria.

Very gallantly he permitted the " sovereign " of his own country to make it a resting place. To cheer the long hours, I often told them Indian legends, and one of the " Alabama " (signifying " here we rest " ) pleased the group so much, that whenever I came on deck they would seize the magnificent robe, and casting it CONCERT. down would cry out, " Come, dear madam, here is your Alabama." Sweet are the memories of those pleasant days, when kindness and gentle words even cheated sea-sickness of half its horrors. The captain, with his broad, stalwart form, and benevolent smile, was often near to cheer us with the hope of a speedy arrival. The weather, although cold was delightful; the winds fair as the first dream of love. But about mid-ocean we encountered a terrific swell from the north. There had doubtless been a great storm in the icy regions, and the stubborn heart of the mighty deep was still agitated.

Would to heaven it had sung to quietude ere we came along, for it rendered me intolerably ill, and the demon and I battled again for many a day. Braham, the excellent English singer, and Dodworth, tho admirable cornet a piston player, gave us a concert one night. for the benefit of the Sailors' Home on Staten Island. After some delightful music, the Star Spangled Banner was sung, in which all the audience joined, making a most charming finale to the entertainment. On the ninth day, as I lay, miserably ill, on the deck, the officer cried out, " Land ! land ! " Oh, joyful sound ! giving life and hope. None of Sontag's sweetest tones could equal the exquisite thrill that one word produced upon me. The mountains of Ireland were soon visible, and the " Fast ness Rook " in the ocean. This contains a light-house, which is tenanted by one man.

It is three miles from the main land, and is a lonely spot. The next day we were in sight of Wales, and soon of Holyhead — a high, bold, desolate-looking rock, with a white light-house upon it. The shore was barren and cheerless, without a single tree, until we entered the Mersey ; then the shores were green and lovely, and I felt we were indeed in " merrie England " As we approached Liverpool, a thick mist gathered around us, veiling the landscape. Within the steamer all was confusion and preparation for landing. On all sides were the inquiries — " Can I take my baggage ? " " Are the officers very strict in their search ? " It was quite dark when we descended the ladder of the Atlantic, and entered the little steam-tug — a frightful, black, gopher-looking vessel. There we stood, until 215 passengers came down the narrow way.

We scarcely had standing room, and even I confessed it was amazingly unpleasant. But I had resolved not to permit any of the small ills of lifo to annoy me ; hence I only laughed at them, and sprang merrily ashore. At last I was in England ! Even the most unenthusias tic must feel a wild bounding of the heart when they first touch the shores of Mother-Land. As for me, joy, radiant joy, filled my soul, and I could have thrown myself on my knees and kissed the earth — the home of my ancestors — the glorious land which holds forth its hands in love and sympa thy to its children, far over the vast Atlantic. The illuminated clock of one of the churches marked the hour of eleven, as we drove to the Adelphi, first stopping at. the Custom-House, where the trunks were opened and closed, (at least ours were.)

A southern planter was not so lucky. He had " seven beautiful plugs " of tobacco taken from him, as he refused to pay seven dollars duty upon them. At the hotel the waiter called out, " Fine rooms ! excellent rooms I " When I entered them I thought " I will take mine ease at mine inn ; " but alas for this hope of com fort ! Never did we see more miserable, dingy, dark rooms. " English comfort "—the boast of the Anglo-Saxons over the whole world — seemed to me but a fiction, if this were an DRIVE THROUGH THE CITY. earnest of it. Visions of the palace-like St. Nicholas came to us, as we looked upon the quaint, old, queer furniture — the narrow beds and time-worn carpets. However, we were very weary, and soon sought forgetfulness in sleep ; and in the " dream-land " I was soon with those dear ones in my home by the Mexican Gulf.

Liverpool, June 22d. — " I am at last in England ! " was my first exclamation, as I sprang from my narrow bed, and drew aside the curtain. It was a bright morning, and already the street was thronged with people. I hurriedly dressed, that I might go out and breathe freely the English air, though somewhat tainted by coal-smoke. But the enthu siasm of the last night was yet with me, and delightful memories filled my mind, of this land so famed in " song and story." Liverpool is a bustling, busy city, of near 400,000 inhabitants. It covers a large space of ground, and its streets are as wandering and winding as those of Boston. During our drive, we visited many of the public buildings, which are really splendid. The St. George's Hall is a magnificent edifice ; likewise the Exchange, Custom- House, and Sailors' Home.

We saw the statue of Lord Nelson, and that of Huskisson. But the miracles of Liverpool are the docks. These are of wondrous extent — at least five or six miles along the shores of the Mersey. The tide rises from twelve to thirty feet ; hence ships are compelled to be placed in tho docks, or else to lie far out in the " offing." There appeared to be vessels from all the nations of the earth, indicated by their flags, and destined to all ports, from the sailing-boards hung out upon them. The hum of commerce, and the eager rushing to and fro of hundreds of laborers, gave token that Liverpool is indeed the great emporium of the English world. The Princess Park is filled with trees and flowering shrubs. There were many beautiful azalias, and the golden laburnum, the California of flowers, and the broom, and snowball.

Around Liverpool are numerous elegant country seats. The rich people fly the misery and toil and struggle of the city life, fer the bright green fields of the country. At every turn we met policemen, those polite " guardians of the law." We could but think, how' wicked the people must be to require such a surveillance by night and day. Save in the Havanas, I had never seen a watchfulness like this. There the thickset Spanish soldier is encountered in every street. Our delightful evening ended by a long drive amid the environs of Liverpool.

CHAPTER 11.

At ten o'clock we left Liverpool, and, after passing through a dark tunnel, emerged into a beautiful country. It was like a grand mosaic, or like one of those exquisite quilts of my riad pieces, made by the dear hands of my aged grand mother. Each field was encircled by a well-cut hedge, and trees planted on the hill-tops. The narrow winding roads were also shaded by them, in rows on either side, forming a sweet, quiet walk. The country was entirely culti vated, even to the slip of ground along the railway. The fields were brightly green, intermingled with white, red, and yellow flowers. The ground, in a state of preparation for planting, seems to have been pulverized by some machine ; it looks as smooth as brown ochre. The railway does not pass through the great towns, but only near them.

At the different stations are refreshment houses, but only three minutes allowed for stopping. The day was delightful. The sky of pale blue, with a few fleecy clouds to shade us from the sun. The air was pure, fresh, and life-giving. The calm, quiet beauty of the scenery realized precisely the descriptions of rural England, so sweetly and truthfully rjortrayed by Chaucer, by Spenser, and by Wordsworth. We looked upon the thatched cottage, half covered with rose-vines in full blossom,— the fields of new-cut hay, where the women and children were tossing it into great high wheeled carts, — the far-off castle with turrets, — the little lakes, where the cows calmly stood in the placid waters, — the myriad sheep upon the hills, — the stalwart peasants at their daily toil ; and they seemed pictures we had looked upon in some other period of existence, all were so familiar to our eyes.

The railway carriages are entirely comfortable, each con taining six persons. Then the delightful security which is felt during the journey. Within sight of each other, stand men with flags, which are unfurled to signify danger or safety. If it be the red, some obstacle exists ; if the white, nought impedes the onward progress. From Liverpool to London, it was like a swift-unfolding panorama, constantly revealing new beauties to the eye. Perfectly was I repaid for all the discomforts of the voyage by this day of new and joyous existence. By the increased speed we found we were approaching London, and soon reached the station. There was no bustle or confusion. A cab was quietly called, and we drove into mighty London. Words cannot even give a shadow of the emotions which thrilled me as I passed, along.

All the romances, all the histories I had ever read, crowded upon my memory, and I felt like one wandering in dreams conjured up by wild imagination. After driving to several hotels, we came to Fenton'g, St. James's street, one of the most fashionable hotels of London. We have a charming parlor on the street, with a balcony, where I am now seated, writing, or, rather, I am striving to write, for tbe animated scene calls away my attention every moment. THE STREET-SWEEPER. 9 It is just seven o'clock. The sun is high in the heavens. Multitudes of carriages are dashing by, with servants in gorgeous liveries, with knee-breeches, velvet coats, and pow dered wigs. The ladies, en grande toilette, are reclining in their elegant equipages, which are all of the barouche form, thus displaying the superb dresses.

On the front seat is often a dainty little lap-dog, quietly gazing out upon the two liveried footmen, who stand behind the carriages, holding on to the long tassels. To-day the Queen held her drawing-room ; hence the unusual display of splendor in the costumes of the fair occupants of these carriages. In front of me, at the crossing of the street, stands an old woman, with snow-white hair ; in her hands she has an ancient-looking broom, with which she " sweeps the crossing," and puts forth her hand for charity. No one gives her any — yes ! one person has dropped a copper in her hand. There seems a, spell about some objects ; for, though my eyes are enchanted by the gay and gorgeous scene, they irresisti bly wander back to the old woman. It is another revelation of London life. Wealth and luxury dash proudly by, while poverty holds out its hands for the charity which does not come.